WO2011070828A1 - 弾性経編地 - Google Patents
弾性経編地 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2011070828A1 WO2011070828A1 PCT/JP2010/064731 JP2010064731W WO2011070828A1 WO 2011070828 A1 WO2011070828 A1 WO 2011070828A1 JP 2010064731 W JP2010064731 W JP 2010064731W WO 2011070828 A1 WO2011070828 A1 WO 2011070828A1
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- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- elastic
- knitted fabric
- knitted
- fiber
- warp
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
- D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/40—Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
- Y10T442/413—Including an elastic strand
Definitions
- the present invention relates to an elastic warp knitted fabric excellent in stretchability and stretch recovery that can be used for innerwear, sportswear, swimwear, and the like.
- elastic warp knitted fabrics containing elastic yarn are often used as inners that fit the body such as shorts, girdles, and bras, undershirts that fit the body such as sportswear, and swimwear.
- the inner using these warp knitted fabrics has a good feeling of wear and can enhance the complementability of the body.
- both elastic yarns and inelastic yarns are specified atlas knitted fabrics.
- An elastic warp knitted fabric composed of a tissue is also disclosed (see Patent Document 3 below). In this method, by reducing the stress at the time of stretching, a soft stretch warp knitted fabric that does not feel cramped at the time of wearing is obtained. There is a problem that the shape is lost, and there is a problem that the movement is hindered due to the poor movement following ability and the clothes not being integrated with the movement of the muscle.
- the problem to be solved by the present invention is to solve the problems of the prior art as described above, and is excellent in stretchability and stretch recovery, or motion following and wear feeling suitable for inner, sportswear, swimwear, etc. It is to provide an elastic knitted fabric.
- the present inventor has intensively studied to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result of repeating experiments such as a knitted fabric having a new structure and a wearing test, the present invention has been completed. That is, the present invention is as follows.
- the stretching force in the warp direction and the stretching force in the weft direction are both 100 cN to 600 cN, and the ratio of the stretching force in the warp direction / the stretching force in the weft direction is 0.8 to 1.8
- the elastic warp knitted fabric is characterized in that both the stretch recovery rate in the warp direction and the stretch recovery rate in the weft direction after repeating 80% stretch / recovery three times are 85% or more.
- the fold structure through which the elastic fiber is threaded is a denby structure, and any one of the folds through which the non-elastic fiber is threaded is threaded through the elastic fiber.
- the plain cord structure is in the same direction with respect to the fold tissue, and the other tissue is the plain cord structure in a different direction with respect to the fold tissue in which the elastic fiber is threaded.
- the structure of the heel through which the elastic fiber is threaded is a two-dimensional knitted structure knitted in a zigzag shape in the course direction, and any one of the cocoons through which the inelastic fiber is threaded
- One structure is a plain cord structure in the same direction with respect to the fold tissue through which the elastic fibers are threaded, and the other structure is in a different direction with respect to the fold tissue through which the elastic fibers are threaded.
- the elastic warp knitted fabric according to the above [4] which is a plain cord structure.
- the elastic knitted fabric of the present invention Since it has a predetermined elongation in both the warp direction and the weft direction of the knitted fabric and has an excellent instantaneous recovery, it is excellent in movement following and detachability and excellent in comfort when worn. Moreover, since the unnecessary elongation of the fabric is suppressed, the durability of the fabric can be improved.
- FIG. 4 is a yarn layout diagram of inelastic yarns and elastic yarns in a stitch (aspects (a), (b), and (c), and aspects (d), (e), and (f)). It is an example of the elastic warp knitted fabric organization chart of this invention (Example 1). It is an example of the elastic warp knitted fabric organization chart of this invention (Example 5). (Example 6) which is an example of the elastic warp knitted fabric organization chart of this invention. (Example 8) which is an example of the elastic warp knitted fabric organization chart of this invention.
- the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention is characterized by using elastic fibers and inelastic fibers.
- the inelastic fiber used in the present invention may be either a filament yarn or a spun yarn.
- the filament yarn is preferably made of synthetic fiber such as rayon, acetate fiber, polyamide fiber, polyester fiber, acrylic fiber, polypropylene fiber, or vinyl chloride fiber.
- the form of the filament yarn may be any of a raw yarn (unprocessed yarn), a false twisted yarn, a pre-dyed yarn, or a composite yarn thereof.
- the spun yarn is preferably made of synthetic fibers such as natural fibers such as cotton, wool, hemp, rayon, acetate, polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, acrylic fibers, polypropylene fibers, vinyl chloride fibers, etc. May be either single or blended. That is, a suitable material may be selected as appropriate depending on the application. Further, the fineness and the number of single yarns are not particularly limited, and those having a fineness and the number of single yarns suitable for the application and the gauge of the knitting machine to be used may be selected.
- the elastic fiber may be a polyurethane elastic yarn, a polyether / ester elastic yarn, a polyamide elastic yarn, a polyolefin elastic yarn, or a non-elastic fiber coated thereon to be in a covering state.
- a so-called rubber thread which is a thread formed of natural rubber, synthetic rubber, or semi-synthetic rubber, can be used, but polyurethane elastic threads that are excellent in stretchability and generally widely used are suitable.
- the elastic fiber is not particularly limited with respect to the fineness and the number of single yarns, and a fiber having a fineness and the number of single yarns suitable for the application and the gauge of the knitting machine to be used may be selected.
- the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention is knitted by at least two ridges, and is characterized in that elastic fibers are arranged on at least one ridge and non-elastic fibers are arranged on the other ridges.
- the heel used at the time of knitting is expressed as a front heel, a back heel in the back, and a middle heel in the middle.
- two cocoons which fiber is used for which cocoon is not particularly limited, but if elastic fibers are arranged on the front heel, the elastic fibers tend to come out on the surface and the surface quality may deteriorate. Therefore, it is preferable to dispose non-elastic fibers on the front heel and elastic fibers on the back heel.
- the elastic fiber is preferably disposed only in the back bag because it may feel heavy when worn.
- the elastic fiber is passed through in a full set, and the elastic fiber forms a loop.
- the stretch characteristics of the part that does not contain the elastic fiber may be reduced, and if the elastic fiber does not constitute a loop, it can only have a high stress during elongation, The position of the elastic fiber in the knitted fabric is not stable, and it may lose shape and surface quality when worn as clothes.
- the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention has an elongation force in the warp direction and the weft direction at 80% elongation of 100 cN to 600 cN, and an elongation force ratio in the warp direction / weft direction is 0.8 to 1.8.
- the stretching force in the warp direction and the weft direction is preferably 100 cN to 500 cN, more preferably 100 cN to 300 cN, and still more preferably 100 cN to 200 cN.
- the stretching force is less than 100 cN, the stretch recovery property may be deteriorated.
- the stretching force exceeds 600 cN, the stretching force may be too large, and a feeling of tension may be felt during exercise.
- the stretch force ratio is preferably 0.9 to 1.7, more preferably 0.9 to 1.6, and still more preferably 1.0 to 1.5. If the ratio of the stretching force in the warp direction / wet direction at 80% elongation is less than 0.8 or more than 1.8, the shape may be lost or the fit may be deteriorated when worn as a product.
- the “elongation force ratio in the warp direction / weft direction at 80% elongation of the knitted fabric” as defined in the present invention is a tensile test in the warp direction and the weft direction of the elastic warp knitted fabric as described below.
- the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention is characterized in that the stretch recovery rate in the warp direction and the weft direction after repeating 80% stretch and recovery three times is 85% or more. If the elongation recovery rate in the warp direction and the weft direction after repeating this 80% elongation / recovery three times is less than 85%, the shape may be lost when worn as a product.
- “elongation recovery rate in warp direction and weft direction after repeating 80% extension / recovery three times” is, as described below, in a tensile test in the warp direction and weft direction of an elastic warp knitted fabric.
- Fig. 1 shows a schematic diagram of a testing machine used for evaluating instantaneous recovery.
- a sample sampled in a 20 cm square is fixed to the sample fixing frame 1b on the fixed sample gripping part 1a of the tester, Install.
- a push-up round bar 1d is installed on the movable sample gripping portion 1c of the same testing machine.
- the height of the push-up round bar 1d is adjusted so that the maximum push-up height of the push-up round bar 1d is 6 cm upward from the sample fixing frame 1b.
- the maximum push-up height of the push-up round bar is set so that the sample at the maximum push-out extends about 50%.
- a high speed camera “Himawari GE200” manufactured by Library Co., Ltd. is installed on a tripod at a horizontal position of the sample fixing frame and at a position 20 cm from the front surface of the sample fixing frame.
- the dematcher fatigue tester is set to perform 500 push-up operations per minute and is operated, and the 500th push-up operation is photographed under the condition of 200 frames per second. From the captured video, when the round bar descends after 500 push-up operations, the point when the tip of the round bar passes the lower end of the sample fixing frame is set to 0, and the maximum sample slack from the sample fixing frame within 0.05 seconds from there.
- the smaller the sample sag at this time, the better the instantaneous recovery and the better followability during exercise, and the maximum sample sag after 500 pushes is preferably 3.0 mm or less, particularly preferably 2.0 mm or less. It is.
- the excellent instantaneous recovery means that the knitted fabric does not sag when the elbow or knee is bent and then stretched during wear, and the decrease in support force is small. Not only the elbows and knees, but also the changes in the size of the muscle part due to muscle contraction and relaxation during exercise, it also excels in the effect of always holding the muscle during exercise with a constant support force. Therefore, for example, when making a long tight from the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention and performing a knee flexion / extension operation, the amount of oxyhemoglobin in the rectus femoral muscle tissue does not wear the long tight. It turned out to be a high result compared to conventional long tights. Oxyhemoglobin is hemoglobin that has carried oxygen from the lungs.
- the presence of a large amount of oxygenated hemoglobin in muscle tissue means that fat and sugar are decomposed by oxygen to obtain energy.
- the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention has good instantaneous recovery and thus promoted venous return and improved blood flow.
- the knitted fabric has an elongation recovery rate of 85% or more in both the warp direction and the weft direction after 80% elongation / recovery of the knitted fabric is repeated three times. It is necessary that the ratio of the stretching force in the warp direction / the weft direction at 80% elongation is 0.8 to 1.8.
- the present inventor has a stitch of the non-elastic fiber, particularly a stitch composed of the elastic fiber and the non-elastic fiber. We found it important to adjust the tilt.
- the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention preferably includes a stitch having an inclination of 20 to 70 degrees as measured by the method described later. Particularly preferably, it is 20 to 60 degrees, and more preferably 30 to 50 degrees. If the inclination of the stitch of the non-elastic fiber is less than 20 degrees, the elongation of the stitch greatly affects the warp direction, and the extensibility in the weft direction decreases. As a result, the warp / weft stretch ratio is a predetermined value. It may not be a thing. When the inclination of the stitches of the non-elastic fibers exceeds 70 degrees, the knitting property may be deteriorated and knitting may be difficult.
- the ratio of stitches having a stitch inclination of 20 to 70 degrees in all loops of inelastic fibers in a unit area in the knitted fabric is preferably 20 to 80%, more preferably 25 to 60%.
- the stitches having an inclination existing in the same well are preferably present in a ratio of 50 to 100%.
- the “inclination of the inelastic fiber” defined in the present invention means that the knitted fabric is stretched with a stress of about 22 N in both directions of warp in the digital microscope VHX-500 manufactured by Keyence Corporation.
- a surface photograph of the loop surface is taken at a magnification of 100 times. From the photograph taken, the inclination of the loop of the inelastic fiber with respect to the axis in the course direction is obtained by measuring with a protractor.
- the axis in the course direction is indicated by a straight line approximated from a line connecting the centers of stitches of the same well connected in the course direction.
- the inclination of the loop of the inelastic fiber is an angle (adopting an acute angle side) at which the straight line connecting the base and tip of the loop intersects the straight line indicating the course direction axis in the vicinity of the center of the loop. That is.
- FIG. 2 explains in detail the method of inclining the stitches of the inelastic fibers.
- a schematic diagram of the half tricot 2-way knitted fabric structure is shown in 2b, and an enlarged photograph of the knitted fabric surface is shown in 2c.
- the half tricot knitted fabric is knitted with a 1-0 / 2-3 knitted structure using non-elastic fibers, and the ground structure is combined with a 1-2 / 1-0 knitted structure using elastic fibers. Can be obtained.
- the non-elastic fibers and the elastic fibers have different directions (2a).
- the forces applied to the stitches of the non-elastic fibers and the elastic fibers become equal, and the non-elastic fibers of the knitted fabric
- the stitches are arranged in parallel to the course direction axis.
- the inclinations of the stitches of the non-elastic fibers measured from the photograph 2c are all in the range of 0 to 15 degrees.
- the easily deformable stitches are connected to the course direction, that is, the warp direction of the knitted fabric, so that the stretchability in the warp direction of the knitted fabric becomes large.
- the weft direction of the knitted fabric is determined only by the easiness of extension of the sinker loop connecting the stitches.
- the non-elastic fibers with low extensibility are more elastic than the elastic fibers.
- the stretchability in the weft direction of the knitted fabric is small, and the stretch force ratio in the warp / weft direction during stretching is less than 0.8, resulting in poor instantaneous recovery.
- a schematic diagram of a knitted fabric structure which is a preferred embodiment of the present invention is shown in 2e, and an enlarged photograph of the knitted fabric surface is shown in 2f.
- This is a three-piece kite, and the structure of the non-elastic fiber of the middle kite is set in the same direction with respect to the elastic fiber.
- the non-elastic fiber and the elastic fiber are in the same direction in the stitch formed by the non-elastic fiber of the middle ridge (2d). Can be tilted toward the well.
