WO2008012869A1 - Weftwise stretch lining cloth and method of producing the same - Google Patents

Weftwise stretch lining cloth and method of producing the same Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2008012869A1
WO2008012869A1 PCT/JP2006/314641 JP2006314641W WO2008012869A1 WO 2008012869 A1 WO2008012869 A1 WO 2008012869A1 JP 2006314641 W JP2006314641 W JP 2006314641W WO 2008012869 A1 WO2008012869 A1 WO 2008012869A1
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WO
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Prior art keywords
weft
warp
fabric
lining
yarn
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PCT/JP2006/314641
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French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Masanori Nakagawa
Ryozo Ueno
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Asahi Kasei Fibers Corporation
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material or construction of the yarn or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/08Woven fabrics characterised by the material or construction of the yarn or other warp or weft elements used using stretchable or elastic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24Viscose
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/28Cellulose esters or ethers, e.g. cellulose acetate

Abstract

To provide a stretch lining cloth having a weftwise stretchability of 8% or more without damaging slipperiness, a polyester-based continuous fiber or a cellulose-based continuous fiber having a twisting coefficient (K) of from 2000 to 15000 is employed as the warp yarn while a substantially non-twisted polyester-based continuous fiber or a cellulose-based continuous fiber is employed as the weft yarn, the individual monofilaments of the continuous fiber employed as the warp yarn are bundled together to give a round-shaped cross section of the warp yarn, and the bending hardness of the weft yarn is elevated compared with the warp yarn so that a crimping rate can be easily imparted to the weft yarn of the cloth. Owing to the above-described characteristics, the lining cloth thus obtained is comfortable with showing little stitch slippage or reduced feeling of tightness in wearing.

Description

Specification

Weft stretch lining and its manufacturing method

Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to certain weft stretch backing and their preparation.

BACKGROUND

[0002] In recent years, increased momentum to determine the wear comfort at the clothing field, began to goods that claim the stretch can be seen many. In particular stretch of the fabric is advanced to be used as the outer material, by stretching is required in secondary materials such as lining and interlining in the form of combining them UninaTsuta. Therefore, there is a commodity which gave the stretch by various methods in lining.

[0003] For example, a method in which the thread itself is used in the core yarn Supandettasu yarns extending like rubber, utilizes a covering yarn wearing sow multi filament around it is generally known. Lining obtained in this way is ground thickness feeling Ya Fukatsuki feeling Deeki instrument and, not so spread as lining for sliding becomes poor. Such as those using a solution Yoka sod twisted or twisted Ya false twisted yarn obtained by utilizing the bulkiness and crimp of the false twisting yarn can be cited as other means. Lining Fukatsuki feeling Ya roughness obtained by these methods, texturing feeling like is expressed and the quality of the lining low, it was those.

[0004] On the other hand, Patent Document 1, using a weft both non-twist yarns, more than 5%, are described backing having a weft strike column values ​​of less than 12%. Further, Patent Document 2, using Poritorimechire terephthalate yarn in the weft, 3% or more, are described backing having weft stretch of less than 30%. Patent Document 1 is intended to express the weft crimped Rukoto with soft mosquito bent weft ones (fine single yarn, flat yarn, etc.). Patent Document 2 to express Nukiku Limburg using stretch yarn in the weft. However, in these methods it is difficult to highly stretching of while maintaining the smoothness.

[0005] conventional like these, as backing having stretchability in the weft direction, elastic yarns in the weft (elastic thread, perforated twisting, etc.) those using, also used soft yarn bent weft in background non-twist equal There has been proposed. However, stretch recent outer material has been increasing as around 15% to 20%, thus, sufficiently satisfies the good slip-resistant and stretch in order to correspond to the elongation of the outer material in the previous lining, recent lining to accommodate higher stretch of Outer is no Ino is actual situation.

[0006] Patent Document 1: International Publication WO99Z31309 Pat.

Patent Document 2: JP 2001- 172843 JP

Disclosure of the Invention

Problems that the Invention is to you'll solve

An object of the present invention is to provide a lining extending weft direction and excellent wearing comfort that having a large stretch without compromising slipperiness. That is, according addition to measures when worn by controlling crimp index which is a detachable property and seam slippage resistance of the surface structure of the backing of slipperiness and stretching properties, and to provide a lining with excellent and operation followability in which it makes it possible.

[0008] A further object of the present invention, polyester filament 100% lining having the function, polyester long fibers and union lining cellulosic long fibers, and cellulosic filaments

It is to provide 100% of the lining.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0009] The present inventors to solve the above problems, the results of examining the how the enhanced weft crimp rate in the fabric that directly reflected in the weft elongation of the backing in detail, using non-twist yarns in the weft above efficiently allows the weft crimp and imparting child in the greige by applying a moderate twist in the warp, the height of the weft crimp rate in granted greige becomes a precursor, as post-E found that weft crimp rate in the fabric leading to stretch rate (scouring 'heat treatment set) is easily increased, it is the present invention has been completed. Here, the crimp ratio say, after the marked 20cm in the weft direction of the fabric of the greige and finishing products, textiles force also weft a load of 1Z10 fineness taken out, mark length between that time (L) from a value calculated by the following equation.

Crimp rate (%) = {(L- 20) Z20} X 100 (3)

That is, the present invention is as follows.

