WO2011001781A1 - W/o乳化化粧料 - Google Patents
W/o乳化化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2011001781A1 WO2011001781A1 PCT/JP2010/059425 JP2010059425W WO2011001781A1 WO 2011001781 A1 WO2011001781 A1 WO 2011001781A1 JP 2010059425 W JP2010059425 W JP 2010059425W WO 2011001781 A1 WO2011001781 A1 WO 2011001781A1
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- polyoxyalkylene
- modified silicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
Definitions
- the present invention relates to W / O emulsified cosmetics, and in particular to improvements in the feeling of use and emulsification stability.
- W / O emulsions are widely used in cosmetics, in particular, makeup cosmetics such as foundations and sunscreen cosmetics, because they have better cosmetics compared to O / W emulsions.
- Patent Document 1 Japanese Patent Publication No. 5-32363, Kao
- the present invention has been made in view of the background art described above, and an object of the present invention is to provide a W / O emulsified cosmetic having excellent usability and emulsification stability.
- a specific modified silicone is blended in a W / O emulsion cosmetic containing powder and a volatile component such as volatile oil or ethanol. Then, it was found that a W / O emulsified cosmetic having a very excellent usability and good emulsification stability can be obtained, and that this W / O emulsified cosmetic exhibits a characteristic friction behavior. . It has also been found that by further blending specific components, the dispersion stability of the powder, the viscosity stability of the composition, or the moisture retention can be improved without impairing the feeling of use and the emulsion stability. It came to be completed.
- the present invention provides a W / O emulsified cosmetic comprising the following components (A) to (F).
- A 0.1 to 5% by mass of polyoxyalkylene / alkyl co-modified silicone;
- B the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone is 0.2 to 3 times the mass of the component (A);
- C 5-50% by mass of powder;
- D 10-50% by mass of volatile oil;
- E 1-20% by weight of ethanol; and
- F water.
- this invention provides the W / O emulsified cosmetic characterized by containing sodium glutamate in any one of the said W / O emulsified cosmetics.
- the present invention also provides a W / O emulsified cosmetic comprising any one of the aforementioned W / O emulsified cosmetics, comprising an organically modified clay mineral and diglyceryl diisostearate.
- the present invention includes any one of the W / O emulsified cosmetics, comprising one or more nonvolatile oils selected from the group consisting of diethylhexyl succinate, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and dimethylpolysiloxane, and glycerin.
- a W / O emulsified cosmetic is provided.
- the present invention provides a W / O emulsified cosmetic, characterized in that in any one of the above W / O emulsified cosmetics, divalent glycol is 3% by mass or less in the cosmetic.
- (A) polyoxyalkylene / alkyl co-modified silicone, (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone, (C) powder, (D) volatile oil, and (E) ethanol are used in specific ratios.
- a W / O emulsified cosmetic exhibiting a characteristic friction behavior and excellent in feeling of use and emulsion stability can be obtained.
- sodium glutamate or organically modified clay mineral and diglyceryl diisostearate the dispersion stability of the powder and the viscosity stability of the composition can be improved without impairing the feeling of use and emulsion stability. Can do.
- nonvolatile oils selected from the group consisting of diethyl hexyl succinate, methylphenyl polysiloxane and dimethyl polysiloxane are blended with glycerin, moisture retention can be achieved without impairing the feeling of use and emulsion stability. Can be improved.
- the polyoxyalkylene / alkyl co-modified silicone used in the present invention has a linear or branched organopolysiloxane as the main skeleton and a polyoxyalkylene group and carbon number in the side chain. It has 4 or more alkyl groups, for example, what is shown by the following general formula (I) is mentioned.
- R is an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms or a phenyl group (preferably a methyl group);
- R ′ is hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms (preferably hydrogen);
- p is 6 to 30 (preferably 10 to 18, particularly preferably 12 to 16);
- q is 1 to 50 (preferably 3);
- m is 1 to 100;
- n, w and x are each 1 to 50;
- y is 1-50 It is.
- polyoxyalkylene / alkyl co-modified silicone of the general formula (I) is ABIL EM90 (manufactured by Goldschmit, Germany).
- the organopolysiloxane main skeleton may have another organopolysiloxane chain in the side chain.
- KF-6038 laauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
- the polyoxyalkylene / alkyl co-modified silicone interacts with the powder to make the feeling of use of the W / O emulsified cosmetic smooth on the skin, quickly stop, and give an excellent feeling of fit.
- a feeling of use peculiar to the present invention is related to the frictional behavior of the W / O emulsion composition as described later.
- the polyoxyalkylene / alkyl co-modified silicone is 0.1 to 5% by mass, preferably 0.3 to 3% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 2% by mass in the W / O emulsion cosmetic. If the amount of the polyoxyalkylene / alkyl co-modified silicone is too small, the effect cannot be sufficiently obtained. On the other hand, even if it is excessively mixed, the effect corresponding to it cannot be improved.
- polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone used in the present invention has a linear or branched organopolysiloxane as a main skeleton and has a polyoxyalkylene group in the side chain. What is shown by general formula (II) is mentioned.
- R is an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms or a phenyl group (preferably a methyl group);
- R ′ is hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms (preferably hydrogen or methyl group);
- q is 1 to 50 (preferably 3);
- m is 1 to 100;
- n and x are each 1 to 50;
- y is 1-50 It is.
- polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone of the general formula (II) is KF-6017 (PEG-10 dimethicone, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.).
- the organopolysiloxane main skeleton may have another organopolysiloxane chain in the side chain.
- KF-6028 PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
- Polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone contributes to emulsion stability.
- the blending amount is usually 0.1 to 5% by mass, typically 0.3 to 3% by mass in the W / O emulsified cosmetic, but it is 0.00% relative to the polyoxyalkylene / alkyl co-modified silicone.
- the mass is preferably 2 to 3 times, more preferably 0.5 to 2 times. If the amount of the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone is too small, a sufficient emulsion stabilizing effect cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if it is excessively mixed, the excellent feeling of use of the present invention is impaired.
