JP2009079335A - High-shrinkage false-twisted polyester yarn, woven/knitted fabric using the same, and method for producing high-shrinkage false-twisted polyester yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a high-shrinkage false-twisted polyester yarn capable of producing a woven/knitted fabric excellent in puffiness, soft touch, resilience and density, for developed application to clothes. <P>SOLUTION: The high-shrinkage false-twisted polyester yarn satisfies the following characteristics simultaneously: (1) 40≤boiling water shrinkage[SHW](%); (2) dry heat shrinkage[SHD](%) after subjected to boiling water shrinkage treatment≤2; (3) 10≤degree of entanglement per m[CF value]; (4) 25≤elongation percentage(%)≤60; and (5) 5≤crimping percentage[CR](%)≤25. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2009,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention is excellent in swelling, soft feeling, resilience, and denseness, and can provide a highly shrinkable polyester false twist yarn capable of providing a woven or knitted fabric that can be developed for clothing, a method for producing the same, and the highly shrinkable polyester temporary yarn. The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric using twisted yarn.

  Conventional high-shrinkage polyester yarns use high-shrinkage polyesters copolymerized with isophthalic acid or bisphenol-A ethylene oxide adducts, or those that are not subjected to heat setting when stretching homopolyester fibers. It is common to use.

  However, since the former is a copolyester, it alone increases the cost. In some cases, the strength and light resistance of the fiber are inferior, and depending on the amount of copolymerization, the shrinkage is excessively advanced at a high temperature, leading to rough curing of the fabric. There was a problem.

  The latter is a highly oriented undrawn yarn spun at 1500 to 4000 m / min to suppress crystallization by low temperature drawing (see Patent Document 1). There was a problem that shrinkage spots and thick spots were excessive, and a high-quality fabric could not be obtained.

  In addition, another patent document discloses a technique in which a high shrinkage yarn with less yarn unevenness can be obtained by defining various parameters (see Patent Document 2). However, with this technique, the amount of yarn unevenness can be reduced to about 35%, and there is a limit to increasing the density of the fabric.

  Furthermore, when a highly oriented undrawn yarn is drawn and twisted from room temperature to the glass transition temperature, the polyester-based latent resin having a boiling water shrinkage of 50% or more is forcibly twisted between the twister and the supply roller. A technique for obtaining a crimped yarn is disclosed (see Patent Document 3).

  However, in this technique, it is impossible to suppress shrinkage variation due to twisted spots, and crimps are latent, so there is also variation in the expression of crimps when made into a fabric, and the surface quality applied to clothes is improved. There were cases where it was not possible. In addition, filaments that are not crimped, such as latently crimped yarns and raw yarns, have a form in which the filaments are arranged in a straight line after shrinking, which tends to cause choke marks and poor friction fastness. there were.

Furthermore, the reason why the conventional high-shrinkage false twist yarn has not been developed for clothing until now is one of the reasons that the high-shrinkage false twist yarn is weak in thermal characteristics. That is, if heat is applied by sizing or twisted steam set in the woven fabric preparation process, the high shrinkage property applied to the fabric is inhibited. Therefore, in order to use the main yarn for the warp of the woven fabric, it is a condition that sizing and twisting steam set are not necessary, but there are no other means to suppress the generated fluff and talmi (sizing and medium strong twist). So, until now, it has not been able to be applied to clothing fabrics.
JP 58-180670 A JP 2000-248425 A JP-A-2-210034

  The present invention solves various problems that conventional high-shrinkage yarns could not be used alone for woven or knitted fabrics for clothing, in particular for woven fabrics for clothing, and is excellent in swelling, soft feeling, rebound feeling, and surface quality and friction characteristics. The present invention provides a highly shrinkable polyester false twisted yarn, a method for producing the same, and the like for forming an excellent fabric.

  The above object is achieved by a highly shrinkable polyester false twisted yarn that simultaneously satisfies the following characteristics.