[0010] [1] twist coefficient is defined by the following formula (1) (K) is more than 2000, 15000 of the following polyester filament or cellulosic filament as a warp yarn, a polyester-based length substantially Muyo fiber維又 consists fabric made using a cellulosic long fibers in the weft, weft elongation of 8% or more, 20% or less, the dynamic friction coefficient of the surface is 0.20 or more, 0.40 or less, defined by the following formula (2) is the click Limburg index (C) is 0.007 or more, weft stretch lining, characterized in that it is 0.015 or less

K = (0. 9 XD) 0 5 XT (1)

C = product of the weft yarn crimp ratio Z {MX (D) ° 5 } (2) wherein, D is the warp fineness (dtex), T is twisting number (TZM), M is the warp density (the Z2. 54cm) means.

Here, the weft elongation and the dynamic friction coefficient means a value measured by the later-described KES (Kato Tech Co., Ltd.) method.

[0011] [2] weft elongation of the fabric is 12% or more, 20% or less above [1] weft stretch back locations described.

[0012] [3] cellulosic long fibers cupra ammonium - Umureyon long fibers, weft stretch lining of [1], wherein the viscose process rayon long fiber and refined cellulose filament.

[0013] [4] The polyester-based long fiber is polyethylene terephthalate long fibers [1] -

[3], weft stretch lining according to any deviation.

[0014] [5] after applying an aqueous alkaline solution to the fabric in the greige state, 5 to the said textile against greige width

Of [1] to [3], wherein the heat treatment at 30% of the width placed state, the production method of the weft stretch lining Zurekani described.

Effect of the invention

[0015] Lining fabric of the present invention is also excellent in compression is low movements followability when worn because it has a moderate stretch. In addition, also excellent in difficult shape retention occurs slippage. Also, excellent even in terms of field strength Rika ease of movement is easy removable for slip properties also good.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0016] is an electron micrograph of the woven fabric cross section in FIG. 1 Comparative Example 2.

Is an electron micrograph of the fabric cross-section in FIG. 2 Example 7.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

[0017] The present invention is specifically described below.

[0018] The first aspect of the present invention, twist multiplier (K) is 2000 or more, the warp 15000 following polyester filament or cellulosic filament, substantially polyester-length fiber 維又 of Muyo cellulose in that it uses the system long fibers in the weft.

[0019] When using non-twist yarns (the raw yarn) weft, weft elongation of the fabric from the substantially corresponds to the crimp ratio of the weft yarn, how whether to efficiently crimp the weft is important. The present inventors have crimp ratio of the weft yarn to be expressed in large and small post-process the weft crimp rate at greige stage Te polyester filament or cellulosic filament Nio ヽ (scouring step, heat treatment step) from various studies It was found to correlate with. In other words, the extent weft crimp rate is also of large greige, weft stretch of the final product is increased.

[0020] Therefore, as long enhance weft crimp rate of greige by some means, it is possible to the upper direction of the weft stretch ratio. The present inventors have result of various studies on the means, improved weft crimp rate of greige By giving a twist to warp, it is possible to lead to the upper direction of the weft crimp rate of the final product, i.e., reflected in the weft elongation in which it has reached the present invention found to be

[0021] If fabrics consisting of warp and weft are both non-twist yarns of long fibers (raw yarn), warp and weft yarns of the cross-sectional shape in the fabric, binding between single yarns several tens of constituting the long fiber is warp and weft yarns weak are both pressed against the mating thread flat together. In this case, the weft crimp rate of the raw machine becomes extremely low, it is not possible to achieve a high stretch even to devise how the post-process.

[0022] technical point that the weft has improved weft stretch rate than non-twisted yarn (raw yarn) Conventional even use technology in the present invention, by which I human twist Yes under specific conditions: (1) the warp yarns, are used in the warp It converges the single yarn of the long fibers, that the cross-sectional shape of the warp was easier to form crimps of wefts in that allowed to rounding, increased bending stiffness of the weft contrast warp Yu Yoi spoon (2) the warp, bend it was easy to attached a crimp in soft weft side, there is the. That is, enhanced with bending stiffness is true Enka the warps cross-sectional shape in that twisting of the specific conditions in the warp, the weft of the greige stage, succeeded in easily attached even more click Limburg, the present invention creation of weft stretch lining has become possible. Is a chromatic Yoka and yarn Tsukai a mandatory requirement of the weft of the warp, is to be described later, but the weft softness bending among the original yarn, preferably be used things,.

[0023] In order to compare the conventional fabrics and textile sectional shape used in the lining of the present invention, Figure 1 is an electron micrograph of the woven fabric cross section of Comparative Example 2 to be described later, the child conductive fabric section of Example 7 respectively photomicrographs in FIG. These pictures, respectively fabric after scouring width insertion and dried before dyeing, and cut to the warp cross-section appears, was observed with an electron microscope after metal deposition (approximately this form to the form of the final finished article King form in the greige state before scouring 'finishing also a by being) which takes these and similar forms, showing a sectional configuration and crimp form of weft yarns of the warp.

[0024] Comparing the cross-sectional shape of the warp yarn, as in Example 7 using a twisted yarn is twist multiplier (K) = 7100 will be described later in the warp, substantially near untwisted a coefficient (K) = 1050 twist in Comparative example 2 using the yarn warp, different shapes of the warp cross-section, crimp form of weft along with it also reveals that are significantly different.

[0025] Preferred twisting conditions in textile warp used in the present invention, because it changes depending on the fineness and the like of the twisting number and warps, the present invention defines a factor twist represented by the following formula (1) (K) there.

Twist multiplier (K) = (0. 9 XD ) ° - 5 XT (1)

Wherein, D is the warp fineness (dtex), T means a twisted yarn count (TZM).

