JP4846086B2 - Polyester filament knitted fabric and apparel and curtains made of the woven fabric - Google Patents

Description

[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a polyester filament woven or knitted fabric with a watermark.
[0002]
[Prior art]
In recent years, many woven or knitted fabrics with a watermark pattern made of polyester filaments have been proposed instead of woven or knitted fabrics with a watermark pattern using cotton or rayon. This is due to the excellent fiber properties of the polyester filament and the good stability in the removal process. For example, a method of printing with an alkali-containing release adhesive (Japanese Patent Publication No. 53-44600), a method of alkali weight reduction using two or more yarns having different alkali weight reduction rates (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 56-90673). JP, 56-165083, JP 58-23965, Japanese Patent No. 2694712, etc.), and a method in which an alkali weight loss accelerator is preliminarily attached before alkali weight reduction processing (Japanese Patent No. 2632548). , Japanese Patent No. 2699106, and the like, and further, a method of improving designability by a combination of a release process and textile printing (Japanese Patent Laid-Open Nos. 6-136673, 6-212581, etc.) A method using a design yarn as a constituent yarn of a knitted fabric (JP 57-128285 A, JP 5-263375 A, etc.) has been proposed.
[0003]
However, although it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric with a watermark pattern by either method, the contrast between the watermark portion and the non-watermark portion is unclear and the visual vividness, the so-called visual sense in the industry is lacking. There is a problem.
[0004]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention has been solved by optically verifying such conventional problems, and an object of the present invention is to make a visual feeling with a clear contrast between a more transparent portion and a less transparent portion made of a polyester filament. It is an object of the present invention to provide a polyester filament woven or knitted fabric with a watermark pattern and a clothing and curtain made of the woven or knitted fabric.
[0005]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The gist of the present invention is that a woven or knitted fabric composed of two or more kinds of polyester filament yarns having different alkali weight reduction speed and single yarn fineness is subjected to an alkali weight reduction treatment, and the woven / knitted surface is composed of a pattern-patterned portion A and a portion B. The portion A is a woven or knitted fabric, and the portion A is composed of monofilaments having a low alkali weight loss rate and a high fineness, and has an average visible light transmittance of 45% or more. A polyester filament woven or knitted fabric with a watermark, characterized in that the rate is smaller by 15% or more, and clothing and curtains made of the woven or knitted fabric.
[0006]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
In the present invention, the portion A is a portion having an average visible light transmittance of 45% or more, and the portion B is a portion having an average visible light transmittance of 15% or more smaller than that of the portion A. A watermark pattern such as a pattern or a character is formed by combining the portion A having a high average transmittance of visible light and the portion B having a low average transmittance of visible light.
[0007]
In the present invention, in the woven or knitted fabric surface, the portion A having a high average visible light transmittance has an average visible light transmittance of 45% or more, and the portion B other than the portion A is relatively more than the portion A. It is necessary to obtain a watermark pattern with clear contrast that the average transmittance of visible light is small and the average transmittance difference of visible light is 15% or more from the portion A.
[0008]
If the portion A has an average visible light transmittance of less than 45% and the difference between the average transmittance of the visible light of the portion A and the average transmittance of the visible light of the portion B is less than 15%, the watermark pattern with unclear contrast Can only be obtained. Further, in the present invention, it is necessary for the portion A to occupy 80 to 20% of the total area of the knitted or knitted fabric in order to obtain a watermark pattern with a clear contrast, and the portion A is 20% of the total area of the woven or knitted fabric. If it is less than%, the contrast effect is not sufficiently exhibited, and if the portion A exceeds 80% of the total area of the knitted or knitted fabric, the strength of the woven or knitted fabric tends to be lowered and cannot be practically used.
