JPH1193033A - Woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To prepare a woven fabric excellent in a feeling having softness, and appropriate tight-stretchability and stiffness without hard and paper-like feelings, by weaving the fabric with a virtually untwisted poly(trimethylene terephthalate) multifilament yarn as the warp at a specific condition. SOLUTION: The purpose of this invention is achieved by weaving a fabric with a virtually untwisted poly(trimethylene terephthalate) multifilament yarn as the warp, which has a cover-factor of the warp of 500-1350 and a crimping percentage of the warp of 1.3-4.0%. It is possible to develop softness of the fabric by adjusting the difference between densities of the warp and the weft in designing the fabric and those in finishing the final product so as to have about 5-20%.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a fabric using polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn for warp.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is known as a fiber having a softer hand than a polyamide fiber due to a low Young's modulus. However, in the case of a knitted fabric, the soft hand of the fiber is exhibited. However, in the case of a woven fabric, there is a drawback that the soft hand of the fiber is not exhibited and the hand becomes hard and paper-like.

[0003] Such a defect is not generally caused by a polyamide fiber, and is a defect peculiar to a polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn made of a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a high-quality woven fabric of polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn having an excellent texture.

[0005]

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventor has found that a fabric design condition, a density change of a fabric on a loom, a shrinkage behavior at the time of heat treatment, and a disadvantage that the fabric structure and fabric texture become hard. As a result of careful and detailed examination of the relationship with the defects that result in the use of polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn, the inventors found that such defects were caused by the low Young's modulus and high elastic recovery of the polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn. .

More specifically, due to the low Young's modulus of the polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn, strain is accumulated in the warp due to the tension in the sizing step and weaving, and when it is woven as it is, it has a high elastic recovery rate after being organized into a woven fabric. It has been found that the fabric tends to have a higher density due to the force to return, and the shrinkage during the heat treatment tends to increase the density of the woven fabric.

[0007] In particular, it has been found that this tendency is remarkable when a substantially untwisted polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn is used for the warp. That is,
The present invention relates to a woven fabric comprising a warp made of a substantially untwisted polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn, wherein the warp has a cover factor of 500 to 1350 and the crimp ratio of the warp is 1.3. % To 4%.

In the present invention, the term "polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn" refers to a polyester fiber having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit.
0 mol% or more, preferably 70 mol% or more, and more preferably 8 mol% or more.
0 mol% or more, particularly preferably 90 mol% or more. Therefore, the total amount of the other acid component and / or glycol component as the third component is about 50 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, more preferably 20 mol% or less,
Particularly preferably, it includes polytrimethylene terephthalate contained in a range of 10 mol% or less.

[0009] Polytrimethylene terephthalate is produced by polymerizing terephthalic acid or a functional derivative thereof and trimethylene glycol or a functional derivative thereof in the presence of a catalyst under appropriate reaction conditions. In this production step, an appropriate one or more third components may be added to form a copolymerized polyester, or
Polyesters other than polytrimethylene terephthalate such as polyethylene terephthalate, nylon, and polytrimethylene terephthalate may be separately produced and then blended or composite-spun (sheath core, side-by-side, etc.).

The third components to be added include aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (oxalic acid, adipic acid, etc.), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid, etc.), aromatic dicarboxylic acids (isophthalic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, etc.). ), Aliphatic glycols (ethylene glycol, 1,2
-Propylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycols (cyclohexanediol, etc.), aromatic dioxy compounds (hydroquinone bisphenol A, etc.), aliphatic glycols containing aromatics (1,4
-Bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, etc.), polyether glycols (polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, etc.), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acids (ω
-Oxycaproic acid), aromatic oxycarboxylic acids (P
-Oxybenzoic acid, etc.). Compounds having one or more ester-forming functional groups (such as benzoic acid or glycerin) can also be used as long as the polymer is substantially linear.

Further, matting agents such as titanium dioxide, stabilizers such as phosphoric acid, ultraviolet absorbers such as hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, crystallization nucleating agents such as talc, lubricating agents such as aerosil, and antioxidants such as hindered phenol derivatives. An oxidizing agent, a flame retardant, an antistatic agent, a pigment, a fluorescent brightener, an infrared absorber, an antifoaming agent, and the like may be contained. In the present invention, for the spinning of the polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn, a method of obtaining an undrawn yarn at a winding speed of about 1500 m / min and then twisting it by about 2 to 3.5 times, a spinning and drawing step And a high-speed spinning method (spin draw or spin take-up method) with a winding speed of 5000 m / min or more.