[0026] The present invention in more than 2000, yarns 15000 twist multiplier in the following range (K) is characterized in that Ru is used in the warp. Although twist multiplier (K) easily if there is less than 2000 crimp than use untwisted is formed, can not Rukoto obtain sufficient stretch lining since the shape of the warp section becomes somewhat flattened.

[0027] On the other hand, if the untwisting tends generation and Fukatsuki sense of grain is Deeki to KuNatsu the twist coefficient exceeds 15000, or increased sense of sheer for fineness apparent decreases, or out firmness It is not preferable in the.

[0028] As fibers which can be used for fabric weft used in the present invention include polyester filaments or cellulose filaments to have a twist coefficient described above.

[0029] Examples of the polyester filaments used in the warp of the present invention, polyethylene terephthalate over preparative, homopolymers such as polybutylene terephthalate, polyester polymer having fiber-forming such as Poriesutenore copolymers of these polymers, et al fibers made of is used. Surface power of the slip properties and the like also fibers made of polyethylene terephthalate are preferred. Antistatic agents in the fiber, flame retardants, heat resistance modifiers, light stabilizer, there is no insert supports be additive such as titanium oxide have been added. Fiber cross-sectional shape, especially in addition to the triangular type Restricted those in the Nag round, L-type, Y-type, T-type, to the may be a polygonal form, a multi-leaf type, hollow type, flat type, amorphous type such as responsibility, S (? a.

[0030] In addition, the cellulosic long fibers used in the warp, cuprammonium rayon, Pisco over scan method rayon, poly Roh logic rayon, reproduced cellulose cellulose fiber of bamboo such as cellulose as a raw material, an organic solvent (N-methyl morpholine such as acetate fibers, such as N-oxide) spun are purified cellulose textiles Ya diacetate or triacetate Ru cited as a typical example. Slipperiness and texture of the point force also cuprammonium rayon long fiber, viscose process rayon filament, poly Roh SICK rayon long fibers are preferable.

[0031] polyester filaments used in the warp fineness of cellulosic long fibers are preferably 33 to 133 dtex ((¾6), Yori preferably 56~110 (¾6 Dearu. Fineness limited especially without being preferably 0. 5~10dtex, more preferably 0. 5~5dtex.

[0032] On the other hand, the fibers which can be used in the weft of the present invention, substantially Ru raw yarn of polyester filaments or cellulose filaments in untwisted twisted like if Re false twist is not subjected can be mentioned. These yarns are not may be or over substantially the grant and of mild interlaced over the scan in order to converge the force filament is untwisted twisted (about 10~200tZm).

[0033] As the polyester-based long fiber used in the weft of the present invention, polyethylene terephthalate over preparative, homopolymers such as polybutylene terephthalate, polyester polymer having fiber-forming such as Poriesutenore copolymers of these polymers, et al fibers made of is used. Surface power of the slip properties and the like also fibers made of polyethylene terephthalate are preferred. Antistatic agents in the fiber, flame retardants, heat resistance modifiers, light stabilizer, there is no insert supports be additive such as titanium oxide have been added.

[0034] The cellulose-based long fiber used in the weft, cuprammonium rayon, Pisco one scan method rayon, poly Roh logic rayon, regenerated cellulose fibers, the organic solvent (N-methyl morpholine N-oxide, such as cellulose bamboo as a raw material ), such as acetate fiber, such as spun are purified cellulose fibers Ya diacetate or triacetate and the like. Slipperiness and texture of the point force cuprammonium rayon long fiber, viscose process rayon long fiber, is Porino logic rayon filament preferred.

[0035] polyester long fiber used in the weft fineness of cellulosic long fibers are preferably 33 to 133 dtex ((¾6), Yori preferably 56~110 (¾6 Dearu. Fineness limited especially without being preferably 0. 5~10dtex, more preferably 0. 5~5dtex.

[0036] Fibers of the cross-sectional shape is not particularly limited, it is preferable using a soft yarn bending to efficiently express weft elongation. Single yarn fineness small V in the case of a round cross-sectional shape, i.e. single filament diameter is small, it is preferable, and a high of flatness!, It is particularly preferable to use yarn. Flat shape is not particularly limited, W type not just flat, I type, Bume run type, corrugated, skewered dumpling-type or the like, it is yarn having substantially a flat soft sectional structure bent in a specific direction particularly preferred.

[0037] warps and the combination of the weft of the material, polyester filament 100% lining, cellulose-based long fiber 100% lining, and, of polyester long fibers and cellulosic long fibers interwoven backing two, a total of four combinations are present it is no limit,.

[0038] The second feature of the present invention, 8% or more weft elongation of the fabric used for lining 20% ​​or less, the dynamic friction coefficient of the fabric surface 0.20 or more, 0.40 or less, crimp index ( C) is 0.007 or more, in terms is 0.015 or less.

[0039] In order to obtain the desired a lining with excellent suppression and wearing comfort of slipping and tightness of the seam when worn is the present invention, dynamic friction coefficient of the weft direction of elongation and lining surfaces of the lining of the It must be a woven fabric designed for a specific range. That is, the weft elongation lining of the present invention is 8% or more, 20% or less preferably instrument more preferably 10% or more, 20% or less, particularly preferably 12% or more, 20% or less. Weft elongation of the present invention the backing can be controlled 'adjusted by the twist factor (warp fineness, number Ri twist) and closeness and processing conditions (width insertion ratio).

