JP2016141902A - Woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a woven fabric for clothing which is brought into direct contact with the skin, particularly, to provide a lining material which, when used as the lining material of European clothes, has an excellent balance of thinness, stretchability and slipperiness, and which can enhance the characteristics of an outer material and improve the wearing comfort of the European clothes.SOLUTION: A composite yarn comprising a polyurethane elastic fiber and a cellulosic fiber is arranged as a weft yarn, thereby imparting soft stretchability while suppressing the structural crimp of the weft yarn to improve slipperiness.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

  [Technical Field] The present invention relates to a woven fabric that is smooth and soft to the touch, that follows the movement at the time of wearing, is comfortable at the time of attachment and detachment, and that does not interfere with operation.

  Shirts, clothes lining, underdresses, camisole, petticoats, etc. that may come into direct contact with the skin are smooth and comfortable when attached and removed and when wearing. Those are preferred. In recent years, with the trend toward tighter clothes, outer fabrics with high stretch properties have become mainstream, and in order to follow the lining of clothing, those with stretch properties have been developed.

  So far, it has been disclosed a lining that has been imparted with a slight stretch of 5 to 12% by a tissue crimp applied to the weft and its manufacturing method (Patent Document 1), but with a stretch rate of about 5 to 12% It is impossible to follow tight clothes using a highly stretchable outer material, and the slipping and tearing of the seams and the pressure at the time of wearing cannot be resolved. Moreover, the lining which raised the crimp of the weft to 12 to 20% by giving twist to a warp, and making warp into the shape close | similar to a perfect circle, and its manufacturing method are disclosed (patent document 2). Increasing the weft crimp tends to fray the weft, and in order to eliminate the fray, it is necessary to increase the contact point between the warp and the weft, that is, to increase the density of the warp. When the density of the warp is increased, the lining becomes thick and hard, and when it is finally made into clothes, there are problems such that the lining does not follow the outer surface and is thick and difficult to move. In addition, the above two linings have a structure in which the wefts are easy to float because the crimp of the wefts is large relative to the warp yarns, so shear shear is likely to occur, and there are problems in handling such as ease of cutting and ease of sewing there were.

  Also disclosed is a technique for imparting stretch properties to the lining by using two types of polyester polymers with different intrinsic viscosities bonded side-by-side to obtain crimpability by the strain difference generated after stretching. (Patent Document 3). However, the stretch properties obtained by crimping polyester-based yarns are difficult to stretch in comparison with the stretch properties derived from rubber elasticity of yarns containing polyurethane elastic fibers, and the limit elongation is low, making them difficult to stretch during operation. There are also problems in the sewing process, such as being able to follow when wearing large movements, and not being effective in heat setting. Further, in addition to imparting elongation by tissue crimping as in Patent Documents 1 and 2, it is a crimp by fine crimping due to the difference in heat shrinkage behavior of the two polyester polymers, so that it touches the warp direction. The slipperiness becomes poor due to fine crimps. Therefore, there has never been a woven fabric, particularly a lining, that is thin, has good slipperiness and texture, is soft and stretchable, has excellent follow-up performance when worn, and satisfies consumption performance and handleability.

International Publication No. 99/31309 International Publication No. 2008/012869 Japanese Patent No. 3575395

  The present invention is a woven fabric that is thin and has high stretch properties, hardly undergoes shear deformation, and has the slipperiness, moisture absorption and release properties, antistatic properties, and anti-slip prevention properties necessary for the lining, and directly on the skin. Providing woven fabric for clothing, especially when used as a lining for clothes, it has a good balance of thinness, stretchability and slipperiness, attracts the characteristics of the outer material, and enhances the comfort as clothes It is to provide a lining that can be done.

  In order to solve the problem of providing a fabric that is thin and stretchable and has a good slipperiness, moisture absorption and desorption properties, and antistatic properties that are essential during wearing operation, and that is excellent in comfort and consumption performance. As a result of intensive studies, it is important to provide a composite stretch of polyurethane elastic fiber and cellulosic fiber to the weft, and to impart soft stretch properties while suppressing slippage by suppressing the weft fabric crimp. As a result, they have reached the present invention.

  That is, the present invention is as follows.

Claim 1 according to the present invention is a woven fabric using cellulosic fibers and / or synthetic fibers as warps and composite yarns composed of polyurethane elastic fibers and cellulosic fibers as wefts, and the following formula (1): 40 ≦ Cover factor of warp / Stretch rate ≦ 65 (1)
It is the said woven fabric characterized by satisfy | filling.

Further, claim 2 according to the present invention is the following equation (2):
3.5 ≦ thickness / stretch ratio ≦ 8.0 (2)
The woven fabric according to claim 1, further satisfying

  A third aspect of the present invention is the woven fabric according to the first or second aspect, wherein the cellulosic fibers of the warp and / or the weft are long fiber yarns.

  A fourth aspect of the present invention is the woven fabric according to any one of the first to third aspects, wherein the weft is a composite yarn in which polyurethane elastic fibers are covered with cellulosic fibers.

  The fabric of the present invention is thin, smooth and soft to the touch, follows the stretch of the skin, is comfortable when directly touching the skin, and also uses the characteristics and design of the outer material when used as a lining for clothes. Along with the outer surface, it does not interfere with operation, is excellent in sweat treatment, is less prone to static electricity, and can provide a comfortable clothing environment. Furthermore, it is excellent in consumption performance, cutting, and sewing process passability.

  Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.

  Cellulosic fibers and / or synthetic fibers are used for the warp on the loom of the fabric of the present invention. Either long fibers or short fibers may be used, but long fiber yarns are preferred in order to improve smoothness and slipperiness. Cellulosic long fibers are preferred in order to improve moisture absorption / release properties and antistatic properties. The warp may be an original yarn or a yarn that has been previously twisted or crimped by heat.

  For the weft, a composite yarn made of polyurethane elastic fiber and cellulosic fiber is used. For the composite of polyurethane elastic fiber and cellulosic fiber, if the cellulosic fiber is a long fiber, air entanglement is performed by aligning the two, and after-entanglement, the draft polyurethane elastic fiber is made of cellulosic fiber Examples thereof include a covering method, a method in which a drafted polyurethane elastic fiber is directly twisted with a cellulosic fiber, and a method in which the drafted polyurethane elastic fiber is twisted with a cellulosic fiber and then twisted. Among them, the method of covering the drafted polyurethane elastic fiber with cellulosic fiber is preferable. The reason for this is that after the cellulosic fibers and synthetic fibers used for warp and weft are dyed, the undyed polyurethane fibers can be prevented from being exposed (oriented). In order to suppress the exposure of undyed polyurethane elastic fibers, the setting of the number of times of covering is important. About this, although what is necessary is just to select suitably by the fineness of a polyurethane elastic fiber and a cellulosic fiber, generally the frequency | count of 500 t / m-1500 t / m is preferable. Note that t is an abbreviation for twist, and t / m indicates the set number of coverings of the sheath yarn per 1 m of the core yarn.

  When the weft yarn is a short fiber, a composite yarn is obtained from a core spun yarn having a polyurethane elastic fiber in the inner layer and a cellulose short fiber in the outer layer by fine spinning and twisting technology. Can be used.

  Preferred examples of cellulosic fibers used for warp and / or weft include cotton, cupra, viscose rayon, polynosic rayon, refined rayon, and high-strength rayon. The acetate type which is a semi-synthetic fiber may be used. When the cellulosic fiber is a short fiber, it may be a composite of two or more of the above.

  The type of synthetic fiber used for the warp is not particularly limited in the present invention, and known polyester fibers and polyamide fibers can be used. Acetate fibers that are semi-synthetic fibers may be used.

  As a mixing ratio of the woven fabric, it is preferable that 40% or more of cellulose fibers are mixed. Furthermore, regenerated cellulose fibers belonging to cellulose type II and having high moisture absorption / release properties are more preferred. The reason is that the regenerated cellulose fiber has a very high moisture absorption / release speed, absorbs insensitive moisture from the skin, and releases it to the outer layer, thereby controlling the temperature and humidity in the vicinity of the skin. This humidity control function is realized when the mixing ratio of the cellulose fibers is 40% or more, and the effect can be greatly exerted when the mixing ratio is 50% or more. By mixing 40% or more, not only the humidity control function but also the antistatic property can be obtained at the same time.

In order to obtain the fabric and stretch properties of the present invention, not only simply placing a composite yarn of polyurethane elastic fiber and cellulosic fiber on the weft, but also to improve the wearing comfort, thin, soft, slippery It is important to improve. Specifically, it is necessary that the cover factor composed of the warp thickness and the warp density on the loom and the stretch rate satisfy the relationship represented by the following formula (1).
40 ≦ Cover factor of warp / Stretch ratio ≦ 65 (1)
here,
Cover factor of warp; warp thickness (dt) ^0.5 x number of warps / inch
Stretch rate: KES-FB Latitudinal direction EMT (%)

  There are two conventional techniques for imparting stretch properties in the weft direction in thin fabrics (particularly lining). The first is a technique (patent documents 1 and 2) for imparting tissue stretch by crimping to the weft by inserting a living machine, but the tissue stretch is slightly increased (in the manufacturing process, the stretch rate is 10). % Is the limit.) However, there is a drawback that the weft with the crimp floats and is easily frayed. The fraying affects the clothes sewing process and the consumption performance after sewing. In order to suppress this, it is necessary to increase the contact point of the warp / weft, which inevitably increases the warp density. In other words, the warp density must be increased even though only a few stretch properties can be obtained. When the warp density is increased, the fabric has a hard texture. In this case, if it applies to Formula (1), it will be a high numerical value of 100-150. If it is less than 40, the warp density is too small and not only is easy to fray, but also there are no consumption properties such as tearing and abrasion.

  The second is a technique using a PET-based stretch lining represented by Patent Document 3 for wefts. This woven fabric can impart stretch properties (about 10 to 20%) due to weft crimping or retardation, but crimped yarns lack convergence, tend to fall apart and are not easily constrained by warp yarns. Therefore, in order to suppress the aforementioned fraying of the weft, the warp density must be increased. When a PET-type crimped yarn is arranged on the weft and the warp density is further increased, the fabric becomes harder, thicker and slippery. In this case, if it applies to Formula (1), it will be a high numerical value of 70-90.

On the other hand, when the yarn of the present invention in which a polyurethane elastic fiber is combined with the weft is used, the tension of the weft is high, so that the adhesion with the warp is very high. Therefore, even if the warp density is not increased, it is difficult to fray and the wefts are converged, so that a woven fabric that is thin and has good stretch properties with good slippage can be obtained.
From the above, it can be seen that the structure of the present invention is different from that of the conventional woven fabric, and a design suitability value of 40 or more and 65 or less is obtained by the equation (1).
KES-FB represents the name of a device developed by Kato Tech for measuring physical properties of fabrics. EMT refers to the stretch rate when a load of 500 gf is applied per cm width of the fabric (actually, the fabric sample is measured by cutting to 20 cm × 20 cm, and thus a 10 kgf load is applied).

  As a method for enhancing stretchability in the weft direction, since the elongation by the conventional method using the tissue crimp is insufficient, a method of arranging a highly stretchable yarn for the weft is required. The yarn having a high stretch property herein refers to a cellulosic fiber including a polyurethane elastic fiber, preferably a composite with the polyurethane elastic fiber, or covering the polyurethane elastic fiber. In this weft yarn, the tension due to the stretch property of polyurethane elastic fiber works in the yarn length direction (weft direction), so it can restrain the warp effectively, the fabric structure is thin, the warp fineness is thin, the density is not increased Can be designed and the texture can be softened. When a polyester-based crimped yarn as described in Patent Document 3 is used as the weft, although there is a certain degree of stretchability due to the phase difference, the yarn itself has crimps and crimps, so that it is rough. The thickness increases and the texture becomes worse. Furthermore, the yarn tension that restrains the warp is insufficient, and the fraying of the wefts cannot be stopped. As a result, in order to stop fraying of the wefts, it is necessary to increase the number of contact points with the warp yarns. Specifically, the number of warp yarns is increased, which is thicker and worse.

  The standard is formula 1, and if formula 1 is 65 or less, the stretch rate that does not hinder the operability at the time of wearing, thinness, good sliding, and good comfort that combines good texture Become woven. When the cover factor of the warp is less than 1000, shear slippage tends to occur and consumption performance as a lining cannot be satisfied. If it exceeds 1400, the texture tends to be hard, so it is 1000 or more and 1400 or less, more preferably 1000 or more and 1300 or less. The stretch rate targeted by the present invention is 15% or more and 30% or less, more preferably 18% or more and 25% or less. Therefore, the value of Formula 1 may satisfy 40 or more and 65 or less, preferably 50 or more and 65 or less, and more preferably 55 or more and 60 or less. When the value of Formula 1 is less than 40, the balance between the cover factor of the warp and the stretch rate is poor, the wefts are easily frayed, and the consumption performance as a lining cannot be satisfied.

In order to finish the woven fabric thinly, when the yarn constituting the warp and the weft is a long fiber, the thickness of the warp is preferably 33 dt to 84 dt, and the cellulosic fiber of the weft is preferably 33 dt to 84 dt. Further, when used as a lining, the thickness of the warp is most preferably 33 to 56 dt, and the cellulosic fiber of the weft is most preferably 56 to 84 dt. If the warp and / or weft exceeds 84 dt, it becomes thick and the texture becomes hard. In order to improve smoothness and slipping, it is preferable that the difference in the thickness between the warp and the weft is 50 dt or less, more preferably 40 dt or less. The finer the filament, the better the texture, but it is preferable that the filament is 0.8 dt or more and 2 dt or less for compatibility with physical properties.
When the yarn constituting the warp and / or the weft is a short fiber, the thickness of the warp is 170th (equivalent to about 33 dt) to 60th (equivalent to about 84 dt), and the thickness of the cellulosic fiber of the weft is 170th (about 33 dt) to 60th (equivalent to about 84 dt) is preferable.

  In order to improve the texture, the single yarn constituting the short fiber yarn has a length of 0.8 dt or more and 2 dt or less, the fiber length is 25 mm or more, further 30 mm or more, and the number of twists of the short fiber varies depending on the yarn number. / Inch or more and 40 / inch or less are preferable. The thickness difference between the warp and the weft is preferably 50 dt or less, more preferably 40 dt or less in terms of decitex. The polyurethane elastic fiber used for the weft is preferably 15 dt or more and less than 44 dt. More preferably, it is 17 dt or more and 30 dt or less. If it is thinner than 15 dt, the stretchability may be insufficient, and the warp binding force may be weakened. Moreover, if it is thicker than 44 dt, what has a high stretch property will be obtained, but a rubber feeling will be strong and will become a hard lining. The number of filaments of the polyurethane elastic fiber to be used is not particularly limited.

  In order to further increase smoothness and slipping as a lining, it is preferable to use long fiber yarns in at least one of warp and / or weft, and cellulosic fibers, particularly cupra having a circular cross section can be selected. preferable.

  The friction coefficient MIU obtained by the KES-SE friction tester and its variation MMD are used as an index of the slipperiness and smoothness of the fabric at the time of the wearing operation, so that the wear feeling can be dealt with. When worn, the MIU in the warp and weft directions on the skin side is preferably 0.40 or less, MMD is 0.02 or less, 0.38 or less, and MMD is 0.015 or less. When the MIU in the warp direction is 0.40 or less and the MMD is 0.02 or less, and further 0.38 or less and the MMD is 0.015 or less, the sleeves and legs when worn and the foot separation is extremely good. Become. If the MIU in the weft direction is 0.40 or less and the MMD is 0.02 or less, and further 0.38 or less and the MMD is 0.015 or less, the movement in the weft direction is smooth and the skirt is worn. When you do it, it will be easier to turn it forward and turn it back and back. When the MIU is less than 0.20, it becomes paper-like, and when the MIU exceeds 0.40 and the MMD exceeds 0.02, humans feel rough and uneven, so that the preferable friction coefficient MIU is 0.20 or more and 0.00. 40 or less and MMD is 0.02 or less.

  In order to attract more ease of movement in wearing evaluation, it is preferable that the shearing property is small in addition to the stretch property. On the other hand, it is preferable that the shear property is not too small as an index for improving the handleability, for example, the ease of stretching and cutting during sewing. The reason is that the fabric is deformed and is easy to move. Therefore, in view of both, it is preferable that the mean value of the shear characteristics is 0.2 or more and 0.5 or less, and further 0.25 or more and 0.45 or less.

