JP6734437B2 - Crimped yarn, extra fine deep dyeing yarn, chamois woven fabric containing extra fine deep dyeing yarn, and method for producing crimped yarn - Google Patents

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a crimped yarn, an extra fine deep dyeing processed yarn, a chamois-like woven fabric containing the extra fine deep dyeing processed yarn, and a method for producing a crimped yarn.

Due to the trend toward higher grades in the field of women's clothing these days, there is a demand for processed yarns that have excellent darkness when used in textiles and that can exhibit a chamois texture (smoothness, refined coat, and supple texture). Has been done. Further, in order to obtain a fabric excellent in deep dyeing property and texture, it has been variously studied to use a polyester composite undrawn yarn.

For example, Patent Document 1 describes that a composite yarn containing a polyester composite fiber is heat-treated. Such a composite yarn is excellent in color developability and dyeing fastness.

Further, Patent Document 2 describes a method in which a polyester composite undrawn yarn is drawn and false-twisted and then entangled. By such a method, it is possible to manufacture a false-twisted yarn that can form a fabric that is excellent in bulge and softness, and is excellent in surface quality and friction characteristics.

JP 2002-194634 A JP, 2009-12103, A

However, even if the technique described in Patent Document 1 is used, a chamois texture cannot be achieved. Further, even if the method described in Patent Document 2 is used, the deep dyeing property of the false twisted yarn is not sufficient. In other words, it is still difficult to obtain a processed yarn for producing a woven fabric that can achieve both excellent deep dyeing properties and chamois texture.

The present invention solves the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art, and is a crimped yarn that becomes an extra fine deep dyed yarn after splitting, and when the extra fine deep dyed yarn is woven and dyed, A crimped yarn to obtain an extra fine deep dyed yarn that has excellent dyeability, can express a deep hue and tailoring, and can express a chamois texture (smoothness, elegant fur texture, and supple texture). The purpose is to provide.

The present inventors diligently studied to solve the above problems. As a result, the crimped yarn that has undergone a specific process (shrinkage heat treatment and draw false twisting process) has good deep dyeing properties after splitting, and can exhibit a chamois texture when formed into a woven fabric. The present invention has been completed based on the finding that it can be an ultrafine deep dyeing processed yarn. That is, the gist of the present invention is as follows.

(1) Polyester composite undrawn yarn is shrink-heat treated at a tension of 0.05 cN/dtex or less, a temperature of 140 to 160° C., and an overfeed rate of 0 to 30%, and then 1.15 to 1.4 times. Draw ratio of 27000 to 32000, false twisting temperature of 170 to 190° C., and draw false twisting with untwisting tension strength of 0.2 to 0.5 cN/dtex represented by the following formula (i). It is a crimped yarn that has been treated. This crimped yarn is split by an alkali weight reduction process to become an ultrafine deep dyeing processed yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.01 to 0.5 dtex.
Untwisting Tension Strength (cN/dtex)=Untwisting Tension (cN)/Actual Fineness (dtex) of Crimped Yarn after Stretching False Twisting (i)

(2) The crimped yarn according to (1), which is cold-drawn under a tension of 0.2 to 0.4 cN/dtex between the shrinkage heat treatment and the drawn false twisting process.
(3) An extra fine deep dyed yarn obtained by splitting the crimped yarn according to (1) or (2) by alkali reduction processing.

(4) A chamois woven fabric containing the ultrafine deep-dying processed yarn according to (3). The ultra fine deep dyeing processed yarn is arranged on a warp or a weft, or is arranged on any of the warp and the weft, and is additionally twisted in a twist coefficient K of 5,000 to 15,000. The chamois woven fabric has a cover factor of 2600 to 3200, is napped, and has an L ^* value of 16 or less when subjected to a black dyeing process.

(5) A method for producing crimped yarn. The polyester composite undrawn yarn is used as the supply yarn, and the following steps (I) and (II) are performed in this order on the polyester composite undrawn yarn.
(I) Step of heat-treating shrinkage at a tension of 0.05 cN/dtex or less, a temperature of 140 to 160° C., and an overfeed rate of 0 to 30% (II) 1.15 to 1.4 times draw ratio, 270000 to The crimped yarn is drawn by false twisting with a false twisting coefficient of 32000, a false twisting temperature of 170 to 190° C., and an untwisting tension strength of 0.2 to 0.5 cN/dtex represented by the following formula (i). Untwisting tension strength (cN/dtex)=untwisting tension (cN)/actual fineness (dtex) of the processed yarn after stretched false twist treatment (i)

(6) The method for producing a crimped yarn according to (5), which includes the following step (III) between the steps (I) and (II).
(III) A step of cold-drawing the polyester composite undrawn yarn under a tension of 0.2 to 0.4 cN/dtex

According to the present invention, when a woven fabric is subjected to a raising process, it is possible to express a deep hue excellent in deep dyeing and tailoring, and a crimped yarn which is an ultrafine deep dyeing processed yarn excellent in chamois texture. You can get good operability. Further, this crimped yarn is excellent in stretchability, and the extra fine deep dyeing processed yarn is good in quality without defects such as fluff.

