JPH11100747A - Combined filament yarn woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a combined filament yarn woven fabric showing a feeling of peach skin, stretchability, rigidity, and repulsiveness and useful for a silky woven fabric, etc., by being formed of a each specific weft and warp. SOLUTION: In this combined filament yarn woven fabric having a cover factor of 1,500 to 3,500 wherein the warp is a polyester combined filament yarn contracted differently, the weft is a hard twist yarn having a twist multiplier of 10,000 to 30,000, and at least one component forming the combined filament yarn contracted differently is a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber. The difference in boiling water shrinkage between the fiber group with the highest heat shrinkage and that with the lowest heat shrinkage is pref. 10 to 25%.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a mixed fiber fabric,
Particularly, the present invention relates to a mixed-fiber woven fabric having a peach feeling, tightness, waist, and resilience.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Fabrics using polyester different shrinkage mixed yarns have gained popularity as so-called silky-like fabrics having a silky surface touch, elegant gloss and peach feeling. Shrink-blend yarn fabrics have the drawback of lacking tension, stiffness and resilience. As a method of improving this, for example, it is conceivable to make the different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn a strong twist yarn,
The use of a high-twisted yarn impairs the silky feeling, particularly the peach feeling, which is a characteristic of the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn.

[0003]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to improve the disadvantages and to provide a mixed-fiber woven fabric having peach feeling, tightness, stiffness and resilience.

[0004]

As a result of intensive studies, the present inventor has found that the use of a specific polyester fiber as a fiber constituting the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn and the combination with a strongly twisted yarn have alleviated such disadvantages. In particular, the inventors have found that a mixed-fiber woven fabric having peach feeling, tightness, stiffness, and resilience can be obtained, and the present invention has been achieved. That is, in the present invention, the warp is a polyester different shrinkage mixed yarn, and the weft has a twist coefficient of 10
A mixed fiber woven fabric having a cover factor of 1500 to 3500, which is a polyester strong twist yarn of 000 to 30,000,
A mixed fiber woven fabric characterized in that at least one component constituting the different shrinkage mixed fiber is a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber.

[0005] In the present invention, a different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn in which at least one component is a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, particularly preferably, has a twist coefficient (= twisted number x fineness of yarn) of 0
~ 4000, preferably 0 or 1500 to 4000
No twist yarn or sweet twist yarn is used for the warp, and the weft has a twist coefficient of 100.
00-30000, preferably 14000-2700
0, more preferably 17000-27000 polyester fiber, and the cover factor is 1500-150.
By forming a weft-twisted fabric of 3500, preferably 1700 to 2700, a fabric having both peach feeling, tension, stiffness and resilience can be obtained.

Here, the cover factor is represented by the following equation. Cover factor = warp density x 繊 warp fineness + weft density x √ weft fineness If the twist coefficient of the weft is less than 10,000, the crimping property is poor,
If it exceeds 30,000, double twisting and breakage will occur. Further, if the cover factor is less than 1500, so-called misalignment occurs due to slippage of the warp and the weft, and if it exceeds 3500, the hand becomes hard and the surface appearance and the hand of the weft-twisted fabric are impaired.

[0007] In the present invention, the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber comprises at least two kinds of fibers having different heat shrinkage rates, and has the highest heat shrinkage rate and the lowest heat shrinkage rate. The difference in the boiling water shrinkage rate from the fiber group (low shrinkage group) is 6
%, Preferably 10% to 25%, and the total boiling water shrinkage is 10% or more, preferably 15% or more.
In the range of ~ 35%. The feature of the present invention is that at least one component of the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber is composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, and is most suitable when the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is used in a low shrinkage group.

[0008] The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber in the present invention refers to a polyester fiber having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit, and the trimethylene terephthalate unit is at least about 50 mol%, preferably at least 70 mol%, more preferably at least 70 mol%. 80 mol% or more, particularly preferably 90 mol% or more. Therefore, the total amount of the other acid component and / or glycol component as the third component is about 50 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol%.
The polytrimethylene terephthalate contained in the range of 20 mol% or less, particularly preferably 10 mol% or less is included.

[0009] Polytrimethylene terephthalate is produced by combining terephthalic acid or a functional derivative thereof with trimethylene glycol or a functional derivative thereof in the presence of a catalyst under appropriate reaction conditions. In this production process, an appropriate one or two or more third components may be added to form a copolymerized polyester, or
Polytrimethylene terephthalate and other polyesters other than polytrimethylene terephthalate, such as polyester and nylon, and polytrimethylene terephthalate may be separately produced and then blended or composite-spun (sheath core, side-by-side, etc.).

The third components to be added include aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (oxalic acid, adipic acid, etc.), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid, etc.), aromatic dicarboxylic acids (isophthalic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, etc.). ), Aliphatic glycols (ethylene glycol, 1,2
-Propylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycols (cyclohexanediol, etc.), aromatic dioxy compounds (hydroquinone bisphenol A, etc.), aliphatic glycols containing aromatics (1,4
-Bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, etc.), polyether glycols (polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, etc.), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acids (ω
-Oxycaproic acid), aromatic oxycarboxylic acids (P
-Oxybenzoic acid, etc.). Also one or three
Compounds having more than one ester-forming functional group (such as benzoic acid or glycerin) can also be used in a range where the polymer is substantially linear.

