JP2006207078A - Weft stretchable lining fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a stretchable lining fabric having large elongation in the weft direction and excellent comfortableness to wear. <P>SOLUTION: The weft stretchable lining fabric is obtained by using polyester filaments or cellulosic filaments as a warp yarn and substantially non-twist polyester filaments or cellulose filaments as a weft yarn, providing 2,000-15,000 twist multiplier (K) and twisting the warp yarn. Thereby, mutual single filaments used in the warp yarn are converged to change the cross-sectional shape of the warp yarn into a circular form. Thereby, bending hardness of the weft yarn to the warp yarn is raised. As a result, the crimp ratio of the weft yarn of a woven fabric is readily imparted. A grey fabric in which the weft yarn is readily crimped is subjected to a width reduction treatment in a stage before or after scouring to thereby improve the weft elongation of the lining fabric of the final product. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a stretch lining having high elongation in the weft direction.

  In recent years, in the clothing field, there has been an increase in the desire for comfortable wearing, and many stretched products have been seen. In particular, stretches of fabrics used as outer fabrics have progressed, and in addition to these, stretches have been required for auxiliary materials such as lining and interlining. For this reason, products that are stretched by various methods are emerging on the lining. For example, a method of using a covering yarn in which a spandex yarn, in which the yarn itself extends like rubber, is used as a core yarn and a multifilament is wound around the core yarn is generally known. The lining obtained by this method does not spread as much as the lining because it easily gives a sense of depth and wiping, and the slippage also deteriorates. Other means include those utilizing the bulkiness and crimping properties of false twisted yarns, those using additional twisted yarns of false twisted yarns, and untwisting force of twisted yarns. The lining obtained by these methods also exhibited a feeling of wiping, rough feeling, graininess, etc., and the quality of the lining was low.

On the other hand, Patent Document 1 discloses a lining having a stretch of 5 to 12% in the weft direction without impairing the quality. The weft stretch rate of the lining disclosed in this document is mainly 7-8%. For the dress material at the time when this patent was filed, the average stretch rate was around 10%, so it is presumed that the stretch rate of the above-mentioned lining was sufficient. However, the recent stretch of the outer material has increased by about 15% to 20%, and it is becoming a reality that the above-mentioned lining cannot sufficiently cope with the growth of the outer material. Therefore, in order to overcome these problems, it is essential to raise the stretch rate of the lining itself. As described above, in reality, there is no lining that can sufficiently satisfy good slipperiness and stretchability and that can cope with the recent stretch of the outer material.
International Publication No. WO99 / 31309 Specification

  An object of the present invention is to provide a lining excellent in wearing comfort having stretchability having a large elongation in the weft direction without impairing slipperiness. In other words, in addition to slipperiness and stretch performance, by controlling the crimp index, which is a measure of the surface structure of the lining, it is possible to provide a lining that is excellent in detachability and seam slipperiness at the time of wearing, and motion followability. If possible. A further object of the present invention is to provide a polyester-based long fiber 100% lining, a polyester-based long fiber and cellulosic continuous fiber lining, and a cellulose-based long fiber 100% lining having the above functions. .

In order to solve the above problems, the present inventors have studied in detail how to increase the crimp rate of the weft yarn that directly reflects the weft elongation rate, and as a result, the warp yarn is efficiently twisted by applying an appropriate twist. It becomes possible to give the weft crimp rate, and the high crimp rate of the applied raw machine becomes a precursor, and the weft crimp rate that leads to the stretch rate in the subsequent process (scouring, heat treatment, set) easily increases The present invention has been found. The crimp rate referred to here is the length between the marks at the time when a weigh of 1/10 of the fineness is applied to the wefts taken out from the fabric after marking 20cm in the weft direction of the fabric of the raw machine or the final finished product. This is a value calculated from (L) by the following equation.
Crimp rate (%) = {(L-20) / 20} × 100 (3)

That is, in the present invention, a polyester-based long fiber or cellulose-based long fiber having a twist coefficient (K) defined by the following formula (4) of 2000 to 15000 is used as a warp, and a substantially untwisted polyester-based long fiber or cellulose. In a woven fabric that uses the base yarn of the long fiber as the weft, the weft elongation of the woven fabric is 8-20%, the dynamic friction coefficient of the woven fabric surface is 0.20-0.40, defined by the following formula (5) The crimp index (C) is 0.007 to 0.015, and is composed of a weft stretch lining.
K = (0.9 × D) ^0.5 × T (4)
C = crimp rate of product weft / {M × (D) ^0.5 } (5)
In the formula, D means warp fineness (dtex), T means the number of twists (t / m), and M means warp density (lines / inch).
Further, the weft elongation rate and the dynamic friction coefficient mean values measured by a KES (manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.) method described later.

  Since the lining fabric of the present invention has an appropriate stretch property, the compressibility at the time of wearing is low and the motion following property is also excellent. In addition, slipping hardly occurs and the shape retention is excellent. Moreover, since the slipperiness is also good, it is not only easy to attach and detach, but also excellent in terms of ease of movement.

The present invention will be specifically described below.
The first feature of the present invention is that a polyester-based long fiber or cellulose-based long fiber having a twist coefficient (K) of 2000 to 15000 is used as a warp, and a substantially untwisted polyester-based long fiber or cellulose-based long fiber. The original yarn is used for the weft.
In the case of using the weft raw yarn, the weft elongation rate substantially corresponds to the crimp rate of the weft yarn, so it is important how to efficiently crimp the weft yarn. Based on various studies, the present inventors have found that the weft yarn crimp rate in the raw machine stage is manifested in the post-process (scouring process, heat treatment process), whether it is a polyester-based long fiber or a cellulose-based long fiber. It was found to correlate with the crimp rate. That is, the greater the raw machine crimp rate, the greater the weft stretch rate of the final product.

Therefore, if the raw machine crimp rate of the weft can be increased by some means, the weft stretch rate can be improved. As a result of various investigations of the means, the inventors of the present application have improved the weft crimp rate of the raw fabric by giving twist to the warp, which leads to the improvement of the weft crimp rate of the woven fabric of the final product. It has been found that this is reflected, and the present invention has been achieved.
In the case of a woven fabric in which both the conventional warp and the weft are made of a long fiber, the cross-sectional shape of the warp and the weft in the fabric is weak because the binding force between the dozens of single yarns constituting the long fiber is weak. The weft is pressed against the warp and flattened together. In this case, the crimp rate of the weft of the living machine becomes extremely low, and a high stretch cannot be achieved no matter how the subsequent process is devised.

  The technical points that the weft stretch rate improved even with the use of the original yarn in the present invention compared to the prior art are as follows: (1) By twisting the warp yarns, the single filaments of long fibers used for the warp yarns are converged, and the cross-sectional shape of the warp yarns is circular. This makes it easier to form crimps of weft yarns, and (2) to increase the bending hardness of the weft yarns by contrasting the warp yarns, making it easier to crimp the softer weft yarns. That is, by twisting the warp, the cross-sectional shape of the warp is rounded, the bending hardness is increased, and the weft at the raw machine stage is more easily crimped, creating the weft stretch lining of the present invention. It has become possible. Twisting of warp yarn and use of weft yarn are essential requirements. As will be described later, it is preferable to use a soft one of the weft yarns.

  An electron micrograph of the cross section of the fabric of Comparative Example 2 described later is shown in FIG. 1, and an electron micrograph of the cross section of the fabric of Example 7 is shown in FIG. These photographs are the scouring width before dyeing and dyeing before drying, cut so that the warp cross section appears, metallized and observed with an electron microscope (this form is almost close to the form of the final finished product, The shape in the raw machine state before scouring and finishing is similar to these), and shows the cross-sectional shape of the warp and the crimped form of the weft. Comparing the cross-sectional shapes of the warps, Example 7 using a twisted yarn having a twisting coefficient (K) = 7100, which will be described later, and Comparative Example 2 using a yarn having a twisting coefficient (K) = 1050 and substantially non-twisted. It can be seen that the shape of the cross section of the warp is different and the crimp form of the weft is significantly different.

Since the number of warp twists varies depending on the fineness of the weft used, etc., in the present invention, it is defined by the twist coefficient (K) shown by the following formula (6).
Twist factor (K) = (0.9 × D) ^0.5 × T (6)
In the formula, D means warp fineness (dtex), and T means the number of twists (t / m).
In the present invention, a yarn having a twist coefficient (K) in the range of 2000 to 15000 is used as the warp. When the twisting coefficient is 2000 or less, crimping is easier to form than using untwisting, but the shape of the warp cross section becomes slightly flat, so that a sufficient stretch lining cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when the twisting coefficient is 15000 or more, untwisting is easy, and it becomes easy to generate wrinkles and a feeling of wiping, and the apparent fineness is lowered, so that the sense of sheer is increased and the feeling of tension is not preferable.

  The polyester-based long fibers used in the warp of the present invention are composed of a polyester polymer having fiber-forming properties such as a homopolymer such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and a polyester copolymer of these polymers. Fiber is used. A fiber made of polyethylene terephthalate is preferable in terms of slipperiness and the like. There may be no problem even if additives such as antistatic agents, flame retardants, heat-resistant agents, light-proofing agents, and titanium oxide are added to the fibers. The cross-sectional shape of the fiber is not particularly limited, and may be a polygonal shape such as a triangular shape, an L shape, a Y shape, or a T shape in addition to a round shape, a multileaf shape, a hollow shape, a flat shape, or an indeterminate shape. The type is arbitrary.

Representative examples of cellulose-based long fibers used for warp include copper ammonia rayon, viscose rayon, polynosic rayon, organic solvent (N methylmorpholine N oxide) spun fiber, acetate fiber, and the like.
The fineness of the polyester-based long fibers and cellulose-based long fibers used for the warp is preferably 33 to 133 dtex, more preferably 56 to 110 dtex, and the single yarn fineness is not particularly limited but is preferably 0. .5 to 10 dtex, more preferably 0.5 to 5 dtex.
On the other hand, examples of the fiber that can be used for the weft of the present invention include untwisted polyester-based long fibers or cellulose-based long fibers that are not substantially false twisted or twisted. Although these raw yarns are substantially untwisted, interlacing or light twisting (about 10 to 200 t / m) may be applied to converge the filament.

The polyester-based long fibers used in the wefts of the present invention are composed of polyester polymers having fiber-forming properties such as homopolymers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and polyester copolymers of these polymers. Fiber is used. A fiber made of polyethylene terephthalate is preferable in terms of slipperiness and the like. There may be no problem even if additives such as antistatic agents, flame retardants, heat-resistant agents, light-proofing agents, and titanium oxide are added to the fibers.
Examples of the cellulose-based long fibers used for the weft include copper ammonia rayon, viscose rayon, polynosic rayon, organic solvent (N methylmorpholine N oxide) spun fiber, acetate fiber, and the like.

The fineness of polyester-based long fibers and cellulose-based long fibers used for wefts is preferably 33 to 133 dtex, more preferably 56 to 110 dtex, and the single yarn fineness is not particularly limited, but preferably 0. .5 to 10 dtex, more preferably 0.5 to 5 dtex.
The cross-sectional shape of the fiber is not particularly limited, but it is desirable to use a soft yarn that is flexible in order to develop the weft elongation efficiently. In the case of a round cross-sectional shape, it is preferable that the single yarn fineness is small, that is, the single yarn diameter is small, and it is particularly preferable to use a raw yarn having a high flatness. Although the flat shape is not particularly limited, the raw yarn having a cross-sectional structure that is substantially flat and flexible in a specific direction, such as W-type, I-type, boomerang type, corrugated type, skewer type, etc. preferable.

The combination of warp and weft materials consists of 100% polyester long fiber lining, 100% cellulosic long fiber lining, and 2 types of polyester / fiber long interwoven lining. There is no limit.
The second feature of the present invention is that the weft elongation of the fabric is 8 to 20%, the dynamic friction coefficient of the fabric surface is 0.20 to 0.40, and the crimp index (C) is 0.007 to 0.015. It is in.

  In order to suppress the slipping of the seams and the feeling of pressure at the time of wearing, which is the object of the present invention, and to obtain a lining having excellent wearing comfort, the elongation in the weft direction of the lining and the dynamic friction coefficient of the lining surface are within the above specified range. Must be a designed fabric. That is, the weft elongation of the backing of the present invention is preferably 8 to 20%, more preferably 10 to 20%, and particularly preferably 12 to 20%. The weft elongation of the lining of the present invention can be controlled and adjusted by the twist coefficient (warp fineness, number of twists), fabric density, and processing conditions (width filling rate).