The form of the monofilament constituting the polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn may be uniform or thick in the longitudinal direction, and may be round, triangular, L-shaped or T-shaped in cross section. , Y-shaped, W-shaped, eight-leaf, flat, dog-bone, and other polygonal, multilobal, hollow, and irregular shapes. Further, as the form of the yarn of the polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn,
Multifilament yarn (including ultrafine yarn) having a single yarn denier of about 0.1 to 5 denier, mixed fiber, false twisted yarn (POY
(Including low-temperature and / or low-twisted false twisted yarns), so-called fluid jet yarns such as so-called Taslan textured yarns.

In addition, within a range that does not impair the object of the present invention, usually within a range of preferably 30% by weight or less, another fiber yarn is entangled and mixed (different shrinkage mixed yarn with high shrinkage yarn, etc.), Mixed twisting, composite false twisting (elongation difference false twisting, etc.), and two-feed tanlan processing may be used. In the present invention, a substantially non-twisted polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn is used for the warp, but substantially non-twisted means, other than the twist imparted by the stretching process or unwinding from the package, etc. It means that no special twist is added, usually 100 T / m or less, more preferably 50 T / m or less. By the way, in the case of a so-called crimped woven fabric using a strongly twisted yarn of 1000 T / m or more, the yarn itself is not smooth due to twisting and crimping, and the yarn is bent in the yarn length direction. The soft texture of the trimethylene terephthalate yarn does not easily appear.

The warp yarn is preferably composed of 100% polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn. However, if desired, it may be mixed with other materials on a loom in an arrangement of, for example, one by one or two by one. . In the woven fabric of the present invention, the weft does not need to be particularly limited, and it is not limited to polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn, but also multifilament yarn or spun yarn such as synthetic fiber represented by polyethylene terephthalate fiber, or regenerated cellulose fiber. , Natural fibers or the like may be used, and furthermore, these composite yarns or processed yarns may be used, but preferably polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is preferable, and particularly when used substantially in a twistless manner like the warp yarn. Although effective, it may be used as a strongly twisted yarn to form a weft-twisted fabric such as so-called Desin, Palace, Chirimen or the like.

The woven fabric of the present invention has a warp cover factor of 500 to 1350, preferably 700 to 1000. If the cover factor is less than 500, a so-called misalignment caused by slipping of the warp and the weft occurs, and 135
If it exceeds 0, the object of the present invention will not be achieved. Here, the cover factor is 1 to the square root of the denier (D) of the yarn.
This is a value obtained by multiplying the number of density units per inch (N).
× √D.

The woven fabric of the present invention is characterized in that the warp has a crimp ratio of 1.3% to 4%, preferably 1.5% to 3%. If the crimp ratio is less than 1.3%, the fabric is thin and paper-like, the number of intersections between the warp and the weft in the fabric is reduced, and the misalignment defect and the wrinkle defect in which the arrangement of the yarns is disturbed are likely to occur. Become. Further, when the crimp ratio exceeds 4%, it indicates that the yarn density in the woven fabric is large, and the intersections of the yarns are too close to each other, so that the woven fabric has a hard texture, and is used for clothing. The value becomes low as a cloth.

[0017] Therefore, the crimp ratio is in the range of 1.3% to 4%, so that the fabric is soft, moderately stiff and has an excellent texture. Here, the crimp rate is the length (L) between the marks when a mark of 20 cm is marked on the warp of the woven fabric, the disassembled warp is applied to the measurement plate and an initial load of 1/10 (g / d) is applied. And the value calculated by the following equation.

Crimp rate (%) = {(L−20) / 20} × 100 The woven structure is not particularly limited, and may be a flat structure,
There are a twill structure, a satin structure, a combination of these structures, a changing structure, and the like. Particularly, in the case of a flat structure, the effect can be sufficiently exerted. In the present invention, the loom for weaving is not particularly limited, and excellent effects can be obtained for any of an air jet loom, a water jet loom, a rapier room, a gripper room, and a shuttle loom.

In order to obtain the woven fabric of the present invention, the softness is developed by increasing the difference between the warp density and weft density at the time of designing the woven fabric and the finish density and weft density of the finished product. Rather than forcibly setting the width of the woven fabric by a tentering set or the like, the woven fabric can be obtained by shrinking the coarsely designed woven fabric by the shrinkage force of the yarn itself due to a high elastic recovery rate or heat treatment.