The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber of the present invention further comprises a matting agent such as titanium dioxide, a stabilizer such as phosphoric acid, an ultraviolet absorber such as a hydroxybenzophenone derivative, a crystallization nucleating agent such as talc, and an aerosil or the like. Lubricant,
An antioxidant such as a hindered phenol derivative, a flame retardant, an antistatic agent, a pigment, a fluorescent whitening agent, an infrared absorber, an antifoaming agent and the like may be contained. Further, the form of the fiber may be uniform in the length direction or thick and thin, and the cross section may be round, triangular, L-shaped, T-shaped, Y-shaped, W-shaped, Yatsuha-shaped, flat, or dog. Polygonal types such as a bone type, a multi-leaf type, a hollow type and an irregular type may be used.

In the present invention, such a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is used as at least one component of the hetero-shrinkage mixed yarn. Other polyester fibers to be combined include polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber,
Polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polybutylene terephthalate fibers, and copolyesters obtained by copolymerizing these with the third component are listed. Particularly, as the high shrinkage group, copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate fibers are preferable.

As a method for producing such a polyester different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn, a so-called spinning method comprising spinning a low shrinkage group and a high shrinkage group from the same die as disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-13009, for example. Mixed fiber yarn, Tokiko Sho48
No. 25388, Japanese Patent Publication No. 55-22586,
JP-B-62-46656, JP-B-62-4938
There is a so-called post-blend yarn obtained by blending polyester multifilament yarns having different properties as exemplified in Japanese Patent Publication No. 0 in a post-spinning step such as a drawing and twisting step. The thickness of the polyester hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber of the present invention is 50 to 150.
d, preferably 75 to 120 d, and the mixed weight ratio of the low shrinkage group and the high shrinkage group is preferably 1: 3 to 3: 1.

Examples of the polyester fiber used for the weft include polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, polyethylene terephthalate fiber, polybutylene terephthalate fiber, and copolyesters obtained by copolymerizing these with the third component. Good, specifically refers to a polyester fiber having an ethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit, the ethylene terephthalate unit is about 50 mol% or more,
It is preferably at least 70 mol%, more preferably at least 80 mol%, particularly preferably at least 90 mol%.
Therefore, the total amount of the other acid component and / or glycol component as the third component is about 50 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, more preferably 20 mol% or less, and particularly preferably 10 mol% or less. Included polyethylene terephthalate contained.

In the process of synthesizing polyethylene terephthalate, one or more suitable third components may be added to form a copolymerized polyester, or a polyester other than polyethylene terephthalate, such as polytrimethylene terephthalate, or a nylon. Etc. and polyethylene terephthalate are manufactured separately and then blended,
Composite spinning (sheath core, side-by-side, etc.) may be used.

As the third component to be added, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (oxalic acid, adipic acid, etc.), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid, etc.), aromatic dicarboxylic acids (isophthalic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, etc.) ), Aliphatic glycols (1,3-propanediol,
1,2-propanediol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycol (cyclohexanediol, etc.), aromatic dioxy compound (hydroquinone bisphenol A, etc.), aromatic glycol containing aromatics (1,4
-Bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, etc.), polyether glycols (polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, etc.), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acids (ω
-Oxycaproic acid), aromatic oxycarboxylic acids (P
-Oxybenzoic acid, etc.). Also one or three
Compounds having more than one ester-forming functional group (such as benzoic acid or glycerin) can also be used as long as the polymer is substantially linear.

Further, polyethylene terephthalate fibers include a matting agent such as titanium dioxide, a stabilizer such as phosphoric acid, an ultraviolet absorber such as a hydroxybenzophenone derivative, a crystallization nucleating agent such as talc, a lubricating agent such as aerosil, and a hindered material. Antioxidants such as phenol derivatives, flame retardants, antistatic agents, pigments,
A fluorescent whitening agent, an infrared absorbing agent, an antifoaming agent and the like may be contained. In the present invention, for the spinning of polyethylene terephthalate fiber, a method in which an undrawn yarn is obtained at a winding speed of about 1500 m / min and then twisted at a rate of about 2 to 3.5 times, and a direct spinning-drawing step is directly performed. Rolling, winding speed 50
Any of the high-speed spinning methods (spin draw or spin take-up method) of 00 m / min or more may be adopted.

The form of the fiber may be uniform in the length direction or thick and thin, and the cross section may be round, triangular, L-shaped, T-shaped, Y-shaped, W-shaped, Yaba-shaped, It may be a polygonal type such as a flat type, a dogbone type, a multi-leaf type, a hollow type or an irregular type. Further, as the form of the yarn, multifilament raw yarn (including ultrafine yarn) having a single denier of about 0.1 to 5 denier, mixed fiber, false twisted yarn (including drawn false twisted yarn of POY), so-called Taslan processing Fluid jet processing yarns such as yarns. It should be noted that, within a range not impairing the object of the present invention, usually 30% by weight or less of other fibers are entangled and mixed with other fibers (different shrinkage mixed yarns with high shrinkage yarns), twisted, and composite false twist (stretched). It may be mixed by means such as double feed taslan processing.

Such a polyester fiber strongly twisted yarn is used for the weft, but yarns having different twisting coefficients may be arranged as desired, and may be appropriately selected according to the desired fabric appearance such as plain or striped. Well, for example, there are 1 alternate to 6 alternate (1: 1 to 6: 6), 1 alternate: 2 alternate, 1 alternate: 3 alternate, 1 alternate: 4 alternate, etc. The yarns having different twist directions, that is, the S twist yarn (S) and the Z twist yarn (Z) may be appropriately combined and arranged in consideration of the twist balance, for example, SZ, SSZZZ, S -Z-Z-
S and the like. Regarding the structure of the woven fabric, there are flat, twill, satin, and these changed structures, but a flat structure is particularly preferable.

In the finishing step, after weaving, scouring and relaxation are carried out in accordance with a conventional method, if necessary, an alkali weight reduction process of about 10 to 35% is performed, and then a graining process is performed in a dyeing process. So-called Yang willow processing. Furthermore, brushing such as so-called peach skin may be provided by, for example, emery paper, a brush, a needle cloth, or the like, and various finishing processes such as embossing and printing may be performed.
Further, a finishing agent such as a softening agent, a water repellent, or an antistatic agent may be used.

[0021]

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically with reference to examples and the like, but the present invention is not limited to these examples and the like. Incidentally, the boiling water shrinkage rate is JIS L-1095.
It was measured according to Method A. <Method of manufacturing different shrinkage mixed yarn> As a low shrinkage component yarn, ηsp
An undrawn yarn was obtained by spinning polytrimethylene terephthalate having a /c=0.8 at a spinning temperature of 265 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1200 m / min. Next, the undrawn yarn is heated to a hot roll temperature of 60.
C., a hot plate temperature of 140.degree. C., a draw ratio of 3 times and a drawing speed of 800 m / min. To obtain a drawn yarn of 25d / 12f. Strength, elongation, elastic modulus and 1 of the obtained drawn yarn
The elastic recovery rates at 0% elongation were 3.2 g / d and 46 g, respectively.
%, 30 g / d and 98%. The boiling water shrinkage was 11%.

The elastic recovery at 10% elongation was as follows: the sample was subjected to an initial load of 0.01 g / d and stretched at a constant rate of 20% elongation per minute to reach an elongation of 10%. By the way, on the contrary, it contracts at the same speed, and draws a stress-strain curve.
Assuming that the residual elongation when the stress is reduced to 0.01 g / d, which is equal to the initial load, during contraction is L, it is a value calculated by the following equation. Elastic recovery rate at 10% elongation = [(10−L) / 10] ×
100 (%) As a high shrinkage component yarn, intrinsic viscosity (η) = 0.75,
Polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing 2,2-bis {4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane with 10 mol of all glycol components is spun and 800 m / m
After winding at a speed of 25 minutes, heat stretching is performed, and 25 d / 12
As a result, a yarn (f) (boil water shrinkage 22%) was obtained. These yarns were interlaced and mixed to obtain a 50d / 24f hetero-shrink mixed yarn having 64 entanglements and a total boiling water shrinkage of 21%.

(Example 1) Twist of 250 T / m in the S-direction (twist coefficient =
1767), a different shrinkage mixed fiber consisting of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, and 75d / 36f
Of polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn of 2700 T / m in S and Z directions (twist coefficient = 233
Desin crepe was prepared by alternately using two strong twisted yarns subjected to 82). The woven fabric specification of the resulting decine crepe was such that the warp density was 160 yarns / inch and the weft yarn density was 83 yarns / inch. After performing scouring relaxation and presetting according to a conventional method, a 20% weight reduction process, followed by dyeing and finishing, a warp density of 191 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 112 yarns / inch; Obtained. The desin crepe has a silky texture, especially excellent peach feeling,
The fabric was full of tension, waist and resilience.

(Comparative Example 1) In Example 1, a 25d / 12f polyethylene terephthalate yarn (boiling water shrinkage 7%) was used as a low shrinkage component yarn instead of the different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber. The desine crepe produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that it was used had a silky texture, in particular, a peach feeling was impaired.

[0025]

According to the present invention, a mixed fiber woven fabric having peach feeling, tightness, stiffness and resilience can be obtained.

Claims (1)

[Claims] Claims: 1. A mixed fiber woven fabric having a cover factor of 1500 to 3500, wherein the warp is a polyester hetero-shrink mixed yarn and the weft is a polyester strong twist yarn having a twist coefficient of 10,000 to 30,000. A mixed fiber woven fabric, wherein at least one of the constituent components is a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber.