JP3516796B2 - Two-layer false twisted yarn - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a two-layer structure false twist fluff yarn as a material for clothing. Specifically, it relates to a fluffy yarn having dichroism.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A conventional two-layer structure false twisted filament yarn made of polyester is obtained by false twisting (simultaneous drawing false twisting) of a yarn that has been partially stretched prior to false twisting. As such a manufacturing method, partially drawn yarns and drawn yarns, or undrawn yarns are aligned and false-twisted (stretching simultaneous false twisting), partially drawn yarns are aligned and simultaneous drawing and false twisting, and elongation difference A method is known in which an undrawn yarn is partially drawn and then simultaneously drawn and false twisted. Thickness unevenness in the length direction,
It is characterized by having yarn length difference spots and shades of hue.

[0003]

As described above, there are some methods for producing the conventional false twisted spun yarn having a two-layer structure. Their characteristics are that they have thickness irregularities, yarn length difference irregularities, and shades of hue in the length direction of the yarn. These are attempts to approach the richness of clothes made of natural fibers such as wool and silk, but they are not completed and still artificial or lacking in deficiency. In the world of spun yarn, there are various spots that occur naturally and are caused by design,
They are all beautiful and full of shape. In addition, the method of blending and blending is an everyday event, and pursues rich hues and fullness. Furthermore, by combining colored yarns, twisting yarns, and interlacing, various ideas have been added to bring moisture to life.

The main object of the present invention is to provide a multi-filament, and to introduce a dichroic property and a polychromatic property, which cannot be obtained by the conventional false twisted filament yarn having a two-layer structure, to bring moisture to life. is there. The first is the further expansion of the amount of structure, which is the basis of the two-layer structure false twist yarn. That is, in the present invention, in addition to the yarn length difference by the conventional false twisting means, the shrinkage difference method is added to bring about the above-mentioned unevenness effect and dichroic effect and further texture effect.

[0005]

The above object is to provide a core-sheath type composite fiber in which the sheath portion is made of polyethylene terephthalate and the core portion is made of a polymer different in dye type selection from the polyethylene terephthalate. In the two-layer structure false twist irregular yarn as the yarn,
The side yarns have thickness irregularities substantially in the longitudinal direction, the yarn length difference is 2% or more longer than that of the core yarn, and the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the core yarn is larger than that of the side yarns. This is accomplished by providing a featured two-ply false twisted filament.

The two-layer structure false twist irregularity yarn of the present invention has a yarn length difference and a thickness irregularity like the conventional yarn, but basically different points are the dichroic and polychromatic properties which are not present in the conventional yarn. Is provided, and a large amount of structure is obtained by the two structure generating means of false twist and difference in shrinkage.

First, the dichroic and polychromatic properties will be described. By way of analogy to spun yarn, the yarn of the present invention is a mixed-spun yarn, and the conventional yarn is a single fiber yarn. That is, even though the conventional yarn has a thin and thick unevenness in color and a difference in shade of hue, it cannot be dyed by different dyes because it is a single fiber yarn. For example, rayon / polyester cannot be dyed separately with a disperse dye and a direct dye. In other words, it is monochromatic and, of course, not only the two-color-existing hue effect, the mixed marbling effect, and other two-color effects, but also the fact that the hue is added to the spots and shapes does not provide any fun. The difference in shade of the hue of the conventional yarn is due to the difference in dye adsorption between the unstretched portion and the stretched portion. The unstretched portion has a weak molecular orientation and is thick and absorbs the dye well, but the stretched portion has advanced molecular orientation and is thin and has a weak ability to absorb the dye. Due to this property, a difference in hue occurs, but since they are made of the same polymer, they cannot be dyed separately with different colors. The two-layer structure false twisted fluffy yarn of the present invention (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as fluffy yarn) is a part that is dyed / undyed in one fiber, a so-called white residue or a different color, for example, red. And can be dyed yellow. In short, it is as if fibers of different dye selection species are connected in a single fiber.

The side yarns constituting the fluff yarn of the present invention are core-sheath type composite fibers having a sheath portion made of polyethylene terephthalate and a core portion made of a polymer different in dye type selection from the polyethylene terephthalate. is there. Moreover, the core-sheath type composite fiber has a thickness unevenness in the length direction. The thick part of the conjugate fiber is an unstretched or semi-stretched part in which the molecular orientation is not advanced, and the detail is a stretched part in which the molecular orientation is advanced. Then, these fibers are aggregated to form thin and thick portions as yarns. The thick portion of the fluff may be formed only by the thick portion of the conjugate fiber, and the thin portion may be formed by only the details of the conjugate fiber.
It is preferable that the thick portion is thicker than other portions as a whole because not only the thick portion of the conjugate fiber but also details of the conjugate fiber are mixed. Of course, the thin portion of the fluff may be formed only by the details of the conjugate fiber, but the thick portion of the conjugate fiber may be mixed to some extent. Such a form is convenient not only as the shape of spots but also in terms of hue and hue. That is, it is smooth and natural that the thread is thick and thin but continuously becomes thinner and thicker than the stepwise shape. Also, in terms of hue, it is more natural that the two colors change continuously rather than intermittently. Furthermore, the mixture of the two colors brings depth to the hue.

The means for generating dichroism will be described. As described above, the side yarns constituting the fluff yarn of the present invention have a sheath portion made of polyethylene terephthalate, and a core portion made of a polymer different in dye type selection from the polyethylene terephthalate core-sheath type. It is composed of composite fibers. Specific examples of the polymer constituting the core of the composite fiber include polyethylene terephthalate modified with 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid; polyamides such as nylon 6 and nylon 66.

In the present invention, the factor that induces the dichroism is closely related to the above-mentioned fiber thickness unevenness and the core-sheath structure. For example, polyethylene terephthalein in which the core of the composite fiber is modified with 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid
The description will be made by taking as an example the case of being configured of The dye is dyed with a cationic dye that does not stain the sheath of the composite fiber. The details of the composite fiber are sufficiently stretched and the thickness of the sheath is relatively thin, but the molecular orientation is advanced, so that it has a property of hardly permeating a cationic dye. The core portion through which the dye has penetrated also has a property that it is difficult to dye because the molecular orientation is sufficiently advanced. On the other hand, the thickness of the thick sheath of the composite fiber is relatively thick, but the molecular orientation is weak, and the dye has a property of transmitting well. In actual work, heat treatment in false twisting process, heat treatment in fabric finishing process (preset)
It is customary to carry out an alkali weight loss treatment and a dyeing step after receiving the heat treatment such as. Therefore, after crystallization, a dyeing process is performed, and dyeing / non-dying, for example, red / white is made clearer. When subjected to heat treatment, coarse crystals are formed in the thick part of the composite fiber in which the molecular orientation is not advanced, and a pore is formed between the crystals to allow the dye to permeate well. It is more convenient that an alkali weight loss step is further performed. In the thick part where the molecular orientation is not advanced, not only the alkali weight loss rate is fast but also the alkali weight loss partially progresses. For example, the fiber surface is dug or holes are opened. There are macroscopic holes (which can be confirmed with an electron microscope), but they are microscopic holes that allow the dye to pass through. As described above, in the thick part of the composite fiber, the dye can reach the core without resistance or directly, and since the core is not advanced in molecular orientation, the dye absorbability is high.

Subsequently, when dyed with a disperse dye which is a dye capable of dyeing polyethylene terephthalate in the sheath portion, for example, a yellow dye, the details of the composite fiber become yellow and the thick portion becomes orange, and The fibers can be dyed separately in the length direction. As a fluff, a thick portion with many thick portions of the conjugate fiber is orange, and a thin portion with many details of the conjugate fiber is yellow. What's more, these colors can be mixed to create depth.
The examples of individual dyeing such as cationic dye dyeing and disperse dye dyeing have been described above, but similar effects can be obtained even when these dyes are dyed in the same bath. Of course, when the core of the composite fiber is made of polyamide, an acid dye which is a dyeable dye of polyamide may be used.