That is, it is a highly shrinkable polyester false twist yarn that simultaneously satisfies the following characteristics.
(1) 40 ≦ Boiling water shrinkage [SHW] (%)
(2) Dry heat shrinkage after boiling water shrinkage [SHD] (%) ≦ 2
(3) Entanglement degree per 10 m [CF value]
(4) 25 ≦ Elongation (%) ≦ 60
(5) 5 ≦ crimp expression rate [CR] (%) ≦ 25
Moreover, the manufacturing method of the highly shrinkable polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention described above is that the highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn is drawn false twisted at 70 ° C. or lower and the false twist number K is 1500 (T / m) or higher to give entanglement. This is a method for producing a highly shrinkable polyester false twisted yarn.

  The present invention solves various problems that conventional high-shrinkage yarns could not be used alone for woven or knitted fabrics for clothing, especially woven fabrics for clothing, and is excellent in swelling, soft feeling, rebound feeling, and surface quality and friction characteristics. Can be obtained.

  The fibers obtained by the present invention are suitably used for women's clothing such as blouses, suits, pants, dresses, coats, and sports clothing such as jerseys, athletic wear, and ski wear.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

  In the present invention, the highly shrinkable false twisted yarn is a false twisted yarn that exhibits sufficient shrinkage properties during the dyeing step, and indicates the following boiling water shrinkage rate.

  In the present invention, the boiling water shrinkage (SHW) needs to be 40 ≦ SHW (%) in order to give a dense feeling to the fabric. This is because when SHW (%) <40, the shrinkage is insufficient, and it is difficult to obtain a dense fabric. Further, SHW (%) ≦ 65 is preferable. It is difficult with the current technology to stably obtain SHW (%)> 65, and by setting SHW (%) ≦ 65, it is possible to suppress the occurrence of shrinkage spots on the fabric due to excessive shrinkage. be able to. More preferably, 45 ≦ SHW (%) ≦ 60. The boiling water shrinkage (SHW) is a value measured by the measurement method described in the item A in the column of Examples described later.

  Further, in order to obtain a fabric having a high level of soft feeling and resilience, it is necessary to prevent the cloth from being coarsely cured by removing the fabric restraint with a dry heat intermediate set after scouring the fabric. For that purpose, it is necessary that the dry heat shrinkage ratio (SHD) of the highly shrinkable polyester false twisted yarn after boiling water shrinkage is SHD (%) ≦ 2. That is, it is essential that the yarn hardly shrinks when subjected to a hot heat treatment after hot water shrinkage. Moreover, it is preferably −10 ≦ SHD (%), and by setting this range, the dry heat setting property can be kept good. In consideration of dimensional stability, more preferably, −6 ≦ SHD (%) ≦ 2. The dry heat shrinkage (SHD) after boiling water shrinkage refers to a value measured by the measurement method described in Section B in the column of Examples described later.

  In addition, as a result of diligent research to solve the problem of fluff generation and shrinkage variation, which has been a hindrance to the development of high-shrinkage yarns in the past, and the problem of passing through the textile process, the present inventors have found that the yarn has a certain degree of It has been found that it is effective to give a crimp of 1 and a converged yarn form.

  That is, the crimp expression rate CR (%) which is an index of crimp is 5 ≦ CR (%) ≦ 25, the entanglement CF value per meter which is an entanglement index is 10 ≦ CF value, and 25 ≦ elongation ( %) ≦ 60.

  In order to prevent the occurrence of shrinkage variations, it is important to disperse the yarn spots by simultaneous false twist drawing on the highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY) and to absorb the yarn spots by crimping. It was found that when 5 ≦ CR (%) ≦ 25, the crimp disperses the yarn spots, and at the same time, the crimp can provide voids between the single yarn filaments, thereby improving the friction resistance.

  When CR (%) <5, shrinkage variation occurs, and further, after the yarn is shrunk, the filaments are arranged in a straight line and the friction fastness is also deteriorated. Further, if CR (%)> 25, the crimp is too strong, and it becomes difficult to make the yarn converge. Furthermore, in consideration of mass productivity, it is necessary to twist and steam set for use in the warp of a woven fabric, and the high shrinkage characteristics are hindered. From these things, it is more preferable that it is 7 <= CR (%) <= 25, since a swelling feeling and stretch property can be provided to a fabric. In addition, crimp expression rate (CR) says the value measured by the measuring method described in E term of the column of the Example mentioned later.