- Many of the slopes of stitches formed by the non-elastic fibers of the middle heel measured from the photograph of 2f show a range of 20 to 70 degrees.
- This knitted fabric is easily deformed not only in the warp direction but also in the weft direction of the knitted fabric, and easily stretched in the weft direction. As a result, the knitted fabric has excellent stretch force in both directions, stretch force ratio, recovery rate, and excellent instantaneous recovery.
- the first preferred knitting structure is a warp knitted fabric knitted with three folds, a position where elastic fibers are threaded through one fold and the other two folds complement each other through the threading locations. In relation to each other, it is a structure in which inelastic fibers are threaded by 1 in 1 out.
- the elastic fiber is a denby structure
- one of the folds through which the non-elastic fiber is threaded is a plain cord structure in the same direction as the elastic fiber structure, and the other is an elastic fiber. It is preferable that the plain cord organization is in a different direction with respect to the other organization.
- a preferred structure knitted with elastic fibers arranged is a denby structure, and the denby structure has a closed denby structure indicated by 1-2 / 1-0 or an opening indicated by 2-1 / 0-1.
- the elastic fiber structure is knitted with a structure other than the Denby structure, only a strong power can be produced, which is not preferable because the use is limited.
- the non-elastic fiber structure preferably has a 1-in-1-out position so that the non-elastic fibers pass through each other in a positional relationship that complements the thread passing portions. 3, a closed plain code structure indicated by 2-3 / 1-0 or an open plain code structure indicated by 0-1 / 3-2 and 3-2 / 0-1.
- 1-in-1-out threading means threading every other stitch through the thread threading point of the heel.
- either one of the wings through which the non-elastic fiber is threaded is a plain cord structure in the same direction with respect to the elastic fiber structure, and the other is a plane in a different direction with respect to the elastic fiber structure.
- a code organization is preferred. When all the non-elastic fibers are in a different direction from the elastic fibers, the stitches of the non-elastic fibers on the knitted fabric are all aligned in the course direction, and the balance between the stretching force in the warp direction and the weft direction becomes poor, and the instantaneous recovery May get worse.
- the stitches of the non-elastic fibers on the knitted fabric are all inclined in the well direction and are difficult to stretch in the warp direction of the knitted fabric.
- the balance of the stretching force may be deteriorated and the instantaneous recovery property may be deteriorated.
- the second preferred knitted structure is a structure in which at least one kind of inelastic fiber is knitted one course at a time while reciprocating by Atlas knitting over 5 wells by swinging two needles.
- it consists of three folds, and elastic fibers are knitted one course at a time while reciprocating at 3 knitting strokes with one needle swing, and at least one kind of non-elastic fibers is knitted at 5 knitting strokes with two stitches.
- the courses are knitted one by one while reciprocating.
- the atlas knitting of the non-elastic fiber is preferably in the opposite direction to the elastic fiber.
- the elastic fibers are knitted one course at a time while swinging back and forth by atlas knitting over 4 wells with one stitch swing, it may be difficult to balance the non-elastic fibers and the elastic fibers, which may cause a problem in knitting.
- the overlap of sinker loops may increase and the knitted fabric thickness may increase.
- the non-elastic fibers is knitted one course at a time while reciprocating with an atlas knitting in the opposite direction to the elastic fibers over 5 wells with one needle swing, there is no room for the sinker loop of the non-elastic fibers. There may be insufficient elongation.
- the easiness of elongation in the warp direction is reduced and recovered. The fit may be worse when worn as a product because the properties are also reduced.
- the tissue pattern becomes strong and has a specific appearance. It may become.
- the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention when knitting using a three-piece kite, it is preferable that inelastic fibers are passed through the front kite and the middle kite. At this time, the non-elastic fibers arranged in one of the reeds are knitted one course at a time while reciprocating by atlas knitting in the opposite direction to the elastic fiber over 5 wells by swinging two needles, and non-elastic fibers arranged in the other reeds. It is particularly preferable that the elastic fiber is atlas knitted in the same direction as the elastic fiber over 5 wells by swinging with two needles, since it is easy to develop extensibility in both directions.
- the third is a knitted structure of the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention in which the knitted structure of elastic fibers is a two-dimensional knitted structure in each of the two types of knitted structures.
- the double-knitted structure may be knitted only in the same well, or may be knitted across different wells in the course direction, A knitting structure knitted in a zigzag shape in the course direction is preferable.
- the structure is 2-0 / 1-3, 0-2 / 3-1, 2-0 / 1-3 / 3-5 / 4-2, or the like.
- Second stitch knitting not knitted in the course direction in a zigzag manner is not preferable because the elastic fibers overlap each other, and only a tensile stress can be considerably increased, and the thickness of the knitted fabric increases.
- the organization is 2-0 / 2-0 or 2-0 / 0-2.
- the elastic fibers threaded through one ridge are two-knitted knitting structures that are zigzag in the course direction.
- the knitted fabric has a structure in which inelastic fibers are threaded in one-in-one-out manner in a positional relationship in which the other two reeds complement each other with their threading locations.
- Either one of the wings through which the non-elastic fibers are threaded is a plain cord structure in the same direction as the elastic fiber structure knitted in a zigzag shape in the course direction, and the other is the elastic fiber structure.
- a plain cord structure in a different direction is particularly preferable.
- a second preferred knitted structure that is, a warp knitted fabric knitted by a three-piece ridge
- the elastic fibers are knitted in a zigzag shape in the course direction
- at least one of the non-elastic fibers is 2 It is knitted one course at a time while reciprocating atlas knitting over 5 wells by needle swing, and another kind of inelastic fiber reciprocates by atlas knitting in the same direction as the above non-elastic fiber over 5 wells by swinging 2 needles.
- an organization formed by one course is preferable.
- non-elastic fibers when knitting using a three-piece kite, non-elastic fibers may be passed through the front kite or middle kite in a full set. It is preferable that the non-elastic fibers pass through the 1-in-1-out in a positional relationship that complements the yarn locations.
- 1-in-1-out threading means threading every other stitch through the thread threading point of the heel.
- the runner length may be appropriately adjusted so that a stable tension and an excellent fabric quality can be obtained by a combination of the above-described yarn use, yarn fineness, and texture.
- the “runner” refers to the length (cm) of yarn used for knitting a certain number of courses (this is called “rack”, and usually 480 courses are 1 rack).
- the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention can be knitted by a tricot knitting machine or a Russell knitting machine, and the gauge of the knitting machine is not particularly limited. It is preferable to select arbitrarily according to the thickness.
- the basis weight is preferably adjusted according to the required use, and more preferably, the basis weight is adjusted in the range of 100 to 500 (g / m 2 ).
- the thickness of the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably adjusted according to the required application, and more preferably, the thickness is adjusted in the range of 0.4 to 1.0 (mm).
- the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention is processed into a raw machine knitted fabric and then subjected to processing such as refining, heat setting, and dyeing.