- the powder used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is usually used in cosmetics, and one or more kinds can be used.
- inorganic white pigments such as talc, kaolin, sericite, muscovite, titanium oxide and iron oxide
- inorganic red pigments such as iron oxide (Bengara) and iron titanate
- inorganic yellow pigments such as yellow iron oxide and loess
- Inorganic purple pigments such as mango violet and cobalt violet
- inorganic green pigments such as chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide and cobalt titanic acid
- inorganic blue pigments such as ultramarine and bitumen
- titanium oxide coated mica titanium oxide coated oxyoxidation Pearl pigments such as bismuth, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide coated talc, fish scale foil, colored titanium oxide coated mica
- metal powder pigments such as aluminum powder, copper powder, synthetic mica, phlogopite, saucite, biotite, lithia mica,
- ultraviolet protective powders such as fine particle titanium oxide and fine particle zinc oxide, and composite powders obtained by coating an organic powder with an inorganic powder are also included.
- various powders hydrophobized by well-known methods such as metal soap, silicones, and fatty acid ester.
- the effect of the present invention becomes significant when the amount of the powder is 5% by mass or more, typically 10% by mass or more, and further 20% by mass or more in the W / O emulsion cosmetic.
- the powder if the powder is too much, the powder may be aggregated without being sufficiently dispersed or the feeling of use may be reduced. Therefore, the blending amount of the powder is 50% by mass or less in the W / O emulsified cosmetic, preferably It is 40 mass%, More preferably, it is 30 mass% or less.
- the volatile oil content used in the present invention includes low-boiling point (boiling point 260 ° C. or less at normal pressure) isoparaffinic hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils, and one or more are used. Can do.
- low-boiling isoparaffinic hydrocarbon oil include isododecane.
- low boiling point silicone oil include cyclic dimethylpolysiloxane having 4 to 6 Si and chain dimethylpolysiloxane having 2 to 5 Si.
- Volatile oil contributes to the feeling of use, especially when it starts to be applied to the skin.
- the blending amount of the volatile oil is preferably 10 to 50% by mass, more preferably 20 to 40% by mass, and particularly preferably 25 to 35% by mass in the W / O emulsion cosmetic. If the blending amount is too small, the effect may not be sufficiently exerted, and even if blended excessively, the effect commensurate with the increase may not be obtained, and the stability may be adversely affected.
- Ethanol contributes to a feeling of use, particularly when it starts to be applied to the skin or when it stops.
- the blending amount of ethanol is preferably 1 to 20% by mass, more preferably 2 to 10% by mass, and particularly preferably 3 to 8% by mass in the W / O emulsion cosmetic. If the amount is too small, the effect is not sufficiently exhibited, and if it is too large, the stability may be deteriorated.
- W / O emulsified cosmetic of usually 10 to 50 weight %, Preferably 20 to 40% by mass, more preferably 25 to 35% by mass.
- the W / O emulsified cosmetic of the present invention contains the above components (A) to (F) as essential components, but other components may be blended depending on the purpose within a range not impairing the effects of the present invention. it can.
- (G) Sodium glutamate In the present invention, by further adding sodium glutamate, the dispersion stability and viscosity stability of the powder are improved without impairing the excellent feeling of use and emulsification stability due to the essential components. Can do.
- the blending amount of sodium glutamate is preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.2 to 3% by mass, and particularly preferably 0.5 to 2% by mass in the W / O emulsion cosmetic.
- organically modified clay mineral in the present invention, the dispersion stability and viscosity stability of the powder can be improved by blending the organically modified clay mineral.
- the organically modified clay mineral include an organic polar compound or an organic cation (for example, a quaternary ammonium salt type cation) intercalated between crystal layers of a water-swellable clay mineral (for example, montmorillonite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite). And a surfactant substituted with a surfactant.
- benzyl dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite dioctadecyl dimethyl ammonium salt modified montmorillonite
- examples include octadecyldimethylbenzylammonium salt-modified montmorillonite and dihexadecyldimethylammonium salt-modified montmorillonite.
- One or more organically modified clay minerals can be used.
- an organically modified clay mineral which is a plate-like particle having an average thickness of 0.1 ⁇ m or less and an average major axis of 0.5 to 50 ⁇ m.
- Commercially available organically modified clay minerals such as those described above are usually aggregates having an average thickness of 2 ⁇ m or more, but the average thickness is obtained by exfoliating with mechanical shearing force and / or impact force using a wet bead mill or the like in oil.
- a high dispersion in which organic modified clay mineral plate-like particles having an average major axis of 0.5 to 50 ⁇ m are dispersed can be obtained (see JP 2009-40720).
- the organically modified clay mineral in a state of being highly dispersed in the oil as described above is preferably used.
- the oil content that forms the high dispersion is not particularly limited, but the volatile oil is one of the preferred oils for forming the high dispersion.
- the amount of the organically modified clay mineral is preferably 0.05 to 1% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by mass in the W / O emulsified cosmetic.
- Diglyceryl diisostearate in the present invention, when an organically modified clay mineral is blended, the dispersion stability and viscosity stability can be improved as described above, but the use is suddenly heavy when stopping at the end of coating. The feeling may be reduced. Diglyceryl diisostearate suppresses a decrease in feeling of use without impairing the effects on dispersion stability and viscosity stability of the organically modified clay mineral.
- the blending amount of diglyceryl diisostearate is preferably 1 to 10 times the mass of the organically modified clay mineral.
- Nonvolatile oil content in the present invention, by blending at least one nonvolatile oil component selected from the group consisting of diethylhexyl succinate, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and dimethylpolysiloxane, the moisturizing effect by glycerin is obtained. Can be improved. These specific non-volatile oils do not impair the excellent feeling of use due to the essential components.
