JP2009121003A - Highly shrinkable and splittable false-twist polyester yarn and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a highly shrinkable and splittable false-twist polyester yarn capable of making woven/knitted fabrics excellent in puffiness, soft touch and dense feeling and therefore developable for clothing use. <P>SOLUTION: The highly shrinkable and splittable false-twist polyester yarn is characterized by simultaneously meeting the properties (a) to (f): (a) single filament fineness (dtex) after split≤0.3; (b) 40≤boiling water shrinkage [SHW] (%); (c) dry heat shrinkage [SHD] at 160°C after subjected to boiling water shrinkage≤2; (d) 10≤interlacing degree [CF value] per m; (e) 25≤elongation at break (%)≤60; and (f) 5≤crimping percentage [CR] (%)≤25. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2009,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention provides a woven fabric or knitted fabric (hereinafter sometimes collectively referred to as a woven or knitted fabric) that is excellent in swelling, softness, denseness, and high color developability and can be developed for clothing. The present invention relates to a highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn, a method for producing the same, and a woven or knitted fabric using the highly shrinkable splittable false twisted yarn.

  Conventionally, as a splittable composite yarn having a high shrinkage property, a splittable composite yarn of polyester and nylon is generally known. For example, it has been proposed to fabricate a fabric using a high-shrinkage polyester multifilament and nylon multifilament splittable composite yarn into a high-density fabric having a soft touch by performing a spreading treatment in a high-pressure liquid ( However, this method has a problem that a yarn length difference is generated between the polyester yarn and the nylon yarn, and the fabric is wiped. Moreover, since it is necessary to dye polyester and nylon in the same color at the time of dyeing, there is also a problem that a dark color cannot be obtained.

  In addition, a technique for obtaining a soft high-density fabric using sea-island type composite fibers of polytrimethylene terephthalate has been proposed (for example, see Patent Document 2). There was a problem in weaving properties such as fluff and yarn breakage because it had to be made dense from the raw machine. Further, there is a problem that delayed shrinkage, which is a problem peculiar to polytrimethylene terephthalate, occurs on the living machine and shrinkage unevenness occurs.

  Furthermore, when a highly oriented undrawn yarn is drawn and twisted from room temperature to the glass transition temperature, the polyester-based latent resin having a boiling water shrinkage of 50% or more is forcibly twisted between the twister and the supply roller. A technique for obtaining a crimped yarn has been proposed (see, for example, Patent Document 3). However, with this technology, it is impossible to suppress shrinkage variation due to twisted spots, and crimping is latent, so that there is a crimp expression when it is made into a fabric, and there is also a variation in the divided state. In some cases, the surface quality was not applicable. In addition, filaments that are not crimped, such as latently crimped yarns and raw yarns, have a form in which the filaments are arranged in a straight line after shrinking, which tends to cause choke marks and poor friction fastness. there were.

Furthermore, the reason why the conventional high-shrinkage false twist yarn has not been developed for clothing until now is one of the reasons that the high-shrinkage false twist yarn is weak in thermal characteristics. That is, when heat is applied by sizing or twisted steam set in the woven fabric preparation process, there is a problem that the high shrinkage property applied to the fabric is inhibited. Therefore, in order to use the high shrinkage false twisted yarn for the warp of the woven fabric, sizing or twisted steam set is not necessary. However, other means for suppressing generated fluff and tarmi (sizing and medium strength twisting) ) Has not been able to be applied to clothing fabrics until now.
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 6-341033 JP 2006-57219 A JP-A-2-210034

  The present invention solves various problems that conventional high-shrinkage yarns could not be used alone for woven or knitted fabrics for clothing, especially woven fabrics for clothing, and has excellent bulge and softness, and excellent surface quality and friction characteristics. It is intended to provide a highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twist yarn for forming a fabric, a method for producing the same, and a woven or knitted fabric.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention employs the following configuration. That is,
(1) A highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn characterized by simultaneously satisfying the following properties (a) to (f):
(A) Single fiber fineness after division (dtex) ≦ 0.3
(B) 40 ≦ Boiling water shrinkage [SHW] (%)
(C) Dry heat shrinkage after boiling water shrinkage at 160 ° C. [SHD] (%) ≦ 2
(D) Degree of confounding per 10 m [CF value]
(E) 25 ≦ Elongation (%) ≦ 60
(F) 5 ≦ crimp expression [CR] (%) ≦ 25
(2) A woven or knitted fabric characterized by using the highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn according to (1).