It is a schematic diagram showing an example of the cross-sectional shape of a polyester composite undrawn yarn (wedge-shaped composite cross-sectional shape). It is the schematic which shows an example of the cross-sectional shape of the extra fine deep-dyeing processed yarn of this invention. It is the schematic which shows a part of manufacturing process of the crimped yarn of this invention.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The crimped yarn of the present invention is an ultrafine deep-dyed yarn that has been split by alkali reduction processing. Such ultrafine deep-dyed processed yarn has a single yarn fineness of 0.01 to 0.5 dtex and is excellent in deep-dyeing property, and therefore exhibits a deep shade when formed into a woven fabric. Furthermore, since this crimped yarn has excellent elasticity and proper elongation, when the woven fabric after splitting has a uniform coat, a soft texture and slimy feel are exhibited, and an excellent chamois tone is exhibited. ..

The fineness of the single yarn of the ultrafine deep-dying processed yarn after splitting is 0.01 to 0.5 dtex, preferably 0.1 to 0.3 dtex. The texture can be expressed. Further, the total fineness of the ultrafine deep dyeing processed yarn is preferably 50 to 160 dtex, the number of filaments is 100 to 10,000, and preferably 300 to 30,000.

The crimped yarn of the present invention is preferably one that has been subjected to a process (heat treatment for shrinkage, and then false twisting process) under specific conditions. Since it is difficult to show the constitution of the crimped yarn, the crimped yarn is expressed in the product-by-process claim format. In the present invention, as long as the crimped yarn is equivalent to the crimped yarn that has undergone the process under a specific condition, the crimped yarn does not include the above process.
This particular process is described below.

First, as an example of the supply yarn, a polyester composite undrawn yarn having a wedge-shaped composite cross-sectional shape can be mentioned. This polyester composite unstretched yarn is split by an alkali weight reduction process, which will be described later, and becomes a wedge-type ultrafine deep dyeing processed yarn. When the composite cross-sectional shape is a wedge type, compared to other composite cross-sectional shapes such as a sea-island type, the feeling of tension or stiffness when the finely-densely dyed yarn after splitting is formed into a woven fabric becomes good.

A schematic view of the cross-sectional shape of a polyester composite undrawn yarn having a wedge-shaped composite cross-sectional shape is shown in FIG. As shown in FIG. 1, the polyester composite unstretched yarn has an alkali sparingly soluble polyester component f and an alkali easily soluble polyester component g. Specifically, a plurality of alkali-insoluble polyester components f are joined by the alkali-soluble polyester component g, and the cross-sectional shape of the yarn is circular as a whole. The number of the alkali-insoluble polyester component f in the yarn cross section is preferably 6 to 15 in order to achieve a desired single yarn fineness and number of filaments after splitting.

The alkali-soluble polyester component functions as an adhesive for joining the alkali-insoluble polyester component. Then, by alkali reduction processing described below, the alkali-soluble polyester component is eluted, and the polyester composite undrawn yarn becomes an ultrafine fiber as shown in FIG. The mass ratio of the alkali-soluble polyester component and the alkali-poorly soluble polyester component in the polyester composite undrawn yarn (alkali-pourable polyester component/alkali-poorly soluble polyester component) is determined by adjusting the fineness of the ultrafine densely dyed yarn after alkali reduction to the above-mentioned value. In order to set the range, it is preferably 5/95 to 30/70.

The alkali sparingly soluble polyester component is not particularly limited as long as its solubility in an aqueous alkali solution is lower than the solubility of the alkali easily soluble polyester component. Moreover, it is preferable that the alkali elution rate using the aqueous alkaline solution is about 2 to 20 times slower than the alkali elution rate of the alkali-soluble polyester component. Examples of the alkali-insoluble polyester component include polyethylene terephthalate (PET).