- the total amount of these specific non-volatile oils is preferably 0.1 to 10% by mass, more preferably 2 to 8% by mass, and particularly 3 to 5% by mass in the W / O emulsified cosmetic. If the blending amount is too small, the moisturizing effect is not sufficiently exerted, and even if blended excessively, the improvement corresponding to it cannot be obtained.
- non-volatile oil other than diethyl hexyl succinate, methyl phenyl polysiloxane, and dimethyl polysiloxane examples thereof include hydrocarbons, ester oils, vegetable oils and fats, animal fats and oils, higher alcohols and higher fatty acids.
- non-volatile oils other than the above diethylhexyl succinate, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and dimethylpolysiloxane may contain W / O emulsion makeup. It is preferably 8% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, and particularly preferably 3% by mass or less.
- hydrocarbons examples include liquid paraffin, paraffin, squalane, squalene, ozokerite, pristane, ceresin, petrolatum, and microcrystalline wax.
- Ester oils include isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyl decyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, Lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, monoisostearic acid N-alkyl glycol, dicapric acid neopentyl glycol, malic acid diacid Isostearyl, di-2-heptylundecanoic acid glycerin, tri-2-ethylhe
- vegetable oils examples include avocado oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, castor oil, peanut oil, almond oil, soybean oil, tea seed oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, etc. .
- Animal fats and oils include turtle oil, egg yolk oil, mink oil and the like.
- higher alcohols include oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, decyltetradecanol, jojoba alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and myristyl alcohol
- higher fatty acids include oleic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and ethanol. Examples include icosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid.
- the oil component a so-called “hydrated oil component” that has excellent solubility in water and can absorb (hydrate) a large amount of water can be blended.
- the water-holding oil component is an oil component that has the property of hydrating water, and is particularly preferably one that can hold water having a water-holding power of 100% or more, that is, its own weight or more.
- water-holding oils examples include dipentaerythritol hexaoxystearate, tetra (behenic acid / benzoic acid / ethylhexanoic acid) pentaerythritol, macadamia nut oil fatty acid fetosteryl, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di (fetosteryl, 2-octyl).
- Dodecyl glyceryl triisostearate, macadamia nut oil polyglyceryl-6 ester sub-behenate, and the like.
- POE / POP copolymer dialkyl ether can be blended as an oil component.
- the alkyl group of the POE / POP copolymer dialkyl ether is an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms which may be the same or different, preferably methyl or ethyl, and particularly preferably methyl.
- the POE group is preferably 20 to 80% by weight based on the total of the POE group and the POP group.
- POE / POP may be either a random type or a block type, but is preferably a random type.
- Such POE / POP copolymer dialkyl ethers are described, for example, in JP-A No. 2004-83541 and JP-A No. 2006-265135.
- compositions generally used in cosmetics can be appropriately blended with the W / O emulsion cosmetic of the present invention as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.
- surfactants for example, surfactants, alcohols, humectants, UV absorbers, thickeners, sequestering agents, various water-soluble polymers, pH adjusters, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, flame retardants, Examples include vitamins, amino acids, animal and plant extracts, and skin nutrients / activators.
- the product form of the W / O emulsified cosmetic according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and can be applied to products in which powder-mixed W / O emulsified cosmetics are usually employed.
- Preferable examples include makeup cosmetics such as foundation, makeup base, blusher, eyeliner, eyebrow, and sunscreen cosmetics.
- it is a liquid type cosmetic with a relatively low viscosity of 2,000 to 10,000 mPa ⁇ s (20 ° C.), and further 2,000 to 6,000 mPa ⁇ s (20 ° C.). It can be particularly suitably used.
- -Modified silicone A1 Branched dimethylpolysiloxane modified with lauryl group and POE group [KF-6038, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.]
- Modified silicone A2 Linear dimethylpolysiloxane modified with a cetyl group and a POE / POP group [ABIL EM 90, manufactured by Goldschmit, Germany]
- -Modified silicone B1 Linear dimethylpolysiloxane modified with POE group [KF-6017, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.]
- Modified silicone B2 Branched-chain dimethylpolysiloxane modified with POE group [KF-6028, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.]
- the powder composition used in each test example is as follows. Fine particle titanium oxide 5% by mass Titanium oxide 8% by mass Yellow iron oxide 2% by mass Red iron oxide 0.9% by mass Black iron oxide 0.1% by mass Polymethylsilsesquioxane 5% by mass Total 21% by mass
- Test Example 1 As shown in Table 1 of use, a W / O emulsified cosmetic was prepared using a modified silicone and used as a sample.
- the test method for the feeling of use is as follows. (Feeling of use) Evaluation was performed according to the following criteria by the number of panels that were evaluated as “excellent” by the panel of 20 people when the sample immediately after preparation was applied to the skin. ⁇ : 14 people or more ⁇ : 8-13 people ⁇ : 7 people or less
- Oil component decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, isododecane
- modified silicone are mixed using a homomixer (room temperature, 9000 rpm), and further powder is added and mixed to obtain a dispersion (room temperature, 9000 rpm).
- an aqueous component ethanol, glycerin, phenoxyethanol, water
- a homomixer room temperature, 9000 rpm
- FIG. 1 is a comparison of dynamic friction force curves (dynamic friction force ⁇ friction time) of Samples 1-1 to 1-4.
- the dynamic friction force curves of Sample 1-1 and Sample 1-2 which had excellent usability, the dynamic friction force rapidly increased from the start of friction, and then remained almost constant without substantially decreasing.
- the dynamic friction force curves of Samples 1-3 to 1-4 which had a poor usability, the dynamic friction force rapidly increased from the start of friction and then rapidly decreased, and a clear dynamic friction force peak was observed. It was.
- FIG. 2 is a comparison of dynamic friction force curves of Sample 1-3, Sample 1-7, and Sample 1-8. When the volatile oil content changes, the position of the dynamic friction force peak moves, but the dynamic friction force There was no change in the overall pattern of the curve.
- the dynamic friction force curve is obtained by measuring the dynamic friction force in reciprocating repeated friction at about 20 ° C. using a friction force measuring device (manufactured by Shinto Kagaku Co., Ltd.).