In particular, when the woven fabric of the present invention is used as the backing, it is preferable to satisfy the following formula 2 in view of compatibility with stretchability.
3.5 ≦ thickness / stretch ratio ≦ 8.0 (2)
here,
Thickness: Thickness meter in accordance with JIS standard (μm)
Contact pressure: 100 g / cm ²
Stretch ratio: KES-FB Weft direction EMT (%)

  As the thickness of the outer material is reduced, the lining is preferably further reduced in thickness. In this case, the thickness is preferably 160 μm, more preferably 140 μm or less. If it exceeds 160 μm, it is too thick. On the other hand, if it is less than 60 μm, it is too thin to have strength such as tearing and fraying. Therefore, the value of Formula 2 is preferably 3.5 or more and 8.0 or less, and more preferably 5.0 or more and 7.0 or less.

The basis weight of the woven fabric of the present invention is preferably 50 g / m ² or more and 100 g / m ² or less. In particular, when used as a backing, it is preferably 50 g / m ² or more and 85 g / m ² or less, more preferably 60 g / m ² or more and 80 g / m ² or less. If it exceeds 100 g / m ^{2, it} will be thick, and if it is below 50 g / m ² , it will have no physical properties.

  The dyeing process of the fabric of the present invention may be performed in the order of scouring, presetting, dyeing, and finishing, but is not limited thereto.

  For the scouring, a general open soap type spreading continuous scouring machine is preferably used. What is necessary is just to select suitably the temperature at the time of scouring in the range of 40 to 90 degreeC, and the drying temperature in the range of 80 to 150 degreeC.

  What is necessary is just to select a preset suitably in the range of 150 to 195 degreeC with a pin tenter type processing machine. The set width may be set to an optimum condition from the relationship between the width after scouring / drying and the target stretch rate.

For the dyeing, in the case of a woven fabric having a warp / latitude of 100% cellulosic fibers other than polyurethane elastic fibers, a continuous spreading method using a cold pad batch dyeing method or a pad steam dyeing method is preferred. When synthetic fibers are used for the warp, it is preferable to dye them using a jigger type dyeing machine or a beam dyeing machine before dyeing the cellulosic fibers.

  The finishing process is preferably a non-formalin resin process generally used for shrink-proofing and anti-molding processing of cellulosic fibers. In this case, in addition to the resin processing agent, a softener, a water repellent, or an anti-slip agent may be added as appropriate.

  After finishing processing, a cold paper type or hot paper type calendar treatment may be performed, and final treatment for improving the texture and slipperiness may be performed, but the dyeing processing of the fabric of the present invention is a process described above. There is no limit to the content.

  The woven fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric that is smooth and has a good touch and has a high stretchability to follow the movement during wearing, is comfortable during an attachment / detachment operation, and does not hinder the operation. In particular, it is suitably used for shirting, clothing lining, camisole, underdress, petticoat and the like that may directly touch the skin.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited only to these examples. First, the measurement method and the evaluation method used in the examples will be described.

(1) Fabric properties and fabric characteristics After storing the fabric for a whole day and night in a temperature-controlled room maintained in an environment of 20 ° C x 65% RH, the measurement was performed in the temperature-controlled room.
Warp / weft density: measured with densimeter (number per inch)
Warp cover factor: Warp thickness (dt) ^ 0.5 x Number of warps (inch)
Weight per unit area (g / m ² ): Precision electronic balance thickness (μm): Measured with a thickness meter conforming to JIS standards
For example, Peacock constant pressure thickness gauge NO. 207
Contact pressure: 100 g / cm ²
Stretch ratio: Kato Tech KES-FB Tensile properties Standard measurement
Maximum load 500 gf / cm Latitude direction EMT (%)
Measuring speed 0.2mm / sec

Friction coefficient: Kato Tech KES-SE Friction tester High sensitivity (H)
Load 25g + friction element 25g = 50gf
Movement speed 1mm / sec
A cotton standard cloth “Kanakin No. 3” is attached to the friction element.
When rubbing Kanaki No. 3 and lining (front side) in the warp direction
Friction coefficient MIU / Friction coefficient variation MMD
When rubbing Kanaki No. 3 and lining (front side) in the weft direction
Friction coefficient MIU / Friction coefficient variation MMD

