JPH1193031A - Stretch woven backing - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To prepare a polyester-based stretch woven backing having a good surface smoothness, feel and handling without loosening, and excellent in stretchability, by weaving a poly(trimethylene terephthalate) false-twisted yarn as the warp and/or the weft. SOLUTION: This woven backing fabric is produced by weaving a poly(trimethylene terephthalate) false-twisted yarn as warps and/or wefts, which has a total denier of 30-120 and a monofilament denier of 0.5-10. The woven fabric is suitable as a back fabric for a stretch right side fabric for producing a lady's suit, a jacket, pants, etc.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a stretch lining using polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber false-twisted yarn, which does not have a fluttering feeling and has excellent surface smoothness.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In recent years, various functions have been required for clothing materials. In particular, stretch fabrics in which 3 to 20% of polyurethane elastic yarn is combined with synthetic fibers, natural fibers, and regenerated fibers (hereinafter referred to as stretch fabric). However, many of them have appeared on the market for the purpose of improving comfort when worn. In the past, stretchable knitwear was mainly used in knitted products in fields that need to fit into the body, such as sports and innerwear. However, the rate of room for women's suits, jackets, pants, etc. Products using stretch outerwear are also gaining popularity in the product field, which has a large size.

As a lining for women's suits and jackets, a woven fabric made of polyethylene terephthalate fiber or a woven fabric made of regenerated cellulose fiber is conventionally used, but the stretch of the stretch outer material (elongation under a load of 500 g / cm) is limited. In contrast to 20 to 40% in the direction or the weft direction, the elongation of the conventionally used lining is less than 3%, so the lining hinders the elongation of the stretch surface material, and the lining without elongation during the wearing operation gives a feeling of oppression. However, there is a problem in that it is not possible to obtain an improvement in a feeling of wearing, which is an original purpose of receiving the sound. For the purpose of solving this problem, some knit linings are used, but the knit lining is inferior in surface smoothness compared to conventional woven lining, so that the slip performance, which is an important function of the lining, is hindered. Also, since the thickness is large, there is a drawback that the silhouette of the outer material is hindered.

On the other hand, a woven fabric using false twisted yarn of polyester synthetic fiber for warp and / or weft for the purpose of imparting stretchability to the lining of the woven fabric is rubbed in a 90 to 130 ° C. aqueous solution to be crimped. The lining that has been developed and imparted with stretch properties has been commercialized, but since the stretch property is given by the crushed structure of crimped yarn, the surface of the fabric is compared to the conventional polyester lining using flat yarn. It has a strong texture, is inferior in surface smoothness, has a large thickness, and has a strong feeling of flapping.

[0005] To solve these problems, Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No.
In JP-A-130363, the elongation at break is 70 to 180%.
A woven fabric using a processed yarn obtained by drawing false twisting of a partially semi-drawn polyester yarn has been proposed, but is significantly inferior in surface smoothness and treadiness compared to conventional lining using flat yarn. Met. Another drawback of the conventional stretch lining as described above is that the stretch lining using false twisted yarn has poor recoverability due to repeated elongation when worn, as compared to the stretch surface material combining polyurethane elastic yarn, If worn for a period of time, especially the parts of the skin where the skin stretches greatly, such as the elbows of the jacket and the hips of the skirt, will sag, and the back will not only impair the silhouette of the outer fabric, but also the part where the sag has occurred will affect the feeling of wearing It also had the disadvantage of becoming worse.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a polyester stretch lining which has a good surface smoothness, a texture that is free of looseness, and an excellent stretch recovery.

[0007]

As a result of various studies on the above problems, the present inventors have found that the warp and / or
Or, by using polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber as the false twisted yarn used for the weft, it was found that the surface smoothness was good, a texture with no loose feeling was obtained, and the elongation recovery was significantly improved. The invention has been completed. That is, the present invention provides a warp and / or
Alternatively, the present invention provides a lining, wherein the weft is a false twisted yarn, and the false twisted yarn is a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used in the present invention refers to a polyester fiber having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit, and the trimethylene terephthalate unit is at least about 50 mol%, preferably at least 70 mol%,
More preferably 80 mol% or more, particularly preferably 90 mol% or more.
It refers to those having mol% or more. Therefore, the total amount of the other acid component and / or glycol component as the third component is within a range of about 50 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, more preferably 20 mol% or less, and particularly preferably 10 mol% or less. And polytrimethylene terephthalate.