  (3) The high-shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn described in (1) above is used as the warp or weft, and the stretch ratio in the yarn direction using the highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn is 5% or more. A fabric characterized by that.

  (4) The method for producing a highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn according to (1), wherein the splittable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn is at a temperature of 70 ° C. or less and the false twist number T is A method for producing a highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn, characterized in that stretch false twist is applied at 1500 (T / m) or more, and entanglement with a degree of entanglement [CF value] per meter of 10 or more is imparted.

  The present invention solves various problems that conventional high-shrinkage yarns could not be used alone for woven and knitted fabrics for clothing, especially woven fabrics for clothing, and has excellent bulge feeling, soft feeling and rebound feeling, and surface quality and friction. A fabric having excellent characteristics can be provided.

  The fiber obtained by the present invention is suitably used for women's clothing such as blouses, suits, pants, dresses, and coats, and sports clothing such as jerseys, athletic wear, and ski wear.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

  The highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention can sufficiently exhibit shrinkage characteristics during the dyeing process and exhibits the following boiling water shrinkage.

  In the present invention, it is important that the boiling water shrinkage rate (SHW) is 40 ≦ SHW (%) in order to give a dense feeling to the fabric. This is because when SHW (%) <40, the shrinkage is insufficient, and it is difficult to obtain a dense fabric. Further, SHW (%) ≦ 65 is preferable. It is difficult with the current technology to stably obtain SHW (%)> 65, and by setting SHW (%) ≦ 65, it is possible to suppress the occurrence of shrinkage spots on the fabric due to excessive shrinkage. be able to. More preferably, 45 ≦ SHW (%) ≦ 60. The boiling water shrinkage (SHW) refers to a value measured by the measurement method described in item A in the column of Examples described later.

  Furthermore, when the single fiber fineness (dtex) after division is 0.3 or less, it is possible to obtain a soft feeling when a woven or knitted fabric is formed. A more preferable range is 0.2 or less. At this time, if the single fiber fineness after splitting (dtex)> 1, the woven or knitted fabric cannot be given a soft feeling. On the other hand, if it is thinner than 0.001, it is too thin and the color developability deteriorates. Therefore, it is preferably 0.001 or more.

  Further, in order to obtain a fabric having a high level of soft feeling, it is important to prevent the fabric from being hardened by removing the fabric restraint with a dry heat intermediate set after scouring the fabric. For that purpose, it is important that the dry heat shrinkage ratio (SHD) at 160 ° C. of dry heat after boiling water shrinkage of the highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn is SHD (%) ≦ 2. That is, it is important that the yarn hardly shrinks when subjected to a hot dry heat treatment after the hot water shrinkage. Moreover, it is preferably −10 ≦ SHD (%), and by setting this range, the dry heat setting property can be kept good. In consideration of dimensional stability, more preferably, −6 ≦ SHD (%) ≦ 2. In addition, the dry heat shrinkage rate (SHD) at 160 ° C. dry heat after boiling water shrinkage refers to a value measured by the measurement method described in the item B in the column of Examples described later.

  In addition, as a result of diligent research to solve the problem of fluff generation and shrinkage variation, which has been a hindrance to the development of high-shrinkage yarns in the past, and the problem of passing through the textile process, the present inventors have found that the yarn has a certain degree of It has been found that it is effective to give a crimp of 1 and a converged yarn form.

  That is, the crimp expression rate CR (%) which is an index of crimp is 5 ≦ CR (%) ≦ 25, the entanglement CF value per meter which is an entanglement index is 10 ≦ CF value, and 25 ≦ elongation ( %) ≦ 60 is important.

  In order to prevent the occurrence of shrinkage variation, it is important to disperse the yarn spots by co-stretching the highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY) to absorb the yarn spots by crimping. When 5 ≦ CR (%) ≦ 25, the crimps disperse the yarn spots, and at the same time, the crimps remain even after the division, so that voids can be provided between the single filaments, thereby improving the friction resistance. It can be done.

  When CR (%) <5, shrinkage variation occurs, and further, after the yarn is shrunk and divided, the filaments are arranged in a straight line and the fastness to friction is also deteriorated. Further, if CR (%)> 25, the crimp is too strong and it becomes difficult to make the yarn converge. Furthermore, in consideration of mass productivity, it is necessary to twist and steam set for use in the warp of a woven fabric, and the high shrinkage characteristics are hindered. From these things, it is more preferable that it is 7 <= CR (%) <= 25, since a swelling feeling and stretch property can be provided to a fabric. In addition, a crimp expression rate (CR) says the value measured by the measuring method described in E term of the column of the Example mentioned later.

  In addition, the yarn having a CF value of 10 ≦ CF value and 25 ≦ elongation (%) ≦ 60, which is an index of the degree of entanglement, is converged so that almost no fluff is generated while there is crimp. It becomes possible. By converging the yarn, it is possible to develop the use of a woven warp with a low-temperature dry heat set after imparting no twist or a low twist of 1000 T / m or less. Furthermore, the resistance at the time of fabric shrinkage is relaxed, and the high shrinkage can be further enhanced.

  Here, if the CF value <10 or the elongation (%) <25, the yarn is in an open state, and fluff and tarmi are liable to occur, so that yarn breakage in twisted yarn and woven fabric increases. Moreover, in order to use it for the warp of a textile fabric, it is necessary to twist and set in a steam, and the high shrinkage property is hindered. Further, if the elongation (%)> 60, thread sink marks occur during weaving, which causes a problem in surface quality.

  The CF value is preferably CF value ≦ 80. If the CF value is> 80, entanglement unevenness becomes noticeable in the fabric and should be avoided if possible.

  The elongation refers to the value measured by the measurement method described in the item D in the example column described later, and the entanglement degree per 1 m (CF value) is described in the item C in the example column described later. The value measured by the measuring method.

  If the total shrinkage of the highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention is in the range of 20 to 350 dtex at the yarn stage before splitting, it is preferable because it can give a dense feeling and soft feeling suitable for clothing. More preferably, the total fineness is 30 to 200 dtex.

  The highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twist yarn of the present invention can be obtained from a multifilament yarn of splittable composite fibers. The splittable type composite fiber is, for example, a splittable type composite fiber in which one component is divided into a plurality of other components, for example, a sea island type composite fiber using an easily alkali-soluble polymer as a sea component and polyester as an island component. Can be used.

  Next, the manufacturing method of the highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twist yarn of the present invention will be described.

  The method for producing a highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention is a splittable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY) at a temperature of 70 ° C. or lower and a false twist number T of 1500 (T / m) or higher. It is characterized in that it is stretched false twisted and entangled.

  As the splittable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn, a highly oriented undrawn yarn using an easily alkali-soluble polymer as a sea component and polyester as an island component can be applied.

  As the polyester of the island component, the main glycol component is terephthalic acid as a main component and at least one selected from ethylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, cyclohexane-1,4-dimethanol, pentamethylene glycol, and hexamethylene glycol. The third component of 40% mol or less may be copolymerized. Preferred copolymerization components include dibasic acids such as adipic acid, sebacic acid, isophthalic acid, diphenyldicarboxylic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, oxyacids such as oxybenzoic acid, and diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol glycols, Examples include 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 2,2bis {4- <2-hydroxyethoxy> phenyl} propane. A polyester obtained by copolymerizing one or two or more of these copolymer components is preferably used.

  Further, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, silica or alumina fine particles as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivatives, coloring pigments and the like as antioxidants can be added as necessary.

  The sea component is preferably made of a polyester having a high alkali solubility and copolymerized with isophthalic acid, and preferably made of a polyester copolymerized with sodium sulfoisophthalic acid.

  Further, the composite ratio (weight ratio) of the sea component / island component of the highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention is 10/90 to 50/50 from the viewpoint of the stability of the composite form, yarn forming property, and productivity. preferable. When the composite ratio of the sea component is less than 10%, a composite abnormality occurs, resulting in poor splitting, or even if the composite form is normal, poor splitting due to poor dissolution of the sea component results in sufficient softness. Can't get. On the contrary, when the composite ratio of the sea component exceeds 50%, productivity is lowered, which is not preferable. A more preferable sea component / island component ratio is 15/85 to 40/60.

  Further, the cross-sectional shape of the highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention may be an irregular cross-section such as flat, hollow, triangular, etc. in addition to a round cross-section. Further, the fiber surface may be completely covered with the sea component, or the island component may be partially exposed. Furthermore, the cross-sectional shape of the island component after the sea component is removed may be a deformed cross section such as a flat shape or a triangular shape in addition to the round cross section.

  The highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY) to be used preferably has an elongation of 100% or more and 300% or less. That it is 100% or more is a state in which the stretched crystallization of the highly oriented undrawn yarn has not progressed. By using a highly oriented undrawn yarn having an elongation of 100% or more in the production method of the present invention, the SHW (%) of the false twisted yarn can be made 40% or more. In addition, the elongation of 300% or less means that the orientation of the non-crystalline part has progressed and there are nuclei that can become crystal parts. If there are nuclei that can become crystal parts, the crystal parts grow by high-temperature dry heat at 160 ° C., and spontaneous elongation occurs. By using the highly oriented undrawn yarn having an elongation of 300% or less in the production method of the present invention, the SHD (%) of the false twisted yarn can be made 2% or less.

  In the method of false twisting while stretching, a commonly used stretching false twisting machine can be used sufficiently. In the present invention, the temperature of the fiber can be drawn and twisted at a glass transition temperature (Tg) of 70 ° C. or less, thereby preventing thermal crystallization of the yarn and controlling SHW (%) to 40% or more. It becomes possible to do. In general, when the false twisting temperature is low, the processing tension is higher than that of a normal hot stretch false twist, the necking phenomenon is likely to occur between single fibers, and fluff and sagging are likely to occur. As a result of intensive studies on this problem, the present inventors have found that it is effective to lower the false twist draw ratio and set the processed yarn elongation to be 25% or more. The appropriate draw ratio varies depending on the elongation of the POY and the like, but it is important that the processed yarn elongation is 25% or more.

  As a result, the processing tension is lowered and the yarn is converged, so that there is no fuzz and no tarmi, and the fabric can be developed into warp yarns.

  Moreover, it is preferable to perform false twisting at a temperature 20 ° C. or more lower than Tg because it is possible to completely prevent thermal crystallization of the yarn and to obtain higher shrinkage characteristics.

  In order to prevent frequent yarn breakage, it is preferable to perform false twisting at 20 ° C. or higher even at room temperature.

  The glass transition temperature here is 0 ° C. for a sample heated to 260 ° C. at a rate of 10 ° C./min using a DSC2010 Differential Scanning Calibrator manufactured by TA Instruments as a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC). The sample which was rapidly cooled in a test tube cooled to a non-crystalline state was further heated at a heating rate of 10 ° C./min, and the midpoint glass transition temperature was measured according to JIS K7121.

  FIG. 1 is a process schematic diagram for illustrating the production process of a highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twist yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 1, a supply yarn 1 is stably supplied to a heating medium 3 using a feed roller 2. At this time, the heating medium 3 may be used for heating at 70 ° C. or lower, or false twisting may be performed at room temperature. As the heating medium 3, a known medium may be appropriately used for false twisting, and a specific example of the contact heating medium is a hot plate heated by electric heating or a circulating heating medium. Moreover, you may use the slit heater which is a non-contact-type heating medium.

  The running yarn heated while being twisted is then cooled by the cooling medium 4 and passes through a false twist rotor 5 for giving false twist. The false twisting rotor 5 may be a spinner pin that provides a direct twisting yarn, or may be a friction disk or a belt nip that indirectly provides a twisting yarn.

  Moreover, in order to obtain a crimp expression rate of 5% or more, it is important to set the false twist number T to 1,500 (T / m) or more. If T <1,500, the crimp cannot be imparted to the yarn.

  In order to sufficiently impart the crimp of the yarn, T ≧ 2000 is preferable, and K ≦ 4000 is more preferable. Further, if T> 4000, yarn breakage during false twisting is likely to occur, which is not preferable.

  In addition, if the yarn processing speed is fast, the productivity becomes high, which is preferable. However, in consideration of the stable false twist property, 100 to 700 (m / min) is preferable.

  The traveling yarn is untwisted after passing through the false twisting rotor 5 and is entangled or mixed using a nozzle 7 installed between the stretching roller 6 and the relaxing roller 8. By providing the entanglement, the yarn can be converged. As the nozzle 7, an interlace nozzle, a compressed air nozzle typified by a so-called “Taslan” nozzle, or the like can be used without particular limitation, but an interlace nozzle is preferable for obtaining a converged yarn form.

  In addition, the confounding pressure is set to 0.15 (MPa) or more, whereby the CF value can be set to 10 or more. Further, if it exceeds 0.7 (MPa) or more, fabric entanglement unevenness will be conspicuous, and therefore it is preferably 0.7 (MPa) or less.

