JP2000303308A - Multi-color cloth made of polyester slub yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a multi-color cloth made of a polyester slub yarn, developing distinctive three or more colors having natural mixed feeling with tint and hue and having irregular surface feeling of the cloth. SOLUTION: The objective cloth is composed of a slub yarn having a slub part produced by winding a sheath yarn triply around a core yarn and an intermediate part having singly wound sheath yarn. The core yarn and the sheath yarn are composed of a polyester thick-and-thin filament group (a) dyeable with cationic dye and a polyester thick-and-thin filament group (b) undyeable with cationic dye, each of the filament group (a) and the filament group (b) has 3-100/m of entangled parts, the thick filament accounts for >=60% in the entangled part of each filament group and the thin filament accounts for >=60% in the non-entangled part of the filament group. The filament group (a) of the core yarn and the sheath yarn of the slub yarn is dyed with a cationic dye and the filament group (a) and the filament group (b) are dyed with a disperse dye.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a multicolor polyester slab yarn multicolor fabric expressed in three or more colors.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a method for obtaining a multicolored fabric of polyester fibers, there has been known a method of forming a fabric using a yarn capable of expressing multicolors. In a slab yarn having a slab formed by winding a sheath yarn around a core yarn, a thick yarn is used as a core yarn and / or a sheath yarn, a cationic dye-dyeable yarn is used for one of the core yarn and the sheath yarn, and a cationic dye-free yarn is used for the other. There is also known a method of using a dyed ordinary yarn and expressing a multicolor effect by such a slab yarn.

[0003] However, when a thick and thin yarn is used, a monotonous color expression is obtained only by the difference in shading between the thick portion and the fine details. In a combination of a cationic dye dyeable yarn and a cationic dye non-dyable yarn, the core yarn is In the case of cationic dye dyeable yarn,
The cationic dye-immiscible yarn of the sheath yarn covers the core yarn, and the color effect of the cationic dye-impossible yarn is reduced. If the core yarn is the cationic dye-immiscible yarn, the cationic dye-impossible yarn of the sheath yarn is used. However, there is a problem that the color effect of the cationic dye dyeable yarn becomes too strong and lacks natural feeling.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a natural mixed feeling of shades and hues which is obtained by post-dyeing, expresses three or more colors with sharpness, and has a rugged tone. An object of the present invention is to provide a polyester slab yarn multicolored fabric having a feeling.

[0005]

The present invention resides in a polyester slab yarn multicolored cloth characterized by satisfying the following requirements (1) to (3). (1) The yarn constituting at least a part of the fabric is a slab yarn in which a slab portion in which a sheath yarn is wound three times around a core yarn and a middle portion in which a sheath yarn is wound around three times are alternately formed. 2) The core yarn and the sheath yarn forming the slab yarn are a cationic dye dyeable polyester filament group (a) having a single-fiber fineness of 1 decitex or more having thick and fine spots and a single-fiber fineness of 1 decitex or more having thick and fine spots. It comprises a cationic dye-immiscible polyester filament group (b), and the filament group (a) and the filament group (b) are 3 to 1 respectively.
The yarn has a entangled portion of 00 / m, and the filament thick portion occupies 60% or more in each entangled portion of each filament group, and the filament occupies 60% or more in each non-entangled portion of each filament group. (3) The filament group (a) of the core yarn and the sheath yarn in the slab yarn is dyed with a cationic dye, and the filament group (a) and the filament group (b) are dyed with a disperse dye.

[0006]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION In the present invention, as a requirement (1), a yarn constituting a fabric is composed of a slab portion in which a sheath yarn is wound three times around a core yarn and a middle portion in which a sheath yarn is wound around three times. It is a slab yarn formed alternately.

In the present invention, as a requirement (2), the core yarn and the sheath yarn forming the slab yarn are a group of dyeable polyester filaments of a cationic dye having a fineness of 1 decitex or more having a fine spot (hereinafter, referred to as a filament group). A cationic dyeable fine filament group) (a) and a cationic dye-immiscible polyester filament group having a single fiber fineness of 1 decitex or more having large and thin spots (hereinafter referred to as a large filament group) (b), Each of the filament group (a) and the filament group (b) has an entangled portion of 3 to 100 pieces / m. In each entangled portion of each filament group, the filament thick portion occupies 60% or more. In the non-entangled portion, the yarn is a yarn in which filament details occupy 60% or more.

[0008] The cationic dyeable thin filament group (a) and the thick filament group (b) constituting the core yarn and the sheath yarn of the slab yarn, when the respective entangled portions are less than 3 / m, the cationic dyeable thick filament group The fine filament group (a) and the thick and thin filament group (b) migrate to make the contrast of shading unclear, and when the entangled portion exceeds 100 / m, the texture of the fabric becomes hard. Less than 60% of the filament thick portion at each entangled portion of the cationic dyeable thin filament group (a) and thick filament group (b), and 60% of the filament detail at each non-entangled portion of each filament group If it is less than 1, the contrast of shading becomes unclear.

