JP2003342854A - Cotton crepe-like woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a cotton crepe-like woven fabric having a pongee-like appearance obtained by fusing uneven feeling of a yarn peculiar to a spun yarn, with a cotton crepe-like feeling. <P>SOLUTION: The cotton crepe-like woven fabric is constituted of spun yarns as warp yarns, and latent crimp-manifesting polyester multifilament yarns comprising two or more kinds of polyester components at least one of which is a polytrimethylene terephthalate as weft yarns. The ratio (warp yarn CF/weft yarn CF) of the following cover factor (warp yarn CF) of the warp yarns to the following cover factor (weft yarn CF) of the weft yarns is regulated so as to be ≥1.5: warp yarn CF=warp yarn density (number of yarns/2.54 cm)×warp yarn size (dtex)<SP>0.5</SP>; and weft yarn CF=weft yarn density (number of yarns/2.54 cm)×weft yarn size (dtex)<SP>0.5</SP>. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2004,JPO

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a Yangyanagi-like woven fabric in which spun yarn is used as a warp. The present invention relates to a Yangyanagi-like woven fabric having a pongee-like appearance that greatly differs in taste.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art As represented by jeans and corduroy,
Woven fabrics that use spun yarns such as cotton for warp and weft yarns have pants, chinos,
It is often used as a bottom for skirts and shirts,
With the diversification of needs, there is a demand for a fabric whose surface appearance is slightly different from the conventional one. Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2002-4149 proposes a woven fabric having a jacquard pattern in which latent crimp-developing polyester fibers containing polytrimethylene terephthalate as a component are used as weft yarns. This publication discloses a woven fabric in which spun yarn is used as a warp, but does not mention a Yangyanagi-like woven fabric having a pongee-like appearance in which a yarn unevenness unique to the spun yarn is fused. . Generally, spun crepe using spun yarn (silk spinning) as warp and strongly twisted yarn as weft has no noticeable graininess and is far from a Yangyanagi-like appearance.

[0003]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a Yangyanagi-like woven fabric having a pongee-like appearance, which is very different from the conventional one, in which a yarn unevenness unique to spun yarn is fused with a Yangyanagi tone. And

[0004]

Means for Solving the Invention As a result of intensive studies for solving the above-mentioned problems, the present inventor has adopted a cover factor (CF), and at the same time, the cover factor of the warp (the warp CF) and the cover factor of the weft ( By specifying the ratio with the weft CF) (warp CF / weft CF),
The inventors have found that the above problems can be solved and completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention relates to a latent crimp-forming polyester fiber multifilament yarn in which the warp yarn is a spun yarn, the weft yarn is composed of two or more polyester components, and at least one component thereof is polytrimethylene terephthalate. A structured Yangyanagi-like woven fabric, characterized in that the ratio of the warp cover factor (warp CF) to the weft cover factor (weft CF) (warp CF / weft CF) is 1.5 or more. It is a woven fabric. Warp CF = Warp Density (Book / 2.54 cm) x Warp Fineness (dtex) ^0.5 Weft CF = Weft Density (Book / 2.54 cm) x Weft Fineness (dtex) ^0.5

The latent crimp-developing polyester fiber in the present invention is composed of at least two kinds of polyester components (specifically, many are joined in a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type). That is, the crimp is developed by the heat treatment. Composite ratio when composed of two polyester components (generally, mass%
In many cases, it is within the range of 70/30 to 30/70), and the shape of the joint surface (there is a straight or curved shape) is not limited. The total fineness of the latent crimp-developing polyester fiber is 20.
˜300 dtex and single yarn fineness of 0.5 to 20 dtex are preferably used, but not limited thereto.

The present invention is characterized by the use of latent crimp-developing polyester fibers composed of two or more polyester components, at least one of which is polytrimethylene terephthalate. Specifically, JP 2001
There is one containing polytrimethylene terephthalate as one component as disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No.-40537. That is, it is a composite fiber in which two types of polyester polymers are joined in a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type, and in the case of the side-by-side type, the melt viscosity ratio of the two types of polyester polymers is preferably 1.00 to 2.00, In the case of the eccentric core-sheath type, the sheath polymer and the core polymer preferably have an alkali weight loss rate of 3 times or more that of the sheath polymer.

