JPH05295670A - Production of polyester-based woven and knitted fabric - Google Patents
Production of polyester-based woven and knitted fabricInfo
- Publication number
- JPH05295670A JPH05295670A JP4117924A JP11792492A JPH05295670A JP H05295670 A JPH05295670 A JP H05295670A JP 4117924 A JP4117924 A JP 4117924A JP 11792492 A JP11792492 A JP 11792492A JP H05295670 A JPH05295670 A JP H05295670A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- woven
- polyester
- knitted
- knitted fabric
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
Landscapes
- Multicomponent Fibers (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Coloring (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Abstract
Description
【０００１】[0001]
【産業上の利用分野】本発明は、ポリエステル系繊維よ
りなる織編物の製造方法に関し、特に深みのある色彩を
有すると共に、風合の良好な織編物の製造方法に関する
ものである。BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a woven or knitted material made of polyester fiber, and more particularly to a method for producing a woven or knitted material having a deep color and a good texture.
【０００２】[0002]
【従来の技術】ポリエステル系繊維を用いて製編織され
た織編物は、優れた物理的特性及び化学的特性を有して
おり、衣料用や工業用等に広く用いられている。しか
し、ウールや絹等の天然繊維を用いて製編織された織編
物、あるいはレーヨンやアセテート等の半合成繊維を用
いて製編織された織編物に比べて、色彩（特に黒色）の
深みや色彩の鮮明性に劣るという欠点を有している。こ
れは、ポリエステル系繊維の表面状態が、天然繊維や半
合成繊維に比べて、平滑で且つ均一なため、入射光が織
編物の内部で屈折しにくく、外部への乱反射光が多いか
らであると考えられている。2. Description of the Related Art Woven and knitted fabrics woven and knitted using polyester fibers have excellent physical and chemical properties and are widely used for clothing and industrial purposes. However, compared to woven and knitted fabrics woven and knitted using natural fibers such as wool and silk, or woven and knitted fabrics using semi-synthetic fibers such as rayon and acetate, the depth and color of the color (especially black) It has a drawback that it is inferior in sharpness. This is because the surface state of the polyester fiber is smoother and more uniform than that of natural fiber or semi-synthetic fiber, so that the incident light is difficult to be refracted inside the woven or knitted fabric and a lot of diffused light is reflected to the outside. It is believed that.
【０００３】このため、ポリエステル系繊維の表面を凹
凸にして、入射光が織編物の内部で屈折しやすいように
して、外部への乱反射光を少なくし、色彩の深みや色彩
の鮮明性を向上させることが試みられている。例えば、
織編物の表面、即ちポリエステル系繊維の表面を、酸化
珪素粒子等の低屈折率の物質で被覆する方法が提案され
ている（特公平2-35069号公報）。また、特定化合物を
含有したアルカリ水溶液に織編物を浸漬し、ポリエステ
ル系繊維の表面を加水分解して、繊維表面を粗にする方
法も提案されている（特公平2-35068号公報）。しかし
ながら、前者の方法は、低屈折率の物質をポリエステル
系繊維表面に付与するために、織編物の風合の低下を招
くという欠点があった。更に、洗濯を繰り返すと、低屈
折率の物質が繊維表面から脱落し、色彩が褪せてくると
いう欠点があった。また、後者の方法は、ポリエステル
系繊維の表面を溶解除去するものであるため、繊維強度
が低下し、織編物の機械的強度（例えば引張強度）が低
下するという欠点があった。更に、これらの方法は、低
屈折率の物質を付与する工程や、アルカリ減量処理工程
を必要とし、編織物の生産工程が煩雑となって、合理的
な方法とは言えなかった。For this reason, the surface of the polyester fiber is made uneven so that the incident light is easily refracted inside the woven or knitted fabric, the diffused light reflected to the outside is reduced, and the depth of color and the sharpness of color are improved. Attempting to let it happen. For example,
A method has been proposed in which the surface of a woven or knitted material, that is, the surface of a polyester fiber is coated with a substance having a low refractive index such as silicon oxide particles (Japanese Patent Publication No. 2-35069). A method has also been proposed in which a woven or knitted material is dipped in an alkaline aqueous solution containing a specific compound to hydrolyze the surface of the polyester fiber to roughen the fiber surface (Japanese Patent Publication No. 2-35068). However, the former method has a drawback in that the texture of the woven or knitted fabric is deteriorated because a substance having a low refractive index is applied to the surface of the polyester fiber. Further, when the washing is repeated, a substance having a low refractive index comes off from the surface of the fiber and the color fades. Further, the latter method has a drawback that the strength of the fiber is lowered and the mechanical strength (for example, tensile strength) of the woven or knitted material is lowered because the surface of the polyester fiber is dissolved and removed. Further, these methods require a step of applying a substance having a low refractive index and an alkali weight loss treatment step, which complicates the knitted fabric production step and cannot be said to be a rational method.
【０００４】[0004]
【発明が解決しようとする課題】そこで、本発明は、あ
る特定のポリエステル系潜在捲縮性複合繊維を使用する
と共にこの複合繊維で構成された糸条に特定の撚を施す
ことにより、特別な工程を必要とすることなく、従来の
一般的な方法で織編物を生産すれば、それだけで深みの
ある色彩を有し、且つ良好な風合を有する織編物が得ら
れるようにしたものである。Therefore, the present invention provides a special polyester-based latently crimpable conjugate fiber, and by applying a particular twist to a yarn composed of this conjugate fiber, a special twist is obtained. By producing a woven or knitted fabric by a conventional general method without requiring a process, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having a deep color and a good texture by itself. ..
【０００５】[0005]
【課題を解決するための手段】即ち、本発明は、沸水30
分処理後の捲縮率が50％以上であるポリエステル系潜在
捲縮性複合繊維で構成された糸条に、下記式に示す撚係
数Ｋが7500〜25000の範囲で加撚し、引き続き熱セット
を施して加撚糸条を得、該加撚糸条を用いて織編物を得
た後、該織編物に熱処理を施して、該ポリエステル系潜
在捲縮性複合繊維に捲縮を発現させると共に、該織編物
に染色加工を施すことを特徴とするポリエステル系織編
物の製造方法に関するものである。 記 Ｔ＝Ｋ×［１／（Ｄ）1/2］（式中、Ｔは１ｍ当たりの
撚数を示し、Ｄは糸条のデニール数を示す。）That is, the present invention is based on boiling water 30
A twist composed of polyester latently crimpable conjugate fibers having a crimping rate of 50% or more after the splitting treatment is twisted within a twist coefficient K of 7500 to 25000 shown in the following formula, and then heat set. To obtain a twisted yarn, and after obtaining a woven or knitted product using the twisted yarn, heat-treating the woven or knitted product to develop crimps in the polyester latent crimpable conjugate fiber, and The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester woven or knitted fabric, which comprises subjecting the woven or knitted fabric to a dyeing process. Note T = K × [1 / (D) 1/2 ] (In the formula, T represents the number of twists per 1 m, and D represents the number of denier of the yarn.)
【０００６】本発明においては、ポリエステル系潜在捲
縮性複合繊維を準備する。この複合繊維は潜在捲縮性で
あるため、熱処理することによって、捲縮を発現するも
のである。本発明において、この捲縮の発現の程度は、
沸水30分処理後の捲縮率が50％以上となるようにする。
ここで、沸水30分処理後の捲縮率とは、以下に示す方法
で測定されるものである。即ち、検尺機にて５回かせ取
りしたポリエステル系潜在捲縮性複合繊維を、二重にし
て1/6000(g/D)の荷重をかけスタンドに吊り30分間放置
し、次いでこの状態を維持したまま沸水中に入れ30分間
処理する。その後、30分間風乾し、1/500(g/D)の荷重を
かけ、長さ（ａ）を測定する。次に、1/500(g/D)の荷重
をはずした後、1/20(g/D)の荷重をかけて、その長さ
（ｂ）を測定する。そして、次の式によって捲縮率を求
めるのである。即ち、捲縮率（％）＝［（ｂ−ａ）／
ｂ］×100である。この捲縮率が50％未満であると、複
合繊維に熱処理を施しても、微細なスパイラル状の捲縮
が発現しにくく、したがって複合繊維表面に微細な凹凸
が生じにくく、深みのある色彩が得にくくなるので、好
ましくない。In the present invention, a polyester-based latently crimpable conjugate fiber is prepared. Since this composite fiber has a latent crimping property, it is crimped by heat treatment. In the present invention, the degree of expression of this crimp is
The crimp ratio after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes should be 50% or more.