  In addition, the yarn having a CF value of 10 ≦ CF value and 25 ≦ elongation (%) ≦ 60, which is an index of the degree of entanglement, is made to converge so that almost no fluff is generated while there is crimp. Is possible. By converging the yarn, it is possible to develop the use of a woven warp with no twist or after a low twist of 1000 T / m or less and with a low temperature dry heat set. Furthermore, the resistance at the time of fabric shrinkage is relaxed, and the high shrinkage can be further enhanced.

  Here, when the CF value <10 or the elongation (%) <25, the yarn is in an open state, and fluff and tarmi are liable to occur. Moreover, in order to use it for the warp of a textile fabric, it is necessary to twist and set in a steam, and the high shrinkage property is hindered. Further, if the elongation (%)> 60, thread sink marks occur during weaving, which causes a problem in surface quality.

  The CF value is preferably CF value ≦ 80. If the CF value is greater than 80, entanglement unevenness becomes noticeable on the fabric, and should be avoided if possible.

  In addition, the elongation is a value measured by the measurement method described in the item D in the column of the example described later, and the entanglement degree per 1 m (CF value) is the measurement method described in the item C of the column of the example described later. The value measured by.

  The high-shrinkage polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention may have a single fiber having a uniform cross section in the length direction or a thin one having a round shape, a triangular shape, a flat shape, a hexagonal shape, an L shape, a T shape, Polygonal types such as W type, Yaba type, and dogbone type, various types, and hollow types can be arbitrarily selected. In the case of the irregular shape, the touch becomes point contact, which is preferable because it increases dry feeling and tingling feeling.

  If the high shrinkage polyester false twist yarn of the present invention is in the yarn stage and the total fineness is in the range of 20 to 350 dtex, it is preferable because it can provide a feeling of fineness and softness suitable for clothing. More preferably, the total fineness is 30 to 200 dtex.

  Moreover, you may add the titanium oxide used as a matting agent, the silica as a lubricant, an alumina microparticle, a dyeing pigment, etc. as needed. One of the characteristics of the highly shrinkable polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention is that it has a low crystallinity and a high color developability. By adding silica or alumina fine particles to the polymer, woven or knitted fabric with higher color developability can be obtained by dropping from the fiber surface after reducing the alkali and generating microvoids. In addition, when titanium oxide is contained in a large amount, the color developability deteriorates and there is a problem that it cannot be applied to black clothes. However, even if titanium oxide is contained in the highly shrinkable polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention, the color developability is good. Further, it is possible to provide a woven or knitted fabric that satisfies both of the white anti-penetration property, which is one of the purposes containing titanium oxide, and the black color developability, and enables various color developments.

  Further, the single fiber fineness of the highly shrinkable polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, and a fine fiber of about 0.7 dtex to a thick fiber of about 15 dtex can be appropriately employed as necessary. From the viewpoint of obtaining a soft feeling, it is naturally preferable that the single fiber fineness is narrow.

  In addition, it is preferable to use a split fiber having a single fiber fineness of 0.2 dtex or less after splitting with an alkali treatment because a soft and excellent fabric can be obtained. Any type of split fiber may be used, and sea-island fiber or mandarin fiber may be used.

  The high-shrinkage polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention is preferably mixed with a low-shrinkage polyester fiber, and even when used as a shrinkage-difference mixed yarn, a fabric excellent in swelling and soft feeling can be obtained. Although it does not specifically limit as a fiber to mix, If a low shrinkable polyester fiber of SHW <= 5%, sufficient swelling feeling will be obtained. Moreover, if the single fiber fineness of the fiber to mix is 3 dtex or less, and the total fineness is below the fineness of a highly shrinkable polyester fiber, a soft texture can be emphasized and it is preferable. In this case, any fiber blending method such as air blending, combined twisting, and composite false twisting may be used. However, in order to fully exhibit the shrinkage characteristics of the high shrinkage polyester fiber, air blending with less yarn constraint is used. Fiber is preferred.

  Next, the manufacturing method of the high shrinkage polyester false twist yarn of this invention is demonstrated.

  The manufacturing method of the high shrinkage polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention is characterized in that a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY) is drawn false twisted at 70 ° C. or less and entangled.

  The polyester as referred to in the present invention is mainly composed of terephthalic acid and at least one selected from ethylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, cyclohexane-1,4-dimethanol, pentamethylene glycol, and hexamethylene glycol. It is polyester which makes a seed the main glycol component, and 40% mol or less of 3rd components may be copolymerized. Preferred copolymer components include dibasic acids such as adipic acid, sebacic acid, isophthalic acid, diphenyldicarboxylic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, oxyacids such as oxybenzoic acid, and diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol glycols, Examples include 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 2,2bis {4- <2-hydroxyethoxy> phenyl} propane. A polyester obtained by copolymerizing one or two or more of these copolymer components is preferably used.

  The highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY) to be used preferably has an elongation of 100% or more and 300% or less. That it is 100% or more is a state in which the stretched crystallization of the highly oriented undrawn yarn has not progressed. By using a highly oriented undrawn yarn having an elongation of 100% or more in the production method of the present invention, the SHW (%) of the false twisted yarn can be made 40% or more. In addition, the elongation of 300% or less means that the orientation of the non-crystalline part has progressed and there are nuclei that can become crystal parts. If there are nuclei that can become crystal parts, the crystal parts grow by high-temperature dry heat at 160 ° C., and spontaneous elongation occurs. By using the highly oriented undrawn yarn having an elongation of 300% or less in the production method of the present invention, the SHD (%) of the false twisted yarn can be made 2% or less.

  In the method of false twisting while stretching, a commonly used stretching false twisting machine can be used sufficiently. In the present invention, the temperature of the fiber can be drawn and twisted at a glass transition temperature (Tg) of 70 ° C. or less, thereby preventing thermal crystallization of the yarn and controlling SHW (%) to 40% or more. It becomes possible to do. In general, when the false twisting temperature is low, the processing tension is higher than that of a normal hot-drawn false twist, and a necking phenomenon is likely to occur between single fibers, and fluff and tarmi are likely to occur. As a result of intensive studies on this problem, the present inventors have found that it is effective to lower the false twist draw ratio and set the processed yarn elongation to be 25% or more. As a result, the processing tension was lowered, and the yarn was converged. As a result, the fluff and the tarmi disappeared, and the woven fabric could be developed into the warp.

  Moreover, it is preferable to perform false twisting at a temperature 20 ° C. or more lower than Tg because it is possible to completely prevent thermal crystallization of the yarn and to obtain higher shrinkage characteristics.

  FIG. 1 is a process schematic diagram for illustrating the production process of the highly shrinkable polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 1, the supply yarn A is stably supplied to the heating medium C using a feed roller B. At this time, the heating medium C may be used for heating at 70 ° C. or lower, or false twisting may be performed at room temperature. As the heating medium C, a known medium for false twisting may be appropriately used. Specific examples of the contact heating medium include a hot plate heated by electric heating or a circulating heating medium. Moreover, you may use the slit heater which is a non-contact-type heating medium.

  The running yarn heated while being twisted is then cooled by the cooling medium D and passes through a false twist rotor E for giving false twist. The false twisting rotor E may be a spinner pin that directly gives twisted yarn, or may be a friction disk or belt nip that indirectly gives twisted yarn.

  Further, in order to obtain a crimp expression rate of 5% or more, it is important to set the false twist number K to 1,500 (T / m) or more. If K <1,500, the yarn cannot be crimped.

  In order to sufficiently impart the crimp of the yarn, K ≧ 2000 is preferable. If K> 4000, yarn breakage during false twisting is likely to occur, which is not preferable.

  In addition, if the yarn processing speed is fast, the productivity becomes high, which is preferable. However, in consideration of the stable false twist property, 100 to 700 (m / min) is preferable.

  The traveling yarn is untwisted after passing through the false twisting rotor E, and is entangled or mixed using a nozzle G installed between the stretching roller F and the relaxing roller H. By providing the entanglement, the yarn can be converged. As the nozzle G, an interlace nozzle or a compressed air nozzle typified by a Taslan nozzle can be used without particular limitation, but an interlace nozzle is preferable for obtaining a converged yarn form.

  In addition, the confounding pressure is set to 0.15 (MPa), so that the CF value can be 10 or more. On the other hand, if it is 0.7 (MPa) or more, fabric entanglement unevenness will be noticeable, which is not preferable.

