JP5688245B2 - Knitted fabric with excellent wear resistance - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a knitted fabric including polyester fibers having good wear resistance.

  Polyester fibers typified by polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as PET) are used in a wide range of applications regardless of clothing and materials because they are excellent in mechanical properties and handleability. Many developments of fibers and products that satisfy the required properties have been studied.

Abrasion resistance is one of the important required properties in garments and materials composed of woven and knitted fabrics containing polyester fibers, and there is a demand for knitted fabrics with excellent wear resistance.
When polyester fiber is mainly used for garments, especially sportswear such as game shirts and pants and outdoor wear (wear for outdoor activities such as climbing and camping), clothing and other objects (For example, contact with competitors or competition equipment, friction with a zack or rope, or rubbing with the ground, cliff, or vegetation) may cause fluffing or tearing.

  Generally, in terms of wear, polyester fibers are known to be slightly inferior to polyamide fibers such as nylon 66, but polyamide fibers are prone to light deterioration and yellowing and are not suitable for severe outdoor use. It is. Therefore, various investigations for improving the wear resistance of polyester fibers are underway.

  Conventionally, a method of increasing the draw ratio and obtaining a high-strength polyester is known. Further, Patent Document 1 below discloses a method of obtaining a high-strength polyester fiber by devising a stretching method when producing a polyester fiber. Yarns obtained by these production methods have high strength in the fiber axis direction, but are weak against external forces from other directions such as the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis, and wear occurs from all directions such as wear of clothing materials. Sufficient wear resistance cannot be obtained.

  Patent Document 2 below proposes a crimped yarn excellent in wear resistance for clothing having a flat cross section with increased intrinsic viscosity and strength. Although this crimped yarn is considered for clothing, it has a structure with increased strength and orientation, is still brittle in directions other than the fiber axis, and is not sufficiently durable against wear from all directions.

Various methods for improving the wear resistance by adding additives to polymers have been devised. For example, Patent Document 3 below proposes a fiber containing special silicon oxide particles and having a specific crystal structure and enhanced orientation.
However, the inclusion of particles generally decreases the strength of the yarn. Further, because of the structure with enhanced orientation, it is also brittle in directions other than the fiber axis, and the wearability in all directions such as Martindale wear is not sufficient.

In Patent Document 4 below, in order to suppress the occurrence of single yarn breakage and fluff due to friction between the interlace yarn used for the woven warp and the loom metal part, the polyester unstretched yarn is stretched to 0 A method has been proposed for improving wear by applying 2-5% relaxation heat treatment and fluid entanglement treatment.
However, this method can suppress the occurrence of single yarn breakage and fluff due to friction with yarns and loom parts during textile production to some extent, but clothing, especially outerwear such as windbreakers and down jackets, game shirts and pants, etc. It has been difficult to prevent tears caused by intense friction between clothing and other objects in sportswear and outdoor wear (outdoor activity wear such as climbing and camping).

  In particular, in recent years, there is an increasing need for thinning of a knitted fabric from the viewpoint of comfort and the like derived from “lightness of the fabric” (the weight per unit area of the fabric is small). In order to make the knitted fabric thin, fibers having fineness may be used. However, as the fineness of the fibers used is reduced, the abrasion resistance of the knitted fabric tends to decrease. Therefore, in recent years, there has been an increasing demand for improvement in wear resistance of fine fibers.

JP-A-4-245918 JP-A 63-309638 Japanese Patent No. 3277703 JP 58-18431 A

  The problem to be solved by the present invention is that, when used as clothing, especially sportswear, outdoor wear, it is difficult to fluff and tear against various friction between clothing and other objects, and has an excellent texture Another object of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric containing polyester fibers.

  As a result of intensive investigations and repeated experiments to solve the above problems, the present inventors have included polyester fibers with improved wear resistance by performing a specific range of relaxation heat treatment after the stretching treatment in the polyester fibers. It has been found that the knitted fabric is particularly effective in preventing tearing due to intense contact with other objects.

That is, the present invention is as follows.
[1] A knitted fabric excellent in abrasion resistance containing a polyester fiber containing 95 mol% or more of ethylene terephthalate as a repeating unit, and the following requirements (1) and (2):
(1) The fineness of the polyester fiber contained in at least one surface side constituting the knitted fabric is 8 to 200 dtex,
(2) The yarn abrasion strength of the polyester fiber contained on at least one surface side constituting the knitted fabric is 0.5 times / dtex or more.
The said knitted fabric characterized by satisfy | filling.

[2] The following requirement (3):
(3) The degree of crystallinity of the polyester fiber on at least one surface side constituting the knitted fabric is 60 to 90%, and the degree of orientation is 0.70 to 0.92.
The knitted fabric according to [1], further satisfying

[3] The following requirement (4):
(4) The single yarn fineness of the polyester fiber on at least one surface side constituting the knitted fabric is 1 dtex or more and 4 dtex or less,
The knitted fabric according to [1] or [2], further satisfying

  According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a polyester fiber having good wear resistance and particularly suitable for a thin knitted fabric. If the polyester fiber is used for a knitted fabric, sportswear such as a sports game shirt, game pants, and jersey. And outdoor wear (outdoor activity wear for mountaineering, camping, etc.) is not likely to cause fuzz due to rubbing of the side and thigh, and intense friction with clothing and other objects It is possible to provide wear that is less fuzzy and hard to tear against (e.g., contact with competitors and competition equipment, friction with a zack or rope, or rubbing with the ground, cliffs, or vegetation), and snagging It is possible to provide a knitted fabric that is excellent in suppressing effect. Moreover, the lightweight thinning of the clothing which requires these abrasion resistances can be achieved.

It is a stress-strain curve of the polyester yarn based on this invention. It is a differential Young's modulus-strain curve of the polyester yarn based on this invention. It is a stress-strain curve of the polyester yarn concerning other than this invention. It is a differential Young's modulus-strain curve of the polyester yarn concerning other than this invention. It is a stress-strain curve of the polyester yarn concerning other than this invention. It is a differential Young's modulus-strain curve of the polyester yarn concerning other than this invention. It is the schematic which shows an example of the spinning drawing heat processing equipment for obtaining the drawn yarn of the polyester fiber based on this invention. It is the schematic which shows an example of the equipment used when carrying out the relaxation heat processing of the drawn yarn of the polyester fiber concerning this invention. It is the schematic which shows an example of the direct-spinning drawing heat processing equipment of the polyester fiber based on this invention. It is the schematic of the thread | wear abrasion testing machine used for evaluation of this invention.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
In the present invention, the abrasion resistance means the performance against the frictional force (shearing force) when the fiber surface is rubbed with another object surface. Generally, the fibers are rubbed to cause a phenomenon (fibrillation) in which fibrils in a single yarn appear as fluff on the surface of the single yarn. In general, when fibrillation occurs, for example, the design and durability of the fabric surface are lowered, so that fibrillation is an undesirable phenomenon. Therefore, in order to improve the wear resistance, the point is how to prevent fibrillation.

  Polyester fibers drawn under normal conditions have a high degree of crystallinity and a high molecular orientation in the fiber length direction. On the other hand, in the polyester fiber of the present invention, for example, by performing a relaxation heat treatment in a specific range after the drawing treatment, the orientation of the polyester molecules in the fiber is disturbed to reduce the degree of orientation (orientation relaxation). The physical properties, particularly strength, elongation, and differential Young's modulus in the stress-strain curve (SS curve) can be made within a specific range.

FIG. 1 shows a typical stress-strain curve (SS curve) of the polyester fiber according to the present invention. As shown in FIG. 1, the polyester fiber of the present invention has a characteristic curve that has a flat portion in a low elongation region and then a high Young's modulus.
FIG. 2 shows a differential Young's modulus-strain curve, which is a graph obtained by differentiating FIG. 1 with respect to elongation. As shown in FIG. 2, the polyester fiber used in the knitted fabric of the present invention has a minimum value in the range of 2 to 5% in elongation and a maximum value in the range of 10 to 15%. Specifically, the minimum value of the differential Young's modulus of the yarn obtained in the present invention of 2% to 5% is 20 cN / dtex or less as shown in FIG. 2, and the elongation is 10 to 15%. The maximum value in the range is 23 cN / dtex or more.
The polyester fiber of the present invention having such differential Young's modulus behavior due to orientation relaxation has a large amount of energy due to frictional force (shearing force) when the frictional force (shearing force) is applied to the fiber surface. Since it is consumed, it is considered that fibrillation hardly occurs.

  The polyester used in the polyester fiber according to the present invention contains ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit, and contains 95% by mole or more, preferably 97% by mole or more, more preferably 99% by mole or more, and ethylene terephthalate as a repeating unit. Ethylene terephthalate may be a repeating unit at 100 mol%, or less than 5 mol% may be composed of repeating units of other esters. That is, the polymer used for the polyester fiber of the present invention may be a PET single structure or a copolymerized PET in which less than 5 mol% is a repeating unit of other ester.

The following are mentioned as a typical example of a copolymerization component.
Acidic components include aromatic dicarboxylic acids typified by isophthalic acid and 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, and aliphatic dicarboxylic acids typified by adipic acid and itaconic acid. Examples of the glycol component include ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, and polyethylene glycol.
Moreover, hydroxycarboxylic acids, such as hydroxybenzoic acid, are also mentioned. A plurality of these may be copolymerized.

  Further, the polyester fiber according to the present invention has a matting agent such as titanium oxide, a heat stabilizer, an antioxidant, an antistatic agent, an ultraviolet absorber, an antibacterial agent, and various kinds of materials within the range not hindering the effects of the present invention. Additives such as pigments may be contained, or these components may be contained by copolymerization.

The fineness of the polyester fiber according to the present invention is 8 dtex to 200 dtex. A preferred range is 20 dtex to 175 dtex, and a more preferred range is 30 to 167 dtex. If it is less than 8 dtex, the fineness is too fine, and yarn breakage is likely to occur during knitting, resulting in poor wear resistance. On the other hand, if it exceeds 200 dtex, the yarn becomes hard and the texture of the knitted fabric is not good. The abrasion resistance effect exhibited by the polyester fiber of the present invention is effective even for fine fineness, and particularly excellent abrasion resistance is exhibited even in a fine count of 30 to 84 dtex. As a result, even a lightweight, thin knitted fabric using these yarns, for example, a knitted fabric having a basis weight of 120 g / m ² or less, has excellent wear resistance.

  The single yarn fineness of the polyester fiber according to the present invention is 1 dtex or more and 4 dtex or less, preferably 1 dtex or more and 3.1 dtex or less. When the single yarn fineness is less than 1 dtex, the wear resistance is not good. On the other hand, when the single yarn fineness exceeds 4 dtex, the wear resistance is good, but the fibers are hard, so the texture of the knitted fabric is not good. Skin irritation is also likely to occur.

  The breaking strength of the polyester fiber according to the present invention is preferably 3.5 cN / dtex or more, more preferably 4 cN / dtex or more, and further preferably 4.5 cN / dtex or more. When the breaking strength is less than 3.5 cN / dtex, the wear resistance is not good. The higher the breaking strength, the better the characteristic value for improving the wear. However, the fiber becomes hard at 6 cN / dtex or more, which is not preferable in terms of wear resistance.

  The breaking elongation of the polyester fiber according to the present invention is preferably 20% or more and 50% or less, and more preferably 30% or more and 45% or less. If the elongation at break is less than 20%, the degree of orientation of the polyester molecules in the fiber increases, so that fibrillation is likely to occur, and good wear resistance cannot be obtained, while the elongation at break exceeds 50%. In addition, since it is difficult to set the breaking strength to 3.5 cN / dtex or more, the object of the present invention cannot be achieved.

  In the polyester fiber according to the present invention, the minimum differential Young's modulus in the region of the elongation of 2% or more and 5% or less in the fiber stress-strain curve is preferably 20 cN / dtex or less. More preferably, it is 2-15 cN / dtex, More preferably, it is 4-10 cN / dtex. If it exceeds 20 cN / dtex, the relaxation of the orientation of the polyester molecules in the fiber by relaxation heat treatment is not sufficient, and fibrillation occurs due to frictional force (shearing force), so that the wear resistance is not good.

The present invention is characterized in that a polyester fiber having a yarn wear strength by a yarn wear test of 0.5 times / dtex or more is contained on at least one surface side constituting the knitted fabric. The yarn wear strength is preferably 0.7 to 2.0 times / dtex. The yarn wear strength can be evaluated using a yarn wear tester shown in FIG. The yarn is cut out by 20 cm, and several yarns are arranged so that the total fineness becomes about 167 dtex, and a twist of about 10 times / m is put. A weight of 0.14 g / dtex is applied to a metal rod having a diameter of 1 cm on which # 800 abrasive paper is stuck, and the yarn is brought into contact therewith. The yarn is rubbed with an amplitude of 3 cm at a speed of 0.6 times / second, and the number of times until the yarn is broken (one reciprocation is one time) is defined as the number of yarn wear. The abrasive paper is rubbed in a new state by shifting the abrasive paper every 10 times so that the state of the abrasive paper does not change. Yarn wear strength is expressed by the following formula (3):
Yarn wear strength = Yarn wear frequency / Total fineness of fibers used in the test (3)
Is calculated by

  The polyester fiber contained in the knitted fabric of the present invention may remain untwisted or may be entangled or twisted for the purpose of improving convergence.

Next, the manufacturing method of the polyester fiber of this invention is described.
The intrinsic viscosity of the polyester fiber used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably in the range of 0.70 dl / g to 1.30 dl / g, more preferably 0.75 dl / g to 1.10 dl / g. It is a range. When the intrinsic viscosity is 0.70 dl / g or more, good wear resistance is easily obtained. In addition, when the intrinsic viscosity exceeds 1.30 dl / g, although the wear resistance is improved, the texture is hard and it is not preferable as a fiber used in a knitted fabric for clothing.

  In the production of the polyester fiber of the present invention, it is preferable that the undrawn yarn is stretched at 65% or more and 85% or less, preferably 70% or more and 80% or less of the limit draw ratio, and then subjected to relaxation heat treatment. The limit draw ratio (MD) of the undrawn yarn is represented by MD = (E + 100) / 100, where (E) is the breaking elongation of the undrawn yarn. When stretched at less than 65% of the limit stretch ratio, the breaking strength may be 3.5 cN / dtex or less. If the stretching exceeds 85% of the limit stretching ratio, thread breakage may occur frequently during the relaxation heat treatment.

  The present invention is characterized in that relaxation heat treatment is performed in any of the fiber and knitting manufacturing processes, such as during spinning, after spinning, and during processing of a knitted fabric. The relaxation heat treatment can increase the crystallinity and suppress the degree of orientation. When the relaxation heat treatment is performed at the time of spinning the fiber or in the yarn state after spinning, the heat treatment temperature is preferably in the temperature range of 120 ° C. or higher and 220 ° C. or lower, more preferably 150 ° C. or higher and 200 ° C. or lower. . When the temperature is less than 120 ° C., the orientation effect of the polyester itself is low, so even when combined with relaxation heat treatment, the orientation relaxation effect of the polyester molecules in the fiber is not sufficient, and good wear resistance cannot be obtained, On the other hand, when it exceeds 220 ° C., it becomes close to the melting point of the polyester, and thus fuzz and yarn breakage are likely to occur by heat treatment.

In the present invention, the relaxation rate during the relaxation heat treatment in the yarn state is preferably 5% or more and 15% or less, more preferably 7% or more and 12% or less. The relaxation rate is determined by the speed (Vk) of the supply roll 14 and the speed (Vr) of the relaxation roll 16 in FIG. 8, or the speed (V ₂ ) of the second roll 11 and the speed of the third roll 20 (V ₃ ), the relaxation rate = ((Vk−Vr) / Vk) × 100 or ((V ₂ −V ₃ ) / V ₂ ) × 100. Even in the case of relaxation heat treatment using an apparatus other than FIG. 8 or FIG. 9, the relaxation rate is similarly determined by the ratio of the yarn speed before and after the heat treatment (usually expressed by the roll speed).

When the relaxation rate is less than 5%, the orientation relaxation effect of the polyester molecules in the fiber is not sufficient, and good wear resistance cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when the relaxation rate exceeds 15%, the relaxation heat treatment is not performed. The process tension is lowered and the spinnability is not good.
Thus, after the stretching, by performing a relaxation heat treatment for the purpose of relaxing the thermal shrinkage and orientation of the polyester molecules in the fiber, the minimum differential Young's modulus in the region of elongation of 2% or more and 5% or less is 20 cN / dtex or less. Thus, a fiber having improved wear resistance can be obtained. The relaxation heat treatment may be carried out by the apparatus shown in FIG. 8 once drawn and wound by the spinning device shown in FIG. 7, or as shown in FIG. May be. Although the yarn tension decreases during the relaxation heat treatment, from the viewpoint of performing a stable relaxation heat treatment with a low tension, the yarn is stretched and wound up, and then the yarn travels from top to bottom according to gravity as shown in FIG. It is preferable to take over.

  Further, by selecting conditions that reduce the size of the knitted fabric in the dyeing or heat setting step after the knitted fabric is manufactured, it is possible to perform relaxation heat treatment of the fibers in the knitted fabric.

  When relaxation heat treatment is performed at the time of knitting processing, the knitting processing process is usually performed after refining, and then an intermediate set is performed, followed by a dyeing process, and then a final set is performed. It is particularly effective to relax at a relatively high temperature of 170 ° C. to 210 ° C. by width insertion or chasing treatment. The width insertion is a process for reducing the dimension in the knitted fabric width direction, and the driving-in is a process for reducing the dimension in the knitting warp direction. The integrated value of the dimensional reduction rate due to width insertion and driving-in is preferably 2 to 15%, more preferably 5 to 12% with respect to the dimension before processing. As an example, when the relaxation heat treatment is performed at a width insertion rate of 5% and a drive-in rate of 3%, the integrated dimension value after processing is (1-0.05) × (1-0) with respect to the integrated dimension value 1 before processing. .03) = 0.9215, and the integrated value of the dimension reduction rate is 7.85%. Within this range, the polyester fiber in the knitted fabric can be subjected to the same treatment as the relaxation treatment corresponding to a relaxation rate of 5 to 15% in the yarn state. The heat treatment temperature is desirably 15 seconds to 120 seconds, and particularly desirably 30 seconds to 100 seconds. In addition, it is desirable that the wrinkles be stretched as much as possible without making any tension as much as possible during the final setting. Even when the relaxation heat treatment is performed in the yarn state described above, it is important not to apply heat in a tension state at a temperature higher than the relaxation heat treatment temperature during knitting. By heat relaxation treatment with these yarns or knitted fabrics, it becomes possible to lower the orientation while increasing the crystallinity of the polyester fibers, and a knitted fabric with excellent wear resistance can be obtained.

The polyester fibers contained in the knitted fabric of the present invention preferably have a crystallinity of 60% to 90% and an orientation of 0.70 to 0.92.
The crystallinity referred to in the present invention is a wide angle X-ray measurement of a polyester fiber, and in a scattering intensity graph of 5 ° ≦ 2θ ≦ 40 °, a baseline is drawn at 2θ = 5 ° and 40 °, When the intensity of θ = 19.5 ° is A as the peak value and the intensity of θ = 25.5 is B as the peak value of the crystal part, the following formula (1):
B / (A + B) × 100 (1)
The value (%) calculated by

Further, the degree of orientation referred to in the present invention refers to the measurement of the transmission fiber wide-angle X-ray, and the peak intensity and the back with respect to the azimuth dependence I (φ) of the diffraction intensity derived from the (100) plane of the polyester. The ground level is obtained, the peak width (full width at half maximum of the peak) at the position where the intensity of I (φ) is (peak intensity−background) / 2 + background, and the following formula (2):
f = 1−Δ / 360 (2)
It is a value calculated by {in the formula, Δ: sum of full widths at half maximum (FWHM) of peaks found in I (φ) (deg)}. When obtaining I (φ), it is necessary to integrate diffraction intensity at 24 <2θ <28 ° and perform necessary correction such as empty cell correction. As is apparent from the above formula (2), f = 1 when the crystal is completely oriented, and f = 0 when the crystal is not oriented.

When the degree of crystallinity is less than 60%, the crystallization is not sufficiently advanced and the wear strength is lowered. On the other hand, if it exceeds 90%, the texture becomes hard, which is not preferable.
If the degree of orientation is 0.70 or more, excellent wear resistance can be expressed, but if the degree of orientation exceeds 0.92, the orientation is strong, so that it is strong in the fiber axis direction and effective for increasing the strength of the fiber. However, the directions other than the fiber axis are weakened, which is not preferable in terms of wear resistance in the present invention. The abrasion resistance in the present invention is excellent in resistance to friction from all directions that occurs when clothing is worn, and therefore, abrasion resistance in all directions is required. If there is a weak direction, wear starts from there, which is not preferable.
The particularly preferable ranges of the crystallinity and the orientation vary depending on the presence or absence of false twisting. If it is a polyester fiber that is not false twisted, a crystallinity of 65 to 80% and an orientation degree of 0.70 to 0.88 are particularly preferred. If it is a false twisted fiber, the crystallinity of 60 to 90% and the orientation A degree of 0.85 to 0.92 is particularly preferred.

  When the polyester fiber subjected to relaxation heat treatment is false twisted, it is preferably false twisted at a low temperature of 180 to 200 ° C. and subjected to relaxation heat treatment at a temperature equal to or higher than the false twist temperature. Similarly, in the case of performing a relaxation heat treatment on a knitted fabric containing false twisted polyester fibers, false twisting is preferably performed at a low temperature of 180 ° C to 200 ° C. At the time of false twisting, heat of 200 ° C. to 210 ° C. is usually applied, and the yarn is processed in a tension state. In this case, since the set temperature in post-processing is usually lower than the false twisting temperature, the relaxation effect at the time of setting is hardly exhibited. By performing false twisting at a relatively low temperature of 180 to 200 ° C. and performing a relaxation heat treatment at a temperature equal to or higher than the false twisting temperature, the degree of crystallinity can be increased and the orientation can be suppressed, and the knitted fabric has excellent wear resistance. The false twisting may be performed in any of the steps of 1 heater (1H) and 2 heaters (2H), and may be subjected to interlacing before or after false twisting. In the case of 2H false twisting, the higher heater temperature should satisfy the above conditions. In the false twisting process, tension is generally applied at a very high temperature, so that the crystallization progresses and the orientation becomes higher.In the present invention, by controlling the temperature and relaxation rate of the false twisting and post-processing, Even in this case, the crystallinity can be 60 to 90% and the orientation can be 0.85 to 0.92.

The single yarn cross-sectional shape of the polyester fiber according to the present invention may be an irregular cross-section such as a circle, Y, or W shape, or a hollow cross-section, and is not particularly limited.
The polyester fiber according to the present invention may be used alone or in combination with other fibers. Examples of other composite fibers include, but are not limited to, other polyester fibers, nylon, acrylic, cupra, rayon, polyurethane elastic fibers, and the like. Although the knitted fabric which consists only of the polyester fiber of this invention may be sufficient, at least one part or all of the fiber distribute | arranged to the surface of one side, Preferably 50% or more should just be a polyester fiber concerning this invention.

  The knitted fabric of the present invention can be refined, dyed and finished by conventional methods, and the type of finish is appropriately selected depending on the use of the polyester fiber to be used. However, as described above, it is not preferable to perform treatment at a temperature equal to or higher than the treatment temperature in the thermal relaxation process in a tensioned state because the thermal relaxation effect is impaired.

  The knitting structure of the knitted fabric containing the polyester fiber of the present invention may be either circular knitting or warp knitting. In particular, a knitting structure such as a four-step smooth which is likely to cause snagging has an effect of improving snag and can be used preferably.

  The knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably N (NONE) or L (LOW) in terms of wear and abrasion by an ART wear test. The wear situation in the actual wearing of the knitted fabric for clothing can be evaluated by an ART wear test, and it is effective to improve the wear resistance in the ART wear test in order to increase the wear resistance during wearing.

The knitted fabric of the present invention is excellent in feel and wear resistance, and can be applied to various clothing fields. In particular, it is suitable for outer clothing such as windbreakers, down jackets, sportswear, outdoor wear and the like, which often rub against each other when worn. Especially, it is suitable for sportswear and outdoor wear that is worn in harsh environments and often rubs against others.
Knitting of the present invention, it is preferred basis weight is 80~350g / m ^2. When the basis weight is within this range, it is possible to obtain a knitted fabric having excellent wear resistance while maintaining the knitted fabric performance required for clothing use. In the present invention, in particular, a knitted fabric using a fine fiber polyester fiber having a fineness of 30 to 84 dtex also has excellent wear resistance. As a result, lightweight and thin knitted fabrics using these yarns, such as knitted fabrics with a basis weight of 120 g / m ² or less, have excellent wear resistance, so that both thinning and weight reduction and improved wear resistance are compatible. Can do.

EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to the examples.
The measurement method and evaluation method used are as follows.

(1) Fineness, breaking strength, breaking elongation Measured under the following conditions based on JIS-L-1013 (chemical fiber filament yarn testing method). The single yarn fineness was calculated by dividing the fineness of the yarn by the number of filaments.
Test piece length: 200 mm
Tensile speed: 200 mm / min
Number of measurements: 5 times / sample

(2) Minimum differential Young's modulus The breaking strength was measured in the same manner as in (1) above. Using the stress-elongation measurement value every 0.25 sec, the stress at each point is differentiated by the elongation, and from the obtained differential Young's modulus curve, the differential in the region of elongation 2% or more and 5% or less The minimum value of Young's modulus was defined as the minimum differential Young's modulus.

(3) Intrinsic viscosity A sample polymer is dissolved in orthochlorophenol (hereinafter abbreviated as OCP), and a relative viscosity ηr at a plurality of points is obtained using an Ostwald viscometer at a temperature of 25 ° C. I asked for it.

(4) Limit draw ratio Undrawn yarn was collected immediately before the first roll (10) in FIG. 7 or 9, and the limit draw ratio was calculated based on JIS-L-1013 (chemical fiber filament yarn test method). . The limit draw ratio (MD) of the undrawn yarn is represented by MD = (E + 100) / 100, where (E) is the breaking elongation of the undrawn yarn.

(5) Yarn Abrasion Evaluation was performed using a yarn wear tester shown in FIG. The yarn is cut out by 20 cm, and several yarns are arranged so that the total fineness becomes about 167 dtex, and a twist of about 10 times / m is put. A weight of 0.14 g / dTex is applied to a metal rod having a diameter of 1 cm on which # 800 abrasive paper is attached to bring the yarn into contact therewith. The yarn is rubbed with an amplitude of 3 cm at a speed of 0.6 times / second, and the number of times until the yarn is broken (one reciprocation is one time) is defined as the number of yarn wear. The abrasive paper is rubbed in a new state by shifting the abrasive paper every 10 times so that the state of the abrasive paper does not change. The yarn wear strength is calculated by the following formula (3).
Yarn wear strength = Yarn wear frequency / Total fineness of fibers used in the test (3)

(6) ART wearability The knitted fabric was subjected to a wear test based on JIS L1076 (ART method). The number of wear was 60, and evaluation was performed using N (NONE), L (LOW), M (MEDIAUM), and H (HIGH).

(7) Texture In the texture, “O” was evaluated when 9 or more of 10 skilled inspectors judged good, and “X” was evaluated for other cases. All the 10 people evaluated as “◎” for those judged to be particularly soft and excellent in texture.

[Production Example 1]
The following is a method for producing the yarn used on the front side of Example 5.
By using the spinning machine as shown in FIG. 7, stretching between the first roll and the second roll, and after winding up, using the apparatus shown in FIG. 8, by performing a relaxation heat treatment between the supply roll and the relaxation roll, An 84 dtex / 24 filament fiber according to the present invention was produced. The manufacturing conditions used are as shown below.

(Spinning conditions)
Pellet drying temperature and moisture content reached: 155 ° C., 10 ppm
Extruder temperature: 295 ° C
Spin head temperature: 300 ° C
Spinneret: A base having 24 holes with a diameter of 0.25 mmΦ per base Hot distance: 135 mm
Cooling air conditions: Temperature; 22 ° C., relative humidity; 90%, speed: 0.4 m / sec
Finishing agent: Water-based emulsion mainly composed of polyether ester (concentration 15wt%)
Finishing agent application rate: 0.75%
Distance from spinneret to finisher application nozzle: 100cm

(Winding condition)
First roll: speed: 1500 m / min, temperature: 90 ° C
Second roll: speed; 3975 m / min, temperature; 130 ° C.
Winding machine: SA-608 machine (Asahi Engineering Co., Ltd.)
Twill Angle: 5.8 degrees

(Relaxation heat treatment)
Supply roll: speed; 555 m / min, temperature: 85 ° C.
Hot plate temperature: 160 ° C
Relax roll: speed; 500 m / min, temperature; unheated (room temperature)
Relaxation tension: 0.25 cN / dtex
Relaxation rate: 10%
Winding amount: 1kg / 1 pi

[Example 1]
A polyester filament having a round cross section of 166 dtex 48 filaments having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.75 manufactured according to the production conditions of Production Example 1 without performing a relaxation heat treatment is obtained using a 1H false twister. False twisting was performed at a speed of 577 m / min and a draft of 1.75 at 190 ° C. Thereafter, a knitted fabric having a four-stage smooth structure was produced with a double knitting machine. After scouring, the obtained knitted fabric was preset at 200 ° C. for 30 seconds and a width filling rate of 10%, and then dyed and dried by a liquid dyeing machine using a conventional method. Thereafter, final setting was performed at 170 ° C. for 20 seconds with a width setting to stretch the wrinkles.
As shown in Table 1 below, the characteristics of the obtained knitted fabric were excellent in abrasion resistance and good in texture.

[Example 2]
Knitting and processing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a 34 dtex 12 filament round cross-section polyester filament having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.85 was used.
As shown in Table 1, the characteristics of the obtained knitted fabric were excellent in wear resistance and good in texture.

[Example 3]
A polyester filament with an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.70 and 84 dtex 24 filaments on the front side, and a polyester processed yarn (false twisting at 210 ° C.) of 84 dtex 72 filaments with an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.56 on the back side A mesh knitted fabric was used. After scouring, the obtained knitted fabric was pre-set at 200 ° C. for 30 seconds and a width filling rate of 10%, and then dyed and dried by a liquid dyeing machine using a conventional method. Thereafter, final setting was performed at 170 ° C. for 20 seconds with a width setting to stretch the wrinkles. As shown in Table 1 below, the characteristics of the obtained knitted fabric were excellent in abrasion resistance and good in texture.

[Example 4]
Using a 28 GG tricot knitting machine, the front has an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.75, a polyester W-type cross-section processed yarn 56 dtex / 30f, and the middle has an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.68 and a polyester round cross-section processed yarn 56 dtex / 24f was knitted with a tricot half structure as polyurethane fiber 44 dtex on the back. The same processing as in Example 1 was performed to obtain a knitted fabric with a basis weight of 255 g / m ² . The characteristics of the obtained knitted fabric measured with the surface constituted by the yarn supplied from the front kite as shown in Table 1 were excellent in abrasion resistance and texture.

[Example 5]
A polyester filament of 84 dtex 24 filaments with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.85 and a round cross section obtained in Production Example 1 was used at a temperature of 190 ° C. with a yarn speed of 577 m / min and a draft of 1.75 using a 1H false twister. False twisting was performed. Thereafter, a knitted fabric having a four-stage smooth structure was produced with a double knitting machine. After scouring, the obtained knitted fabric was pre-set at 200 ° C. for 30 seconds and a width filling rate of 10%, and then dyed and dried by a liquid dyeing machine using a conventional method. Thereafter, final setting was performed at 170 ° C. for 20 seconds with a width setting to stretch the wrinkles. As shown in Table 1 below, the characteristics of the obtained knitted fabric were excellent in wear resistance and good in texture.

[Comparative Example 1]
The polyester fiber false twist was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the temperature was 210 ° C / 150 ° C at 2H. The characteristics of the obtained knitted fabric were inferior in wear resistance as shown in Table 1 below.

[Comparative Example 2]
A knitted fabric similar to that of Example 1 was knitted and processed except that a polyester fiber of 17 dtex 12 filament having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.56 was used. The characteristics of the obtained knitted fabric were inferior in wear resistance as shown in Table 1 below.

[Comparative Example 3]
A knitted fabric similar to that of Example 1 was knitted and processed except that a polyester filament of 84 dtex 144 filament having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.75 was used.
The characteristics of the obtained knitted fabric were inferior in wear resistance as shown in Table 1 below.

[Comparative Example 4]
A knitted fabric similar to that of Example 3 was knitted and processed except that the preset of Example 3 was subjected to a 20% widening treatment at 190 ° C.
The characteristics of the obtained knitted fabric were inferior in wear resistance as shown in Table 1 below.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a knitted fabric containing polyester fibers having good wear resistance. Therefore, a knitted fabric using such fibers is produced between clothing, especially sportswear, outdoor clothing, and other clothing. Resistant to violent contact friction with objects, it has excellent texture. Moreover, the lightweight thinning of the clothing which requires these abrasion resistances can be achieved.

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Polymer dryer 2 Extruder 3 Bend 4 Spin head 5 Spin pack 6 Spinneret 7 Non-air blowing area 8 Cooling air 9 Finishing agent provision nozzle 10 1st roll 11 2nd roll 12 Fiber cheese 13 Fiber cheese 14 Supply roll 15 Hot plate 16 Relax Roll 17 Guide 18 Traveler Guide 19 Fiber Pan 20 Third Roll 21 Movable Arm 22 Motor 23 Strut 24 Abrasion Paper 25 Sample 26 Load

Claims (3)

A knitted fabric excellent in abrasion resistance containing a polyester fiber containing 95 mol% or more of ethylene terephthalate as a repeating unit, and the following requirements (1) to (3) :
(1) The total fineness of the polyester fibers contained in at least one surface side constituting the knitted fabric is 8 to 200 dtex.
(2) The yarn abrasion strength of the polyester fiber contained on at least one surface side constituting the knitted fabric is 0.5 times / dtex or more, and
(3) The degree of crystallinity of the polyester fiber on at least one surface side constituting the knitted fabric is 60 to 90%, and the degree of orientation is 0.70 to 0.92.
The said knitted fabric characterized by satisfy | filling. The following requirement (4):
(4) The single yarn fineness of the polyester fiber on at least one surface side constituting the knitted fabric is 1 dtex or more and 4 dtex or less,
The knitted fabric according to claim 1, further satisfying The following requirement (5):
  (5) The minimum differential Young's modulus with an elongation of 2% or more and 5% or less in the stress-strain curve of the polyester fiber contained on at least one surface side constituting the knitted fabric is 20 cN / dtex.
The knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, further satisfying:

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