Here, the crimping rate after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes is measured by the method described below. That is, the polyester latently crimpable conjugate fiber skeined five times with a measuring machine is doubled and hung on a stand for a load of 1/6000 (g / D) and left for 30 minutes. Keep it in the boiling water for 30 minutes. Then, air-dry for 30 minutes, apply a load of 1/500 (g / D), and measure the length (a). Next, after removing the load of 1/500 (g / D), the load of 1/20 (g / D) is applied and the length (b) is measured. Then, the crimp ratio is calculated by the following formula. That is, the crimp ratio (%) = [(ba) /
b] × 100. When the crimping rate is less than 50%, even if the composite fiber is subjected to heat treatment, it is difficult for the fine spiral-shaped crimps to be developed, and therefore, fine irregularities are unlikely to occur on the surface of the composite fiber, resulting in a deep color. It is not preferable because it is difficult to obtain.
【０００７】本発明で使用するポリエステル系潜在捲縮
性複合繊維は、二種のポリエステル成分で構成されてい
る。そして、この二種のポリエステル成分の収縮差によ
って捲縮を発現するものである。例えば、極限粘度
［η］の高いポリエステル系第一成分と、極限粘度の低
いポリエステル系第二成分とが、サイドバイサイド型又
は偏心芯鞘型に接合された複合繊維が用いられる。具体
的には、極限粘度［η］が0.70以上のポリエステル系第
一成分と、極限粘度［η］が0.55以下の第二成分とが、
サイドバイサイド型又は偏心芯鞘型に接合された複合繊
維が好適に使用しうる。極限粘度［η］が0.70以上のポ
リエステル系第一成分は、例えば、構造単位の85モル％
以上がポリエチレンテレフタレートであり、他の15モル
％以下が他のポリエステルである共重合体を使用して得
ることができる。また、極限粘度［η］が0.55以下の第
二成分は、例えば、構造単位の95モル％がポリエチレン
テレフタレートである重合体を使用して得ることができ
る。このような複合繊維は、ポリエステル系第一成分が
高収縮性を示し、ポリエステル系第二成分が低収縮性を
示すため、熱処理を施すことによって、収縮差が生じ、
捲縮を発現するのである。また、高収縮性を示すポリエ
ステル系第一成分の共重合体は、微細構造がルーズなた
めか、染着性が高く、捲縮の発現との相乗効果により深
みのある色彩が得られるのである。なお、ここで言う極
限粘度［η］は、20℃のフェノールとテトラクロロエタ
ンとの等重量混合溶媒中で測定したものである。The polyester latently crimpable conjugate fiber used in the present invention is composed of two kinds of polyester components. Then, crimp is expressed by the difference in shrinkage between the two polyester components. For example, a composite fiber in which a polyester-based first component having a high intrinsic viscosity [η] and a polyester-based second component having a low intrinsic viscosity are joined in a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type is used. Specifically, a polyester-based first component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.70 or more and a second component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.55 or less,
A composite fiber joined in a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type can be preferably used. The polyester-based first component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.70 or more is, for example, 85 mol% of the structural unit.
The above is polyethylene terephthalate, and it can be obtained by using a copolymer in which another 15 mol% or less is another polyester. The second component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.55 or less can be obtained, for example, by using a polymer in which 95 mol% of the structural unit is polyethylene terephthalate. In such a composite fiber, since the polyester-based first component exhibits high shrinkability and the polyester-based second component exhibits low shrinkability, a difference in shrinkage is caused by heat treatment,
It develops crimps. Further, the polyester-based first component copolymer exhibiting high shrinkability has a high dyeing property, probably because the fine structure is loose, and a deep color can be obtained by the synergistic effect with the expression of crimps. .. The intrinsic viscosity [η] here is measured in a solvent of equal weight mixture of phenol and tetrachloroethane at 20 ° C.
【０００８】以上説明したポリエステル系潜在捲縮性複
合繊維を用いて糸条を得る。この糸条としては、ポリエ
ステル系潜在捲縮性複合繊維よりなるモノフィラメント
が複数本集束されてなるマルチフィラメント糸条や、ポ
リエステル系潜在捲縮性複合繊維よりなるステープルフ
ァイバーが紡績されてなる紡績糸条等を用いることがで
きる。本発明において重要なことは、この糸条に、撚係
数Ｋが7500〜25000の範囲で加撚を施すことである。こ
こで、撚係数Ｋは、Ｔ＝Ｋ×［１／（Ｄ）1/2］（式
中、Ｔは１ｍ当たりの撚数を示し、Ｄは糸条のデニール
数を示す。）で定義されるものである。糸条に、このよ
うな範囲の撚を与えることによって、複合繊維の捲縮発
現と撚との相乗作用による、糸条表面への微細な凹凸の
形成が促進されるのである。従って、撚係数が7500未満
であると、糸条の撚が不十分であって、糸条表面に微細
な凹凸が形成されにくくなるので、好ましくない。逆
に、撚係数が25000を超えると、糸条の剛性が大きくな
って、製織時等においてスナールが発生しやすくなると
共に、得られる織編物の風合が硬化するので、好ましく
ない。A yarn is obtained using the polyester latently crimpable conjugate fiber described above. Examples of the yarn include a multifilament yarn in which a plurality of monofilaments made of polyester latently crimpable conjugate fibers are bundled, and a spun yarn made by spinning staple fibers made of polyester latently crimpable conjugate fibers. Etc. can be used. What is important in the present invention is that the yarn is twisted with a twist coefficient K in the range of 7500 to 25000. Here, the twist coefficient K is defined by T = K × [1 / (D) 1/2 ] (where T represents the number of twists per 1 m, and D represents the number of denier of the yarn). It is something. By providing the yarn with a twist in such a range, formation of fine irregularities on the yarn surface is promoted by a synergistic effect of the crimp expression of the composite fiber and the twist. Therefore, if the twist coefficient is less than 7500, the twist of the yarn is insufficient and it becomes difficult to form fine irregularities on the yarn surface, which is not preferable. On the other hand, if the twist coefficient exceeds 25,000, the rigidity of the yarn increases, snare is likely to occur during weaving, and the texture of the obtained woven or knitted material is hardened, which is not preferable.
【０００９】糸条に加撚を施した後、引き続き熱セット
を施す。熱セットの条件は、80〜85℃で30〜45分程度が
好ましい。この熱セットによって、糸条の形態を安定化
させるのである。熱セットを省略すると、製織工程等に
おいて、トルクが発現して糸条同士が絡み合いやすく、
製織性等を低下させるので、好ましくない。以上のよう
にして得られた加撚糸条を、経糸若しくは緯糸のいずれ
か一方に使用して、又は経糸及び緯糸の両方に使用し
て、織物を製織する。織組織としては、従来公知の任意
の織組織を採用することができる。または、この加撚糸
条を用いて編物を製編する。編組織も、インターロック
やモックロディー等の従来公知の任意の編組織を採用す
ることができる。After twisting the yarn, it is subsequently heat set. The heat setting conditions are preferably 80 to 85 ° C. and 30 to 45 minutes. This heat setting stabilizes the yarn form. When the heat setting is omitted, torque is easily generated in the weaving process and the threads are easily entangled,
It is not preferable because it lowers the weaving property. The twisted yarn obtained as described above is used for either one of the warp and the weft, or for both the warp and the weft, to weave a woven fabric. As the woven structure, any conventionally known woven structure can be adopted. Alternatively, a knitted product is knitted using this twisted yarn. As the knitting structure, any conventionally known knitting structure such as interlock or mock roddy can be adopted.
【００１０】このような織編物に、熱処理及び染色加工
処理を施す。熱処理と染色加工処理は、別工程で施して
もよいし、同時に一工程で施してもよい。特に、同時に
一工程で熱処理と染色加工処理を施すのが、合理的であ
る。同時に施す方法としては、染色する際に、湿熱80℃
以上の温度が30分以上織編物に与えるられる条件を採用
すればよい。この条件で染色仕上加工を行なうと、ポリ
エステル系潜在捲縮性複合繊維に微細な捲縮が発現する
と共に、複合繊維が染色されるのである。また、この条
件で染色仕上加工を行なう際には、織編物に高張力が負
荷されないように、液流染色機等を使用するのが好まし
い。この染色仕上加工時に、高張力が負荷されると、ポ
リエステル系潜在捲縮性複合繊維の捲縮発現が阻害され
たり、或いは一旦発現した捲縮が消失する傾向が生じ
る。Such a woven or knitted material is subjected to heat treatment and dyeing processing. The heat treatment and the dyeing treatment may be performed in separate steps, or may be performed in one step at the same time. In particular, it is rational to perform the heat treatment and the dyeing processing treatment in one step at the same time. As a method to apply at the same time, when dyeing, wet heat 80 ° C
It is only necessary to adopt the condition that the above temperature is applied to the woven or knitted fabric for 30 minutes or more. When the dyeing finishing process is performed under these conditions, the polyester-based latent crimpable conjugate fiber develops fine crimps and the conjugate fiber is dyed. Further, when performing dyeing finishing under these conditions, it is preferable to use a jet dyeing machine or the like so that high tension is not applied to the woven or knitted fabric. If a high tension is applied during this dyeing and finishing process, the occurrence of crimps in the polyester latently crimpable conjugate fiber tends to be hindered, or the crimps once expressed tend to disappear.