- Test Example 2 Emulsification Stability Further, the emulsion stability of the sample prepared in Test Example 1 was examined.
- the test method is as follows. (Emulsification stability) The appearance of the sample after standing at 20 ° C. for 4 weeks was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria. ⁇ : No change in appearance such as separation or aggregation of emulsified particles is observed. ⁇ : Appearance changes such as separation and aggregation of emulsified particles are slightly observed. X: Appearance change such as separation or aggregation of emulsified particles is observed.
- Test Example 3 Volatile components Furthermore, the effects of volatile components such as ethanol and volatile oil were examined. As a result, as shown in Table 5, even if the blending amount of ethanol or volatile oil was changed, the maximum dynamic friction force change ⁇ P was hardly affected, but when the blending amount was small, Tx exceeded 350 seconds. In this case as well, the feeling of use decreased in the feeling of use test using the panel. Therefore, it was considered that the volatile component affects Tx, and Tx together with ⁇ P contributes to the characteristic feeling of use of the present invention. On the other hand, when the amount of ethanol or volatile oil increased, the emulsion stability decreased.
- ethanol is preferably 1 to 20% by mass, more preferably 2 to 10% by mass, particularly 3 to 8% by mass in the W / O emulsified cosmetic, and the volatile oil content is W / O. It is preferably 10 to 50% by mass, more preferably 20 to 40% by mass, and particularly preferably 25 to 35% by mass in the emulsified cosmetic.
- Test Example 4 Sodium glutamate As described above, (A) polyoxyalkylene / alkyl co-modified silicone and (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone are used together in a specific ratio, so that the emulsion is stable without impairing the excellent feeling of use. W / O emulsified cosmetics with good properties could be obtained. Therefore, the dispersion stability of the powder and the viscosity stability of the composition were also examined. The test method is as follows.
- Viscosity stability The viscosity of the sample was measured immediately after preparation and after standing still at 50 ° C. for 4 weeks, and the rate of decrease in viscosity (V t ) after standing storage with respect to the viscosity immediately after adjustment (V 0 ) was calculated by the following formula.
- the viscosity stability was evaluated on the basis of The viscosity was 25 ° C., and was measured with a single cylindrical rotational viscometer manufactured by Shibaura System Co.
- Viscosity reduction rate (%) [(V 0 ⁇ V t ) / V o ] ⁇ 100 ⁇ : Viscosity reduction rate is less than 15% ⁇ : Viscosity reduction rate is 15% or more and less than 30% ⁇ : Viscosity reduction rate is 30% or more and less than 60% XX: Viscosity reduction rate is 60% or more
- sodium glutamate is particularly effective for both items. According to the study by the present inventors, if the amount of sodium glutamate is too small, the effect cannot be sufficiently obtained, and if the amount is too large, the effect cannot be significantly increased. Accordingly, sodium glutamate is preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.2 to 3% by mass, and particularly preferably 0.5 to 2% by mass in the W / O emulsion cosmetic. In such a range, sodium glutamate did not affect the frictional behavior characteristic of the W / O emulsified cosmetic of the present invention.
- Test Example 5 Organically modified clay mineral The composition of the organically modified clay mineral was also examined.
- organically modified clay mineral organically modified hectorite [Benton 38VCG (Elementis Specialties (UK))] was added to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane to a concentration of 10% by mass, and the same volume of 1 mm diameter glass beads. was used as a medium and a bead mill treatment was performed to obtain an average thickness of 0.1 ⁇ m or less and an average major axis of 0.5 to 50 ⁇ m (highly organically modified hectorite dispersion).
- the oil component decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, higher fatty acid, ester oil
- modified silicone are mixed using a homomixer (room temperature, 9000 rpm), and an organically modified hectorite high dispersion is added to this and mixed. (Room temperature, 9000 rpm), and further powder is added and mixed to obtain a dispersion (room temperature, 9000 rpm).
- an aqueous component (ethanol, glycerin, phenoxyethanol, water) is mixed and dissolved, added to the dispersion, emulsified with a homomixer (room temperature, 9000 rpm), degassed to obtain a W / O emulsified cosmetic. obtain.
- the diglyceryl diisostearate is preferably 1 to 10 times the mass of the organically modified clay mineral.
- Table 9 shows the test results of the moisturizing effect and the feeling of use when 10% by mass of various test components are blended in the sample 6-1 (the increase due to the blending of the test components is reduced to 100% by mass of water). Adjusted).
- Table 9 shows the test results of the moisturizing effect and the feeling of use when 10% by mass of various test components are blended in the sample 6-1 (the increase due to the blending of the test components is reduced to 100% by mass of water). Adjusted).
- Table 9 shows that when the nonvolatile oil was used in combination with glycerin, the amount of horny water after 4 hours of application increased, and a moisturizing effect was obtained.
- such a moisturizing effect could not be obtained even if only the non-volatile oil was blended without blending glycerin. Therefore, it was considered that the moisture retaining effect of glycerin was sufficiently exhibited by the oil remaining in the decorative coating film.
- the non-volatile oil that can significantly improve the moisturizing effect of glycerin while maintaining the dynamic friction force curve pattern A characteristic of the present invention and sufficiently exhibiting its excellent usability is Only diethylhexyl succinate, methylphenyl polysiloxane, and dimethylpolysiloxane. Accordingly, in the present invention, it is preferable to contain one or more nonvolatile oils selected from diethylhexyl succinate, methylphenylpolysiloxane and dimethylpolysiloxane together with glycerin.
- the total amount of diethylhexyl succinate, methylphenylpolysiloxane and dimethylpolysiloxane is 0.1 to 10% by mass, more preferably 2 to 8% by mass, especially 3 to 5% by mass in the W / O emulsified cosmetic. Is preferred.
- Nonvolatile oils other than diethylhexyl succinate, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and dimethylpolysiloxane can be blended as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.