Specific polymer combinations include:
Polytrimethylene terephthalate (polyester containing terephthalic acid as a main dicarboxylic acid and 1.3-propanediol as a main glycol component, glycols such as ethylene glycol and butanediol, isophthalic acid, 2.6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, etc. May be copolymerized with other dicarboxylic acids, etc., and may contain additives such as other polymers, matting agents, flame retardants, antistatic agents and pigments.)
And polyethylene terephthalate (polyester containing terephthalic acid as a main dicarboxylic acid and ethylene glycol as a main glycol component, copolymerized with glycols such as butanediol and isophthalic acid, dicarboxylic acids such as 2.6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, etc. Other polymers, matting agents, flame retardants, antistatic agents, pigments, and other additives may be included in combination, and polytrimethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate (terephthalic acid-based dicarboxylic acid). It is a polyester that uses 1.4-butanediol as a main glycol component as an acid, and may be copolymerized with glycols such as ethylene glycol and diphthalic acid such as isophthalic acid and 2.6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. Polymer, matting agent, flame retardant, antistatic agent May contain additives such as a pigment.) A combination of the preferred, particularly, it is preferable that polytrimethylene terephthalate is disposed inside the crimp.

As described above, according to the present invention, at least one of the polyester components constituting the latent crimp-developing polyester fiber is polytrimethylene terephthalate, and in addition to the above-mentioned JP 2001-40537 A, JP-B-43-43.
-19108, JP 11-189923, JP 2000-239927, and JP 2000.
In JP-A-256918, JP-A-2000-328382, JP-A-2001-81640, etc., the first component is polytrimethylene terephthalate, and the second component is different from the first component, polytrimethylene terephthalate. , Polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and other polyesters such as side-by-side type or eccentric sheath-core type which are arranged in parallel or eccentrically are disclosed. Particularly, a combination of polytrimethylene terephthalate and copolymerized polytrimethylene terephthalate, or a combination of two kinds of polytrimethylene terephthalate having different intrinsic viscosities is preferable.

Further, in order to achieve the object of the present invention, the initial tensile resistance of the latent crimp-developing polyester fiber is preferably 10 to 30 cN / dtex, more preferably 20 to 30 cN / dtex, and most preferably. 20
~ 27 cN / dtex. Initial tensile resistance is 30c
If it exceeds N / dtex, it is difficult to obtain a soft texture, and it becomes difficult to manufacture fibers having a viscosity of less than 10 cN / dtex.

The latent crimp-developing polyester fiber of the present invention preferably has an expansion and contraction elongation ratio of the actual crimp of 10 to 100%, more preferably 10 to 80%, and most preferably 10 to 60%. . Expansion and contraction rate of actual crimp is 10
If it is less than 100%, the object of the present invention may not be sufficiently achieved, and it is difficult to produce fibers exceeding 100%. Furthermore, the latent crimp-developing polyester fiber of the present invention preferably has an elastic crimp expansion / contraction modulus of 80 to 100%, more preferably 85 to 100%, and most preferably 8.
5 to 97%. If the elastic modulus of the actual crimp is less than 80%, the object of the present invention may not be sufficiently achieved,
The production of fibers exceeding 100% is difficult.

Further, the heat shrinkage stress at 100 ° C. is preferably 0.1 to 0.5 cN / dtex,
It is more preferably 0.1 to 0.4 cN / dtex, and most preferably 0.1 to 0.3 cN / dtex. 100
When the heat shrinkage stress at 0 ° C. is less than 0.1 cN / dtex, the object of the present invention may not be sufficiently achieved,
It is difficult to produce fibers exceeding 0.5 cN / dtex.