  The stretch required for the lining is "Kise (cutting the lining larger than the size of the dress so as not to impair the comfort, and near the seams. Folding the lining and giving the lining a clearness) ”and the shape retention of the outer material are taken into account, but about 70% (3.5 to 7%) of the outer elongation of the outer material is sufficient. As described above, the recent growth of the outer material is about 15 to 20%, and in order to cope with these stretch outer materials, it is necessary to further extend the weft as the lining material. As a result of the wearing test with the lining having different weft elongation on the outer surface of 15% weft elongation, the present inventors do not feel pressure or discomfort during operation if the lining elongation is 8% or more. It was confirmed. On the other hand, if the weft elongation of the lining exceeds 20%, the crimp of the weft yarn becomes large, which increases the roughness of the surface and reduces the slipperiness.

In addition, in order to satisfy the hot endurance and the wetting of the wefts that are required as the lining, the crimp index (C) represented by the equation (7) is within a certain range. desirable.
Crimp index (C) = crimp rate of product weft / {M × (D) ^0.5 } (7)
In the formula, D means warp fineness (dtex), and M means warp density (lines / inch).
The crimp index is a measure that specifies the surface structure of the backing with respect to the weft elongation of the fabric and the cover factor of the warp. The crimp index in the woven fabric unit of the present invention is preferably in the range of 0.007 to 0.015. If it is less than 0.007, the crimp ratio of the weft is low and the weft elongation is less than 8%, the warp density is too high, or the warp fineness is too thick. On the other hand, if it exceeds 0.015, the crimp ratio of the weft is too large or the warp density is too low or the warp fineness is too small, resulting in a loosely wefted fabric structure, which is likely to cause glaring and fraying. .

  On the other hand, the slidability is mentioned as a lining characteristic that affects the feeling of wearing comfort, but in order to satisfy them, the dynamic friction coefficient of the lining needs to be in the range of 0.20 to 0.40. The coefficient of dynamic friction tends to increase in proportion to the rate of weft elongation, but if it is 0.40 or less, the feeling of wearing is not impaired. When it is 0.4 or more, the detachability and the touch are poor, which is not preferable as a lining. In addition, when it is less than 0.20, for example, when wearing a skirt and sitting on a chair, etc., because the sliding with the outer material, bare skin, pantyst king, etc. is too good, the skirt's hem and the like are easily displaced This is not preferable because it causes troubles such as easy to collapse.

  Examples of the woven fabric structure of the lining of the present invention include plain weave, twill weave and satin weaving, and which woven structure is adopted may be appropriately determined depending on the use area of the lining and required characteristics. For example, for women's clothing, a thin and soft texture is preferred, so it is particularly preferable to use a plain tissue lining. It is preferable to use as a lining.

  The backing of the present invention can be produced by the method described below. The production method is basically the same as the method described in the cited document 1, and when the raw machine is processed, the width of the raw machine may be 5-30% before or after scouring. In other words, by performing the width insertion process in a state where the warp direction is more tensioned than the weft direction (width direction), the fabric shrinkage in the width direction of the fabric accompanying the increase in the warp density while suppressing the increase in the weft density as much as possible. Can be achieved by causing a crimp to form).

  When the weft is a polyester-based continuous fiber, the lining of the present invention is achieved by performing heat treatment at 160 ° C. to 210 ° C. in a state where the raw fabric is put into a width of 5 to 30% before or after scouring. Can do. This is based on the principle that the weft is formed in the weft by using the crimp of the weft formed in the raw fabric and the heat shrinkage rate of the polyester-based long fiber to develop the weft. For example, when heat treatment is performed with a pin tenter type heat setter that is generally used as a heat treatment machine when processing a fabric, the heat treatment is performed with both ends of the fabric after weaving or scouring fixed, but the fixed width is woven. What is necessary is just to process in the state made narrower than the textile width after or after scouring, and being strained in the warp direction. Here, scouring is a process of removing oils and warp glues adhering to the woven fabric after weaving, and the treatment liquid used in this scouring is preferably water or an aqueous solution containing a surfactant and an alkali. . As an apparatus, an open soap type continuous scouring machine, a liquid dyeing machine, a suspension continuation type scouring machine, a wins scouring machine, a soft scouring machine, etc. that are generally used for scouring fabrics may be used.

