JP6621999B2 - Stretch silky fabric - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a stretch silky woven fabric having an appropriate stretchability and having excellent silky touch texture, drape and resilience.

  As a filament constituting a stretch woven fabric, a filament imparted with a pseudo stretch property by fixing a filament of a synthetic fiber in a crimp shape or a wave shape is known. A physical or chemical method can be used to impart stretchability to the filament, and a processing method using a false twisting machine is generally known. A woven fabric composed only of such filaments does not have sufficient stretchability, and stretch fatigue is great when used repeatedly.

  On the other hand, in recent years, the functionality or comfort of the stretch fabric has been particularly emphasized. For example, in a stretch fabric used for sports clothing, spandex fibers containing polyurethane as a component are used. Spandex fibers are close to rubber and very stretchable, so they are suitable for swimwear, sportswear or pantyhose worn close to the human body, but for clothing applications (for example, women's blouse) ), The stretchability is too strong, so it is rarely used alone. For example, such a spandex fiber is used as a core yarn of a composite yarn, and this core yarn is used as a composite processed yarn obtained by coating other fibers as a sheath yarn. There are many cases.

  For example, Patent Document 1 describes an entangled elastic yarn obtained by fluid entanglement of a non-elastic fiber yarn to a core-sheath structure elastic yarn composed of an elastic yarn as a core yarn and an inelastic filament yarn as a sheath yarn. Yes. Further, in Patent Document 2, a polyurethane fiber having a total fineness of 78 dtex or less is used as a core yarn, and a covering yarn obtained by covering the core yarn with a synthetic fiber having a total fineness of 44 dtex or less as a sheath yarn is used. A high density fabric with a modified texture is described. The woven fabric described in Patent Document 2 is lightweight, has sufficient strength, and has high stretchability.

  Patent Document 3 describes a stretch fabric composed of a coated yarn obtained by covering a spandex fiber having a total fineness of 55 to 156 dtex as a core yarn and covering the core yarn with a synthetic fiber as a sheath yarn. Yes. The woven fabric described in Patent Document 3 is lightweight and has high extensibility.

Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 04-011036 International Publication No. 2011-152059 JP2011-256383A

  However, although the entangled elastic yarn described in Patent Document 1 has stretchability, it is not intended for silky touch texture, and drape or resilience is insufficient.

  Although the woven fabric described in Patent Document 2 is excellent in stretchability, the total fineness of the synthetic fibers forming the sheath yarn in the coated yarn is thin, so that the core-sheath form at the time of covering becomes unstable and the stretchability is strong. Therefore, it is not comfortable to wear as clothing, and the texture of the synthetic fiber cannot be expressed sufficiently. In addition, it is not intended for silky touch texture, and drape or resilience is insufficient.

  In the stretch fabric described in Patent Document 3, the spandex fiber forming the core yarn in the coated yarn has a high fineness, so that the stretchability is too strong and an excessively strong tightening force appears. Therefore, although it is suitable for swimwear or sportswear, it cannot be said that it is suitable for the clothing field due to poor comfort. Furthermore, it is not intended for silky touch texture, and drape or resilience is insufficient.

  The present invention eliminates such disadvantages of the prior art, has stretchability suitable for clothing use (that is, moderate and not too strong), and has excellent silky touch texture, drape and resilience. An object is to provide a silky fabric.

  The inventors of the present invention have intensively studied to solve the above problems. As a result, a coated yarn comprising an elastic yarn having a fineness as a core yarn and a crimped yarn as a sheath yarn having a specific cross-sectional shape with a finer fineness than the elastic yarn and having a specific cross-sectional shape is obtained as a constituent fiber. The fabric is caused by the protrusions formed by the alkali weight reduction treatment, so that the appropriate frictional resistance acts between the constituent yarns so that the stretchability is not too strong, the moderate stretchability and the excellent silky touch texture, It has been found for the first time that it is possible to express drape and resilience and is excellent in comfort when used for clothing, and the present invention has been completed. That is, the gist of the present invention is the following (1) to (7).

(1) The coated yarn formed by coating the crimped yarn as the sheath yarn with respect to the elastic yarn as the core yarn is a stretch silky fabric disposed on the warp and the weft, and the crimped yarn is Protrusions are formed on the surface of the single yarn by alkali weight loss treatment,
The total fineness of the crimped yarn is 1.0 to 4.8 times the total fineness of the elastic yarn, the warp direction stretch rate under a 9.8 N load is 15 to 30%, and the weft stretch rate Stretch silky woven fabric, characterized in that is 35-50%.

(2) The stretch silky woven fabric according to (1), wherein the total fineness of the elastic yarn is 25 to 50 dtex.

(3) The crimped yarn has a single yarn fineness of 1.4 to 3.4 dtex, a total fineness of 42 to 127.5 dtex, and a crimp rate of 30 to 50 %, (1) or ( 2) Stretch silky fabric.

(4) In the single yarn cross section constituting the front Symbol crimped yarn, the number of the protrusions is 15 to 35 pieces, one stretch silky fabric (1) to (3).

( 5 ) The covered silk is the stretch silky woven fabric according to any one of (1) to ( 4) , wherein the elastic yarn and the crimped yarn are twisted at a twist number of 500 to 1000 T / M.

(6) cover factor is 2,500 to 3,800, (1) any stretch silky fabric - (5).

  The stretch silky woven fabric of the present invention is obtained by coating a crimped yarn, which has a specific cross-sectional shape by an alkali weight reduction treatment, as a sheath yarn with a finer fineness than the elastic yarn as a core yarn and having a specific cross-sectional shape. The coated yarn is used for warp and weft. Therefore, when a protrusion is formed on the surface of the crimped yarn by the alkali weight reduction treatment, an appropriate friction resistance acts between the constituent yarns, so that the elasticity is not too strong and has an appropriate elasticity. Therefore, the fabric is less squeezed to the human body and excellent in comfort, drape and resilience, and has a silky touch texture. The stretch silky woven fabric of the present invention is suitably used particularly for apparel applications (especially for women apparel applications such as blouses) that require moderate stretchability so as not to overtighten the body.

It is the schematic which shows the form of a cross-sectional shape when the protrusion part is formed in the crimping process thread | yarn used in Example 1 by the alkali weight reduction process. It is the schematic which shows an example of the manufacturing process of the crimped yarn used for this invention.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
In the stretch silky woven fabric of the present invention, a coated yarn obtained by coating an elastic yarn as a core yarn with a crimped yarn as a sheath yarn is used for both warp and weft. The cross section of the single yarn composing the crimped yarn (surface perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the yarn) is shaped so that a protrusion (uneven shape) is formed by the alkali weight reduction process, resulting in an irregular cross-sectional shape. is there. When the stretch silky woven fabric of the present invention is subjected to an alkali weight reduction treatment, fine protrusions are formed on the surface of the single yarn constituting the crimped yarn used for the coated yarn. The protrusions irregularly change the contact surface between the crimped yarn and the elastic yarn, and an appropriate frictional resistance works between the yarns. Appropriate elasticity and excellent silky touch texture are even more manifested.

  As described above, the silky touch fabric of the present invention has an appropriate stretchability that is not too strong because a crimped yarn that forms an appropriate protrusion by performing an alkali weight loss treatment is used. Specifically, the warp direction elongation rate under a 9.8N load when a protrusion is formed on the surface of the crimped yarn by alkali weight reduction treatment is 15 to 30%, and is 18 to 28%. It is preferably 20 to 25%. Further, when the protrusion is formed on the surface of the crimped yarn by the alkali weight reduction treatment, the elongation in the weft direction under a load of 9.8 N is 35 to 50%, preferably 35 to 45%. 37 to 43% is more preferable. If the elongation in the warp direction and the weft direction under a load of 9.8 N is in the above range, the stretchability is sufficient, and it does not feel stretched when worn and is comfortable to wear. Is not excessively high, and the feeling of tightening at the time of wearing does not become too strong, so that the woven fabric has stretchability suitable for clothing use. The elongation ratio in the warp direction and the weft direction can be adjusted to the above range by adjusting the total fineness of the elastic yarn, the crimp rate of the crimped yarn, or the number of protrusions in the crimped yarn.

The crimped yarn used in the stretch silky fabric of the present invention will be described below.
The crimped yarn needs to be thicker than the elastic yarn. Specifically, the total fineness of the crimped yarn is 1.2 to 6.0 times the fineness of the elastic yarn. It is preferably ˜5.0 times, more preferably 2.0 to 4.2 times. When the total fineness ratio of the crimped yarn and the elastic yarn is within the above range, the stretchability of the elastic yarn is not emphasized when subjected to the alkali weight reduction treatment, and the silky touch texture is excellent. Only the texture of the yarn is not emphasized and appropriate stretchability is expressed. That is, it can be set as the textile fabric which is excellent in balance with elasticity and silky touch texture. In addition, in order to further improve the balance between stretchability and silky touch texture, the total fineness of the crimped yarn when the protrusions are formed by the alkali weight loss treatment is 1.0 to 4 of the total fineness of the elastic yarn. It is preferably 8 times, more preferably 1.0 to 4.0 times, and even more preferably 1.6 to 3.4 times.

  The total fineness of the elastic yarn is preferably 25 to 50 dtex, and more preferably 30 to 45 dtex. If the total fineness of the elastic yarn is in the above range, more moderate stretchability will be exhibited, the stretchability will not be too strong, the tightening force will not be excessively high when worn, and it will be more comfortable, so it will be better in the clothing field. It becomes a practical fabric suitable for (especially women's clothing field such as blouse).

  The single yarn fineness of the crimped yarn is preferably 2.0 to 4.0 dtex from the viewpoint of excellent balance between stretchability, silky touch texture, drape and resilience, and 2.3 to 3.5 dtex. More preferably. For the same reason, the total fineness of the crimped yarn is preferably 60 to 150 dtex, and more preferably 100 to 140 dtex. In addition, from the viewpoint of more excellent balance between stretchability, silky touch texture, drape and resilience, the single yarn fineness of the crimped yarn when the protrusion is formed by the alkali weight loss treatment is 1.4 to 3.4 dtex. It is preferable that it is 1.6-2.8 dtex. The total fineness is preferably 42 to 127.5 dtex, and more preferably 50 to 110 dtex.

  The crimp rate of the crimped yarn before the alkali weight reduction treatment is preferably 50 to 65%, more preferably 55 to 63%. When the crimp rate is in the above range, the stretchability is not excessively high when the alkali weight loss treatment is performed, and the draping property is excellent. Since the stretchability of the yarn is not suppressed more than necessary, the stretchability is appropriately expressed, and the fabric is more excellent in resilience. In addition, it is preferable that the crimp rate of the crimped yarn in which the protrusion part was formed by the alkali weight reduction process is 30 to 50%, and it is more preferable that it is 34 to 46%.

  On the single yarn surface of the crimped yarn, protrusions can be formed by alkali reduction treatment as described above. Examples of the method for causing the protrusions to appear on the surface of the single yarn by the alkali weight loss treatment include the following methods. A polymer having different solubility in alkali is spun by a composite spinning method, and a core-sheath composite fiber in which a poorly soluble polymer is arranged in the core and an easily soluble polymer is arranged in the sheath is used as a single yarn. A multifilament yarn (core-sheath composite yarn) is obtained. The cross-sectional shape of the core part in this core-sheath conjugate fiber is a cross-sectional shape that can form, for example, a protrusion (uneven shape) as shown in FIG. Specifically, the core-sheath composite yarn composed of the core-sheath composite fiber is crimped by false twisting or the like to obtain a crimped yarn. Next, a protrusion can be formed on the surface by dissolving and removing the easily soluble polymer in the sheath in the core-sheath conjugate fiber, which is a single yarn, by alkali weight reduction treatment. The alkali weight loss treatment condition is a condition capable of forming the protrusions, and is preferably set so that, for example, the weight loss rate is 15 to 30%.

  As a material of the crimped yarn, for example, polyester can be used, and polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or a copolymer polyester mainly composed of PET is particularly preferable. In order to be more excellent in silky touch texture, for example, it is preferable to use bright yarn (a yarn having a relatively small content of titanium oxide fine particles and glossy).

In the crimped yarn subjected to the alkali weight reduction treatment, a protrusion is formed on the surface of the single yarn, and at the same time, the crimp change rate K obtained by the following formula (1) is 20 to 40%. It is preferable that the characteristic is expressed. The crimp change rate K is more preferably 25 to 35%.
K = [(K1-K2)] / K1 × 100 (I)
In the above formula (I), K1 represents the crimp rate (%) before the alkali weight reduction treatment, and K2 represents the crimp rate (%) after the alkali weight loss treatment.

  In the crimped yarn of the present invention, the crimp change rate before and after the alkali weight reduction treatment is relatively small as 20 to 40%, and when the crimpability is difficult to reduce, the core yarn is subjected to the alkali weight loss treatment. This is preferable because the elastic yarn is sufficiently tightened and the stretchability does not become too high, so that a suitable stretchability is exhibited. Specifically, if the crimping change rate of the crimped yarn is in the above range, the tension on the core yarn will not be too strong, so the stretchability will not be reduced excessively, and the tightening effect on the core yarn will be sufficient. For this reason, the inherent high elasticity of the elastic yarn as the core yarn is not excessively developed. That is, stretchability can be appropriately expressed. The crimp change rate is in the above range by adopting a polymer that does not easily change the crimp rate even when subjected to an alkali weight loss treatment as the polymer constituting the sheath portion of the core-sheath composite fiber constituting the crimped yarn. be able to.

  In the cross section of the single yarn constituting the crimped yarn, as described above, the alkali poorly soluble polymer is arranged in the core portion, the alkali soluble polymer is arranged in the sheath portion, and the protrusion is formed by the alkali weight reduction treatment. The core-sheath composite shape. The number of protrusions is preferably 15 to 35, more preferably 17 to 33, and more preferably 19 to 23, because the frictional resistance between yarns becomes better and the stretchability and silky touch texture are better. It is particularly preferable that the number is individual. If the number of protrusions formed by the alkali weight loss treatment is 14 or less, the stretchability becomes too strong and may not be suitable for clothing use (particularly women's clothing use), and is 36 or more. , Stretchability may not be sufficiently exhibited.

  FIG. 1 shows an example of a cross-sectional shape in the longitudinal direction of a single yarn constituting a crimped yarn subjected to an alkali weight reduction process in Example 1 described later. As shown in FIG. 1, for example, the cross-sectional shape of the crimped yarn subjected to the alkali weight reduction treatment in this specification is such that minute size protrusions and grooves are distributed almost uniformly on the surface of the yarn. , A gear type (gear type) in which the cross section of the protrusion is a rectangle or a substantially trapezoidal shape, a regular polygonal cross-sectional shape such as a regular triangle or a regular square, an H-shaped flat shape, or an I-shaped flat shape This is not to say an irregular shape. Appropriate stretchability or excellent silky touch texture when the shape is a regular polygonal cross-sectional shape such as a regular triangle or a regular square, an irregular shape such as an H-shaped flat shape or an I-shaped flat shape, or a round cross-sectional shape. Does not develop. In addition, it is preferable that the width | variety of a projection part is 0.3-1.0 micrometer, and height is about a fine thing about 0.4-3.0 micrometers.

  In the present invention, the number of protrusions in the cross section of the single yarn constituting the crimped yarn subjected to the alkali weight reduction treatment and the crimp ratio of the crimped yarn subjected to the alkali weight reduction treatment are in a specific range. Thus, a stretchable fabric is controlled within a more appropriate range, and a woven fabric having a silky touch feel, drapeability, and resilience can be obtained.

  An example of a method for producing crimped yarn will be described with reference to FIG. The present invention is not limited to this method as long as a crimped yarn that exhibits the effects of the present invention can be obtained. FIG. 2 is a process schematic diagram showing one embodiment of a method for producing a crimped yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 2, a polyester core-sheath composite fiber that can form a protrusion when subjected to an alkali weight loss treatment (a readily soluble polyester polymer is disposed in the sheath, and a poorly soluble polyester polymer is disposed in the core, respectively. The supply roller (1) and the first take-up roller (3) for the polyester core-sheath composite yarn (Y), which is a multifilament yarn including a single-component composite fiber having a core-sheath cross-sectional shape having a protrusion. Then, heat treatment is performed by a heat treatment heater (2) installed between the first take-up roller (3) and the second take-up roller (4).

  Continuously, using a false twist heater (5) and a frictional false twist device (6) between the second take-up roller (4) and the third take-up roller (7), a specific draw false twist Crimping is performed under the conditions to obtain a crimped yarn. Next, the crimped yarn passes through the second take-up roller (7) and is wound up on the package (9) by the take-up roller (8).

In the stretch false twisting process, for example, the processing speed is 90 to 140 m / min with respect to the polyester core-sheath composite yarn (Y) composed of a plurality of polyester core-sheath composite fibers as described above, and an overload of 0 to 8%. In the feed state, after heat treatment in the range of 170 to 230 ° C. and then cooling at room temperature, the false twist number (T / M) is set to 30000 / (0.9D) ^{1/2 to} 35000 / (0.9D ) The false false twisting process can be performed by setting the temperature to ^1/2 and the false twisting temperature in the range of 140 to 200 ° C. (preferably 150 to 180 ° C.). Note that D represents the total fineness (unit: dtex) of the crimped yarn.

  By subjecting the stretch silky woven fabric of the present invention to an alkali weight loss treatment and forming a protrusion on the surface of the crimped yarn, the cross-sectional deformation due to false twisting and the protrusion on the surface of the yarn are combined. In addition, drape and resilience can be expressed more. In addition, moderate stretchability can be expressed due to the crimpability of the crimped yarn and the protrusions. The alkali weight loss treatment may be performed after weaving the coated yarn including the crimped yarn after false twisting.

  The elastic yarn, which will be described below, may be subjected to an alkali weight reduction treatment after being made into a woven fabric together with the crimped yarn, so that the elasticity of the alkali weight reduction treatment is deteriorated, or the yarn is deteriorated. It is preferable to select and use a raw yarn that can be suppressed. Examples of the elastic yarn include polyurethane elastic yarn and polyamide elastic yarn.

  The elastic yarn is preferably a monofilament in order to be more excellent in stretchability or texture. Further, the tensile breaking strength (room temperature) of the elastic yarn is preferably 40 to 60 MPa, and the tensile elongation (room temperature) is preferably 500 to 1000%.

  The method for producing the covering yarn is not particularly limited as long as it is a method for producing a yarn having a core-sheath covering structure by coating a crimped yarn that is a sheath yarn on an elastic yarn that is a core yarn, for example, an elastic yarn. Examples thereof include a covering method in which crimped yarn is wound on or a twisting method. Here, the draft ratio of the elastic yarn at the time of covering or twisting may be appropriately adjusted according to the intended use of the resulting fabric, and is generally 2 to 4 times. Further, the number of twists at the time of twisting is preferably in the range of 500 to 1000 T / M in order to exhibit an appropriate drape feeling or resilience. The total fineness of the coated yarn is preferably 100 to 250 dtex, for example.

In the stretch silky fabric of the present invention, the CF (cover factor) when the protrusion is formed on the surface of the crimped yarn by the alkali weight reduction treatment is preferably 2500 to 3800, and preferably 2800 to 3500. More preferred. When the CF is in the above range, stretchability and silky touch texture suitable for clothing use can be expressed. In addition, it is preferable that CF of the stretch silky fabric before an alkali weight reduction process is 1800-2500, and it is more preferable that it is 2000-2400.

  The structure of the stretch silky woven fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include a plain structure, a twill structure, a satin structure, or a changed structure by dobby or jacquard. Of these, a twill structure is preferred because of its superior elasticity. Further, the stretch silky woven fabric of the present invention may be subjected to various processing such as dyeing, deep dyeing, softening, antistatic processing, or water repellent processing as a further finishing process in addition to the alkali weight reduction process. Good. Further, the warp density or the weft density of the woven fabric only needs to be within a range where the effects of the present invention can be achieved. For example, the above-described CF may be within a preferable range.

  The stretch silky woven fabric of the present invention has appropriate stretchability and is excellent in silky touch texture, drape, and resilience, and therefore is suitably used for clothing applications (particularly women's clothing applications).

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. However, the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

The measurement and evaluation of each physical property are as follows.
(1) Fineness Measured according to JIS L 1013.

(2) Total fineness ratio According to the following formula, the ratio between the total fineness of the crimped yarn and the total fineness of the elastic yarn was determined.
Total fineness ratio (times) = (total fineness of crimped yarn) / (total fineness of elastic yarn)

(3) Crimp rate Using a measuring machine with a frame circumference of 1.125 m, a casserole with a winding number of 5 was prepared and left standing all day and night in a suspended state on a stand. Next, a load of 0.000147 cN / dtex (load 1) was applied to the casserole, and after boiling water treatment for 30 minutes was performed in boiling water, the water was lightly removed with a filter paper and left to air-dry for 30 minutes. Next, with the load 1 applied, a light load (load 2) of 0.00177 cN / dtex was further applied, and the length A of the cassette was measured. Next, only the load 2 was removed, a heavy load of 0.044 cN / dtex was applied, and the length B of the cassette was measured. The crimp rate was calculated using the following formula.
Crimp rate (%) = [(B−A) / B] × 100

(4) Cover factor (CF)
The woven fabrics obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples, and relaxation and scouring of the woven fabric using a continuous scouring machine (using 1 g / liter of Sunmol FL and 2 g / liter of caustic soda at a temperature of 120 ° C. and processing time Next to the treatment for 30 minutes, an alkali weight loss treatment (treatment with flake caustic soda 10 g / liter, treatment temperature 98 ° C., treatment time 30 minutes, bath ratio 1:50, weight loss rate 20%) is performed. Preset for a minute. Subsequently, disperse dyeing was performed using a liquid dyeing machine (Dianix Black RB-FS as a dye was 12% owf and Dianix Black HG-FS was used at 2.5% owf. Nikka Sun Salt SN- was used as an auxiliary agent. 130 g of 0.5 g / liter and acetic acid of 0.2 cc / liter were used at a temperature of 135 ° C. for a treatment time of 40 minutes and a bath ratio of 1:30. Calculated.
CF = X√D1 + Y√D2
In the above formula, X is the number of warps per inch of the fabric, Y is the number of wefts per inch of the fabric, D1 is the total fineness (dtex) of the warps constituting the fabric, and D2 is the weft of the fabric. The total fineness (dtex) is indicated.

(5) Elongation rate The fabrics obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples were treated under the same conditions as in (4) above (relaxation, scouring, alkali weight loss treatment, and dyeing), and then stretched under the following conditions. did.
Sample size: length 100 mm (excluding gripping part), width 2 mm
Tensile tester: Tensilon tensile tester initial load: 0.1N
Tensile speed: 300 mm / min Tensile length: Elongation to 9.8 N load Next, the elongation rate in the warp direction and the elongation rate in the weft direction at a 9.8 N load were determined by the following formulas.
Elongation rate of fabric (%) = (Elongation length under load of 9.8 N (mm) / 100) × 100

(6) Crimp change rate K
The crimp change rate of the crimped yarn used was calculated by the following formula. The crimp rate after the alkali weight reduction treatment was measured using a crimped yarn subjected to the alkali weight loss treatment under the same conditions as in (4) above.
K = [(K1-K2) / K1] × 100
In the above formula (I), K1 indicates the crimp rate (%) before the alkali weight loss treatment, and K2 indicates the crimp rate (%) after the alkali weight loss treatment.

(7) Elasticity (sensory evaluation)
The fabrics obtained in the examples and comparative examples were treated (relaxed, scoured, alkali weight-reduced, and dyeing) under the same conditions as in (4) above. This woven fabric was stretched by hand and evaluated according to the following criteria based on tactile sensation.
(Double-circle): Appropriate elasticity is expressed and it is favorable.
○: The elasticity is slightly good.
Δ: Elasticity is normal.
X: The elasticity is poor or too strong.

(8) Drapability (sensory evaluation)
The fabrics obtained in the examples and comparative examples were treated (relaxed, scoured, alkali weight-reduced, and dyeing) under the same conditions as in (4) above. This fabric was suspended on a flat plate and visually observed, and evaluated according to the following criteria.
A: Drapability is good.
○: Drapability is slightly good.
Δ: Drapability is normal.
×: Drapability is poor.

(9) Rebound (sensory evaluation)
The fabrics obtained in the examples and comparative examples were treated (relaxed, scoured, alkali weight-reduced, and dyeing) under the same conditions as in (4) above. This fabric was evaluated according to the following criteria based on the tactile sensation.
A: Good resilience.
○: Rebound is slightly good.
Δ: Normal resilience.
X: Poor resilience

(10) Silky touch texture The fabrics obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples (woven fabrics subjected to relaxation, scouring, alkali weight loss treatment, and dyeing) were evaluated according to the following criteria by visual and tactile sensations.
A: Silky touch texture is good.
○: Silky touch texture is slightly good.
Δ: Silky touch texture is normal.
X: Silky touch texture is poor.

Example 1
Polyurethane fiber (33 dtex, “Roika” manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) was prepared as a core yarn by extending the length to 3 times. Then, a 135 dtex 48 filament polyester core-sheath composite yarn subjected to crimping processing (the alkali-soluble polyester polymer forms the sheath, the alkali-insoluble polyester polymer forms the core, and the number of protrusions on the core section is 20 multifilament yarns composed of 20 polyester core-sheath composite fibers (crimp rate 62%) were prepared as sheath yarns. A sheath yarn was wound around the core yarn under the condition of 750 T / M (S twist) to obtain a coated yarn. The coated yarn was arranged on the warp and weft and woven with a 2/2 twill structure to obtain the stretch silky fabric of the present invention. In addition, the cross section of the crimped yarn after the alkali weight reduction treatment was a gear type having 20 protrusions as shown in FIG. The structure and evaluation of the stretch silky fabric of the present invention obtained in Example 1 and Examples 2 to 6 described later and the fabrics obtained in Comparative Examples 1 to 6 described later are shown in Table 1.

Example 2
The total fineness ratio (total fineness ratio between elastic yarn and crimped yarn) was changed by using a crimped yarn of 70 dtex24 filament instead of a crimped yarn of 135 dtex48 filament as the sheath yarn, and is shown in Table 1. A stretch silky woven fabric of Example 2 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the conditions were satisfied.

Example 3
The polyester core-sheath composite yarn is replaced with a core-sheath composite nozzle having 15 protrusions instead of the core-sheath composite nozzle having 20 cores, and the cross-sectional shape of the core is a protrusion. The stretch silky of Example 3 was made in the same manner as in Example 1 except that it was changed to those manufactured under the same conditions as in FIG. A woven fabric was obtained.

Example 4
The polyester core-sheath composite yarn is replaced with a core-sheath composite nozzle with 35 protrusions instead of the core-sheath composite nozzle with 20 cores, and the cross-sectional shape of the core is a protrusion. The stretch silky of Example 4 was made in the same manner as in Example 1 except that it was changed to those manufactured under the same conditions as in FIG. A woven fabric was obtained.

Example 5
The polyester core-sheath composite thread is replaced with a core-sheath composite nozzle with 14 protrusions instead of the core-sheath composite nozzle with 20 cores, and the cross-sectional shape of the core is a protrusion. The stretch silky of Example 5 was made in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the product was manufactured under the same conditions as in FIG. A woven fabric was obtained.

Example 6
The polyester core-sheath composite yarn is replaced with a core-sheath composite nozzle with a number of protrusions of 36 instead of the core-sheath composite nozzle with a number of protrusions of the core, and the cross-sectional shape of the core is a protrusion. The stretch silky of Example 6 was made in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the product was manufactured under the same conditions as in FIG. A woven fabric was obtained.

  The stretch silky woven fabrics of the present invention obtained in Examples 1 to 6 have moderate stretch properties that are not too strong, and are excellent in silky touch texture, drape and resilience. It fits the human body without collapsing. Among them, the stretch silky fabrics of Examples 1 to 4 were superior in their respective characteristics, and in particular, the stretch silky fabrics of Examples 1 to 2 were more excellent in silky touch texture.

Comparative Example 1
The woven fabric of Comparative Example 1 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the elastic yarn as the core yarn was replaced with polyurethane fibers having a total fineness of 22 dtex and the total fineness ratio was changed to the conditions described in Table 1. Obtained. The woven fabric of Comparative Example 1 was poor in stretchability because the total fineness of the elastic yarn was too thin and the total fineness ratio was outside the range of the present invention.

Comparative Example 2
The woven fabric of Comparative Example 2 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the elastic yarn as the core yarn was replaced with polyurethane fiber having a total fineness of 120 dtex and the total fineness ratio was changed to the conditions described in Table 1. Obtained. This woven fabric was too thick for the elastic yarn and the ratio of the total fineness was outside the range of the present invention. Therefore, the stretchability was too strong, and the garment was too tight when worn. .

Comparative Example 3
A comparative example was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the crimped yarn as the sheath yarn was changed to a polyester crimped yarn having a round cross-section and the conditions described in Table 1 were used without performing the alkali weight loss treatment. 3 fabrics were obtained. This fabric was presumed to have insufficient frictional resistance between yarns, was too stretchy, and had a poor silky touch texture.

Comparative Example 4
The woven fabric of Comparative Example 4 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the crimped yarn as the sheath yarn was changed to a polyester crimped yarn having a crimp rate of 45% and the conditions shown in Table 1 were adopted. Got. In this woven fabric, the crimped yarn had a weak crimpability, and therefore the elastic yarn exhibited a strong stretchability, the stretchability was too strong, and the drapeability was poor.

Comparative Example 5
The woven fabric of Comparative Example 5 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the crimped yarn as the sheath yarn was changed to a polyester crimped yarn having a crimp rate of 70% and the conditions shown in Table 1 were adopted. Got. Since this woven fabric was too crimped, the repellency was poor, and in addition, the woven fabric contracted to give a hard texture and poor drape.

Comparative Example 6
Comparison was made by the same method as in Example 1 except that the crimped yarn as the sheath yarn was changed to a polyester crimped yarn having a regular triangular cross section and the conditions described in Table 1 were used without performing the alkali weight loss treatment. The fabric of Example 6 was obtained. This fabric was presumed to have insufficient frictional resistance between yarns, was too stretchy, and had a poor silky touch texture.

Y polyester core-sheath composite yarn 1 first supply roller 2 heat treatment heater 3 first take-up roller 4 second take-up roller 5 false twisting heater 6 pin type false twisting device 7 third take-off roller 8 winding roller 9 package

Claims (6)

The coated yarn formed by coating the crimped yarn as the sheath yarn against the elastic yarn as the core yarn is a stretch silky fabric arranged on the warp and weft,
The crimped yarn has a protrusion formed on the surface of a single yarn by alkali weight loss treatment,
The total fineness of the crimped yarn is 1.0 to 4.8 times the total fineness of the elastic yarn ,
9 . Stretch silky woven fabric characterized by having a warp direction elongation rate of 15-30% and a weft direction elongation rate of 35-50% under an 8N load.   The stretch silky fabric according to claim 1, wherein the elastic yarn has a total fineness of 25 to 50 dtex. The crimped yarn has a single yarn fineness of 1.4 to 3.4 dtex, a total fineness of 42 to 127.5 dtex, and a crimp rate of 30 to 50 %. Or the stretch silky textile as described in 2. In the single yarn cross section constituting the front Symbol crimped yarn, characterized in that the number of the protrusions is 15 to 35 amino stretch silky fabric according to any one of claims 1-3. The stretch silky according to any one of claims 1 to 4 , wherein the coated yarn is formed by twisting the elastic yarn and the crimped yarn at a twist number of 500 to 1000 T / M. fabric. Cover factor is characterized in that the 2500-3800 stretch silky fabric according to any one of claims 1-5.

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