The dichroism, which is one of the features of the present invention, has been described above, but in order to effectively obtain the dichroism, it is important to make the details and aptitude appropriately. For example, regarding the reachability of the dye to the core of the composite fiber, what should be the thickness of the sheath (thickness for obtaining the contrast of dyeing), what is the preferable dyeing temperature, and when alkali reduction processing is performed, How is it? If the suitability is insufficient, the hue contrast becomes weak or uniform. In actual work, diligent selection is made while these factors are intermingling with each other. For example, when the alkali weight reduction process is not performed, the sheath / core composite ratio of the conjugate fiber is preferably 1/9 to 4/6 (weight ratio), and when the alkali weight reduction process is performed, the sheath / core composite ratio of the conjugate fiber. Is preferably 2/8 to 8/2 (weight ratio). Since the fineness is entangled in such a sheath / core composite ratio, the smaller the fineness is, the larger the sheath / core composite ratio is preferably selected. In some cases, the composite ratio may be out of the above range. is there.
Further, the dyeing temperature is also involved, and the higher the temperature, the more the selection of the sheath rich.

Further, as the processed raw yarn, a certain degree of difference in orientation is required for unstretching / stretching. When the spinning take-up speed is high, the contrast of dyeing is weak, and when the spinning take-up speed is low, a dye of high contrast is obtained, but after alkali reduction treatment, the strength is lost and the fibers do not form a fiber. Generally 1500-4000m /
A winding speed of minutes is appropriate.

In order to obtain dichroism, the thick portion of the above composite fiber is not limited to unstretched. For example, in the false twisting process, when unstretched core-sheath type composite fibers having a high elongation and unstretched fibers having a low elongation are simultaneously drawn and false twisted, the side yarns are insufficiently stretched (semi-stretched state) Dye. That is, if the stretching is insufficient, the dye is sufficiently permeated and dyed well after the alkali reduction.

Next, the structural amount, which is another feature of the present invention,
The structure generating means will be described. A large amount of structure is an essential requirement for a two-layer structure false twisted yarn, even if it is fluff.
The present invention is characterized in that not only the conventional false twist method but also the shrinkage difference method is added to the structure (yarn length difference) generating means. A large amount of structure can be obtained as compared with the conventional yarn.

First, the occurrence of the structure (difference in yarn length) in the false twisted yarn will be described. False twist process (including simultaneous drawing false twist)
Medium and high-yielding yarns go around the outside to increase the length to form side yarns, and low-elongation yarns go around to the inner side and become shorter than the side yarns to form core yarns. . A two-layer structure false twist textured yarn having a so-called yarn length difference can be obtained. In the present invention, a false twisted yarn is obtained by performing false twisting using a yarn having uneven thickness as a side yarn. When a partially drawn yarn and a drawn yarn are aligned and false twisted (simultaneous simultaneous false twisting) as a specific combination of raw yarns, and when a partially drawn yarn is aligned and simultaneously drawn and false twisted, there is no difference in elongation. In some cases, the drawn yarn may be partially drawn and then false-twisted at the same time. Depending on the combination, the yarn length difference may be locally reversed. For example, this is a case in which a partially drawn yarn is used for both the side yarn and the core yarn. The one with a high elongation between the two yarns turns to the outside and lengthens it. The side thread referred to in the present invention is called a side thread whose length is long throughout the entire yarn, and the difference in length or the average difference in length throughout the entire yarn is called the yarn length difference. Further, the side yarns are obtained from yarns having a large elongation throughout the yarn, and the larger the difference in elongation is, the larger the yarn length difference and the more woven fabric can be obtained.