In the present invention, the cationic dyeable thin filament group (a) and the thick filament group (b) constituting the core yarn and the sheath yarn of the slab yarn are, for example, a cationic dye dyeable polyester filament undrawn yarn. High-pressure air is independently sprayed onto the unstretched yarn of the cationic dye-immiscible polyester filament to entangle the filament to form an entangled portion, and then stretched at 75% or less of the maximum stretch ratio of the unstretched filament. It is obtained by doing.
According to this method, each filament is not stretched at each entangled portion of each filament yarn to form a thick filament portion, and at each non-entangled portion of each filament yarn, the filament is stretched to form a filament detail. The application of the entangled portion to each undrawn filament yarn and the formation of a thick and thin line are performed by appropriately adjusting the air pressure, the running speed, the heating element, the stretching ratio, and the like.

The undrawn yarn of the cationic dye-dyable polyester filament and the undrawn yarn of the cationic dye-immiscible polyester filament have two spinning holes arranged in one spinneret so as to form respective filaments. The cationic dyeable thick filament group (a) and the thick filament group (b) in the mixed yarn of the present invention are formed by a high-pressure air jet to each undrawn yarn. The formation of thick details by application and stretching can be performed simultaneously in a series of steps.

The cationic dyeable thick filament group (a) constituting the core and sheath yarns of the slab yarn in the present invention comprises ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit,
Sodium sulfoisophthalic acid or 2-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, 1,8-dicarboxynaphthalene-
Sodium 3-sulfonate or the like is preferably 1.5 to 3.
It consists of 5 mol% copolymerized polyester and has dyeability to cationic dyes.

The thick and thin filament group (b) is made of a polyester having ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit, and has a non-staining property with respect to a cationic dye. The thick and thin filament group (b) is made of polyester obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid, adipic acid, polyoxyalkylene glycol, etc., with ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit, and has easy dyeability to disperse dyes. Is also good.

The cationically dyeable thin filament group (a) and the thick filament group (b) need to have a single fiber fineness of 1 dtex or more. No color effect is exhibited.

In the core yarn and the sheath yarn constituting the slab yarn, it is preferable that the cationic dyeable thick filament group (a) and the thick filament group (b) are mixed yarns. It is preferable that the fibers are mixed by high-pressure air injection such as interlace processing, but it is not essential to impart confounding, and the fibers may be mixed by twisting or the like.

[0015] The slab yarn is formed by using a yarn comprising a cationic dyeable thick and thin filament group (a) and a thick and thin filament group (b) as a core yarn and a sheath yarn in a composite false twisting process. In the false twist region of the yarn composed of the cationic dyeable thin filament group (a) and the thick filament group (b), the yarn composed of the cationic dyeable thin filament group (a) and the thick filament group (b) It is inserted as a sheath yarn, and a slab portion in which the sheath yarn is wound three times around the core yarn and a middle portion in which the sheath yarn is wound around one time are alternately formed. Frequency of slab,
The length and the like are not particularly limited, and can be appropriately changed according to the running speed of the core yarn, the core yarn feed rate, the supply distance of the sheath yarn insertion, the sheath yarn feed rate, and the like. For example, composite false twisting
Core yarn traveling speed 50 to 150 m / min, core yarn twist coefficient 150
00 to 25000 (twist coefficient of core yarn = √decitex of core yarn × number of false twists), heater temperature 170 to 235 ° C., core yarn feed rate 1 to 5%, sheath yarn supply guide distance 10 to 100
It can be performed under the conditions of 0 mm and a sheath yarn feed rate of 50 to 150%.

Further, as the requirement (3) in the present invention,
Polyester slab yarn The cation-dyeable thin filament group (a) of the core yarn and the sheath yarn of the slab yarn constituting the multicolor cloth is dyed with a cationic dye, and the cation-dyeable thin filament group (a) and the thick filament It is necessary that the group (b) is dyed in the same color, a different color, or a mixed color with a disperse dye. The unentangled portion where the details of the crimped filaments are concentrated are dyed pale.

In order to obtain the polyester slab yarn multicolored fabric of the present invention, a slab yarn comprising a cationic dyeable thick filament group (a) and a thick filament group (b) and twisted or untwisted is obtained by: If the fabric is a woven fabric, it is arranged on a warp and / or a weft, or is arranged on a part of a warp or a weft and weaved, or if the fabric is a knit, it is knitted using a yarn for a knitted fabric to fabricate the fabric. Form.

Next, the fabric is dyed with a dye liquor containing a cationic dye and a disperse dye, preferably at 120 to 135 ° C.
By the high-temperature dyeing using the cationic dye and the disperse dye, the cation-dyeable fine filament group (a) of the core yarn and the sheath yarn of the slab yarn constituting the fabric is dyed with the cationic dye and the disperse dye, respectively, in a shade. And the thick filament group (b) of the sheath yarn is dyed in shades by the disperse dye,
Since the filament thick portion is concentrated on the entangled portion and the filament details are concentrated on the non-entangled portion of each filament group, and the fused portion is present, the contrast of light and shade becomes clear. That is, when the polyester fabric of the present invention is dyed, the hue due to the cationic dye due to the dyeing property, the hue due to the disperse dye, and the shading due to the thick and thin spots are mixed to express three or more natural multicolors. Is done.