The expansion and contraction rate of the latent crimp developable polyester fiber of the present invention after hot water treatment is preferably 100 to 250%, more preferably 150 to 250%, and most preferably 180 to 250%. Is. When the expansion / contraction elongation ratio after hot water treatment is less than 100%, the object of the present invention may not be sufficiently achieved, and it is difficult to produce fibers exceeding 250%. The elastic modulus after hot water treatment is preferably 90 to 100%, more preferably 95 to 100%. If the elastic modulus of expansion / contraction after hot water treatment is less than 90%, the object of the present invention may not be sufficiently achieved.

As the latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber having such characteristics, there is a composite fiber composed of a single yarn in which two kinds of polytrimethylene terephthalate having different intrinsic viscosities are compounded side by side with each other. The difference in intrinsic viscosity between the two types of polytrimethylene terephthalate is preferably 0.05 to 0.40 (dl / g), and more preferably 0.10 to 0.35 (dl / g).
g), most preferably 0.15-0.35 (dl / g)
Is. For example, if the intrinsic viscosity on the high viscosity side is 0.70 to 1.
When selected from 30 (dl / g), the intrinsic viscosity on the low viscosity side is preferably selected from 0.50 to 1.10 (dl / g). The intrinsic viscosity on the low viscosity side is 0.80 (dl
/ G) or more, more preferably 0.85 to 1.
00 (dl / g), most preferably 0.90 to 1.00
(Dl / g).

The intrinsic viscosity of the conjugate fiber itself, that is, the average intrinsic viscosity is 0.70 to 1.20 (dl /
g) is preferable, 0.80 to 1.20 (dl / g) is more preferable, 0.85 to 1.15 (dl / g) is further preferable, and 0.90 to 1.10 (dl / g) is Most preferred. The value of the intrinsic viscosity in the present invention refers to the viscosity of the spun yarn, not the polymer used. The reason for this is that, as a drawback peculiar to polytrimethylene terephthalate, thermal decomposition is more likely to occur as compared with polyethylene terephthalate and the like, and even if a polymer having a high intrinsic viscosity is used, the intrinsic viscosity is significantly reduced by thermal decomposition. This is because it is difficult to maintain a large difference in intrinsic viscosity between the two.

The polytrimethylene terephthalate used in the present invention is a polyester having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit, and the trimethylene terephthalate unit is 50 mol% or more, preferably 7%.
0 mol% or more, more preferably 80 mol% or more, most preferably 90 mol% or more. Therefore,
The total amount of other acid component and / or glycol component as the third component is 50 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, more preferably 20 mol% or less, most preferably 1 mol% or less.
It includes polytrimethylene terephthalate contained in an amount of 0 mol% or less.

Polytrimethylene terephthalate is synthesized by combining terephthalic acid or a functional derivative thereof with trimethylene glycol or a functional derivative thereof in the presence of a catalyst under appropriate reaction conditions. In this synthetic process, a suitable one or two or more kinds of third components may be added to form a copolyester, or a polyester or nylon other than polytrimethylene terephthalate such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene. The terephthalates may be synthesized separately and then blended. When blending, the content of polytrimethylene terephthalate is mass%
Is 50% or more.

As the third component to be added, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (oxalic acid, adipic acid, etc.), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, etc.), aromatic dicarboxylic acids (isophthalic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, etc.) ), Aliphatic glycols (ethylene glycol, 1, 2
-Propylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycols (cyclohexanedimethanol, etc.), aliphatic glycols containing aromatics (1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, etc.), polyether glycols (polyethylene glycol) , Polypropylene glycol, etc.), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acids (ω-oxycaproic acid, etc.), aromatic oxycarboxylic acids (P-oxybenzoic acid, etc.), and the like. Further, a compound having one or three or more ester-forming functional groups (benzoic acid or the like or glycerin or the like) can also be used within a range in which the polymer is substantially linear.

Further, matting agents such as titanium dioxide, stabilizers such as phosphoric acid, ultraviolet absorbers such as hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, crystallization nucleating agents such as talc, lubricants such as aerosil, antioxidants such as hindered phenol derivatives. An agent, a flame retardant, an antistatic agent, a pigment, a fluorescent whitening agent, an infrared absorbing agent, an antifoaming agent and the like may be contained. The method for producing the latent crimp-developing polyester fiber used in the present invention is disclosed in the above-mentioned various Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publications, for example, 2-3 after obtaining an undrawn yarn at a winding speed of 3000 m / min or less. A method of producing by twisting about 5 times is preferable, but a direct rolling method (spin draw method) in which a spinning-twisting step is directly connected, a winding speed of 5000 m /
A high-speed spinning method (spin take-up method) for more than a minute may be adopted.

The shape of the fibers may be uniform or thick in the length direction, and the cross section is round, triangular or L-shaped.
Type, T type, Y type, W type, Yagi type, flatness (flatness 1.3 ~
There are about 4 types, such as W type, I type, Bou-Melan type, wavy type, skewer dumpling type, eyebrow type, rectangular parallelepiped type), polygonal type such as dog bone type, multileaf type, hollow type, etc. It may be an irregular shape.
The form of the yarn includes a multifilament raw yarn, a sweet twist yarn to a strong twist yarn, a false twist textured yarn (including a drawn false twist yarn of POY),
There are air-jet processed yarns, indented processed yarns, knit denitted processed yarns, and the like.

Within the range that does not impair the object of the present invention, usually within the range of 50% by mass or less, natural fibers, synthetic fibers, etc.
Other fibers, for example, natural fibers such as cotton, wool, hemp, silk, cupra rayon, viscose rayon, polynosic rayon, purified cellulose fiber, acetate fiber, polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate,
Covering polyester fibers such as polytrimethylene terephthalate, various artificial fibers such as nylon and acrylic, as well as copolymerized types of these, and composite fibers using the same or different polymers (side-by-side type, eccentric sheath core type, etc.) ( Single, double), for example, boiling water shrinkage 3-10
% Low shrinkage yarn, or, for example, boiling water shrinkage rate 15 to 3
About 0% mixed fiber with high shrinkage yarn, mixed twist, false twist (elongation difference false twist,
POY may be mixed by means such as two-feed air injection processing.

The latent crimp-developing polyester fiber multifilament yarn is preferably untwisted, but may be further twisted, plied, or twined or tripled for use, if necessary. The number of twists (T2) in the additional twist and the ply twist may be selected within a range where the twist coefficient (K2) calculated by the following equation is, for example, 20000 or less. T2 (T / m) = K2 / (total fineness: dtex) ^0.5

In the present invention, as the spun yarn used for the warp, natural fibers such as wool, silk, cotton and hemp, cellulosic fibers such as cupra rayon, viscose rayon, polynosic rayon and purified cellulose fiber, acetate fiber, polyethylene Polyester fibers such as terephthalate fibers, polybutylene terephthalate fibers, polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers, various artificial fibers such as nylon fibers and acrylic fibers, and further copolymer type fibers thereof, and composite fibers using the same or different polymers ( (Side-by-side type, eccentric sheath core type, etc.) etc. alone or in combination of two or more types, such as ring spun yarn, open-end spun yarn, bundle spun yarn, composite spun yarn such as silospan, silofil, hollow spindle, low shrinkage yarn and high yarn. Some of them are made by blending with shrinkable yarn or by twisting. But especially cotton, refined cellulose fiber, wool is preferred.

In the present invention, the spun yarn may be a yarn-dyed yarn, and the yarn-dyed yarn may be used as the latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber multifilament yarn at that time, but the final product without dyeing may be used. May be As the thickness of the spun yarn, a conventionally known thickness can be adopted, but the preferable thickness is preferably a cotton count of 10 or more, more preferably 20 or more. Further, it is preferably 150 count or less, more preferably 100 count or less, and most preferably 80 count or less.

The woven fabric of the present invention is a mixed woven fabric in which the warp yarn is a spun yarn and the weft yarn is the above-mentioned multifilament yarn, and the mixing ratio of both is preferably 30:70 to 70:30 by mass%.
It is more preferably 35:65 to 65:35, and most preferably 40:60 to 60:40. The content of the multifilament yarn in the woven fabric of the present invention is, by mass%, preferably 10 to 70%, more preferably 15 to 60%, most preferably 30 to 60%.

