JP7081962B2 - Textured fabric - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a textured woven fabric having stable grain with little variation, stretchability and a soft texture, and a method for producing the same.

Conventionally, weft-twisted fabrics such as decine, palace, and crepe, warp-twisted fabrics such as oriental crepe, and warp-twisted fabrics such as georgette are dyed using strong twisted yarns for warps and / or wefts. It is manufactured by expressing grain in a processing step (for example, Patent Document 1). Further, in recent years, a large number of woven fabrics having stretchability have been proposed in terms of wearing comfort (for example, Patent Document 2 and Patent Document 3).

However, when the twist coefficient is increased, there is a problem that the shape of the grain is different between the center of the woven fabric and the ear edge, that is, the problem of so-called middle rare occurs and the texture becomes hard.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 11-93037 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 11-93031 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2005-89928

The present invention has been made in view of the above background, and an object of the present invention is to provide a grained woven fabric having stable grain with little variation, stretchability and a soft texture, and a method for producing the same.

As a result of diligent studies to achieve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventor skillfully devises the twisted yarns and the like constituting the grained woven fabric, so that the grain has stable grain with little variation, stretchability and soft texture. We have found that a woven fabric can be obtained, and have completed the present invention through further diligent studies.

Thus, according to the present invention, "a textured woven fabric in which twisted yarns containing composite fibers and non-composite fibers are arranged in warp and / or weft, and the elongation rate in the direction in which the twisted yarns are arranged is 5". % Or more, the young ratio A of the non-composite fiber is smaller than the young ratio B of the composite fiber, the total of A and B is 8000 N / mm ² or less, and the non-composite fiber is polytri. A textured woven fabric characterized by being a fiber composed of a single component of methylene terephthalate . "

At that time, it is preferable that the total fineness of the non-composite fiber is twice or more the total fineness of the composite fiber. Further, it is preferable that the composite fiber is a composite fiber containing polytrimethylene terephthalate as one component. At that time, it is preferable that the composite fiber is a composite fiber composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate. Further, it is preferable that the composite fiber is a composite fiber composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate and a polymer other than polytrimethylene terephthalate. Further , it is preferable that the cover factor CF of the woven fabric is in the range of 1000 to 3500.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWp + (DWf / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWf
[DWp is the total fineness of the warp yarn (dtex), MWp is the total fineness of the warp yarn (book / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total fineness of the weft yarn (dtex), and MWf is the density of the weft yarn (book / 2.54 cm) . ]

According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a grained woven fabric having stable grain with little variation, stretchability and a soft texture, and a method for producing the same.

It is a drawing substitute photograph of the grained woven fabric of this invention.

Hereinafter, embodiments for carrying out the present invention will be described in detail, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

First, in the present invention, the twisted yarn includes a composite fiber and a non-composite fiber (a fiber composed of a single component). At that time, it is preferable that the Young's modulus A of the non-composite fiber is smaller than the Young's modulus B of the composite fiber. Further, it is preferable that the total of A and B is 8000 N / mm ² or less (more preferably 1000 to 5000 N / mm ² ). Further, it is preferable that the total fineness of the non-composite fiber is twice or more (more preferably 2.5 times or more, particularly preferably 2.9 to 8 times) the total fineness of the composite fiber. If the total fineness of the non-composite fiber is less than twice the total fineness of the composite fiber, the uneven shape of the grain may be greatly varied.

The type of the composite fiber and the non-composite fiber is not particularly limited, but a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is preferable.

The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is a fiber containing polytrimethylene terephthalate as a constituent. Here, the polytrimethylene terephthalate refers to a trimethylene terephthalate unit having a trimethylene terephthalate unit of about 50 mol% or more, preferably 70 mol% or more, further 80 mol% or more, still more preferably 90 mol% or more. Therefore, in such polytrimethylene terephthalate, the total amount of other acid components and / or glycol components as the third component is about 50 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, and more preferably 20 mol% or less. Particularly preferably, it may be contained in the range of 10 mol% or less. Polytrimethylene terephthalate is synthesized by binding terephthalic acid or a functional derivative thereof and trimethylene glycol or a derivative thereof in the presence of a catalyst under appropriate reaction conditions. In this synthetic process, it may be a copolymerized polyester to which one or more suitable third components are added.

The third component to be added includes aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (such as oxalic acid and adipic acid), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (such as cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid), aromatic dicarboxylic acids (such as isophthalic acid and sodium sulfoisophthalic acid), and fats. Group glycol (ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycol (cyclohexanediol, etc.), aromatic dioxy compound (hydroquinone bisphenol A, etc.), aliphatic glycol containing aromatic acid (1, 4-Bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) penzen, etc.), polyether glycol (polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, etc.), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acid (ω-oxycaproic acid, etc.), aromatic oxycarboxylic acid (P-oxybenzoic acid, etc.) Etc.). Further, a compound having one or more ester-forming functional groups (such as benzoic acid or glycerin) can also be used as long as the polymer is substantially linear.

In addition, polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers include matting agents such as titanium dioxide, stabilizers such as phosphoric acid, ultraviolet absorbers such as hydroxypensophenone derivatives, crystallizing nucleating agents such as talc, and easy slip agents such as aerodil. , Antioxidants such as hindered phenol derivatives, flame retardants, antistatic agents, pigments, fluorescent whitening agents, ultraviolet absorbers, defoaming agents and the like may be contained.

The non-composite fiber is preferably formed of the polytrimethylene terephthalate component alone. On the other hand, the composite fiber is composed of a composite fiber composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate not copolymerized with the third component and polytrimethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing the third component. It may be a core-sheath type or side-by-side type composite fiber containing polytrimethylene terephthalate as one component, such as a composite fiber or a composite fiber made of polyester other than polytrimethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate.

For spinning of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, for example, using a normal spinning device or a normal composite spinning device, an undrawn yarn is obtained at a winding speed of about 1500 m / min, and then about 2 to 3.5 times. Any of a stretching method, a straight stretching method in which the spinning one-drawing step is directly connected, and a high-speed spinning method (spin draw or spin take-up method) having a take-up speed of 5,000 m / min or more may be used. The form of the fiber is not particularly limited. Long fibers (multifilament threads) or short fibers may be used, but long fibers are preferable in order to obtain excellent staple properties. Further, it may be an air-processed yarn such as interlace or Taslan, or a normal false-twisted yarn.

In the composite fiber and the non-composite fiber, the fineness of the fiber is not particularly limited, but the range of the fabric strength and texture, the total fineness of 33 to 500 dtex, and the single fiber fineness of 0.3 to 6 dtex is appropriate. Further, the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn is not particularly limited. Not only normal round type, but also flat, triangular, Y-shaped, Ding-shaped, U-shaped and other atypical and multi-leaf types. It may be an amorphous type such as a hollow type.

The sip woven fabric of the present invention can be produced, for example, by the following method. First, a twisted yarn is obtained by using a composite fiber and a non-composite fiber. At that time, it is preferable that the heat shrinkage rate A of the composite fiber is larger than the heat shrinkage rate B of the non-composite fiber. Further, it is preferable that the wet heat shrinkage rate of the composite fiber is 8% or more (more preferably 8 to 12%) and the dry heat shrinkage rate is 10% or more (more preferably 10 to 15%).

Further, when twisting the composite fiber and the non-composite fiber together, it is preferable to twist the fiber with a twist coefficient α of 7500 or less (preferably in the range of 5000 to 7000, particularly preferably 6000 to 6500). When the twist coefficient α is larger than 7500, although the texture is expressed, the texture may be lowered, the fabric may be flat and have a poor expression, and the uneven shape of the texture may be greatly varied. Further, the texture becomes hard and the stretchability may be impaired. The twist coefficient α is represented by the following.
α = T × D ^1/2
However, T is the number of twists of the yarn (T / m), and D is the total fineness of the yarn (dtex).