[0009]
In the present invention, the average transmittance of visible light is measured with a spectrophotometer under the condition of sample: one piece of woven or knitted fabric, standard white plate: barium sulfate, slit width: 20 mm, measurement wavelength region: 400 to 1200 nm. The visible light transmittances at the transparent part and the transparent part are measured, and the average value of the measured values is defined as the average transmittance. When there is a colored part in the same part of the part with a large or less transparent part of the sample, the measurement is performed with the same color part.
[0010]
In addition, the area ratio of the portion A where the average transmittance of visible light is 45% or more is measured by taking a copy copy at an equal magnification using a copying machine with a woven or knitted fabric without a wrinkle, and taking out one repeating unit of the pattern. The dark portion is cut with scissors, the weight of the dark portion with respect to the weight of one repeating unit of the pattern is measured, and the area ratio is obtained. If one repeat unit does not fit in one copy, the copy is taken in multiple copies. The area ratio is obtained as an average value of five measurements.
[0011]
In the present invention, the portion A having an average visible light transmittance of 45% or more on the woven or knitted surface may be one in which the average visible light transmittance is increased depending on the number or fineness of the constituent filament yarns. The portion B having a lower average transmittance of visible light than A is composed of two or more types of polyester filament yarns, preferably two or more types of polyester filament yarns having different alkali weight loss rates, and the portion A is composed of at least one less filament yarn than the portion B It is preferable that it is configured and formed.
[0012]
Further, in the present invention, it is preferable that at least a portion A having a visible light average transmittance of 45% or more of the knitted or knitted fabric is composed of a monofilament in order to express a clearer contrast. This is because, in the multifilament, since the filaments are aggregated, light is easily scattered on the surface of the multifilament, the transmission of visible light is reduced, and the contrast with the portion B is hindered. The monofilament is preferably a monofilament having a fineness of 10 dtex or more, more preferably 20 dtex or more.
[0013]
Such a polyester monofilament may be a monofilament directly produced by spinning, a monofilament obtained by splitting from a multifilament having a large single fiber fineness, a so-called split yarn, or a Woolley-processed Woolley split yarn.
[0014]
The polyester filament yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a polyester filament yarn having terephthalic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof as an acid component and ethylene glycol as a glycol component, particularly a polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn or polyethylene terephthalate having a low alkali weight loss rate. Copolymerized with aliphatic dicarboxylic acid such as adipic acid, aromatic dicarboxylic acid derivative such as sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, polyethylene glycol or the like as a third component, or blended with third component such as polyethylene glycol or organic sulfonic acid metal salt A polyester filament yarn made of a modified polyethylene terephthalate having a high alkali weight loss rate is preferred.
[0015]
Further, in order to obtain a watermark pattern having a clear contrast, it is extremely preferable that the cover factor K of the woven or knitted fabric is 200 to 1000 for the woven fabric and 100 to 600 for the knitted fabric, and the cover factor K for the woven fabric is less than 200. Alternatively, if the cover factor K in the knitted fabric is less than 100, slip or misalignment occurs in the woven knitted fabric, and if the cover factor K in the woven fabric exceeds 1000 or the cover factor K in the knitted fabric exceeds 600, the eyes are clogged too much. As a result, a watermark pattern with clear contrast cannot be obtained.
[0016]
The woven fabric cover factor K is the sum of the woven fabric warp and weft cover factors and is determined by the woven fabric density ([number of yarns / cm] × √yarn fineness (decitex)). The cover factor K of the knitted fabric is obtained in the same manner. When yarns having different fineness are arranged, the weighted average value is used as the fineness.
[0017]
The following method is preferably used as a method for producing a polyester filament woven or knitted fabric with a watermark according to the present invention.
That is, in the polyester filament woven or knitted fabric with a watermark pattern of the present invention, a knitted or knitted fabric composed of two or more kinds of polyester filament yarns having different alkali weight reduction rates is obtained by partially converting a filament yarn having a high alkali weight reduction rate by alkali weight reduction treatment. By dissolving and removing, a portion A having an average visible light transmittance of 45% or more and a portion B having an average visible light transmittance of 15% or more smaller than the portion A are obtained.