[0040] to a conventional outer material with a weft growth of about 5% to 10%, Do not! Inhibit the weft elongation "Kise (comfort that is required to lining, the larger the lining than the size of the outer material for cut and folded lining in stitches near side, when you consider the presence or Outer shape retention possible to give clear) "lining, about 70% of the weft elongation of outer material (3.5 to 7%) in is sufficient available. However, the growth in recent Outer as described above is becoming a mainstream as around 15-20%, in order to cope with these scan Toretsuchi Outer is required more weft elongation as lining. The inventors of the present onset inventor et al went to wear test with a different lining of the weft extending in the weft growth 15% of the outer material, as the growth of the lining may feel tightness or discomfort during the operation if more than 8% it was confirmed that such ヽ. On the other hand, comfort undesirable impaired worn so because weft stretch lining is greater than 20%, the weft crimp is increased, a slip property increases the roughness of the surface decreases

[0041] Further, the order to satisfy such accordance eye Horre durability and weft is the performance required as backing, fall crimp index (C) a specific range indicated by (2) , Ru it is desirable.

Crimp index (C) = the product of the weft crimp rate Z {MX (D) 0 5 } (2)

Wherein, D is the warp fineness (dtex), M denotes a warp density (the Z inch).

[0042] Crimp index, a measure for specifying the surface structure of the backing with respect to weft elongation and the warp cover factor of the fabric. The crimp index of textile units of the present invention the backing, 0.007 or more, it is preferably in the range of 0.015 or less. If less than 0.007 or become weft growth lower weft crimp rate is 8% less than the lining, because the texture and the warp fineness or warp density is too large, too thick it is hard not desirable. On the other hand, if too few or warp density Tari pump rate of the weft yarn is too high when it exceeds 0.015, the eyes accordance or Horre for which the warp fineness is too small a fabric structure loose the weft is likely to occur unfavorable.

[0043] On the other hand, slip properties and the like comfort wear as affecting lining properties. To be satisfactory slip properties lining dynamic friction coefficient 0.20 or more, it is necessary to the range of 0.40 or less.

[0044] Although in the weft elongation and the dynamic friction coefficient in proportion also tends to increase, it does not detract from the wearing feel if 0.40 or less. 0. no properly favored as bad backing 4 exceeds the removability and feel properties. In addition, in the case of less than 0.20, for sliding with, for example, in the case that was sitting on to wear a skirt chair, etc., such as the outer material and the skin and panty strike King too good, or summer easy to shift etc. hem of the skirt , undesirable because an obstacle, such as posture is or summer easy to collapse. [0045] As lining cloth of the present invention, plain weave, twill, and the like satin. Either woven or organization to employ the use area of ​​the lining, have good appropriately determined depending on the required characteristics. For example, with respect to women's clothing, thin from the fact that soft texture is reluctant, it is preferable to be particularly flat organization of the lining. The, preferably it is in the lining of Aya organization because it is necessary to a certain degree of sense of thickness and sliding the case of men's clothing,.

[0046] Lining of the present invention can be prepared by the method described below. Preparation is the same as the method is basically as described in the cited document 1, may be performed width insertion heat treatment 5-30% after scouring before or refining the width of the greige order to process the greige. That is, by treating the width pocket in the state where the warp direction than the weft direction (the width direction) is more tension, minimizing while tissue contraction in the width direction of the fabric with increasing warp density increase of weft yarn density (weft those that can be achieved by causing the formation of Tarinpu) to.

[0047] If the weft is polyester long fibers, the present invention by performing the heat treatment of 160 ° C~210 ° C while putting 5-30% of the width for the greige width after scouring before or scouring the greige fabric it is possible to achieve the back ground. This is because the crimp of the weft formed greige in textiles, by utilizing the thermal shrinkage of the poly ester filament, made from the principles of expressing weft extending highly to form a crimp in the weft. For example, commonly used as thermal processor during processing of the fabric, Ru when the heat treatment at a pin tenter type heat setter, although a heat treatment in a state of fixing the ends of the fabric after weaving or after fine milling, the fixed-width the made narrower than the fabric width after weaving or after scouring, and may be treated in a state of being tensioned by warp direction. Here, the scouring is about E to remove such oil or warp sizing agent adhering to the fabric after weaving. The treatment liquid used in this scouring, it is an aqueous solution comprising water or a surfactant and alkali. The device, open Soper type continuous scouring machine that is commonly used in scouring the fabric, jet dyeing machine, a bath pendent continuous scouring machine, Uinsu refiner, good the like is used Seo Fusa one refiner, .

[0048] After completion of the width pocket heat treatment and scouring, dyeing is a common processing step of lining, specifications raising process is applied. In the case of the texture more soft, Do not harm even if the alkali reduction processing prior to staining,. Dyeing of polyester long fibers are pressurized E conventional method for lining applications, liquid flow type dyeing machine, jigger dyeing machine, beam dyeing machine, etc. Uinsu dyeing machine can be used. Re to adopt a processing method similar normal lining for finishing. In this finishing step, an antistatic agent as an additional finishing agents, water repellent agents, can impart such sweat agent. In addition, it luster of the fabric surface, smoothness, also be applied, such as calender treatment and embossing process in order to improve the texture.

[0049] weft polyester filaments, in the dyeing cases of union fabrics with cellulosic long fibers in the warp, placed width Firstly the same manner as described above, performs the dyeing of polyester long fiber after scouring . Then, perform the dyeing of cellulosic long fibers. In this case, may be stained with dyeing machine and Aircraft stained with Poriesu ether-based long fiber, it can also be dyed using another dyeing machine according to a cold pad bar Tutsi method or pad-steam method Ya jigger method that.

