JP2013204197A - Polyester-latent crimp multifilament yarn and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a polyester-latent crimp multifilament yarn suppressing color difference variation among spindles of a filament yarn, imparting excellent stretchability and deep-dyeability when contained in a fabric as a constituent fiber, and allowing a fabric with stable grade and quality with suppressed occurrence of a crepe on a woven or knitted fabric surface when used even with no twist where a textured yarn is not additionally twisted.SOLUTION: The polyester-latent crimp multifilament yarn is a polyester-latent crimp multifilament yarn which is composed of a composite fiber where two kinds of polyester resins having different heat shrinkability are joined into a side-by-side type, and which has a latent crimp property where the total fineness is 150 dtex or less and the single fiber fineness is 2.5 to 7 dtex. The potential crimp rate is 45% or more.

Description

  The present invention relates to a polyester latently crimped multifilament yarn and a method for producing the same.

  In recent years, stretchability has been strongly demanded in various clothing fields. In order to achieve the required stretchability, there is a woven or knitted fabric (fabric) composed of side-by-side filament yarn having latent crimpability (crimping by hot water treatment, that is, a property that crimps are expressed). Many have been proposed. Woven and knitted fabrics using filament yarns with such latent crimpability are not only stretchable but can also be stretch-backed and have excellent functionality, such as sports clothing and women's pants, etc. It is widely used in the field of

  However, since the crimp expressed in such a latent crimped yarn has a relatively long pitch, when the latent crimped yarn is used without being twisted to produce a woven or knitted fabric, the resulting woven or knitted fabric has large wrinkles. There is a drawback that the quality of the woven or knitted fabric is impaired. Then, the wrinkle of the woven or knitted fabric obtained from the latent crimped yarn is suppressed by a technique such as adding a twist from a medium twist region to a strong twist region to the latent crimped yarn.

  Here, the yarn to which the twist in the medium twist region to the strong twist region is added generally tends to be rigid. Therefore, in a woven or knitted fabric using such a medium to strong actual twisted yarn, there are cases where problems such as soft texture and stretchability are impaired, and gloss is lowered. Thus, it has been studied to use stretch, which is a typical means for imparting crimpability to the yarn, to further impart stretchability while suppressing the texture of the resulting woven or knitted fabric.

  For example, in Patent Document 1, a latent crimped yarn obtained by composite spinning of PBT (polybutylene terephthalate) and PET (polyethylene terephthalate) into a side-by-side type is stretched while intermittently applying an aqueous liquid, Means for performing false twisting is disclosed.

  Patent Document 2 discloses a means in which a modified PBT and an unmodified PBT are composite-spun into a side-by-side type, and then drawn into a latent crimped yarn, and then false twisted by a pin method.

JP-A-11-140739 JP 2009-138318 A

  However, all of the false twisted yarns described in Patent Documents 1 and 2 still require a twisting method on the latent crimped yarn in order to suppress the wrinkles that occur when the woven or knitted fabric undergoes a dyeing process. For this reason, there is a problem that the resulting woven or knitted fabric is wrinkled or the manufacturing process becomes complicated, and the deep dyeing property is insufficient. Further, generally, when inspecting the color difference of the produced processed yarn, the determination is made at the cylindrical knitting dyeing background, but the false twisted yarn obtained in Patent Documents 1 and 2 is used in the dyeing determination. In addition, there was a problem in terms of quality control, such as color difference variation between weights in false twisting, and a decrease in M yield.

  Furthermore, in order to solve the above-mentioned problem, the present inventors, in Japanese Patent Application No. 2010-223152, examined applying a specific high-speed drawn false twist to the undrawn yarn of the side-by-side type latent crimped yarn, Although the drawbacks of the prior art as described above are improved to some extent, the degree of improvement is still insufficient.

  The present invention sufficiently improves the above-described problems, suppresses the color difference variation between the weights of the filament yarn, and exhibits excellent stretchability and deep dyeing when included in the fabric as a constituent fiber. Polyester latent crimped multifilament yarn capable of obtaining a high-quality and stable fabric in which the occurrence of surface wrinkles is suppressed even when used without being twisted without additional twist Providing a manufacturing method is a technical problem.

  As a result of intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, the inventors of the present invention are composed of a composite fiber in which two types of polyester resins having different heat shrinkability are joined in a side-by-side manner, the total fineness is 150 dtex or less, and the single yarn fineness is 2. A polyester latent crimped multifilament yarn having a latent crimp of 5 to 7 dtex, wherein the latent crimp rate is 45% or more. The inventors have found that this can be solved and have reached the present invention.

