JP6657403B2 - 縮毛を減少させるための組成物 - Google Patents
縮毛を減少させるための組成物 Download PDFInfo
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- JP6657403B2 JP6657403B2 JP2018528979A JP2018528979A JP6657403B2 JP 6657403 B2 JP6657403 B2 JP 6657403B2 JP 2018528979 A JP2018528979 A JP 2018528979A JP 2018528979 A JP2018528979 A JP 2018528979A JP 6657403 B2 JP6657403 B2 JP 6657403B2
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- shampoo composition
- hair
- acid
- shampoo
- composition
- Prior art date
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- KKXWPVVBVWBKBL-UHFFFAOYSA-N n,n-diethylethanamine;dodecyl hydrogen sulfate Chemical compound CC[NH+](CC)CC.CCCCCCCCCCCCOS([O-])(=O)=O KKXWPVVBVWBKBL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UTTVXKGNTWZECK-UHFFFAOYSA-N n,n-dimethyloctadecan-1-amine oxide Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)[O-] UTTVXKGNTWZECK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BOUCRWJEKAGKKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-[3-(diethylaminomethyl)-4-hydroxyphenyl]acetamide Chemical compound CCN(CC)CC1=CC(NC(C)=O)=CC=C1O BOUCRWJEKAGKKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920005615 natural polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
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- VWOIKFDZQQLJBJ-DTQAZKPQSA-N neticonazole Chemical compound CCCCCOC1=CC=CC=C1\C(=C/SC)N1C=NC=C1 VWOIKFDZQQLJBJ-DTQAZKPQSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920001220 nitrocellulos Polymers 0.000 description 1
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FWWQKRXKHIRPJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecyl aldehyde Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC=O FWWQKRXKHIRPJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NKBWPOSQERPBFI-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC NKBWPOSQERPBFI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229950004864 olamine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002811 oleoyl group Chemical group O=C([*])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])/C([H])=C([H])\C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 238000006384 oligomerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229960004031 omoconazole Drugs 0.000 description 1
- JMFOSJNGKJCTMJ-ZHZULCJRSA-N omoconazole Chemical compound C1=CN=CN1C(/C)=C(C=1C(=CC(Cl)=CC=1)Cl)\OCCOC1=CC=C(Cl)C=C1 JMFOSJNGKJCTMJ-ZHZULCJRSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- WVDDGKGOMKODPV-ZQBYOMGUSA-N phenyl(114C)methanol Chemical compound O[14CH2]C1=CC=CC=C1 WVDDGKGOMKODPV-ZQBYOMGUSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XYFCBTPGUUZFHI-UHFFFAOYSA-O phosphonium Chemical compound [PH4+] XYFCBTPGUUZFHI-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 1
- NAYYNDKKHOIIOD-UHFFFAOYSA-N phthalamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1C(N)=O NAYYNDKKHOIIOD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- GGOZGYRTNQBSSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyridine-2,3-diol Chemical compound OC1=CC=CN=C1O GGOZGYRTNQBSSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000011002 quantification Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 230000001105 regulatory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 235000009566 rice Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- WBHHMMIMDMUBKC-XLNAKTSKSA-N ricinelaidic acid Chemical compound CCCCCC[C@@H](O)C\C=C\CCCCCCCC(O)=O WBHHMMIMDMUBKC-XLNAKTSKSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- FEUQNCSVHBHROZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N ricinoleic acid Natural products CCCCCCC(O[Si](C)(C)C)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC FEUQNCSVHBHROZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FSYKKLYZXJSNPZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N sarcosine Chemical compound C[NH2+]CC([O-])=O FSYKKLYZXJSNPZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 235000019345 sodium thiosulphate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- SXHLENDCVBIJFO-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-[2-(2-dodecoxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethyl sulfate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCOCCOCCOCCOS([O-])(=O)=O SXHLENDCVBIJFO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- KSAVQLQVUXSOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N sodium;2-[dodecanoyl(methyl)amino]acetic acid Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N(C)CC(O)=O KSAVQLQVUXSOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FWFUWXVFYKCSQA-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-methyl-2-(prop-2-enoylamino)propane-1-sulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]S(=O)(=O)CC(C)(C)NC(=O)C=C FWFUWXVFYKCSQA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- DUXXGJTXFHUORE-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;4-tridecylbenzenesulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCC1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 DUXXGJTXFHUORE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
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- 229910052718 tin Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000003852 triazoles Chemical class 0.000 description 1
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- 229920001567 vinyl ester resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
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- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 description 1
- MQWLIFWNJWLDCI-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc;carbonate;hydrate Chemical compound O.[Zn+2].[O-]C([O-])=O MQWLIFWNJWLDCI-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
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Images
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Description
約0.1%〜約20%の水分調整材料又は水分調整材料の混合物を含み、水分調整材料は、以下のうちの1つ又は2つ以上から選択されており、
本明細書に記載される縮れを減少させる方法は、シャンプー組成物を毛髪に塗布することを含む。シャンプー組成物は、消費者が望む洗浄及び潜在的にコンディショニングを提供する。また、水分調整材料を含む場合、縮れの減少も提供することができる。シャンプー組成物は、クラスI及びクラスIIの材料からなる群から選択される、約0.1%〜約20%の水分調整材料を含んでもよい。本方法は、本明細書に記載のシャンプー組成物を毛髪に塗布した後、次いで毛髪からシャンプー組成物を濯ぎ洗いすることを含む。
縮れが起こる作用機構には、毛髪に吸収され、毛髪内で水素結合部位(ペプチド主鎖におけるものなど)を占める環境からの水分が関係しており、リシン、アルギニン及びグルタミン酸などのアミノ酸残基の酸性側鎖及び塩基性側鎖とも関連付けられる。この内部の水は、所望の構造に毛髪を保持するスタイリング中に作り出される水素結合に置き換わる。結果として、毛髪は、典型的には望ましくないうねり、揃いの損失及び縮れを引き起こす元の形状へと逆戻りする。更には、これらの水素結合部位に水が吸収されることで、毛髪繊維が膨潤してスタイルの膨張が起こり、これは縮れの別の指標である。理論に束縛されるものではないが、本発明の対象となっている材料は、毛髪内の水素結合部位で水と置き換わり、水の吸収を防止する。毛髪内部の水が減少することで、高湿度条件下における縮れの外見の減少がもたらされる。作用機構は、毛髪繊維内部の空間と関連しているため、効果に付随する、例えばべたつき感又は油状感のようなマイナスの感触がない。吸水の減少は、動的水蒸気吸収(Dynamic Vapor Sorption、DVS)法を使用して測定され、この方法は、90%の相対湿度(Relative Humidity、RH)に対する0%RHにおいて平衡化した毛髪の重量増加を測定するものである。5%を超える吸水率の減少を引き起こす材料によって処置された毛髪は、かかる材料によって処置されていない対照毛髪に対して、著しい縮れ効果が測定される。処置は、50:50の水:エタノール溶媒中、2%(重量/重量)の材料の溶液の塗布を含む。