【００１１】以上のようにしてポリエステル系織編物が
得られるわけであるが、織編物の風合を更に向上させる
ために、アルカリ減量処理を施してもよい。アルカリ減
量処理は、一般的に、織編物に熱処理及び染色加工処理
を施す前に行なわれる。また、アルカリ減量処理の方法
は、従来公知の任意の方法を採用することができる。ま
た、織編物に熱処理及び染色加工処理を施した後、色彩
の深みを更に向上させるために、濃染処理を施してもよ
い。濃染処理剤としては、ポリウレタン系樹脂やフッ素
系樹脂等を使用するのが好ましい。The polyester-based woven or knitted product is obtained as described above, but in order to further improve the texture of the woven or knitted product, alkali reduction treatment may be carried out. The alkali weight reduction treatment is generally performed before the woven or knitted fabric is subjected to the heat treatment and the dyeing treatment. Further, as the method of alkali reduction treatment, any conventionally known method can be adopted. Further, after the woven or knitted fabric is subjected to the heat treatment and the dyeing process, the deep dyeing process may be performed to further improve the depth of color. As the deep dyeing treatment agent, it is preferable to use a polyurethane resin, a fluorine resin or the like.
【００１２】[0012]
実施例 イソフタル酸12モル％と、エチレングリコール及びテレ
フタル酸とを共重合させてポリエステル系第一成分を得
た。一方、エチレングリコール及びテレフタル酸を共重
合させて、極限粘度［η］0.49のポリエステル系第二成
分を得た。この二成分を用いて、従来公知の複合紡糸法
で、サイドバイサイド型の未延伸糸を得た。この未延伸
糸を延伸して、サイドバイサイド型潜在捲縮性複合繊維
とし、これを集束して50デニール／12フィラメントのマ
ルチフィラメント糸条を得た。なお、このサイドバイサ
イド型潜在捲縮性複合繊維は、沸水30分処理後の捲縮率
が69.5％であった。このマルチフィラメント糸条に撚係
数Ｋ21000，S/Z3000Ｔ／Ｍの加撚を施し、引き続き80
℃，40分間の条件で真空熱セットを行ない、加撚糸条を
得た。Example 12 mol% of isophthalic acid was copolymerized with ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid to obtain a polyester-based first component. On the other hand, ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid were copolymerized to obtain a polyester second component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.49. Using these two components, a side-by-side type undrawn yarn was obtained by a conventionally known composite spinning method. This unstretched yarn was stretched to form a side-by-side latent crimpable conjugate fiber, which was bundled to obtain a 50 denier / 12 filament multifilament yarn. The side-by-side latently crimpable conjugate fiber had a crimp rate of 69.5% after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes. This multifilament yarn is twisted with a twist coefficient of K21000 and S / Z3000T / M, and then 80
Vacuum heat setting was performed under the conditions of 40 ° C for 40 minutes to obtain a twisted yarn.
【００１３】この加撚糸条を経糸及び緯糸に使用して、
経密度110本／吋，緯密度80本／吋のジョーゼットを製
織した。このジョーゼットをアンドン巻し、キャリア１
g/lを併用して、ロータリーワッシャーにて100℃で20分
間の条件でリラックス処理を行なった後、苛性ソーダ１
g/l及び界面活性剤１g/lを併用した溶液を用いて、株式
会社日阪製作所製のサーキュラー液流染色機で、湿熱80
℃，時間20分間の条件で精練を行ない、乾燥した。次い
で、市金工業株式会社製のテンターにて、経及び緯共に
張力をかけずに、乾熱180℃，20秒間の条件でヒートセ
ットを行なった。次いで、つりねり法によるアルカリ減
量処理を施して、このジョーゼットを23.5重量％減量し
た。Using this twisted yarn for warp and weft,
Georgette with warp density of 110 pieces / inch and weft density of 80 pieces / inch was woven. Roll this Georgette with Andon, Carrier 1
After using g / l together with a rotary washer for relaxation treatment at 100 ° C for 20 minutes, use caustic soda 1
Using a solution in which g / l and 1 g / l of a surfactant are used together, with a circular jet dyeing machine manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho Co., Ltd., wet heat 80
Scouring was carried out under the conditions of ℃ for 20 minutes and dried. Next, heat setting was performed using a tenter manufactured by Ichikin Kogyo Co., Ltd. under conditions of dry heat 180 ° C. and 20 seconds without applying tension to both warp and weft. Then, an alkali weight reduction treatment was performed by the twisting method to reduce the weight of this georgette by 23.5% by weight.
