JPH1193036A - Weft-twisted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To prepare the subject fabric, having large and uniform crepes, and useful as a material for spring and summer clothes by using twistless or soft twist polytrimethylene terephthalate yarns as the warp and hard twist polytrimethylene terephthalate yarns as the weft. SOLUTION: This fabric, having a cover factor of 1,500 to 3,500 and large crepes of improved uniformity, and rich in coolness, is obtained by weaving polytrimethylene terephthalate yarns having a twist multiplier of 0 to 4,000 as the warp and polytrimethylene terephthalate yarns having a twist multiplier of 10,000 to 30,000 as the weft, and creping the fabric thus produced in the dyeing process.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

[0001] The present invention relates to a weft fabric.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Weft-twisted fabrics represented by dechin, palace, and chilimen are manufactured by using a non-twisted or sweet-twisted warp as a warp yarn, a strong twisted yarn as a weft yarn, and a crimping process in a dyeing process. It is often used as a material for spring and summer, especially because it has a refreshing feeling. However, recent market needs demand a material having a larger grain and a more uniform grain.

[0003]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a weft-twisted fabric which meets the above-mentioned market needs and has a large and uniform grain.

[0004]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventor has found that the use of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber in a weft twisted fabric can provide a grain form that meets such market needs, and has reached the present invention. That is, in the present invention, the warp is a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber having a twist coefficient of 0 to 4000, and the weft is a twist coefficient of 10,000 to 30,000.
A polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a cover factor of 1500 to 3500.

According to the present invention, the warp has a twist coefficient (= twist number × √fineness of yarn) of 0 to 4000, preferably 0 or 1500.
~ 4000 polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, and the weft has a twist coefficient of 10,000 to 30,000, preferably 14,000 to 27000, and more preferably 17000.
２７27000 polyethylene terephthalate fibers and a cover factor (= warp density x √ warp fineness + weft density x √ weft fineness) of 1500 to 3500, preferably 1700 to 2700, yields a textured weave. Which is large and has a more uniform grain.

If the twist coefficient of the warp exceeds 4000, the surface appearance and texture of the weft-twisted fabric represented by Desin differ.
On the other hand, if the twist coefficient of the weft is less than 10,000, the crimping property is inferior, and if it exceeds this, double twist or breakage occurs. Further, if the cover factor is less than 1500, so-called misalignment occurs due to slippage between the warp and the weft, and if it exceeds 3500, the hand becomes hard and the surface appearance and hand of the weft-twisted fabric are impaired.

In the present invention, the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber refers to a polyester fiber having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit, and the trimethylene terephthalate unit is at least about 50 mol%, preferably at least 70 mol%, and more preferably at least 70 mol%. 80 mol% or more, more preferably 90 mol% or more. Therefore,
As the third component, the total amount of the other acid component and / or glycol component is contained in a range of about 50 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, further 20 mol% or less, more preferably 10 mol% or less. Polytrimethylene terephthalate.

[0008] Polytrimethylene terephthalate is synthesized by combining terephthalic acid or a functional derivative thereof with trimethylene glycol or a functional derivative thereof in the presence of a catalyst under appropriate reaction conditions. In this synthesis process, an appropriate one or two or more third components may be added to form a copolymerized polyester, or
Polyester other than polytrimethylene terephthalate such as polyethylene terephthalate, nylon, and polytrimethylene terephthalate may be separately synthesized, blended, or composite-spun (sheath core, side-by-side, etc.).

As the third component to be added, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (oxalic acid, adipic acid, etc.), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid, etc.), aromatic dicarboxylic acids (isophthalic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, etc.) ), Aliphatic glycols (ethylene glycol, 1,2
-Propylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycols (cyclohexanediol, etc.), aromatic dioxy compounds (hydroquinone bisphenol A, etc.), aliphatic glycols containing aromatics (1,4
-Bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, etc.), polyether glycols (polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, etc.), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acids (ω
-Oxycaproic acid), aromatic oxycarboxylic acids (P
-Oxybenzoic acid, etc.). Also one or three
Compounds having more than one ester-forming functional group (such as benzoic acid or glycerin) can also be used as long as the polymer is substantially linear.

Further, matting agents such as titanium dioxide, stabilizers such as phosphoric acid, ultraviolet absorbers such as hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, crystallization nucleating agents such as talc, lubricating agents such as aerosil, and antioxidants such as hindered phenol derivatives. An oxidizing agent, a flame retardant, an antistatic agent, a pigment, a fluorescent brightener, an infrared absorber, an antifoaming agent, and the like may be contained. In the present invention, for the spinning of the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, for example, a method of obtaining an undrawn yarn at a winding speed of about 1500 m / min and then twisting it by about 2 to 3.5 times, spinning-drawing Either a direct drawing method in which the steps are directly connected or a high-speed spinning method (spin draw or spin take-up method) with a winding speed of 5000 m / min or more may be adopted.