- the processing method may be performed according to the processing method of a normal elastic fiber mixed warp knitted fabric.
- antifouling processing antibacterial processing, deodorization processing, deodorization processing, sweat absorption processing, moisture absorption processing, ultraviolet ray absorption processing, weight loss processing, and post processing such as calendar processing, embossing processing, wrinkle processing It can be appropriately applied according to the final required characteristics such as brushed processing, opal processing, and soft processing using a silicon softener.
- the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention can be used for, for example, inner wear that fits the body, sportswear, swimwear, etc., and by using the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention, the feeling of wear is good.
- it is excellent in movement following ability, can contribute to improvement in movement function, and is not limited in application by extension force, hardly loses its shape due to wearing, has excellent wearing feeling and appearance Garments can be manufactured.
- Elongation recovery rate (%) ⁇ [(80 ⁇ (residual elongation)) ⁇ 80] ⁇ 100 Formula (2) Determined by
- a sample sampled 20 cm square was fixed to the fixed sample gripping part 1a of the tester. It fixes to the frame 1b and installs in a testing machine. Further, a push-up round bar 1d is installed on the movable sample gripping portion 1c of the same testing machine. The height of the push-up round bar 1d is adjusted so that the maximum push-up height of the push-up round bar 1d is 6 cm upward from the sample fixing frame 1b. The maximum push-up height of the push-up round bar is set so that the sample at the maximum push-out extends about 50%.
- a high speed camera “Himawari GE200” manufactured by Library Co., Ltd. is installed on a tripod at a horizontal position with the sample fixing frame and a position 20 cm from the front surface of the sample fixing frame.
- the dematcher fatigue tester is set to perform 500 push-up operations per minute and is operated, and the 500th push-up operation is photographed under the condition of 200 frames per second. From the captured video, when the round bar descends after 500 push-up operations, the point when the tip of the round bar passes the lower end of the sample fixing frame is set to 0, and the maximum sample slack from the sample fixing frame within 0.05 seconds from there.
- Example 1 Using a 28-gauge single tricot machine made by KARL MAYER, 34 dtx-18f polyester filaments are placed on the front and middle heels, and 33 dtx polyurethane fibers are placed on the back heels. 1 and 1 in 1 yarn is distributed, the runner is 140 (cm / rack), the middle structure is 1-0 / 2-3 and 1 in 1 out, and the runner is 140 (cm / rack). ), The back structure was knitted at 1-0 / 1-2, and the runner was knitted at 89 (cm / rack) to obtain a living machine.
- FIG. 3 shows this organization chart.
- This raw machine was processed by the usual dyeing and water absorption softening process of elastic warp knitted fabric to obtain a knitted fabric. That is, a 50 ° C bath, a 60 ° C bath, an 80 ° C bath, a total of 3 baths are used for relaxation and refining, heat setting is performed at 190 ° C, and a commercially available polyester water absorbent is used in combination. After dyeing at 0 ° C. and applying a commercial softening agent, a finishing set was carried out at 170 ° C. to obtain a fabric with a basis weight and density shown in Table 1 below. The evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric was a knitted fabric excellent in the background elongation balance and stretch recovery property, having a good fit, and having little collapse of the wearing mold.
- Example 2 The front organization is 1-0 / 2-3, the runner is 154 (cm / rack), the middle organization is 3-4 / 2-1, the runner is 150 (cm / rack), and the back runner is 86 (
- a knitted fabric having a basis weight and a density shown in Table 1 below was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the knitting was performed in (cm / rack).
- the evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric are shown in Table 1 below.
- the obtained knitted fabric was excellent in the background elongation balance and the stretch recovery property, and was a knitted fabric with little collapse of the wearing mold.
- Example 3 Except for knitting the front runner at 146 (cm / rack), the middle structure at 3-2 / 0-1, the runner at 146 (cm / rack), and the back runner at 85 (cm / rack) Under the same conditions as in Example 1, fabrics having the basis weight and density shown in Table 1 below were obtained. The evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric was excellent in the background elongation balance and the stretch recovery property, and was a knitted fabric with little collapse of the wearing mold.
- Example 4 A fabric with the basis weight and density shown in Table 1 below was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that 44 dtx-34f nylon filaments were arranged on the front and middle ridges. The evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric was slightly inferior in the background elongation balance, but was excellent in elongation recovery and small in wear-type collapse.
- Example 5 Using a 28-gauge single tricot machine made by KARL MAYER, 44 dtex / 24 f polyester filaments are passed through the front and middle heels in 1-in-1 each, and 22 dtex polyurethane fibers are passed through the back heel in a full set.
- the front structure is 4-5 / 3-2 / 1-0 / 2-3, the runner is 154 (cm / rack), and the middle structure is 2-1 / 3-4 / 5-6 / 4-4- 3.
- the runner was knitted at 150 (cm / rack), the back structure was knitted at 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-3 / 2-1 and the runner was knitted at 86 (cm / rack) to obtain a living machine.
- the raw machine was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric having a basis weight and density shown in Table 1 below.
- the evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric are shown in Table 1 below.
- the obtained knitted fabric was a knitted fabric excellent in the background elongation balance and stretch recovery property, having a good fit, and having little collapse of the wearing mold.
- Example 6 Using a 32 gauge single tricot machine made by KARL MAYER, a 33 dtex / 48 f polyester filament was passed through the front heel and a 22 dtex polyurethane fiber was passed through the back heel with a full set. -2 / 1-0 / 2-3, the runner 140 (cm / rack), the back structure 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-3 / 2-1, the runner 70 (cm / rack) I knew it and got a living machine.
- FIG. 5 shows this organization chart.
- the raw machine was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric having a basis weight and density shown in Table 1 below.
- the evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric are shown in Table 1 below.
- the obtained knitted fabric was a knitted fabric excellent in the background elongation balance and stretch recovery property, having a good fit, and having little collapse of the wearing mold.
- Example 7 44 dtex / 36f polyester filament is passed through the front and middle heels, 44 dtex polyurethane fiber is passed through the back heel, the front runner is 152 (cm / rack), the middle runner is 146 (cm / rack), and the back runner is A fabric with the basis weight and density shown in Table 1 below was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 5 except that the thickness was 85 (cm / rack). The evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric was a knitted fabric excellent in the background elongation balance and stretch recovery property, having a good fit, and having little collapse of the wearing mold.
- Example 8 Using a KARL MAYER 28-gauge single tricot machine, 56 dtx / 36 f polyester filaments are placed on the front and middle heels, and 44 dtx polyurethane fibers are placed on the back heels. 1 and 1 in 1 yarn is distributed, the runner is 165 (cm / rack), the middle structure is 1-0 / 2-3 and 1 in 1 out, and the runner is 160 (cm / rack). ), The back structure was knitted at 2-0 / 1-3, and the runner was knitted at 190 (cm / rack) to obtain a living machine.
- FIG. 6 shows this organization chart.
- the raw machine was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric having a basis weight and density shown in Table 1 below.
- the evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric are shown in Table 1 below.
- the obtained knitted fabric was a knitted fabric excellent in the background elongation balance and stretch recovery property, having a good fit, and having little collapse of the wearing mold.
- Example 9 The front structure is 4-5 / 3-2 / 1-0 / 2-3, the runner is 175 (cm / rack), the middle structure is 2-1 / 3-4 / 5-6 / 4-3, Except that the runner was knitted at 175 (cm / rack), it was knitted under the same conditions as in Example 8 to obtain a raw machine.
- FIG. 7 shows this organization chart.
- the raw machine was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric having a basis weight and density shown in Table 1 below.
- the evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric are shown in Table 1 below.
- the obtained knitted fabric was a knitted fabric excellent in the background elongation balance and stretch recovery property, having a good fit, and having little collapse of the wearing mold.
- the wear feeling is good, the exercise followability is excellent, and it can contribute to the improvement of the exercise function.
- the application is not limited by the stretching force, and it is possible to produce a garment that is less likely to lose its shape due to wearing and that has an excellent wearing feeling and appearance.
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Abstract
Description
そのため、伸長性と伸長回復性とを、経緯両方向で適切なバランスで発揮させることを目的にして、弾性糸を二目編で編成し、コース方向の密度を所定のものとすることで、経と緯の伸長応力を比較的同じレベルにする方法が提案されているが、弾性繊維の伸長回復性を左右する非弾性繊維の編成方法については全く触れられておらず、衣服としたときの回復性からくる運動追随性において、不十分となる問題がある。(以下の特許文献1を参照のこと)。また、弾性糸がループを形成してなる緯編組織で編成したり、弾性糸を地組織に挿入して編成することにより、経と緯の伸長性を比較的同じレベルにまで合わせる方法が提案されているが、この方法では伸長させる為に大きな力が必要なものしか得られず、用途が限定され、ショーツやインナーシャツ、スポーツアンダーシャツ等の比較的小さい力で伸張することが要求される用途には適さないという問題がある(以下の特許文献2を参照のこと)。
すなわち、本発明は、以下のとおりのものである。
本発明の弾性経編地は、弾性繊維と非弾性繊維が用いられてなることを特徴とする。
本発明で使用される非弾性繊維は、フィラメント糸又は紡績糸のいずれであってもよい。具体的には、フィラメント糸としては、レーヨン、アセテート繊維、ポリアミド系繊維、ポリエステル系繊維、アクリル系繊維、ポリプロピレン系繊維、塩化ビニル系繊維等の化合繊からなるものが好ましい。フィラメント糸の形態は、原糸(未加工糸)、仮撚加工糸、先染糸などのいずれであってもよく、また、これらの複合糸であってもよい。
紡績糸としては、木綿、羊毛、麻などの天然繊維、レーヨン、アセテート、ポリアミド系繊維、ポリエステル系繊維、アクリル系繊維、ポリプロピレン系繊維、塩化ビニル系繊維等の化合繊からなるものが好ましく、これらは単独又は混紡されたもの等、いずれであってもよい。
すなわち用途によって、適宜好適な素材を選定すればよい。また、繊度や単糸数についても特に限定されるものではなく、用途や、使用する編機のゲージに好適な繊度や単糸数のものを選定すればよい。
本発明の弾性経編地は、弾性繊維がフルセットで通糸され、弾性繊維がループを形成していることが好ましい。弾性繊維をフルセットで通糸しない場合、弾性繊維が入っていない部分の伸張特性が低下することがあり、弾性繊維がループを構成しない場合は、伸長時の応力が高いものしかできないことや、編地内の弾性繊維の位置が安定せず、衣服として着用したときの型崩れや表面品位が悪化することがある。
経方向及び緯方向の伸長力は、好ましくは100cN~500cN、より好ましくは100cN~300cN、更に好ましくは100cN~200cNである。伸長力が100cN未満であると、伸長回復性が悪くなることがあり、一方、伸長力が600cNを超えると、伸長力が大き過ぎることにより、運動時に突っ張り感を感じることがある。また、伸長力比は、好ましくは0.9~1.7、より好ましくは0.9~1.6、更に好ましくは1.0~1.5である。この80%伸長時の経方向/緯方向の伸長力比が0.8未満もしくは1.8を超えると、製品として着用した時に型崩れが生じたり、フィット感が悪くなることがある。
伸長力比=(経方向伸長力)÷(緯方向伸長力) 式(1)
で求められる値である。
ここで「80%伸長・回復を3回繰り返した後の経方向及び緯方向の伸長回復率」とは、以下に説明するように、弾性経編地の経方向及び緯方向の引張試験において、伸長率80%までの繰返し伸長回復における往路応力及び復路応力を測定して得られた伸長回復曲線から3回伸長回復後の残留伸び(%)を読み取り、下記式(2):
伸長回復率(%)=[(80-(残留伸び))÷80]×100 式(2)
により求められる値である。
この時の試料たるみの少ないものほど、瞬間的な回復性に優れ、運動時の追随性が良好となり、突き上げ500回後の最大試料たるみが好ましくは3.0mm以下、特に好ましくは2.0mm以下である。
非弾性繊維の編目の傾きが20度未満であると、編目の伸長が経方向に大きく影響することとなり、緯方向の伸長性が低下し、その結果、経/緯の伸長力比が所定のものにならないことがある。非弾性繊維の編目の傾きが70度を超えると、編成性が悪化し、編成困難となることがある。編地中の単位面積における非弾性繊維の全ループにおける、編目の傾きが20~70度の編目の割合が20~80%であることが好ましく、より好ましくは25~60%である。
傾きをもつ編目の配置においては、1ウェル毎に存在することが好ましく、更に、同一ウェル内に存在する傾きをもつ編目は50~100%の比率で存在することが好ましい。