More specifically, the fabric density and the weft density at the time of designing the fabric are roughly designed as a guide in the range of 5 to 20% as a density change rate from the target density of the finished product of the final product. This is a number in consideration of the shrinkage of the polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn on the loom and the shrinkage due to heat at the time of scouring relaxation.If the value is less than this value, the object of the present invention is not achieved. Finishing such as width fluctuation becomes difficult.

When the rate of change in density is large, the fabric is softer, and when the rate of change in density is small, the fabric is firm and firm. For example, when the densities and weft densities at the time of designing a woven fabric are 96 lines / inch and 79 lines / inch, when the densities and weft densities of the finished product of the final product are 10 lines / inch and 93 lines / inch, the density change The ratios are 13% and 15%, respectively, and the finished product is soft.

In the present invention, the treatment of the woven greige comprises:
Scouring, relaxing, intermediate heat setting, alkali weight loss processing,
It is only necessary to perform a series of processes according to a standard method such as dyeing and a tentering finishing set. If wrinkles easily occur, a series of processes may be performed in a spread state.

[0023]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to embodiments. The evaluation method in the examples is as follows. (1) Fabric texture The fabric is placed on a horizontal table, the degree of texture of the fabric is divided into five levels, and the sensory evaluation by handling indicates that the fabric with good texture is ○ (2 points) and the fabric with good texture is △
(1 point), cloth with poor texture was evaluated as x (0 point) and 5
It was ranked by person and represented by the average value. Evaluation is 1-2
Within the range of the points, a fabric with a good texture is used. (2) Bending height of woven fabric The woven fabric was cut into a square of 20 cm, placed on a horizontal table, and the height of the woven fabric when bent diagonally was measured. The measurement was performed twice for each sample, changing the diagonal position for five samples, and an average of ten measurements was obtained. This is a simple method to evaluate the softness of the fabric.The larger the bending height is, the harder the fabric is.The lower the bending height is, the softer the fabric is. Absent.

[0024]

Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 Polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarns obtained in the following production examples were used. Method for Producing Polytrimethylene Terephthalate Multifilament Yarn Polytrimethylene terephthalate having ηsp / c = 0.8 is made into an undrawn yarn at a spinning temperature of 265 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1200 m / min, then a hot roll temperature of 60 ° C. and a hot plate temperature of 140 ° C, stretching ratio 3 times, stretching speed 800m /
Then, a drawn yarn of 75d / 36f and 50d / 36f was obtained. The stretch elongation, elastic modulus and elastic recovery at 10% elongation of the drawn yarn were 3.2 g / d, 46% and 30 g / d, respectively.
d and 98%.

The elastic recovery at 10% elongation was as follows: the sample was subjected to an initial load of 0.01 g / d, and was stretched at a constant rate of 20% elongation per minute to reach an elongation of 10%. By the way, on the contrary, it contracts at the same speed, and draws a stress-strain curve.
The residual elongation when the stress was reduced to 0.01 g / d, which is equal to the initial load, during shrinkage was defined as X, and was calculated by the following equation. Elastic recovery at 10% elongation = (10−X) / 10 × 10
0 (%) The obtained polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn was subjected to weaving and dyeing processing under the following conditions.

Using a 50d / 36f polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn for the warp, weaving the weft at a warp tension of 0.20 g / d by changing the warp thread width (warp density) under various design conditions on a loom. 75d / 3
A 6f polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn was driven in and the number setting gear was varied to fabricate a flat-textile woven fabric. Density of obtained greige ((book / inch);
Wet) is as described in Table 1.

Next, these greige fabrics are subjected to relaxing scouring (95 ° C. × 30 minutes) using a liquid jet dyeing machine, and then to dyeing processing (110 ° C. × 40 minutes). 30 seconds) finish (density (book / inch);
Texture) was evaluated. The results were as shown in Table 1. In Examples 1 to 5 of the present invention, the fabric feeling was good, and no misalignment occurred during handling such as dyeing and finishing.

[0028]

[Table 1]

[0029]

The woven fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric having a good hand without using a hard hand and having the problem of becoming paper-like despite the use of polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A woven fabric comprising a warp made of a substantially non-twisted polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn, wherein the warp has a cover factor of 500 to 135.
0, and the warp has a crimp ratio of 1.3% to 4%.