JP7238341B2 - fabric - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to textiles.

In the past, fabrics for formal clothing were woven using high-twist yarns to create an elegant appearance, resulting in a heavy weight per unit area. I didn't get it. Therefore, when used in summer, it is thick and has no air permeability, and the inside of the clothes becomes stuffy, which is extremely uncomfortable. Against this background, there is a demand for fabrics that have an elegant appearance and elasticity, are lightweight and have excellent breathability, for formal clothing.

Patent Literature 1 proposes a lightweight, high-density woven fabric that is moderately windproof by weaving it at a high density and has partial breathability by dissolving and removing readily elutable fibers.

Patent Document 2 proposes a woven fabric having excellent breathability and stretchability by forming holes penetrating from the fiber surface to the back surface by dissolving at least a part of the entangled portions of the warp yarn and the weft yarn.

Japanese Patent No. 5833269 Japanese Patent No. 5896059

Although the woven fabric described in Patent Document 1 is light and thin, it is poor in appearance and texture as formal clothing.

The woven fabric described in Patent Document 2 has both breathability and stretchability due to the above configuration, but there is no description of using a hard-twisted yarn. Not suitable for clothing applications.

In view of the background of such prior art, it is an object of the present invention to provide a woven fabric that has gaps at arbitrary intervals, is lightweight, is resistant to misalignment, and has an elegant appearance and excellent elasticity. It is something to do.

The present inventors arrived at the present invention as a result of intensive studies in order to solve the above problems. The present invention consists of the following configurations.
(1) Made of polyester multifilament, at least part of the warp yarn and / or weft yarn has a twist number of 300 to 3000 T / m and a twist coefficient of 9000 to 100000, and the warp yarn and / or weft yarn is arbitrary It is arranged so that there is a gap for each number of threads, and the warp and / or weft threads that cross the warp and / or weft threads that make up the gap are arranged to cross from the front side to the back side or from the back side to the front side. Woven textiles.
(2) The woven fabric according to (1), which has a basis weight of 60 to 220 g/m ² .
(3) The woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (2), which has a lightness (L value) of 7.0 to 12.0.
(4) Black formal clothing made of the woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (3).
(5) In the method for producing a woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (3), the warp yarn and / or weft yarn that finally constitutes the woven fabric, and the easily soluble warp yarn and / or weft yarn A method for producing a woven fabric by distributing and weaving an arbitrary number of yarns, and eluting the easily elutable yarns after weaving to form voids according to the fineness and the number of arranged yarns.

According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a woven fabric that has gaps at arbitrary intervals, is lightweight, is resistant to misalignment, has an elegant appearance, and has excellent elasticity.

FIG. 1 is an explanatory diagram for explaining that the threads crossing the gap are arranged so as to be draped from the front side to the back side or from the back side to the front side.

The present invention will be described in detail below.

The fabric of the invention is composed of polyester multifilaments.

Examples of the polyester multifilament used in the present invention include, but are not limited to, polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and the like. Fibers obtained by copolymerizing acid, polyethylene glycol or the like, or fibers obtained by blending these copolymers or polyethylene glycol may be used. These fibers can be used singly or in combination of two or more. Among them, polyethylene terephthalate is preferable because it has excellent physical properties and is available at a low cost.

Also, the filament cross section of the polyester multifilament is not particularly limited, and may be a round cross section or an irregular cross section. Examples of modified cross-sections include multi-leaf cross-sections such as H-shape, X-shape, Y-shape, W-shape, and cross-shape, and polygons such as triangles, quadrilaterals, pentagons, and hexagons with deep grooves. It can be of any shape. Among them, a circular cross section is preferable because it is available at a low cost.

The total fineness of the polyester multifilament used in the present invention is preferably 30 to 300, more preferably 50 to 200, from the viewpoint of thickness and stiffness for formal use.

In the present invention, it is also preferable to subject the polyester multifilament to yarn processing such as false twisting and air processing and use it as textured yarn.

As the false twisting process, it can be used in the form of a textured yarn obtained by drawing false twisting of POY, friction false twisting of SDY, or pin false twisting of SDY.

Furthermore, as air processing, high pressure air is applied to two types of running polyester multifilament yarns to partially mix and entangle the filaments to create an interlaced yarn, and the difference in the amount supplied to the turbulent nozzle. It is possible to apply taslan processing to form a loop by supplying it with a taslan processed yarn.

In addition, at least part of the warp yarn and/or weft yarn of the polyester multifilament is twisted yarn, more preferably at least part of the warp yarn and weft yarn is twisted yarn, and most preferably all are twisted yarn. preferable. Being a twisted yarn, not only does it have excellent appearance quality as formal clothing, but it also has relatively high rigidity even with a low density, making it difficult for the yarn to become misaligned.

The twist number of the twisted yarn is 300 to 3000 T/m and the twist coefficient is 9000 to 100000, preferably 1000 to 2900 T/m and the twist coefficient is 10000 to 30000, more preferably 1500 to 2800 T/m, and More preferably, the twist coefficient is 15,000 to 29,000. If it is outside the above range, the appearance quality after elution is not excellent, and not only misalignment is likely to occur, but also there is a risk of interfering with weaving in the strong twist direction.

The twist coefficient K is expressed by the following formula.
Twist factor (K) = number of twists (T) x √ total fineness (D)
(K: twist coefficient, T: number of twists per unit length (T/m), D: fineness dtex)

In the woven fabric of the present invention, the warp and/or weft threads are arranged so that there is a gap for each arbitrary number of threads, and the warp and/or weft threads that cross the warp and/or weft threads that make up the gap are arranged to be draped from the front side to the back side or from the back side to the front side.

In addition, since a woven fabric is usually constructed by intersecting weaving yarns arranged in the warp direction and weaving yarns arranged in the weft direction, there are inevitably small gaps between adjacent warp yarns or between weft yarns due to the structure. However, the gap in the present invention is not such a gap, but an arbitrary number of warp or weft yarns arranged (Hereinafter, this arranged arrangement is a group of yarns, and between adjacent warp yarns or between weft yarns It is a gap formed between groups of yarns that appears between yarn groups and is larger than the spacing between adjacent yarns in said yarn group. That is, when the spacing between adjacent weaving yarns is evaluated by projecting from a direction perpendicular to the plane of the fabric, the minute gaps forming between the yarns in the weaving yarn group are larger than the minute gaps between adjacent weaving yarn groups. Although voids can be observed, the latter are referred to as voids in the present invention.

Such a woven fabric is woven by distributing an arbitrary number of easily soluble warp or weft yarns together with warp yarns or weft yarns that finally constitute the fabric, for either warp yarns or weft yarns, or both. Then, by eluting the easily soluble weaving yarn after weaving, it is possible to manufacture by forming voids according to the fineness and the number of arranged yarns.

Fibers that can be used as warp yarns and/or weft yarns that are eluted after weaving are preferably fibers that can be eluted with a liquid medium such as water or an alkaline solution. Specifically, water-soluble fibers such as polyvinyl alcohol fibers. , easily alkali-eluting polyester fiber, isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, and a third component such as methoxypolyoxyethylene glycol are copolymerized, and easily alkali-eluting fibers such as polylactic acid fibers can be used. It can be, but is not limited to.

The total fineness of the fibers that can be used as easily elutable warp and/or weft yarns in the present invention is preferably 20 to 100 from the viewpoint of determining the gap distance at the time of elution, and is preferably 30 to 90. more preferred.

In the present invention, readily soluble fibers are arranged every time an arbitrary number of warp and/or weft yarns constituting the fabric are arranged. In this case, the number of easily elutable fibers arranged is not limited as long as the number can form a desired gap. When selecting the number of threads, considering the weave structure, the warp and/or weft crossing the warp and/or weft that make up the gaps as described later are used as the weave structure after eluting the easily elutable fibers. Since it is laid out from the front side to the back side or from the back side to the front side, select the number that can be realized. In the case of a woven structure such as a plain weave in which warp yarns and weft yarns are alternately interlaced, an even number of yarns are normally arranged continuously.

In addition, the number of twists of the easily soluble polyester multifilament is preferably 300 to 3000 T/m (twist coefficient 2700 to 28000), more preferably 500 to 2500 T/m (twist coefficient 4500 to 23000), and further It is preferably 1000 to 2000 T/m (twist coefficient 9000 to 19000). If it is outside the above range, not only will the appearance quality of the resulting woven fabric be poor, but excessively strong twisting may interfere with weaving.

The form of the woven fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, and plain, twill, satin and georgette, pear-skinned, air-feathered karami-like, and plain double woven fabrics are preferred. Among them, georgette is more preferable from the viewpoint of dignity as formal clothing.

