US20130260628A1

US20130260628A1 - Multi-Direction Stretch Fabric

Info

Publication number: US20130260628A1
Application number: US13/436,200
Authority: US
Inventors: II William Thomas Woods; Anthony Michael Tavares; Douglas Stanley Lumb; Daniel L. English
Original assignee: Swnr Development LLC
Current assignee: GEHRING-TRICOT Corp; Swnr Development LLC
Priority date: 2012-03-30
Filing date: 2012-03-30
Publication date: 2013-10-03

Abstract

A multi-direction stretch fabric includes a warp formed from first wrapped elastic fibers (e.g., nylon wrapped spandex) and a weft formed from a non-stretch fiber (e.g., wool) interlaced through the warp in a repeating half basket pattern alternating with a second wrapped elastic fiber (e.g., nylon wrapped spandex) interlaced through the warp in a repeating plain weave pattern.

Description

BACKGROUND

Textile manufacturers, garment makers, and others in similar industries have a continuing goal of creating or making available to consumers the most comfortable product for the intended end use.
Several factors, either alone or in combination, may affect the overall comfort of a particular product. Some factors are directly related to the characteristics of the fabric (or fabrics) used to construct the product. Such characteristics may include, but are not limited to, the weight, durability, and feel of the fabric, the ability to machine wash the fabric, and to what extent the fabric is stretchable.
Unfortunately, some fabric only permits two-way stretch (e.g., stretch in only the weft direction or stretch in only the warp direction). This may be based, at least in part, upon the particular fiber or fibers that were used to produce the fabric. For example, if a non-stretch fiber (e.g., wool) was used to make the fabric, the fabric may have limited or no stretch. If so, the overall comfort of the product made from that fabric may be limited.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

For a more complete understanding of the present disclosure, and the advantages thereof, reference is now made to the following descriptions taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of an embodiment of a multi-direction stretch fabric;

FIG. 2 is a perspective view of an embodiment wrapped elastic fiber used in a warp of the fabric of FIG. 1;

FIG. 3 is a perspective view of an embodiment wrapped elastic fiber used in a weft of the fabric of FIG. 1;

FIG. 4 is an embodiment of a method of forming the fabric of FIG. 1;

FIG. 5 is a chain draft of the fabric of FIG. 1 produced using the method of FIG. 4; and

FIG. 6 is a simplified fabric pattern for the fabric of FIG. 1.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

The making and using of the presently preferred embodiments are discussed in detail below. It should be appreciated, however, that the present disclosure provides many applicable inventive concepts that can be embodied in a wide variety of specific contexts. The specific embodiments discussed are merely illustrative and do not limit the scope of the disclosure.
Referring to FIG. 1, an embodiment multi-direction stretch fabric 10 is illustrated. As will be more fully explained below, the fabric 10 employs a non-stretch fiber in the weft yet provides sufficient four-way stretch (e.g., stretch in the weft direction and stretch in the warp direction). Indeed, the fabric 10 is able to stretch significantly in both the warp direction 12 and weft direction 14. As shown in FIG. 1, the fabric 10 generally includes a warp 16 and a weft 18 (a.k.a., the fill).
The warp 16 is formed from wrapped elastic fibers 20 (a.k.a., wrapped elastic yarn). While eight individual wrapped elastic fibers 20 are illustrated in FIG. 1, more of the wrapped elastic fibers 20 may be used to form the warp 16. In an embodiment, the warp 16 is able to stretch relative to its original, un-stretched length.
Referring now to FIG. 2, in an embodiment the wrapped elastic fibers 20 of the warp 16 are formed from nylon 22 wrapped around spandex 24 (e.g., Lycra®) using a conventional covering process. In an embodiment, the nylon 22 is single fiber end, seventy denier, and seventeen filament (1/70/17) nylon. In an embodiment, the nylon 22 is type 6-6 nylon. In an embodiment, the nylon 22 is wrapped around the spandex 24 at about seventeen turns per inch (TPI). The TPI number can be increased to provide more stretch or decreased to provide less stretch. In an embodiment, the nylon 22 may be dyed to provide the fabric 10 with an aesthetically pleasing color.
Still referring to FIG. 2, in an embodiment the spandex 24 is a forty denier spandex having a draft of approximately two and a half times (2.5×) its original, un-stretched length when wrapped. By way of example, the spandex 24 may be a spandex commercially available from Invista, which is a wholly-owned subsidiary of Koch Industries, Inc., a privately held company based in Wichita, Kans.
Referring back to FIG. 1, the weft 18 is formed from a non-stretch fiber 26 (a.k.a., non-stretch yarn) and a wrapped elastic fiber 28 (a.k.a., wrapped elastic yarn). The non-stretch fiber 26 is interlaced through the warp 16 in a repeating half basket pattern 30. As shown, the non-stretch fiber 26 alternates with the wrapped elastic fiber 28 in the warp 16.
The wrapped elastic fiber 28 is interlaced through the warp 16 in a repeating plain weave pattern 32. While only two individual non-stretch fibers 26 and two individual wrapped elastic fibers 28 are shown in FIG. 1, more of the fibers 26, 28 may be used to form the weft 18. In an embodiment, the weft 18 is able to stretch relative to its original, un-stretched length.
The non-stretch fiber 26 is wool 34. In an embodiment, the non-stretch fiber 26 is single wool yarn 34 having a size of 1/21's worsted count weight. In other embodiments the wool 34 may have a different size of yarn greater or less than 1/21's worsted count. In an embodiment, the wool 34 is de-scaled and pre-shrunk, which is sometimes referred to as super washed. In an embodiment, the wool may be dyed to provide the fabric 10 with an aesthetically pleasing color.
Referring now to FIG. 3, in an embodiment the wrapped elastic fibers 28 of the weft 18 are formed from nylon 36 wrapped around spandex 38 using the conventional covering process. The nylon 36 of the weft 18 may be the same as, or different than, the nylon 22 of the warp 16. Likewise, the spandex 38 of the weft 18 may be the same as, or different than, the spandex 24 of the warp 16.
In an embodiment, the nylon 36 is a single fiber end, seventy denier, and twenty-four filament (1/70/24) nylon. In an embodiment, the nylon 36 is type 6 nylon. In an embodiment, the nylon 36 is wrapped around the spandex 38 at about seventeen TPI. In an embodiment, the nylon 36 may be dyed to provide the fabric 10 with an aesthetically pleasing color.
In an embodiment, the weft 18 of the fabric 10 is about nineteen percent nylon 36 wrapped spandex 38 and about eighty-one percent wool 34 by volume. In an embodiment, the fabric 10 is approximately fifty-seven percent wool 34, thirty-seven percent nylon 22, 36, and six percent spandex 24, 38.
In FIG. 4, a simplified method 40 of forming the fabric 10 is illustrated. In block 42, the wrapped elastic fibers 20 are oriented to form the warp 16. In a simplified example of this process, numerous packages (i.e., spools) of the wrapped elastic fibers 20 are hung on a creel. The creel may simultaneously support several hundred of the packages (e.g., 700+).
With the packages on the creel, a warper head of a warper machine is employed to drive a section beam. As the section beam rotates, the wrapped elastic fibers 20 are drawn from their respective packages, under tension, and wrapped around the section beam. Several additional section beams may be formed in similar fashion. For example, six of the section beams laden with the wrapped elastic fibers 20 may be produced.
Once a desired number of the section beams are made, the section beams are joined together in a beaming process. In the beaming process, a hook reed having several dents, which function as spacers, are used to align several strands (i.e., yarns) of the wrapped elastic fibers 20. In an embodiment, six individual section beams are combined together on a warp beam (a.k.a., a loom beam) to form the warp 16.
Still referring to FIG. 4, in block 44 the non-stretch fibers 26 and the wrapped elastic fibers 28 are inserted through the warp 16 in the weft direction 14. In other words, each of the non-stretch fibers 26 and the wrapped elastic fibers 28 are interlaced through the warp 16. In a simplified example of this weaving process, ends of the non-stretch fibers 26 and the wrapped elastic fibers 28 are fed through heddles.
The heddles are disposed in harnesses, which are mounted on a loom. As the loom moves the heddles up and down, the non-stretch fibers 26 and the wrapped elastic fibers 28 of the weft 18 are woven into the wrapped elastic fibers 20 of the warp 16. As shown in FIG. 1, the non-stretch fibers 26 are interlaced through the warp 16 in the repeating half basket pattern 30 and the wrapped elastic fibers 28 are interlaced through the warp 16 in a repeating plain weave pattern 32 to form the weft 18 of the fabric 10.
Other processing may be formed on the fabric 10 or the components of the fabric 10. For example, the fabric 10 may be scour washed to remove any oils or foreign contaminants introduced during the weaving process. In addition, the fabric 10 may be dyed after being completed.
In an embodiment, the fabric 10 is relaxed using a steam process. By way of example, the fabric 10 may be rolled over a steam box and then through a trough of water. Thereafter, the fabric 10 is tumbled dry in a dryer (a.k.a., a compactor). The fabric 10 is generally dried without tension to control shrinkage. The fabric 10 may be dried at about 182° C. (about 360° F.) for a predetermined amount of time.
In an embodiment, the fabric 10 also undergoes one or more additional finishing processes. For example, a finish (e.g., a durable water repellent, an anti-microbial, one or more softeners, a substance to promote wicking, etc.) may be added to the fabric 10 through a padding process. In the padding process, the fabric 10 is fed through a trough containing a mixture of water and chemicals or additives. In some embodiments, heat or other processes may be used to cure the finish.
In an embodiment, a sufficient amount of heated is supplied for a predetermined amount of time in order to set the fabric 10. By setting the fabric 10 using heat, the width, weight, and/or stretch of the fabric 10 may be fixed.
Referring now FIG. 5, a chain draft 46 of the fabric 10 produced using the method 40 of FIG. 4 is illustrated. In FIG. 5, eight picks (a.k.a., fills or weft fibers) and eight harnesses are illustrated. However, more or fewer of the picks and harnesses could be present. As shown, the picks are counted on the vertical axis, but are interlaced on horizontal axis, and the harnesses are on the horizontal axis. The shaded squares marked with an “X” indicate where the non-stretch fibers 26 pass under the wrapped elastic fibers 20 of the warp 16. The non-shaded squares marked with an “X” indicate where the wrapped elastic fibers 28 pass under the wrapped elastic fibers 20 of the warp 16.
A simplified fabric pattern 48 corresponding to the chain draft 46 of FIG. 5 is illustrated in FIG. 6. FIG. 6 illustrates that the fabric 10 is formed using a four pick repeat.
The fabric 10 formed in the manner disclosed herein has numerous desirable characteristics and traits. In an embodiment, the fabric 10 is able to stretch between about fifteen percent (15%) and between about forty-five percent (45%) in each of the warp and weft directions 12, 14 relative to the original, un-stretched length. In an embodiment, the fabric 10 is able to stretch about thirty percent (30%) in each of the warp and weft directions 12, 14 relative to the original, un-stretched length. As another example, the fabric 10 is durable and machine washable, light-weight, and has good hand (i.e., feel). In addition, the fabric 10 also provides multi-directional stretch. As such, garments and other clothing items formed using the fabric 10 provide a high level of comfort to the wearer.
While this invention has been described with reference to illustrative embodiments, this description is not intended to be construed in a limiting sense. Various modifications and combinations of the illustrative embodiments, as well as other embodiments of the invention, will be apparent to persons skilled in the art upon reference to the description. It is therefore intended that the appended claims encompass any such modifications or embodiments.

Claims

What is claimed is:

1. A multi-direction stretch fabric, comprising:

a warp formed from first wrapped elastic fibers; and

a weft formed from a non-stretch fiber interlaced through the warp in a repeating half basket pattern alternating with a second wrapped elastic fiber interlaced through the warp in a repeating plain weave pattern.

2. The stretch fabric of claim 1, wherein the weft is able to stretch at least thirty percent.

3. The stretch fabric of claim 1, wherein the warp and the weft are each able to stretch at least thirty percent.

4. The stretch fabric of claim 1, wherein the first wrapped elastic fibers comprise nylon wrapped around spandex.

5. The stretch fabric of claim 4, wherein the nylon is type 6-6 nylon.

6. The stretch fabric of claim 4, wherein the nylon is wrapped around the spandex at about seventeen turns per inch.

7. The stretch fabric of claim 1, wherein the second wrapped elastic fiber comprises nylon wrapped around spandex.

8. The stretch fabric of claim 7, wherein the nylon is type 6 nylon.

9. The stretch fabric of claim 1, wherein the nylon is wrapped around the spandex at about seventeen turns per inch.

10. The stretch fabric of claim 1, wherein the second wrapped elastic fiber comprises dyed nylon wrapped around spandex.

11. The stretch fabric of claim 1, wherein the non-stretch fiber is wool.

12. The stretch fabric of claim 1, wherein the non-stretch fiber is super-washed wool.

13. The stretch fabric of claim 1, wherein the non-stretch fiber is single ply wool.

14. A multi-direction stretch fabric, comprising:

a warp formed from first nylon wrapped elastic fibers; and

a weft formed from a non-stretch fiber interlaced through the warp in a repeating half basket pattern alternating with a second nylon wrapped elastic fiber interlaced through the warp in a repeating plain weave pattern.

15. The stretch fabric of claim 14, wherein the non-stretch fiber is wool.

16. The stretch fabric of claim 14, wherein the warp and the weft are each able to stretch at least thirty percent relative to their original un-stretched length.

17. A method of forming a multi-stretch fabric, comprising:

orienting first wrapped elastic fibers to form a warp; and

alternatively interlacing a non-stretch fiber through the warp in a repeating half basket pattern and a second wrapped elastic fiber through the warp in a repeating plain weave pattern to form a weft.

18. The method of claim 17, further comprising wrapping nylon around spandex to form the first wrapped elastic fibers and the second wrapped elastic fiber.

19. The method of claim 17, further comprising forming the weft from the non-stretch fiber, the non-stretch fiber comprising wool.

20. The method of claim 17, further comprising forming the warp to stretch at least thirty percent from its original length.