It is preferable that the polyester slab yarn multicolor fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric, and a slab yarn with or without twist is arranged on at least one of a warp and a weft. Any one of known weft or warp, and other known fineness, dyeability, fiber properties, processed form, etc., polyester filament yarn may be arranged, and further optional multicolor ,
Fabrics with higher fashionability can be obtained by giving texture or form.

[0020]

The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples.

Example 1 A spinneret provided with 20 spinning holes was prepared by dyeing a cationic dye-dyeable polymer having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.58 by copolymerizing 2.0 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid with polyethylene terephthalate. Spinning temperature 2 at
The yarn was spun at 85 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1800 m / min, and air-sprayed at an air pressure of 0.5 MPa to obtain an undrawn yarn having a entangled portion of 50 / m. In addition, intrinsic viscosity 0.72
Of polyethylene terephthalate in a spinneret provided with 28 spinning holes at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1800
The yarn was spun at m / min and subjected to an air jet treatment at an air pressure of 0.5 MPa to obtain an undrawn yarn having a entangled portion of 55 / m.

These two types of undrawn yarns are drawn together, drawn with a hot pin at 85.degree. C. and a hot plate at 120.degree.
A yarn of a filament (single fiber fineness: 2.3 dtex) was obtained. In the obtained yarn, the filament thick portion occupied 75% at each entangled portion in the cationic dyeable thin filament group, and the filament details occupied 75% at each non-entangled portion.
Also, the filament thick portion occupied 78% of each entangled portion in the thick and thin filament group, and the filament detail occupied 80% of each non-entangled portion.

The obtained yarn is used as a core yarn and a sheath yarn.
0 rpm, number of false twists 2,300 t / m, heater temperature 18
A sheath yarn is supplied from a position 15 cm away from the false twist region of the core yarn in the false twisting process at 0 ° C., an overfeed rate of 2%, and a running speed of 100 m / min. The slab part wound around and the middle part of the road where the sheath yarn was wrapped singly were formed. The obtained slab yarn had 10 slab portions of 70 mm in length per 1 m.

The obtained slab yarn is used for warp and weft,
Woven into a plain weave fabric. The resulting fabric was subjected to a 10% by weight weight loss processing, followed by high-temperature dyeing at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes in a bath containing a cationic dye and a disperse dye. The obtained dyed woven fabric has an uneven texture, and the cationic dye dyeable fine filament group (a) and the thick filament group (b)
In each of the concentrated part of the thick part of the filament and the concentrated part of the details of the filament, three or more colors of each color with a clear contrast by the cationic dye and the disperse dye, each color by the cationic dye and the disperse dye, and three colors or more are extremely sharp. It was a multi-colored fabric with rich and multi-colored expression.

[0025]

The multicolored polyester slab yarn fabric of the present invention expresses three or more sharp multicolored colors having a natural change, and the fabric has a good texture with unevenness. In addition, such a multicolor fabric is easily obtained by post-dyeing and is suitable as a fabric for clothing requiring a color effect.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────の Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) D04B 1/16 D04B 1/16 F term (Reference) 4L002 AA07 AB02 AB04 AC06 AC07 DA04 EA08 FA01 4L036 MA05 MA25 MA33 MA40 PA01 PA03 PA06 PA10 PA14 PA17 RA25 RA28 UA16 4L048 AA20 AA36 AB08 AB19 AB23 AC01 BA01 BA02 BC00 CA00 DA01 EB04

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A polyester slab yarn multicolored cloth which satisfies the following requirements (1) to (3). (1) The yarn constituting at least a part of the fabric is a slab yarn in which a slab portion in which a sheath yarn is wound three times around a core yarn and a middle portion in which a sheath yarn is wound around three times are alternately formed. 2) The core yarn and the sheath yarn forming the slab yarn are a cationic dye dyeable polyester filament group (a) having a single-fiber fineness of 1 decitex or more having thick and fine spots and a single-fiber fineness of 1 decitex or more having thick and fine spots. It comprises a cationic dye-immiscible polyester filament group (b), and the filament group (a) and the filament group (b) are 3 to 1 respectively.
The yarn has a entangled portion of 00 / m, the filament thick portion occupies 60% or more in each entangled portion of each filament group, and the filament details occupy 60% or more in each non-entangled portion of each filament group. (3) The filament group (a) of the core yarn and the sheath yarn in the slab yarn is dyed with a cationic dye, and the filament group (a) and the filament group (b) are dyed with a disperse dye. 2. A multicolor polyester slab yarn fabric, wherein the fabric is a woven fabric, wherein the composite slab yarn according to claim 1 is disposed on at least one of a warp and a weft, or a part of the warp or the weft.