JP2019123986A - Crimped yarn, extra-fine deeply dyeable finished yarn, chamois-like woven fabric including extra-fine deeply dyeable finished yarn, and method for producing crimped yarn - Google Patents

Crimped yarn, extra-fine deeply dyeable finished yarn, chamois-like woven fabric including extra-fine deeply dyeable finished yarn, and method for producing crimped yarn Download PDF

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JP2019123986A
JP2019123986A JP2019089087A JP2019089087A JP2019123986A JP 2019123986 A JP2019123986 A JP 2019123986A JP 2019089087 A JP2019089087 A JP 2019089087A JP 2019089087 A JP2019089087 A JP 2019089087A JP 2019123986 A JP2019123986 A JP 2019123986A
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yarn
dtex
crimped
crimped yarn
fabric
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JP6734437B2 (en
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大林 徹治
Tetsuharu Obayashi
徹治 大林
恭雄 岸田
Yasuo Kishida
恭雄 岸田
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Unitika Trading Co Ltd
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Abstract

To provide a crimped yarn for obtaining an extra-fine deeply dyeable finished yarn which is excellent in deep dyeability and can express a deep hue and tailored appearance, and which can reveal a chamois-like texture (moist feeling, elegant nap, and a flexible texture) when subjected to raising processing.SOLUTION: A crimped yarn is obtained in such a way that a polyester conjugate undrawn yarn is subjected to shrinkage heat treatment under a tension of 0.05 cN/dtex or less, at a temperature of 140-160°C, and at an overfeed ratio of 0-30%, and then subjected to draw-false twisting treatment at a draw ratio of 1.15-1.4 times, at a false twisting coefficient of 27,000-32,000, at a false twisting temperature of 170-190°C, and under an untwisting tension strength represented by the following equation (i) of 0.2-0.5 cN/dtex. The crimped yarn is split by alkali reduction processing into an extra-fine deeply dyeable finished yarn having a single fiber fineness of 0.01-0.5 dtex. [Untwisting tension strength (cN/dtex)]=[Untwisting tension (cN)]/[Actual fineness (dtex) of the crimped yarn after the draw-false twisting treatment](i).SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

本発明は、捲縮糸、極細濃染加工糸、極細濃染加工糸を含むセーム調織物、及び捲縮糸の製造方法に関する。   The present invention relates to a crimped yarn, an ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn, a seam-like fabric including an ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn, and a method of producing a crimped yarn.

昨今の婦人衣料分野などにおける高級指向に伴い、織物に用いられた場合に濃色性に優れ、さらにセーム調風合い(ヌメリ感、上品な毛並み、及びしなやかな風合い)を発現し得る加工糸が要望されている。また、濃染性と風合いとに優れる布帛を得るために、ポリエステル複合未延伸糸を用いることが様々に検討されている。   With the high-quality orientation in the field of women's clothing and the like, there is a demand for processed yarns that are excellent in dark color when used for textiles and that can develop a seme-like texture (smoothness, elegant coats, and flexible texture). It is done. In addition, in order to obtain a fabric excellent in deep dyeing properties and texture, it has been variously studied to use a polyester composite undrawn yarn.

例えば、特許文献1には、ポリエステル複合繊維を含む複合糸を熱処理することが記載されている。こうした複合糸は、発色性と染色堅牢度とが良好である。   For example, Patent Document 1 describes heat treatment of a composite yarn containing a polyester composite fiber. Such composite yarns have good color developability and fastness to dyeing.

また、特許文献2には、ポリエステル複合未延伸糸を延伸仮撚した後に交絡する手法が記載されている。こうした手法により、ふくらみ及びソフト感に優れ、しかも表面品位及び摩擦特性に優れた布帛を形成し得る仮撚糸を製造できる。   Further, Patent Document 2 describes a method in which a polyester composite undrawn yarn is drawn and false-twisted and then entangled. By such a method, it is possible to produce a false twist yarn which can form a fabric which is excellent in swelling and softness and which is also excellent in surface quality and frictional characteristics.

特開2002−194634号公報JP, 2002-194634, A 特開2009−121003号公報JP 2009-121003

しかしながら、特許文献1に記載の技術を用いたとしても、セーム調風合いを達成することができない。また、特許文献2に記載された手法を用いたとしても、仮撚糸の濃染性は十分ではない。つまり、優れた濃染性とセーム調風合いとを両立し得る織物を製造するための加工糸を得ることは、未だ困難である。   However, even if the technique described in Patent Document 1 is used, the same texture can not be achieved. Moreover, even if the method described in Patent Document 2 is used, the deep dyeability of the false twist yarn is not sufficient. That is, it is still difficult to obtain a processed yarn for producing a fabric that can achieve both excellent deep dyeability and the same texture.

本発明は、このような従来技術の欠点を解消するものであり、割繊後に極細濃染加工糸となる捲縮糸であって、この極細濃染加工糸を織物にして染色した場合に濃染性に優れ、深みのある色相と仕立て映えとを表現でき、セーム調風合い(ヌメリ感、上品な毛並み、及びしなやかな風合い)を発現し得る極細濃染加工糸を得るための捲縮糸を提供することを目的とする。   The present invention solves the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art, and is a crimped yarn which becomes an ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn after splitting, and is concentrated when the extrafine concentrated dyed yarn is made into a fabric and dyed. A crimped yarn for obtaining ultrafine dark dyed yarn that is excellent in dyeability, can express deep hues and tailored look, and can develop a chameish texture (smoothness, elegant coats, and flexible texture) Intended to be provided.

本発明者等は、上記のような課題を解決すべく鋭意検討を行った。その結果、特定の工程(収縮熱処理、及び延伸仮撚処理)を経た捲縮糸は、割繊後に濃染性が良好であり、織物とした場合にセーム調風合いを発現することが可能である極細濃染加工糸となり得るという知見に基づき、本発明を完成させた。すなわち、本発明は下記を要旨とする。   The present inventors diligently studied to solve the above-mentioned problems. As a result, the crimped yarn which has passed through the specific steps (shrinkage heat treatment and drawing false twisting treatment) has a good deep dyeing property after splitting and can exhibit the same texture when made into a woven fabric The present invention has been completed based on the finding that it can be an ultrafine deep dyed processed yarn. That is, the present invention provides the following.

(1)ポリエステル複合未延伸糸を、0.05cN/dtex以下の張力、140〜160℃の温度、及び0〜30%のオーバーフィード率で収縮熱処理し、次いで、1.15〜1.4倍の延伸倍率、27000〜32000の仮撚係数、170〜190℃の仮撚温度、及び0.2〜0.5cN/dtexの下記式(i)で表される解撚張力強さで延伸仮撚処理された捲縮糸である。この捲縮糸はアルカリ減量加工により割繊されて単糸繊度が0.01〜0.5dtexである極細濃染加工糸となる。
解撚張力強さ(cN/dtex)=解撚張力(cN)/延伸仮撚処理後の捲縮糸の実繊度(dtex) (i)
(1) The polyester composite undrawn yarn is shrink heat treated at a tension of 0.05 cN / dtex or less, a temperature of 140 to 160 ° C., and an overfeed rate of 0 to 30%, and then 1.15 to 1.4 times , A false twist coefficient of 27000 to 32000, a false twist temperature of 170 to 190 ° C., and an untwisted tensile strength represented by the following formula (i) of 0.2 to 0.5 cN / dtex Processed crimped yarn. The crimped yarn is split by alkali reduction processing to form an ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.01 to 0.5 dtex.
Untwisting tensile strength (cN / dtex) = untwisting tension (cN) / actual denier of crimped yarn after draw texturing (dtex) (i)

(2)前記収縮熱処理と前記延伸仮撚処理との間で0.2〜0.4cN/dtexの張力で冷延伸処理されることを特徴とする、(1)の捲縮糸。
(3)(1)又は(2)に記載の捲縮糸をアルカリ減量加工により割繊してなる極細濃染加工糸。
(2) The crimped yarn according to (1), which is cold drawn at a tension of 0.2 to 0.4 cN / dtex between the shrink heat treatment and the draw texturing treatment.
(3) A very fine dark-dyed textured yarn obtained by splitting the crimped yarn according to (1) or (2) by alkali reduction processing.

(4)(3)に記載の極細濃染加工糸を含むセーム調織物である。前記極細濃染加工糸が経糸もしくは緯糸に配されているか、又は経糸及び緯糸の何れにも配され、かつ撚係数Kが5000〜15000の範囲で追撚されている。前記セーム調織物は、カバーファクターが2600〜3200であり、起毛加工されており、かつ黒色染色加工をした時のL値が16以下である。 (4) A semi-textile fabric comprising the ultrafine deep-dyed yarn according to (3). The ultrafine dark-dyed yarn is disposed on warps or wefts, or is disposed on both warps and wefts, and is additionally twisted with a twisting coefficient K in the range of 5000 to 15000. The Same-like fabric has a cover factor of 2600 to 3200, is napped, and has an L * value of 16 or less when subjected to a black dyeing process.

(5)捲縮糸の製造方法である。供給糸条としてポリエステル複合未延伸糸を用い、前記ポリエステル複合未延伸糸に対し、以下の工程(I)及び(II)をこの順に実行することを特徴とする。
(I)0.05cN/dtex以下の張力、140〜160℃の温度、及び0〜30%のオーバーフィード率で収縮熱処理する工程
(II)1.15〜1.4倍の延伸倍率、27000〜32000の仮撚係数、170〜190℃の仮撚温度、及び0.2〜0.5cN/dtexの下記式(i)で表される解撚張力強さで延伸仮撚処理して捲縮糸を得る工程
解撚張力強さ(cN/dtex)=解撚張力(cN)/延伸仮撚処理後の加工糸の実繊度
(dtex) (i)
(5) It is a manufacturing method of crimped yarn. The process is characterized in that the following steps (I) and (II) are performed in this order on the polyester composite undrawn yarn, using a polyester composite undrawn yarn as the supply yarn.
(I) Step of shrink heat treatment at a tension of 0.05 cN / dtex or less, a temperature of 140 to 160 ° C., and an overfeed rate of 0 to 30% (II) a draw ratio of 1.15 to 1.4 times, 27000 to Crimp yarn with a draw twisting treatment with a twisting coefficient of 32000, a false twisting temperature of 170 to 190 ° C, and an untwisting tensile strength represented by the following formula (i) of 0.2 to 0.5 cN / dtex Process of obtaining untwisting tensile strength (cN / dtex) = untwisting tension (cN) / actual denier of processed yarn after draw texturing (dtex) (i)

(6)上記工程(I)と(II)との間に下記工程(III)を含む、(5)の捲縮糸の製造方法。
(III)前記ポリエステル複合未延伸糸に対し、0.2〜0.4cN/dtexの張力で冷延伸処理する工程
(6) The manufacturing method of the crimped yarn of (5) which includes the following process (III) between said process (I) and (II).
(III) a step of cold drawing the polyester composite undrawn yarn at a tension of 0.2 to 0.4 cN / dtex

本発明によれば、織物にして起毛加工を施した場合に、濃染性に優れ深みのある色相と仕立て映えとを表現でき、セーム調風合いに優れる極細濃染加工糸となる捲縮糸を、操業性よく得ることができる。さらに、この捲縮糸は伸縮性に優れ、この極細濃染加工糸は毛羽などの欠陥が無く品質が良いものである。     According to the present invention, it is possible to express a deep-dyeded deep-hued hue and a tailor-made appearance and to produce a crimped yarn which is an ultra-fine concentrated dyed yarn excellent in the same texture, when it is formed into a woven fabric and subjected to a raising process. Can be obtained with good operability. Furthermore, this crimped yarn is excellent in stretchability, and this ultrafine deep dyed yarn is free from defects such as fuzz and is of good quality.

ポリエステル複合未延伸糸の断面形状の一例(くさび型の複合断面形状)を示す概略図である。It is the schematic which shows an example (wedge-shaped composite cross section shape) of the cross-sectional shape of polyester composite undrawn yarn. 本発明の極細濃染加工糸の断面形状の一例を示す概略図である。BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS It is the schematic which shows an example of the cross-sectional shape of the ultra-fine deep-dyeed yarn of this invention. 本発明の捲縮糸の製造工程の一部を示す概略図である。It is the schematic which shows a part of manufacturing process of the crimped yarn of this invention.

以下、本発明について詳細に説明する。
本発明の捲縮糸は、アルカリ減量加工により割繊された極細濃染加工糸となるものである。こうした極細濃染加工糸は単糸繊度が0.01〜0.5dtexであり、濃染性に優れるため、織物とされた場合に深みのある色合いを呈する。さらに、この捲縮糸は伸縮性に優れ適切な伸度を有するため、割繊後に織物とされた場合に毛並みが均一で、しとやかな風合い及びヌメリ感を発現し、優れたセーム調を発現する。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The crimped yarn of the present invention is to be an ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn split by alkali reduction processing. Such ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn has a single yarn fineness of 0.01 to 0.5 dtex and is excellent in deep dyeability, and therefore exhibits deep color when it is made into a woven fabric. Furthermore, since this crimped yarn is excellent in stretchability and has a suitable elongation, when it is made into a woven fabric after splitting, it has a uniform coat, expresses a gentle feeling of texture and nummy feeling, and expresses excellent chame tone .

割繊後の極細濃染加工糸の単糸繊度は、0.01〜0.5dtexであり、0.1〜0.3dtexであることが好ましく、この範囲にすると織物とした場合に優れたセーム調風合いを発現させることができる。また、極細濃染加工糸の総繊度が50〜160dtexであることが好ましく、フィラメント数が100〜10000本であり、好ましくは300〜30000本の範囲である。   The fineness of single-fiber concentrated dyed yarn after splitting is 0.01 to 0.5 dtex, and preferably 0.1 to 0.3 dtex. The cognition can be expressed. The total fineness of the ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn is preferably 50 to 160 dtex, the number of filaments is 100 to 10,000, and preferably 300 to 30,000.

本発明の捲縮糸は、特定の条件での工程(収縮熱処理、次いで延伸仮撚処理)を経たものであることが好ましい。ここで、捲縮糸の構成を示すことは困難であるため、捲縮糸をプロダクトバイプロセスクレーム形式で表現している。本発明においては、捲縮糸が特定の条件での工程を経たものと同等であれば、上記工程を経ないものであっても含まれる。
この特定の工程について以下に述べる。
The crimped yarn of the present invention is preferably subjected to a process under specific conditions (shrinkage heat treatment followed by draw texturing). Here, since it is difficult to indicate the configuration of crimped yarn, crimped yarn is expressed in the form of product-by-process claims. In the present invention, as long as the crimped yarn is equivalent to the one obtained through the process under the specific conditions, the one not including the above process is included.
This particular process is described below.

まず、供給糸条の例としては、くさび型の複合断面形状を有するポリエステル複合未延伸糸が挙げられる。このポリエステル複合未延伸糸は、後述のアルカリ減量加工により割繊されて、くさび型の極細濃染加工糸となる。複合断面形状がくさび型であると、海島型などのその他の複合断面形状と比較して、割繊後の極細濃染加工糸を織物にした際の張り感又はコシ感が良好となる。   First, as an example of the supply yarn, a polyester composite undrawn yarn having a wedge-shaped composite cross-sectional shape can be mentioned. The polyester composite undrawn yarn is split by alkali reduction processing described later to form a wedge-shaped ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn. When the composite cross-sectional shape is a wedge shape, the tension and stiffness of the ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn after splitting can be improved as compared to other composite cross-sectional shapes such as a sea-island type.

くさび型の複合断面形状を有するポリエステル複合未延伸糸の断面形状の概略図を図1に示す。図1に示すように、ポリエステル複合未延伸糸は、アルカリ難溶性ポリエステル成分fと、アルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分gとを有する。詳しくは、複数のアルカリ難溶性ポリエステル成分fがアルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分gで接合されて、糸の断面形状は全体として円形を呈する。糸断面におけるアルカリ難溶性ポリエステル成分fの数は、割繊後に所望の単糸繊度及びフィラメント数を達成するために、6〜15個であることが好ましい。   A schematic view of the cross-sectional shape of a polyester composite undrawn yarn having a wedge-shaped composite cross-sectional shape is shown in FIG. As shown in FIG. 1, the polyester composite undrawn yarn has an alkali hardly soluble polyester component f and an alkali easily soluble polyester component g. Specifically, a plurality of poorly alkali-soluble polyester components f are joined with the alkali-soluble polyester component g, and the cross-sectional shape of the yarn exhibits a circular shape as a whole. The number of poorly alkali-soluble polyester component f in the yarn cross-section is preferably 6 to 15 in order to achieve the desired single yarn fineness and the number of filaments after splitting.

アルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分は、アルカリ難溶性ポリエステル成分を接合するための接着剤として機能する。そして、後述のアルカリ減量加工により、アルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分が溶出されて、ポリエステル複合未延伸糸が図2に示されるような極細繊維となる。ポリエステル複合未延伸糸におけるアルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分とアルカリ難溶性ポリエステル成分との質量比率(アルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分/アルカリ難溶性ポリエステル成分)は、アルカリ減量後の極細濃染加工糸の繊度を上記の範囲とするために、5/95〜30/70であることが好ましい。   The alkali-soluble polyester component functions as an adhesive for bonding the alkali-insoluble polyester component. Then, the alkali-soluble polyester component is eluted by the alkali reduction processing described later, and the polyester composite undrawn yarn becomes an ultrafine fiber as shown in FIG. The mass ratio of the alkali-soluble polyester component to the alkali-insoluble polyester component in the polyester composite undrawn yarn (alkali-soluble polyester component / alkali-insoluble polyester component) is defined as the fineness of the ultra-thick concentrated dyed yarn after alkali reduction. In order to set it as a range, it is preferable that it is 5/95-30/70.

アルカリ難溶性ポリエステル成分は、アルカリ水溶液に対する溶解度が、アルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分の溶解度よりも低ければ、特に制限されない。また、アルカリ水溶液を用いたアルカリ溶出速度が、アルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分のアルカリ溶出速度より、2〜20倍程度遅いことが好ましい。アルカリ難溶性ポリエステル成分としては、例えば、ポリエチレンテレフタレート(PET)などが挙げられる。   The poorly alkali-soluble polyester component is not particularly limited as long as the solubility in an aqueous alkali solution is lower than the solubility of the easily alkali-soluble polyester component. Moreover, it is preferable that the alkali elution rate using the aqueous alkali solution is about 2 to 20 times slower than the alkali elution rate of the alkali-soluble polyester component. Examples of the poorly alkali-soluble polyester component include polyethylene terephthalate (PET).

アルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分の重量平均分子量は、アルカリ減量に好適であるために、2000〜10000であることが好ましい。アルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分の具体例としては、10〜30質量%のポリエチレングリコールと、1〜3モル%の5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸とを共重合した共重合ポリエステルが挙げられる。このポリエステルはアルカリ減量速度が速く熱的安定性に優れているため、容易に、かつ安定して割繊を行うことができる。   The weight average molecular weight of the alkali-soluble polyester component is preferably 2000 to 10000 in order to be suitable for alkali loss. Specific examples of the alkali-soluble polyester component include copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing 10 to 30% by mass of polyethylene glycol and 1 to 3 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. Since this polyester has a high alkali reduction rate and excellent thermal stability, it can be easily and stably split.

ポリエステル複合未延伸糸を得るには、例えば、ポリエステルポリマー(アルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分、及びアルカリ難溶性ポリエステル成分)を、断面形状が図1で示した複合形状となるような口金で紡糸する。ポリエステルポリマーを紡糸する条件は特に限定されないが、例えば、2000〜4000m/分の速度で紡糸することができる。   In order to obtain a polyester composite undrawn yarn, for example, a polyester polymer (an alkali-soluble polyester component and an alkali-insoluble polyester component) is spun with a spinner whose cross-sectional shape becomes the composite shape shown in FIG. Although the conditions which spin a polyester polymer are not specifically limited, For example, it can spin at the speed of 2000-4000 m / min.

上記のポリエステルポリマーは、本発明の効果を阻害しない範囲で、改質剤(例えば、艶消し剤、安定剤、難燃剤、又は着色剤)を含んでいてもよい。また、各種の機能付与成分(例えば、カチオン染料可染性成分、又は熱収縮性成分)が共重合されるか、又は混合されて含有されていてもよい。   The above-mentioned polyester polymer may contain a modifier (for example, a matting agent, a stabilizer, a flame retardant, or a coloring agent) insofar as the effect of the present invention is not impaired. In addition, various functionalizing components (for example, cationic dye dyeable components or heat-shrinkable components) may be copolymerized or mixed and contained.

ポリエステル複合未延伸糸の伸度は、加工操業性に優れる観点から、例えば、100〜120%であることが好ましい。   The elongation of the polyester composite undrawn yarn is preferably, for example, 100 to 120%, from the viewpoint of excellent processing operability.

本発明の捲縮糸は、ポリエステル複合未延伸糸に対して下記の(I)収縮熱処理、及び(II)延伸仮撚処理をこの順に実行されて得られる。そして、この捲縮糸をアルカリ減量加工により割繊させて、極細濃染加工糸が得られる。つまり、極細濃染加工糸は割繊されたマルチフィラメント糸である。本発明の極細濃染加工糸を含む織物は優れた濃染性を発現し、さらに起毛加工が施されると優れたセーム調風合いを発現する。つまり、本発明の極細濃染加工糸は、特定の条件での(I)収縮熱処理、及び(II)延伸仮撚処理の相乗効果が奏された捲縮糸を割繊することにより、織物とした場合の濃染性が顕著に向上される。   The crimped yarn of the present invention is obtained by performing the following (I) shrink heat treatment and (II) stretched false twisting treatment on a polyester composite undrawn yarn in this order. Then, this crimped yarn is split by alkali reduction processing to obtain an ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn. That is, the ultrafine deep dyed yarn is a split multifilament yarn. The woven fabric containing the ultrafine dark-dyed textured yarn of the present invention exhibits excellent deep dyeing properties, and furthermore, when raised, it exhibits excellent chamme-like texture. That is, the ultrafine deep-dyed textured yarn of the present invention is a woven fabric and a woven fabric by splitting the crimped yarn in which the synergistic effect of (I) shrink heat treatment and (II) stretch false twisting treatment under specific conditions is exhibited. The deep dyeing properties in the case of

(I)0.05cN/dtex以下の張力、140〜160℃の収縮温度、及び0〜30%のオーバーフィード率の条件下にて収縮熱処理する。
(II)1.15〜1.4倍の延伸倍率、27000〜32000の仮撚係数、170〜190℃の仮撚温度、及び0.2〜0.5cN/dtexの下記式(i)で表される解撚張力強さで延伸仮撚処理して捲縮糸を得る。
解撚張力強さ(cN/dtex)=解撚張力(cN)/延伸仮撚処理後の捲縮糸の実繊度(dtex) (i)
(I) Shrink heat treatment is performed under conditions of a tension of 0.05 cN / dtex or less, a shrinkage temperature of 140 to 160 ° C., and an overfeed rate of 0 to 30%.
(II) a draw ratio of 1.15 to 1.4 times, a false twist coefficient of 27000 to 32000, a false twist temperature of 170 to 190 ° C., and a table of the following formula (i) of 0.2 to 0.5 cN / dtex Stretching and false twisting treatment is carried out with the untwisting tensile strength to obtain a crimped yarn.
Untwisting tensile strength (cN / dtex) = untwisting tension (cN) / actual denier of crimped yarn after draw texturing (dtex) (i)

上記の条件にて(I)収縮熱処理を経ると、ポリエステル複合未延伸糸に対する熱効率が良好となり、ポリエステルの高結晶化及び高配向化が促進される。その結果、極細濃染加工糸とされた際にマイクロファイバーであるにも係わらず、優れた濃染性を有する。   When (I) shrink heat treatment is performed under the above conditions, the thermal efficiency with respect to the polyester composite undrawn yarn is improved, and the high crystallization and the high orientation of the polyester are promoted. As a result, in spite of being a microfiber when made into an ultrafine dark dyed processed yarn, it has excellent deep dyeing properties.

収縮熱処理温度が140〜160℃であると、極細濃染加工糸の強度がより強くなり、また毛羽がより低減される。さらには結晶化又は配向化が十分に進行し、濃染性が十分となる。   When the shrinkage heat treatment temperature is 140 to 160 ° C., the strength of the ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn becomes stronger, and the fuzz is further reduced. Furthermore, crystallization or orientation proceeds sufficiently, and deep staining becomes sufficient.

オーバーフィード率が0〜30%であると、後の延伸仮撚処理にて太細斑の発現が抑えられ、均一な捲縮糸となりやすい。または、収縮熱処理時に糸振れ又は弛みが発生することによる糸切れを抑制することができ、加工操業性により優れる。さらに、糸条が過度に延伸されず伸度が十分なものとなり、濃染性及び立毛感により優れる。   When the overfeed rate is 0 to 30%, the occurrence of thick and thin spots is suppressed in the subsequent draw texturing treatment, and the crimped yarn tends to be uniform. Alternatively, it is possible to suppress yarn breakage due to the occurrence of yarn runout or slack during contraction heat treatment, which is more excellent in processing operability. Furthermore, the yarn is not stretched excessively and the elongation becomes sufficient, and the deep dyeing property and the napping feeling are excellent.

(I)収縮熱処理において、張力が0.05cN/dtex以下であると、糸条が過度に延伸された状態とならないため、濃染性が十分となる。   (I) In the shrinkage heat treatment, if the tension is 0.05 cN / dtex or less, the yarn will not be in an excessively drawn state, and therefore the deep dyeability will be sufficient.

予め収縮熱処理を経た糸条に対し、特定の条件下で(II)延伸仮撚処理することで、捲縮糸の伸縮性及び濃染性を向上させる。仮撚条件は、延伸倍率が1.15〜1.4倍、仮撚係数が27000〜32000、仮撚温度が170〜190℃、及び解撚張力強さが0.2〜0.5cN/dtexである。   The stretchability and deep dyeability of the crimped yarn are improved by subjecting the yarn that has undergone shrinkage heat treatment in advance to (II) stretch false twisting treatment under specific conditions. The false twist conditions include a draw ratio of 1.15 to 1.4 times, a false twist coefficient of 27000 to 32000, a false twist temperature of 170 to 190 ° C., and an untwist strength of 0.2 to 0.5 cN / dtex. It is.

延伸倍率が1.15〜1.4倍であり、解撚張力強さが0.3〜0.5cN/dtexであると、張力が十分であるためバルーニングによる糸切れ又は毛羽を抑制し、加工操業性又は品質により優れる。さらに、立毛感、濃染性、及びヌメリ感により優れる。   If the draw ratio is 1.15 to 1.4 and the untwisting tension strength is 0.3 to 0.5 cN / dtex, the tension is sufficient and yarn breakage or fuzzing due to ballooning is suppressed, and processing is performed. Superior to operability or quality. Furthermore, it is excellent by the napping feeling, deep dyeing property, and sliminess.

仮撚係数が27000〜32000であり、仮撚温度が170〜190℃であることにより、捲縮が発現し易くなるため、風合い又は立毛感が十分となる。さらに、伸縮性、伸度及び濃染性により優れる。加えて部分融着、糸切れ又は毛羽などの欠陥を抑制し、操業性が向上する。こうした捲縮糸の伸長率は90〜130%であり、かつ伸度が30〜60%であることが好ましい。伸長率及び伸度が上記範囲であることで、優れた濃染性及びセーム調風合いを発現し得る極細濃染加工糸を得るための捲縮糸となる。   When the false twist coefficient is 27000 to 32000 and the false twist temperature is 170 to 190 ° C., crimps are easily developed, so that the feel or napping feeling is sufficient. Furthermore, they are excellent in stretchability, elongation and deep dyeing properties. In addition, defects such as partial fusion, thread breakage or fuzz are suppressed, and operability is improved. It is preferable that such a crimped yarn has an elongation of 90 to 130% and an elongation of 30 to 60%. When the elongation rate and the elongation are in the above-mentioned range, it becomes a crimped yarn for obtaining an ultrafine dark dyed processed yarn which can exhibit excellent deep dyeing property and the same texture.

捲縮糸は、上記(I)収縮熱処理と(II)延伸仮撚処理との間に、0.2〜0.4cN/dtexの張力で(III)冷延伸処理を経ることが好ましい。(I)収縮熱処理した糸条が、上記の条件で(III)冷延伸処理を経ることにより、濃染性をさらに向上させるとともに、収縮時に不均一である糸条形態を均一にして、続く(II)延伸仮撚処理が安定する。(III)冷延伸処理時の張力が0.2〜0.4cN/dtexであると、糸条形態が均一なものとなり、弛みが発生することによる糸切れを抑制できる。さらにヌメリ感の低下を抑制できる。なお、(III)冷延伸処理を行うには、室温状態が好ましく、例えば20〜30℃程度の温度で冷却しながら延伸すればよい。   The crimped yarn is preferably subjected to (III) cold drawing treatment at a tension of 0.2 to 0.4 cN / dtex between the (I) shrink heat treatment and the (II) drawing false twisting treatment. (I) Shrink-heat-treated yarn passes through cold stretching treatment under (III) under the above conditions to further improve the deep dyeing property and to make the yarn form uneven at the time of contraction uniform and continue ( II) Stretching false twisting is stabilized. (III) When the tension at the time of cold drawing treatment is 0.2 to 0.4 cN / dtex, the yarn form becomes uniform, and yarn breakage due to the occurrence of slack can be suppressed. Furthermore, it is possible to suppress the reduction in the feeling of sliminess. In addition, in order to perform the cold-drawing process (III), a room temperature state is preferable, for example, what is necessary is just to draw, cooling at the temperature of about 20-30 degreeC.

アルカリ減量加工に関し、その条件(例えば、減量時間、浴比、減量温度、又は減量率)は割繊を実行しうる範囲で適宜に選択され、特に限定されない。なお、アルカリ減量加工は(II)延伸仮撚処理を経た捲縮糸に対して直接行ってもよいし、(II)延伸仮撚処理を経た捲縮糸から生機などを得、この生機に対して行ってもよい。   The conditions (for example, weight loss time, bath ratio, weight loss temperature, or weight loss ratio) regarding alkali weight loss processing are appropriately selected within a range in which splitting can be performed, and are not particularly limited. In addition, alkali reduction processing may be performed directly on the crimped yarn subjected to (II) drawing false twisting treatment, or (II) a raw machine etc. are obtained from the crimped yarn subjected to the draw false twisting treatment, and It may be done.

次に、本発明の捲縮糸の製造方法の工程の一例を、図3を用いて説明する。
供給糸条Y(割繊後にくさび型となるポリエステル複合未延伸糸)に対して、供給ローラ1と第1引取りローラ3との間に設置された熱処理ヒーター2によって、上記のような特定の条件下で収縮熱処理する((I)収縮熱処理)。次いで、第1引取りローラ3と第2引取りローラ4との間において、0.2〜0.4cN/dtexの張力で、例えば室温下(25℃程度)で冷延伸処理することが好ましい((III)冷延伸処理)。
Next, an example of the process of the method for producing a crimped yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG.
With respect to the supply yarn Y (a polyester composite undrawn yarn which becomes a wedge shape after splitting), the heat treatment heater 2 disposed between the supply roller 1 and the first take-up roller 3 makes the above specific Shrink heat treatment is performed under the conditions ((I) shrink heat treatment). Next, it is preferable to perform cold stretching between the first and second take-up rollers 3 and 4 at a tension of 0.2 to 0.4 cN / dtex, for example, at room temperature (about 25 ° C.) (III) cold stretching treatment).

引き続き連続して、第2引取りローラ4と第3引取りローラ7との間で、仮撚ヒーター5及びピンタイプ仮撚装置6を用い、特定の条件下で延伸仮撚処理する((II)延伸仮撚処理)。これにより割繊前の捲縮糸が得られる。この捲縮糸は、第3引取りローラ7を経て、巻き取りローラ8によりパッケージ9に捲き取られる。   Subsequently, stretching and false twisting is performed under specific conditions using the false twisting heater 5 and the pin type false twisting device 6 between the second and third take-up rollers 4 and 7 continuously ((II ) Stretch false twisting process). A crimped yarn before splitting is thus obtained. The crimped yarn passes through the third take-up roller 7 and is taken up by the take-up roller 8 into the package 9.

供給糸条Yを構成する単糸の断面形状は、例えば、図1に示すように、アルカリ難溶性ポリエステル成分fがアルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分gによって接合されている。この供給糸条Yから製造される捲縮糸をアルカリ水溶液に浸漬し、アルカリ減量加工によりアルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分gを溶解して除去して割繊すると、図2に示すようなくさび型の断面形状の複数のフィラメント糸に分割された本発明の極細濃染加工糸となる。   For example, as shown in FIG. 1, the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn constituting the supply yarn Y is such that the alkali-insoluble polyester component f is joined by the alkali-soluble polyester component g. The crimped yarn produced from the supply yarn Y is immersed in an aqueous alkali solution, and the alkali-soluble polyester component g is dissolved and removed by alkali reduction processing to divide and divide, and a wedge-shaped cross section as shown in FIG. 2 It becomes the ultrafine deep-dyed textured yarn of the present invention divided into a plurality of filament yarns of a shape.

本発明のセーム調織物は、本発明の極細濃染加工糸を含む。本発明のセーム調織物においては、この極細濃染加工糸が経糸もしくは緯糸に配されているか、又は経糸及び緯糸に配されている。なお、本発明のセーム調織物において、上記極細濃染加工糸の混用率は、濃染性に優れるために、55%以上であることが好ましく、65%以上であることがより好ましい。   The seam-like fabric of the present invention comprises the ultrafine deep-dyed textured yarn of the present invention. In the seam-like fabric of the present invention, the extra-fine dark dyed yarn is disposed in the warp or weft, or is disposed in the warp and weft. In the chamois woven fabric of the present invention, the mixing ratio of the ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn is preferably 55% or more, more preferably 65% or more, in order to be excellent in deep dyeability.

本発明のセーム調織物は、さらに、起毛加工及び黒色染色加工がなされている。こうした本発明のセーム調織物におけるL値は16以下、好ましくは15以下であり、優れた濃染性が発現されている。 The chamois woven fabric of the present invention is further subjected to a raising process and a black dyeing process. The L * value in the seam-like fabric of the present invention is 16 or less, preferably 15 or less, and excellent deep dyeability is expressed.

本発明のセーム調織物においては、上記の極細濃染加工糸が、5000〜15000の範囲の撚係数Kで追撚されて含まれる。仮撚係数Kがこの範囲であることにより、ヌメリ感又は立毛感に優れるセーム調織物となる。   In the seam-like fabric of the present invention, the above-mentioned ultrafine deep-dyed textured yarn is additionally twisted and contained with a twisting factor K in the range of 5000 to 15000. When the false twist coefficient K is in this range, a seam-like woven fabric excellent in a slimy feeling or a napping feeling is obtained.

本発明のセーム調織物のカバーファクターは、2600〜3200である。カバーファクターがこの範囲であると、優れたセーム調風合いを有する高密度な織物となる。織物のカバーファクターが2600未満であると、織物の組織における拘束力が弱くなるため織物の空隙が多くなり、ヌメリ感又は立毛感が不足し、セーム調風合いが得られない場合がある。また、カバーファクターが3200を超えると、過度に高密度になり、ヌメリ感又は立毛感が不足したり硬くなったりする場合がある。なお、風合いをソフトにするためには別途の減量加工などが必要な場合があり、こうした場合はコストアップ又は生産性の低下を招く。   The cover factor of the seam fabric of the present invention is 2600-3200. When the cover factor is in this range, a high density fabric having an excellent chamois texture is obtained. If the cover factor of the fabric is less than 2600, the binding force in the structure of the fabric is weakened, so that there are many voids in the fabric, so there may be a lack of slimy feeling or napping feeling, and a seme-like texture may not be obtained. In addition, when the cover factor exceeds 3200, the density becomes excessively high, which may result in lack of feeling of nummy feeling or napping feeling or hardness. In order to soften the texture, additional weight reduction processing may be required. In such a case, the cost increases or the productivity decreases.

本発明のセーム調織物の組織は特に限定されず、例えば、平組織、綾組織、朱子組織、又はドビーもしくはジャガードのような変化組織である。また、織物には、仕上げ加工として、起毛加工及び黒色染色加工以外の各種加工(例えば、柔軟加工、制電加工、又は撥水加工)がなされていてもよい。また、本発明のセーム調織物においては、風合いをさらに向上させるために、適度な量の毛羽が敢えて形成されてもよい。   The tissue of the chamois woven fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, and is, for example, plain tissue, rattan tissue, forceps tissue, or altered tissue such as dobby or jacquard. In addition, various processes other than raising and black dyeing may be applied to the fabric as finishing (for example, soft, electrostatic or water repellent). In addition, in the seam-like fabric of the present invention, in order to further improve the texture, a proper amount of fluff may be intentionally formed.

本発明のセーム調織物の製造方法の一例について、以下に述べる。上記のような本発明の極細濃染加工糸に対し、適宜な手法を用いて、撚係数Kが5000〜15000の範囲となるような条件で追撚する。次いで、この極細濃染加工糸を経糸若しくは緯糸に配するか、又は経糸及び緯糸に配して製織し、生機を得る。又は、上記の捲縮糸を追撚して製織した後に、アルカリ減量を施して生機を得る。そして、この生機に対して、起毛加工及び黒色染色加工を施して、本発明のセーム調織物を製造することができる。   An example of the method for producing the seam fabric of the present invention will be described below. With respect to the ultrafine deep dyed processed yarn of the present invention as described above, additional twisting is carried out under a condition that the twisting coefficient K is in the range of 5000 to 15000 using an appropriate method. Next, the ultrafine dark dyed yarn is disposed on warps or wefts, or is disposed on warps and wefts, and woven to obtain a green machine. Alternatively, after the above-described crimped yarn is additionally twisted and woven, alkali reduction is performed to obtain a green machine. And this raising machine can be subjected to a raising process and a black dyeing process to produce the seam-like fabric of the present invention.

起毛加工の条件又は手法は16以下のL値を達成し得る範囲で、特に限定されないが、例えば1本ロール型エメリー起毛機(例えば、320メッシュのサンドペーパーでカバーされた起毛機)を用いることができる。黒色染色加工の条件又は手法は、16以下のL値を達成し得る範囲で、適宜に選択される。 The condition or method of raising hair processing is not particularly limited as long as an L * value of 16 or less can be achieved. For example, a single roll type emery hair raising machine (for example, a hair raising machine covered with 320 mesh sandpaper) is used be able to. The conditions or method of black dyeing processing are appropriately selected as long as an L * value of 16 or less can be achieved.

以下に、実施例及び比較例を示して本発明を詳細に説明する。ただし、本発明は、以下の実施例に限定されない。   Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail by showing Examples and Comparative Examples. However, the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

なお、各々の物性の測定及び評価は、以下のようにして行った。
(1)繊度
実施例及び比較例にて得られた極細濃染加工糸について、JIS L 1013に従って繊度を測定した。
In addition, the measurement and evaluation of each physical property were performed as follows.
(1) Fineness The fineness of the ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn obtained in the examples and comparative examples was measured in accordance with JIS L1013.

(2)伸度
実施例及び比較例にて得られた極細濃染加工糸について、JIS L 1013に従って伸度を測定した。
(2) Elongation The elongation of the extra-fine concentrated dyed yarn obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples was measured according to JIS L1013.

(3)仮撚係数
実施例及び比較例にて得られた極細濃染加工糸について、下記式によって仮撚係数を算出した。
仮撚係数T=√加工糸の実繊度(dtex)×仮撚数(T/M)
(3) False Twisting Coefficient The false twisting coefficient was calculated according to the following equation for the ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn obtained in the Examples and Comparative Examples.
False twisting factor T W = √ 実 size of processed yarn (dtex) × number of false twists (T / M)

(4)解撚張力強さ
実施例及び比較例にて得られた捲縮糸について、下記式によって解撚張力強さを算出した。
解撚張力強さ(cN/dtex)=解撚張力(cN)/延伸仮撚処理後の捲縮糸の実繊度(dtex)
(4) Untwisting tensile strength About the crimped yarn obtained by the Example and the comparative example, the untwisting tensile strength was computed by the following formula.
Untwisting tensile strength (cN / dtex) = untwisting tension (cN) / actual fineness of crimped yarn after draw texturing (dtex)

(5)伸長率
JIS−L1013 8.11(伸縮性 B法)に従って伸長率を測定した。詳しくは、実施例及び比較例にて得られた捲縮糸を、棒に掛けて輪にしたものを5個作製し、試料とした。これらの試料の各々に、0.882mN×2×実繊度(dtex)の荷重をかけた。次に、5個の試料をひとまとめにして、約50cmの間隔を置いて上下を綿糸で結んで固定した後、直ちに荷重を除き、一昼夜放置した。これを熱水で30分間処理した。自然乾燥後、0.0176mN×10×実繊度(dtex)の初荷重を掛けた状態で、測定長が約20cmになる様に試料の上部をクランプで固定し、30秒後の試料の長さ(A)を測定した。次に、先の初荷重を取り外し、新たに、0.882mN×10×実繊度(dtex)の荷重を掛けて30秒後の試料の長さ(B)を測定した。下記式にて伸長率を算出した。
伸長率(%)={(B−A)/A}×100
(5) Elongation rate The elongation rate was measured according to JIS-L1013 8.11 (stretchability B method). Specifically, five crimped yarns obtained in the examples and comparative examples were hung on a rod to form a loop, and used as samples. Each of these samples was loaded with a load of 0.882 mN × 2 × actual fineness (dtex). Next, the five samples were put together, fixed at intervals of about 50 cm with cotton thread at the top and bottom, fixed immediately, the load was immediately removed, and left standing overnight. This was treated with hot water for 30 minutes. After natural drying, with an initial load of 0.0176 mN × 10 × actual density (dtex) applied, clamp the upper part of the sample so that the measured length is about 20 cm, and after 30 seconds, length of the sample (A) was measured. Next, the previous initial load was removed, and a load of 0.882 mN × 10 × the actual fineness (dtex) was newly applied, and the length (B) of the sample after 30 seconds was measured. The elongation rate was calculated by the following equation.
Elongation rate (%) = {(B−A) / A} × 100

(6)撚係数K
下記式によって捲縮糸の撚係数Kを算出した。
撚係数K=√捲縮糸の実繊度(dtex)×追撚数(T/M)
(6) Twisting factor K
The twist coefficient K of the crimped yarn was calculated by the following equation.
Twisting factor K = actual fineness of crimped yarn (dtex) × number of additional twists (T / M)

(7)極細濃染加工糸のL値(筒編み、黒色染色)
実施例及び比較例において延伸仮撚処理により得られた捲縮糸を、筒編地に編成し、精練剤(日華化学株式会社製、商品名「サンモール FL」)を2g/リットルの割合で用い、温度80℃かつ時間20分間の条件で、この筒編地を精練した。次いで、フレーク苛性ソーダを20g/リットルの割合で用い、温度98℃、時間30分、及び浴比1:50
の条件でアルカリ減量加工を行った。
(7) L * value of ultrafine deep dyed yarn (cylindrical knitting, black dyeing)
The crimped yarn obtained by the drawing and false twisting process in the examples and comparative examples is knitted into a tubular knitted fabric, and the scouring agent (made by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd., trade name "Sanmor FL") in a ratio of 2 g / liter The tubular fabric was scoured under the conditions of a temperature of 80.degree. C. and a time of 20 minutes. Then, using flake caustic soda at a rate of 20 g / liter, temperature 98 ° C., time 30 minutes, and bath ratio 1: 50.
Alkali weight loss processing was performed under the conditions of

次いで、下記の手法で染色を行った。染料剤(Dystar社製、商品名「ダイアニックスブラック HG−FS」、分散染料)を15%omfの割合で、染色助剤(日華化学株式会社製、商品名「ニッカサンソルト SN−130」)を0.5g/リットルの割合で、及び酢酸を0.2cc/リットルの割合で用いた。浴比を1:50とし、温度135℃かつ時間30分間の条件で染色を行った。次いで、還元洗浄剤(一方社油脂工業株式会社製、商品名「ビスノール P−55」)を5g/リットルの割合で用い、温度80℃かつ時間20分間の洗浄を行った。   Next, staining was performed in the following manner. Dyeing agent (Dystar, trade name "Dianics Black HG-FS", disperse dye) at a ratio of 15% om, dyeing assistant (trade name "Nikkasan salt SN-130", manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) ) At a rate of 0.5 g / l and acetic acid at a rate of 0.2 cc / l. The dyeing was performed at a temperature of 135 ° C. for 30 minutes at a bath ratio of 1:50. Then, using a reducing detergent (trade name "Bisnol P-55", manufactured by Ichigo Yushi Kogyo Co., Ltd.) at a rate of 5 g / liter, washing was performed at a temperature of 80 ° C for 20 minutes.

上記のようにして染色した筒編地に対し、分光光度計(マクベス社製、商品名「CE−3100型」)を用いて反射率を測定し、CIE Labの色差式から濃度指標を求め、この値をL値とした。L値はその値が小さいほど深みのある濃色であることを示す。 With respect to the cylindrical knitted fabric dyed as described above, the reflectance is measured using a spectrophotometer (manufactured by Macbeth, trade name "CE-3100"), and a concentration index is determined from the color difference formula of CIE Lab. This value was taken as the L * value. The L * value indicates that the smaller the value is, the deeper the color is.

(8)極細濃染加工糸の品質
極細濃染加工糸を目視で確認し、下記の基準で評価した。
○:毛羽、又は部分融着などの欠陥が認められなかった。
×:毛羽、又は部分融着などの欠陥が認められた。
(8) Quality of ultrafine dark dyed yarn Ultrafine dark dyed yarn was visually confirmed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
○: no fuzz or defect such as partial fusion was observed.
X: Fuzz or defects such as partial fusion were observed.

(9)織物のL
実施例及び比較例で得られた織物に対し、分光光度計(マクベス社製、商品名「CE−3100型」)を用い、上記(7)と同様の手法によりL値を求めた。
(9) L * value of woven fabric With respect to the woven fabric obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples, using a spectrophotometer (manufactured by Macbeth, trade name "CE-3100 type"), according to the same method as the above (7) The L * value was determined.

(10)カバーファクター(CF)
実施例及び比較例で得られた織物に対し、下記式によってカバーファクターを算出した。
CF=X√D1+Y√D2
上記式中、Xは織物の1インチ当りの経糸本数を示す。Yは織物の1インチ当りの緯糸本数を示す。D1は織物を構成する経糸の実繊度(dtex)を示す。D2は織物を構成する緯糸の実繊度(dtex)を示す。
(10) Cover factor (CF)
The cover factor was calculated by the following formula with respect to the woven fabric obtained in the example and the comparative example.
CF = X√D1 + Y√D2
In the above formula, X represents the number of warps per inch of the fabric. Y represents the number of weft threads per inch of the fabric. D1 shows the fineness (dtex) of the warp constituting the fabric. D2 indicates the denier (dtex) of the weft yarn that constitutes the woven fabric.

(11)ヌメリ感
実施例及び比較例にて得られた織物に対し、触感により、ヌメリ感を下記の基準で評価した。
○:ヌメリ感のある滑らかなタッチである。
△:ヌメリ感が普通である。
×:ヌメリ感が不足している。
(11) Smear Feeling of the fabrics obtained in the examples and the comparative examples was evaluated on the basis of the following criteria by feel.
○: A smooth touch with a sense of slime.
Δ: A sense of sliminess is normal.
X: There is a lack of sense of feeling.

(12)濃染性(官能評価)
実施例及び比較例にて得られた織物を目視で観察し、濃染性を下記の基準で評価した。
○:深みのある色合いで、濃染性が良好である。
△:濃染性が普通である。
×:淡色傾向であり、濃染性が不十分である。
(12) Dark dyeability (sensory evaluation)
The woven fabrics obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples were visually observed, and the deep dyeability was evaluated based on the following criteria.
○: A deep color tone with good dark dyeability.
Fair: dark staining is common.
X: Light-colored tendency, and dark dyeability is insufficient.

(13)立毛感(起毛感、毛並み)
実施例及び比較例にて得られた織物に対し、触感により、立毛感を下記の基準で評価した。
○:立毛感が良好である。
△:立毛感が普通である。
×:立毛感が不十分である。
(13) Feeling of napping
The napping feeling of the woven fabrics obtained in the examples and comparative examples was evaluated by the following criteria.
○: Good napping feeling.
Δ: Napping feeling is normal.
X: The napping feeling is insufficient.

(14)ソフト感
実施例及び比較例にて得られた織物に対し、触感により、ソフト感を下記の基準で評価した。
○:肌触りがソフトである。
△:肌触りが普通である。
×:肌触りが硬い。
(14) Soft feeling The soft feeling of the woven fabrics obtained in the examples and the comparative examples was evaluated according to the following criteria.
○: The touch is soft.
:: The touch is normal.
X: The touch is hard.

実施例1
供給糸条として、ポリエステル複合未延伸糸(110dtex/48フィラメント)を準備した。このポリエステル複合未延伸糸は割繊型であり、図1に示すような、複合断面形状を有していた。詳しくは、8本のアルカリ難溶性ポリエステル成分fがアルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分g(接合剤)によって接合され、それらの割合(質量比)は、(アルカリ難溶性ポリエステル成分f):(アルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分g)=4:1であった。なお、アルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分gは、分子量6.000のポリエチレングリコール(13.3質量%)と、5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸(2.5モル%)とが共重合したポリエステルを主成分とするものであり、アルカリ難溶性ポリエステル成分fはポリエチレンテレフタレートを主成分とするものであった。このポリエステル複合未延伸糸の伸度は110%であった。
Example 1
A polyester composite undrawn yarn (110 dtex / 48 filaments) was prepared as a supply yarn. The polyester composite undrawn yarn was of split type and had a composite cross-sectional shape as shown in FIG. Specifically, eight poorly alkali-soluble polyester components f are joined by an alkali-soluble polyester component g (bonding agent), and the ratio (mass ratio) of them is (alkali-insoluble polyester component f): (alkali-soluble polyester Component g) = 4: 1. The alkali-soluble polyester component g is mainly composed of polyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene glycol (13.3 mass%) having a molecular weight of 6.000 and 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid (2.5 mol%). The alkali-insoluble polyester component f was mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate. The elongation of this polyester composite undrawn yarn was 110%.

図3の工程に従って、表1に示す条件で(I)収縮熱処理、(II)延伸仮撚処理及び(III)冷延伸処理を行って、捲縮糸(92dtex/48フィラメント)を得た。   According to the process of FIG. 3, (I) shrink heat treatment, (II) stretch false twisting process and (III) cold stretch process were performed under the conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain crimped yarn (92 dtex / 48 filaments).

次に、得られた捲縮糸に対し、S撚り、かつ800T/Mで追撚を施した。この捲縮糸を生機の経糸として用いた。生機の緯糸として、第一成分及び第二成分からなるサイドバイサイド型複合糸(56dtex/12フィラメント)を用いた。第一成分は、8モル%のイソフタル酸と5モル%の2.2−ビス[4−(2−ヒドロキシエトキシ)フェニル]プロパンとを共重合したポリエチレンテレフタレート(極限粘度:0.63)であり、第二成分はポリエチレンテレフタレート(極限粘度:0.53)であった。このサイドバイサイド型複合糸をSZ撚り、かつ1500T/Mにて追撚し、撚り止めセットした。S:Z=1:1で緯糸を挿入し、ウォータージェットルームにて生機としてのサテン織物(経糸密度:220本/2.54cm、緯糸密度:100本/2.54cm)を製織した。製織時の工程においてトラブルはなく、品質の良好な生機が得られた。   Next, the obtained crimped yarn was S-twisted and additionally twisted at 800 T / M. This crimped yarn was used as a warp of a living machine. A side-by-side type composite yarn (56 dtex / 12 filaments) consisting of a first component and a second component was used as weft of a green machine. The first component is polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity: 0.63) obtained by copolymerizing 8 mol% of isophthalic acid and 5 mol% of 2.2-bis [4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane The second component was polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity: 0.53). The side-by-side type composite yarn was SZ-twisted and additionally twisted at 1500 T / M, and set to prevent twisting. Weft yarn was inserted at S: Z = 1: 1, and a satin woven fabric (warp density: 220 / 2.54 cm, weft density: 100 / 2.54 cm) was woven in a water jet room as a living machine. There were no problems in the weaving process, and a good quality raw machine was obtained.

得られた生機を精練し(80℃で20分間)、苛性ソーダを用いてアルカリ減量加工を行った(減量率:15質量%)。次いで、液流染色機を用いて連続リラックス(125℃で30分間)により熱収縮性を発現させ、その後プレセットを行った(190℃で30秒間)。次いで、サンドペーパー(320メッシュ)でカバーされた1本ロール型エメリー起毛機(和歌山鉄工株式会社製)を用いて起毛加工を実行した。その後、分散染料(Dystar社製、商品名「ダイアニックスブラックHG−FS」)を10%omfの割合で用いて、染色を行った(135℃で30分間)。これを乾燥させた後、仕上げセット(180℃で30秒間)を行って極細濃染加工糸を含むセーム調織物を得た。このセーム調織物は濃染性に優れ、ヌメリ感、上品な毛並み、及びしなやかな風合いを有するものであった。   The obtained greenware was scoured (for 20 minutes at 80 ° C.), and alkali reduction processing was performed using caustic soda (weight loss rate: 15% by mass). Next, heat shrinkage was developed by continuous relaxation (30 minutes at 125 ° C.) using a jet flow dyeing machine, and then presetting was performed (30 seconds at 190 ° C.). Subsequently, the raising process was performed using a single roll type emery napping machine (manufactured by Wakayama Iron Works Co., Ltd.) covered with sand paper (320 mesh). Thereafter, the dye was dyed using a disperse dye (Dystar, trade name "Dianix Black HG-FS") at a rate of 10% omf (30 minutes at 135 ° C). After drying it, finish setting (30 seconds at 180 ° C.) was carried out to obtain a chamois-like fabric including extra-thick concentrated dyed yarn. This Same-like fabric was excellent in deep-dyeing properties, and had a slimy feel, an elegant coat, and a supple texture.

実施例1、並びに、後述の実施例2〜7及び比較例1〜12の評価結果を、それぞれ、表1又は表2に示す。
The evaluation results of Example 1 and Examples 2 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 12 described below are shown in Table 1 or Table 2, respectively.

実施例2
緯糸として、伸度が25%、伸長率が89%である仮撚加工糸(84dtex/36フィラメント)を用い、緯糸密度93本/2.54cmにてサテン織物を製織した以外は、実施例1と同様の手法により、捲縮糸、及び極細濃染加工糸を含むセーム調織物を得た。このセーム調織物は濃染性に優れ、セーム調(ヌメリ感、上品な毛並み、及びしなやかな風合い)に優れるものであった。
Example 2
Example 1 except that weft yarn is a false-twisted yarn (84 dtex / 36 filaments) having an elongation of 25% and an elongation of 89% and a satin woven fabric is woven at a weft density of 93 / 2.54 cm. In the same manner as in the above, a seme-like fabric including crimped yarn and ultrafine deep-dyed yarn was obtained. This Same-like fabric is excellent in deep-dyeing properties, and is excellent in the Same-like (smoothness, elegant coat, and flexible texture).

実施例3
経糸である捲縮糸の追撚数をS撚り、かつ450T/Mとして、撚係数Kを4316と低くした以外は、実施例1と同様の手法により、捲縮糸、及び極細濃染加工糸を含むセーム調織物を得た。このセーム調織物においては、撚係数が低いために極細濃染加工糸が開繊する傾向にあり、製織時に開口不良が生じ易く、ヌメリ感及び立毛感が若干不足していたが、十分に実用に耐えうるものであった。
Example 3
A crimped yarn and an ultrafine dark dyed processed yarn by the same method as in Example 1 except that the number of additional twists of the crimped yarn which is a warp is S twist and 450 T / M and the twisting coefficient K is reduced to 4316. The seme fabric including In this Same-like fabric, the low fine-twisted yarn tends to open because of the low twist coefficient, and opening defects tend to occur at the time of weaving, and there is a slight lack of nummyness and napping feeling. Were able to bear

実施例4
経糸である捲縮糸の追撚数をS撚り、かつ1800T/Mとして、撚係数Kを17264と高くした以外は、実施例1と同様の手法により、捲縮糸、及び極細濃染加工糸を含むセーム調織物を得た。このセーム調織物においては、撚係数が高過ぎるために加工糸の拘束力が強くなり易く、ヌメリ感及び立毛感が若干不足していたが、十分に実用に耐えうるものであった。
Example 4
A crimped yarn and an ultrafine dark dyed processed yarn according to the same method as in Example 1 except that the number of additional twists of the crimped yarn which is a warp is S twist and 1800 T / M and the twisting coefficient K is increased to 17264. The seme fabric including In this Same-like fabric, since the twisting coefficient is too high, the restraining force of the processed yarn tends to be strong, and there is a slight lack of sliminess and napping feeling, but it is sufficiently practical.

実施例5
経糸密度を175本/2.54cmとし、緯糸密度を90本/2.54cmとしてサテン組織の織物を製織し生機とした以外は、実施例1と同様の手法により、捲縮糸、及び極細濃染加工糸を含むセーム調織物を得た。このセーム調織物においては、組織の拘束力が弱いために空隙が多くカバーファクターが2351と低くなり、ヌメリ感及び立毛感が若干不足していたが、十分に実用に耐えうるものであった。
Example 5
Crimped yarn and extra-fine density in the same manner as in Example 1 except that weft yarn density is 175 / 2.54 cm, weft yarn density is 90 / 2.54 cm, and a satin-woven fabric is woven and made into a green machine. A Same-like fabric containing dyed yarn was obtained. In this Same-like fabric, there were many voids and a low cover factor of 2351 due to weak restraining force of the tissue, and the squeaky feeling and the napping feeling were a little short, but it was sufficient for practical use.

実施例6
経糸密度を260本/2.54cmとし、緯糸密度を120本/2.54cmとしてサテン組織の織物を製織し生機とした以外は、実施例1と同様の手法により、捲縮糸、及び極細濃染加工糸を含むセーム調織物を得た。このセーム調織物においては、高密度過ぎて製織時に経糸の開口不良が生じ易くなるためカバーファクターが3390と高くなり、ヌメリ感及び立毛感が若干不足し、さらに風合いが若干硬かったが、十分に実用に耐えうるものであった。
Example 6
Crimped yarn and extra-fine density in the same manner as in Example 1 except that weft yarn density is 260 yarns / 2.54 cm and weft yarn density is 120 yarns / 2.54 cm and a satin-textured fabric is woven and used as a green machine. A Same-like fabric containing dyed yarn was obtained. In this Same-like fabric, the cover factor is as high as 3390 because the density of the fabric is too high and the opening defect of the warp is likely to occur at the time of weaving, and the feeling of nummyness and napping is slightly insufficient, and the texture is slightly hard. It was able to withstand practical use.

実施例7
冷延伸処理ゾーンの加工張力を0.45cN/dtexに設定した以外は、実施例1と同様の手法により、捲縮糸、及び極細濃染加工糸を含むセーム調織物を得た。このセーム調織物においては、極細濃染加工糸の単繊度がやや細くヌメリ感が若干不足気味であるが、本発明を十分に満足するものであった。
Example 7
In the same manner as in Example 1 except that the processing tension of the cold drawing treatment zone was set to 0.45 cN / dtex, a seme fabric including crimped yarn and ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn was obtained. In this Same-like fabric, although the single fineness of the ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn is a little thin and the nummy feeling is slightly lacking, the present invention is sufficiently satisfied.

比較例1
仮撚延伸処理における仮撚係数を26670と低くし、延伸倍率を1.39倍と高くし、解撚張力強さを0.51cN/dtexと高くし、実施例1と同様の手法により、捲縮糸、及び加工糸を含む織物を得た。この捲縮糸は伸度及び伸長率が不足しており、加工糸においては淡色傾向であった。また、この織物はセーム調には程遠い起毛斑を有しており、さらに濃染性に劣っていた。
Comparative Example 1
In the same manner as in Example 1, the false twisting coefficient in the false twist drawing process is reduced to 26670, the draw ratio is increased to 1.39 times, and the untwisting tensile strength is increased to 0.51 cN / dtex. A woven fabric comprising a crimped yarn and a processed yarn was obtained. The crimped yarn lacks in elongation and elongation, and tends to be pale in the processed yarn. In addition, this fabric had a brushed spot far from the Same tone and was further inferior in deep dyeability.

比較例2
仮撚延伸処理時の解撚張力強さを0.57cN/dtexと高くした以外は、実施例1と同様の手法により捲縮糸、及び加工糸を含む織物を得た。この捲縮糸は伸長率が高すぎ、加工糸においては淡色傾向であった。この織物は濃染性に劣っており、ヌメリ感が不足していた。
Comparative example 2
A woven fabric containing crimped yarns and processed yarns was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the untwisting tensile strength at the time of false twisting drawing treatment was increased to 0.57 cN / dtex. This crimped yarn had a too high elongation rate, and had a tendency of light color in the processed yarn. This woven fabric was inferior in deep dyeability and lacked a nummy feel.

比較例3
収縮熱処理時のヒーター温度を120℃と低くし、収縮熱処理時のオーバーフィード率を5%とした以外は、実施例1と同様の手法により捲縮糸、及び加工糸を含む織物を得たが、得られた織物はL値が本発明に規定する範囲を外れ、濃染性に劣っていた。
Comparative example 3
A woven fabric containing crimped yarn and processed yarn was obtained by the same method as in Example 1 except that the heater temperature during contraction heat treatment was lowered to 120 ° C. and the overfeed rate during contraction heat treatment was 5%. The resulting fabric had a L * value outside the range specified in the present invention and was inferior in deep dyeability.

比較例4
収縮熱処理時のヒーター温度を180℃と高くした以外は、実施例1と同様の手法により捲縮糸を得た。この捲縮糸から得られた加工糸からなる織物を目視で確認したところ多数の切れ毛羽が発生していた。
Comparative example 4
A crimped yarn was obtained by the same method as in Example 1 except that the heater temperature during contraction heat treatment was increased to 180 ° C. It was visually confirmed that a woven fabric made of processed yarn obtained from this crimped yarn had many broken fluffs.

比較例5
収縮熱処理時のオーバーフィード率を−5%と低くし、表2に示したように条件を変更した以外は実施例1と同様の手法により、捲縮糸、及び加工糸を含む織物を得た。この捲縮糸は伸度が低く、得られた加工糸を目視で確認したところ淡染傾向であった。これは、糸状への熱効率が悪かったためであると推測される。この織物は濃染性に劣り立毛感が不足していた。
Comparative example 5
A fabric including crimped yarns and processed yarns was obtained by the same method as in Example 1 except that the overfeed rate during contraction heat treatment was lowered to -5% and the conditions were changed as shown in Table 2. . The crimped yarn had a low degree of elongation, and when the processed yarn obtained was visually observed, it had a tendency of light dyeing. It is presumed that this is because the heat efficiency to the thread was poor. This fabric was inferior to deep dyeing and lacked a napping feeling.

比較例6
収縮熱処理時のオーバーフィード率を40%と高くした以外は、実施例1と同様の手法により捲縮糸を得ようとした。しかし、糸弛み及び糸切れが多発し、延伸仮撚処理後に捲縮糸を得ることができなかった。
Comparative example 6
A crimped yarn was to be obtained by the same method as in Example 1 except that the overfeed rate during contraction heat treatment was increased to 40%. However, yarn slack and breakage frequently occurred, and crimped yarn could not be obtained after the draw texturing process.

比較例7
延伸仮撚処理時の延伸倍率を1.1倍と低くし、解撚張力強さを0.15cN/dtexと低くした以外は、実施例1と同様の手法により捲縮糸、及び加工糸を含む織物を得た。捲縮糸においては、伸縮性が不足し伸度が高過ぎ、得られた織物は立毛感が不足していた。
Comparative example 7
A crimped yarn and a processed yarn were manufactured in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the draw ratio during draw texturing was as low as 1.1 and the untwist strength was as low as 0.15 cN / dtex. I got a fabric containing. In the crimped yarn, the stretchability is insufficient and the elongation is too high, and the obtained woven fabric has an insufficient napping feeling.

比較例8
延伸仮撚処理時の延伸倍率を1.45倍と高くし、仮撚係数を26470と低くし、解撚張力強さを0.79cN/dtexと高くした以外は、実施例1と同様の手法により捲縮糸及び加工糸を含む織物を得ようとした。捲縮糸においては伸長率が高く伸度が低く、加工糸においては淡色傾向であった。さらに、織物には毛羽が発生した。
Comparative Example 8
The same method as in Example 1 except that the draw ratio during draw texturing was increased to 1.45 times, the false twist coefficient was reduced to 26470, and the untwist strength was increased to 0.79 cN / dtex. It tried to obtain a woven fabric containing crimped yarn and processed yarn. The crimped yarn had a high elongation rate and a low elongation, and the machined yarn tended to be pale. In addition, fluff was generated in the fabric.

比較例9
延伸仮撚処理時のヒーター温度を200℃と高くした以外は、実施例1と同様の手法により捲縮糸を得た。織物における加工糸を目視で確認したところ、加工糸には部分的に融着部分があった。
Comparative Example 9
Crimped yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the heater temperature during draw texturing was increased to 200 ° C. When the processed yarn in the woven fabric was visually confirmed, the processed yarn partially had a fused portion.

比較例10
延伸仮撚処理時のヒーター温度を160℃と低くした以外は、実施例1と同様の手法により捲縮糸、及び加工糸を含む織物を得た。捲縮糸においては伸長率が低く伸度が高く、加工糸においては、淡色傾向であった。この織物は濃染性に劣り、風合いが硬く、さらに立毛感に劣っていた。
Comparative example 10
A woven fabric including crimped yarns and processed yarns was obtained by the same method as in Example 1 except that the heater temperature at the time of draw texturing was lowered to 160 ° C. In the crimped yarn, the elongation rate was low and the elongation was high, and in the machined yarn, it tended to be pale. This fabric was inferior to deep dyeing, had a hard texture, and was inferior to the napping feeling.

比較例11
延伸仮撚処理時の仮撚数をZ撚り、かつ3459(T/M)に変更することにより、仮撚係数を33000と高くした以外は、実施例1と同様の手法により捲縮糸を得ようとした。しかし、延伸仮撚処理時にバルーニングが大きく糸切れが発生し、延伸仮撚処理後に捲縮糸を得ることができなかった。
Comparative example 11
A crimped yarn is obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the false twist coefficient is increased to 33000 by changing the number of false twists in the draw texturing process to Z twist and 3459 (T / M). It was like that. However, the ballooning was large during the draw texturing, and thread breakage occurred, and a crimped yarn could not be obtained after the draw texturing.

比較例12
供給糸条の単糸繊度を9.17dtexと太くした以外は、実施例1と同様の手法により捲縮糸、及び加工糸を含む織物を得た。加工糸の繊度が0.937dtexと太くなり、この織物を目視で確認したところ、ヌメリ感が不足しセーム調風合いが発現していなかった。
Comparative Example 12
A woven fabric containing crimped yarn and processed yarn was obtained by the same method as in Example 1 except that the single yarn fineness of the supplied yarn was increased to 9.17 dtex. The fineness of the processed yarn was as thick as 0.937 dtex, and the woven fabric was visually observed.

f アルカリ難溶性ポリエステル成分
g アルカリ易溶性ポリエステル成分
Y ポリエステル複合未延伸糸
1 第1供給ローラ
2 熱処理ヒーター
3 第1引取りローラ
4 第2引取りローラ
5 仮撚ヒーター
6 ピンタイプ仮撚装置
7 第3引取りローラ
8 捲き取りローラ
9 パッケージ












f Alkali sparingly soluble polyester component g Alkali readily soluble polyester component Y Polyester composite undrawn yarn 1 first supply roller 2 heat treatment heater 3 first pickup roller 4 second pickup roller 5 false twisting heater 6 pin type false twisting device 7 3 Take-up roller 8 Take-up roller 9 package












Claims (1)

極細濃染加工糸を含むセーム調織物であって
前記極細濃染加工糸の単糸繊度が0.01〜0.5dtexであり、
前記極細濃染加工糸の断面形状がくさび型であり、
前記極細濃染加工糸が経糸もしくは緯糸に配されているか、又は経糸及び緯糸の何れに
も配され、かつ撚係数Kが5000〜15000の範囲で追撚されており、
前記セーム調織物は、カバーファクターが2600〜3200であり、起毛加工されて
おり、かつ黒色染色加工をした時のL 値が16以下である、セーム調織物
A Same-like fabric containing extra-thick deep-dyed yarn ,
The single fineness of the ultrafine concentrated dyed yarn is 0.01 to 0.5 dtex,
The cross-sectional shape of the ultrafine deep dyed yarn is a wedge shape,
Said ultrafine dark-dyed yarn is arranged in warp or weft, or in either warp or weft
Are also arranged, and the twisting coefficient K is additionally twisted in the range of 5000 to 15000,
The Same fabric has a cover factor of 2600 to 3200 and is napped
Same-like woven fabric with an L * value of 16 or less when blackened and blackened .
JP2019089087A 2014-09-29 2019-05-09 Crimped yarn, extra fine deep dyeing yarn, chamois woven fabric containing extra fine deep dyeing yarn, and method for producing crimped yarn Active JP6734437B2 (en)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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JPH02133623A (en) * 1988-11-14 1990-05-22 Unitika Ltd Production of bulky textured yarn
JPH03130436A (en) * 1989-10-12 1991-06-04 Toray Ind Inc Chamois leather-like wiping cloth and its production
US5753351A (en) * 1994-11-18 1998-05-19 Teijin Limited Nubuck-like woven fabric and method of producing same
JPH08302533A (en) * 1995-05-08 1996-11-19 Unitika Ltd Polyester-based conjugate yarn having deep dyeing property
JPH1025670A (en) * 1996-07-09 1998-01-27 Toyobo Co Ltd Dyeing of structure containing split fiber type conjugate yarn
JPH1181068A (en) * 1997-09-05 1999-03-26 Teijin Ltd Production of special composite false twist textured yarn
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