- the amount of glycerin is appropriately determined according to the intended moisturizing effect, but is usually 0.1 to 20% by mass, preferably 1 to 10% by mass in the W / O emulsion cosmetic. If the blending amount is too small, the moisturizing effect is small, and even if blended excessively, the effect corresponding to it cannot be improved. It should be noted that a water-soluble humectant other than glycerin can be blended within the range that does not impair the effects of the present invention, but it is used when a large amount of divalent glycol such as 1,3-butylene glycol is blended. There is a tendency for the feeling to be significantly reduced. Therefore, when blending divalent glycol, it is preferably 3% by mass or less, more preferably 1% by mass or less in the cosmetic.
- the oil component and the modified silicone were mixed using a homomixer (room temperature, 9000 rpm), and powder was added and mixed to obtain a dispersion (room temperature, 9000 rpm).
- a dispersion room temperature, 9000 rpm
- an aqueous component was mixed and dissolved, added to the dispersion, emulsified with a homomixer (room temperature, 9000 rpm), and deaerated to obtain a W / O emulsified cosmetic.
- the cosmetic of Formulation Example 1 exhibited a dynamic friction curve of Pattern A, and it had a feeling of use with a high fit and a quick fit that stopped on the skin.
Abstract
Description
特許文献1(特公平5-32363号公報、花王)には、特定のジメチルポリシロキサンポリオキシアルキレン共重合体を乳化剤として用い、シリコーン油とエタノールとを配合した清涼感や乳化安定性に優れたW/O型化粧料が得られることが報告されている。
しかしながら、このようなW/O型化粧料も、使用感や安定性において十分満足なものとは言えなかった。
(A)ポリオキシアルキレン・アルキル共変性シリコーンが0.1~5質量%;
(B)ポリオキシアルキレン変性シリコーンが成分(A)に対して0.2~3倍質量;
(C)粉体が5~50質量%;
(D)揮発性油分が10~50質量%;
(E)エタノールが1~20質量%;及び
(F)水。
また、本発明は、前記何れかのW/O乳化化粧料において、有機変性粘土鉱物と、ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリルとを含有することを特徴とするW/O乳化化粧料を提供する。
また、本発明は、前記何れかのW/O乳化化粧料において、コハク酸ジエチルヘキシル、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン及びジメチルポリシロキサンからなる群から選ばれる1種以上の不揮発性油分とグリセリンとを含むことを特徴とするW/O乳化化粧料を提供する。
また、本発明は、前記何れかのW/O乳化化粧料において、二価グリコールが化粧料中3質量%以下であることを特徴とするW/O乳化化粧料を提供する。
本発明において用いられるポリオキシアルキレン・アルキル共変性シリコーンは、直鎖又は分岐鎖のオルガノポリシロキサンを主骨格として、側鎖にポリオキシアルキレン基と炭素数4以上のアルキル基とを有するものであり、例えば、下記一般式(I)で示されるものが挙げられる。
Rは炭素数1~3のアルキル基又はフェニル基(好ましくはメチル基);
R’は水素又は炭素数1~12のアルキル基(好ましくは水素);
pは6~30(好ましくは10~18、特に好ましくは12~16);
qは1~50(好ましくは3);
mは1~100;
n、w、xはそれぞれ1~50;
yは1~50
である。
上記一般式(I)において、オルガノポリシロキサン主骨格が、別のオルガノポリシロキサン鎖を側鎖に有していてもよい。このようなポリオキシアルキレン・アルキル共変性シリコーンの好適な例の一つとして、KF-6038(ラウリルPEG-9ポリジメチルシロキシエチルジメチコン、信越化学工業(株)製)が挙げられる。
本発明において用いられるポリオキシアルキレン変性シリコーンは、直鎖又は分岐鎖のオルガノポリシロキサンを主骨格として、側鎖にポリオキシアルキレン基を有するものであり、例えば、下記一般式(II)で示されるものが挙げられる。
Rは炭素数1~3のアルキル基又はフェニル基(好ましくはメチル基);
R’は水素又は炭素数1~12のアルキル基(好ましくは水素又はメチル基);
qは1~50(好ましくは3);
mは1~100;
n、xはそれぞれ1~50;
yは1~50
である。
上記一般式(II)において、オルガノポリシロキサン主骨格が、別のオルガノポリシロキサン鎖を側鎖に有していてもよい。このようなポリオキシアルキレン変性シリコーンの好適な例の一つとして、KF-6028(PEG-9ポリジメチルシロキシエチルジメチコン、信越化学工業(株)製)が挙げられる。