That is, the present invention has the following contents.
(1) A polyester latent wrinkle having a latent crimp property composed of a composite fiber obtained by bonding two types of polyester resins having different heat shrinkability to a side-by-side type, having a total fineness of 150 dtex or less and a single yarn fineness of 2.5 to 7 dtex. Polyester latent crimped multifilament yarn, characterized in that it is a crimped multifilament yarn and has a latent crimp rate of 45% or more.
(2) A fabric comprising the polyester latently crimped multifilament yarn of (1) and having an L ^* value of 15 or less after black dyeing.
(3) A highly oriented unstretched yarn in which two polyester resins having a single yarn fineness of 3 to 8 dtex, an elongation of 100% or more and different heat shrinkability are joined to a side-by-side type is used as a supply yarn, After the feed yarn is subjected to heat treatment at a temperature of 20 ° C. or more higher than the drawing false twisting temperature and at a temperature of 170 to 230 ° C. under a low tension with a load of 0 to 5 gf, the following (I) and A process for producing a polyester latent-crimped multifilament yarn, which is subjected to stretch false twisting under the condition (II), wherein these steps are continuously performed at a processing speed of 150 m / min or less.
(I) The number of false twists is 25000 / (0.9 × D) ^{1/2 to} 35000 / (0.9 × D) ^1/2 . In addition, D is the total fineness (dtex) of the polyester latent crimped multifilament yarn after drawing false twisting.
(II) The drawing false twisting temperature is 140 to 180 ° C.
(4) The latent polyester crimped multifilament according to (3), wherein the supplied yarn is cooled at a low tension of a load of 0 to 35 gf after the heat treatment and before the drawing false twisting process. Yarn manufacturing method.

  According to the present invention, the variation in color difference between the weights of the filament yarn is suppressed, and when it is contained in the fabric as a constituent fiber, it can give excellent stretch properties and dark dyeing properties, and give additional twist to the processed yarn. Thus, it is possible to provide a polyester latently crimped multifilament yarn that can obtain a stable fabric of high quality with suppressed occurrence of wrinkles on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric without being twisted.

It is an example of the manufacturing apparatus used for the manufacturing method of this invention.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
First, the polyester latently crimped multifilament yarn of the present invention (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as “filament yarn”) is composed of a composite fiber in which two types of polyester resins having different heat shrinkability are joined in a side-by-side manner. Is. By using two kinds of polyester resins having different heat shrinkability, a filament yarn having latent crimpability can be obtained.

  The polyester resin is not particularly limited as long as it is two types having different heat shrinkability, and a conventionally known polyester polymer having fiber-forming properties can be arbitrarily selected and used. For example, homopolyethylene terephthalate (homoPET) in which all repeating units are substantially composed of ethylene terephthalate may be used, or 85% or more of all repeating units are ethylene terephthalate, and other components are copolymerized. Copolymerized PET can also be used.

  Examples of the copolymer component in such copolymerized PET include isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, 2,2-bis {4- (β-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane, and the like. Among these, use of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as a copolymerization component is preferable because the filament yarn of the present invention becomes a cationic dyeable yarn and increases the commercial value. In addition, polybutylene terephthalate, polytetramethylene terephthalate, and the like can be used.

  In the present invention, two types of polyester resins having different heat shrinkability are selected from the polyester resins listed above. In this respect, even if the same type of polymer (that is, the same polyester) is used, it can be said that it is two types of polyester resins having different heat shrinkage properties as long as they have different heat shrinkage properties.

  When two types of polyester resins having different heat shrinkability are the same polyester resin, the heat shrinkability can be made different by making the intrinsic viscosities different from each other. That is, PET having a relatively low intrinsic viscosity can be used as the low heat shrinkable polyester resin, and PET having a high intrinsic viscosity can be used as the high heat shrinkable polyester resin.

  When two types of polyester resins are the same, the difference in intrinsic viscosity is preferably 0.10 to 0.25 g / dl, and more preferably 0.15 to 0.20 g / dl. This is because there is an advantage that the stretch performance can be obtained stably. If the difference in intrinsic viscosity is less than 0.10 g / dl, the stretch performance becomes poor, and if the difference in intrinsic viscosity exceeds 0.25 g / dl, the spinnability may be lowered, which is not preferable.

  When different polyester resins are used, the heat shrinkability may be different even if the intrinsic viscosity is the same. In such a case, it is not always necessary to provide a difference in the intrinsic viscosity. In addition, the intrinsic viscosity of the high heat shrinkable polyester resin may be lower than the intrinsic viscosity of the low heat shrinkable polyester resin.

  For example, as a high heat-shrinkable polyester resin, one or more components of isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, and 2,2-bis [4- (B-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane are copolymerized. When copolymer PET is used and homo-PET polymer is used as the low heat-shrinkable polyester resin, the intrinsic viscosity of any polyester resin may be high because the heat-shrinkage rate of the copolymer PET polymer is relatively high.

  As a specific example in this case, 5 to 10 mol% of isophthalic acid and 3 to 8 mol% of 2,2-bis [4- (B-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane are copolymerized components as a high heat shrinkable polyester resin. And a case where PET having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.40 to 0.60 g / dl is used as the low heat-shrinkable polyester resin. It is done.

  In the present invention, as described above, it is necessary to select and use two types of polyester resins having different heat shrinkability. And the joining form of two types of different polyester resins in a multifilament yarn needs to be a side-by-side type from the point of spinnability and quality stability.

  The filament yarn of the present invention needs to have a total fineness of 150 dtex or less, preferably 130 dtex or less. When the total fineness is 150 dtex or less, it is possible to impart a dry touch texture having an appropriate sharpness to the fabric. If the total fineness exceeds 150 dtex, the texture of the fabric becomes stiff, making it inappropriate as a stretch material for clothing. The total fineness is preferably 60 to 120 dtex from the viewpoint of suppressing the occurrence of wrinkles and stabilizing the quality.

  The filament yarn of the present invention needs to have a single yarn fineness of 2.5 to 7 dtex, and preferably 4.5 to 6.5 dtex. By setting the single yarn fineness within this range, it is possible to impart a dry touch texture having an appropriate sharpness to the fabric. If the single yarn fineness is less than 2.5 dtex, there is a problem that the texture of the fabric becomes too soft. On the other hand, if the single yarn fineness exceeds 7 dtex, the fabric weight obtained from the filament yarn of the present invention becomes heavy, and the texture becomes hard. Therefore, there is a problem that a paper-like texture is obtained and a texture having a sharp feeling cannot be obtained.

  The filament yarn of the present invention needs to have latent crimpability. By having latent crimpability, a filament yarn excellent in stretchability can be obtained.

  As an index of latent crimpability, for example, even when the crimp rate before wet heat treatment is as low as 4% or less, the crimp rate when latent crimp after wet heat treatment is expressed is 45% or more. The crimp ratio is preferably 50% or more, particularly preferably 55% or more. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of suppressing the occurrence of wrinkles, the upper limit of the crimp rate when the latent crimp after the wet heat treatment is expressed is preferably 70%. A method for measuring the latent crimp rate will be described later.

  In the filament yarn of the present invention, if the above-described latent crimp rate is 45% or more, a scouring treatment, a black dyeing treatment, etc. as described later are performed on a fabric containing the filament yarn as a constituent fiber. Even so, it is presumed that an excellent deep dyeing effect can be achieved in the fabric because it can be in the same crimped state as when the latent crimp of the filament yarn is developed.

  In the multifilament yarn of the present invention, by applying a fine crimp by drawing false twisting described later and performing a wet heat treatment or the like, latent crimping is developed and manifested, and the stretch back property is remarkably improved. In addition, the surface shape of the multifilament yarn is deformed into a dense, highly crimped shape, creating gaps between the filaments, providing a moderate swell, and diffusely reflected light to the outside due to complex internal bending between the filaments. , The color depth is increased, and the deep dyeability is further improved. In addition, when the crimp ratio in which the latent crimp after the heat treatment is expressed is less than 45%, the crimp expression in the multifilament yarn becomes poor, and when the fabric is obtained using the filament yarn, the filament yarn Since it becomes easy to restrain each other to a tissue point and, as a result, stretch back property falls, it is unpreferable.

  Further, when the filament yarn of the present invention is subjected to wet heat treatment such as the above-described scouring treatment or black treatment, the filament yarn has a dense and high crimpability. As a result, even in a fabric composed of the untwisted filament yarn that has not been subjected to additional twisting, the generation of wrinkles on the surface is suppressed, and the quality is stable.

And if the fabric which contains the filament yarn of this invention as a constituent fiber is black-dyed, the fabric excellent in the deep dyeing property whose L ^* value is 15 or less can be obtained.