  In addition, regarding the entanglement overfeed, the CF value can be controlled to 10 or more by setting it to 0.5% or more. Further, if it exceeds 5%, yarn blur is likely to occur in front of the entangled nozzle, and therefore it is preferably 5% or less.

  Finally, it is wound into a package I9.

Moreover, it is preferable to use a high-shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention that has been twisted at a twisting coefficient of 10,000 or less in order to obtain a sufficient swell feeling in the fabric. However,
Twist factor K = T × (fineness) ^1/2
T: Number of twists per meter (turns / m)
Fineness: dtex (decitex) x 0.9
It is.

  If the twist coefficient is 10,000 or less, the false twisted yarn of the present invention can be used for warp of a woven fabric in a low-temperature dry heat set. The low temperature dry heat set here is a temperature range of 40 to 55 ° C. It is preferable to carry out heat setting for 12 hours or more in this temperature range, since it is possible to reliably prevent the innermost layer of the twisted yarn package.

  When the highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention is made into a woven fabric, there is no restriction on the structure and density, but a 1/3 twill or satin structure with many floats is preferable. Further, when the highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention is made into a knitted fabric, there is no restriction on the structure or density, but a tentacle or smooth structure with less knitting constraint is preferred.

  Furthermore, when dyeing and finishing a woven or knitted fabric using the highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention, there is no restriction on the processing method and processing apparatus, but shrinkage due to rapid shrinkage. In order to avoid generation of wrinkles, it is preferable to carry out a softening process that can be relaxed and refined. When the softener device has two baths, the first stage temperature is preferably set to 60 to 75 ° C., and the second stage temperature is set to 90 to 98 ° C., which is more preferable.

  Moreover, since there exists a characteristic which expands spontaneously by high-temperature dry heat at the time of an intermediate set, the 5-15% elongation setting slightly higher than a normal textile is preferable.

  The sea component removal treatment can be preferably performed in an alkaline solution of 10 to 100 g / L, more preferably 20 to 80 g / L. What is necessary is just to process at the temperature of 60-120 degreeC normally using a sodium hydroxide solution as an alkaline solution.

  By using the high-shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention to make a woven or knitted fabric, various problems that conventional high-shrinkage yarns could not be used alone for woven and knitted fabrics for clothing, especially woven fabrics for clothing, were solved. In addition, it is possible to form a fabric that is excellent in swelling, softness, rebound, and excellent in surface quality and friction characteristics.

  In addition, when the highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twist yarn of the present invention is used for warp or weft, stretchability can be imparted to the woven fabric by a crimp-up effect by crimping and stretching after dry heat. If the stretch ratio in the direction used is 5% or more, a comfortable stretch property can be imparted to the fabric while having a high density.

  The fiber obtained by the present invention is suitably used for women's clothing such as blouses, suits, pants, dresses, and coats, and sports clothing such as jerseys, athletic wear, and ski wear.

  Hereinafter, the highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twist yarn of the present invention and the production method thereof will be described in more detail with reference to examples. In addition, the physical property in an Example is calculated | required with the following method.

(A) Boiling water shrinkage [SHW]
The thread is wound 10 times under a tension of 0.8 mg / dtex on a measuring machine with a circumference of 0.8 m, and left for 10 minutes. After that, the length (L) is measured under a load of 0.09 cN / dtex. To do. Then, this casserole is wrapped with gauze, hydrothermally treated at 98 ° C. for 20 minutes under no load, suspended on a rod of 2 cm or less and left for about 12 hours, and then the casserole length (L1 under a load of 0.09 cN / dtex). ) Was measured and calculated by the following formula, this operation was repeated 5 times, and the average value was obtained.
Boiling water shrinkage [SHW] (%) = {(L−L1) / L} × 100
(B) Dry heat shrinkage after boiling water shrinkage [SHD]
Using the cassette after the boiling water shrinkage measurement of the above item A, it is treated for 15 minutes in a load-free state at a dry heat of 160 ° C., and the sag length (L2) under a load of 0.09 cN / dtex is measured. This operation was repeated 5 times, and the average value was obtained.
Dry heat shrinkage ratio after shrinking with boiling water [SHD] (%) = {(L1-L2) / L} × 100
(C) Single fiber fineness after splitting The casserole treated with boiling water and dry-heated by the above method is wrapped with gauze, and treated with a 3% aqueous sodium hydroxide solution at 98 ° C. under no load until the sea components are completely dissolved. Then, after fully drying, it cut into 10 cm length with the load of 0.1 g / dtex, and measured the single fiber fineness by measuring the weight of a single fiber.

