WO2010107010A1 - 粉末組成物の製造方法及び粉末化粧料 - Google Patents
粉末組成物の製造方法及び粉末化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2010107010A1 WO2010107010A1 PCT/JP2010/054383 JP2010054383W WO2010107010A1 WO 2010107010 A1 WO2010107010 A1 WO 2010107010A1 JP 2010054383 W JP2010054383 W JP 2010054383W WO 2010107010 A1 WO2010107010 A1 WO 2010107010A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
- A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4993—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a method for producing a powder composition, a powder cosmetic containing the powder composition obtained by the production method, and a method for producing a solid powder cosmetic using the powder composition obtained by the production method. . More specifically, the present invention relates to a method for producing a powder makeup such as a foundation or a makeup base that is excellent in use feeling and makeup durability.
- Powder cosmetics represented by powdery foundations combined with the recent diversification and sophistication of user needs, satisfying usability when applied to the skin and usability when applied to the skin. In addition, further improvements are required in terms of productivity and work environment.
- a method for producing a powder cosmetic obtained by highly dispersing a powder component and an oily component in a volatile solvent and then performing dry fine particle formation with a flash dryer has been proposed ( Patent Document 1).
- the powder cosmetic obtained by the above production method has a good texture that is smooth and uniform while having a moist feeling like a liquid when applied to the skin.
- the oil component is uniformly coated on the powder by slurry mixing in a volatile solvent, it is easy to become familiar with the sebum secreted from the skin after applying the cosmetic, and it is not fully satisfactory for makeup. . Therefore, even if it can be provided as a powder cosmetic for autumn and winter, it has been difficult to apply to a powder cosmetic for spring and summer.
- Patent Document 2 a technique that uses a fluorine-treated powder and a technique that uses a high-viscosity nonpolar silicone (Patent Document 3) have been proposed.
- Patent Document 3 a technique that uses a high-viscosity nonpolar silicone
- the fluorinated powder is used in combination, the cosmetic durability effect is improved, but since the fluorinated powder is less compatible with the oil component, the oil component is likely to be localized in the drying process after slurrying, resulting in quality variations. There was a problem in stably producing a large amount of products.
- Patent Document 4 in order to improve the longevity of makeup, it is known to blend highly polymerized amino-modified silicone into makeup cosmetics.
- highly polymerized amino-modified silicones do not have fluidity and need to be dissolved in a volatile solvent, etc., and the degree of freedom of formulation and container is low, and the highly polymerized amino-modified silicone formed after the solvent is volatilized Since the silicone film exhibits a long lasting effect, when applied to a powder cosmetic, it is not fully satisfactory in terms of use feeling.
- An object of the present invention is to provide a production method that improves the quality of powder cosmetics and improves the productivity in the production process. It is another object of the present invention to provide a powder cosmetics excellent in moist feeling of use and makeup lasting (preventing collapse of makeup), particularly powder makeup cosmetics such as foundations.
- the present invention comprises a slurry preparation step in which a powder component and a non-volatile oil component are mixed in a volatile solvent to form a slurry;
- a method for producing a powder composition comprising a drying step of drying the slurry to remove a volatile solvent, In the drying step, the slurry is made into fine droplets by mechanical shearing force, and a drying device is used to dry the slurry by blowing a dry gas to the fine droplets,
- the non-volatile oil component is (A) an amino-modified silicone having a functional group equivalent of 1000 to 10,000 and a viscosity at 25 ° C.
- the present invention provides a drying apparatus used in the drying step in the above manufacturing method, A hollow housing; Shearing means for shearing the slurry by a shearing member provided in the housing to form microdroplets; Supply means for supplying slurry to the shearing member in the housing; Blower means for blowing dry gas into the housing, supplying the dry gas to the slurry made into fine droplets by the shearing means, and bringing it into contact with the slurry;
- the present invention provides a method for producing a powder composition, comprising: a drying device provided with a collecting means for collecting a powder composition produced by drying the slurry.
- the present invention in the slurry preparation step, a powder component and a non-volatile oil component are mixed in a volatile solvent using a medium stirring mill, and the powder component is crushed and / or pulverized and / or dispersed.
- the present invention provides a method for producing a powder composition characterized in that a slurry is obtained.
- the powder component and the non-volatile oily component are 70 to 98% by mass, preferably 80 to 95% by mass, and preferably 2 to 30% by mass, preferably 80 to 95% by mass, based on the total amount of the powder composition.
- the present invention provides a method for producing a powder composition comprising sorbitan fatty acid ester as a lipophilic nonionic surfactant.
- the present invention provides a method for producing a powder composition, which further comprises an extender pigment, a white pigment and a colored pigment as the powder component.
- the present invention provides a method for producing a powder composition, which further comprises 2 to 20% by mass of a red synthetic fluorine phlogopite containing an iron atom in the crystal structure as a powder component.
- the present invention provides a powder cosmetic characterized by containing 80 to 100% of the powder composition obtained by the above production method with respect to the total amount of the powder cosmetic.
- the powder composition obtained by any one of the production methods described above is optionally provided with a solidification step of filling a container together with other optional components such as a pearl pigment and solidifying by dry press molding.
- the present invention provides a method for producing a powdered solid cosmetic and a powdered solid cosmetic obtained by the production method.
- the present invention it is possible to obtain a powder composition that is uniformly coated with a non-volatile oil component and imparts a water / oil repellent effect without aggregation of the powder component even in the drying step.
- this powder composition it is possible to provide a powder cosmetic that is excellent in use feeling, in particular, adhesion to the skin, moist feeling, and very excellent in makeup.
- the powder composition is filled into a container and solidified, a solid powder cosmetic that is extremely easy to use and excellent in use feeling and cosmetics can be obtained.
- the localization of the oily component is difficult to occur even in the drying step, and the powder cosmetic of uniform quality can be stably produced even in mass production.
- the present invention relates to a slurry preparation step in which a powder component and a non-volatile oil component are mixed in a volatile solvent to form a slurry, and a powder composition obtained by removing the volatile solvent from the slurry by a specific drying step. It is a manufacturing method.
- the inventors of the present invention focused on the process of removing the volatile solvent and conducted extensive studies on various drying processes.
- the present invention it is possible to produce a powder cosmetic excellent in productivity and work environment as well as in these quality aspects. Furthermore, by molding the powder composition by ordinary dry molding, it has become possible to produce a solid powder cosmetic that is extremely excellent in terms of usability such as good puffing.
- FIG. 1 is a diagram showing an example of a device configuration used in the manufacturing method of the present invention.
- the production method of the present invention includes a slurry preparation step in which a powder component and a non-volatile oily component are mixed in a volatile solvent to form a slurry, and the slurry is dried to remove the volatile solvent and obtain a powder composition.
- a process First, in the slurry adjustment step, by using the medium stirring mill 10 shown in FIG. 1, the powder component and the non-volatile oil component are mixed in a volatile solvent, and the powder component is crushed, pulverized, and dispersed. A slurry is obtained (slurry preparation step). The obtained slurry is temporarily stored in the storage tank 12 and supplied to the drying device 14 (drying process) at a predetermined flow rate.
- the drying device 14 used in the present embodiment makes the slurry fine droplets by mechanical shearing force, that is, shearing force generated by rotation of shearing members (plate-like members 34a, 34b, 34c) provided in the shearing means 18.
- the slurry is dried by blowing a dry gas to the fine droplets.
- the shape of the shearing member is not particularly limited as long as it meets the purpose, and may be any shape such as a blade shape or a disk shape in addition to the plate shape as described above.
- the powder composition is manufactured using the drying apparatus 14 that performs drying in a state where the slurry is made into fine droplets, the powder composition hardly causes aggregation of the powder components at the time of drying. You can get things. Therefore, it is possible to provide a powder cosmetic that is excellent in use feeling when applied to the skin. Moreover, since it is not necessary to crush again after drying, it is extremely excellent in productivity and work environment.
- the obtained solid powder cosmetics are excellent not only in the feeling of use but also in the usability such as how to puff.
- a medium agitating mill 10 in order to mix essential blending components in a volatile solvent.
- a medium stirring mill it is possible to obtain a slurry coated with a non-volatile oily component moderately and uniformly to the extent that the powder component surface is not affected, and by using such a slurry, It is possible to obtain a powder cosmetic that is more excellent in use feeling and usability.
- a slurry is prepared using a powder component other than the pearl pigment in the slurry preparation step, and this slurry is dried in the drying step to remove the pearl pigment.
- a powder composition containing is obtained.
- it is suitable to mix a pearl pigment and the powder composition which does not contain a pearl pigment, and to obtain a powder cosmetic using this mixed powder.
- Examples of the method of mixing the powder component and the non-volatile oil component in a volatile solvent to form a slurry include the following methods.
- a powder component and a non-volatile oil component previously dry-mixed / pulverized with a Henschel mixer (registered trademark), a pulverizer, etc. are added to a volatile solvent, and a disper mixer, a homogenizer, a planetary mixer, two A method of mixing / dispersing with a shaft kneader or the like.
- (B) A method in which a powder component and a non-volatile oil component are added to a volatile solvent, preliminarily mixed with a disper mixer or the like as necessary, and then crushed, pulverized, and dispersed by a medium stirring mill.
- (C) A specific powder component having strong cohesive properties such as polymer elastic powder or fine particle powder is added to a volatile solvent, and if necessary, this is premixed with a disper mixer or the like, and then a medium stirring mill is used.
- a method in which a dispersion is obtained by pulverizing, pulverizing and dispersing, adding the dispersion and other powder components and non-volatile oil components, and further performing a treatment using a wet mixer or a medium stirring mill.
- a medium stirring mill is a method in which a dispersion composed of a powder component (and a non-volatile oil component) and a solvent is contained in a container filled with a solid dispersion medium (medium) such as beads and the liquid in the container is agitated.
- the powder components are crushed, pulverized, and dispersed by impact force, friction force, and the like.
- FIGS. 2 and 3 are schematic configuration diagrams each showing an example of a medium agitating mill suitably used in the present invention.
- the medium stirring mill that can be suitably used in the present invention is not limited to these, and any medium stirring mill may be used as long as the object of the present invention can be achieved.
- the medium agitating mill 110 in the example shown in FIG. 2 is attached to a substantially cylindrical container 112, a drive shaft 114 inserted into the container 112, a drive motor 116 that rotationally drives the drive shaft 114, and the drive shaft.
- the inside of the container 112 is divided into a dispersion chamber 120 for crushing, crushing, and dispersing powder components, and an extraction chamber 122 for extracting the treated dispersion liquid.
- a supply port 124 for supplying the dispersion liquid to be processed is provided on the dispersion chamber 120 side of the container 112, and an extraction port 126 for taking out the treated dispersion liquid is provided on the extraction chamber 122 side.
- a partition wall 130 having an opening 128 is provided between the dispersion chamber 120 and the extraction chamber 122, and a separation disk 132 attached to the drive shaft 114 is disposed in the vicinity of the partition wall 130. 128 is disposed so as to cover 128.
- a gap is provided between the partition wall 130 and the separation disk 132, and this gap is used as a separation slit 134 for separating the solid dispersion medium and the dispersion liquid to be treated.
- a dispersion containing a powder component, a non-volatile oily component, and a volatile solvent (hereinafter simply referred to as a solvent) is sequentially supplied from the supply port 124 to the dispersion chamber 120 in the container 112, and the dispersion in the dispersion chamber 120 is Sequentially moves in the direction of the extraction chamber 122.
- the drive shaft 114 is rotationally driven by the drive motor 116, and the stirring disks 118a to 118f are rotating.
- the dispersion chamber 120 is filled with a large number of solid dispersion media 136, and the solid dispersion media 136 are stirred together with the dispersion by the rotation of the stirring disks 118a to 118f.
- the agglomerated powder component in the dispersion is pulverized, pulverized, and dispersed by the impact force or shear stress from the solid dispersion medium 136.
- the pulverized, pulverized, and dispersed dispersion liquid flows through the separation slit 134 between the partition wall 130 and the separation disk 132 between the dispersion chamber 120 and the extraction chamber 122 and flows into the extraction chamber 122. , Extracted from the extraction port 126 to the outside.
- the separation slit 134 is sized so that the solid dispersion medium 136 does not flow out of the dispersion chamber 120 into the extraction chamber 122. Therefore, when the dispersion liquid passes through the separation slit 134, the dispersion liquid (powder component + solvent) and the solid dispersion medium 136 are separated, and only the dispersion liquid enters the extraction chamber.
- FIG. 3 is a schematic configuration diagram of an annular type medium stirring mill.
- the medium agitating mill 210 shown in FIG. 3 includes a container 212 having a substantially W-shaped cross section that is symmetric with respect to the central axis A, and a substantially inverted U-shaped rotor that is provided in the container 212 and is rotatable about the central axis A. 214 and a drive motor 216 that rotationally drives the rotor 214.
- An annular space 218 is formed between the inner surface of the container 216 and the outer surface of the rotor 214, and the annular space 218 has a shape having a substantially V-shaped cross section on both sides of the central axis A.
- the container 212 is formed with a supply port 220 for sending the dispersion liquid (powder component + solvent) to be processed into the annular space 218 and an extraction port 222 for taking out the treated dispersion liquid from the annular space 218.
- the annular space 218 is filled with a solid dispersion medium 224, and the annular space 218 is used as a dispersion chamber for crushing, crushing, and dispersing the powder components in the dispersion.
- the dispersion supplied from the supply port 220 is sent to the annular space 218 through the inlet slit 226.
- the fed dispersion liquid moves in the annular space 218 and is taken out from the extraction port 222 through the outlet slit 228.
- the dispersion liquid and the solid dispersion medium 224 in the annular space 218 are agitated.
- the agglomerated powder component in the dispersion liquid is crushed, pulverized, and dispersed by the impact force and shear stress from the solid dispersion medium 224.
- the dispersion passes through the exit slit 228 and is taken out from the extraction port 222.
- the exit slit 228 has such a size that the solid dispersion medium 224 does not flow out of the annular space 218, and functions as a separation means for separating the dispersion (powder component + solvent) from the solid dispersion medium 224.
- the rotor 214 is provided with a return hole 230 for returning the solid dispersion medium 224 to the inlet side so that the solid dispersion medium 224 does not stay near the outlet.
- the reason why the powder component and the non-volatile oil component are crushed, pulverized, and dispersed in the volatile solvent using a medium stirring mill is that the mixing and dispersion state of the powder component and the non-volatile oil component can be improved. This is because the powder component surface can be coated with the non-volatile oily component moderately and uniformly to such an extent that the surface of the powder component is not affected. It is also possible to easily pulverize a highly cohesive powder and disperse it uniformly in a volatile solvent.
- Examples of the medium agitating mill include, in addition to those described above, a batch type bead mill such as a basket mill, a horizontal type / vertical type / annular type continuous type bead mill, a sand grinder mill, a ball mill, and Micros (registered trademark). ) Etc. may be mentioned as suitable, but can be used without particular limitation as long as the purpose is met.
- a batch type bead mill such as a basket mill, a horizontal type / vertical type / annular type continuous type bead mill, a sand grinder mill, a ball mill, and Micros (registered trademark).
- Etc. may be mentioned as suitable, but can be used without particular limitation as long as the purpose is met.
- the agglomeration of these powder components is released and stirred and dispersed to a state close to primary particles, and the non-volatile oily component is moderately applied to the powder surface so as not to affect the cosmetic durability.
- it can be uniformly coated it can be used
- the medium used in the medium agitating mill is preferably beads, and beads made of glass, alumina, zirconia, steel, flint stone, or the like can be used, and zirconia is particularly preferable.
- the size of the beads those having a diameter of about 0.5 to 10 mm are usually preferably used, but those having a diameter of about 2 mm to 5 mm are preferably used in the present invention. If the size of the bead diameter is too small, the disintegration of the extender pigments such as mica and talc will proceed excessively, adversely affect the feel of use, and the hardness after molding will become harder, resulting in poor removal. It becomes easy to cause caking. On the other hand, if the size of the beads is too large, aggregation of the powder component cannot be sufficiently solved, and uniform coating with the non-volatile oil component becomes difficult.
- the powder component and the non-volatile oil component to be mixed in the slurry preparation step will be described later.
- components that can be blended in the powder cosmetic other than the essential components in the slurry preparation step will be described later.
- the volatile solvent for mixing the ingredients of the powder cosmetic is not particularly limited, but purified water, cyclic silicone, ethanol, light liquid isoparaffin, lower alcohol, ethers, LPG, fluorocarbon, N-methylpyrrolidone, fluoroalcohol Volatile linear silicone, next-generation fluorocarbon, and the like.
- Representative examples of lower alcohols include ethanol and isopropanol.
- One or more of these solvents are mixed and used appropriately according to the characteristics of the ingredients used.
- the amount of the volatile solvent used in the slurry preparation step depends on the polarity, specific gravity, etc. of the volatile solvent to be used, and thus cannot be specified. However, when a medium stirring mill is used, fluidity that enables processing is ensured. This is very important.
- the drying device 14 shown in FIG. 1 is configured such that a slurry is dried by a hollow casing 16 serving as a place for drying the slurry and a rotating shearing member (plate-shaped members 34a, 34b, 34c) provided in the casing 16.
- Shearing means 18 for forming fine droplets supply means 20 for supplying slurry to the shearing members (plate-like members 34a, 34b, 34c) in the casing 16, and dry gas is blown into the casing 16 to shear the means.
- 18 is provided with a blowing means 22 for supplying a drying gas to the slurry made into fine droplets by 18 and a collecting means 24 for collecting the powder composition produced by drying the slurry.
- the casing 16 has a vertical, hollow and substantially cylindrical shape, and the upper portion thereof is provided with a discharge port 26 for discharging the powder composition and the drying gas, and the lower portion thereof is supplied with the drying gas from the blowing means 22 into the casing 16.
- An air outlet 28 is provided.
- the supply port 30 for supplying the slurry into the housing 16 is located between the discharge port 26 located at the top of the housing 16 and the blower port 28 located at the bottom.
- the shearing means 18 rotates the rotary shaft 32 provided in the vertical direction from the bottom of the casing 16, shear members (plate-like members 34 a, 34 b, 34 c) provided at right angles to the rotary shaft 32, and the rotary shaft 32.
- a drive unit 36 is provided in the vertical direction from the bottom of the casing 16, shear members (plate-like members 34 a, 34 b, 34 c) provided at right angles to the rotary shaft 32, and the rotary shaft 32.
- a drive unit 36 is provided in the vertical direction from the
- the drive unit 36 is disposed outside the housing 16 and transmits a rotational force to the shearing members (plate-like members 34a, 34b, 34c) via the rotation shaft 32.
- the shearing member shown in FIG. 1 is constituted by three plate-like members 34a, 34b, and 34c provided at right angles to the rotation shaft 32 at intervals in the vertical direction. These shear members are located below the slurry supply port 30 and above the dry gas blowing port 28.
- the supply means 20 supplies the slurry sent from the storage tank 12 into the housing 16.
- the slurry supplied into the housing 16 falls toward the plate-like members 34a, 34b, and 34c, and is made into fine droplets by the rotating plate-like members 34a, 34b, and 34c.
- the dry gas sent from the blowing means 22 is blown into the housing 16 from the blower port 28. Since the dry gas is supplied toward the tangential direction of the horizontal section of the casing 16 and the plate members 34a, 34b, and 34c are rotating, the dry gas flow blown into the casing 16 swirls. It becomes a flow. When the slurry in the form of fine droplets comes into contact with this dry gas stream, the slurry is further refined and dried to form a powder composition.
- the powder composition is blown up to the upper part of the housing 16 together with the dry gas flow, and is discharged from the discharge port 26.
- the powder composition discharged from the discharge port 26 to the outside of the housing 16 is collected by the collecting means 24.
- a classifying means 38 is provided at the portion of the discharge port 26 in the housing 16.
- the classifying means 38 is configured as an orifice provided in the discharge port 26, and prevents large particles, lumps, undried products, and the like from entering the collecting means 24. Note that the configuration of the classification means is not limited to this, and other configurations may be used.
- a mechanical shearing force is applied to the slurry by the shear members (plate-like members 34a, 34b, 34c), and the slurry is dried in the form of fine droplets to obtain a powder composition with less aggregation.
- the reason why the powder composition has less agglomeration is that it is a fine droplet, so that the amount of the powder component present in the droplet is small, so that aggregation during drying is less likely to occur, and agglomeration of the powder component that occurs during the drying process May be solved by a shearing force generated by a shearing member or a swirling flow.
- the shearing member a member constituted by a plate-like member rotating in the horizontal direction is shown, but in addition to this, a member constituted by a plate-like member rotating in the vertical direction (rotating shaft in the horizontal direction) is also provided. May be.
- the shape of the shearing member is not limited to the above-described one, and examples thereof include a blade shape (such as a rod member perpendicular to the rotation axis provided with a cutter perpendicularly), a disk shape, and the like. Further, the number of shear members and the like are not particularly limited.
- the above-mentioned drying apparatus is of a type called a flash dryer.
- a spin flash dryer manufactured by APV Nordic Anhyro a dry meister manufactured by Hosokawa Micron
- a vertical stirring dryer manufactured by Tsukishima Kikai Co., Ltd. Is mentioned.
- the drying apparatus suitably used in the present invention is not limited to this, and any system having a shearing mechanism in the system may be used, and any of a vertical type and a horizontal type may be used. Further, the temperature of the drying gas used for drying can be changed depending on the boiling point of the volatile solvent used.
- the drying efficiency increases as the temperature of the drying gas increases, it is desirable to set the temperature to a high temperature within a range that does not adversely affect the modification of the components of the powder composition due to heat.
- an inert gas such as nitrogen gas or Ar gas is sealed in the housing 16, the explosion resistance is improved, so that the work environment is improved.
- the solvent can be recovered by incorporating a solvent recovery mechanism such as a condenser.
- the method further comprises a solidification step of filling the powder composition into a container and solidifying by dry molding.
- a solidification method a conventionally known dry press molding or the like may be used.
- the powdered solid cosmetic obtained in this way has an excellent feeling of use equivalent to or better than the wet manufacturing method, and also has good usability (adhesion to puff), which is an advantage of dry molding. Yes.
- a powder cosmetic containing a pearl pigment typified by titanium mica or glass pearl when using a medium stirring mill, first use the powder component of the portion other than the pearl pigment, It is preferable to obtain a powder composition through a preparation process and a drying process.
- This powder composition and the required amount of pearl pigment are mixed in a dry mixer with low shearing force, such as a Henschel mixer or Nauter mixer, to obtain a mixed powder, and the mixed powder is filled into a container or further dry-molded.
- a powder cosmetic The powder cosmetic obtained by this method is not only excellent in use feeling, usability and long lasting makeup, but also excellent in pearl feeling.
- the pearl pigment is not particularly limited, and those commonly used in conventional cosmetics can be used. Typical examples include, for example, mica titanium, iron oxide-coated mica titanium, low-order titanium oxide-coated mica titanium, photochromic mica titanium, talc instead of mica as a substrate, glass, synthetic fluorophlogopite, silica, oxy The thing using bismuth chloride etc. is mentioned. Furthermore, examples of the coating include low-order titanium oxide, iron oxide, alumina, silica, zirconia, zinc oxide, cobalt oxide, and aluminum in addition to titanium oxide. Further, as functional pearl pigments having excellent optical properties, the pearl pigment surface is coated with resin particles (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No.
- the nature is small. Therefore, according to said manufacturing method, it can mix
- the blending amount of the pearl pigment is preferably 0 to 20% by mass with respect to the total amount of the powder cosmetic.
- the amount of the powder composition obtained by the production method of the present invention is preferably 80 to 100% by mass based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic, Preferably, it is 90 to 100% by mass, and when not containing a pearl pigment, 100% may be added.
- the non-volatile oily component as a binder and the powder component are sufficiently mixed and pulverized, and there is little aggregation during drying.
- the powdered solid cosmetic can be easily manufactured by dry press molding as it is without adding a non-volatile oily component as an additional binder.
- powdery cosmetics such as loose powder
- powder compositions having different compositions may be prepared, and the color may be adjusted by mixing them.
- the powder composition obtained by the production method of the present invention is applied to powder cosmetics such as foundations, eye shadows, teak colors, body powders, perfume powders, baby powders, pressed powders, deodorant powders, white powders, or powder solid cosmetics. It is preferably applied. In particular, in a powdered solid cosmetic, the feeling of use and the effect of improving makeup durability are exhibited.
- ⁇ Powder component> The powder which can be mix
- Specific components of the powder include extender pigments, white pigments, colored pigments, and spherical powders.
- a plurality of different powder components such as extender pigments, white pigments, and colored pigments can be blended simultaneously.
- extender pigments include, for example, talc, kaolin, sericite (sericite), muscovite, phlogopite, saucite, biotite, calcined talc, calcined sericite, calcined muscovite, calcined phlogopite, permiculite, magnesium carbonate, Calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, silica, zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (baked gypsum), calcium phosphate, fluorine apatite, Examples thereof include ceramic powder, metal soap (for example, zinc myristate, calcium palmitate, aluminum stearate, etc.), red synthetic fluorine phlogopite containing an iron atom in the crystal structure, and the like.
- metal soap for example, zinc myristate, calcium palmitate,
- red synthetic fluorophlogopite containing an iron atom in the crystal structure is known as a cosmetic raw material that can give a vivid color tone and a transparent feeling, and has a high quality use feeling (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 6-9210).
- JP-A-11-279432 are raw materials that have a large color dullness when wetted with non-volatile oily components and sebum, and are difficult to mix in large amounts in the prior art.
- color dullness can be reduced by using the manufacturing method of the present invention.
- the content is preferably 2 to 20% by mass with respect to the total amount of the powder composition after drying. If it is less than 2% by mass, there is a possibility that almost no high-quality use feeling effect of red synthetic fluorine phlogopite can be expected. On the other hand, if it exceeds 20% by mass, the color change due to sebum increases and the effect of makeup retention may decrease, which is not preferable.
- white pigments examples include boron nitride, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, photochromic titanium oxide (titanium dioxide obtained by sintering iron oxide), and reduced zinc white.
- Colored pigments include inorganic red pigments (eg iron oxide (Bengara), iron titanate etc.), inorganic brown pigments (eg ⁇ -iron oxide etc.), inorganic yellow pigments (eg yellow iron oxide, loess) Etc.), inorganic black pigments (eg black iron oxide, low-order titanium oxide etc.), inorganic purple pigments (eg mango violet, cobalt violet etc.), inorganic green pigments (eg chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, Cobalt titanate etc.), inorganic blue pigments (eg ultramarine blue, bitumen etc.), organic pigments such as barium or aluminum lake (eg red 201, red 202, red 204, red 205, red 220, Organic pigments such as Red No.
- inorganic red pigments eg iron oxide (Bengara), iron titanate etc.
- inorganic brown pigments eg ⁇ -iron oxide etc.
- inorganic yellow pigments eg yellow
- the spherical powder examples include silicone elastomer powder, silicone powder, silicone resin-coated silicone elastomer powder, polyamide resin powder (nylon powder), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polystyrene powder, and copolymer resin of styrene and acrylic acid.
- examples thereof include powder, benzoguanamine resin powder, polyurethane resin powder, and spherical silica.
- powder components that can be usually blended in cosmetics can be blended.
- the amount of the powder component used in the slurry adjustment step is 70 to 98% by mass, preferably 80 to 95% by mass, and more preferably 85 to 95% by mass with respect to the total amount of the powder composition after drying. If it is less than 70% by mass, water and oil repellency may be insufficient. On the other hand, if it exceeds 98% by mass, the moisture may be insufficient.
- the blending amount of the powder component used in the slurry adjustment process is dry from the balance of use feeling such as a makeup-holding effect and moist feeling. Most preferred is 85 to 95% by mass based on the total amount of the powder composition later.
- Non-volatile oil component contains a specific amino-modified silicone.
- the amino-modified silicone used in the present invention is an amino-modified silicone having a functional group equivalent of 1000 to 10,000 and a viscosity at 25 ° C. of 200 to 2000 mm 2 / s. If the viscosity is less than 200 mm 2 / s, it is difficult to obtain a sufficient water / oil repellent effect. If the viscosity exceeds 2000 mm 2 / s, the fluidity of the oil is low during drying, causing aggregation and non-uniformity. It is easy and may interfere with stable mass production.
- the functional group equivalent is less than 1000 or exceeds 10,000, the water / oil repellency effect may be insufficient. More preferably, amino-modified silicone having a functional group equivalent of 1000 to 3000 and a viscosity at 25 ° C. of 600 to 1300 mm 2 / s is used.
- amino-modified silicones examples include side chain diamine-type amino-modified silicones represented by the following general formula (1).
- X, R and R ′ are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m and n are positive numbers of 1 or more, and 1 ⁇ m + n ⁇ 1000
- a typical compound is known as amodimethicone (aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer), and commercially available products include KF-8002, KF-8004, KF-880, KF-867 (any Also manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.).
- the amount of amino-modified silicone used in the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 2% by mass based on the total amount of the powder composition after drying. If it is less than 0.1% by mass, a sufficient water / oil repellent effect may not be obtained. On the other hand, if it exceeds 2% by mass, the water / oil repellent effect can be obtained, but the use feeling may be deteriorated, which is not preferable.
- a lipophilic nonionic surfactant is included as a non-volatile oil-based component.
- a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 2 to 10, preferably 3 to 6, can be used.
- sorbitan fatty acid esters for example, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate, penta-2-ethylhexyl acid Diglycerol sorbitan, tetra-2-ethylhexyl diglycerol sorbitan, etc.); glycerin polyglycerin fatty acids (eg mono cottonseed oil fatty acid glycerin, monoerucic acid glycerin, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl monostearate, ⁇ , ⁇ '-oleic acid) Glycerol pyroglutamate, glyceryl monostearate, etc.); propylene glycol fatty acid esters (eg, propylene glycol monostearate); curing Castor
- the blending amount of the lipophilic nonionic surfactant is preferably 0.1 to 2% by mass with respect to the total amount of the powder composition after drying. If it is less than 0.1% by mass, the effect of improving moist use feeling may not be sufficiently obtained. On the other hand, if it exceeds 2% by mass, moistness can be obtained, but it tends to become familiar with sebum, so that the effect of holding the makeup may deteriorate, which is not preferable.
- the non-volatile oil component used in the present invention includes, in addition to the above-mentioned specific amino-modified silicone and lipophilic nonionic surfactant, liquid oil and fat, solid oil and fat, wax, hydrocarbon, higher fatty acid, higher alcohol , Ester oil, silicone oil, and other oil-soluble ultraviolet absorbers such as octocrylene and octylmethoxycinnamate are not particularly limited as long as they can be used in cosmetics. One kind or a combination of two or more kinds can be used.
- the non-volatile oily component can function as a binder for the solid powder cosmetic.
- the total amount of the non-volatile oil component is 2 to 30% by mass, preferably 5 to 20% by mass, and more preferably 5 to 15% by mass with respect to the total amount of the powder composition after drying.
- the total amount of the non-volatile oil component is 2 to 30% by mass, preferably 5 to 20% by mass, and more preferably 5 to 15% by mass with respect to the total amount of the powder composition after drying.
- moisturizers such as polyhydric alcohols, sugars, amino acids, etc.
- water-soluble Polymers thickeners, film agents, UV absorbers, sequestering agents, pH adjusters, skin nutrients, vitamins, various plant extracts, other medicinal ingredients, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, etc.
- blends suitably as needed and can manufacture by a conventional method according to the target product.
- these components are usually mixed with the above essential components in the slurry preparation step, but the fragrance and the like may be mixed with the powder composition after the drying step.
- ⁇ Evaluation method> A sensory test was performed on each evaluation item by using 10 cosmetic panelists actually using cosmetics. Evaluation results were evaluated according to the following four levels. ⁇ : 8 or more out of 10 are judged to be good ⁇ : 6 to 7 out of 10 are judged to be good ⁇ : 4 to 5 out of 10 are judged to be good ⁇ : 3 or less out of 10 are good Judgment
- the powder component and the non-volatile oil component were mixed in ethyl alcohol (50% by mass as out parts) using a disperser mixer.
- the slurry was obtained by crushing, pulverizing, and dispersing using a stirring mill (sand grinder mill, using 2 mm ⁇ zirconia beads).
- a spin flash dryer API Nordic Anhydro Co., Ltd.
- the slurry was dried by blowing dry gas while making fine droplets by mechanical shearing force to obtain a powder composition.
- the obtained powder composition was filled into an intermediate dish, and dry press molding was performed by a known method to produce a powder solid cosmetic.
- Test Example 1-7 was produced using a conventional so-called dry process.
- Test Example 1-7 the powder component and the non-volatile oil component were mixed with a Henschel mixer, then pulverized twice with a pulverizer, then filled into an inner dish, and dry press-molded by a known method. This gave a powdered solid cosmetic.
- amino-modified silicone (* 1) an aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer having a functional group equivalent of 1500 and a viscosity at 25 ° C. of 800 mm2 / s was used.
- highly polymerized amino-modified silicone (* 2) a rubber-like 20% solution in which a functional group equivalent having a functional group equivalent of 50000 or more was dissolved in dimethyl silicone was used.
- the lipophilic nonionic surfactant when blended in an amount of 0.1 to 2% by mass in addition to the specific amino-modified silicone as the oil component, the cosmetic lasting effect and the moisturizing effect are obtained. I found it excellent.
- the quality side of powder cosmetics can be improved, the manufacturing method which improved the productivity in a manufacturing process can be provided, and it was excellent in the moist feeling of use and makeup lasting (prevention of makeup collapse).
- Powder cosmetics in particular powder makeup cosmetics such as foundations, can be obtained.
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Abstract
Description
前記スラリーを乾燥して揮発性溶媒を除去する乾燥工程とを備えた、粉末組成物の製造方法であって、
前記乾燥工程において、前記スラリーを機械的なせん断力により微細液滴化し、該微細液滴に乾燥ガスを送風することで前記スラリーの乾燥を行う乾燥装置を用いることを特徴とし、
前記不揮発性油性成分が、
(a)官能基当量が1000~10,000であり、25℃における粘度が200~2000mm2/sであるアミノ変性シリコーンを、粉末組成物全量に対し0.1~2質量%、及び、
(b)親油性非イオン界面活性剤を、粉末組成物全量に対し0.1~2質量%
含むことを特徴とする粉末組成物の製造方法を提供するものである。
中空状の筐体と、
該筐体内に設けられたせん断部材によりスラリーをせん断して微小液滴化するせん断手段と、
前記筐体内の前記せん断部材へスラリーを供給する供給手段と、
前記筐体内に乾燥ガスを送風し、前記せん断手段により微小液滴とされたスラリーに乾燥ガスを供給してこれと接触させる送風手段と、
前記スラリーを乾燥することで生じた粉末組成物を捕集する捕集手段と
を備えた乾燥装置であることを特徴とする粉末組成物の製造方法を提供するものである。
図1は、本発明の製造方法で用いる装置構成の一例を示した図である。本発明の製造方法は、粉末成分と不揮発性油性成分を揮発性溶媒中で混合しスラリーとするスラリー調製工程と、前記スラリーを乾燥して、揮発性溶媒を除去し、粉末組成物を得る乾燥工程とを備える。
まず、スラリー調整工程では、図1に示した媒体攪拌ミル10を用いて、揮発性溶媒中で粉末成分と不揮発性油性成分を混合し、該粉末成分を、解砕、粉砕、分散することでスラリーを得る(スラリー調製工程)。得られたスラリーは、貯蔵タンク12に一旦貯められ、乾燥装置14(乾燥工程)へ所定の流量で供給される。
<スラリー調製工程>
粉末成分と不揮発性油性成分を揮発性溶媒中で混合してスラリーとする方法としては、次のような方法が挙げられる。
(A)粉末成分と不揮発性油性成分を、あらかじめヘンシェルミキサー(登録商標)やパルペライザー等により乾式混合/解砕したものを、揮発性溶媒中に添加し、ディスパーミキサー、ホモジナイザー、プラネタリーミキサー、二軸混練機等により混合/分散する方法。
(B)粉末成分と不揮発性油性成分を揮発性溶媒中に添加し、必要に応じてディスパーミキサー等で予備混合した後に、媒体攪拌ミルにより、解砕、粉砕、分散処理を行う方法。
(C)高分子弾性粉末や微粒子粉末等の凝集性の強い一部特定の粉末成分を揮発性溶媒中に添加し、これを必要があればディスパーミキサー等で予備混合した後、媒体攪拌ミルを用いて解砕、粉砕、分散させることで分散液を得て、該分散液とそのほかの粉末成分や不揮発性油性成分を添加し、さらに湿式混合機や媒体攪拌ミルを用いて処理を行う方法。
上記の解砕、粉砕、分散処理された分散液は、分散室120と抽出室122との間にある隔壁130と分離ディスク132との間の分離スリット134を通過して抽出室122に流入し、抽出口126から外部に抽出される。分離スリット134は、固体分散媒体136が分散室120内から抽出室122へ流出しない程度の大きさに取られている。そのため、分散液が分離スリット134を通過する際に、分散液(粉末成分+溶媒)と固体分散媒体136との分離が行われ、抽出室には分散液のみが入ることになる。
出口スリット228は固体分散媒体224が環状空間218内から流出しない程度の大きさに取られており、分散液(粉末成分+溶媒)と固体分散媒体224と分離する分離手段として機能する。また、ロータ214には固体分散媒体224を入口側へ戻すための戻し孔230が設けられており、固体分散媒体224が出口付近に留まらないようにされている。
次に、図1を参照して、本発明による実施形態の乾燥工程に用いる乾燥装置の一例について説明する。なお、本発明の製造方法で用いる乾燥装置は、図1のものに限定されず、スラリーを機械的に微細液滴化するせん断手段を備えているものであればよい。図1の乾燥装置14は、スラリーの乾燥を行う場となる中空状の筐体16と、前記筐体16内に設けられた回転するせん断部材(板状部材34a,34b,34c)によりスラリーを微小液滴化するせん断手段18と、筐体16内のせん断部材(板状部材34a,34b,34c)へスラリーを供給する供給手段20と、筐体16内に乾燥ガスを送風し、せん断手段18により微小液滴とされたスラリーに乾燥ガスを供給する送風手段22と、スラリーを乾燥することで生じた粉末組成物を捕集する捕集手段24とを備えている。
せん断手段18は筐体16底部から垂直方向に設けられた回転軸32と、該回転軸32に直角に設けられたせん断部材(板状部材34a,34b,34c)と、回転軸32を回転するための駆動部36と、を備える。駆動部36は筐体16の外に配置され、回転軸32を介してせん断部材(板状部材34a,34b,34c)に回転力を伝達する。図1で示したせん断部材は、上下方向に間隔を置いて、回転軸32に直角に設けられた3つの板状部材34a,34b,34cによって構成されている。これらのせん断部材はスラリーの供給口30の下方かつ乾燥ガスの送風口28の上方に位置している。モータ等で構成される駆動部36により回転軸32を回転させることで、板状部材34a,34b,34cが筐体16内で回転軸32を中心に水平方向に回転し、この機械的なせん断力によりスラリーを微小液滴にする。
また、筐体16内の排出口26の部分に分級手段38が設けられている。分級手段38は排出口26に設けられたオリフィスとして構成されており、大きな粒や塊、未乾燥品等が捕集手段24へと入ることを防止している。なお、分級手段の構成としてはこれに限られず、その他の構成でもかまわない。
ここではせん断部材として水平方向に回転する板状部材で構成されるものを示したが、この他に垂直方向に回転(回転軸が水平方向)に回転する板状部材で構成されるものも設けてもよい。また、せん断部材の形状としては上記のものに限られず、例えば、羽根状(回転軸に垂直な棒状部材の先端に垂直にカッターを設けたもの等)、円盤状、等が挙げられる。また、せん断部材の個数等も特に限定されない。
また、乾燥の際に用いる乾燥ガスの温度は、用いる揮発性溶媒の沸点により変化させることが可能である。また、乾燥ガスの温度が高いほど乾燥効率は高くなるため、熱による粉末組成物構成成分の変性等の悪影響が及ばない範囲で高温に設定することが望ましい。
また、筐体16内へ窒素ガス、Arガス等の不活性ガスを封入することで対防爆性に優れたものになるため、作業環境性も良くなる。また、コンデンサー等の溶媒回収機構を取り入れることで、溶剤の回収も可能である。
本発明の製造方法で得られた粉末組成物を用いて、固形状の粉末化粧料を製造する場合には、粉末組成物を容器に充填し、乾式成型により固形化する固形化工程をさらに備えることが好適である。固形化の方法としては従来公知の乾式プレス成型等を用いればよい。このようにして得られた粉末固形化粧料は湿式製法と同等あるいはそれ以上の優れた使用感触触を発揮しながら、乾式成型の利点である使用性の良さ(パフへのとれ具合)も兼ね備えている。また、射出充填により容器内にスラリーを充填する工程を含む従来の湿式成型の場合はスラリーの充填性を考慮する必要があるため、用いる原料に制限があったが、通常の乾式プレス成型を行う限りにおいては、用いる原料の制限も無いことも利点として挙げられる。
なお、雲母チタンやガラスパール等に代表されるパール顔料を添加した粉末化粧料を作成する場合には、媒体攪拌ミルを用いる場合はまずパール顔料以外の部分の粉末成分を用いて、上記のスラリー調製工程、乾燥工程を経て粉末組成物を得ることが好ましい。この粉末組成物と、必要量のパール顔料をヘンシェルミキサーやナウターミキサー等のせん断力の弱い乾式混合機にて混合して混合粉末とし、該混合粉末を容器に充填、あるいはさらに乾式成型して粉末化粧料を得る。この方法で得られた粉末化粧料は、使用感触、使用性、化粧持ちに優れるだけでなく、パール感にも優れたものとなる。
パール顔料の配合量としては、粉末化粧料全量に対し、0~20質量%が好ましい。
なお、複数の色の製品を調整する場合などにおいては、それぞれ異なる組成の粉末組成物を調整し、それらを混合して色などを調整して用いてもよい。
とりわけ、粉末固形化粧料において、使用感触や化粧持ち向上効果が発揮される。
本発明のスラリー調整工程及び乾燥工程に用いる粉末成分として配合できる粉末は、化粧料に使用可能なものであれば特に限定されない。また予め、疎水化処理された粉末を用いても良い。なお、本発明の製造方法によれば、特定のアミノ変性シリコーンを不揮発性油性成分中に含めることで、粉末に撥水・撥油効果を付与できるので、予め疎水化されていない粉末を用いた場合であっても化粧持ちに優れた粉末化粧料を得ることができる。
体質顔料としては、例えば、タルク、カオリン、絹雲母(セリサイト)、白雲母、金雲母、紅雲母、黒雲母、焼成タルク、焼成セリサイト、焼成白雲母、焼成金雲母、パーミキュライト、炭酸マグネシウム、炭酸カルシウム、ケイ酸アルミニウム、ケイ酸バリウム、ケイ酸カルシウム、ケイ酸マグネシウム、ケイ酸ストロンチウム、タングステン酸金属塩、マグネシウム、シリカ、ゼオライト、硫酸バリウム、焼成硫酸カルシウム(焼セッコウ)、リン酸カルシウム、弗素アパタイト、セラミックパウダー、金属石鹸(例えば、ミリスチン酸亜鉛、パルミチン酸カルシウム、ステアリン酸アルミニウム等)、結晶構造中に鉄原子を含有する赤色合成フッ素金雲母などが挙げられる。
スラリー調整工程に用いる粉末成分の配合量としては、乾燥後の粉末組成物全量に対して、70~98質量%、好ましくは80~95質量%、さらに好ましくは、85~95質量%である。70質量%未満だと、撥水・撥油性が不十分となる可能性がある。また、98質量%を超えると、しっとりさが不十分となる可能性がある。
とりわけ、パウダリーファンデーションなどの粉末固形化粧料に用いるための粉末組成物を製造する場合は、化粧持ち効果としっとり感などの使用感触のバランスから、スラリー調整工程に用いる粉末成分の配合量は、乾燥後の粉末組成物全量に対して85~95質量%が最も好ましい。
(a)アミノ変性シリコーン
本発明において、不揮発性油性成分中に、特定のアミノ変性シリコーンを含むことが必須である。本発明に用いるアミノ変性シリコーンは、官能基当量が1000~10,000であって、25℃における粘度が、200~2000mm2/sのアミノ変性シリコーンが用いられる。
粘度が、200mm2/s未満だと、十分な撥水・撥油効果が得られにくく、2000mm2/sを超えると、乾燥時において、油分の流動性が低いため凝集や不均一化を起こしやすく、安定的な量産に支障をきたす可能性がある。
官能基当量が、1000未満や10000を超えると、撥水・撥油効果が不十分になることがある。
より好ましくは、官能基当量が、1000~3000、25℃における粘度が、600~1300mm2/sのアミノ変性シリコーンが用いられる。
代表的な化合物としては、アモジメチコーン(アミノエチルアミノプロピルメチルシロキサン・ジメチルシロキサン共重合体)として知られており、市販品としては、KF-8002,KF-8004、KF-880、KF-867(いずれも信越化学工業社製)などが挙げられる。
本発明において、不揮発性油性成分として、親油性非イオン界面活性剤を含むことが好ましい。親油性非イオン界面活性剤としては、HLBが、2~10、好ましくは、3~6の非イオン性界面活性剤を用いることができる。例えば、ソルビタン脂肪酸エステル類(例えば、ソルビタンモノオレエート、ソルビタンモノイソステアレート、ソルビタンモノラウレート、ソルビタンモノパルミテート、ソルビタンモノステアレート、ソルビタンセスキオレエート、ソルビタントリオレエート、ペンタ-2-エチルヘキシル酸ジグリセロールソルビタン、テトラ-2-エチルヘキシル酸ジグリセロールソルビタン等);グリセリンポリグリセリン脂肪酸類(例えば、モノ綿実油脂肪酸グリセリン、モノエルカ酸グリセリン、セスキオレイン酸グリセリン、モノステアリン酸グリセリン、α,α'-オレイン酸ピログルタミン酸グリセリン、モノステアリン酸グリセリンリンゴ酸等);プロピレングリコール脂肪酸エステル類(例えば、モノステアリン酸プロピレングリコール等);硬化ヒマシ油誘導体;グリセリンアルキルエーテル等が挙げられる。好ましくはソルビタン脂肪酸エステル類、セスキイソステアリン酸ソルビタン、モノイソステアリン酸ソルビタンが使用される。
本発明の製造方法においては、本発明の効果を損なわない範囲において、上記必須成分以外に、通常、化粧料に用いる他の成分、例えば、多価アルコール、糖、アミノ酸等の保湿剤、水溶性高分子、増粘剤、皮膜剤、紫外線吸収剤、金属イオン封鎖剤、pH調整剤、皮膚栄養剤、ビタミン、各種植物抽出物や、その他の薬効成分、酸化防止剤、防腐剤、香料等を必要に応じて適宜配合し、目的とする製品に応じて常法により製造することが出来る。これらの成分は、通常、スラリー調製工程にて、上記必須成分と混合されるが、香料などは、乾燥工程後の、粉末組成物と混合してもよい場合もある。
評価専門パネル10名により、化粧料を実際に使用して、各評価項目に関して官能試験を行った。評価結果は下記の4水準で評価した。
◎:10名中8名以上が良好と判断
○:10名中6名~7名が良好と判断
△:10名中4名~5名が良好と判断
×:10名中3名以下が良好と判断
なお、試験例1-7については、従来のいわゆる乾式製法を用いて製造した。試験例1-7においては、粉末成分と、不揮発性油性成分をヘンシェルミキサーにて混合した後、パルペライザーにて2回粉砕し、その後、中皿へ充填し、公知の方法により、乾式プレス成型を行い、粉末固形化粧料を得た。
一方、従来のいわゆる乾式製法を用いた試験例1-7では、特定のアミノ変性シリコーンを配合しても化粧もち向上効果が不十分であり、使用感触も劣っていた。
また、高重合アミノ変性シリコーンを用いた場合は、化粧持ちややや向上するものの、満足な使用感触効果が得られなかった(試験例1-6)。
さらに、アミノ変性シリコーンの配合量を検討した結果、好適な配合量は、0.1~2質量%であることがわかった(試験例1-1~1-5)。
12 貯蔵タンク
14 乾燥装置
16 筐体
18 せん断手段
20 供給手段
22 送風手段
24 捕集手段
Claims (11)
- 粉末成分と不揮発性油性成分とを、揮発性溶媒中で混合してスラリーとするスラリー調製工程と、
前記スラリーを乾燥して揮発性溶媒を除去する乾燥工程とを備えた、粉末組成物の製造方法であって、
前記乾燥工程において、前記スラリーを機械的なせん断力により微細液滴化し、該微細液滴に乾燥ガスを送風することで前記スラリーの乾燥を行う乾燥装置を用いることを特徴とし、
前記不揮発性油性成分中が、
(a)官能基当量が1000~10,000であり、25℃における粘度が200~2000mm2/sであるアミノ変性シリコーンを、粉末組成物全量に対し0.1~2質量%、及び、
(b)親油性非イオン界面活性剤を、粉末組成物全量に対し0.1~2質量%
含むことを特徴とする粉末組成物の製造方法。 - 請求項1の製造方法において、前記乾燥工程にて用いる乾燥装置は、
中空状の筐体と、
該筐体内に設けられたせん断部材によりスラリーをせん断して微小液滴化するせん断手段と、
前記筐体内の前記せん断部材へスラリーを供給する供給手段と、
前記筐体内に乾燥ガスを送風し、前記せん断手段により微小液滴とされたスラリーに乾燥ガスを供給してこれと接触させる送風手段と、
前記スラリーを乾燥することで生じた粉末組成物を捕集する捕集手段と
を備えた乾燥装置であることを特徴とする粉末組成物の製造方法。 - 請求項1又は2記載の製造方法において、前記スラリー調製工程にて、媒体攪拌ミルを用いて、揮発性溶媒中で粉末成分と油性成分と前記処理粉末とを混合し、該粉末成分を解砕及び/又は粉砕及び/又は分散してスラリーを得ることを特徴とする粉末組成物の製造方法。
- 請求項1~3のいずれか1項記載の製造方法において、粉末組成物全量に対し70~98質量%の粉末成分と、粉末組成物全量に対し2~30質量%の不揮発性油性成分とを用いることを特徴とする粉末組成物の製造方法。
- 請求項1~3のいずれか1項記載の製造方法において、粉末組成物全量に対し80~95質量%の粉末成分と、粉末組成物全量に対し5~20質量%の不揮発性油性成分とを用いることを特徴とする粉末組成物の製造方法。
- 請求項1~5のいずれか1項記載の製造方法において、親油性非イオン界面活性剤が、ソルビタン脂肪酸エステルを含むことを特徴とする粉末組成物の製造方法。
- 請求項1~6のいずれか1項記載の製造方法において、粉末成分が、体質顔料、白色顔料および有色顔料を更に含むことを特徴とする粉末組成物の製造方法。
- 請求項1~7のいずれか1項記載の製造方法において、粉末成分が、結晶構造中に鉄原子を含有する赤色合成フッ素金雲母を2~20質量%更に含むことを特徴とする粉末組成物の製造方法。
- 請求項1~8のいずれか1項記載の製造方法により得られた粉末組成物を、粉末化粧料全量に対し80~100質量%含むことを特徴とする粉末化粧料。
- 請求項1~8のいずれか1項記載の製造方法で得られた前記粉末組成物及び任意に他の成分を、容器に充填し、乾式プレス成型により固形化したことを特徴とする粉末固形化粧料。
- 請求項1~8のいずれか1項記載の製造方法で得られた前記粉末組成物及び任意に他の成分を、容器に充填し、乾式プレス成型により固形化する固形化工程を備えたことを特徴とする粉末固形化粧料の製造方法。
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JP2014028786A (ja) * | 2012-07-05 | 2014-02-13 | Kose Corp | 粉体化粧料 |
WO2014132825A1 (ja) * | 2013-02-26 | 2014-09-04 | 株式会社日立産機システム | インクジェットプリンタ用インク及び印字物 |
JP2014166965A (ja) * | 2013-02-28 | 2014-09-11 | Kose Corp | 固形粉末化粧料 |
JP2014172880A (ja) * | 2013-03-11 | 2014-09-22 | Kose Corp | 固形粉末化粧料 |
JP2015532925A (ja) * | 2012-09-21 | 2015-11-16 | イーエルシー マネージメント エルエルシー | スラリー粉末化粧品組成物および方法 |
JP2016222668A (ja) * | 2016-06-02 | 2016-12-28 | 株式会社日本バリアフリー | 粉体の製造方法 |
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US9370471B2 (en) | 2012-09-21 | 2016-06-21 | Elc Management Llc | Slurry powder cosmetic compositions and methods |
WO2014094192A1 (en) | 2012-12-21 | 2014-06-26 | Estee Lauder International, Inc. | Slurry powder cosmetic compositions and methods |
JP6250003B2 (ja) * | 2014-08-08 | 2017-12-20 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 固形粉末化粧料 |
US10765611B2 (en) * | 2017-10-18 | 2020-09-08 | L'oreal | Water-based cosmetic composition comprising an effect pigment and a cosmetic active |
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