  After finishing the width-setting heat treatment and scouring, a dyeing and finishing process, which is a general processing process for the lining, is applied. If the texture is softer, it may be subjected to alkali weight reduction before dyeing. A normal lining processing method is applied to the dyeing process of the polyester-based long fibers, and a liquid-flow dyeing machine, a jigger dyeing machine, a beam dyeing machine, a wins dyeing machine, and the like can be used. The same applies to finishing, and a normal lining processing method may be employed. In this finishing step, an antistatic agent, a water repellent, a sweat absorbing agent and the like can be additionally provided as a finishing agent. In addition, calendering or embossing can be applied to improve the gloss, smoothness and texture of the fabric surface.

  In the dyeing process in the case of a woven fabric using polyester long fibers for wefts and cellulose long fibers for warps, the polyester long fibers are first dyed in the same manner as described above and scoured, and then dyed. Next, cellulosic long fibers are dyed. In this case, it may be dyed using the same machine as the dyeing machine for dyeing polyester long fibers, or may be dyed using another dyeing machine using the cold pad batch method, the pad steam method, or the jigger method.

  Further, when the weft is a cellulose-based long fiber, water, steam, and an alkaline aqueous solution are applied to the woven fabric in the raw state, and then the woven fabric is placed in a width of 5 to 15% with respect to the width of the raw device. The heat treatment may be performed. This is based on the principle that the weft yarn formed in the raw fabric and the cellulose-based long fiber make maximum use of the swelling action caused by water to cause the weft yarn to form a high degree of crimp and develop the weft elongation. When the cellulosic long fibers are cellulose acetate, heat treatment at 160 ° C. to 210 ° C. may be performed in a state where the woven fabric is inserted by 5 to 15% of the width of the raw machine before scouring. This is based on the principle that the weft yarn is highly formed by using the weft crimp formed in the raw fabric and the heat shrinkage rate of the cellulose acetate fiber to develop the weft.

  In order to give water to the raw fabric before scouring, there are methods that can uniformly apply water to the fabric, for example, dipping method, spray method, kiss roll method, etc., but immersion method considering processing cost and processing stability Is preferred. In order to further increase the swelling of the cellulose-based long fibers, an alkaline compound such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or sodium carbonate can be added up to about 10 wt%. When heat treatment is performed with a pin tenter type heat setter, which is generally used as a heat treatment machine after water application, heat treatment is performed with both ends of the woven fabric after weaving or scouring fixed, but the fixed width is either after weaving or scouring. What is necessary is just to process in the state made narrower than the fabric width | variety of the back, and being strained by the warp direction. After finishing the width-setting heat treatment and scouring, a dyeing and finishing process, which is a general processing process for the lining, is applied.

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example demonstrates this invention concretely, this invention is not limited only to an Example. Measurement methods, evaluation methods, etc. are as follows.
(1) Evaluation of Weft Elongation Rate Using KES-FB1 manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., a woven fabric of 20 cm × 20 cm was stretched in the weft direction with a gripping length (L) of 5 cm and a pulling speed of 0.2 mm / sec. The elongation E (%) under the stress of / m was calculated by the following formula.
E (%) = (ΔL / L) × 100 (8)
Here, ΔL is a length (cm) stretched under a stress of 490 N / m.

(2) Evaluation of Dynamic Friction Coefficient Using KES-SE of Kato Tech Co., Ltd., a cotton cloth with a scouring width of No. 3 was attached to a friction element having a friction surface size of 1 cm × 1 cm and a weight of 25 g. The coefficient of dynamic friction (μ) was obtained from the following equation from the frictional resistance force at the time of sliding on the surface of the lining fixed at speed. In the equation, A represents the average value (gf) of the frictional resistance posted on the measuring device, and B represents the weight (g) of the friction element. The friction coefficient was defined as an average value of the value of sliding in the warp direction of the lining and the value when sliding in the direction of the weft.
Coefficient of dynamic friction (μ) = A / B (9)

(3) Weft Crimp Ratio The weft crimp ratio is the length at which the load of 1/10 of the fineness is applied to the weft taken after disassembling the fabric after marking the 20 cm mark in the weft direction of the fabric. S (cm) was measured and calculated by the following formula.
Weft crimp rate (%) = {(S-20) / 20} × 100 (10)

(4) Sliding of stitches Measured according to JIS-L-1096 method (B method). Since stress is easily applied in the weft direction when worn, the slippage in the weft direction (the amount of warp displacement on the weft yarn that causes the weft to slip) was measured. Fold a piece of 10cm (width) in the warp direction and 17cm (length) in the weft direction into half the length, and sew with a seam allowance of 1cm (needle No. 11, yarn No. 50 polyester yarn, 5 stitches / cm) and cut the crease did. The piece was subjected to a constant load (5 kg / inch) in a tensile test, and a load of 0.5 kg / inch was applied after 1 hour with no load, and the amount of stitch shift at that time was defined as the amount of slippage of the stitch. The value was calculated as an average value of n = 3.

