WO2005010256A1 - 織物およびその製造方法 - Google Patents
織物およびその製造方法 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2005010256A1 WO2005010256A1 PCT/JP2004/011000 JP2004011000W WO2005010256A1 WO 2005010256 A1 WO2005010256 A1 WO 2005010256A1 JP 2004011000 W JP2004011000 W JP 2004011000W WO 2005010256 A1 WO2005010256 A1 WO 2005010256A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- woven fabric
- less
- tear strength
- fabric according
- weft
- Prior art date
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Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/30—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments
- D03D15/33—Ultrafine fibres, e.g. microfibres or nanofibres
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
- Y10T442/3065—Including strand which is of specific structural definition
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a woven fabric which is thin, light, and excellent in tear strength, and more particularly to a woven fabric which suppresses blowing down at night, particularly to a woven fabric suitably used for down jackets and the like.
- polyester multifilaments, nylon multifilaments, and their composite synthetic fabrics have been widely used because of their excellent mechanical properties. These synthetic fabrics are widely used especially for coats, blousons, golf, outdoor wear, etc. due to their softness, light weight, windproofness, high water repellency, and high robustness.
- attempts have been made to increase the strength of polyamide filaments in order to obtain a fiber product that requires tear strength (see, for example, JP-A-2003-55859).
- a method for obtaining a high-strength polyamide filament is disclosed.
- such yarns have a higher strength at 10% elongation and, conversely, a lower elongation, resulting in a harder fabric texture.
- the number of yarns to be torn is reduced and the stress per one yarn tends to be concentrated, so that the tear strength is undesirably reduced.
- the woven fabric will be thicker and the texture will be harder, so it can be stored compactly in tents, paragliders, parachutes, etc. It is not suitable for applications that need to be performed.
- the weft tear strength is relatively low due to the number of drivings, and in order to increase the weft tear strength to 1 ON or more, the warp or weft per 2.54 cm is required.
- the number of driving yarns had to be set low, for example, in the case of a 33 dtex nylon filament, the sum of warp and weft had to be set to less than 280 / 2.54 cm (for example, See JP-A-11-247022.)
- plain weave fabrics have been developed. However, these materials could not obtain sufficient tear strength unless the fineness was greater than 44 dtex, and none of them satisfied the high level of lightness, low air permeability and high tear strength.
- the present invention solves the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and provides a woven fabric which is excellent in all of lightness, low air permeability and high tear strength, and can be suitably used particularly for a side jacket of a down jacket, and a method for producing the same.
- the purpose is to. Brief Description of Drawings
- FIG. 1 is an organization diagram showing an example of the weaving organization of the woven fabric of the present invention.
- FIG. 2 is an organization diagram showing another example of the woven structure of the woven fabric of the present invention. Disclosure of the invention
- the present inventors have made intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, have reached the present invention.
- the present invention has the following constitution.
- the woven fabric of the present invention preferably has a tear strength of 10 to 5 ON in the warp cutting direction and the Z or weft cutting direction by the pendulum method. If it is less than 1 ON, the tear strength of the woven fabric tends to be insufficient depending on the application, and if it exceeds 5 ON, it is necessary to increase the fineness, and the fabric is likely to be thick and hard with it. Absent. More preferably, it is 12 to 40 N, more preferably 14 to 3 ON.
- Air permeability of the fabric of the present invention is preferably 1. or less 5 cm 3 cm '2' s , and more preferably 1. 0 cm 3 Zcm s or less, more preferably 0. 80 cm 3 / cm 2 - s It is as follows. For applications such as downwear, down jackets and sleeping bags, woven fabric is used as side lining and stuffed. Therefore, the air permeability of the fabric is 1 cm 3 If it exceeds / cm 2 ⁇ s, it is not preferable because a relatively small feather or a thin fiber diameter, a small amount of crimp, bristle-type wadding and stable tend to pop out from the inside. The smaller the air permeability, the better, but it is usually 0.1 cm 3 / cm 2 ⁇ s or more.
- fabrics of basis weight of the present invention is 5 0 g Zm 2 or less, further preferably rather is 4 5 g Zm 2 or less, more preferably 4 0 g Zm 2 below.
- Basis weight of the fabric is more than 5 0 g Zm z thin cloth hardly used in applications sought. However, if the basis weight is too small, the tear strength may be insufficient, and therefore, it is preferably 10 g Zm 2 or more .
- the fibers used in the present invention are preferably polyamide multifilaments.
- Polyamide multifilament is a synthetic polymer having an amide bond and is a fiber with high strength, high toughness, abrasion resistance, and excellent dimensional stability.It is used as a material for sleeping bags, tents, paragliders, parachutes, etc. Ski / Snowboard-Suitable for sports clothing such as hardware and outdoor wear.
- the present invention mainly uses compact and soft thin fabrics, such as side garments for downwear, in order to satisfy a high level of lightness and tear strength, and from the viewpoint of cost.
- Nylon multifilaments, especially nylon 6 or nylon 66 multifilaments, are preferably used.
- the polyamide constituting the polyamide multifilament may be a copolymer or a mixture mainly composed of them.
- a hygroscopic monomer may be copolymerized.
- a core-sheath composite polyamide multifilament in which a hygroscopic resin is confined in the core may be used.
- the cross-sectional shape of the filaments constituting the woven fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, and any shape such as a round shape, a multi-square shape, a multi-leaf shape, a hollow shape, a cross shape, a flat shape, and a special irregular shape can be applied.
- the filament constituting the woven fabric of the present invention may contain a hygroscopic substance, an antioxidant, a matting agent, an ultraviolet absorber, an antibacterial agent, or the like alone or in combination.
- the fiber may be subjected to crimping such as false twisting, or may be a mixed yarn or a composite yarn with filaments having different shrinkage rates or different cross-sectional shapes.
- the fiber used in the present invention preferably has a relative viscosity of 3.2 or more. If the relative viscosity is less than 3.2, problems such as tearing of the product due to insufficient breaking strength, reduction of the bursting strength, deterioration of processing operability due to insufficient breaking elongation, and deterioration of product durability are likely to occur. In this case, even if the strength-elongation balance is adjusted, a fiber having a low relative viscosity has a large number of molecular chain ends as indicated by a low molecular weight, so that the molecular chain is disordered and the bonding force in the direction of the fiber axis is increased.
- the relative viscosity is preferably 3.3 or more and 4.5 or less, and more preferably 3.5 or more and 4.0 or less.
- the polyamide multifilament can be manufactured by a continuous spinning and drawing apparatus using a spin draw method, or by performing the spinning and drawing in two steps using a drawing apparatus.
- the spinning take-off godet roller preferably has a peripheral speed of 1500 to 4000 m / min, more preferably spins in the range of 2000 to 3000111 / min, stretches continuously, and breaks at 4.5 cN / dtex or more. It is preferable to adjust the strength and elongation at break of 45 to 55%.
- the fiber used in the present invention has a strength at 10% elongation of 1.5 to 2.5 cN / d tex. If the strength at 10% elongation is less than 1.5 cN / dt ex, it is greatly affected by the tension fluctuation during weaving, resulting in uneven dimensional stability and accompanying uneven shrinkage. As a result, the dimensional stability of the product becomes unstable and product loss increases. This is not desirable because of the problem that Further, when the density is larger than 2.5 cN / dt ex, it is not desirable because the texture of the woven fabric becomes harder particularly when weaving is performed at high density.
- the elongation of the polyamide filament is preferably 45% to 55%, and if the elongation is less than 45%, the stress may be torn when the woven fabric is torn.
- the contact area between the warp and the weft is restricted by narrowing the contact area.
- the sewn portion between the bag body and the handle belt body the sewn portion and the non-sewn portion immediately next to the sewn portion will loosely apply tearing stress for a relatively long period of time.
- the softness of the fabric is highly correlated with the pendulum method. This has a significant effect.
- the reason is not clear, when shearing stress is applied in the direction perpendicular to the fabric surface, the material is stiff when bent, and the shearing force is applied as it is in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction. It is thought that the fiber to be cut is easily bent instantaneously, and the shear stress is dispersed in the fiber axis direction and in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction.
- a more preferable range of the bending rigidity is 0.020 gf ⁇ cm 2 cm or less, and a still more preferable range is 0.015 gf ⁇ cm 2 cm or less.
- the thickness of the woven fabric of the present invention is preferably 0.07 mm or less.
- the thickness of the woven fabric exceeds 0.07 mm, the texture tends to be hard and thin fabric is required. Becomes difficult to use.