【００１４】この後、下記組成の分散染料液を使用し、
株式会社日阪製作所製のサーキュラー液流染色機を用い
て、湿熱130℃，時間30分間の条件で染色加工を施し
た。 記 Dianix Black RB-UP（三菱化成株式会社製分散染料） 15％o.w.f. Dianix Black F（三菱化成株式会社製分散染料） 5％o.w.f. サンソルトRZ-8（日華化学株式会社製均染剤） 0.5g/l 酢酸（48％） 0.2cc/l その後、ビスノールP-70（一方社油脂工業株式会社製の
一浴還元洗浄剤）５g/lを使用して、湿熱80℃，時間20
分の条件で還元洗浄を行なった後、乾燥した。引き続
き、ファミトンスーパー30（日華化学株式会社製、フッ
素系濃染剤）を使用して、PH7で温度60℃の溶液を調整
し、7.0％o.w.f.，浴比1：20，時間30分間の条件で湿熱
処理を行なった後、乾燥した。次いで、市金工業株式会
社製のテンターを用いて、乾熱170℃，時間20秒の条件
で仕上セットを行ない、黒色無地織物を得た。以上のよ
うにして得られた織物の色彩の深みを評価した。なお、
この評価は、マクベスカラーアイで測定したＬ*値で評
価した。Ｌ*値は、色の視感濃度を表わすものであり、
Ｌ*値の小さいものほど色彩に深みがあることを示して
いる。この結果、ファシトンスーパー30を使用して濃染
処理する前の織物のＬ*値は、11.1であり、濃染処理し
た後の織物のＬ*値は、9.0であった。Thereafter, a disperse dye solution having the following composition was used,
Using a circular jet dyeing machine manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho Co., Ltd., dyeing was performed under the conditions of a wet heat of 130 ° C and a time of 30 minutes. Note Dianix Black RB-UP (Disperse dye manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei Co., Ltd.) 15% owf Dianix Black F (Disperse dye manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei Co., Ltd.) 5% owf Sun Salt RZ-8 (leveling agent manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.5 g / l Acetic acid (48%) 0.2cc / l After that, using 5g / l of Bisnol P-70 (one-bath reducing cleaning agent manufactured by Yonesha Yushi Kogyo Co., Ltd.), moist heat 80 ° C, time 20
After reducing and washing under the condition of minutes, it was dried. Then, using Famiton Super 30 (Nippon Kagaku Co., Ltd., fluorine-based stain), adjust the solution at a temperature of 60 ° C with PH7, 7.0% owf, bath ratio 1:20, for 30 minutes. After heat-moisture treatment under the conditions, it was dried. Then, using a tenter manufactured by Ichikin Kogyo Co., Ltd., a finishing set was performed under conditions of dry heat of 170 ° C. and time of 20 seconds to obtain a black plain fabric. The color depth of the woven fabric obtained as described above was evaluated. In addition,
This evaluation was performed by the L * value measured by Macbeth Color Eye. The L * value represents the luminous density of a color,
The smaller the L * value, the deeper the color is. As a result, the L * value of the woven fabric before the deep dyeing treatment using Faciton Super 30 was 11.1 and the L * value of the woven fabric after the deep dyeing treatment was 9.0.
【００１５】比較例１ 実施例で使用したマルチフィラメント糸条に加撚処理を
施さない以外は、実施例と同様にして、黒色無地織物を
得た。この結果、ファシトンスーパー30を使用して濃染
処理する前の織物のＬ*値は、13.0であり、濃染処理し
た後の織物のＬ*値は、11.7であった。Comparative Example 1 A black plain fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example except that the multifilament yarn used in Example was not twisted. As a result, the L * value of the woven fabric before the deep dyeing treatment using Faciton Super 30 was 13.0, and the L * value of the woven fabric after the deep dyeing treatment was 11.7.
【００１６】比較例２ 実施例で使用したポリエステル系第一成分に代えて、極
限粘度［η］0.63のポリエステルを第一成分として使用
する以外は、実施例と同様にして、黒色無地織物を得
た。なお、ここで使用したポリエステル系潜在捲縮性複
合繊維は、沸水30分処理後の捲縮率が42％のものであっ
た。この結果、ファミトンスーパー30を使用して濃染処
理する前の織物のＬ*値は、12.9であり、濃染処理した
後の織物のＬ*値は、11.9であった。Comparative Example 2 A black plain fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example except that a polyester having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.63 was used as the first component instead of the polyester-based first component used in the Example. It was The polyester latently crimpable conjugate fiber used here had a crimping rate of 42% after treated with boiling water for 30 minutes. As a result, the L * value of the woven fabric before the deep dyeing treatment using Famiton Super 30 was 12.9, and the L * value of the woven fabric after the deep dyeing treatment was 11.9.
【００１７】[0017]
【作用及び発明の効果】本発明に係るポリエステル系織
編物の製造方法は、所定の捲縮率を持つポリエステル系
潜在捲縮性複合繊維で構成された糸条に、所定の加撚処
理を施した加撚糸条を用い、製織編した後捲縮発現と染
色とを行なうものである。従って、この加撚糸条に捲縮
を発現させる、加撚と捲縮との相乗作用によって、複合
繊維の表面には微細な凹凸が多数生じ、複合繊維が染色
された場合、入射光の乱反射が抑制され、その色彩に深
みがでるという効果を奏する。また、複合繊維の表面に
微細な凹凸が多数生じるため、繊維間隙が生じて糸条に
ふくらみがでて、風合が良好になるという格別顕著な効
果も奏する。In the method for producing a polyester-based woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention, a yarn composed of a polyester-based latently crimpable conjugate fiber having a predetermined crimp ratio is subjected to a predetermined twisting treatment. The above twisted yarn is used to perform crimp expression and dyeing after weaving and knitting. Therefore, due to the synergistic effect of twisting and crimping, which causes crimps in the twisted yarn, many fine irregularities are generated on the surface of the conjugate fiber, and when the conjugate fiber is dyed, irregular reflection of incident light is caused. The effect is suppressed and the color is deepened. In addition, since many fine irregularities are formed on the surface of the composite fiber, fiber gaps are generated, the yarn is bulged, and the feeling is improved, which is also a particularly remarkable effect.
───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (51)Int.Cl.5 識別記号 庁内整理番号 ＦＩ 技術表示箇所 Ｄ０６Ｃ 7/00 Ｚ Ｄ０６Ｐ 7/00 9160−4Ｈ ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. 5 Identification number Office reference number FI Technical display location D06C 7/00 Z D06P 7/00 9160-4H
Claims (1)
るポリエステル系潜在捲縮性複合繊維で構成された糸条
に、下記式に示す撚係数Ｋが7500〜25000の範囲で加撚
し、引き続き熱セットを施して加撚糸条を得、該加撚糸
条を用いて織編物を得た後、該織編物に熱処理を施し
て、該ポリエステル系潜在捲縮性複合繊維に捲縮を発現
させると共に、該織編物に染色加工を施すことを特徴と
するポリエステル系織編物の製造方法。 記 Ｔ＝Ｋ×［１／（Ｄ）1/2］（式中、Ｔは１ｍ当たりの
撚数を示し、Ｄは糸条のデニール数を示す。）1. A yarn composed of a polyester latently crimpable conjugate fiber having a crimping rate of 50% or more after treated with boiling water for 30 minutes, and a twisting coefficient K shown in the following formula in a range of 7500 to 25000. After twisting and subsequent heat setting, a twisted yarn is obtained, a woven or knitted product is obtained using the twisted yarn, and the woven or knitted product is heat-treated to be wound on the polyester latent crimpable conjugate fiber. A method for producing a polyester-based woven or knitted material, which comprises causing shrinkage and dyeing the woven or knitted material. Note T = K × [1 / (D) 1/2 ] (In the formula, T represents the number of twists per 1 m, and D represents the number of denier of the yarn.)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP04117924A JP3119389B2 (en) | 1992-04-10 | 1992-04-10 | Method for producing polyester woven or knitted fabric |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP04117924A JP3119389B2 (en) | 1992-04-10 | 1992-04-10 | Method for producing polyester woven or knitted fabric |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPH05295670A true JPH05295670A (en) | 1993-11-09 |
| JP3119389B2 JP3119389B2 (en) | 2000-12-18 |
Family
ID=14723566
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP04117924A Expired - Fee Related JP3119389B2 (en) | 1992-04-10 | 1992-04-10 | Method for producing polyester woven or knitted fabric |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JP3119389B2 (en) |
Cited By (9)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP1059372A2 (en) | 1999-06-08 | 2000-12-13 | Toray Industries, Inc. | Soft strech yarns and their method of production |
| KR20010028325A (en) * | 1999-09-20 | 2001-04-06 | 김윤 | The manufacturing of elastic fabric |
| JP2001123336A (en) * | 1999-10-25 | 2001-05-08 | Toray Ind Inc | Latent crimp-revealing polyester fiber and method for producing the fiber |
| US6276121B1 (en) | 1997-03-31 | 2001-08-21 | Toray Industries, Inc. | Crimped yarn, textile fabric, and process for preparing the same |
| WO2006062495A1 (en) * | 2004-12-07 | 2006-06-15 | Invista Technologies S.A.R.L. | Warp-stretch woven fabrics comprising polyester bicomponent filaments |
| JP2008150766A (en) * | 2006-12-04 | 2008-07-03 | Invista Technologies Sarl | Stretch woven fabrics including polyester bicomponent filaments |
| JP2013204197A (en) * | 2012-03-29 | 2013-10-07 | Unitika Trading Co Ltd | Polyester-latent crimp multifilament yarn and manufacturing method thereof |
| CN106555252A (en) * | 2015-09-24 | 2017-04-05 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | A kind of Bicomponent side-by-side composite fibre and preparation method thereof |
| WO2018221332A1 (en) * | 2017-05-30 | 2018-12-06 | 帝人フロンティア株式会社 | Antibacterial electric-charge generation yarn, method for manufacturing antibacterial electric-charge generation yarn, and antibacterial cloth |
-
1992
- 1992-04-10 JP JP04117924A patent/JP3119389B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Cited By (12)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US6276121B1 (en) | 1997-03-31 | 2001-08-21 | Toray Industries, Inc. | Crimped yarn, textile fabric, and process for preparing the same |
| EP1059372A2 (en) | 1999-06-08 | 2000-12-13 | Toray Industries, Inc. | Soft strech yarns and their method of production |
| US6803000B2 (en) * | 1999-06-08 | 2004-10-12 | Toray Industries, Inc. | Process of making yarn from two types of polyester |
| KR20010028325A (en) * | 1999-09-20 | 2001-04-06 | 김윤 | The manufacturing of elastic fabric |
| JP2001123336A (en) * | 1999-10-25 | 2001-05-08 | Toray Ind Inc | Latent crimp-revealing polyester fiber and method for producing the fiber |
| WO2006062495A1 (en) * | 2004-12-07 | 2006-06-15 | Invista Technologies S.A.R.L. | Warp-stretch woven fabrics comprising polyester bicomponent filaments |
| JP2008150766A (en) * | 2006-12-04 | 2008-07-03 | Invista Technologies Sarl | Stretch woven fabrics including polyester bicomponent filaments |
| JP2013204197A (en) * | 2012-03-29 | 2013-10-07 | Unitika Trading Co Ltd | Polyester-latent crimp multifilament yarn and manufacturing method thereof |
| CN106555252A (en) * | 2015-09-24 | 2017-04-05 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | A kind of Bicomponent side-by-side composite fibre and preparation method thereof |
| WO2018221332A1 (en) * | 2017-05-30 | 2018-12-06 | 帝人フロンティア株式会社 | Antibacterial electric-charge generation yarn, method for manufacturing antibacterial electric-charge generation yarn, and antibacterial cloth |
| JPWO2018221332A1 (en) * | 2017-05-30 | 2020-04-02 | 帝人フロンティア株式会社 | Anti-bacterial charge generating yarn, method for producing anti-bacterial charge generating yarn, and antibacterial fabric |
| US11421350B2 (en) | 2017-05-30 | 2022-08-23 | Teijin Frontier Co., Ltd. | Antibacterial electric charge generation yarn, method for manufacturing antibacterial electric charge generation yarn, and antibacterial cloth |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JP3119389B2 (en) | 2000-12-18 |
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