The weight average molecular weight of the alkali-soluble polyester component is preferably 2000 to 10,000 because it is suitable for alkali weight loss. Specific examples of the alkali-soluble polyester component include a copolyester obtained by copolymerizing 10 to 30% by mass of polyethylene glycol and 1 to 3 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. Since this polyester has a high alkali weight loss rate and excellent thermal stability, splitting can be easily and stably performed.

To obtain the polyester composite undrawn yarn, for example, a polyester polymer (alkali-soluble polyester component and alkali-poorly soluble polyester component) is spun by a spinneret so that the cross-sectional shape becomes the composite shape shown in FIG. The conditions for spinning the polyester polymer are not particularly limited, but for example, spinning can be performed at a speed of 2000 to 4000 m/min.

The above-mentioned polyester polymer may contain a modifier (for example, a matting agent, a stabilizer, a flame retardant, or a coloring agent) within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. Further, various function-imparting components (for example, a cationic dye-dyeable component or a heat-shrinkable component) may be copolymerized or may be mixed and contained.

From the viewpoint of excellent processing operability, the elongation of the polyester composite undrawn yarn is preferably 100 to 120%, for example.

The crimped yarn of the present invention is obtained by subjecting a polyester composite undrawn yarn to the following (I) shrinkage heat treatment and (II) drawn false twisting treatment in this order. Then, the crimped yarn is split by alkali reduction processing to obtain an ultrafine densely dyed processed yarn. That is, the ultra-fine deep-dying processed yarn is a split multifilament yarn. The woven fabric containing the ultrafine deep-dying processed yarn of the present invention exhibits excellent deep-dyeing property, and further, when subjected to a raising process, exhibits an excellent chamois texture. That is, the extra fine deep-dyed processed yarn of the present invention is formed into a woven fabric by splitting a crimped yarn having a synergistic effect of (I) shrinkage heat treatment under a specific condition and (II) drawn false twisting process. In that case, the deep dyeing property is remarkably improved.

(I) A shrinkage heat treatment is performed under the conditions of a tension of 0.05 cN/dtex or less, a shrinkage temperature of 140 to 160° C., and an overfeed rate of 0 to 30%.
(II) 1.15 to 1.4 times draw ratio, false twisting coefficient of 27000 to 32000, false twisting temperature of 170 to 190° C., and 0.2 to 0.5 cN/dtex represented by the following formula (i). A crimped yarn is obtained by performing a draw false twisting process with the untwisting tension strength.
Untwisting Tension Strength (cN/dtex)=Untwisting Tension (cN)/Actual Fineness of Crimped Yarn after Stretching False Twisting (dtex) (i)

When (I) shrinkage heat treatment is performed under the above conditions, the thermal efficiency of the polyester composite undrawn yarn is improved, and the high crystallization and high orientation of the polyester are promoted. As a result, when it is made into an ultrafine deep dyeing processed yarn, it has an excellent deep dyeing property even though it is a microfiber.

When the shrinkage heat treatment temperature is 140 to 160° C., the strength of the extra fine deep dyeing processed yarn becomes stronger and the fluff is further reduced. Further, crystallization or orientation is sufficiently advanced, and the deep dyeing property is sufficient.

When the overfeed rate is 0 to 30%, the occurrence of thick and thin spots is suppressed in the subsequent drawing false twisting process, and a uniform crimped yarn is likely to be obtained. Alternatively, it is possible to suppress yarn breakage due to yarn run-out or slack during shrinkage heat treatment, which is more excellent in processing operability. Further, the yarn is not excessively stretched and has a sufficient elongation, which is excellent in deep dyeing property and nap feeling.

(I) In the shrinkage heat treatment, when the tension is 0.05 cN/dtex or less, the yarn is not in an excessively stretched state, so that the deep dyeing property is sufficient.

Stretchability and deep dyeability of the crimped yarn are improved by subjecting the yarn that has been subjected to shrinkage heat treatment in advance to (II) draw false twisting treatment under specific conditions. The false twist conditions are as follows: a draw ratio of 1.15 to 1.4 times, a false twist coefficient of 27000 to 32000, a false twist temperature of 170 to 190° C., and an untwisting strength of 0.2 to 0.5 cN/dtex. Is.

When the draw ratio is 1.15 to 1.4 times and the untwisting tension strength is 0.3 to 0.5 cN/dtex, yarn tension or fluff due to ballooning is suppressed because the tension is sufficient, and processing is performed. Superior in operability or quality. Further, it is excellent in napped feeling, deep dyeing property, and slimy feeling.