[0018]
In the configuration of the woven or knitted fabric, two or more types of polyester filament yarns having different alkali weight loss rates and single yarn fineness are used, and two or more types of filament yarns are formed as a composite yarn to form a woven or knitted fabric, or arranged, woven, knitted Thus, a woven / knitted fabric is formed. Two or more types of filament yarns having different alkali weight reduction rates and single yarn finenesses are preferably present simultaneously on the woven or knitted fabric without causing the filament yarns to be unevenly distributed.
[0019]
When two or more kinds of filament yarns are used as composite yarns, composite yarns may be formed by twisting. However, when forming a watermark pattern, a portion A having a large average transmittance of visible light and a small average transmittance of visible light are small. In order to suppress the deterioration of the product quality due to the dispersion of the yarn end at the boundary of the part B, and further to improve the process passability, it is mixed into a composite yarn by interlace processing or air turbulence processing, and more It is preferable to twist the yarn in a twist of 15 times / m or more.
[0020]
As the two or more types of polyester filament yarns having different alkali weight loss rates used in the production of the polyester filament woven or knitted fabric with a watermark pattern of the present invention, the filament having the smallest alkali weight loss rate of the two or more types of polyester filament yarns is used. It is preferable that at least a combination of filament yarns having a difference of two times or more in alkali reduction rate between the yarn and the filament yarn having the largest alkali reduction rate is included.
[0021]
The polyester filament yarn used in the production of the polyester filament woven or knitted fabric with a watermark of the present invention is a polyester filament yarn having terephthalic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof as a main acid component and ethylene glycol as a main glycol component, and has an alkali weight loss. As a filament yarn having a low speed, typically, a polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn, a filament yarn having a high alkali weight loss rate, typically, an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid such as adipic acid or an aromatic dicarboxylic acid such as sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. Filament made of modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with acid derivative, polyethylene glycol or the like as third component, or blended with third component such as polyethylene glycol or organic sulfonic acid metal salt It is used.
[0022]
The alkali weight loss rate varies depending on the structural state of polyethylene terephthalate, and also increases as the degree of modification increases, depending on the type and amount of the third component to be copolymerized or blended.
[0023]
In the present invention, the portion A where the average transmittance of visible light on the woven or knitted fabric surface is 45% or more is composed of a monofilament alone, so that the watermark having a clear contrast with the portion A having a large transparency and the portion B having a small transparency. Since it is preferable in obtaining a pattern, it is preferable to use a monofilament made of polyethylene terephthalate having a low alkali weight loss rate as the monofilament.
[0024]
When two or more types of polyester filament yarns having different alkali weight reduction rates are used and in the state of the composite yarn as described above, or when knitted by arranging and knitting, a cover factor K of the woven / knitted fabric is a woven fabric. Weaving and knitting to a yarn density of 200 to 1000 and 100 to 600 for the knitted fabric.
[0025]
As a method for forming a watermark pattern in the present invention, two or more types of polyester filament yarns having different alkali weight reduction rates are arranged, or a mixed yarn of two or more types of polyester filament yarns having different alkali weight reduction rates is used. Weaving and adhering a paste containing an alkali weight loss accelerator such as diethylenetriamine to any pattern such as a pattern or letter by printing, etc., and performing an alkali weight loss treatment with caustic soda, which is applied to ordinary polyester filament knitted fabrics For example, a method of performing a heat treatment and applying a paste containing an alkali to an arbitrary pattern such as a pattern or a character by printing or the like, followed by wet heat treatment is used.
[0026]
In alkali weight loss treatment, the polyester filament yarn with the highest alkali weight loss rate is more alkaline than the polyester filament yarn with the lowest alkali weight loss rate, and the multifilament filament with the smaller single yarn fineness is more alkaline than the monofilament with the higher fineness. by the Rukoto it is very rapidly dissolved抜触smallest polyester filament yarn with a large monofilament remaining part of the fineness of the alkali reduction rate by the caustic treatment is formed as a large portion a of the transparent, by caustic treatment The portion that has not been melted and removed is formed as a portion B having a small transparency.
[0027]
When forming the dissolution contact portion, the average weight of visible light in the dissolution contact portion is 45% or more due to the adhesive weight loss treatment including the alkali weight loss accelerator and the alkali weight loss accelerator prior to the alkali weight loss treatment. The polyester filament yarn having the largest alkali weight loss rate is sufficiently dissolved and removed. In particular, when the polyester filament yarn having the smallest alkali weight reduction rate remaining in the dissolution contact portion is a monofilament, it is possible to easily form the portion A having an average visible light transmittance of 45% or more. The dissolution contact portion is formed so as to occupy 80 to 20% of the total area of the woven or knitted fabric.
[0028]
The polyester filament woven or knitted fabric with a watermark according to the present invention can be appropriately dyed and used as a garment such as a ladies' blouse or a dress. It has a contrasting watermark pattern. Further, the polyester filament woven or knitted fabric with a watermark according to the present invention is also suitable as an interior material, and the curtain formed by subjecting the polyester filament woven or knitted fabric with the watermark according to the present invention to flameproofing has a watermark with clear contrast. It has a pattern and is visually excellent.
[0029]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples. In the examples, the average transmittance of visible light was measured using a spectrophotometer UV-3101PC and an integrating sphere MPC-3100 manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation.
[0033]
( Example 1 )
56 decitex / 36 filament filament yarn (raw yarn A) made from polyethylene terephthalate containing 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide, using 22 dtex / 1 filament polyethylene terephthalate wooly split yarn (raw yarn C) as a warp A filament of 84 dtex / 48 filaments (raw yarn B) made from polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 5.3 mol% of 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid is aligned, with an overfeed rate of 0.6% and an air pressure of 0 An interlace process was performed under the condition of 3 MPa to give an interlaced portion of 60 pieces / m to obtain a composite yarn, and this composite yarn was twisted at 800 times / m to obtain a weft.
[0034]
Using these warps and wefts, a woven fabric was woven into a plain structure. This woven fabric was scoured and set, and a paste containing diethylenetriamine was applied in a pattern shape so that the pattern portion occupied 60% of the area of the fabric surface, followed by dry heat treatment, saturated steam heat treatment, and water washing. Next, the alkali was reduced in a boiling aqueous solution of 10 g / liter of caustic soda for 30 minutes, neutralized and dried, and then subjected to flameproofing using a hexabromocyclododecane flameproofing agent.
[0035]
The obtained woven fabric was a woven fabric in which a pattern-like watermark pattern occupying 60% of the area of the fabric surface was formed by removing the yarn B of the handle portion attached with diethylenetriamine. In addition, this fabric has an average visible light transmittance of 83% in the transparent portion where the watermark is shown, and an average visible light transmittance of 41% in the transparent portion other than the watermark portion. The portion having a warp density of 45 yarns / cm of the raw yarn C, a weft density of 44 yarns / cm of the remaining raw yarn A remaining after reduction , and a cover factor K of 417 (warp cover factor K211) Cover factor K206). When the curtain was sewn with the obtained woven fabric, the contrast between the pattern-like transparent pattern part and the part with a small transparency was clear, and the pattern-like watermark was clearly expressed with a visual feeling. In addition, this curtain was measured in accordance with JIS L1091, and flame resistance was measured, but it was 4 times by 45 ° coil method, afterflame time was 0 seconds, afterdust time was 0 seconds, and carbonized area was 5 cm ^2. It was.
[0036]
(Example 3)
A 56 dtex / 48 filament filament yarn (original yarn D) made from polyethylene terephthalate was twisted to 2500 times / m with a double twister, and twisted with a steam set at 80 ° C. for 40 minutes to obtain a twisted yarn. On the other hand, a filament yarn (original yarn B) of 84 dtex / 48 filaments made from polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 5.3 mol% of 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid was retwisted at 1000 times / m to obtain a twisted yarn. The warp was warped as a warp of a woven fabric with a repeated arrangement of one twisted yarn of the original yarn D and two twisted yarns of the original yarn B. When the time until the raw yarn D and the raw yarn B were completely dissolved in a 10 g / liter aqueous solution of caustic soda was measured, the alkali weight reduction rate of the raw yarn B was 16 times that of the raw yarn D.
[0037]
On the other hand, for the weft, a 56-dtex / 48 filament yarn made from polyethylene terephthalate has a boiling water shrinkage of -1%, a spontaneously stretchable filament yarn (raw yarn E), and a polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 8 mol% isophthalic acid. A different shrinkage mixed yarn of the 110 decitex / 48 filament with a highly shrinkable filament yarn (raw yarn F) having a boiling water shrinkage of 17% was used.
[0038]
Using these warp and weft, weaving into a twill structure was made into a woven fabric. A paste containing diethylenetriamine was attached to this woven fabric in the same manner as in Example 1 so that the pattern portion occupies 56% of the area of the fabric surface, and treated with dry heat at 130 ° C. for 2 minutes. , Treated with saturated steam at 120 ° C. for 20 minutes and washed with water. Subsequently, it was subjected to alkali reduction treatment for 30 minutes in a boiling aqueous solution of 10 g / liter of caustic soda, neutralized and dried. Thereafter, dyeing and flameproofing were performed according to conventional methods.
[0039]
The obtained woven fabric was a woven fabric on which a pattern-like watermark pattern occupying 56% of the total area of the woven fabric was formed by removing the base yarn B of the handle portion attached with diethylenetriamine. In addition, this fabric has an average visible light transmittance of 52% in a transparent portion showing a watermark pattern, and an average visible light transmittance of 34% in a portion with a small transparency other than the watermark pattern portion. The cover factor K of the part exhibiting was 407 (the cover factor K155 for the longitude, the cover factor K252 for the weft). Further, when the obtained woven fabric was used as a curtain, the contrast between the pattern-like transparent pattern portion and the portion with a small transparency was clear and the pattern-like watermark pattern was clearly expressed.
[0042]
【The invention's effect】
The polyester filament woven or knitted fabric with a watermark of the present invention has a watermark pattern in which the contrast between the part with a large sheer and the part with a small sheer is clear and rich in visual feeling, and the polyester filament with the watermark in the present invention The garments and curtains made of woven and knitted fabrics have a high-class feeling and a visual feeling, taking advantage of the clear contrast between the transparent part and the non-transparent part.

Claims (5)

A woven or knitted fabric composed of two or more kinds of polyester filament yarns having different alkali weight reduction rates and single yarn finenesses , and subjected to an alkali weight reduction treatment. Part A is composed of monofilaments having a low alkali weight loss rate and a high fineness, and has an average visible light transmittance of 45% or more, and part B has an average visible light transmittance of 15% or more lower than that of part A. Polyester filament woven or knitted fabric with a watermark. Among two or more types of polyester filament yarns with different alkali weight loss rates and single yarn fineness , polyester filament yarns with low alkali weight loss rate are multifilaments of polyethylene terephthalate, monofilaments with fineness of 10 dtex or more, polyester filament yarns with high alkali weight loss rate 2. The polyester filament according to claim 1, which is a multifilament of modified polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, an aromatic dicarboxylic acid derivative or polyethylene glycol, or blending polyethylene glycol or an organic sulfonic acid metal salt. Woven knitting. The polyester filament woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the portion A occupies 20 to 80% of the area of the woven or knitted fabric surface .   A garment comprising the polyester filament woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, 2 or 3.   A curtain comprising the polyester filament woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, 2 or 3.