Further, in the woven fabric of the present invention, warp threads and/or weft threads crossing the warp threads and/or weft threads forming the gaps are draped from the front side to the back side or from the back side to the front side. This point will be described with reference to FIG. That is, since there is a gap between warp yarn 1 and warp yarn 2, it is the warp yarn that forms the gap. The weft threads 3 intersecting the warp threads 1 and 2 are arranged so as to be draped from the front side to the back side when viewed from the direction of the warp threads 1 to the warp threads 2. - 特許庁

In this way, the threads that intersect with the threads that make up the gap are arranged so that they are draped from the front side to the back side, or from the back side to the front side. It is not limited to those arranged alternately like tissue.

Furthermore, the fabric weight of the fabric of the present invention is preferably 60 to 220 g/m ² , more preferably 70 to 150 g/m ² , and still more preferably 80 to 120 g/m ² from the viewpoint of formal use. is more preferred.

The woven fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric, and may have any structure and shape, such as a belt-like article or a string-like article.

The fabric of the present invention may be dyed and finished by a general process, for example, after continuous desizing and refining, dry setting, weight reduction, dyeing with a liquid jet dyeing machine, printing, water repellent agent, dark color agent, etc. of finish is applied, and a finish set is performed to finish. The same process is adopted for any form of fabric, and the dyeing conditions may be selected according to the material. The woven fabric may be provided with a finishing agent such as a softening agent, an antistatic agent, a water absorbing agent, an antibacterial deodorant, or the like, in addition to a fluorine-based, silicon-based, or paraffin-based water repellent agent.

The woven fabric of the present invention preferably has a lightness L value of 7.0 to 12.0 after being dyed and finished.

The air permeability of the woven fabric of the present invention is preferably 200 cc/m ² /sec or more, more preferably 250 cc/m ² /sec or more, from the viewpoint of providing comfort as formal clothing. In addition, the air permeability referred to here is evaluated by a method to be described later.

The present invention can also be usefully used as a textile product using the woven fabric.

In the present invention, it is preferably used as clothing, particularly as formal wear such as jackets, slacks and skirts. In particular, by satisfying the above lightness, it becomes an elegant appearance suitable for formal wear, especially black formal wear. Brightness can be achieved by selecting a black dye and using a hard twist on the textured yarn. Furthermore, it is also preferable to apply a deep dyeing process using a bathochromic agent.

The invention is not limited to the following examples. In addition, evaluation of the performance in the Examples was performed according to the following method.

(Fineness)
Measured according to JIS-L-1013 (2010) 8.3.1 B method.

(number of twists)
Measured according to JIS-L-1013 (2010) 7.2.2.

(weave density)
Measured according to JIS-L-1096 (2010) 8.6.1 A method.

(Metsuke)
Measured according to JIS-L-1096 (2010) 8.3.2 A method.

(chromogenic)
The L value was measured using a Konica Minolta CM-2600d colorimeter. A lower numerical value indicates better color developability.

(Slip resistance)
Measured according to JIS-L-1096 (2010) 8.23.1 B method. It was determined that a level of 3.0 mm or less in the vertical direction and 3.0 mm or less in the horizontal direction was acceptable for wearing.

(Permeability)
Measured according to JIS-L-1096 (2010) 8.26.1 A method. If the ventilation rate was 200 cc/m ² /sec or more, it was determined that the ventilation was good. It should be noted that the higher the air permeability, the better the air permeability.

(Appearance quality)
◎Elegant appearance and sufficient stiffness, ○Satisfying either elegant appearance or sufficient stiffness, △Not excellent in both appearance and texture, ×Defective (including misalignment).