1)以下から選択される構造を有するクラスI:
2)以下から選択される構造を有するクラスII:
a)
b)
c)C2位置に不飽和二重結合を含むアルコール(非限定的な例は、フィトールである)、
d)アルキル置換グリコール(かかるアルキル置換グリコールの構造は20個未満の炭素原子を含有する)、
e)モノアルキル若しくはジアルキル置換グリセリン又は脂肪酸を有するグリセリンのモノ−若しくはジ−エステル(かかるモノアルキル若しくはジアルキル置換グリセリン又はグリセリンエステルの構造は、総計で20個未満の炭素原子を含有する)、
f)
g)総計15〜40個の炭素原子を含有する脂肪酸エステル、
ここで、クラスIIの水分調整材料は弱酸性〜非酸性であり、更にはクラスIIの水分調整材料は、10を超えるタンパク結合、1500未満の分子体積、0.5を超えるlog P、5以上のpKa、及び4を超える水素結合を有する。
A.洗浄性界面活性剤
シャンプー組成物は、組成物にクリーニング性能をもたらす、1種又は2種以上の洗浄性界面活性剤を含む。1種又は2種以上の洗浄性界面活性剤は更に、アニオン性界面活性剤、両性界面活性剤、若しくは双性イオン性界面活性剤、又はこれらの混合物を含んでもよい。洗浄性界面活性剤の種々の例及び説明が、米国特許第6,649,155号、米国特許出願公開第2008/0317698号、及び米国特許出願公開第2008/0206355号に記述されており、参照によりそれら全体が本明細書に組み込まれる。
シャンプー組成物は、第1の水性キャリアを含む。したがって、シャンプー組成物の配合物は、(周囲条件下で)注ぐことが可能な液体の形態であってよい。したがって、そのような組成物は、通常、第1の水性キャリアを含み、これは、少なくとも20重量%、約20重量%〜約95重量%、又は約60重量%〜約85重量%の濃度で存在する。第1の水性キャリアは、水、又は水と有機溶媒との相溶性混合物を含み得るが、1つの態様では、他の構成成分の微量成分として組成物中に偶発的に組み込まれる場合を除き、最小限の又は非常に低い濃度の有機溶媒しか有さない水を含み得る。
1つの実施形態では、本明細書に記載されるシャンプー組成物は、シャンプーゲルマトリックスを含んでよい。シャンプーゲルマトリックスは、(i)シャンプーゲルマトリックスの重量を基準にして、約0.1重量%〜約20重量%、あるいは、約0.5重量%〜約14重量%、あるいは約1重量%〜約10重量%、あるいは約6重量%〜約8重量%の1種又は2種以上の脂肪族アルコールと、(ii)シャンプーゲルマトリックスの重量を基準にして、約0.1重量%〜約10重量%の1種又は2種以上のシャンプーゲルマトリックス界面活性剤と、(iii)シャンプーゲルマトリックスの重量を基準にして、約20重量%〜約95重量%、あるいは約60重量%〜約85重量%の水性キャリアと、を含む。
シリコーンコンディショニング剤
本発明の組成物は、1種又は2種以上のシリコーンコンディショニング剤を含有し得る。シリコーンの例としては、ジメチコーン、ジメチコノール、環状シリコーン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン、及び、アミノ基、四級アンモニウム塩基、脂肪族基、アルコール基、カルボン酸基、エーテル基、糖又は多糖類基、フッ素変性アルキル基、アルコキシ基、又はかかる基の組み合わせなどの様々な官能基を有する変性シリコーンが挙げられる。かかるシリコーンは、水性(又は非水性)製品キャリア中で可溶性又は不溶性であり得る。不溶性液体シリコーンの場合、シリコーンは約10nm〜約30マイクロメートルの液滴直径を有する乳化形態であり得る。他の固体又は半固体コンディショニング剤は、高融点脂肪族アルコール、酸、エステル、アミド、又は不飽和エステル、アルコール、アミドからのオリゴマーなどの組成物中に存在し得る。オリゴマーエステルは、天然起源の不飽和グリセリドエステルのオリゴマー化の結果であり得る。かかる固体又は半固体コンディショニング剤は、付加されるか、又は有機油との混合物として存在し得る。
本発明のヘアケア組成物は、非イオン性ポリマーを更に含み得る。一実施形態によれば、本発明のヘアケア組成物で使用するためのコンディショニング剤は、ポリアルキレングリコールポリマーを含み得る。例えば、約1000超の分子量を有するポリアルキレングリコールが、本明細書において有用である。以下の一般式(VIII)を有するものが有用である:
本発明の組成物のコンディショニング剤は、単独か、上記のシリコーンのような他のコンディショニング剤と組み合わせるかのいずれかで、油又はロウなどの有機コンディショニング材料も少なくとも1つ含んでよい。有機材料は、非ポリマー、オリゴマー、又はポリマーであってよい。この有機材料は、油又はロウの形態であってよく、配合物に、そのまま付加しても、予備乳化した形態で付加してもよい。有機コンディショニング材料のいくつかの非限定例としては、(i)炭化水素油、ii)ポリオレフィン、iii)脂肪族エステル、iv)フッ素化コンディショニング化合物、v)脂肪族アルコール、vi)アルキルグルコシド及びアルキルグルコシド誘導体、vii)四級アンモニウム化合物、viii)CTFA名称がPEG−200、PEG−400、PEG−600、PEG−1000、PEG−2M、PEG−7M、PEG−14M、PEG−45Mであるもの、及びこれらの混合物などの、最大約2,000,000の分子量を有するポリエチレングリコール及びポリプロピレングリコール、が挙げられる。
本発明のヘアケア組成物は、カチオン性ポリマーなどの付着助剤を更に含み得る。本明細書で有用なカチオン性ポリマーは、少なくとも約5,000、あるいは約10,000〜約10,000,000、あるいは約100,000〜約2,000,000の平均分子量を有するものである。
一実施形態では、ヘアケア組成物は、1又は2以上の更なる有益剤を更に含む。有益剤は、ふけ防止剤、抗真菌剤、かゆみ止め、抗菌剤、抗細菌剤、保湿剤、抗酸化剤、ビタミン、脂溶性ビタミン、キレート剤、香料、光沢剤、酵素、感覚剤、誘引剤、染料、色素、漂白剤、及びこれらの混合物からなる群から選択される材料を含む。
本発明の組成物は、水性キャリアを含み得る。キャリアの濃度及び種類は、他の構成成分との相溶性及び製品の他の所望の特性に従って選択される。
一実施形態では、リンスオフシャンプー組成物は、レオロジー変性剤を含む。レオロジー変性剤によって、組成物の持続性及び安定性が向上し、感触及び消費者の使用経験(例えば、液だれしない、展延性など)が改善される。任意の好適なレオロジー変性剤を使用できる。一実施形態では、頭皮ケア組成物は、約0.05%〜約10%のレオロジー変性剤、更なる実施形態では、約0.1%〜約10%のレオロジー変性剤、また更なる実施形態では、約0.5%〜約2%のレオロジー変性剤、更なる実施形態では、約0.7%〜約2%のレオロジー変性剤、及び更なる実施形態では、約1%〜約1.5%のレオロジー変性剤を含んでもよい。一実施形態では、レオロジー変性剤は、ポリアクリルアミド増粘剤であってもよい。一実施形態では、レオロジー変性剤は、高分子レオロジー変性剤であってもよい。
以下は、様々なpH値で、エタノール:水(50:50)中で1%のサリチル酸を含有するリーブオン組成物で処置した毛髪の水の減少率(%)と、対照(毛髪は、エタノール:水(50:50)の組成物で処置した)との差異データである。下表に示されるように、低pHにおいて、本発明は、高pHと比較して性能の向上を実証している。
以下は、本発明の非限定的な実施例である。これらの実施例は、単に説明のために示すものであり、本発明を限定するものと解釈すべきでなく、本発明の趣旨及び範囲から逸脱することなく多くの改変が可能であり、当業者にはこれらのことが理解されよう。
シャンプー組成物は、高湿度での毛髪内の水分吸収を防止することに加えて、消費者が望むシャンプー効果を提供する。
全ての試験は、動的水蒸気吸収測定では、約2.0グラムの重さ及び約15センチメートル(6インチ)の長さを有する未使用の白人の毛髪で、縮れ減少率では、約4.0グラムの重さ及び約15 センチメートル(6インチ)の長さを有するダメージを受けた白人の縮れ毛のヘアピースで実施する。ヘアピースは、IHIP(International Hair Importers)から市販されている。1回用量のリンスオフ組成物あたり3つのヘアスイッチを使用する。各ヘアピースは、浄化用シャンプーで予備洗浄し、乾燥させる。0.40gの量のシャンプー組成物を注射器で、予備洗浄したヘアピースに別個に塗布する。すなわち、シャンプーの用量は、毛髪1gあたり0.20gである。各塗布は、毛髪へのシャンプーの付加、30秒間のミルキング(milking)、続けて30秒間の濯ぎからなる。余分な水分をヘアピースから絞り出し、ドライヤーで乾燥する。このプロトコルを5回/サイクル繰り返す。
シャンプー組成物で処置されたヘアピースは、以下の方法論を用いて評価する。
毛髪にシャンプートリートメントを施した後、毛髪をドライヤーで乾燥し、動的水蒸気吸収(DVS)法を用いて、以下の手順に従って、相対湿度(RH)の関数として吸水−放水に関して分析する。より具体的には、ヘアピースを秤量し、0% RHで16時間保持して平衡化させる。16時間後、RHを10%まで上昇させ、このレベルで6時間維持する。次に、90% RHに至るまで、各6時間の間隔を空けた後にRHを10%ずつ上昇させる。水減少率(%)を以下の通りに算出する:
A=水分調整材料を含有する組成物で処置した毛髪によって90% RHで吸収される水の量
B=水分調整材料を含有しない対照組成物(キャリアのみ)で処置した毛髪によって90% RHで吸収される水の量
水減少率(%)=[(B−A)×100]/B
DVS測定における標準誤差は、0.05未満である。