ここで、コース方向の軸とは、コース方向に連なる同一ウェルの編目の中心を結ぶ線から近似される直線で示される。非弾性繊維のループの傾きとは、該ループの根元と先端を結んだ直線が、ループの中心付近において上記コース方向の軸を示す直線との間で交差する角度(鋭角側を採用する)のことである。
ハーフトリコット2way編地組織の模式図を2b、編地表面の拡大写真を2cに示す。該ハーフトリコット編地は非弾性繊維を用いて地組織を1-0/2-3の編組織で編成し、この地組織に弾性繊維を用いて1-2/1-0の編組織を組み合わせることによって得られる。この編地は、全ての編目において、非弾性繊維と弾性繊維が異方向であり(2a)、その結果、非弾性繊維と弾性繊維の編目にかかる力が均等となり、編地上の非弾性繊維の編目はコース方向の軸に平行に整列する構成となる。2cの写真から実測される、非弾性繊維の編目の傾きは全て0~15度の範囲である。
一つ目の好ましい編組織は、三枚筬により編成されてなる経編地において、一つの筬に弾性繊維が通糸され、その他の二つの筬に、互いにその通糸箇所を補完しあう位置関係に、それぞれ1イン1アウトで非弾性繊維が通糸されている組織である。特に、弾性繊維がデンビー組織であり、更に、非弾性繊維が通糸されている筬のどちらか一方の組織が、弾性繊維の組織に対し同方向のプレーンコード組織であり、もう一方が弾性繊維の組織に対し異方向のプレーンコード組織であることが好ましい。
非弾性繊維の組織は、生地の厚みを抑えるため、互いにその通糸箇所を補完しあう位置関係に、それぞれ1イン1アウトで非弾性繊維が通糸することが好ましく、1-0/2-3、2-3/1-0で示される閉じ目のプレーンコード組織、または0-1/3-2、3-2/0-1で示される開き目のプレーンコード組織が好ましい。ここで、1イン1アウトの通糸とは、筬の通糸箇所に対して1針おきに通糸することである。
本発明に弾性経編地の弾性繊維を二目編みにする時、二目編みの組織は同一のウェルだけで編成されてもよく、コース方向に異なるウェルをまたいで編成されてもよいが、コース方向にジグザク状に編成する編み組織が好ましく、例えば、組織としては2-0/1-3や0-2/3-1、2-0/1-3/3-5/4-2などがある。ジグザグ状にコース方向に編成しない二目編みは、弾性繊維の重なりが多くなり、伸長応力がかなり大きいものしかできないことや、編地の厚みが増えることがあり好ましくない。例えば、組織としては2-0/2-0や2-0/0-2などである。
本発明の弾性経編地において、三枚筬を使用し編成する場合、フロント筬やミドル筬に非弾性繊維をフルセットで通糸してもよいが、生地の厚みを抑える為、互いにその通糸箇所を補完しあう位置関係に、それぞれ1イン1アウトで非弾性繊維が通糸することが好ましい。ここで、1イン1アウトの通糸とは、筬の通糸箇所に対して1針おきに通糸することである。
本発明の弾性経編地は、要求される用途に準じて厚みを調整することが好ましく、より好ましくは、厚み0.4~1.0(mm)の範囲で調整するとよい。
本発明の弾性経編地は、生機編地とした後、精錬、熱セット、染色等の加工を行う。加工方法は、通常の弾性繊維混経編地の加工方法に準じて行えばよい。また、要求される伸度特性、伸度バランスにより、適宜仕上げ密度を調整することが好ましく、より好ましくは仕上げ密度を1インチ(2.54cm)当たり50~100ウェル、80~150コースの範囲で調整するとよい。
実施例における各評価は次のとおり行った。
(1)ウェル方向への非弾性繊維の傾き
(株)キーエンス社製デジタルマイクロスコープVHX-500にて、編地を経緯両方向同時に約22Nの応力で伸長させた状態で、ニードルループ面の表面写真を倍率100倍にて撮影する。撮影した写真から、以下の基準で求めたコース方向の軸に対する非弾性繊維の各ループの傾きを分度器で測定する。
コース方向の軸:コース方向に連なる編目の中心から近似される直線で示される。
非弾性繊維のループの傾き:1つのループの根元と先端を結んだ直線が、ループの中心付近において上記コース方向の軸を示す直線との間で交差する角度(鋭角側を採用する)で示される。
引張試験機を使用し、2.5cm巾で10cmの把持間隔で把持した編地を引張速度300mm/分で伸長・回復を3回繰り返し、伸長率80%までの往路応力、復路応力を測定し、伸長回復曲線を描き、伸長1回目における伸長率80%時の応力を伸長力とした。経方向及び緯方向の伸長回復曲線からそれぞれの伸長力を読み取り、下記式(1):
伸長力比=(経方向伸長力)÷(緯方向伸長力) 式(1)
により求めた。
伸長力比の試験方法で得られた伸長回復曲線から3回目の残留伸び(%)を読み取り、下記式(2):
伸長回復率(%)={[(80-(残留伸び))÷80]×100 式(2)
により求めた。
図1に示す大栄科学精器(株)製のデマッチャー疲労試験機(DC-3型)を使用し、試験機の固定試料把持部1aに20cm角にサンプリングした試料を試料固定枠1bに固定し、試験機に設置する。更に、同試験機の可動試料把持部1cに突き上げ丸棒1dを設置する。突き上げ丸棒1dの最大突き上げ高さは試料固定枠1bから上方に6cmとなるように突き上げ丸棒の高さを調節する。突き上げ丸棒の最大突き上げ高さは最大突き上げ時の試料が約50%伸長するように設定したものである。
次に(株)ライブラリー社製高速度カメラ「ひまわりGE200」を三脚にて試料固定枠と水平位置及び、試料固定枠前面から20cmの位置に設置する。
デマッチャー疲労試験機を1分間に500回の突き上げ動作を行うように設定し、稼動させ、500回目の突き上げ動作を1秒間に200コマの条件で撮影する。
撮影した動画より、突き上げ動作500回後の丸棒下降時に丸棒の先端が試料固定枠の下端を通過した時点を0として、そこから0.05秒以内の試料固定枠からの最大試料たるみを、(株)ライブラリー社製動作解析ソフト「Move-tr/2D」を使用し測定する。
実施例で作製した弾性経編地を用いて身体にフィットするテニスシャツを縫製し、2時間テニスをした後、脱衣し、特に肘部の編地の型崩れ(変形)の有無を、また、肘部の編地が変形したシャツについては脱衣後に手で揉んで変形が無くなるか否かを加味して、以下の評価基準で目視判定した。実用上問題がないのは下記の基準で3以上である:
5 : 型崩れが全く無い
4 : 若干肘部に型崩れが生じているが気にならない
3 : 肘部が変形しているが、揉むと変形が解消する
2 : 肘部の変形が大きく、かなり揉まないと元に戻らない
1 : 肘部の変形が甚だしく、かなり揉んでもほとんど元に戻らない
カールマイヤー製の28ゲージのシングルトリコット機を用いて、フロントとミドルの筬に34dtx-18fのポリエステルフィラメントを、バックの筬に33dtxのポリウレタン繊維を配し、フロントの組織を3-4/2-1かつ1イン1アウトで配糸し、該ランナーを140(cm/ラック)、ミドルの組織を1-0/2-3かつ1イン1アウトで配糸し、該ランナーを140(cm/ラック)、バックの組織を1-0/1-2、該ランナーを89(cm/ラック)で編成し、生機を得た。図3に、この組織図を示す。
この生機を弾性経編地の通常の染色および吸水柔軟加工工程で加工し、編地を得た。すなわち、50℃の槽、60℃の槽、80℃の槽、計3槽を用いて、リラックス、精錬を行い、190℃で熱セットを行い、さらに市販のポリエステル用吸水剤を併用し、130℃で染色、市販の柔軟剤を付与後、170℃で仕上げセットを実施し、以下の表1に示す目付及び密度の編地を得た。
得られた編地の評価結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地は経緯伸長バランスと伸長回復性に優れ、フィット感が良好で着用型崩れの小さい編地であった。
フロントの組織を1-0/2-3、該ランナーを154(cm/ラック)、ミドルの組織を3-4/2-1、該ランナーを150(cm/ラック)、バックのランナーを86(cm/ラック)で編成する以外は、実施例1と同じ条件で、以下の表1に示す目付及び密度の編地を得た。
得られた編地の評価結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地は経緯伸長バランスと伸長回復性に優れ、着用型崩れの小さい編地であった。
フロントのランナーを146(cm/ラック)、ミドルの組織を3-2/0-1、該ランナーを146(cm/ラック)、バックのランナーを85(cm/ラック)で編成する以外は、実施例1と同じ条件で、以下の表1に示す目付及び密度の編地を得た。
得られた編地の評価結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地は経緯伸長バランスと伸長回復性に優れ、着用型崩れの小さい編地であった。
フロントとミドルの筬に44dtx-34fのナイロンフィラメントを配する以外は、実施例1と同じ条件で、以下の表1に示す目付及び密度の編地を得た。
得られた編地の評価結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地は経緯伸長バランスがやや劣るが、伸長回復性に優れ、着用型崩れの小さい編地であった。
カールマイヤー製の28ゲージのシングルトリコット機を用いて、フロント筬及びミドル筬に44dtex/24fのポリエステルフィラメントをそれぞれ1イン1アウトで通糸し、バック筬に22dtexのポリウレタン繊維をフルセットで通糸し、フロントの組織を4-5/3-2/1-0/2-3、該ランナーを154(cm/ラック)、ミドルの組織を2-1/3-4/5-6/4-3、該ランナーを150(cm/ラック)、バックの組織を1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1、該ランナーを86(cm/ラック)で編成し、生機を得た。図4に、この組織図を示す。この生機を実施例1と同様に染色加工し、以下の表1に示す目付及び密度の編地を得た。
得られた編地の評価結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地は経緯伸長バランスと伸長回復性に優れ、フィット感が良好で着用型崩れの小さい編地であった。
カールマイヤー製の32ゲージのシングルトリコット機を用いて、フロント筬に33dtex/48fのポリエステルフィラメントを、バック筬に22dtexのポリウレタン繊維をそれぞれフルセットで通糸し、フロントの組織を4-5/3-2/1-0/2-3、該ランナーを140(cm/ラック)、バックの組織を1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1、該ランナーを70(cm/ラック)で編成し、生機を得た。図5に、この組織図を示す。
この生機を実施例1と同様に染色加工し、以下の表1に示す目付及び密度の編地を得た。
得られた編地の評価結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地は経緯伸長バランスと伸長回復性に優れ、フィット感が良好で着用型崩れの小さい編地であった。
フロント筬及びミドル筬に44dtex/36fのポリエステルフィラメント、バック筬に44dtexのポリウレタン繊維を通糸し、フロントのランナーを152(cm/ラック)、ミドルのランナーを146(cm/ラック)、バックのランナーを85(cm/ラック)にした以外は、実施例5と同じ条件で、以下の表1に示す目付及び密度の編地を得た。
得られた編地の評価結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地は経緯伸長バランスと伸長回復性に優れ、フィット感が良好で着用型崩れの小さい編地であった。
カールマイヤー製の28ゲージのシングルトリコット機を用いて、フロントとミドルの筬に56dtx/36fのポリエステルフィラメントを、バックの筬に44dtxのポリウレタン繊維を配し、フロントの組織を3-4/2-1かつ1イン1アウトで配糸し、該ランナーを165(cm/ラック)、ミドルの組織を1-0/2-3かつ1イン1アウトで配糸し、該ランナーを160(cm/ラック)、バックの組織を2-0/1-3、該ランナーを190(cm/ラック)で編成し、生機を得た。図6に、この組織図を示す。この生機を実施例1と同様に染色加工し、以下の表1に示す目付及び密度の編地を得た。
得られた編地の評価結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地は経緯伸長バランスと伸長回復性に優れ、フィット感が良好で着用型崩れの小さい編地であった。
フロントの組織を4-5/3-2/1-0/2-3、該ランナーを175(cm/ラック)、ミドルの組織を2-1/3-4/5-6/4-3、該ランナーを175(cm/ラック)で編成する以外は、実施例8と同じ条件で編成し、生機を得た。図7に、この組織図を示す。この生機を実施例1と同様に染色加工し、以下の表1に示す目付及び密度の編地を得た。
得られた編地の評価結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地は経緯伸長バランスと伸長回復性に優れ、フィット感が良好で着用型崩れの小さい編地であった。
カールマイヤー製の28ゲージのシングルトリコット機を用いて、フロント筬に34dtex/18fのポリエステルフィラメント、バック筬に33dtexのポリウレタン繊維をそれぞれフルセットで通糸し、フロントの組織を2-3/1-0、該ランナーを140(cm/ラック)、バックの組織を1-0/1-2、該ランナーを89(cm/ラック)で編成し、生機を得た。図8に、この組織図を示す。この生機を実施例1と同様に染色加工し、以下の表1に示す目付及び密度の編地を得た。
得られた編地の評価結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地は経緯伸長バランスが悪く、フィット感が劣り着用型崩れの大きい編地であった。
フロント及びミドルの筬に34dtex/18fのポリエステルフィラメント、バック筬に33dtexのポリウレタン繊維をそれぞれフルセットで通糸し、フロントの組織を1-0/4-5、該ランナーを200(cm/ラック)、ミドルの組織を2-3/1-0、該ランナーを140(cm/ラック)、バックの組織を1-0/1-2、該ランナーを89(cm/ラック)で編成し、生機を得た。図9に、この組織図を示す。この生機を実施例1と同様に染色加工し、以下の表1に示す目付及び密度の編地を得た。
得られた編地の評価結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地は経緯伸長バランスが悪く、フィット感が劣り着用型崩れの大きい編地であった。
カールマイヤー製の32ゲージのシングルトリコット機を用いて、フロント筬に33dtex/10fのナイロンフィラメント、バック筬に22dtexのポリウレタン繊維をそれぞれフルセットで通糸し、フロントの組織を2-3/2-1/1-0/1-2、該ランナーを110(cm/ラック)、バックの組織を1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1、該ランナーを70(cm/ラック)で編成し、生機を得た。図10に、この組織図を示す。この生機を実施例1と同様に染色加工し、以下の表1に示す目付及び密度の編地を得た。
得られた編地の評価結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地は経緯伸長バランスが悪く、フィット感が劣り着用型崩れの大きい編地であった。
カールマイヤー製の28ゲージのシングルトリコット機を用いて、フロント筬に56dtex/36fのポリエステルフィラメント、バック筬に44dtexのポリウレタン繊維をそれぞれフルセットで通糸し、フロントの組織を1-0/2-3、該ランナーを165(cm/ラック)、バックの組織を1-3/2-0、該ランナーを190(cm/ラック)で編成し、生機を得た。図11に、この組織図を示す。この生機を実施例1と同様に染色加工し、以下の表1に示す目付及び密度の編地を得た。
得られた編地の評価結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地は経緯伸長バランスが悪く、フィット感が劣り着用型崩れの大きい編地であった。
1b 試料固定枠
1c 可動試料把持部
1d 突き上げ丸棒
A フロント筬に配される非弾性繊維
B ミドル筬に配される非弾性繊維
C バック筬に配される弾性繊維
Claims (9)
- 少なくとも二枚の筬により編成されてなる弾性経編地であって、少なくとも一つの筬に弾性繊維が、その他の筬に非弾性繊維が、それぞれ、配されてなり、該編地の80%伸長時の、経方向の伸長力と緯方向の伸長力がいずれも100cN~600cNであり、経方向の伸長力/緯方向の伸長力の比が0.8~1.8であり、かつ、80%伸長・回復を3回繰り返した後の経方向の伸長回復率と緯方向の伸長回復率がいずれも85%以上であることを特徴とする前記弾性経編地。
- 前記弾性繊維は、筬にフルセットで通糸され、かつ、ループを形成している、請求項1に記載の弾性経編地。
- 前記非弾性繊維の編目の傾きが20~70度である、請求項2に記載の弾性経編地。
- 三枚筬により編成されており、一つの筬に弾性繊維が通糸され、他の二つの筬に、互いにその通糸箇所を補完しあう位置関係に、それぞれ、1イン1アウトで非弾性繊維が通糸されている、請求項1~3のいずれか1項に記載の弾性経編地。
- 前記弾性繊維が通糸されている筬の組織は、デンビー組織であり、そして前記非弾性繊維が通糸されている筬の内のいずれか一方の組織が、前記弾性繊維が通糸されている筬の組織に対し同方向のプレーンコード組織であり、他方の組織が、前記弾性繊維が通糸されている筬の組織に対し異方向のプレーンコード組織である、請求項4に記載の弾性経編地。
- 前記弾性繊維が通糸されている筬の組織は、コース方向にジグザグ状に編成された二目編組織であり、そして前記非弾性繊維が通糸されている筬の内のいずれか一方の組織が、前記弾性繊維が通糸されている筬の組織に対し同方向のプレーンコード組織であり、他方の組織が、前記弾性繊維が通糸されている筬の組織に対し異方向のプレーンコード組織である、請求項4に記載の弾性経編地。
- 前記非弾性繊維の少なくとも1種は、2針振りで5ウェルにわたってアトラス編みにて往復しながら1コースずつ編成されている、請求項1~3のいずれか1項に記載の弾性経編地。
- 三枚筬により編成されており、一つの筬において弾性繊維は、1針振りで3ウェルにわたってアトラス編みにて往復しながら1コースずつ編成され、他の筬において非弾性繊維は、前記弾性繊維と同方向に、2針振りで5ウェルにわたってアトラス編みにて往復しながら1コースずつ編成されており、そして残りの筬において非弾性繊維は、前記非弾性繊維と異方向に、2針振りで5ウェルにわたってアトラス編みにて往復しながら1コースずつ編成されている、請求項7に記載の弾性経編地。
- 三枚筬により編成されており、一つの筬において弾性繊維は、二目編組織でコース方向にジグザグ状に編成され、他の筬において非弾性繊維は、2針振りで5ウェルにわたってアトラス編みにて往復しながら1コースずつ編成されており、そして残りの筬において非弾性繊維は、前記非弾性繊維と異方向に、2針振りで5ウェルにわたってアトラス編みにて往復しながら1コースずつ編成されている、請求項7に記載の弾性経編地。
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CN201080055534.4A CN102648313B (zh) | 2009-12-07 | 2010-08-30 | 弹性经编织物 |
EP10835750.0A EP2511405B1 (en) | 2009-12-07 | 2010-08-30 | Elastic warp knitted fabric |
EP15164696.5A EP2937453B1 (en) | 2009-12-07 | 2010-08-30 | Elastic warp knitted fabric |
JP2011545107A JP5700688B2 (ja) | 2009-12-07 | 2010-08-30 | 弾性経編地 |
US13/514,111 US9279201B2 (en) | 2009-12-07 | 2010-08-30 | Elastic warp knitted fabric |
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EP (2) | EP2937453B1 (ja) |
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CN (1) | CN102648313B (ja) |
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JP2012122171A (ja) * | 2010-12-10 | 2012-06-28 | Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co Ltd | 経編地及びその製造方法 |
WO2015005432A1 (ja) * | 2013-07-12 | 2015-01-15 | 旭化成せんい株式会社 | 弾性丸編地 |
US9856587B2 (en) | 2013-07-12 | 2018-01-02 | Asahi Kasei Kabushiki Kaisha | Elastic circular knitted fabric |
KR101838411B1 (ko) * | 2013-07-12 | 2018-03-13 | 아사히 가세이 가부시키가이샤 | 탄성 환편지 |
JP6133458B1 (ja) * | 2016-02-09 | 2017-05-24 | ウラベ株式会社 | 伸縮性経編地 |
JP2017141518A (ja) * | 2016-02-09 | 2017-08-17 | ウラベ株式会社 | 伸縮性経編地 |
JP2017203232A (ja) * | 2016-05-11 | 2017-11-16 | 旭化成株式会社 | 伸縮性経編地 |
JP2018024960A (ja) * | 2016-08-12 | 2018-02-15 | 旭化成株式会社 | セルロース繊維交編経編地 |
JP2018188769A (ja) * | 2017-05-08 | 2018-11-29 | 旭化成株式会社 | 伸縮性経編地 |
JP2019135336A (ja) * | 2018-02-05 | 2019-08-15 | 北陸エステアール協同組合 | 伸縮性経編地 |
JP2020026604A (ja) * | 2018-08-17 | 2020-02-20 | アサヒマカム株式会社 | ネット構造の伸縮性経編地 |
JP7142349B2 (ja) | 2018-08-17 | 2022-09-27 | アサヒマカム株式会社 | ネット構造の伸縮性経編地 |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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CN102648313A (zh) | 2012-08-22 |
CN102648313B (zh) | 2014-10-01 |
US9279201B2 (en) | 2016-03-08 |
EP2937453A1 (en) | 2015-10-28 |
TWI406986B (zh) | 2013-09-01 |
JP2015007308A (ja) | 2015-01-15 |
EP2937453B1 (en) | 2021-06-16 |
EP2511405A4 (en) | 2014-12-17 |
EP2511405B1 (en) | 2018-07-18 |
JPWO2011070828A1 (ja) | 2013-04-22 |
JP5953470B2 (ja) | 2016-07-20 |
TW201120265A (en) | 2011-06-16 |
US20120244773A1 (en) | 2012-09-27 |
EP2511405A1 (en) | 2012-10-17 |
JP5700688B2 (ja) | 2015-04-15 |
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