[Example 1]
105 dtex/54 filament polyester fibers are subjected to taslan processing for the warp yarn, and twisted with a twist number of 2600 T/m and a twist coefficient of 26650. Strongly twisted yarn and 84 dtex/24 filament alkali-soluble polyester fiber with a twist number of 2000 T/m. A georgette fabric was woven in which hard-twisted yarns with a twist coefficient of 18330 were alternately arranged at a ratio of 10:2, and the weft yarns were arranged in the same manner as the warp yarns. Next, after performing scouring, drying, and intermediate setting according to the usual method, the fiber is treated in a bath at 95°C for 10 minutes in a solution adjusted to have a concentration of 3% sodium hydroxide to obtain a polyester fiber that easily dissolves alkali. After completely dissolving, dyeing and drying are performed according to the usual method, resin processing is performed using a bathochromic agent to improve brightness, and finish setting is performed to obtain a vertical density of 80 strands/2.54 cm. A processed cloth having a horizontal density of 71 lines/2.54 cm and having a georgette texture except for the voids was obtained. This processed cloth has a gap every 10 warp threads and ten weft threads, and the warp threads and weft threads that cross the warp threads and weft threads that make up the gaps are draped from the front side to the back side or from the back side to the front side. It was a fabric arranged to be worn. Evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[Example 2]
105 dtex / 54 filament polyester fiber is subjected to Taslan processing for the warp yarn, and the twist number is 2600 T / m and the twist coefficient is 26650. Taslan processing yarn is applied to the weft yarn. 10 hard-twisted yarns twisted with a twist number of 2600 T/m and a twist coefficient of 26650 and 84 dtex/24 filament polyester fibers with a twist number of 2000 T/m and a twist coefficient of 18330. Book: Two pear-skin fabrics alternately arranged were woven. Next, after performing scouring, drying, and intermediate setting according to the usual method, the fiber is treated in a bath at 95°C for 10 minutes in a solution adjusted to have a concentration of 3% sodium hydroxide to obtain a polyester fiber that easily dissolves alkali. After completely dissolving, dyeing and drying are performed according to the usual method, resin processing is performed using a bathochromic agent to improve brightness, and finish setting is performed to obtain a vertical density of 118 lines / 2.54 cm. A processed cloth having a horizontal density of 75 lines/2.54 cm and having a satin-finished texture except for voids was obtained. This processed cloth has a gap for every 10 weft threads, and the warp and weft threads that cross the warp and weft threads that make up the gap are arranged so that they are draped from the front side to the back side or from the back side to the front side. It was a woven fabric. Evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[Example 3]
167 dtex/60 filament polyester fiber is subjected to taslan processing for the warp yarn, and the hard-twisted yarn is arranged with a twist number of 1600 T/m and a twist coefficient of 20680, and taslan processing is applied to the weft yarn of 167 dtex/60 filament polyester fiber. A hard-twisted yarn twisted with a twist number of 1600 T / m and a twist coefficient of 20680 and a 33 dtex / 12 filament polyester fiber with a twist number of 2000 T / m and a twist coefficient of 11490. An air feather karami-like fabric was woven alternately at a ratio of 10:2. Next, after performing scouring, drying, and intermediate setting according to the usual method, the fiber is treated in a bath at 95°C for 10 minutes in a solution adjusted to have a concentration of 3% sodium hydroxide to obtain a polyester fiber that easily dissolves alkali. After completely dissolving, dyeing and drying are carried out according to the usual method, resin processing is performed using a bathochromic agent to further improve brightness, and finish setting is performed to obtain a vertical density of 45 lines / 2.54 cm. A processed cloth was obtained which had a horizontal density of 54 lines/2.54 cm and a structure other than voids that had an empty feather husk texture. This processed cloth has a gap for every 10 weft threads, and the warp and weft threads that cross the warp and weft threads that make up the gap are arranged so that they are draped from the front side to the back side or from the back side to the front side. It was a woven fabric. Evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[Example 4]
200 dtex/60 filament polyester fibers are subjected to false twisting for the warp yarn, and the hard-twisted yarn with a twist number of 1600 T/m and a twist coefficient of 22630 is arranged, and the weft yarn is a 172 dtex/60 filament polyester fiber. A strong twisted yarn twisted with a twist number of 1600 T/m and a twist coefficient of 20980 and a 33 dtex/12 filament polyester fiber with a twist number of 2000 T/m and a twist coefficient of 11490. A plain double fabric was woven in which twisted yarns were alternately arranged at a ratio of 8:4. Next, after performing scouring, drying, and intermediate setting according to the usual method, the fiber is treated in a bath at 95°C for 10 minutes in a solution adjusted to have a concentration of 3% sodium hydroxide to obtain a polyester fiber that easily dissolves alkali. After completely dissolving, dyeing and drying are carried out according to the usual method, resin processing is performed using a bathochromic agent to further improve the brightness, and finish setting is performed to obtain a vertical density of 151 lines / 2.54 cm. A processed cloth having a horizontal density of 93 lines/2.54 cm and having a flat double-layered structure other than the voids was obtained. This processed cloth has a gap for every 8 weft threads, and the warp and weft threads that cross the warp and weft threads that make up the gap are arranged so that they are draped from the front side to the back side or from the back side to the front side. It was a woven fabric. Evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

As shown in Table 1, the obtained processed fabric was lightweight, and had good slip resistance and air permeability.

[Comparative Example 1]
200 dtex/60 filament polyester fibers are false twisted to the warp yarn, and the twist number is 1600 T/m and the twist coefficient is 22630. The hard twist yarn and the weft yarn are false twisted to 172 dtex/60 filament polyester fibers. A plain double woven fabric was woven by arranging hard-twisted yarns having a twist number of 1600 T/m and a twist coefficient of 20980. Next, after scouring, drying, and intermediate setting according to the usual method, weight reduction, dyeing, and drying are performed, and in order to further improve the brightness, resin processing is performed using a bathing agent, and finish setting is performed to reduce the vertical density. Comparative Example 1 was a woven fabric used for general formal clothing having a 151 strands/2.54 cm and a horizontal density of 93 strands/2.54 cm. In this woven fabric, there was no elution of weaving yarns, so the number of yarns was not arranged so as to have a gap for each specific number of yarns. Evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

The obtained processed cloth had no gaps, had a heavy basis weight as shown in Table 1, and had poor air permeability, and was not satisfactory.

[Comparative Example 2]
105 dtex/54 filament polyester fibers are subjected to taslan processing for the warp yarn, and twisted with a twist number of 2600 T/m and a twist coefficient of 26650. Strongly twisted yarn and 84 dtex/24 filament alkali-soluble polyester fiber with a twist number of 2000 T/m. A georgette fabric was woven in which hard twisted yarns with a twist coefficient of 18330 were alternately arranged at a ratio of 9:3, and the weft yarns were arranged in the same manner as the warp yarns. Next, after performing scouring, drying, and intermediate setting according to the usual method, the fiber is treated in a bath at 95°C for 10 minutes in a solution adjusted to have a concentration of 3% sodium hydroxide to obtain a polyester fiber that easily dissolves alkali. After completely dissolving, dyeing and drying are performed according to the usual method, resin processing is performed using a bathochromic agent to improve brightness, and finish setting is performed to obtain a vertical density of 80 strands/2.54 cm. A processed cloth having a horizontal density of 71 lines/2.54 cm and having a georgette texture except for the voids was obtained. This processed cloth had gaps in each of nine warp threads and nine weft threads, but the warp threads and warp threads that intersect the warp threads and weft threads that make up the gaps were not arranged in the tasuki, and the front side It was a woven fabric that was placed on the same side from the front to the front or from the back to the back. Evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

As shown in Table 1, the resulting processed cloth was unsatisfactory in that it had a weak sliding resistance and caused misalignment.

[Comparative Example 3]
Plain fabric in which 84 dtex/36 filament polyester untwisted yarn and 84 dtex/24 filament easy alkaline soluble polyester untwisted yarn are alternately arranged in the warp yarn at a ratio of 8:2, and the weft yarn is arranged in the same manner as the warp yarn. got Next, after performing scouring, drying, and intermediate setting according to the usual method, the fiber is treated in a bath at 95°C for 10 minutes in a solution adjusted to have a concentration of 3% sodium hydroxide to obtain a polyester fiber that easily dissolves alkali. After complete dissolution, dyeing, drying and finish setting were carried out according to conventional methods to obtain a plain weave processed cloth having a warp density of 132 strands/2.54 cm and a weft density of 105 strands/2.54 cm. This processed cloth has a gap for each eight warp and weft threads, and the warp and weft threads that intersect the warp and weft threads that make up the gap are draped from the front side to the back side or from the back side to the front side. It was a woven fabric arranged in a pattern. Evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

As shown in Table 1, the obtained processed cloth was poor in appearance and texture, and was not satisfactory in color developability.

The woven fabric of the present invention has wide gaps, is lightweight, resistant to misalignment, and has an elegant appearance and excellent elasticity, so that formal clothing products can be suitably manufactured.

1. Warp yarn 2. Warp yarn 3. weft thread

Claims (4)

Composed of polyethylene terephthalate multifilament , the warp and weft yarns have a twist number of 300 to 3000 T / m and a twist coefficient of 9000 to 100000, and the warp yarn and / or weft yarn have a gap for each arbitrary number of yarns. It is arranged so that the warp and / or weft that crosses the warp and / or weft that constitutes the gap is arranged to cross from the front side to the back side or from the back side to the front side , and the basis weight is 60 to 220 g / A fabric that is m ² . The fabric according to claim 1, which has a lightness (L value) of 7.0 to 12.0. A black formal garment constructed from the fabric according to claim 1 or 2 . The method for producing a fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3 , wherein an arbitrary number of easily soluble warp and / or weft threads are distributed along with the warp and / or weft threads that finally constitute the fabric. A method for producing a woven fabric, in which the easily elutable weaving yarn is eluted after weaving to form voids corresponding to the fineness and the number of arranged yarns.

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