Next, the twisted yarns are combined with other fibers by entangled mixed fibers, mixed twists, composite false twists, or the like, and then the woven fabric is woven. At that time, it is preferable that the other yarns are 30% by weight or less based on the weight of the composite yarns.

Further, when arranging the twisted yarns on the warp and / or weft of the woven fabric, the yarns having different twisting coefficients may be arranged as appropriate, and may be appropriately selected according to the desired appearance of the woven fabric such as plain or striped. .. For example, 1 alternate to 6 alternating (1: 1 to 6: 6), 1: 2 alternating, 1: 3 alternating, 1: 4 alternating, etc. In consideration of the balance, threads having different twisting directions, that is, S-twisted yarn (S) and Z-twisted yarn (Z) are appropriately combined to form SZ, SSZZ, SZZZ-S, etc. It may be an array of.

Examples of the texture of the woven fabric include flat, Aya, Akiko, and their changing textures. Of these, plain weave is preferable.

Then, the woven fabric is subjected to a relaxing treatment. The conditions for such relaxing treatment are preferably 0.2 to 2 hours in hot water at 80 to 95 ° C. At the same time as the grain is developed by the relaxing treatment, the twisted yarns are randomly bent in the woven fabric as schematically shown in FIG. 1, and excellent stretchability is exhibited. The mechanism by which such a bent structure is developed is attributed to the fact that the Young's modulus of the non-composite fiber is small and it is easy to bend, the heat shrinkage rate of the composite fiber is large, and the fineness of the non-composite fiber is larger than that of the composite fiber. thinking. When the woven fabric is relaxed, the non-composite fiber with high fineness becomes the core and the composite fiber with low fineness becomes the sheath, and the composite fiber with high heat shrinkage rate as the sheath has a low Young's modulus as the core. It is conceivable that the non-composite fibers are greatly bent. As a subsequent preset condition, it is necessary to preset with a width of 1.4 times or less (preferably 1.0 to 1.1 times) with respect to the rise of relaxation. If the width is larger than 1.4 times, the bent structure of the twisted yarn developed by the relaxing treatment is stretched and returned to the woven structure before the relaxing treatment, which is not preferable because the trench property is impaired. The temperature of the preset treatment is preferably 140 to 180 ° C., more preferably 150 to 170 ° C., and the time is preferably 10 seconds to 5 minutes, more preferably 30 seconds to 1 minute.

In addition, you may perform alkali weight loss (5-40%) and dyeing at the same time as the relaxation treatment, the preset treatment, or following these treatments. In addition, when performing the final set, the temperature is 140 to 180 ° C (more preferably 150 to 170 ° C) with a width of 1.4 times or less (preferably 1.0 to 1.1 times) of the relaxed rise. The time is preferably 10 seconds to 5 minutes (more preferably 30 seconds to 1 minute).
Furthermore, the functions of conventional water absorption processing, water repellent processing, brushing processing, UV shielding or antistatic agent, antibacterial agent, deodorant, insect repellent, phosphorescent agent, retroreflective agent, negative ion generator, etc. Various processings may be additionally applied. In particular, when (silicon-based) resin processing is applied, the frictional resistance between the threads is reduced and the stretchability can be improved.

In the textured woven fabric thus obtained, the cover factor CF of the woven fabric is preferably in the range of 1000 to 3500 in terms of texture and surface appearance. More preferably, it is 1400 to 2800. If the cover factor is less than 1000, the warp and weft tend to slip, and if it exceeds 3500, the texture may become hard. The copper factor CF is represented by the following.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWp 10 (DWf / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWf
However, DWp is the total warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weft density (book / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weft density (book / 2.54 cm).

Since the grained woven fabric has the above-mentioned structure, it has stable grain with little variation, stretchability and a soft texture.

Here, the elongation rate in the direction in which the twisted yarns are arranged has an elongation rate of 5% or more (preferably 10% or more, particularly preferably 15 to 40% or more). The elongation rate was measured by the L 1096-1998 6.14.1B method (constant load method). If the stretch ratio is less than 5%, the stretchability is not sufficient and the comfort when worn may be impaired. In order to achieve an elongation ratio of 5% or more, the twist coefficient and CF may be appropriately selected within the above range.

Such grained fabrics are suitably used as clothing (for example, blouses, Japanese clothing, sportswear, uniforms, lab coats, work clothes, nursing care clothing, etc.) and bags.

Next, examples and comparative examples of the present invention will be described in detail, but the present invention is not limited thereto. In addition, each measurement item in an Example was measured by the following method.

<Stretchability>
The elongation rate (%) was measured by the JIS L1096-1998 6.14.1B method (constant load method).
[Example 1]
167 dtex / 36 polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament drawn yarns not copolymerized with the third component and 56 dtex / 36 composite fiber multifilament yarns composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate are prepared and twisted. After weaving using twisted yarns twisted at 450 T / m (twist coefficient α = 6,364) for the warp and weft of a flat woven fabric, relaxation treatment (120 ° C, 20 minutes) and presetting treatment ( 160 ° C, 45 seconds), dyeing, resin processing (silicone-based, AN1700 manufactured by Hosha), and final set (160 ° C, 45 seconds) were performed to obtain a textured woven fabric.

In the obtained grained woven fabric, as shown in FIG. 1, the threads are randomly bent, have good grain, and there is a difference in the uneven pattern on the surface of the fabric at the ear edge and the center of the fabric. It became nothing. The thickness of the dough was 830 μm. In addition, the elongation rate in the warp / latitude direction was 15% / 20%, which was very excellent. The raw machine width, relaxed ascending width, and preset ascending width were as follows. Raw machine width = 180 cm, relaxed ascending width = 120 cm, preset ascending width = 124 cm.

The Young's modulus is 1652 N / mm ² for the polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament drawn yarn 167 dtex / 36, and 2464 N / mm ² for the composite fiber multifilament yarn 56 dtex / 36 composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate. The total rate was 4116 N / mm ² . The wet heat shrinkage rate of the polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament drawn yarn is 7.2%, the dry heat shrinkage rate is 11.6%, and the wet heat shrinkage rate of the composite fiber multifilament yarn composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate. Was 9.3% and the dry heat shrinkage rate was 12.3%.

[Example 2]
Two 84 dtex / 36 polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament drawn yarns, which are the same as in Example 1, are arranged, and a composite fiber multifilament yarn 56 dtex composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate is arranged, and the number of twists is 450 T /. It was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the twisted yarn of m (twist coefficient α = 6364) was applied.

In the obtained grained woven fabric, the threads were randomly bent to have good grain, and there was no difference in the uneven pattern on the surface of the fabric at the ears and the center of the fabric. The thickness of the dough was 1190 μm. In addition, the elongation rate in the warp / weft direction was 12% / 14%, which was excellent. The raw machine width, relaxed ascending width, and preset ascending width were as follows. Raw machine width = 140 cm, relaxed ascending width = 110 cm, preset ascending width = 112 cm.

The Young's modulus of the polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament drawn yarn was 1585 N / mm ² , which was sufficiently smaller than that of the polytrimethylene terephthalate composite fiber multifilament drawn yarn, and the total Young's modulus was 5634 N / mm ² .

[Example 3]
The same polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament drawn yarn 84 dtex / 36 as in Example 1 and the composite fiber multifilament yarn 22 dtex / 4 composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate are arranged, and the number of twists is 700 T / m ( This was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the twisted yarn having a twist coefficient α = 6,822) was applied.

In the obtained grained woven fabric, the threads were randomly bent to have good grain, and there was no difference in the uneven pattern on the surface of the fabric at the ears and the center of the fabric. The thickness of the dough was 810 μm. In addition, the elongation rate in the warp / latitude direction was 12% / 14%, which was excellent. The raw machine width, relaxed ascending width, and preset ascending width were as follows. Raw machine width = 140 cm, relaxed ascending width = 110 cm, preset ascending width = 112 cm.

[Comparative Example 1]
In Example 1, instead of 167 dtex / 36 polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament stretched yarns in which the third component is not copolymerized, ordinary polyethylene terephthalate multifilament drawn yarns 167 dtex / 36 yarns are used, and polytrimethylene is used. Implemented except that instead of 56 dtex / 36 composite fiber multifilament yarns made of terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate, 56 dtex / 36 composite fiber multifilament drawn yarns made of ordinary polyethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate were used. It was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1.

As a result, no grain was expressed, and the stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction was 2% / 3%, and the stretchability was insufficient. The thickness of the dough was 341 μm. The raw machine width, relaxed ascending width, and preset ascending width were as follows. Raw machine width = 140 cm, relaxed ascending width = 119 cm, preset ascending width = 118 cm.

The Young's modulus of the normal polyethylene terephthalate multifilament drawn yarn is 7437 N / mm ² , and the Young's modulus of the normal polyethylene terephthalate multifilament drawn yarn is 7393 N / mm ² , which is too large and causes wrinkles. It wasn't.

[Comparative Example 2]
In Example 1, instead of 167 dtex / 36 polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament stretched yarns in which the third component was not copolymerized, 167 dtex / 36 cation dye dyeable polyethylene terephthalate multifilament drawn yarns were used. Was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1.

As a result, no grain was expressed, and the stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction was 2% / 3%, and the stretchability was insufficient. In addition, the texture became hard. The thickness of the dough defined in claim 4 was 440 μm. The raw machine width, relaxed ascending width, and preset ascending width were as follows. Raw machine width = 140 cm, relaxed ascending width = 119 cm, preset ascending width = 118 cm.

The Young's modulus of the cationic dye dyeable polyethylene terephthelate multifilament drawn yarn was 4627 N / mm ² , and the Young's modulus was too large to generate wrinkles.

[Comparative Example 3]
In Example 1, instead of 167 dtex / 36 polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament drawn yarns in which the third component was not copolymerized, 167 dtex / 36 polyethylene tereftelate multifilament false twist crimped yarns were used. Was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1.

As a result, no grain was expressed, and the stretch ratio in the warp / weft direction was 2% / 3%, and the stretchability was insufficient. The thickness of the dough was 450 μm. The raw machine width, relaxed ascending width, and preset ascending width were as follows. Raw machine width = 140 cm, relaxed ascending width = 119 cm, preset ascending width = 118 cm.
The Young's modulus of the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament false twist crimped yarn was 4049 N / mm ² , and the Young's modulus was too large to generate wrinkles.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, a textured woven fabric having stable grain with little variation, stretchability and a soft texture, and a method for producing the same are provided, and the industrial value thereof is extremely large.

Claims (6)

A textured woven fabric in which twisted yarns containing composite fibers and non-composite fibers are arranged in warp and / or weft, and the elongation rate in the direction in which the twisted yarns are arranged is 5% or more . ,
The Young's modulus A of the non-composite fiber is smaller than the Young's modulus B of the composite fiber, the total of A and B is 8000 N / mm ² or less, and the non-composite fiber is a fiber composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate alone. A textured fabric characterized by that. The textured woven fabric according to claim 1 , wherein the total fineness of the non-composite fiber is at least twice the total fineness of the composite fiber. The textured woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the composite fiber is a composite fiber containing polytrimethylene terephthalate as one component. The textured woven fabric according to claim 3 , wherein the composite fiber is a composite fiber composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate. The textured woven fabric according to claim 3 , wherein the composite fiber is a composite fiber composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate and a polymer other than polytrimethylene terephthalate. The textured woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5 , wherein the woven fabric has a cover factor CF in the range of 1000 to 3500.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWp + (DWf / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWf
[DWp is the total fineness of the warp yarn (dtex), MWp is the total fineness of the warp yarn (book / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total fineness of the weft yarn (dtex), and MWf is the density of the weft yarn (book / 2.54 cm). ]

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