Generally, the two-layer structure false twist irregular yarn has a great feature of unevenness, but as described above, it is a yarn having a relatively small difference in yarn length compared with the two-layer structure false twist textured yarn. In order to obtain a fluffy woven fabric, it is preferable to have a yarn length difference of at least 2% at the false twist stage, although it depends on the size of the yarn length difference due to the difference in shrinkage described later. The larger the yarn length difference is, the more convenient it is, and yarns rich in loops and curls, and a full woven fabric can be obtained. Of course, due to the difference in the easiness of elongation of the core yarn and the side yarn, the core yarn is a combination of drawn yarns, the side yarns are partially drawn yarns, or the core yarn is partially drawn yarns.
A sufficiently large difference in yarn length can be obtained when the side yarns are combinations of undrawn yarns.

Next, the difference in yarn length due to the difference in shrinkage will be described. As described above, the two-layer structure false twist irregular yarn is a yarn in which a difference in yarn length is hard to be obtained as compared with the two-layer structure false twist textured yarn. From this point as well, it is important for the effect to add the yarn length difference due to the shrinkage difference. One of the features of the present invention is to use a fiber having high shrinkage performance as the core yarn. That is, in the woven fabric using the fluffy yarn of the present invention, the core yarn shrinks well in the finishing step, and a further yarn length difference occurs between the side yarn and the side yarn in addition to the yarn length difference due to false twist. Examples of those having such high shrinkage performance include polyesters modified with generally well-known isophthalic acid, 2,2-bis {4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane and the like. Further, the polyester modified with a cyclic compound such as tricyclodecane dimethanol, norbornane 2,3-dimethanol, cyclohexane dimethanol, and cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid has not only high shrinkage performance, but also high temperature High shrinkage performance.

The core yarn and the side yarn of the present invention are originally different in shrinkage performance, and the core yarn has high shrinkage performance. The two yarns are subjected to a common false twist setting temperature in the false twisting process, and although there are differences in shrinkage performance, the shrinkage performance of each becomes smaller as the false twist setting temperature increases. That is, the lower the false twist set temperature, the larger the difference in shrinkage performance between the core yarn and the side yarns, and the higher the temperature, the smaller the difference. That is, the lower the false twist set temperature is, the larger the difference in shrinkage and the difference in yarn length are, and the higher the temperature is, the smaller the difference in shrinkage tends to be. Therefore, in the present invention, the false twist setting temperature is preferably low. Of course, even at high temperatures, the core yarn is modified with the third component and therefore has poor crystallinity and has a sufficiently large shrinkage performance as compared with the side yarn. Preferably, the effect of the present invention is made more effective when the boiling water shrinkage is 5% or more as the fluff.

The modification amount of the third component is preferably 3 mol% or more. Needless to say, the boiling water shrinkage of the fluffy yarn is high, and the shrinkage may be as high as 15% or more. The compound to be modified is not limited to one type, and two or more types may be used in combination as long as the above-mentioned performance is satisfied.

The method for producing the fluff yarn of the present invention will be described. It is important to partially draw either the side yarn or the core yarn prior to the false twisting process. The actual manufacturing methods are roughly classified into the following. One is the case where the partially-sheathed core-sheath type composite fiber is used as the side yarn and the drawn yarn is used as the core yarn for false twisting. The second is the undrawn yarn of the core-sheath type composite fiber is used as the side yarn. In the case of false twisting using a drawn yarn as a core yarn, in three cases, false twisting is performed using a partially drawn yarn for both the core yarn side yarns. In either case, after false twisting, it is important that the side yarns have a elongation of 2% or more longer than that of the core yarn so that the elongation of the side yarn is larger than that of the core yarn. The fluffy yarn of the present invention is a false twisted yarn having a two-layer structure composed of a core yarn and a side yarn, and since it is a yarn that easily separates from the skin, entanglement mixed fibers may be applied before or after false twisting. preferable. For example, entanglement can be imparted by disturbing fluid treatment, and the number of entanglement is preferably 20 to 250 / m from the viewpoint of preventing skin separation.
In addition, the above-mentioned dispersion of monofilaments with uneven thickness can be obtained by performing partial drawing in two stages or by performing a disturbing fluid treatment prior to partial drawing.

An example of the manufacturing apparatus is shown in FIG. The apparatus shown in FIG. 1 is an apparatus which is subjected to fluid disturbance processing and false twisting processing after partial stretching. A and B are both undrawn yarns,
A is a core-sheath type composite fiber having a high elongation and a high natural draw ratio. B is a modified polyester yarn having a small elongation and a natural draw ratio. The two processed raw yarns A and B are partially drawn at the same time between the _two rollers (DR _{1 to} DR ₂ ). At this time, it is important that the two processed raw yarns have different natural draw ratios. That is, in the subsequent false twisting process, the yarn having a large natural draw ratio becomes the side yarn, and the yarn having a small natural draw ratio becomes the core yarn, and a yarn length difference can be obtained between them. The larger the difference in yarn length, the more preferable, and the larger the difference in natural draw ratio, the more convenient. The yarn length difference is preferably 2% or more, and the natural draw ratio difference is preferably 15% or more. In addition, different natural stretch ratios cause uneven spots, and by combining them, more complicated and more natural spots are obtained. Then, through the disturbing fluid nozzle (N) and Gottet roller (DR ₃ ),
Tohi - motor (H), twister - (T), Gotettoro - plaques yarn C La (DR ₄₎ false twisting (stretching simultaneous false twisting) through the decorated with the present invention is obtained. In the above example, A and B are partially stretched at the same time, but they may be individually stretched. Further, one of the nozzles may be excessively supplied to the disturbing fluid nozzle. Alternatively, the partially drawn yarn and the undrawn yarn may be combined, and for example, the undrawn yarn may be guided to the disturbing fluid nozzle of the same device as a side yarn.

[0023]

The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. In addition, the measured values in the examples are values measured by the following methods. (1) It is a value measured at 30 ° C. using an equal weight mixed solvent of an intrinsic viscosity phenol / tetrachloroethane of polyester. (2) Measurement of boiling water shrinkage rate Take a fold of winding 10 times under a load of 1/20 g / denier and mark the ridge with an initial length (L ₀ ) of 1/20 g / denier under load. Then, this film is passed through a polyester knitted net under no load and treated with boiling water for 10 minutes, the surface water is wiped off, and the film in the net is taken out and air dried. After air drying, the initial long mark interval after treatment was measured under a load of 1/20 g / denier (L ₁ ) and calculated by the following formula. Boiling water shrinkage (%) = {L ₀ −L ₁ ) / L ₀ )} × 100

(3) Yarn length difference (%) Approximately 1 m is taken excluding twist of the processed yarn. Tie a knot at both ends and measure its length (L1). Next, separate the core yarn and the sheath yarn while being careful not to stretch the sheath yarn with the needle. The length (L2) on the sheath yarn side is measured when the knot is divided into all knots. The yarn length difference was calculated by the following formula. Thread length difference (%) = (L2-L1) / L1 (4) Entanglement degree (pieces / m) Take out a processed thread of an appropriate length, and 1/1000 g at the lower end.
/ Suspend vertically with a denier load. Then, an appropriate needle was pierced into the thread, slowly lifted, the distance moved until the load was lifted was measured 20 times, and the average value Lmm was calculated from this and calculated by 1000 / 2L.

Example 1 50 parts of polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.67 was modified with 1.7 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid in the sheath portion and 50 parts of polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.59. The composite fiber using the core as a core was wound at 1800 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn A having 200 denier / 36 filaments. On the other hand, 3100 of polyethylene terephthalate modified with 2,2-bis {4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane at 5 mol% and an intrinsic viscosity of 0.70 was used.
It was wound at m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn B having 115 denier / 24 filaments. Then, the obtained undrawn yarn A
And B were aligned, partially stretched at a stretch ratio of 1.38 using the apparatus shown in FIG. 1, and subjected to interlace processing while supplying an excess of 2%. Next, the plate heater temperature is 130 ° C., the twist is 1950 T / M, and the draw ratio is 1.
Simultaneously stretched and false twisted at 09 times, 212 denier / 6
A two-layer structure false twist irregular yarn having 0 filament, a yarn length difference of 7% and a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 16% was obtained. The number of entanglements was 101 / m.