0.1g〜0.2gの毛髪を、10.0mLの抽出溶液A、すなわち、0.1%のTFA(トリフルオロ酢酸)を含むアセトンに加えて、15分間待つ。追加の5.0mLの抽出溶液Aを毛髪を入れたバイアルに追加して、もう15分間待つ。抽出液は、最初の抽出液を入れた同じバイアルに移す。このサンプルは、表面の5−クロロサリチル酸又はサリチル酸を判定するためのものである。10.0mLの抽出溶液B、すなわち、pH 10のアンモニア緩衝液:MeOH(90:10)を加え、1晩そのままにする(少なくとも18時間)。このサンプルは、内部の5−クロロサリチル酸又はサリチル酸を判定するためのものである。
ヘアピースは、全ての毛髪繊維を先端で保持しつつ、シャンプーで処置した後に、全体的にドライヤーで乾燥し、次に、毛髪を3部分に分けてヘアピースを加熱矯正した後、204〜232℃(400〜450F)の8フラットアイロンを8回滑らせて加熱する。次に、ヘアピースを低湿度(20〜25% RH)で少なくとも1時間維持して平衡化させる。平衡化時間の後、縮れ評価のため、ヘアピースを高湿度チャンバ(85〜90% RH)に移す。毛髪を高湿度チャンバに入れた直後(t0)、平行偏光子を有するNIRカメラを使用してヘアピースの画像を撮影する。3時間後(t3h)に別の画像を撮影する。体積の2次元投影(vncviewerソフトウェアを使用)において画素を分析(ヘアピース全体を選択する)する。次に、t0(At0)及びt3h(At3h)でのヘアピースにおいて平均投影面積を決定し、以下の等式を使用して縮れを算出する。各試験を3つのヘアピースで繰り返す。以下の式を使用して、縮れ率を算出する:
縮れ率(%)=100×(At3h−At0/At0)
縮れ減少率(%)=100×(縮れ率(%)(本発明の組成物)−縮れ率(%)(対照組成物)/縮れ率(%)(対照組成物)
様々なヘアピースにおいて、DVS測定法から得られた結果、及び縮れ減少率の測定における方法論による結果は、この2つの方法に相関性があることを示している。換言すれば、図1に示されるように、水減少率の低いヘアピースは、縮れ減少率(%)も高くなることを示している。
図1が示すように、水減少率(%)と縮れ減少率(%)との間には単調な相関性がある。材料の用量が増加するにつれて、より多くの材料が毛髪に浸透する。高湿度における水減少率(%)の増加によって、縮れ減少率(%)の増加がもたらされ、すなわちより縮れが調整されるようになる。これによって、材料の浸透、毛髪タンパク質との相互作用及び高湿度における毛髪内への吸水の減少によって縮れ調整がもたらされるという本発明の技術的仮説が裏付けられる。
2.Sigma Algrichから供給される
3.Sigma Algrichから供給される
4.Crodaから供給されるCrodamol ISIS
5.Sasol(Brunsbuettel,DE)から供給されるIsofol 16
6.Green Oleoから供給されるGreenolene 6928
水分調整材料、及び、必要であれば香料を、50:50エタノール/水キャリアに加え、完全に溶解するまで攪拌することによって、リーブオントリートメント組成物を調製する。水酸化ナトリウム(50%重量/重量)を使用して、溶液のpHを4.0〜4.2の最終pHに調整する。次に、Sepigel 305を加え、均一な組成物が得られるまで、高速ミキサーを使用して、1800〜2300rpmで2〜5分間溶液を攪拌する。
実施例I〜IVの各組成物の0.20g量を、2.0gの重さの天然未使用の茶色のヘアピースに注射器で別個に(毛髪1gあたり0.10gの溶液の用量)塗布する。毛髪を空気乾燥させた後、上述のDVS法を使用して分析する。毛髪1gあたり0.50gの溶液の用量で試験を繰り返す。本試験においては、毛髪は、以下に記載されるように、DVS分析に加えて専門家の採点者によっても評価される。
(a)5−クロロサリチル酸及び2−ヘキシル−1−デカノール、
(b)5−クロロサリチル酸及びイソステアリルイソステアレート、
(c)5−クロロサリチル酸及び2−ヘキシル−1−デカノール及びイソステアリルイソステアレート、
の組み合わせが、吸水減少(縮れ効果をもたらす)だけでなく、触感効果をももたらすことを示している。これは、(a)実施例XIと実施例VIII及びIX、(b)実施例XIIと実施例VIII及びX、及び(c)実施例XIIIと実施例VIII、IX及びX、の感触の比較から示されている。
上述の手順に従って、追加のリーブオントリートメント組成物を調製し(表1及び2)、これを上述の手順(毛髪1gあたり0.10gの組成物量)を使用してヘアピースを処置するのに使用する。ヘアピースを高湿度(85%超)で2時間維持する。次に、10名の専門家に、5ポイントの尺度に基づいて(5が最高等級であり、1が最低等級である)、縮れ、さっぱりとした感触、及びべたついた感触に関する各ヘアピースの等級付けを依頼する。合格判定値は:
・縮れについては、2未満(数値の低さは縮れの少なさに対応する)であり;
・べたついた感触のなさについては、3未満(数値の低さはべたついた感触の低さに対応する)であり;
・さっぱりとした感触については、3超(数値の高さはより高いさっぱり感に対応する)である。