Hereinafter, in Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Example 1, actual examples in the case where polyester-based long fibers are used for warp are disclosed.
[Example 1]
56 dtex / 24f polyethylene terephthalate (sheath core structure antistatic yarn) having a twist coefficient (K) of 4260 for warp, and 56 dtex / 30f polyethylene terephthalate having a W-shaped cross-section for the weft (ratio of length of major axis to minor axis) Was used to weave a plain woven fabric having a warp density of 122 / inch and a weft density of 99 / inch.
This raw machine was put into a width of 15% with respect to the width of the raw machine fabric using a pin tenter under the condition of 190 ° C. × 30 seconds. Next, using an open soap type continuous refining machine, after treating in a bath containing 5 g / l of NaOH at 90 ° C. and 2 g / l of nonionic surfactant, washing with hot water (80 ° C.), dehydration and drying (120 ° C.) Scouring was done. Subsequently, alkali weight reduction was performed by the pad steam method (NaOH 125 g / l, penetrant Neolate NA30 10 g / l, drawing rate 40 wt%). For dyeing, a liquid dyeing machine was used, and a disperse dye (CI DISPERSE BLUE 291: 1% owf), a dispersant (manufactured by Meisei Chemical Co., Disper TL: 1 g / l), and a pH adjuster (acetic acid: 0.5 cc / The dyeing fabric was obtained by dyeing in a bath consisting of 1) at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes, and then subjected to reduction washing. A pad dry cure method (preliminary drying 100) is applied to the woven fabric using an aqueous solution composed of a water repellent (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd., NK Guard FGN 800: 1 wt%) and an antistatic agent (manufactured by Miyoshi Yushi Co., Ltd., Miuron AS222: 1 wt%). Finishing was performed at 1 ° C. × 1 minute, main drying 180 ° C. × 30 seconds) to obtain a lining. The physical property results are shown in Table 1.

[Example 2]
56 dtex / 24f polyethylene terephthalate (sheath core antistatic yarn) with a twist coefficient (K) of 4260 for warp yarns, 84 dtex / 30f polyethylene terephthalate with a W-shaped cross section for wefts (ratio of length of major axis to minor axis) Was used to weave a plain fabric having a warp density of 117 yarns / inch and a weft density of 80 yarns / inch.
The raw machine was put in a width of 18% with respect to the width of the raw machine fabric using a pin tenter under the condition of 195 ° C. × 30 seconds. Scouring, alkali reduction, dyeing and finishing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a lining. The physical property results are shown in Table 1.

Example 3
A warp yarn having a twist coefficient (K) of 7100, 56 dtex / 24f polyethylene terephthalate (an anticorrosive yarn having a sheath core structure) and a weft yarn having a round cross section of 84 dtex / 70f polyethylene terephthalate, a warp density of 120 yarns / inch, and a weft density of 82 A plain / inch plain weave was woven.
The raw machine was put in a width of 16% with respect to the width of the raw machine fabric using a pin tenter under the condition of 190 ° C. × 30 seconds. Scouring, alkali reduction, dyeing and finishing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a lining. The physical property results are shown in Table 1.

Example 4
Using warp yarns with a twist coefficient (K) of 7100, 56 dtex / 24f polyethylene terephthalate (an anticorrosive yarn having a sheath core structure), and weft yarns with 84 dtex / 45f cupra ammonium rayon, a warp density of 120 / inch and a weft density of 85 A plain fabric of / inch was woven.
This green machine is immersed in water at 25 ° C. for about 5 seconds, and after a drawing rate of 48% is obtained by a dewatering machine, a width of 14% of the fabric width after weaving is continuously 170 ° C. by a pin tenter. X Performed under conditions of 30 seconds. Scouring was performed using an open soap type continuous scouring machine in the same manner as in Example 1. Dyeing was performed at 130 ° C. for 60 minutes using a liquid flow dyeing machine. The dyeing conditions were a bath ratio of 1:20, a bath pH of 5.5, a disperse dye (CI DISPERSE BLUE 291: 1% owf) as a chemical, a direct dye (CI DIRECT BLUE 291: 1% owf), a dispersant ( Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd., Disper TL: 1 g / l) and sodium sulfate 50 g / l were used. The finishing process is a pad dry cure method, the resin is a non-formalin resin (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., Smithex Resin NF-500K: 5 wt%), and the catalyst is a metal salt catalyst (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., Smithex ACC). X-110: 1.5 wt%) and methylolamide-based softener (Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd., Nikka MS-1F: 1 wt%) as the softener, followed by pre-drying (100 ° C. × 1 minute) and a heat treatment for crosslinking (160 ° C. × 90 seconds) was performed to obtain a lining. The physical property results are shown in Table 1.

[Comparative Example 1]
A lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that untwisted use of polyethylene terephthalate (an antistatic yarn having a sheath core structure) having a warp of 56 dtex / 24f was used. The physical property results are shown in Table 1.

Example 5
A lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that polyethylene terephthalate was used as the weft of Example 3 having a 84 dtex / 36f round cross section. The physical property results are shown in Table 1.
In Examples 6 to 13 and Comparative Examples 2 to 4 below, actual examples in the case where cellulosic long fibers are used for warps are disclosed.

[Examples 6 to 8]
A warp yarn (K) having a twist coefficient (K) of 2100 (Example 6), 4260 (Example 7) and 7100 (Example 8) with a 56 dtex / 30 f cupra ammonium rayon and a weft with a 56 dtex / 45 f cupra ammonium rayon, A plain fabric having a warp density of 136 / inch and a weft density of 103 / inch was woven.
After immersing this raw machine in a 3.15 wt% NaOH aqueous solution (5 ° bow) at 30 ° C. using an open soaper type continuous refining machine in order to make a width of about 12% of the woven fabric width after weaving Then, hot water washing (80 ° C.) and water washing were repeated and dehydrated and dried (120 ° C.). The substantial width insertion ratio became higher as the twisting factor became higher (9.5%, 10.2%, 11.2%). Staining was performed by cold batch method at 25 ° C. for 15 hours. As the dye, a vinyl sulfone reactive dye (SUMIFIX NAVY BLUE GS: 1% owf) was used, and 10 g / l of sodium hydroxide was used as an auxiliary agent. Subsequent finishing was performed according to the formulation of Example 4 to obtain a lining. However, double the amount of resin and catalyst concentration was used. The physical property results are shown in Table 2.

[Comparative Examples 2-3]
Using 56 dtex / 30f cupra ammonium rayon with a twist coefficient (K) of 1060 (Comparative Example 2) and 16300 (Comparative Example 3) for warp, and 56 dtex / 45f cupra ammonium rayon for the weft, a warp density of 136 yarns / inch, A plain woven fabric having a weft density of 103 / inch was woven.
This raw machine was subjected to scouring / width filling, dyeing and finishing according to the method of Example 6 to obtain a lining. The physical property results are shown in Table 2.

Example 9
The warp yarn has a twist coefficient (K) of 14100, 66 dtex / 36 f of cupra ammonium rayon alternately used in two SSZZs, and the weft of 84 dtex / 54 f of cupra ammonium rayon, using a warp density of 118 yarns / inch and a weft density of 83 yarns / inch. Inch plain fabric was woven. This raw machine was subjected to scouring / width filling, dyeing and finishing according to the method of Example 6 to obtain a lining. The physical property results are shown in Table 2.

Example 10
The warp yarn has a twist coefficient (K) of 14200 with 84 dtex / 45f of cupra ammonium rayon alternately used in two SSZZs, and the weft with 84 dtex / 45f of cupra ammonium rayon with a warp density of 113 / inch and a weft density of 72 / Inch plain fabric was woven. This raw machine was subjected to scouring / width filling, dyeing and finishing according to the method of Example 6 to obtain a lining. Table 3 shows the physical property results.

[Comparative Example 4]
A lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 10 except for using untwisted cupra ammonium rayon with a warp of 84 dtex / 45f. Table 3 shows the physical property results.