(D) Entanglement degree per meter [CF value]
The degree of entanglement is the number of entangled portions per meter under a tension of 0.1 g / 0.9 dtex (0.1 g / d), and a tension of 0.02 g / 0.9 dtex (0.02 g / d) is applied to the yarn. The pin is inserted into the unentangled portion below, and the pin is moved up and down in the longitudinal direction of the yarn with a tension of 0.1 g / 0.9 dtex (0.1 g / d) over 1 m of the yarn. The distance traveled as the entanglement part is recorded, and the part where the pin stops is defined as the entanglement part. This operation is repeated 5 times, and the degree of entanglement per meter is calculated from the average value (n = 5) of the distance of the unentangled part.

(E) Elongation It measured based on JIS-L-1013.

(F) Crimp expression rate [CR]
The thread is wound 10 times on a measuring machine having a circumference of 0.8 m under a tension of 90 mg / dtex, and then hanged on a rod of 2 cm or less and left for about 24 hours. This casserole is wrapped in gauze, hydrothermally treated at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes under no tension, and then suspended on a rod of 2 cm or less and left for about 12 hours. After leaving the cassette, one end of the cassette is hooked and the other end is subjected to initial load and measurement load. Initial load (g) at this time = 1.8 mg / dtex, measurement load (g) = 90 mg / dtex, water temperature = 20 ± 2 ° C. Measure the length of the inside of the left casket and let it be L. Further, the test piece is left for 2 minutes under the condition of only the initial load excluding the measurement load, and the length of the inside of the left case is measured to be L1. The expression rate of crimp under load was obtained by the following formula, this operation was repeated 5 times, and the average value was obtained.
Crimp expression [CR] (%) = {(L−L1) / L} × 100
(G) Friction fastness According to the method specified in JIS L 0849 (Test method for dyeing fastness to friction), it was tested when dry and wet. In each case, this operation was repeated 5 times, and the average value was obtained.

  A Gakushin shape was used for the friction tester, and a gray scale for contamination was used for the class judgment.

(H) Texture evaluation, surface quality evaluation The texture evaluation of the feeling of denseness, swelling, and softness, and the uniformity of the surface quality were evaluated by five skilled workers using a four-step evaluation method.

○○: Excellent ○: Good △: Acceptable ×: Impossible

(I) Stretch rate Measured by the stretch rate A method (constant speed stretch method) of JIS L-1096.

Examples 1-6
As the supply yarn, 2.3% by weight of titanium oxide is contained in the island component, and 3 mol% of isophthalic acid is copolymerized in the sea component. The sea-island composite ratio is island: sea = 67: 33, the number of islands is 70 islands, fineness Using a highly oriented unstretched polyethylene terephthalate with a filament number of 130 dtex, a filament count of 36 filaments, and an elongation of 155%, followed by false twisting using a friction pin false twisting machine (Aiki Seisakusho TH312MKII) according to the method described in Table 1. The interlace entanglement process (entanglement nozzle: QCII manufactured by Toray Precision Co., Ltd.) was performed. In Examples 1 to 4, and 6, friction false twisting using a urethane disk was performed, and in Example 5, pin false twisting was performed using a pin having a diameter of 2 mm.

  In Example 2, a contact type dowsum heater having a heater length of 1.5 m was used.

  Next, the false twisted yarn thus obtained was subjected to additional twisting with a twisting coefficient (K) = 5000 in the S direction using a double twister twisting machine manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. A 24 hour dry heat twist set was carried out. The obtained twisted yarn was used as a warp, and a non-twisted yarn was used as a weft. A warp density: 140 / 2.54 cm, a weft density: 110 / 2.54 cm, and a plain woven fabric was prepared. Next, the obtained woven fabric was subjected to softer relaxation scouring treatment (first stage 60 ° C., second stage 98 ° C.) according to a conventional method, followed by drying with a spread dryer and intermediate setting. The intermediate setting conditions were a temperature of 180 ° C., a work cloth speed of 2 m / min, and a tentering ratio of 9.5%. Then, it processed for 60 minutes in 80 degreeC warm water with a sodium hydroxide 30 (g / l) density | concentration, and eluted the sea component. Then, after dyeing at 135 ° C. with a commercially available black dye, reduction cleaning (80 ° C., 20 minutes) was performed according to a conventional method, followed by washing with water and drying. Finally, a finishing set was performed at 180 ° C.