Shear deformation: Kato Tech KES-FB Shear characteristics Standard measurement
Shear shear angle ± 8 degrees
Shear angle ± 5 degrees
Static load weight 200gf / cm
Average values of longitude and latitude

(2) Ladies' jackets, ladies' tight skirts and ladies' pants using a comfort test surface (weft stretch rate 21%, polyester 70%, rayon 20%, polyurethane 2%, basis weight 213 g / m ² ) No.). Each lining was made with the same size.
10 female subjects with 160cm ± 2cm and weight 50kg ± 3kg in a fitting room at 25 ℃ ± 1 ℃, 60 ± 5% RH, detachability, ease of movement during operation, feeling of stuffiness, antistatic, comprehensive To determine typical wearing comfort. The test subject was instructed to perform the following operations and answered one by one. The answers were rated on a five-point scale, and the average value was shown.
[Removability]
5: Very good detachability 4: Good 3: Not good 2: Bad 1: Very bad [Ease of movement]
5: Very easy to move 4: Easy to move 3: Neither can be said 2: Hard to move 1: Very difficult to move [feels stuffy]
5: Feeling no stuffiness, refreshing 4: Feeling almost no stuffiness, almost refreshing 3: Not at all 2: Slightly stuffy, slightly sultry 1: Easily sultry, sultry [electricity]
5: I don't feel any static electricity 4: I don't feel much static electricity 3: I can't say either 2: I feel static electricity 1: I feel very static electricity [Total wearing comfort]
5: Very comfortable 4: Comfort 3: Neither 2: Uncomfortable 1: Very uncomfortable [Jacket] (Worn prescribed cotton 95% polyurethane 5% blouse shirt)
Evaluation contents: Detachability, holding both arms, raising both hands, bending both hands, forward bending [skirt] (wear pantyhose brand name Sabrina ML)
Evaluation contents: Detachable, large crotch walking, small crotch walking, step up, sitting / standing in a chair, crouching [pants] (wear pantyhose brand name Sabrina ML)
Content of evaluation: Detachable, large crotch, small crotch, step up, sit / stand on chair, crouch down

(3) Ease of handling, sewability, and tailoring (Evaluation of lining handling (stretching, shear deformation, cutting), sewability and tailoring to three sewing partners who created the clothes samples used in (2). I let you. The answers were rated on a five-point scale, and the average value was shown.
[Handling]
5: Very easy to handle 4: Easy to handle 3: Not easy to say 2: Difficult to handle 1: Very difficult to handle [sewing properties]
5: Very easy to sew 4: Easy to sew 3: Not easy to say 2: Difficult to sew 1: Very difficult to sew [tailoring]
5: Highly tailored 4: Highly tailored 3: Unsatisfactory 2: Not tailored 1: Very poorly tailored

[Example 1]
Cupra ammonium rayon (registered trademark Bemberg, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) 56dtex / 30f is used for the warp, and cupra ammonium rayon 56dtex / 45f and 17dtex / 1f polyurethane elastic fibers (registered trademark Leuka, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) are used for the weft. Using a covering yarn, a plain woven fabric was made with an air jet loom at a weft insertion speed of 600 rpm.
(Warn density: 127 / in. Weft density: 93 / in. Loom width: 156cm)

The covering conditions for cupra ammonium rayon and polyurethane elastic fiber used for the weft were prepared under the following conditions.
Polyurethane elastic fiber draft: 2.8
Covering frequency: 800t / m
Rotation speed: 7500rpm
The obtained raw machine was put into the following steps to obtain a lining that was dyed and finished.
<Dyeing process>
Continuous scouring-preset-padsteam dyeing / soaping / drying-finishing-inspection Various properties of the lining obtained and the results of comfort inspection are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

[Example 2]
Cupra ammonium rayon (registered trademark Bemberg, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) 56 dtex / 30f is used for the warp, and cupra ammonium rayon 56 dtex / 45f and 17 dtex / 1f polyurethane elastic fibers (registered trademark Leuka, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) are used for the weft. Using this covering yarn, a twill weaving machine was prepared at a weft insertion speed of 500 rpm by an air jet loom.
(Warn density: 125 / in. Weft density: 108 / in. Loom width: 167cm)

The covering conditions for the cupra ammonium rayon and polyurethane elastic fiber used for the weft were the same as in Example 1.
The obtained raw machine was put into the same process as in Example 1 to obtain a lining that was dyed and finished. Various characteristics of the obtained lining and the results of the comfort test are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

[Example 3]
Viscose rayon 56dtex / 16f is used for the warp yarn, and viscose rayon 56dtex / 16f and 17dtex / 1f polyurethane elastic fiber (registered trademark Leuka made by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) is used for the weft yarn by an air jet loom. A plain weaving machine was created at the weft insertion speed. The properties of the obtained raw machine were as follows.
Warp density: 120 / in. Weft density: 90 / in. Loom width: 156cm

The covering conditions for the viscose rayon and the polyurethane elastic fiber were created under the same conditions as in Example 1.
The obtained raw machine was put into the same process as in Example 1 to obtain a lining that was dyed and finished. Various characteristics of the obtained lining and the results of the comfort test are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

[Example 4]
Polyethylene terephthalate fiber 56dtex / 24f is used for the warp yarn, and polyurethane elastic fiber of cupra ammonium rayon 56dtex / 45f and 17dtex / 1f is used for the weft yarn (600m) by an air jet loom using an air jet loom. A plain weaving machine was created at the weft insertion speed. The properties of the obtained raw machine were as follows.
Warp density: 120 / in. Weft density: 93 / in. Loom width: 156cm

The covering conditions for the cupra ammonium rayon and polyurethane elastic fiber used for the weft were the same as in Example 1.
The obtained raw machine was put into the same process as in Example 1 to obtain a lining that was dyed and finished. Various characteristics of the obtained lining and the results of the comfort test are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

[Example 5]
Using 56 dtex / 30f of cupra ammonium rayon (registered trademark Bemberg manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) for the warp, and 1.7 dtex × 38 mm (bemberg manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) and 17 dtex / 1f of cupra ammonium rayon for the wefts. Using a core spun yarn of polyurethane elastic fiber (registered trademark Leuka, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.), a plain woven fabric was made with an air jet loom at a weft insertion speed of 500 rpm.
(Warn density: 125 / in. Weft density: 90 / in. Loom width: 156cm)

The covering conditions for cupra ammonium rayon and polyurethane elastic fiber used for the weft were prepared under the following conditions.
Polyurethane elastic fiber draft: 2.8
Covering frequency: 800t / m
Rotation speed: 7500rpm
Total fineness of covering yarn: 64dt
The obtained raw machine was put into the same process as in Example 1 to obtain a lining that was dyed and finished. Various characteristics of the obtained lining and the results of the comfort test are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

[Example 6]
Cupra ammonium rayon (registered trademark Bemberg, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) 56 dtex / 30f is used for the warp, and cupra ammonium rayon 66 dtex / 36f and 22 dtex / 2f polyurethane elastic fibers (registered trademark Leuka, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) are used for the weft. Using a covering yarn, a plain woven fabric was made with an air jet loom at a weft insertion speed of 600 rpm.
(Warn density: 127 pieces / in. Weft density: 93 pieces / in. Loom width: 167 cm)

The covering conditions for cupra ammonium rayon and polyurethane elastic fiber used for the weft were prepared under the following conditions.
Polyurethane fiber draft: 2.8
Covering frequency: 1000t / m
Rotation speed: 7500rpm
The obtained raw machine was put into the same process as in Example 1 to obtain a lining that was dyed and finished. Various characteristics of the obtained lining and the results of the comfort test are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

[Example 7]
A cupra ammonium rayon (registered trademark Bemberg, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) 84 dtex / 45f is used as the warp, and a cupra ammonium rayon 110 dtex / 75f and 22 dtex / 2f polyurethane elastic fiber (registered trademark Leuka, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) is used as the weft. Using a covering yarn, a plain woven fabric was made with an air jet loom at a weft insertion speed of 600 rpm.
(Warn density: 104 / in. Weft density: 65 / in. Loom width: 156cm)

The covering conditions for the cupra ammonium rayon and polyurethane elastic fiber used for the weft were the same as in Example 1.
The obtained raw machine was put into the same process as in Example 1 to obtain a lining that was dyed and finished. Various characteristics of the obtained lining and the results of the comfort test are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

[Example 8]
Cupra ammonium rayon (registered trademark Bemberg manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) 56dtex / 30f is used for warp, and cupra ammonium rayon 66dtex / 36f and 17dtex / 2f polyurethane elastic fibers (registered trademark Leica manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) for wefts. Using a covering yarn, a plain woven fabric was made with an air jet loom at a weft insertion speed of 600 rpm.
(Warn density: 127 / in. Weft density: 93 / in. Loom width: 167cm)

The covering conditions for the cupra ammonium rayon and polyurethane elastic fiber used for the weft were the same as in Example 1.
The obtained raw machine was put into the same process as in Example 1 to obtain a lining that was dyed and finished. Various characteristics of the obtained lining and the results of the comfort test are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

[Comparative Example 1]
Cupra ammonium rayon (registered trademark Bemberg, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) 56 dtex / 30f is used for the warp, and cupra ammonium rayon 56 dtex / 45f and 44 dtex / 4f polyurethane elastic fiber (registered trademark Leuka, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) is used for the weft. Using a covering yarn, a plain woven fabric was made with an air jet loom at a weft insertion speed of 600 rpm.
(Warn density: 127 / in. Weft density: 87 / in. Loom width: 156cm)

The covering conditions for cupra ammonium rayon and polyurethane elastic fiber used for the weft were prepared under the following conditions.
Polyurethane fiber draft: 3.0
Covering frequency: 800t / m
Rotation speed: 7500rpm

  The obtained raw machine was put into the same process as in Example 1 to obtain a lining that was dyed and finished. Various characteristics of the obtained lining and the results of the comfort test are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

[Comparative Example 2]
Cupra ammonium rayon (registered trademark Bemberg, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) 56 dtex / 30f is used for the warp, and cupra ammonium rayon 56 dtex / 45f and 11 dtex / 1f polyurethane elastic fibers (registered trademark Leuka, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) are used for the weft. Using a covering yarn, a plain woven fabric was made with an air jet loom at a weft insertion speed of 600 rpm.
(Warn density: 127 / in. Weft density: 93 / in. Loom width: 156cm)

The covering conditions for the cupra ammonium rayon and polyurethane elastic fiber used for the weft were the same as in Example 1.
The obtained raw machine was put into the same process as in Example 1 to obtain a lining that was dyed and finished. Various characteristics of the obtained lining and the results of the comfort test are shown in Tables 1 and 2.
Using this lining and sewing clothes, it was easy to fray during cutting and difficult to handle. The finished clothes sample could not be evaluated for wearing because of problems such as the tearing of the lining during the wearing operation, the lack of stretchability and the seam breaking.

[Comparative Example 3]
A cupra ammonium rayon (registered trademark Bemberg, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) 84 dtex / 45f is used for the warp and a polyurethane elastic fiber of cupra ammonium rayon 110 dtex / 75f and 33 dtex / 2f (registered trademark Leica, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) is used for the weft. Using a covering yarn, a plain woven fabric was made with an air jet loom at a weft insertion speed of 600 rpm.
(Warn density: 104 / in. Weft density: 64 / in. Loom width: 156cm)

The covering conditions for the cupra ammonium rayon and polyurethane elastic fiber used for the weft were the same as in Example 1.
The obtained raw machine was put into the same process as in Example 1 to obtain a lining that was dyed and finished. Various characteristics of the obtained lining and the results of the comfort test are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

  The woven fabric according to the present invention is thin, has a smooth surface, has high stretch properties, and is used for clothing applications that directly touch the skin, such as shirting, clothing lining, underdress, camisole, petticoat, etc. It is suitable because of its high wearing comfort.

Claims (4)

A woven fabric having cellulosic fibers and / or synthetic fibers as warps and a composite yarn composed of polyurethane elastic fibers and cellulosic fibers as wefts, the following formula (1):
40 ≦ Cover factor of warp / Stretch ratio ≦ 65 (1)
The said woven fabric characterized by satisfy | filling. The following formula (2):
3.5 ≦ thickness / stretch ratio ≦ 8.0 (2)
The woven fabric according to claim 1, further satisfying   The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cellulosic fibers of the warp and / or weft are long fiber yarns.   The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the weft is a composite yarn in which polyurethane elastic fibers are covered with cellulosic fibers.