Within the range which does not impair the object of the present invention, usually within the range of 30% by mass or less, fibers other than spun yarn and multifilament yarn are on-machine, for example, warp and / or
Alternatively, one to three weft yarns may be alternately woven. The partner to be mixed is exemplified as a fiber to be composited with the above-mentioned multifilament yarn. For example, the weft yarn is made of the above-mentioned multifilament yarn and polyester-based multifilament yarn such as polytrimethylene terephthalate, polyethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate. There is a yarn composed of 1 to 3 twisted yarns alternately.

The type of fabric is not limited,
Although it may be a flat structure, a twill structure, a satin structure, a warp pile fabric, or a combination of these structures, a flat structure, a twill structure, or a warp pile fabric is more preferable. The Yangyanagi-like woven fabric of the present invention has a ratio of warp cover factor (warp CF) to weft cover factor (weft CF) (warp CF / weft CF) of 1.5 or more, preferably 1.8 or more, 3.0.
It is the following. Warp CF = Warp Density (Book / 2.54 cm) x Warp Fineness (dtex) ^0.5 Weft CF = Weft Density (Book / 2.54 cm) x Weft Fineness (dtex) ^0.5 (Warf CF / Weft CF) is less than 1.5 In spite of the fact that it is a Yangyanagi tone, it does not become a Yangyanagi tone fabric having a pongee-like appearance in which the yarn unevenness peculiar to the present invention and the Yangyanagi tone, which are peculiar to the present invention, are merged and there is no big difference from the known ones. . (Warp CF
If the weft CF) exceeds 3.0, the toothpick will be too strong and the yarn unevenness peculiar to spun yarn tends to be impaired.

Cover factor CF (= warp CF of woven fabric)
+ Weft CF) is preferably 1800 or more, more preferably 2000 or more, and 3000 or less. If the cover factor CF is less than 1800, defects such as misalignment are likely to occur, and if the cover factor CF exceeds 3,000, it is difficult to obtain a Yangyanagi-like appearance. The loom for weaving the fabric of the present invention is not limited, and includes an air jet loom,
A rapier room, a gripper room, a shuttle loom, etc. can be used.

The method for finishing the fabric of the present invention includes:
First, the greige is scoured and relaxed in a hot water bath (which may contain a surfactant and a scouring agent). As equipment for scouring / relaxing processing, a U-type softer, an open soaper, a boil-off machine, a Jigger dyeing machine, a beam dyeing machine, or a spreading dyeing machine can be used. The temperature of the hot water bath is, for example, 75 ° C to 100.
The range of ℃ is preferred, more preferably 80 ℃ ~ 100
℃, most preferably 90 ℃ ~ 100 ℃, more preferably 95 ℃ ~ 100 ℃. Then, dry heat presetting is performed using a pin tenter. The temperature at that time is preferably 140 ° C. to 170 ° C., more preferably 145 ° C. to 170 ° C., and most preferably 150 ° C. to 170 ° C. from the viewpoint of the texture of processed fabric and the setting effect.

Next, except when the yarn-dyed yarn is used,
Dye using a jet dyeing machine. Dyeing temperature is 90-12
It is 0 ° C, preferably 90 to 100 ° C. The final set is performed by dry heat setting using a pin tenter, and the temperature at that time is preferably 150 ° C. to 170 ° C., more preferably 150 ° C. to 165 ° C. from the viewpoint of the texture of the processed fabric and the setting effect (residual shrinkage). ℃, most preferably 150 ℃
Perform at ~ 160 ° C.

[0031]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples. The evaluation method used in the present invention is as follows. (1) Intrinsic viscosity Intrinsic viscosity [η] (dl / g) is a value obtained based on the definition of the following equation. [Η] = lim (ηr-1) / C C → 0 In the formula, ηr is 35 ° C. of a diluted solution of polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn or polyethylene terephthalate yarn dissolved in an o-chlorophenol solvent having a purity of 98% or more. Is a value obtained by dividing the viscosity of the above by the viscosity of the above solvent measured at the same temperature, and is defined as the relative viscosity. C is g
/ 100 ml polymer concentration.