- a more preferable range is 0.068 mm or less.
- the woven fabric represented by the following formula preferably has a cover factor (CF) of 1600 to 2000.
- CF TX (DT) 1/2 + WX (DW) 1/2
- T the density of the fabric (book / 2.54 cm)
- W the weft density of the fabric (book / 2.54 cm)
- 0 indicates the thickness (decitex) of the warp and weft constituting the fabric.
- the woven fabric of the present invention preferably has a ratio of the warp density divided by the weft density of 0.9 to 1.2. Since the number of wefts that can be driven is limited, the number of warps must be reduced in order for this value to be less than 0.9. In that case, that is, if this value is less than 0.9, it is not preferable because the value of the air permeability is hardly satisfied. On the other hand, if this value exceeds 1.2, the distance between the binding points on the weft yarn becomes too short, and it is difficult to obtain a thin woven fabric with satisfactory tear strength. A more preferred range is 0.95 to 1.1.
- the yarn fineness used in the woven fabric of the present invention is preferably 30 dtex or less, and the single yarn fineness is preferably 1.2 dtex or less. If the yarn fineness exceeds 30 dtex, the woven fabric tends to be heavy, which is not preferable. It is. More preferably, the yarn fineness is 25 dtex or less, and the single yarn fineness is 1.1 dtex or less.
- the woven fabric of the present invention is mainly targeted at compact and soft thin woven fabric applications such as side garments for downwear, and the woven fabric is designed to satisfy a high level of lightness and tear strength. A flat organization with the most organizational points, or a ripstop organization that combines a flat organization with Ishigme and Nanako organizations is preferred.
- the number of stones and nanako portions may be two or more. Generally 2 The range is from five to five, and a double ripstop may be used.
- there is no detailed limitation of a ribstop structure In the case of a ribstop structure, if the size of the grid pattern is too large, the effect of improving the tear strength of the entire fabric tends to be poor, so a grid pattern of preferably 5 mm or less, more preferably a grid pattern of 1.5 mm or less.
- a ripstop structure with such a small size helps to significantly increase the tear strength, and is particularly preferred for lattice patterns of 5 mm or less, since the air permeability does not change much even if the lattice spacing is changed.
- two or more ripstop lattices are arranged in parallel, but in the present invention, a lipstop structure with one fineness greater than that of the plain weave is used to form a grid pattern. Be a kind. In this case, the single-fiber fineness can be made thicker or thinner than the plain weave yarn. A more preferred range is 0.8 mm or less.
- neither the resin processing nor the double-sided calendering is performed as the method for producing the woven fabric in the present invention.
- resin processing and / or double-sided calendering were performed.
- resin processing is applied, there are problems that the texture becomes hard, breaks easily form, and down and feathers easily come out from that part, or the resin comes off when used for a long time.
- the gloss of the woven fabric surface becomes too high, which is not preferable. If it is a one-sided power render, if it is applied to the back side, there is almost no problem with gloss when it is made into a product, so it can be used favorably.
- double-sided calendering is not preferred because the tear strength tends to decrease.
- a double-sided calendar is applied, if the conditions of the calendars on both sides are changed and the operation is substantially the same as that of the single-sided calendar, for example, if the back side is a high-temperature calendar and the front side is a low-temperature calendar, a substantially single-sided calendar Can be determined.
- the range of the glossiness of at least one surface is preferably 3.0 or less, more preferably 2.6 or less.
- the thickness of the woven fabric is randomly measured at five points using a thickness gauge, and the average value is obtained.
- the cross section is photographed using a scanning electron microscope, the distance between the outermost filaments on both sides of the woven fabric is randomly measured at five points, and the magnification is converted. And find the average.
- the measurement environment is 20 ° C and 65% RH. The unit is gf ⁇ cm 2 / cm.
- a multifilament of 22 decitex and 20 filaments having a strength at% elongation of 2.1 OcN / dtex and an elongation of 50% was obtained.
- the yarn was used for warp and weft, and the warp density was set to 183 yarns / 2.54 cm, the weft yarn density to 178 yarns, Z 2.54 cm, and weaving was performed using the rib top structure shown in FIG.
- the obtained greige is refined and dyed according to a conventional method, and then calendered (condition: cylinder temperature 120 ° C, pressure 25 kgfcm 2 , speed 20 mZ) twice on one side of the fabric to finish the warp density 1 98
- a cloth was obtained with a pitch of 2.54 cm and a weft density of 1.84 threads and a pitch of 2.54 cm.