When the false twist coefficient is 27,000 to 32,000 and the false twist temperature is 170 to 190° C., crimping is likely to occur, so that the texture or the feeling of nap is sufficient. Further, it is excellent in stretchability, elongation and deep dyeing property. In addition, defects such as partial fusion, yarn breakage, and fluff are suppressed, and operability is improved. The crimped yarn preferably has an elongation of 90 to 130% and an elongation of 30 to 60%. When the elongation rate and the elongation are in the above ranges, the crimped yarn is obtained for obtaining an ultrafine deep dyeing processed yarn capable of exhibiting excellent deep dyeing property and chamois texture.

The crimped yarn is preferably subjected to (III) cold drawing treatment with a tension of 0.2 to 0.4 cN/dtex between the above (I) shrinkage heat treatment and (II) drawing false twisting treatment. (I) The shrink-heat treated yarn is subjected to (III) cold drawing treatment under the above-mentioned conditions to further improve the deep dyeing property and to make the yarn form which is non-uniform during shrinkage uniform. II) Stretching false twisting is stable. (III) When the tension during the cold drawing treatment is 0.2 to 0.4 cN/dtex, the yarn form becomes uniform, and yarn breakage due to looseness can be suppressed. Further, it is possible to suppress a decrease in slimy feeling. In addition, in order to perform the cold stretching treatment (III), a room temperature state is preferable, and for example, stretching may be performed while cooling at a temperature of about 20 to 30°C.

Regarding the alkali weight reduction processing, the conditions (for example, weight reduction time, bath ratio, weight reduction temperature, or weight reduction rate) are appropriately selected within a range where splitting can be performed, and are not particularly limited. The alkali weight reduction process may be performed directly on the crimped yarn (II) that has been subjected to the drawn false twisting treatment, or (II) a crimped yarn that has been subjected to the drawn false twisting treatment may be used to obtain a raw machine or the like. You may go.

Next, an example of the steps of the crimped yarn manufacturing method of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG.
With respect to the supply yarn Y (polyester composite unstretched yarn that becomes wedge-shaped after splitting), the heat treatment heater 2 installed between the supply roller 1 and the first take-up roller 3 makes it possible to obtain the specific value as described above. Shrink heat treatment is performed under the conditions ((I) Shrink heat treatment). Next, it is preferable to perform a cold stretching treatment between the first take-up roller 3 and the second take-up roller 4 with a tension of 0.2 to 0.4 cN/dtex, for example, at room temperature (about 25° C.) ( (III) Cold stretching treatment).

Continuously, draw false twisting treatment is performed under specific conditions between the second take-up roller 4 and the third take-up roller 7 using the false twist heater 5 and the pin type false twisting device 6 ((II ) Stretching false twisting process). As a result, a crimped yarn before splitting is obtained. The crimped yarn passes through the third take-up roller 7 and is taken up by the take-up roller 8 into the package 9.

The cross-sectional shape of the single yarn constituting the supply yarn Y is, for example, as shown in FIG. 1, an alkali sparingly soluble polyester component f is joined by an alkali easily soluble polyester component g. When the crimped yarn produced from the supplied yarn Y is dipped in an alkaline aqueous solution, and the alkali-soluble polyester component g is dissolved and removed by alkali reduction processing to split the fibers, a wedge-shaped cross section as shown in FIG. The extra fine deep dyeing processed yarn of the present invention is divided into a plurality of filament yarns having a shape.

The chamois-woven fabric of the present invention comprises the ultrafine deep-dying processed yarn of the present invention. In the chamois-woven fabric of the present invention, the ultrafine deep dyeing yarn is arranged on the warp or the weft, or on the warp and the weft. In the chamois woven fabric of the present invention, the mixing ratio of the ultrafine deep-dying processed yarn is preferably 55% or more, and more preferably 65% or more in order to obtain excellent deep-dyeability.

The chamois woven fabric of the present invention is further subjected to a raising process and a black dyeing process. The L ^* value in such a chamois woven fabric of the present invention is 16 or less, preferably 15 or less, and excellent deep dyeing properties are exhibited.

In the chamois-woven fabric of the present invention, the above-mentioned extra fine deep dyeing processed yarn is additionally twisted with a twist coefficient K in the range of 5000 to 15000. When the false twist coefficient K is in this range, a chamois woven fabric having an excellent slimy feel or a raised nap feel is obtained.

The cover factor of the chamois woven fabric of the present invention is 2600-3200. When the cover factor is within this range, a high-density woven fabric having an excellent chamois texture is obtained. When the cover factor of the woven fabric is less than 2600, the binding force of the woven fabric is weakened, the voids of the woven fabric are increased, the slimy feeling or the nap feeling is insufficient, and the chamois texture may not be obtained. Further, when the cover factor exceeds 3200, the density becomes excessively high, which may result in lack of slimy feel or nap feeling or hardening. In addition, in order to make the texture soft, it may be necessary to perform a separate weight reduction process or the like, and in such a case, the cost is increased or the productivity is lowered.

The design of the chamois woven fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited and is, for example, a flat design, a twill design, a satin design, or a modified design such as dobby or jacquard. Further, the textile may be subjected to various finishing processes such as a raising process and a black dyeing process (for example, softening process, antistatic process, or water repellent process). Further, in the chamois woven fabric of the present invention, an appropriate amount of fluff may be intentionally formed in order to further improve the texture.

An example of the method for producing the chamois-woven fabric of the present invention will be described below. The extra fine deep-dying processed yarn of the present invention as described above is subjected to additional twisting under a condition that the twist coefficient K is in the range of 5,000 to 15,000, using an appropriate method. Then, the extra fine deep dyeing processed yarn is arranged on a warp or a weft, or is arranged on the warp and the weft and woven to obtain a raw fabric. Alternatively, after the above crimped yarn is additionally twisted and woven, alkali reduction is performed to obtain a raw fabric. Then, raising processing and black dyeing processing are applied to this greige, so that the chamois-woven fabric of the present invention can be manufactured.

The condition or method for raising is not particularly limited as long as it can achieve an L ^* value of 16 or less, but, for example, a single roll type emery raising machine (for example, a raising machine covered with 320 mesh sandpaper) is used. be able to. The conditions or method for black dyeing are appropriately selected within a range capable of achieving an L ^* value of 16 or less.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. However, the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

In addition, the measurement and evaluation of each physical property were performed as follows.
(1) Fineness The fineness of the ultrafine deep dyeing processed yarns obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples was measured according to JIS L1013.

(2) Elongation With respect to the ultrafine deep dyeing processed yarns obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples, the elongation was measured according to JIS L1013.

(3) False Twisting Coefficient The false twisting coefficient was calculated by the following formula for the ultrafine densely dyed processed yarns obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples.
False twisting coefficient _{T W} = √ actual fineness of yarn (dtex) × number false twist (T / M)

(4) Untwisting Tension Strength With respect to the crimped yarns obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples, the untwisting tension strength was calculated by the following formula.
Untwisting Tension Strength (cN/dtex)=Untwisting Tension (cN)/Actual Fineness (dtex) of Crimped Yarn after Stretching False Twisting

(5) Elongation rate The elongation rate was measured according to JIS-L1013 8.11 (stretchability B method). Specifically, the crimped yarns obtained in the examples and comparative examples were hung on a rod to form a ring, and five pieces were prepared to prepare samples. A load of 0.882 mN×2×real fineness (dtex) was applied to each of these samples. Next, the five samples were put together, fixed at intervals of about 50 cm by tying them up and down with a cotton thread, immediately removing the load, and leaving it for a whole day and night. This was treated with hot water for 30 minutes. After air-drying, with the initial load of 0.0176 mN×10×actual fineness (dtex) applied, the upper part of the sample is clamped so that the measurement length becomes about 20 cm, and the sample length after 30 seconds (A) was measured. Next, the initial load was removed and a load of 0.882 mN×10×real fineness (dtex) was newly applied to measure the length (B) of the sample after 30 seconds. The elongation rate was calculated by the following formula.
Expansion rate (%)={(B−A)/A}×100

(6) Twist coefficient K
The twist coefficient K of the crimped yarn was calculated by the following formula.
Twist coefficient K = √ actual fineness of crimped yarn (dtex) x number of additional twists (T/M)

(7) L ^* value of extra fine deep dyed yarn (cylindrical knitting, black dyeing)
The crimped yarns obtained by the draw false twisting process in Examples and Comparative Examples were knitted into a tubular knitted fabric, and a scouring agent (manufactured by Nichika Kagaku Co., Ltd., trade name "Sanmor FL") was added at a rate of 2 g/liter. The tubular knitted fabric was scoured under the conditions of temperature of 80° C. and time of 20 minutes. Flake caustic soda was then used at a rate of 20 g/liter, temperature 98° C., time 30 minutes, and bath ratio 1:50.
Alkali weight loss processing was performed under the conditions of.