本発明において用いる粉体は、化粧料に通常使用されるものであれば特に制限されず、1種又は2種以上を用いることができる。例えば、タルク、カオリン、セリサイト、白雲母、酸化チタン、酸化鉄などの無機白色顔料、酸化鉄(ベンガラ)、チタン酸鉄などの無機赤色系顔料、黄酸化鉄、黄土などの無機黄色系顔料、マンゴバイオレット、コバルトバイオレットなどの無機紫色系顔料、酸化クロム、水酸化クロム、コバルトチタン酸などの無機緑色系顔料、群青、紺青などの無機青色系顔料、酸化チタンコーテッド雲母、酸化チタンコーテッドオキシ酸化ビスマス、オキシ塩化ビスマス、酸化チタンコーテッドタルク、魚鱗箔、着色酸化チタンコーテッド雲母などのパール顔料、アルミニウムパウダー、カッパーパウダーなどの金属粉末顔料、合成雲母、金雲母、紅雲母、黒雲母、リチア雲母、バーミキュライト、炭酸マグネシウム、炭酸カルシウム、珪藻土、ケイ酸マグネシウム、ケイ酸カルシウム、ケイ酸アルミニウム、ケイ酸バリウム、ケイ酸ストロンチウム、タングステン酸金属塩、α-酸化鉄、水和酸化鉄、シリカ、ヒドロキシアパタイトなどの無機粉末、ナイロンパウダー、ポリエチレンパウダー、ベンゾグアナミンパウダー、微結晶性セルロース、シリコーンパウダーなどの有機粉末等が挙げられる。また、微粒子酸化チタンや微粒子酸化亜鉛などの紫外線防御粉末や、有機粉末に無機粉末を被覆した複合粉末なども挙げられる。
なお、本発明においては、各種粉末が、金属セッケン、シリコーン類、脂肪酸エステルなど公知の方法で疎水化処理されたものを用いるのが好ましい。
本発明において用いられる揮発性油分としては、低沸点(常圧における沸点260℃以下)のイソパラフィン系炭化水素油やシリコーン油が挙げられ、1種又は2種以上を用いることができる。
低沸点イソパラフィン系炭化水素油としては、例えばイソドデカンが挙げられる。
低沸点シリコーン油としては、Si数4~6の環状ジメチルポリシロキサン、Si数2~5の鎖状ジメチルポリシロキサンが挙げられる。
エタノールは使用感、特に肌に塗布し始めた時や止まり際の使用感に寄与する。エタノールの配合量はW/O乳化化粧料中1~20質量%、さらには2~10質量%、特に3~8質量%が好ましい。配合量が少なすぎるとその効果が十分に発揮されず、多すぎる場合には安定性が悪くなることがある。
本発明において、水の配合量は特に制限されるものではなくW/O乳化化粧料を製造可能な範囲で設定可能であるが、W/O乳化化粧料中通常10~50質量%であり、好ましくは20~40質量%、さらに好ましくは25~35質量%である。
(G)グルタミン酸ナトリウム
本発明においては、さらにグルタミン酸ナトリウムを配合することにより、上記必須成分による優れた使用感や乳化安定性を損なうことなく、粉体の分散安定性や粘度安定性を向上することができる。グルタミン酸ナトリウムの配合量は、W/O乳化化粧料中0.1~5質量%、さらには0.2~3質量%、特に0.5~2質量%が好適である。
また、本発明においては、有機変性粘土鉱物を配合することにより、粉体の分散安定性や粘度安定性を向上することができる。有機変性粘土鉱物としては、水膨潤性粘土鉱物(例えばモンモリロナイト、サポナイト、ヘクトライト、ベントナイトなど)の結晶層間に介在する変換性カチオンを有機極性化合物や有機カチオン(例えば、第4級アンモニウム塩型カチオン性界面活性剤)で置換したものが挙げられる。具体的には、ジメチルジステアリルアンモニウムヘクトライト(=クオタニウム-18ヘクトライト)、ジメチルジステアリルアンモニウムベントナイト(=クオタニウム-18ベントナイト)、ベンジルジメチルジステアリルアンモニウムヘクトライトや、ジオクタデシルジメチルアンモニウム塩変性モンモリロナイト、オクタデシルジメチルベンジルアンモニウム塩変性モンモリロナイト、ジヘキサデシルジメチルアンモニウム塩変性モンモリロナイト等が挙げられる。
本発明において有機変性粘土鉱物を配合した場合、上記のように分散安定性や粘度安定性を向上することができるが、塗布終期の止まり際に急激に重くなるなど使用感が低下することがある。
ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリルは、有機変性粘土鉱物による分散安定性や粘度安定性に対する効果を損なうことなく、使用感の低下を抑制する。ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリルの配合量は、有機変性粘土鉱物に対して1~10倍質量であることが好適である。
本発明においては、コハク酸ジエチルヘキシル、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン、及びジメチルポリシロキサンからなる群から選ばれる少なくとも1種以上の不揮発性油分を配合することにより、グリセリンによる保湿効果を向上させることができる。これら特定の不揮発性油分は、上記必須成分による優れた使用感を損なわない。
動物性油脂としては、タートル油、卵黄油、ミンク油等が挙げられる。
抱水性油分としては、ヘキサオキシステアリン酸ジペンタエリトリット、テトラ(ベヘン酸/安息香酸/エチルヘキサン酸)ペンタエリスリット、マカデミアナッツ油脂肪酸フェトステリル、N-ラウロイル-L-グルタミン酸ジ(フェトステリル、2-オクチルドデシル)、トリイソステアリン酸グリセリン、マカデミアナッツ油ポリグリセリル-6エステルズベヘネート等が挙げられる。
本発明のW/O乳化化粧料には、本発明の効果を損なわない限り、化粧料に一般的に使用されるその他の成分を適宜配合することも可能である。
例えば、界面活性剤、アルコール類、保湿剤、紫外線吸収剤、増粘剤、金属イオン封鎖剤、各種水溶性高分子、pH調整剤、酸化防止剤、防腐剤、香料などの他、消炎剤、ビタミン類、アミノ酸類、動植物抽出物、皮膚栄養・賦活剤等の薬剤などが挙げられる。
本発明にかかるW/O乳化化粧料の製品形態は特に制限されず、粉体配合のW/O乳化化粧料が通常採用されている製品に応用することができる。好適な例としては、ファンデーション、化粧下地、頬紅、アイライナー、アイブロウなどのメークアップ化粧料;日焼け止め化粧料などが挙げられる。
また、使用感などの点から、2,000~10,000mPa・s(20℃)、さらには2,000~6,000mPa・s(20℃)の比較的低粘度のリキッドタイプの化粧料に特に好適に利用できる。
・変性シリコーンA1:
ラウリル基とPOE基とで変性された分岐鎖ジメチルポリシロキサン[KF-6038、信越化学工業(株)製]
・変性シリコーンA2:
セチル基と、POE・POP基とで変性された直鎖ジメチルポリシロキサン[ABIL EM 90、独Goldschmit社製]
・変性シリコーンB1:
POE基で変性された直鎖ジメチルポリシロキサン[KF-6017、信越化学工業(株)製]
・変性シリコーンB2:
POE基で変性された分岐鎖ジメチルポリシロキサン[KF-6028、信越化学工業(株)製]
微粒子酸化チタン 5質量%
酸化チタン 8質量%
黄酸化鉄 2質量%
