JP4467813B2 - Permeable stretch fabric - Google Patents
Permeable stretch fabric Download PDFInfo
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- JP4467813B2 JP4467813B2 JP2001035781A JP2001035781A JP4467813B2 JP 4467813 B2 JP4467813 B2 JP 4467813B2 JP 2001035781 A JP2001035781 A JP 2001035781A JP 2001035781 A JP2001035781 A JP 2001035781A JP 4467813 B2 JP4467813 B2 JP 4467813B2
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Description
【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、衣料用として有用な、透過性に優れた伸縮織物に関する。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
最近の衣料用途において、伸縮織物に対する需要が増大している。その需要に応じるために、仮撚加工や複合紡糸による捲縮糸を用いた伸縮織物、ポリウレタン等の弾性繊維を用いた伸縮織物等が製品化されている。
しかし、前者は染色の均一性や織物の薄地化などに難点があり、後者は弾性繊維の変色や脆化という問題がある。
【0003】
また、透過性のある織物として、ガーゼのような織物があるが、粗い密度で製織されているため目ズレしやすいという問題がある。
【0004】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は、薄地、軽量で、透過性に優れた伸縮織物を提供することを目的とする。
【0005】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明者は、前記課題を解決するために鋭意検討した結果、弾性繊維を非弾性繊維で被覆した複合弾性糸を用い、特に、高い撚りを施して被覆した細い複合弾性糸を用いて粗い密度の織物設計とすることにより、高い透過性と審美性を兼ね備えた薄地の伸縮織物が得られることを見出した。さらに、繊度、撚数、カバーファクター等を適切に設定することにより、スリップ、カール、目むき、目曲がり、密度斑、ビリ付き、シボ立ち等の欠点が無く、寸法変化の少ない伸縮織物が得られることを見出した。
【0006】
本発明は、上記のような知見に基づいてなされたものである。
すなわち、本発明は下記の通りである。
1.弾性繊維を非弾性繊維で被覆した複合弾性糸を経糸及び/又は緯糸に用い、該複合弾性糸の繊度が15〜55dtexであり、波長領域が380〜800nmの可視光線の分光透過率の平均値が65%以上であることを特徴とする透過性伸縮織物。
【0007】
2.複合弾性糸の撚係数が4000〜8000であり、カバーファクターが900〜2800であることを特徴とする上記1記載の透過性伸縮織物。
3.弾性繊維が型止まり性の良いポリウレタンウレア弾性繊維であり、該ポリウレタンウレア弾性繊維を0.5〜35wt%含有することを特徴とする請求項1又は2記載の透過性伸縮織物。
【0008】
以下、本発明につき詳述する。
本発明において、弾性繊維としては、特に限定されるものではないが、融点160〜240℃、伸度200〜900%の弾性繊維が好ましい。例えば、ポリウレタン、ポリウレタンウレア、ポリエーテルエステル、ゴム系の弾性繊維が挙げられ、なかでもポリウレタンウレア弾性繊維が特に好ましい。
【0009】
非弾性繊維としては、ポリアミド(以下、ナイロンという)、ポリエステル等の長繊維マルチフィラメントを用いることができ、その繊度は10〜50dtexが好ましい。酸化チタン等の艶消し剤を含有するセミダル糸、フルダル糸でもよく、また、収縮率差、糸長方向に繊度斑のあるシックアンドシン糸、及びこれらの捲縮糸(仮撚加工糸、摩擦加工糸、ニット・デニット等)やインターレース加工糸でもよい。
【0010】
単糸の断面形状は、特に限定されるものではなく、例えば、丸、三角、多角、中空、分割タイプ断面、あるいは自発捲縮複合断面などでもよい。
複合弾性糸は、上記の弾性繊維を非弾性繊維で被覆したもので、被覆する方法としては、シングルカバリング、ダブルカバリングが好ましいが、交撚、エアー交絡により追撚を施すことも出来る。伸縮織物の薄地、軽量化および透過性の観点から、複合弾性糸の繊度は15〜55dtexが好ましく、17〜41dtexがさらに好ましい。
【0011】
非弾性繊維による弾性繊維の被覆が不十分であると、複合弾性糸の目ムキが生じ、黄変や織物のシボ立ちが顕著になって、外観を損ねる傾向がある。また、被覆が過度であると、伸長率や伸長回復率が低下したり、解撚力が強くなり過ぎて製織時にビリ付きを生じて、製織時の作業性や効率が低下する傾向がある。
上記のような点に鑑み、適切な被覆を達成するためには、複合弾性糸の撚り係数が4000〜8000であることが好ましく、6600〜7800がさらに好ましい。この範囲であると、複合弾性糸の目ムキが無く、シボ立ち、スリップ、目曲がり、カール等の無い、伸長性、伸長回復性に優れた織物が得られる。
【0012】
本発明において、複合弾性糸の撚りとは、弾性繊維を非弾性繊維で被覆する時に生ずる撚りを言う。複合弾性糸の撚り係数は下記式で表される。
K=T×d1/2
式中、Kは複合弾性糸の撚り係数、Tは複合弾性糸の撚数(T/m)、dは複合弾性糸の繊度(dtex)を表す。
【0013】
カールの無い織物を得るためには、撚り方向として、S撚り、Z撚りの複合弾性糸を、経・緯とも1本交互に配列することが好ましい。非弾性糸と交織する場合も、例えば、非−S弾−非−Z弾、非−非−S弾−Z弾(非は非弾性糸、弾は複合弾性糸、SはS撚り、ZはZ撚り、を表す)のように、S撚り、Z撚りのバランスを考慮して配列することが好ましい。
【0014】
本発明においては、織物の用途に応じて、複合弾性糸を緯糸のみに、又は経糸のみに、あるいは経糸及び緯糸に用いることができる。また、織物中における弾性繊維の含有量は0.5〜35%であることが好ましい。
織物の伸長率は、着用時のフィット性や動きやすさの点から、1.5%以上であればよく、上限としては50%程度であればよい。
【0015】
織組織は、特に限定されないが、平織物が好ましく、かつ、下記式で表されるカバーファクターが900〜2800であることが好ましく、1400〜1850がさらに好ましい。このような織物は、密度斑、目曲がり、スリップ、カール等の欠点が無く、寸法変化も少なく、透過性に優れている。
カバーファクター=N1(D1)1/2 +N2(D2)1/2
式中、N1は経糸密度(本/2.54cm)、N2は緯糸密度(本/2.54cm)、D1は経糸の繊度(dtex)、D2は緯糸の繊度(dtex)を表す。
【0016】
本発明の織物は、波長領域が380〜800nmの可視光線の分光透過率の平均値が65%以上である。この値は、織物の強度、目ズレ等の実用上の問題がない限り高いほうが良い。65%以上であると、軽量かつ薄地で、審美性に優れた織物となる。
織物の加工は、通常の染色加工法を適用することができ、必要により、エンボス、プリント、ラミネート等の加工や、柔軟剤、撥水剤、制電剤等による仕上げ加工を行うことも出来る。
【0017】
本発明の透過性伸縮織物として、好ましい態様の例は、弾性繊維として型止まり性の良いポリウレタンウレア弾性繊維を用い、該ポリウレタンウレア弾性繊維を0.5〜35wt%含有する織物である。
型止まり性の良いポリウレタンウレア弾性繊維とは、熱セット率が40〜75%、耐熱強力保持率が45%以上のポリウレタンウレア弾性繊維である。なお、熱セット率の測定法は次の通りである。初期長5cmの試験糸を、100%伸長下で120℃の加圧蒸気雰囲気下に15秒置いた後、120℃の乾燥機内で30秒間乾燥させ、50℃の雰囲気下で1時間放縮させる。さらに20℃、65%RH雰囲気下で16時間放置後、糸長L(cm)及び強力を測定する。
【0018】
熱セット率(%)は下記式にて算出する。
熱セット率(%)={(L−5)/5}×100
また、耐熱強力保持率(%)は、{(熱処理後の強力)/(熱処理前の強力)}×100にて算出する。
上記のようなポリウレタンウレア弾性繊維は、型止まり性が良く、熱セット性が良いので、複合弾性糸として用いた場合、織密度の粗い織物でも、密度斑、寸法の不揃い、シボ、カール等の発生が無く、寸法安定性が良い。また、該ポリウレタンウレア弾性繊維を0.5〜35wt%含有する織物は、所望の密度あるいは寸法にセットする場合、比較的低温で短時間のセットが可能であるため、黄変や脆化を生じることが無く、織物の張り、腰、パワー、ストレッチ性が保持されるので、審美性、伸長回復性の優れた伸縮織物が得られる。
【0019】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下、実施例により本発明をさらに説明する。
なお、測定方法及び評価方法等は下記の通りである。
(1)織物の伸長率
JIS−L−1080 B法(定荷重法)に準拠した。
【0020】
(2)分光透過率
島津製作所製の自記分光光度計(UV−2200、積分球ISR−2200)により、スリット幅5nm、照射波長380〜800nm領域の分光透過率を測定する。
(3)スリップ
スリップとは、織物の表面又は裏面に加わる摩擦等の物理作用によって、織物の経糸又は緯糸の交差する位置が部分的にずれたり片寄ったりする状態をいう。
【0021】
JIS−L−1096B(縫い目滑脱)に準拠して測定した。
10cm×17cmの試験片を経方向および緯方向に5枚ずつ採取し、該試験片を中表にして長さの半分に折り、折り目を切断し、切断端から1cmのところを、次の条件(a)〜(d)に従って縫い合わせる。
(a)縫目形式:本縫い、(b)縫い目:5目/cm、(c)縫糸の種類及び番手:ポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント縫糸の84dtex×3本、(d)ミシン針の種類及び番手:普通針11。
【0022】
引張試験機を用いて、つかみ間隔7.62cm、引張速度30cm/分で、49Nの荷重を与えた。次いで、試験片をつかみから取り外し、1時間放置後、縫目付近のたるみが消える程度の荷重(0.49N/2.54cm)を縫目に直角方向に加え、縫目の滑りの最大孔の大きさを0.1mmの単位まで測定する。5回の測定値の平均値を求める。経方向又は緯方向の値のうち、大きい方の値をスリップ(mm)とした。
【0023】
(4)カール
織物から10cm×10cmの試験片を3枚採取し、平らなアクリル樹脂板の上に1時間放置して、試験片の切断端の反り返り具合を目視により観察し、下記の基準で評価した。
○:全く反り返りがなくフラットな状態、△:試験片の切断端が持ち上がり反り返る状態、×:試験片の切断端が反り返り丸まった状態。
【0024】
(5)シボ立ち
織物の表面を目視により観察し、下記の基準で評価した。
○:織物表面がフラットである、△:織物表面にシボ立ちが認められる、×:シボ立ちが目立つ。
〔実施例1〕
22dtexのポリウレタンウレア弾性繊維(ロイカBX;旭化成(株)の商標)を、ドラフト率3.33で、12dtex/7fのナイロン66糸にてS撚り1800T/m、Z撚り1800T/mで被覆し、撚り方向の異なる2種類の複合弾性糸を得た。得られた複合弾性糸の繊度と撚り係数を表1に示す。
【0025】
経糸として33dtex/12f、S撚り3100T/mのポリエチレンテレフタレート糸を用い、緯糸として上記の複合弾性糸を用いて、S撚り、Z撚りを1本交互に配列し、ウォータージェットルームにより、密度が経110本/2.54cm、緯96本/2.54cmの生機を得た。次いで、常法により仕上加工を施し、密度が経176本/2.54cm、緯98本/2.54cm、カバーファクター1433のジョーゼット組織の織物を得た。
【0026】
織物中のポリウレタンウレア弾性繊維の含有量は8.5wt%であった。
得られた織物は、表1に示すように、優れた透過性伸縮織物であった。
〔実施例2〕
複合弾性糸として、実施例1で用いたのと同様の弾性繊維を、ドラフト率2.8で、33dtex/24fのポリエチレンテレフタレート糸にてS撚り1200T/m、Z撚り1200T/mで被覆したこと、経糸として33dtexのポリエチレンテレフタレート扁平糸を用いたこと、レピア織機を用い、かつ表1に示す条件にしたこと以外は、実施例1と同様にして製織、仕上げを行い平織組織の織物を得た。織物中のポリウレタンウレア弾性繊維の含有量は8.0wt%であった。結果を表1に示す。
【0027】
〔実施例3〕
複合弾性糸として、実施例1で用いたのと同様の弾性繊維を、ドラフト率2.8で、11dtex/7fのナイロン66糸にてS撚り1600T/m、Z撚り1600T/mで被覆したこと、経糸として33dtex/26fのナイロン66糸を用いたこと、レピア織機を用い、かつ表1に示す条件にしたこと以外は、実施例1と同様にして製織、仕上げを行い平織組織の織物を得た。織物中のポリウレタンウレア弾性繊維の含有量は10.5wt%であった。結果を表1に示す。
【0028】
〔比較例1〕
複合弾性糸として、22dtexのポリウレタン弾性繊維(ロイカ;旭化成(株)の商標)を、ドラフト率2.5で、56dtex/96fのナイロン66糸にてS撚り900T/mで被覆し、表1に示す複合弾性糸を得た。
経糸として44dtex/34fのナイロン66糸を用い、緯糸として上記の複合弾性糸を用いて、ウォータージェットルームにより、密度が経177本/2.54cm、緯118本/2.54cmの生機を得た。次いで、常法により仕上加工を施し、密度が経195本/2.54cm、緯125本/2.54cm、カバーファクター2299の平織組織の織物を得た。織物中のポリウレタン弾性繊維の含有量は6.5wt%であった。
【0029】
得られた織物は、表1に示すように、カールが目立ち、シボ立ちがあり、透過性の劣る織物であった。
【0030】
【表1】
【0031】
【発明の効果】
本発明の伸縮織物は、薄地、軽量で、光の透過性に優れていると共に、審美性をも兼ね備えているので、衣料用の素材として有用である。例えば、本発明の伸縮織物に透湿防水膜をラミネートすることにより軽量のレインウエアとすることができ、また、他の素材とボンディングすることにより軽量の防寒具とすることができる。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a stretchable fabric excellent in permeability that is useful for clothing.
[0002]
[Prior art]
In recent apparel applications, the demand for stretch fabrics is increasing. In order to meet the demand, stretchable fabrics using crimped yarns by false twisting and composite spinning, stretchable fabrics using elastic fibers such as polyurethane, and the like have been commercialized.
However, the former has difficulties in dyeing uniformity and fabric thinning, and the latter has problems of discoloration and embrittlement of elastic fibers.
[0003]
In addition, as a permeable woven fabric, there is a woven fabric such as gauze, but there is a problem that misalignment tends to occur because it is woven at a coarse density.
[0004]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to provide a stretch fabric that is thin, lightweight, and has excellent permeability.
[0005]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventor has used a composite elastic yarn in which an elastic fiber is coated with an inelastic fiber, and in particular, has a coarse density using a thin composite elastic yarn coated with a high twist. The present inventors have found that a thin stretch fabric having both high permeability and aesthetics can be obtained by adopting the above fabric design. In addition, by appropriately setting the fineness, number of twists, cover factor, etc., there are no defects such as slip, curl, creaking, curling, density spots, wrinkles, and wrinkles, and an elastic fabric with little dimensional change can be obtained. I found out that
[0006]
The present invention has been made based on the above findings.
That is, the present invention is as follows.
1. An average value of the spectral transmittance of visible light having a composite elastic yarn having a fineness of 15 to 55 dtex and a wavelength region of 380 to 800 nm, using a composite elastic yarn in which an elastic fiber is coated with an inelastic fiber as a warp and / or a weft. Is a permeable stretch fabric, characterized in that is 65% or more.
[0007]
2. 2. The permeable stretch fabric according to 1 above, wherein the composite elastic yarn has a twist coefficient of 4000 to 8000 and a cover factor of 900 to 2800.
3. The permeable stretch fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the elastic fiber is a polyurethane urea elastic fiber having good mold-resisting properties and contains 0.5 to 35 wt% of the polyurethane urea elastic fiber.
[0008]
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
In the present invention, the elastic fiber is not particularly limited, but an elastic fiber having a melting point of 160 to 240 ° C. and an elongation of 200 to 900% is preferable. Examples thereof include polyurethane, polyurethane urea, polyether ester, and rubber-based elastic fibers. Among these, polyurethane urea elastic fibers are particularly preferable.
[0009]
As the inelastic fiber, a long fiber multifilament such as polyamide (hereinafter referred to as nylon) or polyester can be used, and the fineness thereof is preferably 10 to 50 dtex. Semi-dal yarns and full-dal yarns containing matting agents such as titanium oxide may be used. Also, shrinkage difference, thick and thin yarns with fineness in the yarn length direction, and these crimped yarns (false twisted yarn, friction yarn) Processed yarn, knit / denit etc.) and interlaced yarn.
[0010]
The cross-sectional shape of the single yarn is not particularly limited, and may be, for example, a circle, a triangle, a polygon, a hollow, a divided type cross section, or a spontaneous crimped composite cross section.
The composite elastic yarn is obtained by coating the above-described elastic fiber with a non-elastic fiber. The covering method is preferably single-covering or double-covering, but can be additionally twisted by entanglement or air entanglement. From the viewpoint of thin fabric, light weight and permeability of the stretchable fabric, the fineness of the composite elastic yarn is preferably 15 to 55 dtex, and more preferably 17 to 41 dtex.
[0011]
If the coating of the elastic fiber with the non-elastic fiber is insufficient, the composite elastic yarn will be loosened and the yellowing and the texture will become prominent and the appearance tends to be impaired. Further, if the coating is excessive, the elongation rate and the elongation recovery rate are reduced, or the untwisting force becomes too strong, causing the brittleness at the time of weaving, and the workability and efficiency at the time of weaving tend to be lowered.
In view of the above points, in order to achieve appropriate coating, the twist coefficient of the composite elastic yarn is preferably 4000 to 8000, and more preferably 6600 to 7800. Within this range, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric excellent in extensibility and elongation recovery, having no unevenness of the composite elastic yarn, free from embossing, slipping, bending, curling and the like.
[0012]
In the present invention, the twist of the composite elastic yarn refers to a twist generated when the elastic fiber is coated with the non-elastic fiber. The twist coefficient of the composite elastic yarn is represented by the following formula.
K = T × d 1/2
In the formula, K represents the twist coefficient of the composite elastic yarn, T represents the number of twists of the composite elastic yarn (T / m), and d represents the fineness (dtex) of the composite elastic yarn.
[0013]
In order to obtain a curl-free woven fabric, it is preferable to arrange one S-twisted and Z-twisted composite elastic yarns alternately in the warp and the weft as the twist direction. In the case of interweaving with non-elastic yarn, for example, non-S bullet-non-Z bullet, non-non-S bullet-Z bullet (non-nonelastic yarn, bullet is composite elastic yarn, S is S twist, Z is It is preferable to arrange in consideration of the balance of S twist and Z twist.
[0014]
In the present invention, the composite elastic yarn can be used only for the weft, only for the warp, or for the warp and the weft depending on the use of the fabric. Moreover, it is preferable that content of the elastic fiber in a textile fabric is 0.5 to 35%.
The stretch rate of the woven fabric may be 1.5% or more from the viewpoint of fit at the time of wearing and ease of movement, and the upper limit may be about 50%.
[0015]
The woven structure is not particularly limited, but a plain woven fabric is preferable, and a cover factor represented by the following formula is preferably 900 to 2800, and more preferably 1400 to 1850. Such a woven fabric has no defects such as density spots, bends, slips and curls, has little dimensional change, and has excellent permeability.
Cover factor = N 1 (D 1 ) 1/2 + N 2 (D 2 ) 1/2
In the formula, N 1 represents the warp density (line / 2.54 cm), N 2 represents the weft density (line / 2.54 cm), D 1 represents the fineness (dtex) of the warp, and D 2 represents the fineness (dtex) of the weft. .
[0016]
The fabric of the present invention has an average value of spectral transmittance of visible light having a wavelength region of 380 to 800 nm of 65% or more. This value should be higher as long as there are no practical problems such as fabric strength and misalignment. When it is 65% or more, the fabric is light and thin, and has excellent aesthetics.
For the processing of the woven fabric, a normal dyeing method can be applied. If necessary, processing such as embossing, printing, laminating, finishing processing with a softener, a water repellent, an antistatic agent, and the like can be performed.
[0017]
An example of a preferred embodiment of the permeable stretch fabric of the present invention is a fabric containing polyurethane urea elastic fibers having a good mold-stopping property as elastic fibers and containing 0.5 to 35 wt% of the polyurethane urea elastic fibers.
Polyurethane urea elastic fibers having good mold-stopping properties are polyurethane urea elastic fibers having a heat set rate of 40 to 75% and a heat resistant and strength retention of 45% or more. In addition, the measuring method of a heat set rate is as follows. A test yarn having an initial length of 5 cm is placed in a pressurized steam atmosphere at 120 ° C. under 100% elongation for 15 seconds, dried in a 120 ° C. dryer for 30 seconds, and then allowed to shrink in an atmosphere at 50 ° C. for 1 hour. . Further, after standing for 16 hours in an atmosphere of 20 ° C. and 65% RH, the yarn length L (cm) and the strength are measured.
[0018]
The heat set rate (%) is calculated by the following formula.
Heat set rate (%) = {(L-5) / 5} × 100
The heat resistant strength retention rate (%) is calculated by {(strength after heat treatment) / (strength before heat treatment)} × 100.
Polyurethane urea elastic fibers as described above have good mold-stopping properties and good heat-setting properties, so when used as a composite elastic yarn, even with a woven fabric with a coarse woven density, density unevenness, uneven dimensions, wrinkles, curls, etc. There is no occurrence and dimensional stability is good. In addition, the woven fabric containing 0.5 to 35 wt% of the polyurethane urea elastic fiber can be set at a desired density or size and can be set at a relatively low temperature for a short time, thus causing yellowing and embrittlement. Since the tension, waist, power and stretchability of the fabric are maintained, a stretchable fabric excellent in aesthetics and stretch recovery properties can be obtained.
[0019]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the present invention will be further described by examples.
Measurement methods and evaluation methods are as follows.
(1) Elongation rate of woven fabric This was based on the JIS-L-1080 B method (constant load method).
[0020]
(2) Spectral transmittance Spectral transmittance of a slit width of 5 nm and an irradiation wavelength of 380 to 800 nm is measured with a self-recording spectrophotometer (UV-2200, integrating sphere ISR-2200) manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation.
(3) Slip slip refers to a state in which the warp or weft crossing position of the fabric is partially displaced or offset by physical action such as friction applied to the front or back surface of the fabric.
[0021]
The measurement was performed according to JIS-L-1096B (seam slippage).
Take 10 cm x 17 cm test pieces in the warp direction and the weft direction, fold the test pieces in half on the inside, cut the crease, and place 1 cm from the cut end under the following conditions: Sewing is performed according to (a) to (d).
(A) Stitch type: main stitch, (b) stitch: 5 stitches / cm, (c) type and count of sewing thread: 84 dtex × 3 pieces of polyethylene terephthalate filament sewing thread, (d) type and count of sewing needle: normal Needle 11;
[0022]
Using a tensile tester, a load of 49 N was applied at a gripping interval of 7.62 cm and a tensile speed of 30 cm / min. Then, after removing the test piece from the grip and leaving it to stand for 1 hour, a load (0.49 N / 2.54 cm) is applied in a direction perpendicular to the seam so that the slack near the seam disappears. Measure the size to the unit of 0.1 mm. An average value of five measurement values is obtained. Of the values in the warp direction or the weft direction, the larger value was defined as slip (mm).
[0023]
(4) Three test pieces of 10 cm × 10 cm were taken from the curled fabric, left on a flat acrylic resin plate for 1 hour, and visually observed for the curvature of the cut end of the test piece. evaluated.
◯: Flat state with no warping, Δ: State where the cut end of the test piece is lifted and warped, and X: State where the cut end of the test piece is warped and curled.
[0024]
(5) The surface of the textured fabric was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
○: The surface of the fabric is flat, Δ: Standing on the surface of the fabric is observed, and X: Standing on the surface is conspicuous.
[Example 1]
22 dtex polyurethane urea elastic fiber (Roika BX; trade name of Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) is coated with 12 dtex / 7f nylon 66 yarn with S twist of 1800 T / m and Z twist of 1800 T / m at a draft rate of 3.33. Two types of composite elastic yarns having different twist directions were obtained. Table 1 shows the fineness and twist coefficient of the obtained composite elastic yarn.
[0025]
Using 33 dtex / 12f and S twist 3100 T / m polyethylene terephthalate yarn as the warp, using the above composite elastic yarn as the weft, one S twist and one Z twist are alternately arranged. 110 / 2.54 cm and 96 / 2.54 cm raw machines were obtained. Subsequently, finishing was performed by a conventional method to obtain a woven fabric with a georgette structure having a density of 176 yarns / 2.54 cm, 98 wefts / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 1433.
[0026]
The content of polyurethane urea elastic fiber in the woven fabric was 8.5 wt%.
As shown in Table 1, the obtained woven fabric was an excellent permeable stretch fabric.
[Example 2]
As a composite elastic yarn, an elastic fiber similar to that used in Example 1 was covered with a polyethylene terephthalate yarn of 33 dtex / 24f at a draft rate of 2.8 with an S twist of 1200 T / m and a Z twist of 1200 T / m. Weaving and finishing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a 33 dtex polyethylene terephthalate flat yarn was used as the warp, a rapier loom was used, and the conditions shown in Table 1 were used to obtain a plain weave fabric. . The polyurethane urea elastic fiber content in the woven fabric was 8.0 wt%. The results are shown in Table 1.
[0027]
Example 3
As a composite elastic yarn, the same elastic fiber as used in Example 1 was coated with 11 dtex / 7f nylon 66 yarn at a draft rate of 2.8 with S twist of 1600 T / m and Z twist of 1600 T / m. Weaving and finishing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 33 dtex / 26f nylon 66 yarn was used as the warp, a rapier loom was used, and the conditions shown in Table 1 were used to obtain a plain weave fabric. It was. The content of polyurethaneurea elastic fiber in the woven fabric was 10.5 wt%. The results are shown in Table 1.
[0028]
[Comparative Example 1]
As a composite elastic yarn, 22 dtex polyurethane elastic fiber (Roika; trademark of Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) was coated with nylon 66 yarn of 56 dtex / 96f at a draft rate of 2.5 and S twist of 900 T / m. The composite elastic yarn shown was obtained.
Using a nylon 66 yarn of 44 dtex / 34f as the warp and the above composite elastic yarn as the weft, a water jet loom yielded a raw machine having a density of warp 177 / 2.54 cm and weft 118 / 2.54 cm. . Next, finishing was performed by a conventional method to obtain a plain weave woven fabric having a density of 195 warps / 2.54 cm, 125 wefts / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 2299. The content of polyurethane elastic fiber in the woven fabric was 6.5 wt%.
[0029]
As shown in Table 1, the obtained woven fabric was a woven fabric with curling conspicuous, textured and inferior in permeability.
[0030]
[Table 1]
[0031]
【The invention's effect】
The stretchable fabric of the present invention is useful as a material for clothing because it is thin, lightweight, excellent in light transmission and aesthetic. For example, a lightweight rainwear can be obtained by laminating a moisture-permeable waterproof film on the stretchable fabric of the present invention, and a lightweight cold protection device can be obtained by bonding with other materials.
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JPWO2011152059A1 (en) * | 2010-06-02 | 2013-07-25 | セーレン株式会社 | Textiles and clothing |
CN102965790B (en) * | 2011-08-30 | 2014-12-17 | 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 | Light and thin fabric and production method thereof |
CN103276496A (en) * | 2013-05-23 | 2013-09-04 | 海安县联发弘佳纺织有限公司 | Quick-drying fabric |
CN105648637A (en) * | 2016-04-13 | 2016-06-08 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | Pure aloe fiber warp and weft double-elasticity yarn-dyed fabric and production technology thereof |
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JP2000160452A (en) * | 1998-12-01 | 2000-06-13 | Toray Ind Inc | Polyester woven fabric and its production |
JP2000234235A (en) * | 1999-02-10 | 2000-08-29 | Toray Ind Inc | Twisted fabric |
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