- the obtained fabric had a weft tear strength of 18.6 N, a tear strength of 14.7 kgf, and a thickness of 0.066 mm.
- the texture is very soft, the gloss is suppressed, and the tear resistance is excellent despite the thin fabric. there were.
- Example 1 was followed except for weaving with the mini double lip structure shown in FIG.
- the texture was very soft and the tear strength was excellent despite the thin fabric.
- Example 10 was followed except that double-sided calendering was performed instead of single-sided calendering. Due to the double-sided calendering, the tear strength was low and the surface gloss was too high.
- the following resin was coated using a metal plate with a clearance of 50 microns, and then subjected to a curing treatment at 130 ° C for 1 minute.
- Panlon LN (Negami Kogyo's acrylic resin cross-linking agent) 2 parts The concentration of various solvents is adjusted so that the viscosity of the resin is 100 000 cps (B-type viscometer Rho No. 5, rotation speed 20 ppm). Was adjusted.
- the resin coating resulted in low tear strength.
- Example 1 was followed except that weaving was performed using a nylon 6 fiber of 44 dtex 34 filament shown in Table 1 and changing the weaving density. The fabric became heavy due to the use of thick yarn.
- Example 1 was followed except that the nylon 6 fibers of 33 decitex 24 filaments shown in Table 1 were used and woven with the lip structure shown in FIG. Although the tear strength was satisfactory by weaving with a lower weaving density, the air permeability was too high, making it unsuitable for dump jackets.
- Example 1 Example 1 was followed except that weaving was performed under the conditions shown in Table 1 using nylon 10 fibers having 10 decitex 7 filaments shown in Table 1. The fineness was too low and the tear strength was low. (table 1 )
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Nanotechnology (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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US10/565,836 US8220499B2 (en) | 2003-07-29 | 2004-07-26 | Fabric and production process thereof |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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JP2003-203146 | 2003-07-29 | ||
JP2003203146A JP3797486B2 (ja) | 2003-07-29 | 2003-07-29 | 織物およびその製造方法 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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WO2005010256A1 true WO2005010256A1 (ja) | 2005-02-03 |
Family
ID=34100624
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/JP2004/011000 WO2005010256A1 (ja) | 2003-07-29 | 2004-07-26 | 織物およびその製造方法 |
Country Status (3)
Country | Link |
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US (1) | US8220499B2 (ja) |
JP (1) | JP3797486B2 (ja) |
WO (1) | WO2005010256A1 (ja) |
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CN105002622A (zh) * | 2015-07-17 | 2015-10-28 | 安徽贵谷电子商务有限公司 | 一种用于纺织横向袋状双色羽绒服布料的方法 |
CN105264132A (zh) * | 2013-06-05 | 2016-01-20 | 东丽株式会社 | 聚酰胺织物及使用其的羽绒制品 |
CN105821559A (zh) * | 2016-04-25 | 2016-08-03 | 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 | 一种提花防钻绒面料及其加工方法 |
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JP3886525B2 (ja) * | 2004-03-31 | 2007-02-28 | Kbセーレン株式会社 | ポリエステル織物 |
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Cited By (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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CN105264132A (zh) * | 2013-06-05 | 2016-01-20 | 东丽株式会社 | 聚酰胺织物及使用其的羽绒制品 |
CN104480609A (zh) * | 2014-10-01 | 2015-04-01 | 大发科技集团有限公司 | 一种用于纺织横向袋状双色羽绒服布料的方法 |
CN105002622A (zh) * | 2015-07-17 | 2015-10-28 | 安徽贵谷电子商务有限公司 | 一种用于纺织横向袋状双色羽绒服布料的方法 |
CN105821559A (zh) * | 2016-04-25 | 2016-08-03 | 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 | 一种提花防钻绒面料及其加工方法 |
WO2023145557A1 (ja) * | 2022-01-28 | 2023-08-03 | 東レ株式会社 | 織物およびそれを用いた衣料 |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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US20060183390A1 (en) | 2006-08-17 |
JP3797486B2 (ja) | 2006-07-19 |
US8220499B2 (en) | 2012-07-17 |
JP2005048298A (ja) | 2005-02-24 |
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