JP5778400B2 - Water-absorbing quick-drying fabric - Google Patents
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本発明は吸水速乾性に優れたセルロース繊維布帛に関するものである。さらに詳しくは、優れた吸水速乾性能の洗濯耐久性に優れ、かつしなやかな風合を有し、色の鮮明性に優れたセルロース繊維の染色布帛製品に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a cellulose fiber fabric excellent in water absorption and quick drying. More specifically, the present invention relates to a dyed fabric product of cellulose fibers having excellent water absorption and quick drying performance, excellent washing durability, a supple texture, and excellent color clarity.
綿等のセルロース繊維は、衣服に多く使用されているが、近年、衣服の着用時、特に夏場における着用快適性を満足するため吸水速乾性を有する布帛の開発が求められている。
一般には、吸水性が低く、乾燥速度の速いポリエステル繊維と綿をはじめ吸水性を有する繊維素材との組み合わせにて吸水速乾性を得る布帛開発が多くなされている。
一方、紳士肌着に代表されるように綿等のセルロース繊維のみからなる商品は、肌触り性、ソフト風合、吸水性は良好なものの、汗をかいた時、水分保持能が強いため、吸い取った汗は拡散せず、ベタツキ感があり着用快適性に劣るものである。
Cellulose fibers such as cotton are often used in clothes, but in recent years, there has been a demand for the development of a water-absorbing and quick-drying fabric in order to satisfy the wearing comfort especially in summer.
In general, many fabrics have been developed to obtain water-absorbing and quick-drying properties by combining polyester fibers having a low water-absorbing property and a fast drying rate with cotton and other fiber materials having water-absorbing properties.
On the other hand, products made only of cellulose fibers such as cotton, as represented by gentleman underwear, have good skin feel, soft texture, and good water absorption, but have a good moisture retention when sweated. Sweat does not diffuse, has a sticky feeling and is inferior in wearing comfort.
セルロース繊維のみにて吸水速乾性を付与しようとすると、セルロース繊維の膨潤度を抑制する改質加工が必要となるが、通常の編織した生地への後加工による架橋反応及び樹脂加工処理では、速乾性を高めるために含水率を高度に低下させる目的での改質反応を強化すると非常に風合が硬くなる問題がある。更に、含水率をより低下させたり、疎水性が強すぎる改質加工をすると、セルロース繊維が具備している本来の吸水性を損なう問題があり、その改質の程度のコントロールが困難であり、強力低下を生じる問題もある。また、セルロース繊維を疎水化するために疎水性化学物質を固定化反応させる方法や疎水性高分子化学物質を繊維表面にコーティングする方法でも同様に疎水性の程度をコントロールすることは困難であるという問題があり、セルロース繊維の本来具備している吸水性を阻害せずに、含水率を減少させ速乾性を高める方法は得られていない。 In order to impart water-absorbing and quick-drying properties only with cellulose fibers, a modification process that suppresses the degree of swelling of cellulose fibers is necessary. If the reforming reaction for the purpose of reducing the water content to a high degree is enhanced in order to increase the dryness, the texture becomes very hard. Furthermore, when the moisture content is further reduced or the modification process is too hydrophobic, there is a problem of impairing the original water absorption of the cellulose fiber, and it is difficult to control the degree of modification. There is also a problem that causes a drop in strength. In addition, it is difficult to control the degree of hydrophobicity by the method of immobilizing the hydrophobic chemical substance to make the cellulose fiber hydrophobic or the method of coating the surface of the fiber with a hydrophobic polymer chemical substance. There is a problem, and a method for reducing the moisture content and increasing the quick drying property without inhibiting the inherent water absorption of the cellulose fiber has not been obtained.
また、織成または編成後の精練工程等において、極度に吸水性を向上させ、かつその状態を全ての加工工程にて維持することにより、優れた吸水拡散性を得る方法が特許文献１に開示されている。しかしながらこの方法においては、吸水拡散性能は向上するものの、しなやかな風合と染色性の向上は得られないという問題がある。
また、セルロース分解酵素にてセルロース繊維を減量させる方法が特許文献２、３に開示されている。しかしながらこれらの方法においては、ソフトな風合や緻密なフィブリルを得ることが目的であり、吸水拡散性、速乾性、染色性の向上は得られないという問題がある。
従って、現状ではセルロース繊維からなる織物染色品において、特にセルロース繊維のみからなる織物染色品において、吸水拡散性、吸水速乾性能の洗濯耐久性が優れ、なおかつ、しなやかな風合を有し、染色性に優れた染色製品が得られていないのが実状である。
Further, Patent Document 1 discloses a method of obtaining excellent water absorption diffusivity by extremely improving water absorption in a scouring process after weaving or knitting and maintaining the state in all processing steps. Has been. However, in this method, although the water absorption and diffusion performance is improved, there is a problem that a supple texture and an improvement in dyeability cannot be obtained.
Further, Patent Documents 2 and 3 disclose methods for reducing the amount of cellulose fiber using a cellulolytic enzyme. However, in these methods, there is a problem that the purpose is to obtain a soft texture and dense fibrils, and improvement in water absorption diffusivity, quick drying property and dyeability cannot be obtained.
Therefore, at present, in fabric dyed products made of cellulose fibers, especially in fabric dyed products made only of cellulose fibers, the water-absorbing diffusibility and water-absorbing quick-drying washing durability is excellent, and it has a supple texture and is dyed. The fact is that dyed products with excellent properties have not been obtained.
本発明は、セルロース繊維からなる織物において、吸水拡散性、吸水速乾性能の洗濯による耐久性に優れ、しなやかな風合を保持し、色の鮮明性に優れ、着用感に優れた吸水速乾性織物およびその製造方法を提供することを目的とする。 The present invention is a woven fabric made of cellulose fibers, having excellent water-diffusion and water-absorbing fast-drying durability by washing, maintaining a supple texture, excellent color sharpness, and water-absorbing quick-drying It aims at providing a textile fabric and its manufacturing method.
本発明者は上記課題について、鋭意検討した所、セルロース繊維からなる織物をセルロース分解酵素にて減量処理することで、セルロース繊維表面の繊維軸方向に沿って特定の大きさからなる筋状溝を形成させることができ、その結果、吸水速乾性能の洗濯耐久性が改良されることを見出し、本発明をなすに至った。
すなわち本発明は、以下の発明を提供する。
The present inventor has intensively studied the above problems, and by reducing the weight of a woven fabric made of cellulose fibers with a cellulolytic enzyme, a streak groove having a specific size is formed along the fiber axis direction of the surface of the cellulose fibers. As a result, it was found that the washing durability of the water-absorbing quick-drying performance was improved, and the present invention was made.
That is, the present invention provides the following inventions.
（１）セルロース繊維からなる織物であって、該セルロース繊維の表面にセルロース繊維軸方向長さ５０μｍ当たり、幅０．０５〜１．０μｍ、長さ３〜２５μｍの筋状溝が１０個以上存在することを特徴とする吸水速乾性織物。
（２）洗濯５０回後の滴下法による水滴消失時間が５秒以下であることを特徴とする上記（１）に記載の吸水速乾性織物。
（３）洗濯５０回後の速乾性が４０分以下であることを特徴とする上記（１）または（２）に記載の吸水速乾性織物。
（４）洗濯５０回後の吸水拡散面積が、８ｃｍ2以上であることを特徴とする上記（１）〜（３）のいずれか一項に記載の吸水速乾性織物。
（５）セルロース繊維のみからなる織物を、セルロース分解酵素にて、６５℃以下の温度で１．５〜７．５％減量処理した後、染色することを特徴とする吸水速乾性織物染色布帛の製造方法。
(1) A woven fabric composed of cellulose fibers, and the surface of the cellulose fibers has 10 or more streak grooves having a width of 0.05 to 1.0 μm and a length of 3 to 25 μm per 50 μm in the cellulose fiber axial direction. A water-absorbing quick-drying woven fabric characterized by
(2) The water-absorbing quick-drying woven fabric according to (1) above, wherein the water drop disappearance time by the dropping method after 50 washings is 5 seconds or less.
(3) The water-absorbing quick-drying fabric according to (1) or (2), wherein the quick-drying after 50 washings is 40 minutes or less.
(4) The water-absorbing quick-drying fabric according to any one of (1) to (3) above, wherein the water-absorbing diffusion area after 50 washings is 8 cm 2 or more.
(5) A water-absorbing quick-drying fabric-dyed fabric characterized by dyeing a woven fabric consisting only of cellulose fibers with a cellulose-degrading enzyme at a temperature of 65 ° C. or lower at a temperature of 1.5 to 7.5%. Production method.
本発明は、セルロース繊維から構成される吸水速乾性織物である。セルロース繊維をセルロース分解酵素で減量処理することで、セルロース繊維の表面に特定の大きさの筋状溝が形成され、このことにより、水をすばやく吸い取る力とすばやく拡散させる力の２つの力が相乗効果を発揮し、優れた吸水速乾性能の洗濯耐久性が改善される。 The present invention is a water-absorbing quick-drying fabric composed of cellulose fibers. By reducing the weight of the cellulose fiber with cellulolytic enzyme, a specific size of streak is formed on the surface of the cellulose fiber, which synergizes the two forces of quickly absorbing water and quickly diffusing water. It is effective and improves the durability of washing with excellent water absorption and quick drying performance.
本発明について、以下に詳細に説明する。
本発明は、セルロース繊維から構成される吸水速乾性織物に関し、セルロース繊維をセルロース分解酵素で減量処理することで、セルロース繊維表面の繊維軸方向に特定の大きさの筋状溝を形成させ、吸水速乾性およびその洗濯耐久性を改良したものである。
The present invention will be described in detail below.
The present invention relates to a water-absorbing quick-drying fabric composed of cellulose fibers, by reducing the weight of cellulose fibers with a cellulolytic enzyme, thereby forming streak-like grooves of a specific size in the fiber axis direction on the surface of cellulose fibers, and absorbing water The quick-drying property and the washing durability are improved.
一般に、衣服の着用時、汗をかいたときでも快く感じるには、布帛が水分を吸い取る力を有することが必要であるが、汗を吸い取るだけでは一ヶ所に水分が保持されるので布帛の乾燥性が悪い場合には、べたつき感が解消されず不快に感じたままである。
このべたつき感を解消するためには、水分をすばやく吸い取る力と吸い取った水分をすばやく拡散させる力が同時に必要であり、この２つの力は、適下法における水滴消失時間と吸水拡散面積で表すことができる。また、スポーツ衣料や肌着衣料のように洗濯回数の多い用途においては、すくなくとも洗濯５０回の耐久性が必用であり、耐久性が高いということにより商品としての実用的価値も高くなる。
Generally, in order to feel comfortable even when sweating when wearing clothes, it is necessary for the fabric to have the ability to absorb moisture, but moisture can be retained in one place simply by absorbing sweat, so the fabric can be dried. When the nature is poor, the sticky feeling is not eliminated and the person feels uncomfortable.
In order to eliminate this stickiness, it is necessary to have the ability to quickly absorb moisture and the ability to diffuse the absorbed moisture at the same time. These two forces should be expressed by the water drop disappearance time and the water absorption diffusion area in the appropriate method. Can do. Further, in applications where the number of times of washing is high, such as sports clothing and underwear clothing, the durability of at least 50 washings is necessary, and the practical value as a product increases due to the high durability.
この様に、汗をかいたときの快適性向上のためには、すばやく水分を吸い取る力と、吸い取った水分をすばやく拡散させる２つの機能を同時に発揮させるためには、本発明でいう筋状溝がセルロース繊維表面に一定の繊維軸方向長さあたりに一定数以上の個数存在することが必要である。この筋状溝は、後述するセルロース分解酵素で織物を減量処理することで構成する繊維の表面に形成させることができる。 As described above, in order to improve the comfort when sweating, in order to simultaneously exert both the power to quickly absorb moisture and the two functions to quickly diffuse the absorbed moisture, the streak groove referred to in the present invention is used. However, it is necessary that a certain number or more exist on the surface of the cellulose fiber per certain length in the fiber axis direction. This streak-like groove can be formed on the surface of the fiber formed by reducing the weight of the fabric with a cellulose-degrading enzyme described later.
本発明では、セルロース繊維表面に繊維軸方向長さ５０μｍ当たり、幅０．０５〜１．０μｍ、長さ３〜２５μｍの筋状溝が１０個以上存在している。なお、筋状溝は、繊維軸方向に対し、ほぼ平行である必要はなく、４５度まで傾いていてもよい。
この筋状溝を有することで、汗をかいたときの快適性向上のために求められる機能である、水分をすばやく吸い取る力と水分を拡散させる力が最大限に発揮され、着用時に汗をかいたときに体に貼り付くことがなく、べたつき感を感じなく、すばやく乾燥することから着心地のよさを感じる。また、風合にしなやか性が強くなり肌ざわり性も良好であり、その効果は、繰り返し洗濯を行っても続くものである。
In the present invention, there are 10 or more streak-like grooves having a width of 0.05 to 1.0 μm and a length of 3 to 25 μm per 50 μm in the fiber axis direction on the surface of the cellulose fiber. In addition, the streak-like groove does not need to be substantially parallel to the fiber axis direction, and may be inclined up to 45 degrees.
By having these streak-like grooves, the ability to quickly absorb moisture and the ability to diffuse moisture, which is a function required for improving comfort when sweating, is exerted to the maximum, so that sweat is applied when worn. It does not stick to the body when it is, and does not feel sticky. It feels comfortable because it dries quickly. In addition, the texture is supple and the texture is good, and the effect continues even after repeated washing.
筋状溝において、幅が０．０５μｍ未満で、長さが３μｍ未満の場合は、水分を吸い取り拡散させる力が弱く、すばやく乾燥させることが十分に発揮できない。一方、幅が１．０μｍ以上で、長さが２５μｍ以上の場合、保水力が強くなる傾向となり、乾燥速度が悪くなる。また、個数が１０個未満では、吸い取った水の拡散作用が弱くなり、乾燥速度が悪くなる。このようなことから、筋状溝を形成させることが重要である。筋状溝の幅は０．２μｍ以上、０．９μｍ以下が好ましく、長さは６μｍ以上、２０μｍ以下が好ましい。筋状溝の個数は、８０個以下であることが好ましい。この範囲であれば、特に優れた吸水速乾性およびその洗濯耐久性を発現することができる。 When the width is less than 0.05 μm and the length is less than 3 μm in the streak-like groove, the force for absorbing and diffusing moisture is weak, and it is not possible to sufficiently dry quickly. On the other hand, when the width is 1.0 μm or more and the length is 25 μm or more, the water retention power tends to be strong, and the drying speed is deteriorated. On the other hand, if the number is less than 10, the diffusing action of the absorbed water is weakened, and the drying speed is deteriorated. For this reason, it is important to form streak-like grooves. The width of the streak groove is preferably 0.2 μm or more and 0.9 μm or less, and the length is preferably 6 μm or more and 20 μm or less. The number of streak-like grooves is preferably 80 or less. If it is this range, the outstanding water absorption quick-drying property and its washing | cleaning durability can be expressed.
このような筋状溝は織物を後述するセルロース分解酵素処理することにより、セルロース繊維重量の１．５〜７．５％を減量することで得られる。
減量率が１．５％未満の場合、筋状溝の幅が０．０５μｍ未満、長さが３μｍ未満となり、個数も１０個未満となり、吸い取った水の輸送力が弱く、拡散性も極めて悪く、吸水速乾性能は悪くなり、しなやかな風合は得られず、色の鮮明性も得られない。
一方、減量率が７．５％を越えた場合、筋状溝の幅が大きくなり、比表面積が増大し、保水力が高まり、吸水した水の拡散性が悪くなるとともに、保水力の高まりが、実用洗濯における洗濯後の脱水において、振り切り脱水率が悪くなり、乾燥速度が遅くなるという問題とセルロース繊維の強力低下が大きくなるという問題がある。
Such streak-like grooves can be obtained by reducing the weight of cellulose fibers by 1.5 to 7.5% by treating the fabric with a cellulose-degrading enzyme described later.
When the weight loss rate is less than 1.5%, the width of the streak groove is less than 0.05 μm, the length is less than 3 μm, the number is less than 10, the transported water is weakly transported, and the diffusibility is extremely poor. The water-absorbing and quick-drying performance is deteriorated, a supple texture is not obtained, and the color sharpness is not obtained.
On the other hand, when the weight loss rate exceeds 7.5%, the width of the streak groove increases, the specific surface area increases, the water retention capacity increases, the diffusibility of the absorbed water deteriorates, and the water retention capacity increases. In dehydration after washing in practical laundry, there is a problem that the rate of spin-off dehydration is deteriorated and the drying rate is slow, and the strength reduction of cellulose fibers is increased.
セルロース繊維表面の筋状溝をコントロールする手段としては、セルロース分解酵素処理時の酵素（セルラーゼ）濃度、ｐＨ、浴比、処理温度、時間があり、処理条件としては、浴比を１：０．５〜１：５０程度にし、用いるセルラーゼの活性に最適なｐＨとなるように、酸性活性セルラーゼの場合、酢酸やクエン酸、中性活性セルラーゼの場合、リン酸ナトリウム、アルカリ活性セルラーゼの場合、アンモニアや炭酸ナトリウム等の緩衝剤を単独で、または併用して使用し調整を行う。セルラーゼの使用濃度は、セルラーゼの有する活性や目指す減量率により異なるが、一般には０．３〜１５重量％で、処理温度は４０〜６５℃で、処理時間は３０〜３００分が好ましい。 As means for controlling the streak-like grooves on the surface of the cellulose fiber, there are enzyme (cellulase) concentration, pH, bath ratio, treatment temperature, and time at the time of cellulose-degrading enzyme treatment. In the case of acid active cellulase, acetic acid or citric acid, in the case of neutral active cellulase, sodium phosphate, in the case of alkaline active cellulase, ammonia so that the pH is about 5 to 1:50. Or using a buffering agent such as sodium carbonate alone or in combination. The concentration of cellulase used varies depending on the activity of the cellulase and the target weight loss rate, but is generally 0.3 to 15% by weight, the treatment temperature is 40 to 65 ° C., and the treatment time is preferably 30 to 300 minutes.
本発明で用いるセルロース分解酵素には、エキソグルカナーゼ、エンドグルカナーゼ、セルビアーゼ、β−グルコシダーゼ、セロビアーゼ等のセルラーゼ類が含まれ、それぞれ単独または複数組み合わせて使用すればよい。
セルロース分解酵素による処理に際しては、ロータリドラム染色機、パドル染色機、ウインスリール染色機、ジッガー染色機、液流染色機、気流染色機等の回転式染色装置を使用することができるが、パッド−ロール、パッド−ジッグ染色機のように拡布状で処理できる装置を使用した方が、本発明の筋状溝形成をコントロールし易いのでより好ましい。
処理後は酵素の失活処理を行うが、使用する酵素が失活する温度で処理すればよく、７０から１００℃で、１５分から３０分が好ましい。また、処理浴にアルカリ剤を併用することが酵素の脱着を促進するので好ましい。
Cellulose-degrading enzymes used in the present invention include cellulases such as exoglucanase, endoglucanase, serbase, β-glucosidase, cellobiase, etc., and each may be used alone or in combination.
In the treatment with the cellulolytic enzyme, rotary dyeing machines such as rotary drum dyeing machines, paddle dyeing machines, Wins reel dyeing machines, jigger dyeing machines, liquid dyeing machines, airflow dyeing machines, etc. can be used. It is more preferable to use an apparatus capable of processing in an expanded form, such as a roll or pad-jig dyeing machine, because it is easy to control the formation of the streak groove of the present invention.
After the treatment, the enzyme is deactivated, but it may be treated at a temperature at which the enzyme used is deactivated, preferably 70 to 100 ° C. and 15 to 30 minutes. In addition, it is preferable to use an alkaline agent in the treatment bath because it promotes desorption of the enzyme.
溝状筋の形状が本発明の範囲にあると、優れた吸水速乾性およびその洗濯耐久性を奏する。
本発明の吸水速乾性織物において、洗濯５０回後の水滴消失時間は５秒以下が好ましい。より好ましくは、３秒以下である。また、洗濯５０回後の乾燥性は４０分以内であることが好ましく、より好ましくは３８分以下であり、洗濯５０回後の吸水拡散面積は８ｃｍ2以上であることが好ましく、より好ましくは１０ｃｍ2以上である。
筋状溝の形状が本発明のいう範囲にあると洗濯耐久性が向上するが、その理由は、洗濯後もその形状が損なわれること無くなく維持されていることから、水の輸送力、吸水拡散効果がほとんど変わらないからであると思われる。
When the shape of the groove-like streaks is within the range of the present invention, excellent water-absorbing quick-drying properties and washing durability thereof are exhibited.
In the water-absorbing quick-drying fabric of the present invention, the water drop disappearance time after 50 washings is preferably 5 seconds or less. More preferably, it is 3 seconds or less. Further, the drying property after 50 washings is preferably within 40 minutes, more preferably 38 minutes or less, and the water absorption and diffusion area after 50 washings is preferably 8 cm 2 or more, more preferably 10 cm. 2 or more.
When the shape of the streak groove is within the range of the present invention, the durability of washing is improved. The reason is that the shape is maintained without being damaged even after washing. This is probably because the diffusion effect hardly changes.
本発明においてセルロース繊維とは、綿、麻等の天然セルロース系繊維やレーヨン、ポリノジック等の再生セルロース繊維をいい、再生セルロース繊維が好ましく使用でき、中でもキュプラ（旭化成せんい製ベンベルグ）を用いた場合、本発明の効果が最も顕著に現れる。再生セルロース繊維（長繊維）は筋状溝の幅、長さのコントロールがし易いという面からも好ましい。
また、本発明のセルロース繊維織物中に、再生セルロース繊維が５０％以上含まれるのが好ましい。その他、絹、ウール、ポリエステル、ポリアミド、ポリウレタン、ポリアクリル繊維が５０％まで含まれていても良いが、好ましくはセルロース繊維１００％である。
Cellulose fiber in the present invention refers to natural cellulosic fibers such as cotton and hemp, and regenerated cellulose fibers such as rayon and polynosic, and regenerated cellulose fibers can be preferably used. Among them, cupra (Asahi Kasei Fibers Bemberg) is used. The effect of the present invention is most noticeable. Regenerated cellulose fibers (long fibers) are also preferable from the viewpoint of easy control of the width and length of the streak-like grooves.
Moreover, it is preferable that 50% or more of regenerated cellulose fibers are contained in the cellulose fiber fabric of the present invention. In addition, silk, wool, polyester, polyamide, polyurethane, and polyacryl fiber may be contained up to 50%, preferably 100% cellulose fiber.
本発明で用いるセルロース繊維は、特に限定はしないが総繊度が３０〜３００デシテックスでの繊維が好ましい。さらに、断面形状がＬ型断面の場合、しなやかな風合が得やすいとともに比表面積が大きくなっていることから、セルラーゼによる減量処理の効率が高まり、凹部周辺に筋状溝が形成されやすく、本発明の効果が十分に達成されるので好ましい。 Although the cellulose fiber used by this invention is not specifically limited, The fiber whose total fineness is 30-300 dtex is preferable. Furthermore, when the cross-sectional shape is an L-shaped cross-section, since it is easy to obtain a supple texture and the specific surface area is large, the efficiency of weight loss treatment with cellulase is increased, and streak grooves are easily formed around the recesses. This is preferable because the effects of the invention are sufficiently achieved.
また繊維の形態は、長繊維でも短繊維でもよく、長さ方向に均一なものや太細のあるものでもよい。そして、繊維が加工される糸条の形態としては、リング紡績糸、オープンエンド紡績糸、エアジェット精紡糸等の紡績糸、甘撚糸〜強撚糸、仮撚加工糸、空気噴射加工糸、押し込み加工糸、ニットデニット加工糸等がある。 The form of the fibers may be long fibers or short fibers, and may be uniform or thick in the length direction. And, as the form of the yarn to be processed, the spun yarn such as ring spun yarn, open end spun yarn, air jet fine spun yarn, sweet twisted yarn-strong twisted yarn, false twisted yarn, air injection processed yarn, indentation processing There are yarn, knitted knitted yarn and the like.
糸条の形態の例としては、混紡（混綿、フリース混紡、スライバー混紡、コアヤーン、サイロスパン、サイロフィル、ホロースピンドル等）、交絡混繊、交撚、意匠撚糸、カバリング（シングル、ダブル）、複合仮撚（同時仮撚、先撚仮撚）、伸度差仮撚、位相差、仮撚加工後に後混繊、２フィード（同時フィードやフィード差）空気噴射加工等による混用形態が挙げられる。 Examples of yarn forms include blended yarn (blended cotton, fleece blended, sliver blended, core yarn, silo span, silofill, hollow spindle, etc.), entangled blended yarn, twisted yarn, design twisted yarn, covering (single, double), composite temporary Examples of the mixed use include twisting (simultaneous false twisting, first twist false twisting), elongation difference false twisting, phase difference, post-mixing after false twisting, and two-feed (simultaneous feed or feed difference) air jet machining.
織物布帛の形態の例としては、一般的な織物であればいずれでもよく、本発明のセルロース繊維１００％から構成されているものが好ましいが、５０％以下の量で他の繊維が混用されていても良い。他の繊維との混用方法としては、引き揃えて給糸したり、一方が経糸に他方を緯糸に用いる、経糸及び又は緯糸において両者を１〜３本交互に整経や緯入れにより配置する、さらには起毛織物やパイル織物において一方が地組織を構成し、他方が起毛部、パイル部を構成する、二重織物において表面及び又は裏面を各々構成、又は混用して構成する等がある。またこれら各種の糸段階での複合と機上での複合を組み合わせてもよい。 As an example of the form of the woven fabric, any general woven fabric may be used, and it is preferably composed of 100% of the cellulose fiber of the present invention, but other fibers are mixed in an amount of 50% or less. May be. As a method of mixing with other fibers, the yarns are arranged and fed, or one is used for the warp and the other is used for the weft. In the warp and / or the weft, both are alternately arranged by warping or weft insertion. Further, one of the brushed fabric and the pile fabric constitutes a ground structure, and the other constitutes a raised portion and a pile portion, and the front and back surfaces of the double woven fabric are configured or mixed. Further, a combination of these various yarn stages and a combination on the machine may be combined.
本発明の効果を得るには、セルロース繊維織物を染色に先立ちセルロース分解酵素にて１．５〜７．５％の減量処理が不可欠である。さらに好ましくは２．５〜６．５％に制御することによってセルロース染色布帛に吸水速乾性能の洗濯耐久性、しなやかな風合、色の鮮明性を付与することが可能となる。減量処理は、染色工程の前であれば、精練、リラックスなどの工程の前後やあるいは同時に実施してもかまわない。織物を作成した後、減量処理を行っても良く、減量処理したセルロース繊維を用いて織物を作成しても良く、セルロース繊維からなる編地を減量処理し、これをデニットした糸を用いて織物を作成しても良く、これらを組み合わせても良い。 In order to obtain the effect of the present invention, it is indispensable to reduce the weight of the cellulose fiber fabric by 1.5 to 7.5% with cellulose-degrading enzyme prior to dyeing. More preferably, by controlling the content to 2.5 to 6.5%, it becomes possible to impart water-absorbing quick-drying washing durability, supple texture, and color sharpness to the cellulose dyed fabric. The weight reduction treatment may be performed before or after or simultaneously with the scouring and relaxing steps as long as it is before the dyeing step. After creating the woven fabric, the weight reduction treatment may be performed, the woven fabric may be created using the cellulose fiber subjected to the weight reduction treatment, and the knitted fabric made of the cellulose fiber is subjected to the weight reduction treatment, and the woven fabric is used by knitting the yarn. May be created, or these may be combined.
本発明のセルロース繊維織物の染色仕上加工については、セルロース分解酵素処理後に実施するが、その染色、仕上加工法は、通常セルロース繊維が実施されている条件であればいずれでも適用でき、織物の特性に応じ適宜設定すればよい。仕上加工剤には、超分子化アミノ変性シリコーンを用いることが好ましい。
このようにして得られたセルロース繊維からなる染色織物布帛は、色の鮮明性に優れ、しなやかな風合を有し、優れた吸水速乾性能の洗濯耐久性を発揮するとともに、着用快適性にも優れ、かつ堅牢度性能も良好である。具体的には、ＪＩＳ−Ｌ−０８４８ Ａ法における汗アルカリ堅牢度が３級以上である、商品価値の高い織物染色品を得ることができる。
The dyeing and finishing of the cellulose fiber fabric of the present invention is carried out after the cellulose-degrading enzyme treatment, and the dyeing and finishing method can be applied to any conditions as long as the cellulose fibers are usually used. It may be set as appropriate according to the conditions. It is preferable to use supramolecularized amino-modified silicone as the finishing agent.
The dyed woven fabric made of cellulose fibers thus obtained has excellent color clarity, has a supple texture, exhibits excellent water-absorbing quick-drying washing durability, and is comfortable to wear. And fastness performance is also good. Specifically, it is possible to obtain a textile dyed product having a high commercial value, in which the fastness to sweat alkali in the JIS-L-0848 A method is tertiary or higher.
以下に本発明を実施例などにより更に具体的に説明するが、本発明はこれら実施例のみに限定されるものではない。尚、本発明で用いられる特性値の測定法を以下に示す。
（１）セルロース繊維表面の筋状溝の状態
走査型電子顕微鏡（日立製作所製、形式Ｓ−３５００Ｎ）を用いて、サンプル布帛のセルロース繊維表面を１８００倍に拡大し、任意に５ヶ所写真撮影し、スケールゲージをもとに、筋状溝の幅、長さを及び数を測定し、繊維長５０μｍあたりの数（個）を算出して平均値を求めた。
The present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples and the like. However, the present invention is not limited to these examples. In addition, the measuring method of the characteristic value used by this invention is shown below.
(1) State of streak groove on cellulose fiber surface Using a scanning electron microscope (manufactured by Hitachi, Model S-3500N), the cellulose fiber surface of the sample fabric is magnified 1800 times and arbitrarily photographed at five places. Based on the scale gauge, the width, length and number of the streak grooves were measured, and the number per fiber length of 50 μm was calculated to obtain the average value.
（２）洗濯条件
ＪＩＳ Ｌ−０２１７ １０３法に従って、５０回行った。尚、洗剤は、花王製アタック １ｇ／Ｌを用いた。
（３）水滴消失時間
ＪＩＳ Ｌ−１０９７ 滴下法に従って水滴消失時間を評価した。サンプル毎に５回測定を行い、平均水滴消失時間を求めた。尚、このときの水滴１滴の平均量は０．０３９ｍｌであった。
(2) Washing conditions According to JIS L-0217 103 method, it was performed 50 times. The detergent used was Kao Attack 1 g / L.
(3) Water drop disappearance time The water drop disappearance time was evaluated according to JIS L-1097 dropping method. Measurement was performed 5 times for each sample, and the average water droplet disappearance time was determined. At this time, the average amount of one water droplet was 0.039 ml.
（４）乾燥性
サンプル布帛（１０ｃｍ角）に水を０．２ｍｌ滴下、拡散後、布帛の重量を測定し、水分量を算出し、温度２０℃で相対湿度６５％の環境下で、布帛の水分量が２％（乾いたと感じる水分量）となるまでの時間（分）を測定した。
(4) Dryability 0.2 ml of water was dropped onto a sample fabric (10 cm square), and after diffusion, the weight of the fabric was measured to calculate the amount of water, and the fabric was measured under the environment of a temperature of 20 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65%. The time (minutes) until the water content reached 2% (the water content felt dry) was measured.
（５）吸水拡散面積
サンプル布帛を直径１５ｃｍの刺繍用用丸枠に取り付け、布帛表面に水溶性青染料溶液（Ｃ．Ｉ．アシッドブルー６２を０．００５ｗｔ％含有）を０．１ｍｌ滴下し、３分後に濡れ拡がった吸水拡散面積を次式より求める。
吸水拡散面積（ｃｍ2）＝［縦の直径（ｃｍ）×横の直径（ｃｍ）］×π÷４
サンプル毎に測定を５回行い、平均吸水拡散面積を求めた。
(5) Water-absorbing diffusion area A sample fabric is attached to a round frame for embroidery with a diameter of 15 cm, and 0.1 ml of a water-soluble blue dye solution (containing 0.005 wt% of CI Acid Blue 62) is dropped on the fabric surface. The water absorption and diffusion area that has spread after 3 minutes is obtained from the following equation.
Water absorption diffusion area (cm 2 ) = [vertical diameter (cm) × horizontal diameter (cm)] × π ÷ 4
Measurement was performed 5 times for each sample, and the average water absorption and diffusion area was determined.
（６）風合い評価
検査者（３０人）の感触によって染色品の洗濯１０回後の布帛を次の基準で相対評価した。
○ ： しなやか感がよい
△ ： しなやか感はやや劣る
× ： しなやか感がない
(6) Texture evaluation The fabric after 10 washings of the dyed goods was relatively evaluated according to the following criteria according to the touch of the inspector (30 persons).
○: supple feeling is good △: supple feeling is slightly inferior ×: no supple feeling
（７）汗アルカリ堅牢度
染色品について、ＪＩＳ−Ｌ−０８４８−Ａ法に準じて汗アルカリ人工汗液を用いて評価した。試験片の変褪色と添付白布片の汚染の程度をそれぞれ変褪色用グレースケール、汚染用グレースケールと比較して判定した。
(7) Fastness to sweat alkali The dyed product was evaluated using a sweat alkali artificial sweat according to the JIS-L-0848-A method. The change color of the test piece and the degree of contamination of the attached white cloth piece were judged by comparing with the gray scale for change color and the gray scale for contamination, respectively.
（８）色の鮮明性（彩度）
染色布帛を分光光度計（グレタグマクベス社製、形式；ＣＥ−７０００Ａ、Ｄ６５光源）にて、Ｌａｂ表色系にて、ａ、ｂ値を測定し、下記式にて彩度を算出した。この値が大きい程、彩度が高く、色が鮮明であり、値が小さい程、彩度が低く、色がくすんでいることを表す。
彩度＝√（ａ2+ｂ2）
(8) Color clarity (saturation)
The a and b values of the dyed fabric were measured with a spectrophotometer (Gretag Macbeth, model: CE-7000A, D65 light source) in the Lab color system, and the saturation was calculated according to the following formula. The larger the value, the higher the saturation and the clearer the color, and the smaller the value, the lower the saturation and the dull color.
Saturation = √ (a 2 + b 2 )
［実施例１〜３］
撚り係数（Ｋ）が１７２０（Ｓ撚り）の８４ｄｔｅｘ／４５ｆのキュプラ（旭化成せんい製ベンベルグ）を経糸に用い（経糸密度１３０本／インチ）、撚り係数（Ｋ）が１７２０（ＳＺ撚り）の８４ｄｔｅｘ／４５ｆのキュプラを緯糸に用い（緯糸密度８０本／インチ）、平織物を製織した。
得られた織物をオープンソーパー型連続精練機を用いて、３０℃の３．１５ｗｔ％水酸化ナトリウム水溶液（５°ボーメ水溶液）に浸漬した後、８０℃の湯洗及び水洗を繰り返し、脱水した後、１２０℃のシリンダー乾燥機を用いて乾燥させた。
[Examples 1 to 3]
An 84 dtex / 45f cupra (Asahi Kasei Bemberg) having a twist coefficient (K) of 1720 (S twist) is used as warp (130 warp density / warp density), and a twist coefficient (K) of 1720 (SZ twist) is 84 dtex / A plain fabric was woven using 45f cupra as the weft (weft density 80 / inch).
After the obtained woven fabric was immersed in a 3.15 wt% sodium hydroxide aqueous solution (5 ° Baume aqueous solution) at 30 ° C. using an open soap type continuous scouring machine, water washing and water washing at 80 ° C. were repeated and dehydrated. It was dried using a 120 ° C. cylinder dryer.
次にこの織物を拡布状で下記に示す酵素溶液に浸漬し、マングルで絞り、シワのでないように拡布状でロールに巻き込んだ後、シートを被せ、ゆっくり回転させながら表１に示す減量率となるように処理時間を調整し、減量処理を行った。
酵素処理条件：
酵素溶液：ｐＨ＝４．５（酢酸と酢酸ナトリウムにて調整）の水溶液にセルラーゼＴ（天野エンザイム社製、エンド＋エキソ型セルラーゼ）を１０％溶解
マングルの絞り率：７０％
処理温度：４５℃
Next, the woven fabric is immersed in the enzyme solution shown below in a woven form, squeezed with a mangle, wound into a roll in a woven form so as not to be wrinkled, and then covered with a sheet, and the weight reduction rate shown in Table 1 is rotated slowly. The treatment time was adjusted so that the weight loss treatment was performed.
Enzyme treatment conditions:
Enzyme solution: Cellulase T (manufactured by Amano Enzyme, Endo + exo cellulase) is dissolved 10% in an aqueous solution of pH = 4.5 (adjusted with acetic acid and sodium acetate).
Processing temperature: 45 ° C
処理後は、８０℃で１５分間の失活処理を行い、水洗した後、下記条件にて染色し仕上げた。
染料として、反応染料（レマゾール ターコイズ ブルー Ｇ：１．３％ｏｍｆ）を用い、水酸化ナトリウム１０ｇ／リットルを含む染料溶液に浸漬し、マングルで絞り、コールド・バッチ法にて、２５℃で１５時間エイジングを行い、次いで、オープンソーパー型連続水洗機を用いて、８０℃の湯洗及び水洗を繰り返し、脱水した後、１２０℃のシリンダー乾燥機を用いて乾燥を行い、ペーパーカレンダー処理して青色の染色布帛を得た。
After the treatment, a deactivation treatment was carried out at 80 ° C. for 15 minutes, washed with water, and then dyed and finished under the following conditions.
As a dye, a reactive dye (Remazol Turquoise Blue G: 1.3% omf) was used, soaked in a dye solution containing 10 g / l of sodium hydroxide, squeezed with a mangle, and cold batch method at 25 ° C. for 15 hours. Aging is performed, and then, using an open soap type continuous water washing machine, water washing at 80 ° C. and water washing are repeated, and after dehydration, drying is carried out using a 120 ° C. cylinder dryer, and paper calendering is performed. A dyed fabric was obtained.
仕上げた染色布帛の水滴消失時間、吸水拡散面積、乾燥性、風合、汗アルカリ堅牢度、色の鮮明性の評価結果を表１に示す。
得られた染色布帛を電子顕微鏡にて１８００倍の倍率にて観察したときの、セルロース繊維表面の筋状溝の形状を表１に示す。
Table 1 shows the evaluation results of water drop disappearance time, water absorption diffusion area, drying property, texture, fastness to sweat alkali, and color sharpness of the finished dyed fabric.
Table 1 shows the shape of the streak-like grooves on the surface of the cellulose fiber when the obtained dyed fabric was observed with an electron microscope at a magnification of 1800 times.
［比較例１、２］
比較例１として、実施例１の織物をセルロース分解酵素による処理を施さずに、実施例１と同様の条件にて染色し仕上げた。比較例２として、減量率が９．３％となるようにセルロース分解酵素による減量処理を行う以外は、実施例１と全く同様の条件で染色し仕上げた。
得られた染色品の水滴消失時間、吸水拡散面積、乾燥性、風合、汗アルカリ堅牢度、色の鮮明性の評価結果を表１に示す。比較例についても実施例１と同様に電子顕微鏡にて１８００倍の倍率にて観察したときの筋状溝の形状を表１に示す。
[Comparative Examples 1 and 2]
As Comparative Example 1, the fabric of Example 1 was dyed and finished under the same conditions as in Example 1 without being treated with cellulolytic enzyme. As Comparative Example 2, it was dyed and finished under exactly the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the weight loss treatment with cellulolytic enzyme was performed so that the weight loss rate was 9.3%.
Table 1 shows the evaluation results of water drop disappearance time, water absorption diffusion area, drying property, texture, fastness to sweat alkali, and color sharpness of the dyed product obtained. Table 1 shows the shape of the streak-like groove when the comparative example was observed with an electron microscope at a magnification of 1800 times as in Example 1.
［実施例４、５］
８４ｄｔｅｘ／４５ｆのキュプラ（旭化成せんい製ベンベルグ）を経糸に用い（経糸密度１５３本／インチ）、綿糸４０番手を緯糸に用い（緯糸密度８０本／インチ）、ツイル織物を製織した（キュプラ糸の混率は５０．４％）。
得られた織物を実施例１と同様にオープンソーパー型連続精練機を用いて、３０℃の３．１５ｗｔ％水酸化ナトリウム水溶液（５°ボーメ水溶液）に浸漬した後、８０℃の湯洗及び水洗を繰り返し、脱水した後、１２０℃のシリンダー乾燥機を用いて乾燥させた。
[Examples 4 and 5]
84 ttex / 45f cupra (Asahi Kasei Fibers Bemberg) was used as the warp (153 warps / inch), 40 cotton yarns were used as the weft (80 weft density / inch), and twill fabric was woven (mixed ratio of cupra yarn) Is 50.4%).
The obtained woven fabric was dipped in a 3.15 wt% sodium hydroxide aqueous solution (5 ° Baume aqueous solution) at 30 ° C. using an open soap type continuous scouring machine in the same manner as in Example 1, and then washed with hot water and water at 80 ° C. After repeating dehydration, it was dried using a 120 ° C. cylinder dryer.