赤酸化鉄 0.9質量%
黒酸化鉄 0.1質量%
ポリメチルシルセスキオキサン 5質量%
合計 21質量%
表1のように、変性シリコーンを用いてW/O乳化化粧料を調製し、試料とした。使用感の試験方法は次の通りである。
(使用感)
20名のパネルにより、調製直後の試料を肌に塗布した時の使用感について「優れている」と評価したパネルの数により、下記の基準で評価した。
○:14名以上
△:8~13名
×:7名以下
油性成分(デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン、ジメチルポリシロキサン、イソドデカン)と変性シリコーンとをホモミキサーを用いて混合し(室温、9000rpm)、さらに粉体を加えて混合し分散液を得る(室温、9000rpm)。別に、水性成分(エタノール、グリセリン、フェノキシエタノール、水)を混合・溶解し、これを前記分散液に添加してホモミキサーで乳化し(室温、9000rpm)、脱気してW/O乳化化粧料を得る。
これに対して、粉体を配合した場合では変性シリコーンの種類によって使用感が大きく異なり、(A)ポリオキシアルキレン・アルキル共変性シリコーンを用いた場合にのみ、肌にすっとなじんで止まりが早くフィット感の高い優れた使用感が得られた(試料1-1~1-2)。(B)ポリオキシアルキレン変性シリコーンを用いた場合には、塗布中に肌上でズルズルと伸び続けて止まりが遅く、フィット感が不十分であった(試料1-3~1-4)。
そこで、本発明者等が各試料について種々の測定を行ったところ、摩擦挙動に顕著な差異があることが判明した。
また、図2は試料1-3、試料1-7、及び試料1-8の動摩擦力曲線を比較したものであるが、揮発性油分が変わると動摩擦力ピークの位置は移動するものの、動摩擦力曲線の全体的なパターンには変化がなかった。
図3に、代表的なパターンA及びパターンBを例として点X、点X到達時間Tx、動摩擦力Px、Pxに対する最大動摩擦力変化量△Pを模式的に示す。なお、本発明において、動摩擦力曲線は摩擦力測定装置(新東科学(株)製)により約20℃での往復繰り返し摩擦における動摩擦力を測定したものである。
さらに、前記試験例1で調製した試料について乳化安定性を調べた。試験方法は、次の通りである。
(乳化安定性)
試料を20℃で4週間静置した後の外観を肉眼観察し、下記の基準で評価した。
○:乳化粒子の分離や凝集などの外観変化が認められない。
△:乳化粒子の分離や凝集などの外観変化が僅かに認められる。
×:乳化粒子の分離や凝集などの外観変化が認められる。
一方、(B)ポリオキシアルキレン変性シリコーンを用いた場合には使用感が悪いものの乳化安定性が比較的良好であった。
そこで、本発明者等は、両者の併用についてさらに検討を行った。
このようなことから、(B)ポリオキシアルキレン変性シリコーンは(A)ポリオキシアルキレン・アルキル共変性シリコーンに対して0.2~3倍質量、さらには0.5~2倍質量の範囲で配合することが好適である。
さらに、エタノールや揮発性油分などの揮発性成分の影響について検討を行った。
その結果、表5に示すように、エタノールや揮発性油分の配合量を変えても最大動摩擦力変化量△Pにはほどんど影響はなかったが、配合量が少ないとTxが350秒を超えてしまい、この場合にもパネルによる使用感試験で使用感が低下した。従って、揮発性成分はTxに影響を及ぼし、Txは△Pとともに本発明の特徴的な使用感に寄与するものと考えられた。一方、エタノールや揮発性油分が多くなると乳化安定性が低下した。
このようなことから、エタノールはW/O乳化化粧料中1~20質量%、さらには2~10質量%、特に3~8質量%であることが好適であり、揮発性油分はW/O乳化化粧料中10~50質量%、さらには20~40質量%、特に25~35質量%であることが好適である。
上記のように、(A)ポリオキシアルキレン・アルキル共変性シリコーンに(B)ポリオキシアルキレン変性シリコーンを特定の割合で併用することで、優れた使用感を損なうことなく乳化安定性の良好なW/O乳化化粧料を得ることができた。そこで、さらに粉体の分散安定性や組成物の粘度安定性についても検討を行った。試験方法は次の通りである。
50mlのスクリュー管(直径3cm)に試料を約30ml入れて閉栓し、20℃で45rpmの回転速度で4時間回転させてローリング試験を行い、肉眼観察により下記の基準で粉体の分散性を評価した。
○:色じま(黄色スジや赤色ムラ)が認められない。
△:色じま(黄色スジや赤色ムラ)がわずかに認められる。
×:色じま(黄色スジや赤色ムラ)が認められる。
試料の粘度を調製直後、ならびに50℃で4週間静置保存後に測定し、調整直後の粘度(V0)に対する静置保存後の粘度(Vt)の低下率を次式により算出し、下記の基準で粘度安定性を評価した。粘度は25℃で、芝浦システム株式会社製、単一円筒型回転粘度計により測定した。
粘度低下率(%)=[(V0-Vt)/Vo]×100
○ :粘度低下率が15%未満
△ :粘度低下率が15%以上30%未満
× :粘度低下率が30%以上60%未満
××:粘度低下率が60%以上
本発明者等の検討によれば、グルタミン酸ナトリウムが少なすぎるとその効果が十分得られず、多すぎても効果の顕著な増大は得られなかった。よって、グルタミン酸ナトリウムは、W/O型乳化化粧料中0.1~5質量%、さらには0.2~3質量%、特に0.5~2質量%が好適である。なお、このような範囲であればグルタミン酸ナトリウムは本発明のW/O乳化化粧料に特徴的な摩擦挙動に影響を及ぼさなかった。
有機変性粘土鉱物の配合についても検討を行った。
有機変性粘土鉱物としては、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサンに有機変性ヘクトライト[ベントン38VCG(エレメンティススペシャリティーズ(英)社)]を10質量%濃度となるように添加し、同体積の直径1mmガラスビーズを媒体にしてビーズミル処理し、平均厚み0.1μm以下、平均長径0.5~50μmにしたもの(有機変性ヘクトライト高分散体)を用いた。
油性成分(デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン、ジメチルポリシロキサン、高級脂肪酸、エステル油)と変性シリコーンとをホモミキサーを用いて混合し(室温、9000rpm)、これに有機変性ヘクトライト高分散体を加えて混合し(室温、9000rpm)、さらに粉体を加えて混合し分散液を得る(室温、9000rpm)。別に、水性成分(エタノール、グリセリン、フェノキシエタノール、水)を混合・溶解し、これを前記分散液に添加してホモミキサーで乳化し(室温、9000rpm)、脱気してW/O乳化化粧料を得る。
ただし、有機変性粘土鉱物の配合量が多くなるに従って使用感が低下する傾向があった。