Then, dyeing was performed by the following method. Dyeing agent (manufactured by Dystar, trade name "Dianix Black HG-FS", disperse dye) at a ratio of 15% omf, a dyeing aid (manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd., trade name "Nikka Sunsalt SN-130"). ) Was used at a rate of 0.5 g/l and acetic acid at a rate of 0.2 cc/l. Dyeing was performed under the conditions of a bath ratio of 1:50, a temperature of 135° C., and a time of 30 minutes. Then, a reducing detergent (trade name “Bisnol P-55” manufactured by Yatasha Yushi Kogyo Co., Ltd.) was used at a rate of 5 g/liter, and washing was performed at a temperature of 80° C. for a time of 20 minutes.

For the tubular knitted fabric dyed as described above, the reflectance was measured using a spectrophotometer (manufactured by Macbeth Co., trade name “CE-3100 type”), and a density index was obtained from the color difference formula of CIE Lab, This value was defined as the L ^* value. The smaller the L ^* value, the deeper and deeper the color is.

(8) Quality of ultra-fine deep-dyed processed yarn The ultra-fine deep-dyed processed yarn was visually confirmed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
◯: No defects such as fluff or partial fusion were observed.
Poor: Defects such as fluff or partial fusion were observed.

(9) L ^* value of woven fabric The woven fabrics obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples were analyzed by a method similar to (7) above using a spectrophotometer (trade name "CE-3100" manufactured by Macbeth Co.). The L ^* value was determined.

(10) Cover factor (CF)
The cover factors of the woven fabrics obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples were calculated by the following formula.
CF=X√D1+Y√D2
In the above formula, X represents the number of warp yarns per inch of the woven fabric. Y represents the number of weft threads per inch of the woven fabric. D1 represents the actual fineness (dtex) of the warp that constitutes the woven fabric. D2 indicates the actual fineness (dtex) of the weft threads constituting the woven fabric.

(11) Numerous sensation With respect to the woven fabrics obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples, the slickness was evaluated by touch according to the following criteria.
◯: A smooth touch with a slimy feel.
Δ: A slimy feeling is normal.
X: The slimy feeling is insufficient.

(12) Dark dyeability (sensory evaluation)
The woven fabrics obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples were visually observed, and the deep dyeing property was evaluated according to the following criteria.
◯: The color tone is deep and the deep dyeing property is good.
Δ: The deep dyeing property is normal.
X: The color tends to be light and the deep dyeing property is insufficient.

(13) Standing feeling (raised feeling, coat)
With respect to the woven fabrics obtained in the examples and comparative examples, the feeling of napping was evaluated according to the following criteria.
◯: A nap feeling is good.
Δ: The nap feeling is normal.
X: The nap feeling is insufficient.

(14) Soft Feeling With respect to the woven fabrics obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples, the soft feeling was evaluated by the feel according to the following criteria.
◯: Soft to the touch.
Δ: The touch is normal.
X: Hard to the touch.

Example 1
A polyester composite unstretched yarn (110 dtex/48 filament) was prepared as a supply yarn. This polyester composite undrawn yarn was split fiber type and had a composite cross-sectional shape as shown in FIG. Specifically, eight alkali hardly soluble polyester components f are joined by the alkali easily soluble polyester component g (bonding agent), and their ratio (mass ratio) is (alkali slightly soluble polyester component f):(alkali easily soluble polyester). Component g)=4:1. The alkali-soluble polyester component g is mainly composed of a polyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 6.000 (13.3% by mass) and 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid (2.5 mol%). The alkali-poorly soluble polyester component f was composed mainly of polyethylene terephthalate. The elongation of this polyester composite undrawn yarn was 110%.

According to the process of FIG. 3, crimped yarn (92 dtex/48 filament) was obtained by performing (I) shrinkage heat treatment, (II) drawn false twisting process, and (III) cold drawing process under the conditions shown in Table 1.

Next, the obtained crimped yarn was S-twisted and additionally twisted at 800 T/M. This crimped yarn was used as a warp of a raw fabric. A side-by-side composite yarn (56 dtex/12 filament) composed of the first component and the second component was used as the weft yarn of the raw fabric. The first component was polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity: 0.63) obtained by copolymerizing 8 mol% of isophthalic acid and 5 mol% of 2.2-bis[4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)phenyl]propane. The second component was polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity: 0.53). This side-by-side type composite yarn was SZ-twisted and additionally twisted at 1500 T/M to set the twist-stop. A weft yarn was inserted at S:Z=1:1, and a satin fabric (warp yarn density: 220 yarns/2.54 cm, weft yarn density: 100 yarns/2.54 cm) was woven as a raw machine in a water jet loom. There was no trouble in the process of weaving, and good quality raw fabric was obtained.

The obtained raw machine was scoured (80° C. for 20 minutes), and alkali weight reduction processing was performed using caustic soda (weight reduction rate: 15 mass %). Next, heat shrinkage was developed by continuous relaxation (125° C. for 30 minutes) using a jet dyeing machine, and then preset (190° C. for 30 seconds). Then, raising processing was performed using a one-roll type emery raising machine (manufactured by Wakayama Iron Works Co., Ltd.) covered with sandpaper (320 mesh). Then, dyeing was performed using a disperse dye (manufactured by Dystar, trade name “Dyanics Black HG-FS”) at a rate of 10% omf (135° C. for 30 minutes). After this was dried, a finishing set (180° C. for 30 seconds) was performed to obtain a chamois-like woven fabric containing an ultrafine deep dyeing processed yarn. This chamois woven fabric was excellent in deep dyeing, and had a slimy feel, an elegant coat and a supple texture.

The evaluation results of Example 1 and Examples 2 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 12 described later are shown in Table 1 or Table 2, respectively.

Example 2
Example 1 except that a false twist textured yarn (84 dtex/36 filament) having an elongation of 25% and an elongation of 89% was used as the weft and a satin woven fabric was woven at a weft density of 93 yarns/2.54 cm. By the same method as described above, a chamois-like woven fabric containing a crimped yarn and an ultrafine deep dyeing yarn was obtained. This chamois-type fabric was excellent in deep dyeing and was excellent in chamois (smoothness, elegant coat, and supple texture).

Example 3
The crimped yarn and the extra fine deep-dyed yarn are produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the number of additional twists of the crimped yarn which is the warp is S twisted and 450 T/M, and the twist coefficient K is reduced to 4316. A chamois-containing fabric containing In this chamois-like woven fabric, the fine twist dyeing yarn tends to open due to the low twist coefficient, and poor opening tends to occur during weaving, and the feeling of sliminess and nap is a little insufficient, but it is sufficiently practical. Was able to withstand.

Example 4
The crimped yarn and the extra fine densely dyed yarn were produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the number of additional twists of the crimped yarn as the warp was S twisted, and the twist coefficient K was increased to 17264 with 1800 T/M. A chamois containing fabric was obtained. In this chamois-like woven fabric, since the twisting coefficient was too high, the binding force of the processed yarn was likely to be strong, and the slimy feeling and the napped feeling were slightly insufficient, but it was sufficiently practical.

Example 5
A crimped yarn and an extra fine yarn were produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the warp density was 175 threads/2.54 cm, the weft thread density was 90 threads/2.54 cm, and a satin woven fabric was used as a raw fabric. A chamois-containing fabric containing dyed yarn was obtained. In this chamois-like woven fabric, since the binding force of the tissue was weak, the number of voids was large and the cover factor was as low as 2351, and the slimy feeling and the napped feeling were slightly insufficient, but it was sufficiently practical.

Example 6
A crimped yarn and an extra fine yarn were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the warp density was 260 yarns/2.54 cm, the weft yarn density was 120 yarns/2.54 cm, and a satin woven fabric was woven into a raw fabric. A chamois-containing fabric containing dyed yarn was obtained. In this chamois-like woven fabric, the density of the warp yarns is too high and defective opening of the warps is apt to occur during the weaving, so that the cover factor is as high as 3390, the slimy feeling and the napped feeling are slightly insufficient, and the texture is slightly hard, It was practically usable.

Example 7
A chamois-type woven fabric containing crimped yarns and ultrafine deep-dying processed yarns was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the processing tension of the cold drawing zone was set to 0.45 cN/dtex. In this chamois-like woven fabric, the fineness of the ultrafine deep dyeing processed yarn was slightly fine and the slimy feeling was slightly insufficient, but the present invention was sufficiently satisfied.

Comparative Example 1
In the false twisting treatment, the false twisting coefficient was reduced to 26670, the draw ratio was increased to 1.39 times, and the untwisting tension strength was increased to 0.51 cN/dtex. A woven fabric containing the crimped yarn and the processed yarn was obtained. This crimped yarn lacked in elongation and elongation, and tended to have a light color in the processed yarn. Further, this woven fabric had fluff spots far from chamois and was inferior in deep dyeing property.

Comparative example 2
A woven fabric containing crimped yarns and textured yarns was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the untwisting strength at the false twisting treatment was increased to 0.57 cN/dtex. The crimped yarn had an excessively high elongation rate, and the processed yarn tended to have a light color. This woven fabric was inferior in deep dyeing property and lacked in slimy feel.

Comparative Example 3
A woven fabric containing crimped yarns and textured yarns was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the heater temperature during shrinkage heat treatment was lowered to 120° C. and the overfeed rate during shrinkage heat treatment was set to 5%. The obtained woven fabric had an L ^* value outside the range specified in the present invention, and was inferior in deep dyeing property.

Comparative Example 4
A crimped yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the heater temperature during the shrinkage heat treatment was increased to 180°C. When a woven fabric made of the processed yarn obtained from this crimped yarn was visually confirmed, a large number of fluffs were generated.

Comparative Example 5
A woven fabric including crimped yarn and textured yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the overfeed rate during shrinkage heat treatment was lowered to −5% and the conditions were changed as shown in Table 2. .. The crimped yarn had a low elongation, and when the obtained processed yarn was visually confirmed, it tended to be light dyeing. It is presumed that this is because the heat efficiency for forming filaments was poor. This woven fabric was inferior in deep dyeing property and lacked a nap feeling.

Comparative Example 6
A crimped yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the overfeed rate during shrinkage heat treatment was increased to 40%. However, yarn slack and yarn breakage occurred frequently, and a crimped yarn could not be obtained after the drawing false twisting treatment.

Comparative Example 7
A crimped yarn and a textured yarn were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the draw ratio during the draw false twisting process was lowered to 1.1 and the untwisting strength was lowered to 0.15 cN/dtex. A woven fabric containing it was obtained. In the crimped yarn, the stretchability was insufficient and the elongation was too high, and the obtained woven fabric lacked the feeling of nap.

Comparative Example 8
The same procedure as in Example 1 except that the draw ratio during draw false twisting was increased to 1.45 times, the false twist coefficient was decreased to 26470, and the untwisting tension strength was increased to 0.79 cN/dtex. It was tried to obtain a woven fabric containing crimped yarns and processed yarns. The crimped yarn had a high elongation ratio and a low elongation, and the processed yarn had a light color tendency. Furthermore, fluff was generated on the fabric.

Comparative Example 9
A crimped yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the heater temperature during the drawing false twisting process was increased to 200°C. When the textured yarn in the woven fabric was visually confirmed, the textured yarn had a partially fused portion.

Comparative Example 10
A woven fabric including crimped yarns and textured yarns was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the heater temperature during the draw false twisting process was lowered to 160°C. The crimped yarn had a low elongation and a high elongation, and the textured yarn had a light color tendency. This woven fabric was inferior in deep dyeability, had a hard texture, and was inferior in nap feeling.

Comparative Example 11
A crimped yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the false twist number during the draw false twist treatment was changed to Z twist and the false twist coefficient was increased to 33000 by changing to 3459 (T/M). I tried. However, the ballooning was large during the drawing false twisting process, and yarn breakage occurred, and the crimped yarn could not be obtained after the drawing false twisting process.

Comparative Example 12
A woven fabric including crimped yarns and processed yarns was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the single yarn fineness of the supplied yarn was increased to 9.17 dtex. The fineness of the processed yarn was as thick as 0.937 dtex, and when this woven fabric was visually confirmed, the feeling of sliminess was insufficient and the chamois texture was not exhibited.

f Alkali sparingly soluble polyester component g Alkali easily soluble polyester component Y Polyester composite undrawn yarn 1 First supply roller 2 Heat treatment heater 3 First take-up roller 4 Second take-up roller 5 False twist heater 6 Pin type false twisting device 7 3 Take-up roller 8 Winding roller 9 Package

Claims (1)

A chamois-type woven fabric containing ultra-fine deep-dyed yarn ,
The single yarn fineness of the ultrafine deep dyeing processed yarn is 0.01 to 0.5 dtex,
The cross-sectional shape of the ultrafine deep-dyed yarn is wedge-shaped,
Whether the ultrafine deep-dying processed yarn is arranged on the warp or the weft, or on either the warp or the weft
Is also arranged, and the twist coefficient K is additionally twisted in the range of 5000 to 15000,
The chamois-like woven fabric has a cover factor of 2600 to 3200 and is napped.
A chamois-like woven fabric which has a L ^* value of 16 or less when subjected to a black dyeing process .