[0009] Polytrimethylene terephthalate is produced by combining terephthalic acid or a functional derivative thereof with trimethylene glycol or a functional derivative thereof in the presence of a catalyst under appropriate reaction conditions. In this production process, an appropriate one or two or more third components may be added to form a copolymerized polyester, or
Polytrimethylene terephthalate and other polyesters other than polytrimethylene terephthalate, such as polyester and nylon, and polytrimethylene terephthalate may be separately synthesized and then blended or composite-spun (sheath core, side-by-side, etc.).

The third components to be added include aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (oxalic acid, adipic acid, etc.), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid, etc.), aromatic dicarboxylic acids (isophthalic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, etc.). ), Aliphatic glycols (ethylene glycol, 1,2
-Propylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycols (cyclohexanediol, etc.), aromatic dioxy compounds (hydroquinone bisphenol A, etc.), aliphatic glycols containing aromatics (1,4
-Bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, etc.), polyether glycols (polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, etc.), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acids (ω
-Oxycaproic acid), aromatic oxycarboxylic acids (P
-Oxybenzoic acid, etc.). Also one or three
Compounds having more than one ester-forming functional group (such as benzoic acid or glycerin) can also be used in a range where the polymer is substantially linear.

Further, matting agents such as titanium dioxide, stabilizers such as phosphoric acid, ultraviolet absorbers such as hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, crystallization nucleating agents such as talc, lubricating agents such as aerosil, and antioxidants such as hindered phenol derivatives. Agents, flame retardants, antistatic agents, pigments, fluorescent brighteners, infrared absorbers, defoamers, and the like. In the present invention, the spinning of the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is 1500 m /
After obtaining an undrawn yarn at a winding speed of about 3 minutes, a method of twisting at about 2 to 3.5 times, a method of obtaining a semi-undrawn yarn at a winding speed of about 3000 m / min, and a spinning-drawing step A direct-coupling method directly connected, a high-speed spinning method (spin draw or spin take-up method) with a winding speed of 5000 m / min or more, and the like may be used.

The thickness and cross-sectional shape of the fiber are not particularly limited, and may be uniform or thick in the length direction.
Polygonal types such as T-type, Y-type, W-type, Yatsuha-type, flat, dog-bone type, etc., multi-leaf type, hollow type and irregular type may be used. The total denier of the fibers generally used as the backing is in the range of 30 to 120 d, preferably 50 to 100 d, and in the case of single yarn denier, it is in the range of 0.5 to 10 d, preferably 1 to 5 d. The method for obtaining the false twisted yarn of the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber described above is not particularly limited, and for example, any method of a pin type, a friction type, a nip belt type, and an air twist type may be used.

The preferred crimping properties of the false twisted yarn for obtaining a stretch lining having a good surface smoothness and a feeling without a fluttering feeling and an excellent elongation recovery property include JIS L-1090. (Method A).
Dry heat 90 ° C. × 15 minutes under a load of mg / d) The stretch ratio of the processed yarn is 170% or more and 300% or less, preferably 180% or more and 290% or less, and the stretch elastic modulus is 80% or more, preferably Is 80% or more and 90% or less. If the elongation is less than 170%, the elongation as a stretch lining will be insufficient, and if it exceeds 300%, the crimp of the processed yarn will be strong and the surface smoothness will be inferior.
It may give a strong texture with a feeling of fluttering. If the elastic modulus is less than 80%, the lining may be poor in elongation recovery.

[0014] In order to obtain a false twisted yarn having a stretchable elongation of 170% or more and 300% or less and an elasticity of elasticity of 80% or more, the processing temperature during false twisting should be in the range of 90 ° C or more and 150 ° C or less. do it. The number of false twists at the time of false twisting may be in a range usually used in processing of polyethylene terephthalate fiber, and the value of twist coefficient K calculated by the following equation is 17,600 to 29.
Preferably it is in the range of 500. T = K / (De) ^1/2 T: number of false twists, De: total denier of fiber The false twisted yarn is twisted about 100 to 1000 T / m as needed for the purpose of further improving surface smoothness. May be used as an additional twist.

The backing in which the warp and / or weft are composed of false-twisted yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is as follows. Case 1: Lining with stretch properties in both warp and weft using false twisted yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber. Case 2: Lining that is stretchable only in the weft direction using a flat yarn of polyester fiber such as polyethylene terephthalate fiber or polybutylene terephthalate fiber for the warp yarn and a false twisted yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber for the weft yarn. Case 3: A cross-woven lining that is stretchable only in the weft direction using cellulose fibers such as viscose rayon or copper ammonia rayon as the warp and false-twisted yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber as the weft.

In both cases 1 and 2, the stretch lining preferably has an elongation of 15% to 20% under a load of 500 g / cm. When the elongation is 15% or less, if the stretch of the stretch outer material is 20% or more, the lining cannot follow the elongation of the outer material at the time of wearing, and the lining gives a feeling of oppression, resulting in poorly worn clothes. Further, a stretchability of 20% or more is not only effective in reducing the feeling of pressure when wearing clothes, but is also undesirable because the surface smoothness of the present invention is poor and the backing feels strong. The lining of Case 1 is particularly preferably used as a lining for pants using a stretch surface material having a large athletic motion, and the lining of Case 2 is preferably used as a lining for jackets and skirts where emphasis is placed on surface smoothness and texture. Since the lining of the case 3 is composed of about 50% of cellulose fibers, the lining is excellent in moisture absorption / desorption performance, has a soft texture, and has a good sliding property.

The fabric structure of the lining of the present invention is not particularly limited, but includes a flat structure, a twill structure and a satin structure.
The warp and weft densities of the woven fabric are as follows:
In the case of 00 denier, the warp density is 100 to 180 yarns /
In the case of inch and weft fineness of 50 to 120 denier, the weft density may be set in the range of 60 to 130 yarns / inch according to the use of the fabric structure, the kind of clothing to be used, the gentleman or the woman, and the like. Next, a dyeing / finishing method that can preferably produce the lining of the present invention will be described. In order to provide a lining with an elongation of 15 to 20%, good surface smoothness, and a feeling of texture without stickiness, it is preferable to perform the following dyeing finish processing.

The most important thing in the dyeing finish is that the greige fabric is sufficiently relaxed for the crimping of the polytrimethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn without processing wrinkles and at least 15% to 25% of the width of the greige fabric. %, And after performing a width-inset treatment, performing width-setting and heat setting so as to obtain an elongation of 15% to 20%. It is not preferable to perform tentative heat setting so as to obtain an elongation of 15 to 20% after performing a finning treatment of 25% or more, for the surface smoothness and the feeling of stickiness. The relaxation conditions of 15% to 25% are as follows: liquid surface vibration type, submerged vibration type, submerged suspension type, jet flow type, liquid flow in 90 to 130 ° C. water or an aqueous solution containing a surfactant and an alkali. Refining and widthening are performed simultaneously using a relaxer such as a mold. Of these, a boil-off machine of liquid vibration type (manufactured by Hinecken and Metzeller), a jet-flow type softer (manufactured by Nissen), a liquid jet dyeing machine (manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho) and the like are preferably used.

Further, as a pretreatment for performing the above-mentioned relaxation treatment in an aqueous solution, a dry heat relaxer (manufactured by Wakayama Iron Works Co., Ltd.) having a strong air-beating effect under no tension may be used. Next, the dough after the width insertion obtained as described above is width-extracted using a heat setter called a pin tenter until the wrinkles disappear, and 180 to 20
Heat set at a temperature of 0 ° C. As the set width in this case, it is preferable to perform heat setting for fixing the crimps and fixing the surface smoothness that contribute to elongation by extending the width of the dough by about 2 to 5%. After that, dyeing and finishing are performed. Before dyeing, alkali reduction may be performed for the purpose of softening texture. The weight reducing machine, the dyeing machine, and the finishing machine are not particularly limited, and a machine used for processing a lining made of ordinary polyethylene terephthalate fiber may be used. During finishing, calendering may be performed to further improve the smoothness, gloss, and texture of the lining surface.

[0020]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to embodiments. In addition, the performance evaluation was performed by the following method. (1) Elongation measurement method: Throughout, 20 cm × 20 in latitude
cm sample was produced and KES- manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.
Using FB, tensile speed 0.2mm / sec, maximum load 500
The elongation under a load of 500 g / cm when elongating at / cm was measured. (2) Method for measuring surface smoothness: Using KES-SE manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., attach a kanakin No. 3 refined cotton cloth to a friction element having a friction surface dimension of 1 cm × 1 cm and a weight of 25 g. The surface of the fixed lining was slid at a speed of 5 cm / min, and the history average value of the friction coefficient MIU at that time was measured.

(3) Elongation recovery: KES- of the above (1)
Under the tensile test conditions using FB, the RT value in the weft direction was measured. (4) Feeling feeling: A sample of 50 cm in each process was prepared, and the feeling of feeling was evaluated by the touch of three panelists. A grade of 〜 to ◎ was accepted as lining. ◎: Very good feel without flapping ：: The feeling of fluttering is slightly felt, but the feel is good. Δ: Both the feeling of wearing and the feel are unsuitable as a lining. ×: Both poor feeling and soft touch

The test yarn of the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used was produced as follows. ηsp / c =
0.8 of polytrimethylene terephthalate at a spinning temperature of 2
An undrawn yarn was obtained at 65 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1200 m / min, and then a hot roll temperature of 60 ° C. and a hot plate temperature of 14
Stretching was performed at 0 ° C., at a draw ratio of 3 and at a drawing speed of 800 m / min, to obtain drawn yarns of 50d / 36f and 75d / 36f. The strong elongation of the drawn yarn was 3.0 g / d and 40%, respectively.

The 50d / 36f drawn yarn was subjected to a spindle rotation speed of 2750,000 RPM, a false twist number of 3650 T / m, and an overfeed rate of 4.1 using an LS-2 false twisting machine manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd. %, The false twisting temperature was changed as shown in Table 1 to produce false twisted yarns in the false twist directions S and Z. For the 75/36 drawn yarn, the number of false twists is 3
A false twisted yarn was produced under the same conditions as above except that the yarn was set at 300 T / m.

[0024]

[Table 1]

(Example 1) Four types of 75d / 36f SZ false twisted yarns having different false twist temperatures shown in Table 1 were used as weft yarns.
Table 2 shows a sample of four types of plain fabrics having a warp density of 98 yarns / inch × weft density of 80 yarns / inch, each of which is made of 50 d / 36f drawn yarns, and each of which is a 0.5 woven fabric. Use relax scouring under relax scouring conditions and use 20
%, And heat setting was performed under the heat setting conditions shown in Table 3. Subsequently, after dyeing under the dyeing conditions shown in Table 4, finishing was performed under the finishing processing conditions shown in Table 5, and a lining having a 16% elongation only in the weft direction was produced as a product. (Example 2) 75 d /
Five kinds of Sf false twisted yarns of 36f were used as weft yarns, and alternately, one warp yarn was used. The warp density was 98 yarns / inch. × With a density of weft density of 80 pieces / inch, plain cloth of 0.5 each × 10 kinds, processed under the same conditions as in Example 1 and
%, And a lining having an elongation of 18% in the weft direction was produced to obtain a product.

(Comparative Example 1) Polyethylene terephthalate fibers (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.) 50d / 36f and 75d / 36f drawn yarns obtained by a spin draw take-up method were produced. This 50d / 36f drawn yarn is made by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries Ltd. L
Spindle rotation speed 27.5 using S-2 false twisting machine
Under the conditions of 10,000 RPM, the number of false twists of 3650 T / m, the overfeed rate of 4.1%, and the temperature of the false twist heater at 210 ° C., false twisted yarns in the false twist directions S and Z were produced. For the 75d / 36f drawn yarn, a false twisted yarn was produced under the same conditions as above except that the number of false twists was set to 3300 T / m. The above-obtained 75d / 36f SZ false twisted yarn is alternately driven into weft yarns, and the warp yarns are drawn yarns of 50d / 36f, and the warp density is 98 yarns / inch × weft density 80 yarns / inch plain fabric. Each of the 0.5 bridges was used as a sample, and dyed and finished under the same processing conditions as in Example 1 to produce a lining having a 16% elongation only in the weft direction.

(Comparative Example 2) 75d / 36 obtained in Comparative Example 1
f SZ false twisted yarns as weft yarns and alternately driven into one warp yarn, and 50d / 36f SZ false twisted yarns alternately used as one warp yarn, 98 warp density / inch × 80 weft density / inch plain fabric After heat setting with the 0.5 band as a sample, dyeing was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1 to produce a lining with a stretch of 15% in the warp direction and 18% in the weft direction to obtain a product. Table 6 summarizes the measurement results of elongation, surface smoothness, elongation recovery, and feeling of looseness of the products obtained in Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2. As is evident from Table 6, the lining of the present invention can provide a polyester stretch lining having excellent surface smoothness and texture with no loose feeling and excellent in elongation recovery.

[0028]

[Table 2]

[0029]

[Table 3]

[0030]

[Table 4]

[0031]

[Table 5]

[0032]

[Table 6]

[0033]

As described above in detail, the lining of the present invention is a polyester stretch lining which has a good surface smoothness, a texture with no loose feeling and an excellent elongation recovery. Could be provided.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A lining characterized in that the warp and / or the weft are false twisted yarns, and the false twisted yarns are polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers.