JP7298190B2 - False twist composite textured yarn and knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a false twisted composite textured yarn, a knitted fabric using the same, and a garment using the same.

In recent years, women's clothing has become increasingly diversified and fashionable. Among them, the hemline of underwear, which is moderately elastic and fits comfortably on the body, is thin and has a beautiful weave, and is visible through the outer garment. No, there is a great demand for fashionable foundation garments. In addition, there is a tendency to leave the edge of the knitted fabric unfinished and to enjoy it as fashionable clothing.

In addition, products using knitted fabrics mixed with polyurethane elastic fibers are widely used because of their high elongation, good resilience from stretching and good fit, but knitted fabrics mixed with polyurethane elastic fibers are repeatedly used. When the fabric is stretched, it deforms and becomes uneven, resulting in "deformation, misalignment, and looseness." , "curl" in which the knitted fabric is curved, and so-called "slip-in" in which polyurethane elastic fibers slip out.

In order to solve the above problem, for example, a stretchable warp knitted fabric in which at least the inelastic yarn is a 1 × 1 tricot structure and the elastic yarn is a looping structure is oriented at an angle of 3 degrees or more and 177 degrees or less with respect to the knitting direction. There has been proposed a garment that is cut at an angle and formed so that the edges that do not require trimming become the edges of the garment as they are cut (see Patent Document 1).

In addition, the bare yarn of highly fusible alkali-resistant polyurethane elastic fiber is played on all of the loops constituting the weft knitted fabric of the 1 × 1 rubber knitted structure or the reversible knitted structure containing the intermediate yarn made of at least one type of inelastic yarn. A weft knitted fabric has been proposed in which highly fusible alkali-resistant polyurethane elastic fibers are heat-sealed to each other and/or the intersections of the fibers and inelastic yarns are heat-sealed by heat setting (see Patent Document 2).

Furthermore, in order to improve the above, there is an elastic knitted fabric that is made of elastic yarn and inelastic yarn and is used as it is cut without treating the cut part using air-entangled composite yarn. It has been proposed (see Patent Document 3).

Japanese Patent No. 3672920 Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2005-350800 Japanese Patent No. 5631528

However, although the garment described in Patent Document 1 limits the cutting direction and does not require edge trimming, the edges of the knitted fabric curl.

Further, the knitted fabric described in Patent Document 2 requires a device for supplying the elastic fibers in a draft state to the yarn feeder of the knitting machine, and there is a problem that it cannot be knitted by a knitting machine without the device. In addition, it is necessary to adjust the draft rate of the elastic fibers of all the yarn feeders to be constant, which is troublesome.

Furthermore, since the yarn used for the knitted fabric of Patent Document 3 is air-entangled, the yarns that are combined are converged at the entangled portion, and the converged portion inhibits and reduces the stretchability of the yarn. The texture becomes hard. In addition, yarns are less likely to fuse together in the converging portion than in the non-converging portion, leading to deterioration in workability, and in the knitted fabric, the fused portions of the yarns are peeled off, impairing the shape stability.

Therefore, the present invention solves the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and provides a composite textured yarn that has both high stretchability and soft texture, and has good post-process passability, and a stretchable knitted fabric that has excellent shape stability. The challenge is to

That is, the present invention has the following configurations.

(1) A false-twisted composite textured yarn comprising elastic fibers and inelastic fibers, the false-twisted composite textured yarn being substantially formed only of the open portions, and the inelastic fibers being thermoplastic synthetic fibers. A false-twisted composite yarn.

(2) A false-twisted composite textured yarn in which the elastic fibers are polyurethane fibers.

(3) The false-twisted composite textured yarn according to (2) above, wherein the polyurethane fibers have swirling properties.

(4) The false-twisted composite textured yarn according to any one of (1) to (3) above, wherein the number of ridges and valleys in the longitudinal direction of the elastic fiber is 50 to 500/m.

(5) The false-twisted composite textured yarn according to any one of (1) to (4), which has a stretch recovery rate of 50% or more.

(6) A stretchable knitted fabric partially using the false-twisted composite textured yarn according to any one of (1) to (5) above, wherein the elastic yarns are fused to each other at loop contact points. .

(7) The elastic knitted fabric according to (6) above, wherein the elastic knitted fabric has an elongation rate of 120% or more.

(8) The elastic knitted fabric according to (6) or (7) above, which has an elongation recovery rate of 80% or more.

(9) The stretchable knitted fabric according to any one of (6) to (8) above, wherein the stretchable knitted fabric has a vertical and horizontal stretch rate balance of 0.85 to 1.20.

(10) A garment, which is the elastic knitted fabric according to any one of (6) to (9) above, wherein the cut ends are exposed.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, it has become possible to obtain a composite textured yarn having both high stretchability and a soft feel and good post-process passability, and a stretchable knitted fabric excellent in shape stability.

FIG. 1 is a schematic side view illustrating the false twisted composite textured yarn of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a schematic side view illustrating a false-twisted composite textured yarn in which open portions and converging portions are alternately formed. FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing an example of the process for producing the false twisted composite textured yarn of the present invention. FIG. 4 is a conceptual diagram for explaining a method for evaluating the number of peaks and valleys of elastic fibers in a false twisted composite textured yarn. FIG. 5 is a conceptual diagram explaining a method for evaluating whether or not the false-twisted composite textured yarn is formed only at the open portion. FIG. 6 is a conceptual diagram for explaining a method for evaluating fraying and shape stability.

The elastic fibers used in the present invention include polyurethane elastic fibers, polyester elastic fibers such as polyetherester elastic fibers, polyamide elastic fibers such as polyetheramide elastic fibers, and polyetheresteramide elastic fibers. Fibers that exhibit elastomeric properties can be used. It is also possible to produce a composite yarn by combining two or more types of thermoplastic resin materials into a side-by-side type, eccentric type, mushroom type, daruma type, or other cross-sectional shape. Thermoplastic resin materials used for composite yarns include polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, etc., combinations of different resin types so as to have desired characteristics, or combinations of different viscosities even if they have the same skeleton. It can be selected and used as appropriate.

Among them, polyurethane elastic fibers are preferred.

The elastic fibers may be either monofilaments or multifilaments.

If the fineness of the elastic fibers is high, the knitted fabric will have high tension and stiffness, but the texture will be rough and stiff. On the other hand, if the fineness is low, yarn breakage and the like increase in false twisting and knitting processing, resulting in poor process passability. The fineness is preferably 10 to 110 dtex in order to maintain good process passability and to give the knitted fabric an appropriate tension and softness, and a fine fineness of 10 to 78 dtex is particularly preferable for general clothing, and more preferably. is between 10 and 44 dtex.

In addition, it is preferable that the elastic fibers used in the present invention have turning ability. The ability to swirl means that the elastic fibers in the false twisted composite textured yarn spin as it is or after undergoing various treatments such as heat treatment in a twisted state such as false twisting and untwisting to form a false twisted composite textured yarn. It means to show a character. The presence or absence of the turning property (turning ability) is determined by the evaluation method for the presence or absence of turning ability, which will be described later. When the elastic fibers exhibit twirling properties, the elastic fibers tend to wind around one to several adjacent non-elastic fibers without air entanglement, making it possible to form a structure that is difficult to separate from each other.

Examples of elastic fibers having such turning ability include polyurethane fibers, polyester elastic fibers, polyamide elastic fibers, etc. Among them, polyurethane fibers are preferable from the viewpoint of excellent stretchability and recovery.

The inelastic fibers used in the present invention are thermoplastic synthetic fibers, which are generally classified as fibers that do not exhibit so-called rubber-like elasticity. It is preferred to use composite textured yarns made of plastic multifilaments. Thermoplastic multifilaments include polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, and fibers made of copolymers thereof, polycaproamide (nylon 6), polyhexamethylene adipamide (nylon Polyamide fibers such as 66), acrylic fibers, and olefin fibers such as fibers made of olefin resin such as polypropylene are suitable.

Moreover, it is preferable that the non-elastic fibers are made of a material having a higher melting point or softening point than the elastic fibers.

The fineness of the non-elastic fibers is preferably equal to or greater than the fineness of the elastic fibers in order to provide a structure in which the elastic fibers and the non-elastic fibers are difficult to separate from each other.

When the non-elastic fiber has a high fineness, the knitted fabric has a soft texture, but tends to be soft and loose in tension and stiffness. On the other hand, if the fineness is low, yarn breakage and the like increase in false twisting and knitting processing, resulting in poor process passability. The fineness of the non-elastic fibers is preferably 10-220 dtex, more preferably 15-110 dtex, in order to maintain good processability and give the knitted fabric proper tension and softness.

When the inelastic fibers are multifilaments, the single fiber fineness is preferably 0.5 dtex to 2.0 dtex from the viewpoint of softening the texture. By setting the number of filaments in the single fiber of the inelastic fiber to 20 or more, the single fibers do not adhere too closely to each other, and are moderately interrupted by the elastic fiber, making it easier to form a structure in which the elastic fiber and the inelastic fiber are difficult to separate. .

The cross-sectional shape of the monofilaments of these inelastic fibers may be round, triangular, flat, hexagonal, octagonal, multilobal, or the like. Moreover, it is also possible to make a composite thread manufactured by combining two or more kinds of materials, and the cross-sectional shape thereof may be a concentric circular core-sheath composite structure or the like.

In the present invention, a false-twisted composite textured yarn obtained by using the elastic fibers and the inelastic fibers, aligning the elastic fibers and the inelastic fibers, drawing and false-twisting them, and winding them is particularly preferable. As a result, the elastic fibers and the non-elastic fibers are likely to have a structure in which the elastic fibers and the non-elastic fibers are not easily displaced from each other by utilizing the instantaneous elastic recovery force generated by the drawing without actively performing the entangling treatment.

FIG. 1 is a schematic side view illustrating the false twisted composite textured yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 1, the false-twisted composite textured yarn is formed only at the spread portion where the crimp is developed. FIG. 2 is a schematic side view illustrating a false twisted composite textured yarn in which open portions and converging portions are alternately formed, and is shown for comparison with the false twisted composite textured yarn of the present invention.

As shown in FIG. 1, the false-twisted composite textured yarn of the present invention has a structure in which elastic fibers 102 and non-elastic fibers 103 are false-twisted and composited in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and substantially only the spread portion 101 is formed. It has The configuration in which the spread portions 202 and the converging portions 201 obtained by the conventional entangling treatment as shown in FIG. 2 appear alternately is not recognized. In the spread portion, crimps due to false twisting are developed, and converging portions in which crimps are not substantially developed, which are obtained by conventional entangling treatment, are not observed. The converged part by the entangling process is a part that appears alternately with the spread part, and by crossing adjacent filaments, substantially all the filaments are densely converged, and each filament can be easily separated. It means the part that cannot be done.

In this way, the false twisted composite textured yarn of the present invention is formed substantially only in the open portions, but since the false twisting process forms a structure that is difficult to shift from each other, the elastic fibers and the non-elastic fibers are separated from each other during knitting. Although it is difficult to separate by unwinding, each filament can move freely without being constrained, such as by exposing each yarn to the surface. , a soft texture can be obtained.

Further, in the false-twisted composite textured yarn, the stretch recovery rate is preferably 50% or more. If the stretch recovery rate is low, the stretchability is poor, and sufficient stretchability cannot be obtained when the fabric is made into a knitted fabric. If it is 50% or more, the knitted fabric can follow the movement of the body with a low load. More preferably, it is 55% or more. The upper limit is not particularly limited, and depends on the type of elastic fiber used, but is preferably about 80%.

In the false twisted composite textured yarn of the present invention, the number of ridges and valleys per 1 m of yarn length in the yarn longitudinal direction of the elastic fiber is preferably 50 to 500, more preferably 80 to 450, and 100 A value of up to 400 is most preferable from the standpoint of stretchability of the fabric.

In the drawing/false twisting process, by drawing at an appropriate draw ratio and performing false twisting, a crimp is formed in which the elastic fibers and the non-elastic fibers are in the same phase. , due to tension relaxation occurring immediately after leaving the delivery roller, the phases of the crimps of the elastic fibers and the crimps of the inelastic fibers are out of phase, and the peaks and valleys or valleys of the adjacent elastic and inelastic fibers And the mountains will overlap. When peaks and troughs or valleys and ridges of elastic fibers and inelastic fibers overlap in this way, the fibers behave as if they were a single thread due to the fastener effect, so that the elastic fibers and the inelastic fibers are less likely to slip. When the number of crests and valleys per 1 m of yarn length of the elastic fiber is 100 or more, an excellent fastener effect is obtained, and the elastic fiber and the inelastic fiber are not separated in the process of the post-process, so it is particularly excellent. Exhibits post-processing passability.

A detailed description will be given according to the process diagram of FIG. FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing an example of the process for producing the false twisted composite textured yarn of the present invention. In the example of FIG. 3, the elastic fiber 301 is stretched between the first feed roller 303 and the second feed roller 304 by a constant ratio, while the inelastic fiber 302 is unwound from the package and is stretched by the second feed roller 304. supply to The draft rate of the elastic fibers 301 between the first feed roller 303 and the second feed roller 304 is appropriately adjusted according to the non-elastic fibers 302 used together. For example, when the non-elastic fiber is polyester fiber, it is preferably 3.4 to 1.6 times, and when the non-elastic fiber is polyamide fiber, it is preferably 5.0 to 2.3 times. The elastic fibers 301 and the non-elastic fibers 302 coming out of the second feed roller 304 are twisted by a twisting device consisting of a twisting body 307 and a heater 305, and in a twisted state, the second feed roller 304 and the delivery roller 308 are twisted. and the heater 305 stretches and heat-sets the film.

As the twisted body, a false twist pin, a friction disk, a belt nip, and the like are preferably exemplified.

The heater temperature is preferably 120 to 230°C. However, if the elastic recovery rate can be adjusted to 50% or more, there is no problem even if it deviates from this range.

The yarn exiting the heater is cooled by the cooling plate 306 . If the twisted member 307 is a false twist pin, the cooling plate 306 may be omitted. When it passes through the twisting body 307 , the plied state is untwisted to become a non-twisted state, and it passes through the delivery roller 308 . Elastic fibers 301 and non-elastic fibers 302 are co-stretch false twisted between a second feed roller 304 and a delivery roller 308 . The draw ratio at that time is appropriately adjusted according to the non-elastic fiber 302, but when the non-elastic fiber is polyester fiber, it is 1.6 to 1.8 times, and when it is polyamide fiber, it is 1.1 to 1.3 times. is preferably

After exiting the delivery roller 308, the elastic fibers 301 tend to return to the state before drawing, so that the crimps of the elastic fibers 301 and the non-elastic fibers 302 are out of phase, and the non-elastic fibers and the elastic fibers are separated by the above-mentioned fastener effect. The false-twisted composite textured yarn 312 of the present invention in a state in which it is difficult to shift is completed, and is wound around a paper tube 311 by a winding roller 310 . The speed ratio of the delivery roller 308/second feed roller 304 is preferably set so that the breaking elongation of the inelastic fiber is 15% to 40%. The speed of the first feed roller 303 is preferably set so that the speed ratio of the delivery roller 308/first feed roller 303 is 3.0 to 5.5. There is no limit to the speed of delivery rollers 308 . The heater temperature is set so that the required texture is obtained and the stretch ratio is 50% or more.

A fourth roller 309 for tension relief may be installed before the take-up roller in order to reduce length variation due to elongation recovery of the elastic fibers. This makes it possible to stabilize the quality more.

In the thus obtained false twisted composite textured yarn of the present invention, the elastic fibers and the non-elastic fibers are false twisted and substantially formed only by the open portion, so the elastic fibers have a high degree of freedom. Since the texture of the twisted yarn is not hindered, by knitting using the twisted yarn, it is possible to produce a knitted fabric that is rich in elasticity, soft, has a good texture, and follows the movement of the body even with low stress.

In the above, "formed only at the spread part" means that all the filaments are tightly converged due to the crossing of adjacent filaments, and each filament cannot be easily separated. It means a state in which adjacent elastic fibers and several non-elastic fibers intersect, and there may be a portion where the elastic fibers and the non-elastic fibers can be easily separated. In addition, even if elastic fibers and non-elastic fibers partially cross and converge and there are parts that cannot be easily separated, if the frequency is small, the degree of freedom of each fiber is high as a whole, and the texture of the false twisted yarn is hindered. Therefore, if the judgment criteria described later are met, it is substantially "formed only by the spread portion".

Since the false-twisted composite textured yarn of the present invention contains elastic fibers with an appropriate draft rate, when used for circular knitting, it is necessary to supply the elastic fibers in a draft state to the yarn feeder of the knitting machine. A stretchable knitted fabric can be obtained by simply knitting with a general knitting tension without using a device. Warp knitting does not require a device for winding elastic fibers around a beam in a draft state during warping, and a stretchable knitted fabric can be obtained simply by warping with a general warping tension and knitting.

The knitted fabric of the present invention uses a false twisted composite textured yarn at least in part. There are no knitting organization restrictions. In the case of circular knitting, jersey, smooth, milling, etc. are preferable, and in the case of warp knitting, double knitting, atlas knitting, double half knitting, etc. are preferable.

In the present invention, it is preferable to adopt a double-sided knitting structure because it is possible to suppress the occurrence of curling of the knitted fabric.

Further, the gauge of the knitted fabric is preferably 28 to 42G (lines/inch (2.54 cm)). In particular, when smooth knitting is used, the fabric becomes thin, and when it is used as underwear or the like, it is preferable because it does not affect outerwear.

The knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained by knitting a desired knitted fabric using the above-mentioned composite yarn by a conventional method.

The obtained knitted fabric may be subjected to relaxation refinement, presetting, dyeing, and final setting.

In the knitted fabric of the present invention, the elastic fibers are fused to each other at the loop contact points, that is, the loops formed by the elastic fibers in the false twisted composite textured yarn and the loops formed by another elastic fiber, Preferably, both loops are fused together at the point of contact (loop contact). After the knitting process, when the elastic fibers are heat-set at a temperature that allows the elastic fibers to fuse together, even if the knitted fabric is cut regardless of the cutting direction, it is not necessary to trim the edges as it is cut. Therefore, it is preferable. In particular, it is preferable to set the preset temperature to a temperature at which the elastic fibers can be fused. If the elastic fibers are fused at this point, the effect of stabilizing the shrinkage of the fabric during the dyeing process is remarkable.

It is particularly preferable that the knitted fabric of the present invention has an elongation rate of 100% to 250% in at least one of the vertical direction and the horizontal direction in terms of ease of movement and fit when worn. 120% or more is especially preferable.

The knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has an elongation recovery rate of 80% or more in at least one of the warp and weft directions of the fabric. In this range, the fit and wearing comfort are excellent. In addition, it is less likely to lose its shape and is excellent in shape retention. If it is less than 80%, recovery may be poor. Moreover, those exceeding 95% are generally difficult to manufacture.

In the stretchable knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the fabric has a vertical/horizontal elongation ratio balance (lengthwise elongation ratio/horizontal direction elongation ratio) of 0.8 to 1.2. More preferably, it is 0.9 to 1.1. It is preferable that the vertical/horizontal elongation ratio balance of the fabric is 0.8 to 1.2 because it can easily follow the movement of the body.

Since the false-twisted composite textured yarn of the present invention tends to have a structure in which elastic fibers and inelastic fibers are not easily displaced from each other, a stretchable knitted fabric using this is not only excellent in stretchability, but also stretches in the cutting direction with respect to the knitted fabric. Even if it is cut regardless, it does not fray easily, and it does not need to be trimmed at the edges as it is cut. However, by adopting a structure in which the elastic fibers are fused to each other at loop contacts, such an effect becomes even more pronounced.

In addition, the stretchable knitted fabric of the present invention does not curl at its edges even when stretched, and can prevent fraying and run.

Next, the false-twisted composite textured yarn of the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. Each evaluation in the examples of the present invention was evaluated by the following methods.

[Evaluation of whether the false twisted composite textured yarn is formed only at the spread part]
FIG. 5 is a conceptual diagram explaining a method for evaluating whether or not the false-twisted composite textured yarn is formed only at the open portion.

The false-twisted composite textured yarn is untwisted from the package so as not to be twisted. The unwound yarn end is fixed, the yarn is cut at a point 100 cm from the fixed point, and a load 501 of 0.08826 cN/dtex is applied to suspend the false twisted composite textured yarn. The elastic fibers and the non-elastic fibers are separated (the load may be temporarily removed when separating) immediately below the fixed end of the false twisted composite textured yarn, and hooks 502 and 503 are hooked on the respective fibers. Slowly moving one hook 502 to the left and the other hook 503 to the right separates the elastic and inelastic fibers. This is repeated three times, and if the separation length is 10 cm or more in all three times, it is determined that the fibers are formed substantially only by the spread portion. The longer the length to be separated, the better, and it is desirable that the whole thread (100 cm) can be separated.

In addition, the separated length described in the table showed the smallest value among the three evaluated.

[The ridges and valleys of elastic fibers in false-twisted composite textured yarn]
The false-twisted composite textured yarn is untwisted from the package so as not to be twisted. Set (both ends fixed) at 400 mm so that a load of 0.08826 cN/dtex is applied to the twister. Remove the load, separate the elastic fibers from the inelastic fibers, cut near the fixed point of the inelastic fibers to remove the inelastic fibers, and leave only the elastic fibers.

The fixing interval is narrowed to a state where the elastic fibers are in a slack state, can move freely, and peaks and valleys appear. Leave in this state for 3 minutes. Next, the fixing interval is widened until the number of ridges and valleys of the elastic fibers can be easily observed, and the fixing interval D is measured. An arbitrary position of the elastic fiber fixed at both ends is placed on the frame of a striped loupe having a frame with an opening of 25.4 mm × 25.4 mm (the frame has a 1-inch scale: manufactured by Vixen, product number A product equivalent to 4164-00 is preferable, and this was used in this evaluation.) with double-sided tape. The inelastic fibers are then cut outside the frame. The elastic fiber attached to the frame is observed under a microscope at a magnification of 20 times. Count the number of peaks and valleys A between 25.4 mm with both the inch scale on the frame and the elastic fiber on the monitor screen It is easier to count if you mark them.) The number of peaks and valleys of the elastic yarn in the false twisted composite textured yarn is (A (pieces)×D (m))/(0.0254 (m)×0.4 (m)) (pieces/m). Measure three times and take the average value as the number of peaks and valleys.

FIG. 4 is a conceptual diagram for explaining a method for evaluating the number of peaks and valleys of elastic fibers in a false twisted composite textured yarn. As shown in FIG. 4, one set of peaks and valleys is counted. If it is looped like the 13th one in FIG. 4, it is counted as one. Count as 0.5 if it ends with only a mountain as in the right end of FIG.

[Presence or absence of swirlability of elastic yarn in false-twisted composite textured yarn]
The false-twisted composite textured yarn is untwisted from the package so as not to be twisted. Set (both ends fixed) at 200 mm so that a load of 0.08826 cN/dtex is applied to the twister. Remove the load, separate the elastic fiber from the inelastic fiber, cut near the fixed point of the inelastic fiber, remove the inelastic fiber, and leave only the elastic fiber. One fixed end that fixes the elastic fiber is moved to the other fixed end so that the gripping distance is 5 mm. At this time, if the inelastic fiber rotates two times or more, it is determined that the fiber has swirlability.

[Stretch recovery rate]
The stretch recovery rate was measured according to JIS L 1013:2010 "Chemical fiber filament yarn test method" 8.12. As a pretreatment before the measurement, the skein-shaped sample to be measured was treated with warm water for 20 minutes at a temperature of 90°C for polyester, 60°C for nylon, and 70°C for polypropylene while wrapped in gauze. , air-dried at room temperature 20°C. After about 12 hours, the elastic recovery rate was measured according to 8.12 above.

[Elongation]
JIS L 1096: 2010 "Testing methods for woven and knitted fabrics" 8.16.1 A method (constant speed elongation method), tensile speed: 300 mm / min, grip interval: 100 mm, test piece width: 25 mm, constant load: The elongation rate was measured as 14.7N.

[Elongation recovery rate]
JIS L 1096: 2010 "Fabric test method for woven and knitted fabrics" 8.16.2 A method (repeated constant speed constant elongation method), tensile speed: 300 mm / min, grip interval: 100 mm, test piece width: 25 mm, constant Elongation: The elongation recovery rate was measured at 80% of the above elongation rate and the number of repetitions was 3.

[Load at elongation rate of 50% and 100%]
Read the load at the elongation rate of 50% and 100% in the elongation rate (%)-load (N) curve obtained from the start of the first pulling of the elongation recovery rate until constant elongation.

[Texture]
・Evaluation of soft feeling was evaluated by a skilled person according to the following 4-step evaluation method, and indicated by ⊚, ◯, Δ and ×.
⊚: The texture gives a particularly strong feeling of softness when touched with a hand.
◯: The texture gives a soft feeling when touched with a hand.
△: A texture that feels a little soft when touched with a hand.
x: A texture that does not give a soft feeling when touched with a hand.

[Evaluation of resistance to fraying and evaluation of shape stability]
A knitted fabric 601 was cut into a rectangle of 200 mm in the wale direction×100 mm in the course direction. As shown in FIG. 6(a), a line was drawn with an oil-based pen at a position 50 mm from the edge of the fabric. The specimen was set in a gripping jig (fixed) 602 and a gripping jig (movable to the upper limit) 603 of the gripping portion of the Demacher type cyclic extension/contraction tester with a grip interval of 100 mm and a sample piece width of 100 mm. (Fig. 6(b))

The origin (elongation rate 0%, FIG. 6(b)) and the set position (fabric elongation rate 50%, FIG. 6(c)) were reciprocated 50 times/min, and the elongation test was repeated 10,000 times. . After completion of the test, the fabric was removed from the Demacher-type repeated elongation/shrinkage tester, and the presence or absence of thread fraying on the cut surface of the fabric was checked. When there was no fraying, it was judged that the filly cutting property was good. Also, check if there is any change in the spacing of the lines drawn with the permanent marker. Form stability was determined when the interval change was less than 2%.

(Example 1)
Using the apparatus shown in FIG. and the second feed roller 304 , while the inelastic fiber was unwound from the package and fed to the second feed roller 304 . The elastic fibers and non-elastic fibers coming out of the second feed roller 304 are twisted by the twisting body 307 (friction disc), and in the twisted state, the heater ( The film was stretched 1.7 times at a temperature of 180° C. and heat set. The yarn exiting the heater was cooled. When this cooled yarn passed through the twisting body, it was untwisted into a non-twisted state and passed through delivery rollers 308 . After exiting the delivery roller 308, the elastic fibers in the yarn tend to return to the state before drawing, so the crimps of the elastic fibers and the non-elastic fibers are out of phase, and the non-elastic fibers and the elastic fibers are shifted due to the fastener effect. In the state where it became difficult, it was wound up on a paper tube with a take-up roller. The obtained yarn was a false-twisted composite textured yarn composed only of the open portions.

The resulting yarn was knitted into a smooth weave on a 40 gauge 33 inch (83.8 cm) circular knitting machine. When the obtained yarn was unwound from the cheese, the elastic fibers and the inelastic fibers did not separate from each other, and the knitting property was good.

The obtained circular knitted fabric was opened, and subjected to relaxation refining (temperature of 95° C.), presetting (temperature of 185° C.), dyeing with disperse dyes (temperature of 130° C.), and final setting (temperature of 150° C.). An attempt was made to unknit the fabric after presetting and the fabric after final setting using tweezers, but it was not possible to unknit, and it was confirmed that the polyurethane fibers were fused to each other. Further, the fabric after the final setting was reduced with alkali to completely dissolve the polyethylene terephthalate fibers. The fabric after dissolution was composed of only polyurethane fibers, and the polyurethane fibers were strongly fused together at the contact points of the loops.

The elongation rate was 190.1% in the vertical direction and 198.2% in the horizontal direction. The elongation recovery rate was as good as 90.1% vertically and 91.9% horizontally. Table 1 shows the results.

(Example 2)
Polyurethane fibers of 22 dtex-2 filaments are used as elastic fibers, and nylon 6 fibers of 41 dtex-26 filaments are used as inelastic fibers. It is stretched 3.6 times between the feed rollers 304 while the inelastic fibers are unwound from the package and fed to the second feed roller 304 . The elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn coming out of the second feed roller 304 are twisted by a twisting body 307 (friction disc), and in the twisted state, the heater ( It is stretched 1.25 times at a temperature of 170° C. and heat set. The yarn exiting the heater is cooled. When it passed through the twisting body, it was untwisted into a non-twisted state and passed through delivery rollers 308 . After exiting the delivery roller 308, the elastic yarn tries to return to the state before stretching, so the crimp phases of the elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn are shifted, and the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn are less likely to be displaced due to the fastener effect. Then, it was wound onto a paper tube with a take-up roller. The obtained yarn was a yarn composed only of the open portion.

The resulting yarn was knitted into a smooth weave on a 40 gauge 33 inch (83.8 cm) circular knitting machine. When the obtained yarn was unwound from the cheese, the elastic fibers and the inelastic fibers did not separate from each other, and the knitting property was good.

The obtained circular knitted fabric was opened, and subjected to relaxation refining (temperature of 95°C), presetting (temperature of 190°C), dyeing processing with an acid dye (temperature of 95°C), and final setting (temperature of 170°C). An attempt was made to unknit the fabric after presetting and the fabric after final setting using tweezers, but it was not possible to unknit, and it was confirmed that the polyurethane fibers were fused to each other. Also, the fabric after the final setting was immersed in formic acid to completely dissolve the nylon. The fabric after dissolution was composed of only polyurethane fibers, and the polyurethane fibers were strongly fused together at the contact points of the loops.

The elongation rate was 172.4% in the vertical direction and 188.3% in the horizontal direction. The elongation recovery rate was as good as 89.0% vertically and 88.5% horizontally. Table 1 shows the results.

(Comparative example 1)
After the delivery roller 308 of Example 1, an interlacing nozzle and a fourth roller 309 were installed to interlace the elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn, and then wind them onto a paper tube with a winding roller. The obtained yarn was a yarn in which open portions and converging portions were alternately present.

The resulting yarn was knitted into a smooth weave on a 40 gauge 33 inch (83.8 cm) circular knitting machine. The obtained circular knitted fabric was opened, and subjected to relaxation refining (temperature of 95° C.), presetting (temperature of 185° C.), dyeing with disperse dyes (temperature of 130° C.), and final setting (temperature of 150° C.). An attempt was made to unknit the fabric after presetting and the fabric after final setting using tweezers, but it was not possible to unknit, and it was confirmed that the polyurethane fibers were fused to each other. Also, after the final setting, the fabric was reduced in weight with an alkali to completely dissolve the polyethylene terephthalate. The fabric after dissolution was composed only of polyurethane fibers, and the polyurethane fibers were generally strongly fused together at the points of contact of the loops. Since the polyurethane fibers do not contact each other, there were some weak fusion areas. The elongation rate was 160.4% in the vertical direction and 185.9% in the horizontal direction. The transverse % was good at 82. Table 1 shows the results.

(Comparative example 2)
In Example 2, false twisting was performed using only 41 dtex-26 filament nylon 6 fibers as inelastic fibers without using elastic fibers. The false-twisted yarn thus obtained was a yarn composed only of the open portions. The elastic fiber:polyurethane fiber 22 dtex-2 filament (3.5 times draft ratio) and the resulting false twist yarn were plated using an elastic fiber feeder on a 40 gauge 33 inch (83.8 cm) circular knitting machine. and formed a smooth organization. (It is generally called bare smooth.) Polyurethane fibers taken out from the unwoven fabric did not exhibit crests and valleys, and did not have swirling properties.

The obtained circular knitted fabric was opened, and subjected to relaxation refining (temperature of 95°C), presetting (temperature of 190°C), dyeing processing with an acid dye (temperature of 95°C), and final setting (temperature of 170°C). Polyurethanes were fused to each other in the fabric after presetting. Polyurethane fibers were also fused to each other in the fabric after the final setting. An attempt was made to unknit the fabric after presetting and the fabric after final setting using tweezers, but it was not possible to unknit, and it was confirmed that the polyurethane fibers were fused to each other. In addition, the fabric after the final setting was immersed in formic acid to completely dissolve the nylon 6. The fabric after dissolution was composed of only polyurethane fibers, and the polyurethane fibers were strongly fused together at the contact points of the loops.

The elongation rate was 132.3% in the vertical direction and 219% in the horizontal direction. The width was 93.2%, and the results are shown in Table 1.

In the knitted fabric produced in Example 1, when compared with Comparative Example 1, which has the same total fineness, when the fabric is pulled in the vertical direction, the load applied at an elongation rate of 50% is slightly smaller or about the same. However, when the elongation rate is 100%, the applied load is small.

In addition, when comparing Example 2 and Comparative Example 2, when the fabric is pulled in the vertical direction, when the elongation rate is 50%, there is not much difference in the load between Example 2 and Comparative Example 2, but when the elongation rate is 100% In Comparative Example 2, a load of 5.6 N is applied, but in Example 2, the load applied is 3.8 N, which is lower than that of Comparative Example 2. This indicates that, for example, when used in a long-sleeved inner shirt, when the elbow is bent, Comparative Example 2 tends to give a tight feeling, but Example 2 hardly gives a tight feeling. This is because, in Comparative Example 2, in which the elastic fibers do not have ridges and valleys, the elastic fibers themselves are stretched from the region where the elongation rate is low. . On the other hand, in Example 2, since the elastic fibers have ridges and valleys, the ridges and valleys are stretched first in the region where the elongation rate is low, and the elongation rate becomes high. load is realized.

101: Spreading portion 102: Elastic fiber 103: Inelastic fiber 201: Converging portion 202: Spreading portion 301: Elastic fiber 302: Inelastic fiber 303: First feed roller 304: Second feed roller 305: Heater 306: Cooling Plate 307: twisting body (false twisting device)
308: Delivery roller 309: Fourth roller 310: Winding roller 311: Paper tube 312: False twist composite textured yarn 501: Load 502: Hook 503: Hook 601: Knitted fabric 602: Grip jig (fixed)
603: Grip jig (movable up and down)

Claims (10)

A false-twisted composite textured yarn comprising elastic fibers and non-elastic fibers, the false-twisted composite textured yarn being substantially formed only by the open portion, and the non-elastic fibers being multifilaments of thermoplastic synthetic fibers. A false-twisted composite yarn. 2. A false twisted composite textured yarn according to claim 1, wherein said elastic fibers are polyurethane fibers. 3. The false twisted composite textured yarn according to claim 2, wherein said polyurethane fibers have swirling properties. The false twisted composite textured yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the elastic fiber has a number of peaks and valleys in the longitudinal direction of the yarn of 50 to 500/1 m. The false-twisted composite textured yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4, which has a stretch recovery rate of 50% or more. A stretchable knitted fabric partially using the false twisted composite textured yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the elastic fibers are fused to each other at loop contact points. The stretchable knitted fabric according to claim 6, wherein the stretchable fabric has an elongation rate of 120% or more. The elastic knitted fabric according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the elastic knitted fabric has an elongation recovery rate of 80% or more. The elastic knitted fabric according to any one of claims 6 to 8, wherein the elastic knitted fabric has a vertical and horizontal elongation balance of 0.85 to 1.20. A garment comprising the elastic knitted fabric according to any one of claims 6 to 9, wherein the cut ends are exposed.

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