Next, the manufacturing method of the filament yarn of this invention is demonstrated.
First, in the production method of the present invention, a highly oriented undrawn yarn (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as “undrawn yarn”) composed of a composite fiber in which two types of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkability are joined in a side-by-side manner. Must be used as the supply yarn.

  The undrawn yarn needs to have a single yarn fineness of 3 to 8 dtex, and preferably 5.5 to 7.5 dtex. If the single yarn fineness of the undrawn yarn is less than 3 dtex, the single yarn fineness of the multifilament yarn obtained by drawing false twisting described later becomes too thin, the texture becomes too soft, and the fabric is dry touched. Unable to express the texture. Furthermore, it becomes inferior to the deep dyeing property. On the other hand, when the single yarn fineness exceeds 8 dtex, even if the drawing false twisting process is performed so as to form a yarn having high crimpability, only the filament yarn having a hard texture can be obtained because the feeling of swelling is insufficient. The problem occurs.

  The undrawn yarn needs to have an elongation of 100% or more, and is preferably in the range of 100 to 130%. If the elongation is less than 100%, the orientation of the undrawn yarn becomes insufficient, so the latent crimp rate of the resulting polyester latent crimp multifilament yarn becomes insufficient, and it is possible to impart a deep dyeing property. The problem of not occurring.

  In order to set the elongation of the undrawn yarn within the above range, it is preferable to spin at a spinning speed of 3000 to 3500 m / min.

  And, after the bundled supply yarn is subjected to heat treatment at a temperature higher by 20 ° C. or more than the drawing false twisting temperature and at a temperature of 170 to 230 ° C. with a low tension of a load of 0 to 5 gf, Next, stretch false twisting is performed under the false twist conditions of (I) and (II) below. And it is necessary to perform these processes continuously at a processing speed of 150 m / min or less.

(I) The number of false twists is 25000 / (0.9 × D) 1/2 to 35000 / (0.9 × D) 1/2. In addition, D is the total fineness (dtex) of the polyester latent crimped multifilament yarn after drawing false twisting.
(II) The drawing false twisting temperature is 140 to 180 ° C.

  In the present invention, the undrawn yarn is at a temperature higher by 20 ° C. or more than the drawn false twisting temperature, and at a relatively high processing temperature of 170 to 230 ° C., and at a low tension of 0 to 5 gf. By applying the heat treatment, the thermal efficiency for the supplied yarn is improved, and high crystallization and high orientation can be promoted. As a result, it is possible to obtain a filament yarn excellent in sharpness and dyeing quality between weights.

  The heat treatment temperature is required to be 20 ° C. or higher than the drawing false twisting temperature, preferably 30 ° C. or higher, and more preferably 40 ° C. or higher. With such a heat treatment temperature, the thermal efficiency is increased, and the resulting multifilament yarn can exhibit a deep dyeing property. In addition, it is not preferable that the heat treatment temperature is a temperature difference of less than 20 ° C. than the drawing false twisting temperature because the thermal efficiency is lowered and the sharpness and the inter-weight dyeing quality are deteriorated. The heat treatment temperature is preferably 20 ° C. or more and less than 70 ° C. of the drawing false twisting temperature.

  Furthermore, if the heat treatment temperature is lower than 170 ° C., the thermal efficiency is lowered, and it becomes impossible to improve the sharpness and the quality of dyeing between weights. On the other hand, when the temperature exceeds 230 ° C., the supply yarn is melted to cause a problem in processing operation, or the opening state between the filaments is deteriorated at the time of drawing false twisting, which is not preferable. . The heat treatment temperature is more preferably 180 to 220 ° C.

  When the tension at the time of heat treatment exceeds 5 gf, the thermal efficiency decreases, so the untwisting tension at the time of drawing false twisting (for example, the tension between the false twisting device 6 and the third take-up roller 7 in FIG. 1) becomes high. This causes a problem that the internal physical property difference between the weights increases and the staining difference increases. The tension during the heat treatment is preferably 0 to 3 gf.

  The shape of the heater used during the heat treatment is a non-contact heater from the viewpoint that the thermal efficiency of the undrawn yarn is stable and that yarn breakage and fluffing during false twisting can be suppressed and quality can be improved. Is desirable.

  Furthermore, it is preferable to cool the supply yarn at a low tension of 0 to 35 gf, preferably 0 to 15 gf, and particularly preferably at room temperature, after heat treatment under the above-described conditions. Thereby, since the thread | yarn which acquired the heat effect | action is quenched, the internal physical property difference between weights can be stabilized.

  In addition, even if the tension during the heat treatment is 0 gf, the heat treatment is performed under the condition that the overfeed rate of the supplied yarn before and after the heat treatment and / or before and after the cooling zone is 0 to 10%. Since the twisting tension at the time of false twisting (for example, the tension between the false twist heater 5 and false twist device 6 in FIG. 1) becomes lower, the internal physical property difference between the weights becomes smaller and the dyeing difference becomes smaller. At the same time, the deep dyeing property is also improved, which is particularly preferable. The overfeed rate of the supply yarn is preferably 1 to 8%, more preferably 3 to 7%.

  As described above, the yarn subjected to the pretreatment before the drawing false twisting is then subjected to the drawing false twisting under specific false twisting conditions so that the amount of twist deformation of the yarn is small. However, it can be a filament yarn to which latent crimpability and fine crimp are added.

The number of false twists (T / M) when the total fineness of the polyester latent crimped multifilament yarn after drawing false twisting is D (dtex) is 25000 / (0.9 × D) ^{1/2 to} 35000. /(0.9×D) ^1/2 and preferably 28000 / (0.9 × D) ^{1/2 to} 33000 / (0.9 × D) ^1/2 . If the number of false twists during drawing false twisting is less than 25000 / (0.9 × D) ^1/2 , high crimpability cannot be obtained and stretchability cannot be imparted. Further, there is a problem that heat is not uniformly applied to the supply yarn, and the dyeing quality between the weights is inferior. On the other hand, if it exceeds 35000 / (0.9 × D) ^1/2 , yarn breakage occurs frequently, and problems in terms of processing operation appear.

  Furthermore, in the production method of the present invention, when the heater temperature during drawing false twisting is less than 140 ° C., there is a problem that the thermal efficiency for the yarn is deteriorated and high crimpability cannot be imparted. On the other hand, when the drawing false twisting temperature exceeds 180 ° C., the supply yarns are easily fused to each other, and there is a problem that the silky feeling is emphasized and the silky feeling is reduced. Further, there is a problem that heat is not uniformly applied to the supply yarn, and the dyeing quality between the weights and the deep dyeing property are poor.

  The draw ratio in draw false twisting is preferably 1.3 to 1.7 times, and more preferably 1.4 to 1.6 times. If it is less than 1.3 times, there is a problem that the working tension at the time of drawing false twisting is lowered, yarn breakage is likely to occur, and processing operability is lowered. On the other hand, if it exceeds 1.7 times, there is a problem that yarn breakage or processed yarn breakage fluff is likely to occur during the processing.

  Moreover, in the manufacturing method of this invention, it is necessary to perform said process continuously with the processing speed of 150 m / min or less. When the processing speed exceeds 150 m / min, it becomes difficult to set high processing conditions as the processing conditions are difficult to set. Moreover, it is preferable that a processing speed is 80-130 m / min from the balance of processing cost and the number of false twists.

  In addition, it does not specifically limit as a drawing false twist apparatus used for this invention, Although a well-known thing can be used suitably, while being able to express high crimpability, as a yarn path | pass of a process process, after heat processing Those capable of securing a cooling zone at room temperature for stabilizing the internal structure of the yarn are preferred.

  Furthermore, the filament yarn of the present invention obtained by the above-described production method may be subjected to additional twisting of about 500 to 2000 T / M from the viewpoint of further improving the texture.

The manufacturing method of the present invention will be described below with reference to FIG.
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of steps showing an embodiment of the method for producing a polyester latent crimp multifilament yarn of the present invention. The supply yarn (polyester side-by-side highly oriented undrawn yarn Y) is subjected to high-temperature heat treatment under low tension by a heat treatment heater 2 installed between the supply roller 1 and the first take-up roller 3, Next, the first take-up roller 3 and the second take-up roller 4 are cooled in a low tension state at room temperature. Continuously, crimping is performed between the second take-up roller 4 and the third take-up roller 7 using a false twist heater 5 and a pin type false twist device 6 under specific draw false twist conditions. By being applied, the polyester latently crimped multifilament yarn of the present invention is obtained. The multifilament yarn passes through the third take-up roller 7 and is wound up on the package 9 by the take-up roller 8.

  And when the filament yarn is subjected to heat treatment under the conditions as described above, latent crimpability other than that derived from the side-by-side structure is imparted, the yarn surface form becomes dense, and expresses high crimpability. Become. In addition, the filament yarns bend in a complex manner, and the degree of dye adsorption is made uniform. As a result, there is an effect that variation in color difference between weights is suppressed and a filament yarn having high stretchability is obtained. Furthermore, even if the filament yarn is used as a constituent fiber of the fabric without additional twisting (that is, in a non-twisted state), it is possible to prevent occurrence of wrinkles on the surface of the fabric.

  The form of the fabric (woven or knitted fabric) containing the filament yarn of the present invention as a constituent fiber is not particularly limited. In the case of a woven fabric, a plain structure, a twill structure, a satin structure, or a changed structure by dobby or jacquard, etc. Is mentioned. Examples of the knitted fabric include a weft knitting, a tricot knitting, and a raschel knitting.

  The content ratio of the filament yarn of the present invention in such a fabric is 50% by mass or more with respect to the entire fabric from the viewpoint of efficiently expressing the effects of the present invention (stretchability, wrinkle suppression, deep dyeability). Is more preferable, 75% by mass or more is more preferable, and 100% by mass is particularly preferable.

  And, by performing scouring treatment and black dyeing on the fabric having such a form, it is possible to suppress the shakiness and the color difference variation between the weights of the processed yarn, and also have excellent stretch properties and deep dyeing, The occurrence of wrinkles is prevented.

  Further, the fabric of the present invention may be subjected to various processes such as dark dyeing, alkali weight loss, softness, antistatic, water repellency as well as dyeing in the finishing process.

  EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

The evaluation method used in the present invention is shown below.
(1) Fineness Measured according to the method of JIS L1013 8.3.1.

(2) Potential crimp rate (stretchability)
From the filament yarns obtained in the examples and comparative examples, a casserole with a winding number of 5 was prepared using a measuring machine having a frame circumference of 1.125 m, and left for a day and night in a state of being hung on a stand. Next, a load of 0.000147 cN / dtex (load 1) was applied to the casserole, and it was placed in boiling water for 30 minutes of wet heat treatment. Next, with the load 1 applied, a light load (load 2) of 0.00177 cN / dtex was further applied, and the length A of the cassette was measured. Next, only the load 2 was removed, a heavy load of 0.044 cN / dtex was applied, and the length B of the cassette was measured. The latent crimp rate was calculated using the following formula.
Potential crimp rate (%) = [(B−A) / B] × 100

(3) Elongation It measured according to the method of JIS L1013 8.5.5.

(4) L ^* value After scouring and black dyeing under the following conditions, the following reflectance was measured to determine the L ^* value. That is, the fabrics obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples were prepared at 80 ° C. using an aqueous solution in which a scouring agent (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd., “Sanmor FL”) was dissolved in water at a concentration of 2 g / L. Scouring was carried out under the conditions of 20 minutes, then disperse dye (Dystar Co., “Dianix Black HG-FS” (200%), 7.5% omf), dyeing assistant (Nikka Chemical Co., “Nikka” Staining was carried out at 135 ° C. for 30 minutes using “Sun Salt SN-130”, 0.5 cc / L) and acetic acid (0.2 cc / L). The bath ratio at that time was 1:50.

Then, it wash | cleaned at 80 degreeC * 20 minutes using the reducing cleaning agent (one company oil and fat industry company make, "Bisnol P-55") (5g / L). And the reflectance was measured with respect to the cloth after washing using a spectrophotometer (manufactured by Macbeth, “MS-CE3100 type”), and the L ^* value was determined from the color difference formula of CIE Lab. The L ^* value becomes deeper as the value is smaller.

(5) Inter-weight dyeing quality (cylinder dyeing evaluation)
A cylindrical knitted fabric was prepared for each filament by the obtained filaments, and the dyeing quality between the spindles was visually evaluated according to the following criteria.
A: There was almost no variation in the dyeing quality, and it was very good.
A: Good with little variation in dyeing quality.
(Triangle | delta): There existed dispersion | variation in dyeing | staining quality and was a little bad.
X: There was variation in the dyeing quality, which was bad.

(6) Deep dyeing (sensory evaluation)
The surface of the obtained fabric was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
A: The target deep dyeing (deep hue) was particularly satisfied, and it was very good.
A: Satisfying the target deep dyeability, and good.
(Triangle | delta): It did not fully satisfy the target deep dyeing property, but was a little bad.
X: It was bad without satisfying the target deep dyeability.

(7) Stretchability and sharp texture The tactile sensation of the obtained fabric was confirmed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
○: The target stretch property was satisfied, and the texture was good.
(Triangle | delta): The target stretch property was not fully satisfied, and the texture was a little bad.
X: The target stretch property was not satisfied, and the texture was bad.

Example 1
High thermal shrinkage of copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate (PET) (intrinsic viscosity: 0.63) containing 8 mol% isophthalic acid and 5 mol% 2,2-bis [4- (B-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane as a copolymerization component Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) (intrinsic viscosity: 0.53) was used as the low heat shrinkable polyester resin. Then, both polyester resins were combined and spun together while being side-by-side, and 90 dtex 12 filament highly oriented undrawn yarn (mass ratio: high viscosity side / low viscosity side: 60/40, spinning speed: 3250 m / min, elongation: 110%).

  Using the obtained undrawn yarn as a supply yarn, a polyester latent-crimped multifilament yarn of the present invention was produced under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the process shown in FIG. The filament yarn obtained was 68 dtex / 12 filament. The filament yarn having the latent crimpability was used as a warp and weft in a non-twisted state to weave a flat double woven fabric (warp density: 175 / 2.54 cm, weft density: 129 / 2.54 cm).

  The obtained woven fabric was subjected to scouring, black dyeing and washing treatment by the method (4) described above. Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained multifilament yarn and fabric.

なお、表１において「ｏｆ率」はオーバーフィード率を表す。

In Table 1, “of rate” represents an overfeed rate.

(Example 2)
A multifilament yarn was obtained by the same processing method and stretch false twisting conditions as in Example 1 except that a cooling zone at room temperature was not provided for the heat-treated yarn, and a fabric was further obtained. Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained multifilament yarn and fabric.

(Example 3)
Without using the first take-up roller, the supply roller speed and the second take-up roller speed were changed as shown in Table 1, and heat treatment and room temperature were performed between the supply roller and the second take-up roller in a relaxed state. Except for cooling, a multifilament yarn was obtained under the same processing method and stretch false twisting conditions as in Example 1, and a fabric was further obtained. Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained multifilament yarn and fabric.

(Comparative Example 1)
A multifilament yarn and a fabric were obtained under the same processing method and drawn false twisting conditions as in Example 1 except that the heater temperature during the heat treatment before the drawn false twisting was 165 ° C. Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained multifilament yarn and fabric.

(Comparative Example 2)
A multifilament yarn and a fabric were obtained under the same processing method and drawn false twist conditions as in Example 1 except that the drawn false twisting temperature was 185 ° C. Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained multifilament yarn and fabric.

(Comparative Example 3)
A multifilament yarn and a fabric were obtained under the same processing method and stretch false twist conditions as in Example 1, except that the number of false twists during the stretch false twisting was reduced to 3050 T / M (Z twist). Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained multifilament yarn and fabric.

(Comparative Example 4)
A multifilament yarn and a fabric were obtained by the same processing method and stretching false twisting conditions as in Example 1 except that the number of false twists during the stretching false twisting was increased to 4550 T / M (Z twist). Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained multifilament yarn and fabric. In Comparative Example 4, yarn breakage occurred and stable supply could not be performed.

(Comparative Example 5)
A multifilament yarn was obtained under the same processing method and drawn false twist conditions as in Comparative Example 3 except that the supply yarn was changed from 90 dtex12 filament to 200 dtex24 filament. The obtained multifilament yarn was used as a warp and weft in a non-twisted state to weave a flat double woven fabric (warp density: 118 yarns / 2.54 cm, weft density: 89 yarns / 2.54 cm). The obtained raw machine was subjected to scouring, black dyeing and washing treatment by the method (4) described above. Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained multifilament yarn and fabric.

(Comparative Example 6)
A multifilament yarn and a fabric were obtained under the same processing method and drawn false twist conditions as in Example 1 except that the elongation of the supplied yarn was 86%. Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained multifilament yarn and fabric.

(Comparative Example 7)
Example 1 except that the feed yarn elongation was 110% and the feed roller and first take-up roller speeds were adjusted as shown in Table 1 so that the processing tension in the heat treatment zone was 25 gf. A multifilament yarn was obtained under the processing method and drawn false twisting conditions. The obtained multifilament yarn was used as a warp in a non-twisted state, and a flat double woven fabric was woven (warp density: 181 yarns / 2.54 cm, weft density: 135 yarns / 2.54 cm). The obtained raw machine was subjected to scouring, black dyeing and washing treatment by the method (4) described above. Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained multifilament yarn and fabric.

(Comparative Example 8)
A multifilament yarn and a fabric were obtained under the same processing method and drawn false twist conditions as in Example 1 except that the supply yarn was changed from 90 dtex 12 filament to 90 dtex 48 filament and the single yarn fineness was changed to 1.87 dtex. Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained multifilament yarn and fabric.

  Although the fabric obtained in Example 1 was untwisted, it did not have a wrinkle feeling, added a sense of sharpness, and exhibited high stretchability. In particular, since a cooling zone at room temperature was provided for the yarn after the heat treatment, it had particularly excellent characteristics in deep dyeing.

  Although the fabric obtained in Example 2 was non-twisted, it did not have a wrinkle feeling, added a sharp feeling, and additionally had high stretchability and deep dyeability.

  Since the fabric obtained in Example 3 is heat-treated and cooled in a more relaxed state than Example 1, there is no wrinkle feeling despite being untwisted, adding a sense of sharpness, and adding In addition, it has remarkably excellent characteristics such as high stretchability and deep dyeability.

  In Comparative Example 1, since the heat treatment temperature before drawing false twisting was low, the obtained fabric had color difference variation between processed weights, and lacked a sense of sharpness and lacked a dry touch.

  In Comparative Example 2, since the temperature during drawing false twisting was high outside the range of the present invention, heat was not uniformly applied to the supply yarn, and the deep dyeability was poor. In addition, since the obtained multifilament yarn was confirmed to have a large number of cut fluffs, the open state during weaving was poor, and there was a problem in the quality of the fabric.

  In Comparative Example 3, since the false twist number deviated from the range of the present invention, the quality of the multifilament yarn was inferior, and in particular, it was not possible to obtain a sense of sharpness in terms of stretch properties and texture.

  In Comparative Example 4, since the false twist number deviated from the range of the present invention, the quality of the obtained multifilament yarn was inferior, and furthermore, the multifilament yarn could not be stably supplied.

  In Comparative Example 5, since the single yarn fineness of the supplied yarn was out of the range of the present invention, the fabric texture was hard, and in particular, it was not possible to obtain a sharp feeling on the texture surface.

  In Comparative Example 6, since the elongation of the supplied yarn was low outside the scope of the present invention, the latent crimp rate of the obtained multifilament yarn was insufficient, lacking a sharp feeling, and excellent in deep dyeability. A fabric could not be obtained.

  In Comparative Example 7, the processing tension at the time of heat treatment was high outside the range of the present invention, so that the sense of sharpness was insufficient and there was color difference variation between processing weights.

  In Comparative Example 8, since the single yarn fineness of the supplied yarn was fine outside the scope of the present invention, in the obtained fabric, a soft texture was obtained, but a soft feeling was obtained and a dry touch texture was obtained. I could not. Furthermore, it was inferior to the deep dyeing property.

Y Side-by-side latent crimped highly oriented undrawn yarn 1 Supply roller 2 Heat treatment heater 3 First take-up roller 4 Second take-up roller 5 False twist heater 6 Pin type false twist device 7 Third take-up roller 8 Take-up roller 9 package

Claims (4)

  Polyester latent crimped multifilament having a latent crimp property composed of a composite fiber in which two kinds of polyester resins having different heat shrinkability are joined in a side-by-side type, having a total fineness of 150 dtex or less and a single yarn fineness of 2.5 to 7 dtex. A polyester latent crimp multifilament yarn, characterized in that the latent crimp rate is 45% or more. A fabric comprising the polyester latently crimped multifilament yarn according to claim 1 and having an L ^* value of 15 or less after black dyeing. Using a highly oriented unstretched yarn obtained by joining two types of polyester resins having a single yarn fineness of 3 to 8 dtex and an elongation of 100% or more and having different heat shrinkability in a side-by-side manner, After heat treatment at a temperature higher by 20 ° C. or more than the drawing false twisting temperature and at a temperature of 170 to 230 ° C. under a low tension with a load of 0 to 5 gf, the following (I) and (II) A process for producing a polyester latently crimped multifilament yarn, which is subjected to drawing false twisting under the following conditions, wherein these steps are continuously performed at a processing speed of 150 m / min or less.
(I) The number of false twists is 25000 / (0.9 × D) ^{1/2 to} 35000 / (0.9 × D) ^1/2 . In addition, D is the total fineness (dtex) of the polyester latent crimped multifilament yarn after drawing false twisting.
(II) The drawing false twisting temperature is 140 to 180 ° C.   The polyester latent crimped multifilament yarn according to claim 3, wherein the supplied yarn is cooled at a low tension of 0 to 35 gf after the heat treatment and before the drawing false twisting. Manufacturing method.

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