JP7342001B2 - 油中水型乳化化粧料 - Google Patents
油中水型乳化化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- JP7342001B2 JP7342001B2 JP2020531372A JP2020531372A JP7342001B2 JP 7342001 B2 JP7342001 B2 JP 7342001B2 JP 2020531372 A JP2020531372 A JP 2020531372A JP 2020531372 A JP2020531372 A JP 2020531372A JP 7342001 B2 JP7342001 B2 JP 7342001B2
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- oil
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- silicone
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims description 50
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 title claims description 8
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 79
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 54
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 claims description 36
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 claims description 36
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 claims description 36
- -1 cetyl octoate Chemical compound 0.000 claims description 22
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 claims description 19
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000008346 aqueous phase Substances 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000002734 clay mineral Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 125000001997 phenyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(*)C([H])=C1[H] 0.000 claims description 6
- LEEDMQGKBNGPDN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylnonadecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C LEEDMQGKBNGPDN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000002252 acyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 claims description 4
- ZUBZATZOEPUUQF-UHFFFAOYSA-N isononane Chemical compound CCCCCCC(C)C ZUBZATZOEPUUQF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- BGRXBNZMPMGLQI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-octyldodecyl tetradecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(CCCCCCCC)CCCCCCCCCC BGRXBNZMPMGLQI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- GWFGDXZQZYMSMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Octadecansaeure-heptadecylester Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC GWFGDXZQZYMSMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- XJNUECKWDBNFJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecyl 2-ethylhexanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(CC)CCCC XJNUECKWDBNFJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- NKBWPOSQERPBFI-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC NKBWPOSQERPBFI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 3
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpentane-2,4-diol Chemical compound CC(O)CC(C)(C)O SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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Description
(A)下記式(1):
Rはメチル基またはフェニル基であり、
mは50~1000の整数であり、
nは1~40の整数であり、
分子中にポリオキシアルキレン基を40質量%以上含有し、且つ分子量は30000以上である]
で示される高分子量ポリエーテル変性シリコーンから選択される少なくとも1種;
(B)HLBが2~5のシリコーン界面活性剤(ただし、前記(A)に該当するものは除く);
(C)有機変性粘土鉱物;
(D)72~83質量%の水相;及び
(E)油剤、を含有し、
前記(E)油剤が、(e1)非極性炭化水素油及び低極性炭化水素油から選択される少なくとも1種の炭化水素油と、(e2)少なくとも1種のシリコーン油とを含むことを特徴とする、油中水型乳化化粧料を提供する。
なお、本発明は、上記の(A)高分子量ポリエーテル変性シリコーンに代えて又はそれに加えて、下記式(2)で表される架橋型ポリエーテル変性シリコーンの少なくとも1種を配合した油中水型乳化化粧料も含む。
本明細書における「コク感」とは、製剤を肌に馴染ませた後、製剤が肌を覆うような後残り感があることを意味する。
本発明の乳化化粧料に配合されるポリエーテル変性シリコーンは、下記式(1)で表される高分子量ポリエーテル変性シリコーンから選択される少なくとも1種、及び/又は、下記式(2)で表される架橋型ポリエーテル変性シリコーンから選択される少なくとも1種(本明細書では、「特定構造のポリエーテル変性シリコーン」又は「A成分」とも称する)である。
Rはメチル基またはフェニル基であり、
mは50~1000の整数であり、
nは1~40の整数であり、
分子中にポリオキシアルキレン基を40質量%以上含有し、且つ分子量は30000以上である。]
また、1分子中のポリオキシアルキレン基の含有量は40質量%以上が好ましく、特に好ましくは40~70質量%の範囲である。ポリオキシアルキレン基の含有量が40質量%未満の場合には、シリコーン油以外の非極性油に対する乳化能が低下し、70質量%を超える場合には、得られた乳化化粧料にべたつきを生ずる場合がある。
式(1)における、mが50未満であり、かつnが1未満である場合には、増粘効果が不十分になり、mが1000を超え、かつnが40を超える場合には、得られた乳化化粧料がべたついた感触を有するようになる。
本発明の乳化化粧料におけるB成分はシリコーン界面活性剤であり、そのHLB値が2~5の範囲内にあるものである。本発明における「シリコーン界面活性剤」とは、分子内にシリコーン構造(疎水性部分)と親水性部分とを有する非イオン性の界面活性剤である。
なお、上記式(1)又は(2)で表される特定構造のポリエーテル変性シリコーンの中に、そのHLB値が2~5であるものが存在し得るが、本発明においては、式(1)又は(2)に該当するものは特定構造のポリエーテル変性シリコーン(A成分)とし、シリコーン界面活性剤(B成分)からは除外する。
本発明の乳化化粧料に用いられる有機変性粘土鉱物(C成分)は、三層構造を有するコロイド性含水ケイ酸アルミニウムの一種で、一般に下記一般式(3)で表される粘土鉱物を第四級アンモニウム塩型カチオン界面活性剤で変性したものである。
(X,Y)2―3(Si,Al)4O10(OH)2Z1/3・nH2O (3)
(但し、X=Al、Fe(III)、Mn(III)又はCr(III)、Y=Mg、Fe(II)、Ni、Zn又はLi、Z=K、Na又はCa)
本発明の乳化化粧料における水相(D成分)は、水及び水溶性成分を含む。水は、イオン交換水、精製水、自然水等、化粧料に通常使用されているものでよい。水溶性成分は、水と混和可能な物質であり、典型例として、低級アルコール及び多価アルコールを挙げることができる。
また、水相(D成分)の少なくとも80質量%、好ましくは少なくとも90質量%、より好ましくは少なくとも95質量%を、水と多価アルコールと保湿剤が占めるようにするのが好ましい。
本発明における(e1成分)は、常温(25℃)において液状の炭化水素油であって、一般に非極性油又は低極性油として知られたものでよい。化粧料分野では、例えば、水添ポリデセン、ミネラルオイル、流動パラフィン、イソパラフィン、イソヘキサデカン、イソドデカン、スクワラン、スクワレン、水添ポリイソブテン等が非極性又は低極性の液状油として知られている。
シリコーン油(e2成分)は、常温で液状のシリコーン油であり、例えば、ジメチルポリシロキサン(ジメチコン)、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン(ジフェニルジメチコン)、メチルハイドロジェンポリシロキサンなどの鎖状シリコーン油、オクタメチルシクロテトラシロキサン、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン、ドデカメチルシクロヘキサシロキサンなどの環状シリコーン油等が挙げられる。
また、(e1)非極性炭化水素及び(e2)シリコーン油の合計配合量が、油剤(E成分)の全質量に対して、80質量%以上を占めるのが好ましく、より好ましくは90質量%以上、さらに好ましくは95質量%以上を占め、油剤(E成分)が(e1)非極性炭化水素及び(e2)シリコーン油のみからなることもある。
評価方法:専門パネル10名が顔に試料を塗布し、塗布時の水が溢れ出す感触の有無(転相感)を評価した。
評価基準:
A*:パネル10名中9名以上が転相感があると回答した。
A:パネル10名中7名以上9名未満が転相感があると回答した。
B:パネル10名中5名以上7名未満が転相感があると回答した。
C:パネル10名中5名未満が転相感があると回答した。
評価方法:25℃および40℃で1ヶ月保存した試料の硬度および外観を、調製直後と比較し安定性を評価した。
評価基準:
A*:どの保存条件でも、硬度の低下が10%以下であり、外観の変化は認められなかった。
A:どの保存条件でも、外観の変化は認められなかったが、40℃で保存したもののみ10%以上の硬度低下が認められた。
B*:どの保存条件でも、外観の変化は認められなかったが、10%以上の硬度低下が認められた。
B:外観において、水または油の分離が若干認められた。
C:1ヶ月以内に、外観において水または油の分離が認められた。
評価方法:専門パネル10名が顔に試料を塗布し、塗布時の使用感を評価した。
評価基準:
A*:パネル10名中9名以上がべたつきがないと回答した。
A:パネル10名中7名以上9名未満がべたつきがないと回答した。
B:パネル10名中5名以上7名未満がべたつきがないと回答した。
C:パネル10名中5名未満がべたつきがないと回答した。
評価方法:専門パネル10名が顔に試料を塗布し、塗布時の使用感を評価した。
評価基準:
A*:パネル10名中9名以上が肌がやわらかいと回答した。
A:パネル10名中7名以上9名未満が肌がやわらかいと回答した。
B:パネル10名中5名以上7名未満が肌がやわらかいと回答した。
C:パネル10名中5名未満が肌がやわらかいと回答した。
評価方法:専門パネル10名が顔に試料を塗布し、塗布時の使用感を評価した。
評価基準:
A*:パネル10名中9名以上が保湿効果があると回答した。
A:パネル10名中7名以上9名未満が保湿効果があると回答した。
B:パネル10名中5名以上7名未満が保湿効果があると回答した。
C:パネル10名中5名未満が保湿効果があると回答した。
評価方法:専門パネル10名が顔に試料を塗布し、塗布時の使用感を評価した。
評価基準:
A*:パネル10名中9名以上がコク感があると回答した。
A:パネル10名中7名以上9名未満がコク感があると回答した。
B:パネル10名中5名以上7名未満がコク感があると回答した。
C:パネル10名中5名未満がコク感があると回答した。
Claims (4)
- (A)0.5~1.5質量%の下記式(1):
Rはメチル基またはフェニル基であり、
mは50~1000の整数であり、
nは1~40の整数であり、
分子中にポリオキシアルキレン基を40質量%以上含有し、且つ分子量は30000以上である]
で示される高分子量ポリエーテル変性シリコーンから選択される少なくとも1種;
(B)0.5~1.5質量%のHLBが2~5のシリコーン界面活性剤(ただし、前記(A)に該当するものは除く);
(C)1.0~2.0質量%の有機変性粘土鉱物;
(D)72~83質量%の水相;及び
(E)15~24質量%の油剤、を含有し、
前記(E)油剤が、(e1)非極性炭化水素油及び低極性炭化水素油から選択される少なくとも1種の炭化水素油と、(e2)少なくとも1種のシリコーン油とを含み、
前記(e1)炭化水素油と前記(e2)シリコーン油の合計配合量に対する(e1)炭化水素油の配合量の比率[(e1)/{(e1)+(e2)}]が0.3~0.65の範囲内であることを特徴とする、油中水型乳化化粧料。 - (e1)非極性炭化水素油及び低極性炭化水素油から選択される少なくとも1種の炭化水素油が、常温で液状でありIOB値が0.15以下の炭化水素油である、請求項1に記載の化粧料。
- 常温で液状でありIOB値が0.15以下の炭化水素油が、ステアリン酸ステアリル、ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、パルミチン酸オクチル、2-エチルヘキサン酸セチル、オクタン酸セチル、トリイソステアリン酸トリメチロ-ルプロパン、イソノナン酸イソトリデシル、軽質イソパラフィン、軽質流動イソパラフィン、流動イソパラフィン、流動パラフィン、及びα-オレフィンオリゴマーからなる群から選択される少なくとも1種である、請求項2に記載の化粧料。
- (e1)炭化水素油及び(e2)シリコーン油の合計配合量が、(E)油剤の全質量に対して80質量%以上である、請求項1から3のいずれか一項に記載の化粧料。
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JP2000239119A (ja) | 1999-02-18 | 2000-09-05 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 化粧料 |
WO2011001781A1 (ja) | 2010-02-12 | 2011-01-06 | 株式会社 資生堂 | W/o乳化化粧料 |
JP2012012351A (ja) | 2010-07-02 | 2012-01-19 | Nikko Chemical Co Ltd | 油中水型乳化剤組成物及び該組成物を用いた油中水型乳化組成物並びに化粧料 |
WO2012043614A1 (ja) | 2010-09-29 | 2012-04-05 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 水中油型乳化化粧料 |
WO2012086579A1 (ja) | 2010-12-21 | 2012-06-28 | 株式会社 資生堂 | W/o乳化化粧料 |
JP2016535002A (ja) | 2013-10-31 | 2016-11-10 | ロレアル | エマルションの形態の組成物 |
WO2017126252A1 (ja) | 2016-01-18 | 2017-07-27 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 油中水型乳化化粧料 |
WO2018117172A1 (ja) | 2016-12-21 | 2018-06-28 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 油中水型乳化化粧料 |
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JP3580384B2 (ja) * | 1995-03-31 | 2004-10-20 | 株式会社資生堂 | 乳化化粧料 |
JP3782914B2 (ja) * | 2000-02-07 | 2006-06-07 | 株式会社資生堂 | 高内水相油中水型乳化化粧料 |
JP2004269418A (ja) * | 2003-03-07 | 2004-09-30 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 化粧料 |
JP5533176B2 (ja) * | 2010-04-14 | 2014-06-25 | 信越化学工業株式会社 | ウォーターブレイクメイクアップ化粧料 |
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JP2000239119A (ja) | 1999-02-18 | 2000-09-05 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 化粧料 |
WO2011001781A1 (ja) | 2010-02-12 | 2011-01-06 | 株式会社 資生堂 | W/o乳化化粧料 |
JP2012012351A (ja) | 2010-07-02 | 2012-01-19 | Nikko Chemical Co Ltd | 油中水型乳化剤組成物及び該組成物を用いた油中水型乳化組成物並びに化粧料 |
WO2012043614A1 (ja) | 2010-09-29 | 2012-04-05 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 水中油型乳化化粧料 |
WO2012086579A1 (ja) | 2010-12-21 | 2012-06-28 | 株式会社 資生堂 | W/o乳化化粧料 |
JP2016535002A (ja) | 2013-10-31 | 2016-11-10 | ロレアル | エマルションの形態の組成物 |
WO2017126252A1 (ja) | 2016-01-18 | 2017-07-27 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 油中水型乳化化粧料 |
WO2018117172A1 (ja) | 2016-12-21 | 2018-06-28 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 油中水型乳化化粧料 |
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CN112399846A (zh) | 2021-02-23 |
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