JP7615601B2 - Blended yarn, woven or knitted fabric using the same, manufacturing method thereof, and black formal clothing - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a blended yarn with high black color development and excellent bulkiness that was not previously possible, a woven or knitted fabric using the yarn, a manufacturing method thereof, and black formal clothing.

Conventionally, in order to express an elegant black color, polyester woven and knitted fabrics for black formal clothing have been proposed, such as woven and knitted fabrics in which core and sheath polyester fibers with different hot water shrinkage rates are mixed to obtain interfiber voids to absorb incident light, and woven and knitted fabrics in which fine holes are formed on the surface of polyester fibers to reduce reflected light, but these have the disadvantage that the color development of dyed fabrics is inferior to natural fibers such as acetate, rayon, wool, silk, etc., and the depth of color of natural fibers cannot be obtained. In particular, the depth of black color is significantly inferior to natural fibers, so there is a strong demand for improvement in the color development of black for black formal clothing applications.

Patent Document 1 proposes a woven or knitted fabric that combines aesthetic appeal such as high color development, fullness, and softness with qualities such as abrasion resistance and resistance to iron marks, by using a blended yarn consisting of polyester filaments with a hot water shrinkage rate of 15% or more in the core and polyester filaments with a hot water shrinkage rate of 3% or less and containing colloidal silica of 0.02 to 0.1 μm in the sheath.

Patent Document 2 proposes weaving a mixed yarn made of polyester filaments containing a metal-containing phosphorus compound with a particle diameter of 0.01 to 1.5 μm in the core and sheath, and treating it with an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution to form micropores, resulting in a fabric with excellent deep dyeability, lightness, dryness, and breathability.

JP 2009-185416 A JP 2019-183366 A

The fabric described in Patent Document 1 has excellent color development, resistance to iron marks, and friction fastness, but the polyester filaments that make up the core are thin and the strength of the blended yarn is weak at 1.7 cN/dtex or less, so it is prone to pilling and its durability is insufficient for use as formal clothing.

The fabric described in Patent Document 2 has excellent color development, lightness, and dryness due to the above-mentioned composition, and also has excellent breathability, but the difference in hot water shrinkage rate between the core and sheath is small, so it is insufficient to obtain bulkiness for use in black formal clothing.

In view of the background of the prior art, the present invention aims to provide a blended yarn and woven/knitted fabric with excellent black coloring and bulkiness for black formal clothing, as well as a method for producing the same.

In order to solve the above problems, the mixed yarn of the present invention has the following configuration.
The mixed yarn is made by using polyester multifilaments containing colloidal silica having an average primary particle size of 0.02 to 0.1 μm as a core and a sheath, and is characterized in that the hot water shrinkage rate of the core polyester multifilaments (excluding those having a single fiber fineness of 1 dtex or less) is 18 % to 30%, and the hot water shrinkage rate of the sheath polyester multifilaments is 5% or less.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has the following configuration.
A woven or knitted fabric using the above blended yarn.

The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has the following configuration.
The method for producing the above woven or knitted fabric is characterized in that microvoids are formed in the core and sheath portions of the mixed yarn that ultimately constitutes the woven or knitted fabric by reducing the weight of the mixed yarn by 10 to 30% by weight in an alkali reduction step in dyeing processing.

The black formal clothing of the present invention has the following configuration.
A black formal garment characterized by being made of the above woven or knitted fabric.

The blended yarn of the present invention is preferably twisted with a twist multiplier of 12,000 to 30,000.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a brightness (L value) of 7.0 to 12.0.

The present invention makes it possible to provide woven and knitted fabrics that have excellent black color development and bulkiness.

The present invention is described in detail below.

The blended yarn of the present invention is characterized in that the core and sheath are composed of polyester multifilaments containing colloidal silica with a primary particle diameter of 0.02 to 0.1 μm, the polyester multifilaments constituting the core have a hot water shrinkage rate of 10% to 30%, and the polyester multifilaments constituting the sheath have a hot water shrinkage rate of 5% or less.

The hot water shrinkage rate of the polyester multifilament (excluding those having a single fiber fineness of 1 dtex or less) constituting the core is 18 % to 30%. If the hot water shrinkage rate is less than 18 %, the difference in yarn length with the sheath yarn cannot be increased by high shrinkage, resulting in inferior bulkiness, and black coloring due to the multiple reflection of incident light by the core-sheath gap cannot be expected. On the other hand, if the hot water shrinkage rate exceeds 30%, the amount of unoriented polymer inside the fiber increases, causing deterioration over time. The hot water shrinkage rate of the polyester multifilament constituting the core is preferably 18 % to 25%.

The hot water shrinkage rate of the polyester multifilament constituting the sheath is 5% or less. If the hot water shrinkage rate exceeds 5%, the dark color due to increased dyeability and excellent black color development due to reduced light reflection from microvoids cannot be expected, and the difference in hot water shrinkage rate with the core polyester multifilament becomes small, so a sufficient core-sheath yarn length difference cannot be obtained and bulkiness is poor. The hot water shrinkage rate of the polyester multifilament constituting the sheath is preferably -5% to 5%.

The polyester multifilament core and sheath used in the blended yarn of the present invention contain colloidal silica with an average primary particle diameter of 0.02 to 0.1 μm. If the average primary particle diameter of the colloidal silica is outside the above range, the colloidal silica near the fiber surface falls off during the weight reduction process, making it impossible to generate microvoids on the fiber surface, and the reflected light is not reduced, making it impossible to improve the black color development. The average primary particle diameter of the colloidal silica is preferably in the range of 0.02 to 0.07 μm. The size of the microvoids depends on the size of the fine particles and is approximately the same as the average particle diameter of the fine particles.

The average primary particle size in this invention refers to the value measured by measuring the circumscribed diameter of particles using a particle size analyzer (LA-700) manufactured by Horiba, Ltd., with an n value of 50.

The colloidal silica preferably used in the present invention is a material whose main component is silicon oxide, and in which the particles exist as single particles and exist as a colloid in the form of a dispersion medium of water, monohydric alcohols, diols, or a mixture of these.

The polyester multifilament of the mixed yarn used in the present invention may include, but is not limited to, polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, etc., and may be, for example, a fiber obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid sulfonate, adipic acid, isophthalic acid, polyethylene glycol, etc., or a fiber obtained by blending these copolymers or polyethylene glycol. These fibers may be used alone or in combination of two or more. Among them, polyethylene terephthalate is preferred because of its excellent physical properties and low cost availability.

The filament cross section of the polyester multifilament is not particularly limited, and may be circular or have an irregular cross section. Examples of irregular cross sections include multi-lobed cross sections such as H-shape, X-shape, Y-shape, W-shape, and cross-shape, and polygonal cross sections such as triangles, squares, pentagons, hexagons, and octagons with deep grooves, and may have any shape. Among these, a circular cross section is preferable because it is inexpensive.

Next, the manufacturing method of the mixed yarn will be described. First, polyester multifilament containing colloidal silica with an average primary particle diameter of 0.02 to 0.1 μm is supplied as the core of the mixed yarn, and is stretched by a feed roller while being heat-treated by a hot pin. Next, it is stretched at a fixed ratio by a feed roller while being heat-treated non-contact by a hollow heater. On the other hand, polyester multifilament containing colloidal silica with an average primary particle diameter of 0.02 to 0.1 μm is supplied as the sheath, and is stretched by a feed roller while being heat-treated by a hot pin. Next, it is heat-treated non-contact by a hollow heater, and is heat-treated at a fixed length by a feed roller or over-fed to perform a relaxation heat treatment. The heat treatment by the heater can be either a fixed length heat treatment or a relaxation heat treatment. Next, the heat-treated core yarn and sheath yarn are entangled to obtain an air-entangled yarn.

The entanglement method is preferably air entanglement, in which high-pressure air is applied to the running core yarn and sheath yarn to partially mix and entangle the filaments, forming an interlaced yarn, or taslan processing is performed to form loops by feeding the yarn into a turbulent nozzle with different amounts of yarn fed, forming a taslan-processed yarn. In particular, taslan processing is preferable from the viewpoint of forming a core-sheath structure.

The total fineness of the blended yarn used in the present invention is preferably 50 to 300, more preferably 80 to 250, in terms of thickness and stiffness for formal wear.

The mixed fiber yarn of the present invention is a twisted yarn, and preferably has a twist coefficient of 12,000 to 30,000. If it is within the above range, the mixed fiber yarn has excellent outer layer quality, excellent stiffness, and no risk of interfering with weaving.

The twist coefficient K is expressed by the following formula:

K = T x D ^1/2
Here, K is the twist coefficient, T is the number of twists per unit length (T/m), and D is the fineness (dtex).

Next, we will explain the fabric made from the above blended yarn.

When the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is made into a woven fabric, the mixed fiber yarn is arranged in some or all of the warp and/or weft threads, and it is preferable that the mixed fiber yarn is arranged in all of the warp and/or weft threads, and it is more preferable that the mixed fiber yarn is arranged in all of the warp or weft threads from the viewpoint of achieving both excellent black coloring and bulkiness as a formal garment.

When the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is used as a woven fabric, the form is not particularly limited, and preferred are plain, twill, satin, and plain double, twill double, warp double, back satin, and other woven fabrics. When the fabric is used as a knitted fabric, preferred are circular knits such as jersey, milling, and punch, and warp knits such as tricot, half, and denby. Of these, plain double woven fabrics are more preferred from the viewpoint of quality as formal clothing.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a fabric-like material, and may have any structure or shape, such as a belt-like material or a string-like material.

The dyeing and finishing of the woven and knitted fabrics of the present invention may be carried out by general processes, for example, by continuous desizing and scouring, followed by drying and setting, weight reduction, dyeing with a liquid jet dyeing machine, printing, adding finishing agents such as water repellents and deep color agents, and finishing and setting. The same processes are adopted for all types of woven fabrics, and the dyeing conditions may be selected according to the material. The woven fabric may be added with finishing agents such as fluorine-based, silicone-based, or paraffin-based water repellents, as well as softeners, antistatic agents, water absorbents, and antibacterial and deodorizing agents.

In the manufacturing method of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the weight is reduced by 10 to 30% by weight in the alkali weight reduction process. The weight reduction rate is preferably 15 to 25% by weight. If the weight reduction rate exceeds 30% by weight, cracks may occur in the polyester multifilament, resulting in a decrease in strength. On the other hand, if the weight reduction rate is less than 10% by weight, microvoids may not be formed sufficiently.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a brightness L value of 7.0 to 12.0 after dyeing.

The present invention can also be usefully used as a textile product using the woven or knitted fabric.

In the present invention, the yarn is preferably used as clothing, particularly as formal wear such as jackets, slacks, and skirts. By satisfying the above brightness, the yarn will have an excellent and elegant appearance as formal clothing, particularly black formal clothing. The brightness can be achieved by selecting a black dye and using the processed yarn with a strong twist. It is also preferable to carry out a deep dyeing process using a deep dyeing agent.

The present invention is not limited to the following examples. The performance in the examples was evaluated according to the following methods.

(Hot water shrinkage rate)
From the blended yarn, 6 cm of each of the polyester multifilament core and sheath are taken out to prepare samples. The samples are marked at 5 cm intervals under a load of 0.1 g/dtex, wrapped in gauze, and heat-treated at 98°C for 30 minutes without tension. The samples are then taken out and air-dried for 24 hours, and again under a load of 0.1 g/dtex, the developed crimp is completely stretched, and the interval (L) of the marks made before the heat treatment is read, and the hot water shrinkage of the polyester multifilament core and sheath is expressed by the following formula:

Hot water shrinkage rate (%) = {(5-L)/5} x 100
(Fineness)
Measurement was performed in accordance with JIS-L-1013 (2010) 8.3.1 B method.

(Number of twists)
Measurement was performed in accordance with JIS-L-1013 (2010) 7.2.2.

(Weave density)
Measurement was performed in accordance with JIS-L-1096 (2010) 8.6.1 A method.

(Metsuke)
Measurement was performed in accordance with JIS-L-1096 (2010) 8.3.2 A method.

(Color development)
The L value was measured using a colorimeter CM-2600d manufactured by Konica Minolta, Inc. A lower L value indicates better color development.

(Bulkiness)
The bulkiness was evaluated by a sensory panel of 10 experts and judged according to the following criteria.

◎: Good bulkiness, ○: Equivalent to general woven fabrics, ×: Not excellent in bulkiness.

(Appearance quality)
The appearance quality was evaluated by a sensory panel of 10 experts and judged according to the following criteria.

◎: Elegant appearance and sufficient firmness; ○: Either elegant appearance or sufficient firmness; ×: Neither appearance nor texture is excellent.

[Example 1]
A polymer made of polyethylene terephthalate containing 1.0% by weight of colloidal silica having an average primary particle size of 0.05 μm was spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 m/min to obtain a highly oriented, undrawn polyester multifilament having 90 dtex/48 filaments (round cross section) and an elongation of 150%.

Next, the polyester multifilament was supplied as the core and sheath, respectively, and mixed according to the manufacturing conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a mixed yarn having the mixed yarn properties shown in Table 1.

Next, the resulting mixed yarn was twisted to a twist number of 2,000 T/m and a twist coefficient of 25,300 to produce a flat double-layered fabric, which was used as the warp and weft yarns. After scouring, drying, and intermediate setting in the usual manner, the fabric was immersed in a solution containing sodium hydroxide adjusted to a concentration of 3% and subjected to a 20% alkali weight reduction treatment. It was then dyed and dried in the usual manner, and resin-treated using a deep coloring agent to improve the brightness, and finish-set to obtain a processed fabric with a warp density of 151 threads/2.54 cm and a weft density of 106 threads/2.54 cm. The fiber surfaces of the core and sheath of the mixed yarn were microvoids due to the loss of colloidal silica. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[Example 2]
After obtaining a mixed yarn under the same conditions as in Example 1, a flat double weave fabric was woven using a strong twist yarn with a twist number of 1,600 T/m and a twist coefficient of 20,240 as the warp and weft. Next, after performing scouring, drying, and intermediate setting in a conventional manner, the fabric was immersed in a solution adjusted to a sodium hydroxide concentration of 3% and subjected to a 20% alkali weight reduction treatment, and then dyed and dried in a conventional manner. In addition, resin processing was performed using a deep coloring agent to improve the brightness, and finish setting was performed to obtain a processed fabric with a warp density of 178 threads/2.54 cm and a weft density of 124 threads/2.54 cm. The fiber surfaces of the core and sheath of the mixed yarn were woven with microvoids due to the loss of colloidal silica. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[Example 3]
After obtaining a polyester multifilament similar to that in Example 1, the core and sheath were supplied separately and mixed according to the production conditions in Table 1, which were different from those in Example 1, to obtain a mixed yarn having the mixed yarn properties shown in Table 1.

Next, the resulting mixed yarn was twisted to a twist number of 2,000 T/m and a twist coefficient of 25,300 to produce a flat double-layered fabric, which was used as the warp and weft yarns. After scouring, drying, and intermediate setting in the usual manner, the fabric was immersed in a solution containing sodium hydroxide adjusted to a concentration of 3% and subjected to a 20% alkali weight reduction treatment. It was then dyed and dried in the usual manner, and resin-treated using a deep coloring agent to improve the brightness, and finish-set to obtain a processed fabric with a warp density of 151 threads/2.54 cm and a weft density of 106 threads/2.54 cm. The fiber surfaces of the core and sheath of the mixed yarn were microvoids due to the loss of colloidal silica. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[Comparative Example 1]
The core of Example 1 was changed to a polyester filament of 22 dtex/24 filaments (round cross section) which was spun at a spinning speed of 1700 m/min using polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 8 mol % isophthalic acid and then heat-drawn at 130°C. The filaments were mixed under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain a mixed yarn having the mixed yarn properties shown in Table 1.

Next, the resulting blended yarn was twisted to a twist number of 2,600 T/m and a twist coefficient of 28,720 to produce a flat double weave fabric, which was then used as the warp and weft yarns. The fabric was then dyed and dried in the usual manner, and resin-treated with a deep coloring agent to improve brightness, and then finished and set to produce a fabric used in general formal clothing with a warp density of 186 threads/2.54 cm and a weft density of 135 threads/2.54 cm, making Comparative Example 1. As shown in Table 1, the resulting processed fabric had poor black coloring and was not satisfactory in bulkiness. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[Comparative Example 2]
The core of Example 1 was changed to a polyester filament of 90 dtex/48 filaments (round cross section) which was obtained by spinning polyethylene terephthalate not containing colloidal silica at a spinning speed of 3,000 m/min and then heat-drawing it at 130°C. The filaments were mixed under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain a mixed yarn having the mixed yarn properties shown in Table 1.

Next, the resulting blended yarn was twisted to a twist number of 2,000 T/m and a twist coefficient of 25,300 to produce a flat double-layered fabric, which was used as the warp and weft. The fabric was then dyed and dried in the usual manner, and resin-treated with a deep coloring agent to improve brightness, and finished and set to produce a fabric used in general formal clothing with a warp density of 151 threads/2.54 cm and a weft density of 106 threads/2.54 cm, making Comparative Example 1. As shown in Table 1, the resulting processed fabric had poor black coloring and was not satisfactory in bulkiness. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

The fabric of the present invention has a refined appearance with excellent black coloring and excellent bulkiness, making it suitable for producing formal clothing products.

Claims (6)

The mixed yarn is made by using polyester multifilaments containing colloidal silica having an average primary particle size of 0.02 to 0.1 μm as a core and a sheath, characterized in that the hot water shrinkage rate of the core polyester multifilaments (excluding those having a single fiber fineness of 1 dtex or less) is 18 % to 30%, and the hot water shrinkage rate of the sheath polyester multifilaments is 5% or less. The blended yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that it is twisted with a twist multiplier of 12,000 to 30,000. A woven or knitted fabric characterized by using the blended yarn according to claim 1 or 2. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 3, characterized in that the lightness (L value) is 7.0 to 12.0. The method for producing the woven or knitted fabric according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that microvoids are formed in the core and sheath of the mixed yarn that ultimately constitutes the woven or knitted fabric by reducing the weight by 10 to 30% by weight in an alkali weight reduction step during dyeing processing. Black formal clothing characterized by being made of the woven or knitted fabric described in claim 3 or 4.