The fluff yarn was twisted at 300 T / M to prepare a plain woven fabric, and the texture and expression were examined. The textile finishing process used conventional polyester finishing conditions.
The alkali weight loss was 21%. Then, at 120 ° C., the following bath dyeing of a cationic dye and a disperse dye was performed. The expression was light yellow and dark brown dichroic, and the contrast was moderately effective, giving a natural appearance. The texture was well bulged and soft due to the difference in yarn length due to false twisting and the difference in yarn length due to shrinkage. Dyeing: 120 ° C x 45 minutes KAYACELON BROWN C-GL (cationic dye) 3.0% owf KAYALON POLYESTER YELLOW 4R-E (disperse dye) 0.5% owf

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1 A polyethylene terephthalate yarn having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.63 was wound at 1800 m / min, and an undrawn yarn A of 200 denier / 36 filaments and a polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 were used. The undrawn yarn B of 115 denier / 24 filaments obtained by winding the tarelite yarn at 3200 m / min is aligned and drawn by using the apparatus shown in FIG.
Was partially stretched and subjected to interlace processing while supplying 2% excessively. Next, the plate heater temperature 180
Simultaneous drawing false twisting was performed at a temperature of 2,000 ° C., a twist of 2000 T / M, and a draw ratio of 1.12 to obtain a 203-denier / 60 filament, 2-layer structure false twist irregular yarn having a yarn length difference of 7% and a boiling water shrinkage of 3%. Obtained. The number of entanglements was 103 / m.

The woven yarn was twisted at 300 T / M to prepare a plain woven fabric, and the texture and the expression were examined. The textile finishing process used conventional polyester finishing conditions.
The alkali weight loss was 21%. Then, it was dyed at 130 ° C. with the disperse dye shown below. It was relatively swell in terms of texture, but lacked in softness. His facial expression was monochromatic, had low contrast, lacked punching power, and felt unsatisfactory. Dyeing: 130 ° C x 45 minutes KAYALON POLYESTER NAVY BLUE AUL-E (disperse dye) 4% owf

[0029]

The two-layer structure false twist irregular yarn of the present invention naturally has the difference in yarn length and the thickness irregularity in the length direction, but the conventional two-layer false twist irregular yarn. Hue spots that cannot be obtained with
It has polychromaticity, and in addition to the yarn length difference due to the conventional false twisting process, it also has the yarn length difference due to the shrinkage difference, so that a well-puffed and soft fabric can be obtained.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is an example of an apparatus for producing a two-layer structure false twist irregular yarn of the present invention.

[Explanation of Codes] A: Unstretched yarn (core-sheath type composite fiber) B: Unstretched yarn DR ₁ : Gotet roller DR ₂ : Gotet roller N: Disturbing fluid nozzle DR ₃ : Gotet roller H: Pre -Toheater T: Twister DR ₄ : Gotette roller C: Two-layer structure false twist yarn of the present invention

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (56) Reference JP-A-55-116827 (JP, A) JP-A-3-69622 (JP, A) JP-A-4-185735 (JP, A) JP-A-2- 229234 (JP, A) JP 6-33333 (JP, A) JP 4-73231 (JP, A) JP 63-12731 (JP, A) JP 3-90641 (JP, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D02G 1/00-3/48

Claims (3)

(57) [Claims] 1. A two-layer structure false twisted pattern having a polyethylene-terephthalate sheath and a core-sheath composite fiber having a core portion made of a polymer having a different dye type selected from that of the polyethylene-terephthalate as a side yarn. In the yarn, the side yarn has a thickness unevenness substantially in the longitudinal direction, the yarn length difference is 2% or more longer than that of the core yarn, and the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the core yarn is larger than that of the side yarn. A 2-layer structure false twist fluff yarn characterized by being large. 2. The false twist yarn having a two-layer structure according to claim 1, which has a boiling water shrinkage of 5% or more. 3. The two-layer structure false twist irregular yarn according to claim 1 or 2, which has 20 to 250 entanglements / m in the length direction.