  The finished woven fabric had a high finished density, a texture excellent in denseness, swelling and softness, and had stretch properties. The surface quality and friction fastness were also good results. The results are shown in Table 1.

Example 7
A yarn was prototyped by the same method as in Example 1 except that the number of islands was 15 as the supply yarn, and the fabric was evaluated.

  The finished density of the resulting woven fabric was high, and it had a fine texture, bulge, softness and resilience, and had stretch properties. The surface quality and friction fastness were also good results. The results are shown in Table 1.

Example 8
As a supply yarn, the island component contains 2.0% by weight of titanium oxide and the sea component is polylactic acid. The sea-island composite ratio is island: sea = 67: 33, the number of islands is 70, the fineness is 140 dtex, the number of filaments A yarn was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a 9-filament, 180% stretched polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn was used, and the fabric was evaluated.

  The finished density of the resulting woven fabric was high, and it had a fine texture, bulge, softness and resilience, and had stretch properties. The surface quality and friction fastness were also good results. The results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 1
In the same manner as in Example 1, a false twisted yarn was prototyped under the conditions described in Table 1, and the fabric was evaluated. However, due to the low CF value, the yarn unwinding property was poor, and weaving was performed by fluff. At that time, thread breakage stops frequently, and the surface quality of the obtained fabric was also poor.

Comparative Example 2
In the same manner as in Example 2, a false twisted yarn was prototyped under the conditions described in Table 1, and the fabric was evaluated. The resulting woven fabric was poor in denseness due to a low boiling water shrinkage rate, and lacked a feeling of swelling.

Comparative Example 3
In the same manner as in Example 5, a false twisted yarn was prototyped under the conditions described in Table 1, and the fabric was evaluated. Although the obtained woven fabric had a feeling of compactness, it had a low crimp expression rate and had almost no crimp, so that it was vulnerable to friction and a chalk mark was generated as soon as the surface was rubbed. The fastness to friction was also unacceptable.

Comparative Example 4
In the same manner as in Example 1, false twisted yarns were prototyped under the conditions shown in Table 1 and woven fabrics were evaluated. However, yarn breakage due to fluff frequently occurred due to low processing yarn elongation. When weaving, the yarn breakage stops frequently and the surface quality of the resulting fabric was poor.

Comparative Example 5
In the same manner as in Example 1, a false twisted yarn was prototyped under the conditions described in Table 1, and the fabric was evaluated. The resulting woven fabric had a feeling of denseness, but due to the high processed yarn elongation, twisted pirn sinks and weft looms caused by weaving looms occurred frequently, and there was a problem in surface quality.

  The high-yield splittable polyester false twist yarn of the present invention is particularly suitable for women's clothing and sports clothing, and is useful as a raw yarn for blouses, suits, pants, dresses, coats, jerseys, athletic wear, and ski wear.

FIG. 1 is a process schematic diagram for illustrating the production process of a highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twist yarn of the present invention.

Explanation of symbols

1: Supply yarn 2: Feed roller 3: Heating medium 4: Cooling medium 5: False twisting rotor 6: Stretching roller 7: Nozzle 8: Relaxing roller 9: Package

Claims (4)

A highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twist yarn characterized by simultaneously satisfying the following properties (a) to (f):
(A) Single fiber fineness after division (dtex) ≦ 0.3
(B) 40 ≦ Boiling water shrinkage [SHW] (%)
(C) Dry heat shrinkage after boiling water shrinkage at 160 ° C. [SHD] (%) ≦ 2
(D) Degree of confounding per 10 m [CF value]
(E) 25 ≦ Elongation (%) ≦ 60
(F) 5 ≦ crimp expression [CR] (%) ≦ 25   A woven or knitted fabric comprising the highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twist yarn according to claim 1.   The high-shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn according to claim 1 is used as a warp or weft, and the stretch ratio in the yarn direction using the highly shrinkable splittable polyester false twisted yarn is 5% or more, Woven fabric.   It is a manufacturing method of the highly shrinkable splittable type | mold polyester false twist yarn of Claim 1, Comprising: This splittable type polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn is the temperature of 70 degrees C or less, and the false twist number T is 1500 (T / m) Above, a stretch false twist is applied, and the entanglement degree per 1 m [CF value] is given 10 or more.

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