[0050] Further, the weft is the case of cellulosic long fibers, water to the fabric in the greige state, steam, after applying the Al force Li solution, in a state where said textile was put 5-15% of the width relative to the greige width I by performing the heat treatment of 100 ° C~ 210 ° C! / ,. This high degree to form a crimp made principle force to the weft extending expressed weft to make the most of the swelling effect of crimping the cellulosic long fibers of the weft yarn formed into greige fabric arising by water. If cellulosic long fibers of cellulose acetic acid, fabrics good by performing a heat treatment of 160 ° C~ 210 ° C 5 to 15% of the width put the state against the greige width before scouring. It consists principle of weft elongation expressed by made form a highly crimped weft utilizing the thermal shrinkage of the crimp and cellulose acetate fibers of the weft yarn formed into greige fabric.

[0051] To impart water to the raw weaving product before refining method capable of imparting uniform water to the fabric, For example, like dipping method Ya spraying or kiss roll process. In view of the processing cost and processing stability, the dipping method is preferred. Can be added sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide in order to further increase the swelling of cellulosic long fibers, the alkaline 匕合 product such as sodium carbonate to about lOwt%. If the heat treatment at commonly used are that a pin tenter type heat setter of a thermal processor after water application, a heat treatment in a state of fixing the ends of the fabric after weaving or after scouring. The fixed width narrower than the fabric width after weaving or after scouring, and may be treated in a state of being tensioned by warp direction. After completion of the width pocket Netsusho physical and scouring, dyeing is a common processing step of lining, finishing step is applied.

[0052] Lining of the present invention, by using a woven fabric obtained by the methods described above, carried out suitably obtained Example

[0053] Hereinafter, will be specifically described in the present invention embodiment, the present invention is not limited only to the examples. The measurement methods, evaluation methods, etc. are as follows.

[0054] (1) Evaluation of weft growth rate

Using Kato Tech Co., Ltd. KES- FBI, 20cm fabric gripping length X 20 cm (L) 5 cm, a tensile speed 0. extended in 2mmZ seconds in the weft direction, elongation under stress 490NZm E ( %) was calculated by the following equation.

E (%) = (AL / L) X 100 (4)

Here delta L is the length extending under 490NZm stress (cm).

[0055] (2) Evaluation of the dynamic friction coefficient

Using KES- SE force Totekku Co., friction surface dimensions cotton cloth shirting No. 3 scouring up is attached to the friction element weight of 25g in LcmX 1 cm, slide over the surface of the lining fixed at a rate of 5cmZmin so, in which it calculated the dynamic friction coefficient () by the following equation from the frictional resistance force at that time. The average value of the frictional resistance force A is that is posted on the measuring instrument in the formula (gf), B represents the weight of Masatsuko (g), respectively. Incidentally, the friction coefficient was dynamic friction coefficient of the average lining value when sliding on the values ​​and the weft direction Suberashi the warp direction of the backing.

Dynamic friction coefficient () = AZB (5)

(3) weft crimp ratio in the fabric

Textile (greige textile after finishing, lining products) weft crimp rate in, after marking of 20cm in the weft direction of the fabric, a load of 1Z10 fineness weft taken out by disassembling the fabric, its It was calculated by the following equation by measuring the mark length between L (cm) of the time.

Crimp ratio of the weft yarn (%) = {(1 ^ - 20) 720} 100 (3)

(4) seam slippage

It was measured in accordance with JIS- L- 1096 method (B method). Was measured in the weft direction slippage (deviation amount of the warp on the weft the weft occurs to slippage) so easy, stress is applied in the weft direction when worn. Warp direction 10 cm (width), folded in half the length of the piece of weft direction 17cm (length), and sewing the at seam allowance lc m (needle No. 11, No. 50 polyester yarn yarn, 5 stitches ZCM), cutting the fold did. Applying a load of the constant force in a tensile test this piece (5kgZ2. 54cm), a 0. 5 kg / 2. Stitch deviation amount at that time a load of 54cm after 1 hour under no load was seam slippage amount. The value was calculated by the average value of n = 3.

[0056] Hereinafter, Examples 1 to 5, in the comparative example 1, discloses examples of cases using polyester filament warp.

[0057] Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate filaments of 56dtexZ24f the twist multiplier (K) Power 260 in the warp (Antistatic yarn sheath-core structure), the cross-sectional shape in the weft W-type was 56dtexZ30f polyethyleneterephthalate phthalate long fibers (the major axis to the minor axis length of the ratio is about 3:.. 1) using a non-twisted yarn, the warp density 12 two Z2 54cm, weft density 99 present Z2 was woven flat fabric 54cm.

[0058] By this greige pin tenter, the width in of 15% was performed on greige fabric width under the conditions of 190 ° CX ​​30 seconds. Then using a continuous scouring machine of open source par type, 90 ° C water acid sodium 5gZl and Roh - after scouring in a bath containing an on-based surfactant 2GZl, washed with warm water (80 ° C), dehydrated and dried (120 ° C) was. Subsequently, Mizusani匕 sodium 125 g Zl by the pad-steam method, Neoreto NA30: impregnating a (Nicca Chemical Co. alkyl phosphate-based penetrating agent LOG / 1) the including the treatment liquid-Shiboeki (aperture ratio 40 wt%) and performs a continuous alkali weight loss Te, was neutralized • washed with hot water and dried in a conventional manner. Staining using a liquid flow dyeing machine, a disperse dye (C. I DISPERSE B LUE 291: l% owf) and disper TL (Meisei Chemical Co.,: Tamol type dispersant lg / 1) and the PH adjusting agent (acid: 0 .. 5ccZD force also stained 130 ° CX ​​30 minutes becomes a bath, then reduction clearing through to obtain a dyed fabric force mow fabrics NK guard FGN800 (Nicca Chemical Co., Ltd., a fluorine-based water repellent: LWT%) and Miyuuron AS222 (Miyoshi oil & fat Co., cationic antistatic agent: LWT%) with or Ranaru aqueous pad dry cure method (pre-dried 100 ° CX ​​1 minute, the dried 180 ° CX ​​30 seconds) fabric finished with shown in Table 1. physical properties results obtained lining using.