  In addition, the entanglement overfeed can be controlled to 10 or more by setting it to 0.5 (%) or more. Further, if it is 5% or more, yarn blurring is likely to occur before the entangled nozzle, which is not preferable.

  Finally, it is wound into a package I.

Further, the high shrinkage polyester false twist yarn of the present invention is preferably used at a twist coefficient of 10,000 or less in order to obtain a sufficient swell feeling in the fabric. However,
Twist factor = T x (fineness) 1/2
T: Number of twists per meter (turns / m)
Fineness: Decitex × 0.9
It is.

  If the twist coefficient is 10,000 or less, the false twisted yarn of the present invention can be used for warp of a woven fabric in a low temperature dry heat set. The low temperature dry heat set here is a temperature range of 40 to 55 ° C. It is preferable to carry out heat setting for 12 hours or more in this temperature range, since it is possible to reliably prevent the innermost layer of the twisted yarn package.

  In the present invention, the woven fabric and the knitted fabric are collectively referred to as “woven fabric”. When the highly shrinkable polyester false-twisted yarn of the present invention is made into a woven fabric, there is no restriction on the structure and density, but a 1/3 twill or satin structure with many floats is preferable. Also, when the highly shrinkable polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention is made into a knitted fabric, there is no restriction on the structure and density at all, but a tentacle and smooth structure with less knitting constraints are preferred.

  Furthermore, even when a woven or knitted fabric using the high-shrinkage polyester false twist yarn of the present invention is dyed and finished, there is no restriction on the processing method and processing apparatus, but the occurrence of shrinkage wrinkles due to rapid shrinkage is avoided. For this reason, it is preferable to implement a softening process that can be relaxed and scoured in an expanded form. When the softener device has two baths, the first stage temperature is preferably set to 60 to 75 ° C., and the second stage temperature is set to 90 to 98 ° C., which is more preferable.

  Moreover, since there exists a characteristic which expands spontaneously by high-temperature dry heat at the time of an intermediate set, the 5-15% elongation setting slightly higher than a normal textile is preferable.

By using the high-shrinkage polyester false twisted yarn of the present invention to make a woven or knitted fabric, various problems that conventional high-shrinkage yarns could not be used alone for woven and knitted fabrics for clothing, especially woven fabrics for clothing, were swelled. In addition, it is possible to form a fabric excellent in softness and rebound, and having excellent surface quality and friction characteristics.
Moreover, when the highly shrinkable polyester false twist yarn of the present invention is used for warp or weft, stretchability can be imparted to the woven fabric due to the crimp-up effect caused by crimping and stretching after dry heat. If the stretch ratio in the direction used is 5% or more, a comfortable stretch property can be imparted to the fabric while having a high density.

  The fibers obtained by the present invention are suitably used for women's clothing such as blouses, suits, pants, dresses, coats, and sports clothing such as jerseys, athletic wear, and ski wear.

  Hereinafter, the highly shrinkable polyester false twist yarn of the present invention and the production method thereof will be described in detail with reference to examples. In addition, the physical property in an Example was calculated | required with the following method.

A. Boiling water shrinkage [SHW]
The thread is wound 10 times under a tension of 0.8 mg / dtex on a measuring machine with a circumference of 0.8 m, and left for 10 minutes. After that, the length (L) is measured under a load of 0.09 cN / dtex. To do. Then, this casserole is wrapped with gauze, hydrothermally treated at 98 ° C. for 20 minutes under no load, suspended on a rod of 2 cm or less and left for about 12 hours, and then the casserole length (L1 under a load of 0.09 cN / dtex). ) Was measured and calculated by the following formula, this operation was repeated 5 times, and the average value was obtained.
Boiling water shrinkage [SHW] (%) = (L−L1) / L × 100
B. Dry heat shrinkage after boiling water shrinkage [SHD]
Using the cassette after the boiling water shrinkage measurement of the above item A, it is treated for 15 minutes in a load-free state at a dry heat of 160 ° C., and the sag length (L2) under a load of 0.09 cN / dtex is measured. This operation was repeated 5 times, and the average value was obtained.
Dry heat shrinkage after boiling water shrinkage [SHD] (%) = (L1−L2) / L × 100
C. Degree of confounding per meter [CF value]
The degree of entanglement is the number of entangled parts per meter under a tension of 0.1 g / d. A pin is inserted into the non-entangled part under a tension of 0.02 g / d, and 0.1 g / d over 1 m of yarn. The pin is moved up and down in the longitudinal direction of the yarn by the tension of d, and the distance moved with the portion moved without resistance as the unentangled portion is recorded, and the portion where the pin stops is taken as the entangled portion. This operation is repeated 5 times, and the degree of entanglement per meter is calculated from the average value (n = 5) of the distance of the unentangled part.

D. Elongation Measured based on JIS L 1013.

E. Crimp incidence [CR]
The thread is wound 10 times on a measuring machine having a circumference of 0.8 m under a tension of 90 mg / dtex, and then hanged on a rod of 2 cm or less and left for about 24 hours. This casserole is wrapped in gauze, hydrothermally treated at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes under no tension, and then suspended on a rod of 2 cm or less and left for about 12 hours. After leaving the cassette, one end of the cassette is hooked and the other end is subjected to initial load and measurement load. Initial load (g) at this time = 1.8 mg / dtex, measurement load (g) = 90 mg / dtex, water temperature = 20 ± 2 ° C. Measure the length of the inside of the left casket and let it be L. Further, the test piece is left for 2 minutes under the condition of only the initial load excluding the measurement load, and the length of the inside of the left case is measured to be L1. The expression rate of crimp under load was obtained by the following formula, this operation was repeated 5 times, and the average value was obtained.
Crimp expression [CR] (%) = {(L−L1) / L} × 100
F. Permeability The transmittance of five 5 cm × 5 cm woven fabric samples was measured using Minolta CM-3600d, and the average value was evaluated (n = 5).
○○: Transmittance less than 10% ○: Transmittance 10-20%
X: Transmittance 20% or more.

G. Black color developability L * described in JIS Z 8729 (color display method-L * a * b * color system and L * u * v * color system) is obtained as an L value representing deep color, The operation was repeated 5 times, and the average value was obtained. The L value is smaller as the color is darker, and the value is greater as the color is lighter. As a colorimeter, CM-3600d manufactured by Minolta was used. The light source was D65 and the viewing angle was 2 °. A commercially available black dye is used as the dye at that time, and after dyeing at 135 ° C., reduction cleaning (80 ° C., 20 minutes) is performed.

H. Friction fastness According to the method defined in JIS L 0849 (Dye Fastness Test Method for Friction), it was tested when dry and wet. In each case, this operation was repeated 5 times, and the average value was obtained.

  A Gakushin shape was used for the friction tester, and a gray scale for contamination was used for the class judgment.

I. Texture evaluation, surface quality evaluation The texture evaluation of denseness, swelling, softness, rebound, and uniformity of surface quality were evaluated by a five-step evaluation method by five experts.
○○: Excellent ○: Good Δ: Acceptable ×: Impossible

J. et al. Stretch ratio Measured by the elongation ratio A method (constant speed elongation method) of JIS L 1096.

Examples 1-6
As the supply yarn, polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn with a fineness of 90dtex containing 1% by weight of titanium oxide, 96 filaments, 150% elongation, friction pin false twisting machine (Aiki Seisakusho TH312MKII) Then, false twisting was performed by the method described in Table 1, and then interlace entanglement treatment (entanglement nozzle: QCII manufactured by Toray Precision Co., Ltd.) was performed. In Examples 1 to 4, and 6, friction false twisting using a urethane disk was performed, and in Example 5, pin false twisting was performed using a pin having a diameter of 2 mm.

  In Example 2, a contact type dowsum heater having a heater length of 1.5 m was used.