得られた織物を実施例１と同様のやり方にて、表２に示す減量率となるように処理時間を調整し、セルロース分解酵素による減量処理を行い、８０℃で１５分間失活処理を行った後、水洗を行い、実施例１と同様のやり方にて染色仕上を行い、青色の染色布帛を得た。
仕上げた染色布帛の水滴消失時間、乾燥性、吸水拡散面積、風合、汗アルカリ堅牢度、色の鮮明性の評価結果を表２に示す。得られた染色布帛を電子顕微鏡にて１８００倍の倍率にて観察したときの、セルロース繊維表面の筋状溝の形状を表２に示す。
In the same manner as in Example 1, the treatment time of the obtained woven fabric was adjusted so that the weight loss rate shown in Table 2 was obtained, the weight loss treatment with cellulolytic enzyme was performed, and the deactivation treatment was performed at 80 ° C. for 15 minutes. After that, washing with water was performed, and dyeing finish was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a blue dyed fabric.
Table 2 shows the evaluation results of water drop disappearance time, drying property, water absorption and diffusion area, texture, fastness to sweat alkali, and color sharpness of the finished dyed fabric. Table 2 shows the shape of the streak-like grooves on the surface of the cellulose fiber when the obtained dyed fabric was observed with an electron microscope at a magnification of 1800 times.
［比較例３］
比較例３として実施例４の織物をセルロース分解酵素による減量処理を施さずに同様の条件にて染色し仕上げた。仕上げた染色品の水滴消失時間、吸水拡散面積、乾燥性、風合、汗アルカリ堅牢度、色の鮮明性の評価結果を表２に示す。
[Comparative Example 3]
As Comparative Example 3, the fabric of Example 4 was dyed and finished under the same conditions without being subjected to a weight loss treatment with a cellulolytic enzyme. Table 2 shows the evaluation results of water droplet disappearance time, water absorption diffusion area, drying property, texture, fastness to sweat alkali, and color sharpness of the finished dyed product.
［実施例６、７］
実施例４と同様の織物を用い、オープンソーパー型連続精練機を用いて、３０℃の３．１５ｗｔ％水酸化ナトリウム水溶液（５°ボーメ水溶液）に浸漬した後、８０℃の湯洗及び水洗を繰り返し、脱水した後、１２０℃のシリンダー乾燥機を用いて乾燥させた。
得られた織物を下記に示す酵素処理条件を用い、表３に示す減量率となるように液流染色機を用い処理時間を調整し、減量処理を行った。
酵素処理条件：
酵素溶液：セルラーゼＴ（天野エンザイム社製、エンド＋エキソ型セルラーゼ）８％ｏｍｆ
ｐＨ：４．５（酢酸と酢酸ナトリウムにて調整）
処理温度：４５℃
[Examples 6 and 7]
Using the same woven fabric as in Example 4, using an open soap type continuous scouring machine, immersing in a 3.15 wt% sodium hydroxide aqueous solution (5 ° Baume aqueous solution) at 30 ° C., followed by washing with water at 80 ° C. and washing with water. After repeated and dehydrated, it was dried using a 120 ° C. cylinder dryer.
Using the enzyme treatment conditions shown below, the resulting fabric was subjected to weight loss treatment by adjusting the treatment time using a liquid dyeing machine so that the weight loss rate shown in Table 3 was obtained.
Enzyme treatment conditions:
Enzyme solution: Cellulase T (manufactured by Amano Enzyme, End + Exo-type Cellulase) 8% omf
pH: 4.5 (adjusted with acetic acid and sodium acetate)
Processing temperature: 45 ° C
処理後は、８０℃で１５分間の失活処理を行い、水洗した後、下記条件にて染色した。
染色条件：
反応染料：レマゾール ターコイズ ブルー Ｇ：１．３％ｏｍｆ）
炭酸ナトリウム：１０ｇ／リットル
芒硝：３０ｇ／リットル
染色温度、時間：６０℃、６０分
染色後は、８０℃の湯洗及び水洗を繰り返し、脱水した後、１２０℃のシリンダー乾燥機を用いて乾燥を行い、ペーパーカレンダー処理して青色の染色布帛を得た。
仕上げた染色布帛の水滴消失時間、吸水拡散面積、乾燥性、風合、汗アルカリ堅牢度、色の鮮明性の評価結果を表３に示す。得られた染色布帛を電子顕微鏡にて１８００倍の倍率にて観察したときの、セルロース繊維表面の筋状溝の形状を表３に示す。
After the treatment, a deactivation treatment was performed at 80 ° C. for 15 minutes, washed with water, and then dyed under the following conditions.
Dyeing conditions:
Reactive dye: Remazole Turquoise Blue G: 1.3% omf)
Sodium carbonate: 10 g / liter Salt glass: 30 g / liter Dyeing temperature, time: 60 ° C., 60 minutes After dyeing, repeat washing with water at 80 ° C. and water, dehydrate, then dry using a 120 ° C. cylinder dryer And a paper calender treatment was performed to obtain a blue dyed fabric.
Table 3 shows the evaluation results of water drop disappearance time, water absorption diffusion area, drying property, texture, fastness to sweat alkali, and color sharpness of the finished dyed fabric. Table 3 shows the shape of the streak-like grooves on the surface of the cellulose fiber when the obtained dyed fabric was observed with an electron microscope at a magnification of 1800 times.
［比較例４］
比較例４として、セルロース分解酵素による減量処理を施さずに、実施例６および７と同様の条件にて染色し仕上げた。仕上げた染色品の水滴消失時間、吸水拡散面積、乾燥性、風合、汗アルカリ堅牢度、色の鮮明性の評価結果を表３に示す。
[Comparative Example 4]
As Comparative Example 4, it was dyed and finished under the same conditions as in Examples 6 and 7 without performing a weight loss treatment with a cellulolytic enzyme. Table 3 shows the evaluation results of water droplet disappearance time, water absorption diffusion area, drying property, texture, sweat alkali fastness, and color sharpness of the finished dyed product.
本発明の吸水速乾性織物は特にインナー分野、スポーツ衣料分野で好適に利用できる。 The water-absorbing quick-drying fabric of the present invention can be suitably used particularly in the inner field and sports apparel field.
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