Example 11
Use 56 dtex / 30f cupra ammonium rayon with a twist coefficient (K) of 7100 for the warp, and 84 dtex / 30f polyethylene terephthalate with a W-shaped cross section for the weft (the ratio of the length of the major axis to the minor axis is about 3: 1). A plain woven fabric having a warp density of 136 / inch and a weft density of 85 / inch was woven.
Using a pin tenter, the raw machine was placed at a width of 12% relative to the width of the raw machine fabric under the condition of 190 ° C. × 30 seconds. Scouring was performed using an open soap type continuous scouring machine in the same manner as in Example 1. Dyeing was performed at 130 ° C. for 60 minutes using a liquid flow dyeing machine. The dyeing conditions were a bath ratio of 1:20, a bath pH of 5.5, a disperse dye (CI DISPERSE BLUE 291: 1% owf) as a chemical, a direct dye (CI DIRECT BLUE 291: 1% owf), a dispersant ( Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd., Disper TL: 1 g / l) and sodium sulfate 50 g / l were used. The finishing process is a pad dry cure method, the resin is a non-formalin resin (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., Smithex Resin NF-500K: 5 wt%), and the catalyst is a metal salt catalyst (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., Smithex ACC). X-110: 1.5 wt%) and methylolamide-based softener (Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd., Nikka MS-1F: 1 wt%) as the softener, followed by pre-drying (100 ° C. × 1 minute) and a heat treatment for crosslinking (160 ° C. × 90 seconds) was performed to obtain a lining. Table 3 shows the physical property results.

Example 12
Using a 84 dtex / 33f viscose rayon with a twist coefficient (K) of 5200 for the warp and a 110 dtex / 44f viscose rayon for the weft, a twill fabric having a warp density of 136 yarns / inch and a weft density of 71 yarns / inch is obtained. Weaved.
This raw machine was scoured, filled, dyed and finished according to Example 6 to obtain a lining. Table 3 shows the physical property results.

Example 13
A plain woven fabric having a warp density of 136 yarns / inch and a weft density of 80 yarns / inch was woven using 56 dtex / 30f cupra ammonium rayon having a twist coefficient of 7100 for the warp yarn and 84 dtex / 20f diacetate continuous fiber for the weft yarn.

  After immersing the raw machine in water at 25 ° C. for about 5 seconds, after reducing the drawing ratio to 51% with a dewatering machine, continuously using a pin tenter, a width of 10% with respect to the fabric width after weaving is 190 ° C. × 30 Performed under the condition of seconds. Scouring was performed according to Example 1. After dyeing diacetate with a disperse dye (CI DISPERSE BLUE 291: 1% owf) and a dispersant (manufactured by Meisei Chemical Co., Disper TL: 1 g / l) at 95 ° C. for 1 hour by the jigger dyeing method. The cupra ammonium rayon was dyed with a direct dye (C.I DIRECT BLUE 291: 1% owf) and sodium sulfate 50 g / l. The finishing process is a pad dry cure method, the resin is a non-formalin resin (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., Smithex Resin NF-500K: 5 wt%), and the catalyst is a metal salt catalyst (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., Smithex ACC). X-110: 1.5 wt%) and methylolamide-based softener (Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd., Nikka MS-1F: 1 wt%) as the softener, followed by pre-drying (100 ° C. × 1 minute) and a heat treatment for crosslinking (160 ° C. × 90 seconds) was performed to obtain a lining. Table 3 shows the physical property results.

  An object of the present invention is to provide a stretch lining having an elongation of 8% or more in the weft direction without impairing the slipperiness, and with such performance, it is excellent in wearing comfort with less slipping of the seam at the time of wearing and a feeling of pressure. This makes it possible to provide a lining material. The lining of the present invention is particularly suitable for lining garments having a stretch rate of 15% or more on the outer material.

4 is an electron micrograph of a cross-sectional shape of a fabric in Comparative Example 2. It is an electron micrograph of the textile cross-sectional shape in Example 7. FIG.

Claims (1)

Raw yarns of polyester-based continuous fibers or cellulose-based long fibers that are substantially untwisted polyester-based long fibers or cellulose-based long fibers having a twist coefficient (K) of 2000-15000 defined by the following formula (1) In the weft, the weft elongation of the fabric is 8 to 20%, the dynamic friction coefficient of the fabric surface is 0.20 to 0.40, and the crimp index (C ) Is 0.007 to 0.015.
K = (0.9 × D) ^0.5 × T (1)
C = crimp rate of product weft / {M × (D) ^0.5 } (2)
In the formula, D means warp fineness (dtex), T means the number of twists (t / m), and M means warp density (lines / inch).