The form of the fiber may be uniform in the length direction or thick and thin, and the cross section may be round, triangular, L-shaped, T-shaped, Y-shaped, W-shaped, Yaba-shaped, It may be a polygonal type such as a flat type, a dogbone type, a multi-leaf type, a hollow type or an irregular type. Further, as the form of the yarn, multifilament raw yarn (including ultrafine yarn) having a single denier of about 0.1 to 5 denier, mixed fiber, false twisted yarn (including drawn false twisted yarn of POY), so-called Taslan processing There is a fluid jet processing yarn such as a yarn.

Incidentally, within a range not to impair the object of the present invention,
Usually within the range of 30% by weight or less, other fibers are entangled and mixed with fibers (different shrinkage mixed fibers with high shrinkage yarns, etc.), twisted, composite false twists (elongation difference false twists, etc.), 2-feed tanran It may be mixed by means such as processing. Further, the polyethylene terephthalate fiber used for the weft refers to a polyester fiber having an ethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit, and the ethylene terephthalate unit is at least about 50 mol%, preferably at least 70 mol%, more preferably at least 80 mol%, and still more preferably. Means 90 mol% or more. Therefore, the total amount of the other acid component and / or glycol component as the third component is about 5%.
0 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, and more preferably 20 mol% or less.
It includes polyethylene terephthalate contained in an amount of not more than 10 mol%, more preferably not more than 10 mol%.

In the process of synthesizing polyethylene terephthalate, one or more suitable third components may be added to form a copolymerized polyester, or a polyester other than polyethylene terephthalate such as polytrimethylene terephthalate, or a nylon. And polyethylene terephthalate may be separately synthesized and then blended or composite-spun (sheath core, side-by-side, etc.).

The third components to be added include aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (oxalic acid, adipic acid, etc.), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid, etc.), and aromatic dicarboxylic acids (isophthalic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, etc.). ), Aliphatic glycols (1,3-propanediol,
1,2-propanediol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycol (cyclohexanediol, etc.), aromatic dioxy compound (hydroquinone bisphenol A, etc.), aromatic glycol containing aromatics (1,4
-Bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, etc.), polyether glycols (polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, etc.), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acids (ω
-Oxycaproic acid), aromatic oxycarboxylic acids (P
-Oxybenzoic acid, etc.). Also one or three
Compounds having more than one ester-forming functional group (such as benzoic acid or glycerin) can also be used as long as the polymer is substantially linear.

Furthermore, matting agents such as titanium dioxide, stabilizers such as phosphoric acid, ultraviolet absorbers such as hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, crystallization nucleating agents such as talc, lubricating agents such as aerosil, and antioxidants such as hindered phenol derivatives. An oxidizing agent, a flame retardant, an antistatic agent, a pigment, a fluorescent brightener, an infrared absorber, an antifoaming agent, and the like may be contained. In the present invention, for the spinning of polyethylene terephthalate fiber, for example, 1
After obtaining an undrawn yarn at a winding speed of about 500 m / min, 2
Any of a method of drawing and twisting at about 3.5 times, a direct drawing method in which a spinning-drawing step is directly connected, and a high-speed spinning method (spin draw or spin take-up method) with a winding speed of 5000 m / min or more are adopted. Is also good.

The form of the fiber may be uniform or thick in the longitudinal direction, and the cross section may be round, triangular, L-shaped, T-shaped, Y-shaped, W-shaped, Yaba-shaped, It may be a polygonal type such as a flat type, a dogbone type, a multi-leaf type, a hollow type or an irregular type. Further, as the form of the yarn, multifilament raw yarn (including ultrafine yarn) having a single denier of about 0.1 to 5 denier, mixed fiber, false twisted yarn (including drawn false twisted yarn of POY), so-called Taslan processing There is a fluid jet processing yarn such as a yarn.

Incidentally, within a range not to impair the object of the present invention,
Usually within the range of 30% by weight or less, other fibers are entangled and mixed with fibers (different shrinkage mixed fibers with high shrinkage yarns, etc.), twisted, composite false twists (elongation difference false twists, etc.), 2-feed tanran It may be mixed by means such as processing. Such a high twist yarn of polyethylene terephthalate fiber is used for the weft, but yarns having different twist coefficients may be arranged as desired, and may be appropriately selected according to the desired woven fabric appearance such as plain or striped, For example,
1 alternate to 6 alternate (1: 1 to 6: 6), 1 alternate: 2 alternate, 1 alternate: 3 alternate, 1 alternate: 4 alternate, etc. In consideration of the above, yarns having different twisting directions, that is, S twisted yarn (S) and Z twisted yarn (Z) may be appropriately combined and arranged, for example, SZ, SSZ.
-Z, SZZZS and the like.

The structure of the woven fabric includes flat, twill, satin and their changed structures, but a flat structure is particularly preferred. In the finishing step, after weaving, scouring and relaxation are performed according to a conventional method, alkali reduction processing of about 10 to 35% is performed as necessary, and then, graining processing is performed in the dyeing processing step. The so-called Yang willow processing may be performed by a press.

Further, for example, brushing such as so-called peach skin may be provided by emery paper, a brush, a needle cloth or the like, and other various finishing processes such as embossing and printing may be performed. Further, a finishing agent such as a softening agent, a water repellent, or an antistatic agent may be used.

[0020]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to only examples. In addition, the fiber used, the measuring method, etc. are as follows. <Method for producing polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber> ηsp
A polytrimethylene terephthalate having a /c=0.8 is obtained at a spinning temperature of 265 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1200 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn. Then, a hot roll temperature of 60 ° C., a hot plate temperature of 140 ° C., a draw ratio of 3 times, and a drawing speed It was twisted at 800 m / min to obtain drawn yarns of 75d / 36f and 50d / 36f.

The stretchability, elastic modulus and elastic recovery at 10% elongation of the drawn yarn are 3.2 g / d, 46% and 30 g, respectively.
/ D and 98%. The elastic recovery at 10% elongation was determined by applying an initial load of 0.01 g / d to the sample,
It is stretched at a constant rate of 0% elongation, and when the elongation reaches 10%, it is contracted again at the same rate, and the stress-
Draw a distortion curve. During shrinkage, stress is equal to initial load 0.01
When the residual elongation at the time of decreasing to g / d is L, it is calculated by the following equation.

Elastic recovery at 10% elongation = (10-L)
/ 10 × 100 (%)

[0023]

Example 1 A 50d / 36f non-twisted polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn was used for the warp yarn, and a 3000d / m (twist coefficient = 25980) in the Z and S directions was used for the 75d / 36f polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn for the weft yarn. Desin crepe was prepared by alternately using two twisted yarns (the warp density was 172 yarns / inch and the weft yarn density was 92 yarns / inch in the woven fabric standard).

After scouring relaxation and presetting were performed according to a conventional method, the weight was reduced by 20%, then dyed, and finished (warp density: 198 yarns / inch weft yarn density: 107 yarns / inch; cover factor was 2327). The grain of the obtained decine crepe was very large and uniform.

[0025]

Comparative Example 1 A 50d / 36f polyethylene terephthalate multifilament non-twisted yarn was used for the warp, and 7
A desine crepe was prepared using two 5d / 36f polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarns alternately twisted at 3000 T / m in the Z and S directions alternately.

The woven fabric specifications, weft twisting conditions, weaving conditions and dyeing and finishing conditions were the same as in Example 1. Comparative Example 1
The grain of the decyne crepe was smaller than that of Example 1 and was rough and uneven.

[0027]

Comparative Example 2 A 50d / 36f polyethylene terephthalate multifilament non-twisted yarn was used for the warp and 7
A desine crepe was prepared using two 5d / 36f polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarns alternately twisted in the Z and S directions at 3000 t / m.

The woven fabric specifications, weft twisting conditions, weaving conditions and dyeing finishing conditions were the same as in the examples. The grain of the desin crepe of Comparative Example 2 was smaller, rougher and more uneven than that of Example 1.

[0029]

Comparative Example 3 A 75d / 36f polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn was used for the warp yarn in the Z direction and the S direction for two.
An oriental crepe was prepared by alternately using two twisted yarns of 500 t / m and using a 75d / 36f polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament non-twisted yarn as a weft (the warp density was 88 yarns / woven fabric standard). Inch, the weft density is 70 yarns / inch).

After scouring relaxation and presetting were performed according to a conventional method, the weight was reduced by 20%, then dyed and finished (warp density: 95 / inch, weft density: 80 / inch; cover factor: 1516). ). The grain of the oriental crepe of Comparative Example 3 was smaller, rougher and more uneven than that of Example 1.

[0031]

The weft-twisted fabric of the present invention has an excellent effect that the grain is larger and has a more uniform grain than the conventional one.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A warp yarn comprising a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber having a twist coefficient of 0 to 4000, and a weft yarn comprising a twist coefficient of 10,000 to 4,000.
A weft-twisted fabric comprising 30,000 polyethylene terephthalate fibers having a cover factor of 1500-3500.