  Next, the false twisted yarn thus obtained was subjected to additional twisting with a twisting coefficient (K) = 5000 in the S direction using a double twister twisting machine manufactured by Murata Co., Ltd., and then 45 ° C. × 24 A dry heat twist set for hours was performed. The obtained twisted yarn was used as a warp, and a non-twisted yarn was used as a weft. A warp density: 140 / 2.54 cm, a weft density: 110 / 2.54 cm, and a plain woven fabric was prepared. Next, the obtained woven fabric was subjected to softer relaxation scouring treatment (first stage 60 ° C., second stage 98 ° C.) according to a conventional method, followed by drying with a spread dryer and intermediate setting. The intermediate setting conditions were a temperature of 180 ° C., a work cloth speed of 2 m / min, and a tentering ratio of 9.5%. Thereafter, it was immersed in a 3% aqueous solution of caustic soda, subjected to a 20% alkali weight reduction process, dyed with a commercially available black dye at 135 ° C., then subjected to reduction cleaning (80 ° C., 20 minutes), washed with water and dried. . Finally, a finishing set was performed at 180 ° C.

  The finished density of the resulting woven fabric was high, and it had a fine texture, bulge, softness and resilience, and had stretch properties. The surface quality and friction fastness were also good results. The results are shown in Table 1.

Example 7
As the supply yarn, a polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn having a fineness of 90 dtex, a filament number of 48 filaments, and an elongation of 150% containing 1% by weight of colloidal silica fine particles having an average primary particle diameter of 0.05 μm is used. Made a yarn by the method described in Table 1 in the same manner as in Example 1 and evaluated the fabric.

  The finished density of the resulting woven fabric was high, and it had a fine texture, bulge, softness and resilience, stretchability, and excellent black color development. The surface quality and friction fastness were also good results. The results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Examples 1 and 4
In the same manner as in Example 1, a false twisted yarn was prototyped under the conditions described in Table 1, and the fabric was evaluated. During the trial production of false twisted yarn, yarn breakage due to fluff frequently occurred. When weaving, the yarn breakage stops frequently and the surface quality of the resulting fabric was poor.

Comparative Example 2
In the same manner as in Example 2, a false twisted yarn was prototyped under the conditions described in Table 1, and the fabric was evaluated. The resulting woven fabric lacked a sense of denseness, and lacked a feeling of swelling and rebound.

Comparative Example 3
In the same manner as in Example 5, a false twisted yarn was prototyped under the conditions described in Table 1, and the fabric was evaluated. The resulting woven fabric had a feeling of compactness, but had almost no crimp, so it was weak against friction and a chalk mark was generated as soon as the surface was rubbed. The fastness to friction was also unacceptable.

Comparative Example 5
In the same manner as in Example 1, a false twisted yarn was prototyped under the conditions described in Table 1, and the fabric was evaluated. The resulting woven fabric had a feeling of compactness, but there were problems in surface quality due to frequent occurrence of twisted pirn sinks and weaving locomotive sinks, which are thought to be due to high processing yarn elongation.

  The high-shrinkage polyester false twist yarn of the present invention is particularly suitable for women's clothing and sports clothing, and is useful as a raw yarn for blouse, suit, pants, dress, coat, jersey, athletic wear, and ski wear.

FIG. 1 is a process schematic diagram for illustrating the production process of the high-shrinkage polyester false twist yarn of the present invention.

Explanation of symbols

A: Supply yarn B: Feed roller C: Heating medium D: Cooling medium E: False twisting rotor F: Stretching roller G: Nozzle H: Relaxing roller I: Package

Claims (4)

A highly shrinkable polyester false twist yarn that satisfies the following characteristics at the same time.
(1) 40 ≦ Boiling water shrinkage [SHW] (%)
(2) Dry heat shrinkage after boiling water shrinkage [SHD] (%) ≦ 2
(3) Entanglement degree per 10 m [CF value]
(4) 25 ≦ Elongation (%) ≦ 60
(5) 5 ≦ crimp expression rate [CR] (%) ≦ 25   A woven or knitted fabric comprising the highly shrinkable polyester false twist yarn according to claim 1.   A woven fabric characterized by using the highly shrinkable polyester false twisted yarn according to claim 1 as warp or weft and having a stretch ratio in the yarn direction using the highly shrinkable polyester false twisted yarn of 5% or more.   It is a manufacturing method of the highly shrinkable polyester false twisted yarn of Claim 1, Comprising: Polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn is drawn false twisted at 70 degrees C or less and false twist number K is 1500 (T / m) or more, and entanglement is carried out. A method for producing a highly shrinkable polyester false-twist yarn, characterized by comprising:

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