Since it is difficult to measure the intrinsic viscosities of the composite multifilaments using polymers having different intrinsic viscosities, it is possible to use the same conditions as the spinning conditions for the composite multifilaments.
The intrinsic viscosities measured by spinning the respective types of polymers individually and using the obtained yarns are taken as the intrinsic viscosities constituting the composite multifilaments.

(2) Initial tensile resistance: JIS L 10
13 In accordance with the initial tensile resistance test method of the chemical fiber filament yarn test method, 0.088 per unit fineness of the sample
A tensile test was performed by applying an initial load of 2 cN / dtex, and from the obtained load-elongation curve, the initial tensile resistance (cN / dt
ex) is calculated. The sample is arbitrarily sampled at 10 points and the average value of the measured values is obtained.

(3) Expansion / contraction rate and expansion / contraction elastic modulus: JIS
L 1090 Synthetic fiber filament Measurement is carried out according to the elasticity test method A of the bulked yarn test method, and the expansion / contraction elastic modulus (%) and elastic modulus (%) are calculated. The sample is arbitrarily sampled at 10 points and the average value of the measured values is obtained. The expansion and contraction elastic modulus and elastic expansion modulus of the actual crimps were obtained by unwinding the sample unwound from the winding package at a temperature of 20 ± 2 ° C and a relative humidity of 65 ±
The measurement is performed after standing for 24 hours in a 2% environment. As for the expansion / contraction expansion ratio and expansion / contraction elastic modulus after the hot water treatment, a sample obtained by immersing in hot water of 98 ° C. for 30 minutes under no load and then naturally drying for 24 hours under no load is used.

(4) Thermal shrinkage stress: Using a thermal stress measuring device (Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd., trade name KE-2),
Cut the sample to a length of 20 cm, connect both ends to form a ring, and load it into the measuring device. Initial load is 0.044 cN / dte.
x, the shrinkage stress is measured under the condition that the heating rate is 100 ° C./min,
100 from the change curve of the heat shrinkage stress with respect to the obtained temperature
Read the heat shrinkage stress at ° C.

[0036]

[Reference Example] Production of latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber Side-by-side composite multifilaments having different intrinsic viscosities were produced by the following Production Examples 1 to 4. (Production Example 1) Using a side-by-side type composite spinning spinneret, two types of polytrimethylene terephthalate having different intrinsic viscosities were extruded in a side-by-side type at a mass ratio of 1: 1 at a spinning temperature of 265 ° C and a spinning speed of 1500 m / min. An undrawn yarn was obtained. Next, the hot roll temperature is 55 ° C., the hot plate temperature is 140 ° C., the drawing speed is 400 m / min, the draw ratio is set so that the fineness after drawing is 56 dtex, and the yarn is twisted to form a 56 dtex / 12 f side-by-side composite multifilament. Obtained. The intrinsic viscosity of the obtained composite multifilament was 0.90 on the high viscosity side and 0.70 on the low viscosity side. Table 1 shows the initial tensile resistance, the expansion / contraction elastic modulus of the actual crimp, the elastic expansion / contraction elastic modulus after hot water treatment, and the thermal contraction stress at 100 ° C.

(Manufacturing Example 2) 84 in the same manner as in Manufacturing Example 1.
A side-by-side type composite multifilament of dtex / 12f was obtained. The intrinsic viscosity of the obtained composite multifilament was 0.88 on the high viscosity side and 0.70 on the low viscosity side. Initial tensile resistance, expansion / contraction elastic modulus / expansion / contraction elastic modulus of actual crimp, expansion / contraction elastic modulus / expansion / contraction elastic modulus after hot water treatment, and 1
Table 1 shows the heat shrinkage stress at 00 ° C.

(Manufacturing Example 3) 56 dtex / 12f side-by-side type composite multifilaments were obtained in the same manner as in Manufacturing Example 1 using two kinds of polytrimethylene terephthalate having different intrinsic viscosities from those in Manufacturing Example 1. The intrinsic viscosity of the obtained composite multifilament is 0.8 on the high viscosity side.
6, the low viscosity side was 0.69. Table 1 shows the initial tensile resistance, the expansion / contraction elastic modulus of the actual crimp, the elastic expansion / contraction elastic modulus after hot water treatment, and the thermal contraction stress at 100 ° C.

(Production Example 4) 56 dtex / 12 was prepared by using two kinds of polyethylene terephthalate having different intrinsic viscosities.
A side-by-side type composite multifilament of f was obtained. The intrinsic viscosity of the obtained composite multifilament was 0.66 on the high viscosity side and 0.50 on the low viscosity side. Table 1 shows the initial tensile resistance, the expansion / contraction elastic modulus of the actual crimp, the elastic expansion / contraction elastic modulus after hot water treatment, and the thermal contraction stress at 100 ° C.

[0040]

[Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1] 40 /-cotton spun yarn of cotton count was used as the warp, the composite filaments obtained in each production example were used as the weft, and weaving was performed in an air jet loom. I got the opportunity to have a flat organization. After scouring and relaxing the above-mentioned greige at 95 ° C with a liquid-flow relaxer, use a tenter to 170
After intermediate setting at 0 ° C, dyeing with a direct dye at 100 ° C was performed with a jet dyeing machine, and final setting was performed at 170 ° C. The cover factor CF (= warp CF + weft CF) of the obtained woven fabric is 2200, (warp CF / weft CF)
Was 2.0.

Example 1 uses the composite filament of Production Example 1, Example 2 uses the composite filament of Production Example 2, Example 3 uses the composite filament of Production Example 3, and Comparative Example. No. 1 uses the composite filament of Production Example 4. The woven fabrics of Examples 1 to 3 were Yangyanagi-like woven fabrics having a pongee-like appearance greatly different in taste from the conventionally known woven fabrics in which the yarn unevenness unique to spun yarn is fused to the Yangyanagi-like woven fabric. It was a fabric that was not much different from spun crepe.

[0042]

[Examples 4 to 5 and Comparative Example 2] In Example 1, (warp CF / weft CF) was 1.1 (Comparative Example 2), 1.5 (Example 4), 2.5 (Example 5). The procedure of Example 1 was repeated, except that The woven fabrics of Examples 4 to 5 were Yangyanagi woven fabrics having a pongee-like appearance greatly different from the conventionally known ones in which the yarn irregularity unique to the spun yarn was fused with the Yangyanagi tone, but Comparative Example 2 The woven fabric of Example 1 had a more wrinkled surface than the woven fabric of Comparative Example 1, but did not have a particularly large difference as compared with the conventionally known spun crepe.

[0043]

[Table 1]

[0044]

Industrial Applicability According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a Yangyanagi-like woven fabric having a pongee-like appearance in which a yarn irregularity unique to a spun yarn is fused.

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A Yangyanagi composed of latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber multifilament yarn in which the warp yarn is a spun yarn, the weft yarn is composed of two or more kinds of polyester components, and at least one component thereof is polytrimethylene terephthalate. A woven fabric, which has a warp cover factor (Warp C
F: and the cover factor (weft CF) of the weft (weft CF / weft CF) is 1.5 or more. Warp CF = Warp Density (Book / 2.54 cm) x Warp Fineness (dtex) ^0.5 Weft CF = Weft Density (Book / 2.54 cm) x Weft Fineness (dtex) ^0.5 2. The Yangyanagi-like woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the spun yarn used for the warp is a dyed yarn. 3. The Yangyanagi-like woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the weft is a latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber multifilament yarn satisfying the following (a) to (c). (A) Initial tensile resistance is 10 to 30 cN / dtex (b) Expansion and contraction elongation rate of the actual crimp is 10 to 100%, and
Stretching elastic modulus of the actual crimp is 80 to 100% (c) Thermal shrinkage stress at 100 ° C is 0.1 to 0.5c
N / dtex