JPH08158197A - Production of stretchable cellulosic woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To provide a method for producing a stretchable cellulosic woven fabric useful as a thin-gage woven fabric requiring the slight stretchability of about 10% such as an interlining cloth in which the economical and operating efficiencies are excellent. CONSTITUTION: This method for producing a stretchable cellulosic woven fabric comprises (a) a step for mixing and twisting a cellulosic spun yarn with at least one textured yarn selected from the group consisting of polyester and polyamide textured yarns and providing a mix twisted yarn, (b) a step for weaving the mix and twisted yarns as warp and/or weft yarns and providing a grey fabric and (c) a step for carrying out the treatment selected from the group consisting of heat and physical treatments for the grey fabric in an extended state and then relaxing the treated fabric.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing a stretchable cellulosic fabric. In particular, the present invention relates to a method for producing a stretchable cellulosic fabric that is useful as a thin fabric that requires a slight stretchability of about 10% such as an interlining.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, using a cellulosic fiber,
When manufacturing a stretchable cellulosic fabric, a cellulosic stretch yarn is used.

As a method for producing this cellulosic stretchable yarn, firstly, a polyurethane fiber such as spandex or polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) is used as a core yarn, and a cellulosic fiber is used as a sheath yarn to form a core spun yarn. There is a method of manufacturing the yarn. When the denier of the polyurethane fiber used in this method is lowered to 2.0 or less, there is a problem in that the core yarn sways in the process of drafting and a lot of operational troubles occur. Further, if the number of twists of the sheath yarn is increased beyond the number of twists of conventional yarns, there is a problem in that economic efficiency and working efficiency are lacking.

The second method is to manufacture two ply yarns by twisting together two finished yarns containing cellulosic fibers and one polyurethane yarn. Also in this method, the same problem as described above occurs.

[0005]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above problems in the prior art, and produces a stretchable cellulosic woven fabric useful as a thin woven fabric requiring slight stretchability such as interlining. The purpose is to provide a method. Furthermore, in this manufacturing method, it aims at improving economy and work efficiency.

[0006]

The method for producing a stretchable cellulosic fabric according to the present invention comprises the following steps: (a) at least selected from the group consisting of a cellulosic spun yarn, a polyester textured yarn and a polyamide textured yarn. A step of twisting with one type of processed yarn to obtain a twisted yarn; (b) a step of weaving the twisted yarn as a warp and / or a weft to obtain a greige; (c) spreading to the greige In that state, a step of performing a treatment selected from the group consisting of heat treatment and physical treatment, and then relaxing is included, whereby the above object is achieved.

As described above, according to the present invention, the raw fabric woven using the twisted yarn obtained by twisting the cellulosic spun yarn and the processed yarn is subjected to a treatment selected from the group consisting of heat treatment and physical treatment. Relax after applying. Therefore, the processed yarn used is crimped, torque is developed, and a contracting force is exerted, and the interlaced cellulosic spun yarn is also physically contracted. From this physical shrinkage, the shrinkage difference obtained by subtracting the shrinkage of the original cellulose-based spun yarn due to the non-restoring hot water becomes the length of elongation of the cellulose-based spun yarn. The extending length of the cellulosic spun yarn contributes to the extending and recovering length of the resulting stretchable cellulosic fabric.

The method for producing the stretchable cellulosic fabric of the present invention will be described in detail below.

The cellulose-based spun yarn used in the present invention includes natural cellulose (cotton, hemp, etc.) and regenerated cellulose.
(Cellulose spun yarn obtained by spinning at least one fiber selected from the group consisting of viscose rayon, cupra etc.) and cellulosic semi-synthetic fiber (acetate, triacetate etc.) can be used, and preferably cotton spun yarn Can be used. And this cellulosic spun yarn,
Usually, it has a count of 1's to 200's, but it is preferable to have a count of 30's or more from the viewpoint of strength of the obtained woven fabric.

The textured yarn used in the present invention is at least one textured yarn selected from the group consisting of polyester textured yarn and polyamide textured yarn. Examples of the polyester processed yarn include a polyester processed yarn obtained by subjecting polyethylene terephthalate to processing such as false twisting. As the polyamide processed yarn, for example, nylon 6
Examples thereof include a polyamide-processed yarn obtained by processing false twisting and the like, and nylon 66 processed by false twisting and the like. The thickness of the processed yarn is preferably 2 times or more and 10 times or less, and more preferably 2 times or more and 6 times or less that of the above cellulose-based spun yarn in view of the texture and appearance of the obtained woven fabric.

In the present invention, the cellulosic spun yarn and at least one type of textured yarn selected from the group consisting of polyester textured yarn and polyamide textured yarn are used in a twisting machine such as a double twister or a ring twisting machine. The twisted yarn is obtained by twisting.

Here, the cross-twisting direction in which the above-mentioned cellulosic spun yarn and at least one type of textured yarn selected from the group consisting of polyester textured yarn and polyamide textured yarn are twisted is determined by the stretchability of the obtained mixed twisted yarn. From the viewpoint, it is preferable that the twist direction is the opposite direction (usually the Z direction) of the cellulosic spun yarn to be used, and in this case, the twist stop set is not required and the working efficiency is further improved. The number of twists is 3% or more and 80% or less of the number of twists of the cellulosic spun yarn to be used, and it is preferable that the number of twists is 5% or more and 60% or less from the viewpoint of stretchability of the obtained twisted yarn.

The intertwisted yarn thus obtained is used as a warp yarn and / or a weft yarn, and is woven using an ordinary weaving machine to obtain a raw fabric.

The greige fabric thus obtained is subjected to a treatment selected from the group consisting of heat treatment and physical treatment in a spread state, and then relaxed. To carry out this treatment, existing continuous spreading relaxers, jet dyeing machines and the like can be used. By using these processing machines,
The above treatment can be performed simultaneously with spreading or dyeing without further providing a new device, which is preferable not only in terms of work efficiency but also in economic efficiency. However,
Since the greige machine uses a twisted yarn of a cellulosic spun yarn and a textured yarn, it requires double bath dyeing for uniform dyeing, and when producing a woven fabric that does not require dyeing, the stretchable cellulose of the present invention is used. The manufacturing method of the textile fabric becomes more efficient.

As described above, 5% or more and 20% or less,
In particular, a stretchable cellulosic fabric having a stretchability of about 10% is obtained.

[0016]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described below with reference to examples.

(Example 1) 30's count cotton yarn and 30 denier polyester processed yarn were twisted under the conditions shown in Table 1, and the crimp recovery ratio (Crimp Co) of each obtained twisted yarn was obtained.
nstruction (CC (%)), hot water crimp fastness (Crimp Durality (CD (%)), and hot water shrinkage (Shrink Hot Water)
(SHW (%)) was measured. The crimp restoration ratio and the hot water crimp fastness were measured as described below, and the hot water shrinkage ratio was measured according to the method of JIS-L-1013 (1992).

Measurement of crimp recovery rate: Each woven yarn is wound around a lap reel having a peripheral length of 1.125 m with an initial load of 1/10 g / denier to make a 8-winding cassette. Remove the cassette from the wrap reel, fold it into a figure eight and fold it in two, and fold it again in the same way to make a cassette with 32 turns. This cassette is immersed in a 2 g / liter solution of Nissan Neulex (trade name; surfactant) at 100 ° C. for 5 minutes. With the cassette in the infiltrated state, a load of 1/10 g / denier is applied to measure the length, which is L1. Then, the kasse is dried in a dryer at 60 ° C. for 30 minutes in an unloaded state,
Then, it is left for 1 hour under the condition of 20 ° C. and 65% RH. A load of 1/10 g / denier is applied to the cassette, and the length is measured to be L2. CC (%) is calculated by the following formula. CC (%) = (L1−L2) × 100 / L1 (values of L1 and L2 are average values of three times).

Measurement of hot water crimp fastness: 1.125 perimeter
A wrap reel of m is wound with each twisted yarn at an initial load of 1/10 g / denier to make an 8-winding cassette. Remove the cassette from the lap reel, fold it into a figure eight, and fold it in two.
Fold it again in the same manner to make a 32-winding cassette.
With a load of 1/10 g / denier, add 100% to this cassette.
Immerse in a 2 g / liter solution of Nissan Neulex (trade name; surfactant) at 15 ° C. for 15 minutes. With the cassette in the infiltrated state, a load of 1/10 g / denier is applied to measure the length, which is L1. Next, the skein is dried in a dryer at 60 ° C. for 30 minutes in an unloaded state, and then at 20 ° C.,
Leave for 1 hour under the condition of 65% RH. 1/1 to the case
A load of 0 g / denier is applied and the length is measured and designated as L2. CD (%) is calculated by the following formula. CD (%) = (L1−L2) × 100 / L1 (values of L1 and L2 are average values of three times).

The results are shown in Table 1.

[0021]

[Table 1]

The intertwisted yarn obtained above is used as a weft yarn, and a cotton yarn of 30's count is used as a warp yarn. The weft density and the warp density are both 40 yarns / inch. ) Was woven.

The woven plain weave fabric was boiled for 30 minutes using a continuous spreading relaxer and dried. The shrinkage rate (%) of the woven fabric after drying and the elongation rate (%) under a load of 1.5 kg were measured. The results are shown in Table 2.

Further, visually observing the appearance of the obtained woven fabric,
When the wrinkles appeared uniformly, it was judged as ◯, and when the wrinkles did not appear uniformly, it was judged as x. The results are also shown in Table 2.

[0025]

[Table 2]

(Examples 2 to 4) 30's count cotton thread and 3
Each twisted yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the 0 denier polyester yarn was twisted under the conditions shown in Table 1. Then, in the same manner as in Example 1, the CC (%), CD (%), and SHW (%) of each twisted yarn were measured.
The results are also shown in Table 1 above.

The woven and twisted yarns obtained above were woven, treated and dried in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain woven fabrics.

The shrinkage rate (%) and the elongation rate (%) under a load of 1.5 kg of each woven fabric obtained above were measured in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are also shown in Table 2 above.

Furthermore, the appearance of each of the obtained fabrics is also shown in Example 1.
It judged similarly to. These results are also shown in Table 2 above.

(Examples 5-8) 40's count cotton thread and 5
Each twisted yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the 0 denier polyester processed yarn was twisted under the conditions shown in Table 3. Then, in the same manner as in Example 1, the CC (%), CD (%), and SHW (%) of each twisted yarn were measured.
Table 3 shows the results.

[0031]

[Table 3]

Each of the twisted yarns obtained above was used as a warp, a weft yarn of 16's count cotton yarn was used, and a warp density of 36 yarns /
The weaving machine for interlining with an inch and weft density of 27 fibers / inch was woven.

Each weaved fabric was boiled for 30 minutes using a continuous spreading relaxer, then dyed by a thermosol dyeing method using a jet dyeing machine and dried. The finished density of each woven fabric after drying and the elongation rate (%) under a load of 1.5 kg were measured. The results are shown in Table 4.

Further, by visually observing the appearance of each of the obtained fabrics, the case where the wrinkles appeared uniformly was judged as ◯, the case where the unevenness of the wrinkles was poor was judged as Δ, and the case where the wrinkles did not appear uniformly was judged as x. did. The applicability of this woven fabric was judged to be ◯ when it could be used as an interlining, and x when it could not be used as an interlining because of poor elongation. The results are also shown in Table 4.

[0035]

[Table 4]

(Comparative Example) 40's count cotton yarn and 50 denier polyester processed yarn were not twisted, but 4
Weaving, treatment and drying were carried out in the same manner as in Examples 5 to 8 except that only 0's count cotton yarn was used for the warp, to obtain a woven fabric of Comparative Example. The 40's count cotton yarn used here was measured for CC (%), CD (%), and SHW (%) in the same manner as in Example 1. The results show that CC (%) is 1.5, CD (%) is 0.30, and SHW (%) is 1.
It was 89.

Finishing density of the woven fabric obtained above and 1.
The elongation rate (%) under a load of 5 kg was measured in the same manner as in Examples 5-8. The results are shown in Table 5.

Further, the appearance of each obtained woven fabric and the applicability of this woven fabric were determined in the same manner as in Examples 5-8. The results are also shown in Table 5.

[0039]

[Table 5]

[0040]

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The method for producing a stretchable cellulosic fabric of the present invention makes use of the characteristics of a cellulosic fiber without using a stretchable fiber such as spandex or PBT, and makes it possible to produce a stretchable fabric at low cost and with good work efficiency. It can be manufactured. Therefore, according to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a stretchable woven fabric which is useful as a thin woven fabric that requires a slight stretchability of about 10%, such as an interlining. In particular, it is more economical to use the method for producing a stretchable cellulosic fabric of the present invention when producing a stretchable fabric for use in a place such as an interlining that does not appear on the surface.

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A method for producing a stretchable cellulosic fabric, comprising the following steps: (a) Cellulosic spun yarn and at least one type of processed yarn selected from the group consisting of polyester processed yarn and polyamide processed yarn. And (b) using the mixed twisted yarn for warp and / or weft to obtain a raw fabric; (c) heat treatment in a spread state on the raw fabric and A method for producing a stretchable cellulosic fabric, comprising the step of applying a treatment selected from the group consisting of physical treatments and then relaxing. 2. The method for producing a stretchable cellulosic woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the cellulosic spun yarn has a count of 30's or more. 3. The method for producing a stretchable cellulosic woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the thickness of the processed yarn is 2 times or more and 6 times or less the thickness of the cellulose spun yarn. 4. The stretchable cellulosic woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the step (c), the treatment is performed by at least one type of processing machine selected from the group consisting of a continuous spreading relaxer and a jet dyeing machine. Manufacturing method.