[0059] Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate filaments of 56dtexZ24f the twist multiplier (K) Power 260 in the warp (Antistatic yarn sheath-core structure), the cross-sectional shape in the weft W-type was 84dtexZ30f polyethyleneterephthalate phthalate long fibers (the major axis to the minor axis length of the ratio is about 3: with 1) non-twisted yarn, warp density 11

Seven Z2. 54cm, weft density 80 present Z2. Was woven flat fabric 54cm.

[0060] By this greige pin tenter was 18% width insertion against greige fabric width under the conditions of 195 ° CX ​​30 seconds. Scouring - Continuous caustic, dyeing, finishing got lining performed in the same manner as in Example 1. The physical properties results are shown in Table 1.

[0061] Example 3

Polyethylene terephthalate filaments of 56dtexZ24f coefficient (K) is 7100 twisted warp (Antistatic yarn sheath-core structure), using a non-twisted 84dtexZ70f polyethylene terephthalate length textiles round cross-section in weft, warp density 120 present Z2. 54cm, weft density 82 present Z2. was woven flat fabric 54cm.

[0062] By this greige pin tenter was 16% width insertion against greige fabric width under the conditions of 190 ° CX ​​30 seconds. Scouring, caustic, dyeing, finishing got lining performed in the same manner as in Example 1. The physical properties results are shown in Table 1.

[0063] Example 4

Polyethylene terephthalate filaments of 56dtexZ24f coefficient (K) is 7100 twisted warp (Antistatic yarn sheath-core structure), cupra ammonium of 84dtexZ45f weft -. Using Umureyon filament, warp density 120 present Z2 54cm, weft density 85 this Z2. was weaving a flat fabric of 54cm.

[0064] This was dipped for about 5 seconds in water of 25 ° C the greige at after continuously pin tenter that the aperture ratio of 48% by draining machine, a 14% relative to the fabric width after weaving width put was carried out under the conditions of a 170 ° CX ​​30 seconds. Scouring similarly using open source par type continuous scouring machine as in Example 1 row ivy. Staining was performed for 60 minutes at 130 ° C using a jet dyeing machine. Dyeing conditions are liquor ratio 1:. 20, the bath PH5 5, Agents disperse dyes (C. I DISPERSE BLUE 291: l% owf), direct dyes (C. I DIRECT BLUE 291: l% owf), disper TL (Meisei chemical Co., Tamol type dispersant: LgZD, in finishing the Paddodo Raikyua method using sodium sulfate 50GZl, Sumitex resin NF-? 500K (manufactured by Sumitomo chemical Co., non-formalin type 榭 fat:. 5 wt%), SUMITEX ACC X- 110 (manufactured by Sumitomo chemical Co., metal salt catalysts: 1. 5 wt%), far cry MS- IF (Nicca chemical Co., methylol amide softener: LWT%) using a de Ibb. - after-up, a heat treatment for predrying (100 ° CX ​​1 minute) crosslinked (160 ° CX ​​90 seconds) are shown in Table 1 the physical properties results give the lining..

[0065] Example 5

Except for using polyethylene terephthalate length textiles of 84dtexZ36f round cross-section in the weft in Example 3, to give the lining performed in all the same manner as in Example 2. Table of physical properties result

It is shown in 1.

[0066] [Comparative Example 1]

Warp of Example 1 except non-twist Tsukai polyethylene terephthalate long fibers 56DtexZ24f (Antistatic yarn sheath-core structure), to give the lining performed in all the same manner as in Example 1. Table 1 shows the object results.

[0067] The following examples 6-13, in the comparative example 2-4, disclose examples in the case of using the cellulose-based filament in the warp.

[0068] [Examples 6-8]

Coefficient twisted warp yarn (K) is 2100 (Example 6) and 4260 (Example 7) and 7100 56 dtexZ30f Cupra ammonia (Example 8) - Umureyon long fibers, the 56dtexZ45f weft cupra ammonium - the Umureyon filament using non-twist yarns, warp density 136 present Z2. 54cm, weft density 103 present Z2. was woven flat fabric 54cm.

[0069] 3. 15wt% Mizusani匕 sodium of the greige using open source one per type continuous scouring machine to carry out approximately 12% the width pocket against the fabric width after weaving, 30 ° C was immersed in an aqueous solution (5 ° Baume) was washed with warm water (80 ° C), washed with water repeatedly dehydrated and dried (120 ° C). Substantive width insertion rate is higher as the twist factor increases Natsuta (Example 6 9.5% Example 7 10.2% Example 8 11. 2%) o staining cold batch It was carried out 15 hours = 25 ° C in by law. Bulle sulfone type reactive dyes to dye: the (SUMIFIX NAVY BLUE GS l% ow f), was used Mizusani匕 sodium LOgZl. Subsequent finishing is performed quasi-Ji in the formulation of Example 4, to obtain a lining. However, 榭脂 the catalyst concentration was used 2 times. The physical properties results are shown in Table 2.

[0070] [Comparative Examples 2-3]

Coefficient (K) is 1060 twisted warp (Comparative Example 2) and 16300 of 56dtexZ30f (Comparative Example 3) key Yupuraanmo - using a non-twisted Umure fourteen long fibers, - Umureyon filaments, cupra ammonium of 56dtexZ45f weft warp density 136 present Z2. 54cm, weft density 103 present Z2. was woven flat fabric 54cm.

Put scouring 'width in accordance of the greige the method of Example 6, staining, performs a finishing process to obtain a lining. The physical properties results are shown in Table 2.

[0071] Example 9

Cupra ammonia in 66dtexZ36f coefficients twisted warp yarn (K) is 14100 - Umureyon long fibers SSZZ2 present alternately used, in using, cupra ammonium of 84dtexZ45f weft - using Umure fourteen long fibers, warp density 118 present Z2. 54cm, weft density 83 present Z2. was woven flat fabric 54cm. Put scouring-width in accordance of the greige the method of Example 6, staining, performs a finishing process to obtain a lining. The physical properties results are shown in Table 2.

[0072] Example 10

Cupra ammonia in 84dtexZ45f coefficients twisted warp yarn (K) is 14200 -! SSZZ2 present alternately using the Umureyon long fibers, in use, cupra ammonium of 84dtexZ45f weft - using a non-twisted Umure fourteen long fibers, warp density 113 this Z2. 54cm, weft density of 72 Z2.

It was weaving a flat fabric of 54cm. Put scouring 'width in accordance of the greige the method of Example 6, staining

, It performs a finishing process to obtain a lining. The physical properties results are shown in Table 3.

[0073] Comparative Example 4

Cupra ammonia warp of Example 10 84DtexZ45f - except untwisted use physicians Umureyon long fibers, to obtain a lining performed in the same manner as in Example 10. It shows the physical properties of the results in Table 3.

[0074] Example 11

Cupra ammonia in 56dtexZ30f coefficients twisted warp yarn (K) is 7100 - Umureyon length textiles, cross-sectional shape weft W-type was 84dtexZ30f polyethylene terephthalate filaments (ratio of the length of the major axis to the minor axis is about 3: 1) using a non-twisted yarn, the warp density 136 present Z2. 54cm, weft density 85 present Z2. was woven flat fabric 54cm.

[0075] By this greige pin tenter was 12% width insertion against greige fabric width under the conditions of 190 ° CX ​​30 seconds. Scouring was performed similarly using open source par type continuous scouring machine as in Example 1. Staining was performed for 60 minutes at 130 ° C using a jet dyeing machine. Dyeing conditions are liquor ratio 1:. 20, the bath PH5 5, Agents disperse dyes (C. I DISPERSE BLUE 291: l% owf), a direct dye (C. I DIRECT BLUE 291: l% owf), disper TL ( Meisei chemical Co., Tamol type dispersant: LgZD, in finishing the Paddodo Raikyua method using sodium sulfate 50GZl, Sumitex resin NF-? 500K. (Sumitomo chemical Co., Ltd., non-formalin type 榭 fat: 5 wt%), Sumi Tex ACC X- 110 (manufactured by Sumitomo chemical Co., metal salt catalysts: 1. 5 wt%), far cry MS- IF (Nicca chemical Co., methylol amide softener: LWT%) using a de Ibb -. after-up, a heat treatment for predrying (100 ° CX ​​1 minute) crosslinked (160 ° CX ​​90 seconds) are shown in Table 3. physical properties results obtained lining.

[0076] Example 12

Viscose process rayon long fibers 84dtexZ33f coefficients twisted warp yarn (K) is 5200, using a non-twisted Pisukosu method Reyon long fibers 110dtexZ44f weft, warp density 136 present Z2. 54cm, weft density 71 present Z2. 54cm the twill was weaving.

[0077] put this raw machine in accordance with the Example 6 scouring 'width, dyeing, performs a finishing process to obtain a lining. The physical properties results are shown in Table 3.

[0078] Example 13

Cupra ammonia in 56dtexZ30f coefficients twisted warp 7100 -.. Umureyon long fibers, weft using a non-twisted diacetate filament of 84DtexZ20f, warp density 136 present Z2 54cm, weft density 80 present Z2 flat fabric 54cm It was weaving.

[0079] After immersion in water of 25 ° C for about 5 seconds greige at after continuously pin Ntenta that the aperture 51% by draining machine, 10% the width pocket against the fabric width after weaving It was carried out under the conditions of 190 ° CX ​​30 seconds. Scouring was carried out in accordance with Example 1. Staining disperse dyes in the jigger dyeing method (C. I

DISPERSE BLUE 291: l% owf) and disper TL (Meisei Kagaku, Tamol type dispersant after dyed 1 hour diacetate at 95 ° C using a LgZD, direct dyes (C. I DIRECT BLUE 291: l % owf) and cupra ammonium with sodium sulfate 50GZl - dyed Umureyon finishing force 卩E the pad dry cure method, Sumitex resin NF - 500K (manufactured by Sumitomo chemical Co., non-formalin type 榭脂:. 5 wt%) , SUMITEX ACC X- 11 0 (manufactured by Sumitomo chemical Co., metal salt catalysts: 1. 5 wt%), far cry MS- IF (Nicca chemical Co., methylol amide softener: LWT%) with, dip '- after-up, showing a pre-drying (100 ° CX ​​1 minute) and physical properties result heat treated (160 ° CX ​​90 seconds) to obtain a row ,, lining for crosslinking in Table 3..

[0080] [Table 1]

[0081] [Table 2] Example 6 real 施倒 7 real 施俩 8 Example Θ Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 the warp yarn twisting number s300 s600 s 1000 s S1825 s 150 S2300

(T / m)

聽数 2100 Ξ60 71 (H) 14100 1060 16300 raw secrecy (via / weft) 136/103 136 Ί03 136/103 118/83 136/103 136/103 present, S !, 54cm

Product density (through /! *) 150X105 146/106 156/107 this / ¾, 54cm

Weft growth rate (%) 10,] 12,4 12.1 17.6 7.7

Dynamic friction coefficient 0.28 J 0.315 0.306 0.291 0.280 0.483 seam slippage resistance (nun) 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.2 0.7 0.5 stitches without problems Nashi state No problem No problem 聞題 no hidden no problem According crimp index 0, 0085 0,0103 0,0102 O .OH2 0.0068 0.0082 Remark grain feeling and Zara luck feeling there [0082] [Table 3]

Industrial Applicability

[0083] An object of the present invention is to provide a weft direction elongation of 8% or more stretch lining without impairing the sliding property, less wear of slippage and tightness of the seam when worn by a force mowing performance use one in which makes it possible to provide excellent lining to comfort. Lining of the present invention is particularly table locations stretch ratio is suitable for apparel lining 15% or more.

Claims

The scope of the claims
[1] below (1) twist coefficient is defined in (K) is 2, 000 or more, 15, 000 the following cellulosic filaments or polyester filaments in the warp, cellulosic filaments or Polje ester of untwisted becomes the system long fibers from the fabric formed by using the weft, weft elongation of 8% or more, less than 20%, the dynamic friction coefficient of the surface is 0.20 or more, 0.40 or less, crimp index defined by the following (2) (C) is 0.007 or more, weft stretch lining, characterized in that it is 0.015 or less.
K = (0. 9 XD) 0 5 XT (1)
C = product of the weft crimp rate Z {MX (D) ° 5 } (2)
Wherein, D is the warp fineness (dtex), T is twisting number (TZM), M denotes a warp density (the Z2. 54cm).
[2] the weft elongation of the fabric is 12% or more, weft stretch lining according to claim 1, wherein 20% or less.
[3] weft stretch lining according to claim 1, wherein the weft is a cellulose-based long fiber.
[4] cellulosic long fibers cupra ammonium - Umureyon long fibers, the viscose process rayon long fiber and refined cellulose filament, weft stretch lining ヽ deviation crab SL placement of claims 1 to 3 is or misalignment.
[5] polyester long fibers of claims 1 to 3 is polyethylene terephthalate long fibers
V, weft stretch lining according to any deviation.
[6] after applying an aqueous alkaline solution to the fabric in the greige state, the textile material against the greige width 5-30
Method for producing a weft stretch lining according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that a heat treatment at% of the width placed state.
PCT/JP2006/314641 2006-07-25 2006-07-25 Weftwise stretch lining cloth and method of producing the same WO2008012869A1 (en)

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PCT/JP2006/314641 WO2008012869A1 (en) 2006-07-25 2006-07-25 Weftwise stretch lining cloth and method of producing the same
CN 200680055404 CN101501258B (en) 2006-07-25 2006-07-25 Weftwise stretch lining cloth and method of producing the same
KR20087028419A KR101101452B1 (en) 2006-07-25 2006-07-25 Weftwise stretch lining cloth and method of producing the same

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JP2010018941A (en) * 2009-09-17 2010-01-28 Toray Ind Inc Cold-proof garment
JP2010261142A (en) * 2009-06-16 2010-11-18 Unif:Kk Workwear
JP2010265553A (en) * 2009-05-12 2010-11-25 Unif:Kk Trouser
JP2011001670A (en) * 2009-06-22 2011-01-06 Asahi Kasei Fibers Corp Woven fabric for lining
WO2018047718A1 (en) * 2016-09-07 2018-03-15 ヤマハ株式会社 Anisotropic strain sensor sheet and clothing

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CN101694019B (en) * 2009-09-30 2011-08-10 上海里奥纤维企业发展有限公司 Solvent method high-wet-modulus bamboo fiber and preparation method thereof
CN104256965A (en) * 2014-09-09 2015-01-07 浙江万方江森纺织科技有限公司 Inflaming retarding lining cloth

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JP2001303394A (en) * 2000-04-19 2001-10-31 Toray Ind Inc Polyester-based stretchable woven fabric
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JP2010261142A (en) * 2009-06-16 2010-11-18 Unif:Kk Workwear
JP2011001670A (en) * 2009-06-22 2011-01-06 Asahi Kasei Fibers Corp Woven fabric for lining
JP2010018941A (en) * 2009-09-17 2010-01-28 Toray Ind Inc Cold-proof garment
WO2018047718A1 (en) * 2016-09-07 2018-03-15 ヤマハ株式会社 Anisotropic strain sensor sheet and clothing

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EP2045381B1 (en) 2011-12-07 grant
KR101101452B1 (en) 2012-01-03 grant
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JPWO2008012869A1 (en) 2009-12-17 application
EP2045381A1 (en) 2009-04-08 application
CN101501258A (en) 2009-08-05 application
CN101501258B (en) 2011-07-06 grant
EP2045381A4 (en) 2010-08-11 application

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