本発明者等が検討を行った結果、ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリルを有機変性粘土鉱物と併用すると、有機変性粘土鉱物配合による分散安定性、粘度安定性向上効果を損なわずに、その使用感低下を抑制できることが明らかとなった。
ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリルが少なすぎるとその効果が十分に発揮されず、多すぎてもそれに見合った効果の向上は得られなかった。従って、ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリルは有機変性粘土鉱物に対して1~10倍質量が好適である。
表8の組成でW/Oリキッドファンデーションを調製し、保湿効果試験を行った。その結果、試料6-1では保湿剤であるグリセリンを配合しているにもかかわらず、その保湿効果がほとんど発揮されていなかった。そこで、保湿性向上について検討を行った。
上腕内側部に試料を2μg/cm2塗布し、塗布直前及び塗布後4時間に、皮膚水分測定器コルネオメーター(Corneometer:独Courage+Khazaka社製)により、角質水分量を測定した(N=4)。
各試料について、(塗布後4時間の平均角質水分量)/(塗布直前の平均角質水分量)の比率から、次の基準で保湿効果を評価した。
○:1.2以上
△:1.1以上1.2未満
×:1.1未満
表9のように、不揮発性油分をグリセリンと併用した場合には、塗布4時間後の角質水分量が増加し、保湿効果が得られた。一方、グリセリンを配合せずに不揮発性油分のみを配合してもこのような保湿効果を得ることはできなかった。よって、化粧塗膜中に油分が残存することでグリセリンの保湿効果が十分に発揮されるものと考えられた。
従って、本発明においては、グリセリンとともにコハク酸ジエチルヘキシル、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン及びジメチルポリシロキサンから選ばれる1種以上の不揮発性油分を含むことが好適である。
なお、コハク酸ジエチルヘキシル、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン及びジメチルポリシロキサン以外の不揮発性油分も、本発明の効果を損なわない範囲であれば配合することは可能である。
なお、グリセリン以外の水溶性保湿剤についても、本発明の効果を損なわない範囲であれば配合することは可能であるが、1,3-ブチレングリコールのような二価グリコールを多量に配合すると使用感が著しく低下する傾向がある。よって、二価グリコールを配合する場合には化粧料中3質量%以下、さらには1質量%以下とすることが好ましい。
処方例1の化粧料は、パターンAの動摩擦曲線を呈し、肌にすっとなじんで止まりが早くフィット感の高い使用感であった。
Claims (5)
- 下記成分(A)~(F)を含有することを特徴とするW/O乳化化粧料:
(A)ポリオキシアルキレン・アルキル共変性シリコーンが0.1~5質量%;
(B)ポリオキシアルキレン変性シリコーンが成分(A)に対して0.2~3倍質量;
(C)粉体が5~50質量%;
(D)揮発性油分が10~50質量%;
(E)エタノールが1~20質量%;及び
(F)水。 - 請求項1記載のW/O乳化化粧料において、グルタミン酸ナトリウムを含有することを特徴とするW/O乳化化粧料。
- 請求項1又は2記載のW/O乳化化粧料において、有機変性粘土鉱物と、イソステアリン酸ジイソステアリン酸グリセリルとを含有することを特徴とするW/O乳化化粧料。
- 請求項1~3の何れかに記載のW/O乳化化粧料において、コハク酸ジエチルヘキシル、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン及びジメチルポリシロキサンからなる群から選ばれる1種以上の不揮発性油分とグリセリンとを含むことを特徴とするW/O乳化化粧料。
- 請求項1~4の何れかに記載のW/O乳化化粧料において、二価グリコールが化粧料中3質量%以下であることを特徴とするW/O乳化化粧料。
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JP2011520845A JP5814117B2 (ja) | 2010-02-12 | 2010-06-03 | W/o乳化化粧料 |
CN2010800617603A CN102762193A (zh) | 2010-02-12 | 2010-06-03 | W/o型乳化化妆品 |
KR1020127009509A KR101801410B1 (ko) | 2010-02-12 | 2010-06-03 | W/o 유화 화장료 |
US13/501,465 US20120201905A1 (en) | 2010-02-12 | 2010-06-03 | W/O Emulsion Cosmetics |
EP10776516.6A EP2301522B1 (en) | 2010-02-12 | 2010-06-03 | Water-in-oil emulsion-type cosmetic preparation |
ES10776516.6T ES2663826T3 (es) | 2010-02-12 | 2010-06-03 | Preparado cosmético de tipo emulsión de agua en aceite |
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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ES2663826T3 (es) | 2018-04-17 |
JP5814117B2 (ja) | 2015-11-17 |
KR101801410B1 (ko) | 2017-11-24 |
TW201127410A (en) | 2011-08-16 |
EP2301522A1 (en) | 2011-03-30 |
TWI495486B (zh) | 2015-08-11 |
EP2301522A4 (en) | 2013-07-03 |
JPWO2011001781A1 (ja) | 2012-12-13 |
US20120201905A1 (en) | 2012-08-09 |
KR20120125224A (ko) | 2012-11-14 |
CN102762193A (zh) | 2012-10-31 |
EP2301522B1 (en) | 2018-02-28 |
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