水分調整材料及びシリコーン油を含有するリーブオン配合物は、未処理の毛髪と比較して、乾燥した感触の向上を示している。これは、乾燥した毛髪の摩擦測定によって結論付けられる。この評価においては、天然未使用の茶色のヘアピース(4.0g)を浄化用シャンプーで洗浄した後、上述のプロトコルに従って、組成物XXIVのリーブオントリートメントで処置する。評価前に、ヘアピースを、温度と湿度が調節された部屋(22℃/50% RH)で一晩空気乾燥する。毛髪に沿った毛髪表面とウレタンパッドとの間の摩擦力(グラム)をInstron試験装置(Instron 5542(Instron,Inc(Canton,Mass.,USA))を使用して、ヘアピース1つあたり3回測定する。
リーブオン配合組成物の実施例の1つは、ゲルマトリクスを含む分野で周知のいずれかの従来法によって調整することができる。カチオン性界面活性剤と脂肪族アルコールとを一緒に混合し、約66℃〜約85℃に加熱して、油相を形成する。別個に、EDTA二ナトリウム、メチルクロロイソチアゾリノン(防腐剤)、及び水を混合し、約20℃〜約48℃に加熱して水相を形成する。高剪断下で油相を水相に混ぜ入れて、ゲルマトリクスを形成する。残りの構成成分を、撹拌しながらゲルマトリクスに加える。次に、組成物を室温に冷却する。
2.P&G Chemicalsから供給される
3.P&G Chemicalsから供給される
4.Ineos Maastricht BV(Maastricht NL)から供給される
5.BASF SE(Ludwigshafen,DE)から供給されるTrilon BD Powder
6.Dow Chemicals(Michigan US)から供給されるPOLYOX(商標)WSR N−10(モノステアリン酸グリセリン)
7.Momentive Performance Materialsから供給されるY−14945
8.API Corporationから供給される
9.Sigma Algrichから供給される
10.Sigma Algrichから供給される
11.Crodaから供給されるCrodamol ISIS
12.Sasol(Brunsbuettel,DE)から供給されるIsofol 16
本発明の一実施形態では、組成物は、グリコール、ポリグリコール、尿素、エーテル又はこれらの混合物を含み得る。これらの材料は、サリチル酸、5−クロロサリチル酸などの水分調整活性物質の浸透性を増加させ、その性能を向上させる。プロピレングリコール、ブチレングリコール及び他のグリコール類は、5−クロロサリチル酸の毛髪内部への浸透性を増加させ、活性物質が更に浸透するためのキャリアとして機能する。活性物質の浸透性が増加するにつれて、活性物質の有効性が上昇する、すなわち、以下の表5に示されるように、水減少率(%)が上昇する。表5は、2つの異なる組成物で毛髪を処置した後の、酸化によってダメージを受けた毛髪内部に浸透する5−クロロサリチル酸の量を示している。また、対照リーブオントリートメント組成物での処置に対して、処置後に見られた水減少率(%)も示している。これらの結果は、プロピレングリコールの存在下、4倍を超える5−クロロサリチル酸の浸透を示しており、DVS法によって測定される際、プロピレングリコールを使用しない場合の約4倍を超える水減少率(%)の増加が見られる。水分調整材料の浸透性を向上させる材料の別の実施例には、2−ヒドロキシエチル尿素がある。2%の2−ヒドロキシエチル尿素を含有するリーブオントリートメント組成物は、対応する2−ヒドロキシエチル尿素を含有しない組成物と比較して、毛髪内へのサリチル酸の浸透性が14%増加している(実施例XXIX及びXXXを参照)。
Claims (16)
- 縮毛を減少させるためのシャンプー組成物であって、
0.1%〜20%の水分調整材料又は水分調整材料の混合物を含み、
前記水分調整材料は、2,4−ジヒドロキシ安息香酸と組み合わせたサリチル酸を含み、
前記シャンプー組成物は、グリコール、ポリグリコール及び2−ヒドロキシエチル尿素、及びこれらの混合物からなる群から選択される材料を更に含む、シャンプー組成物。 - 前記水分調整材料の濃度又は前記水分調整材料の混合物の濃度は、0.5%〜8%である、請求項1に記載のシャンプー組成物。
- 前記水分調整材料の濃度又は前記水分調整材料の混合物の濃度は、0.5%〜5%である、請求項1に記載のシャンプー組成物。
- 前記水分調整材料は、3−ヒドロキシ安息香酸、没食子酸、3−アミノ安息香酸、4−アミノ安息香酸、2,5−ジヒドロキシ安息香酸、3,4−ジヒドロキシ安息香酸、3,5−ジヒドロキシ安息香酸、2,6−ジヒドロキシ安息香酸、5−クロロサリチル酸、トランス−フェルラ酸、p−クマリン酸、4−ヒドロキシベンゼンスルホン酸、3−クロロ−4−ヒドロキシ安息香酸、及び2,5−ジヒドロキシテレフタル酸、並びにこれらの混合物を更に含む、請求項1に記載のシャンプー組成物。
- 前記水分調整材料は、5−クロロサリチル酸を更に含む、請求項1に記載のシャンプー組成物。
- 5−クロロサリチル酸とシリコーンを更に含む、請求項1に記載のシャンプー組成物。
- 前記シャンプー組成物は、3〜5.5のpHを有する、請求項1に記載のシャンプー組成物。
- 前記シャンプー組成物は、3.5〜5.0のpHを有する、請求項1に記載のシャンプー組成物。
- 前記シャンプー組成物は、シリコーンを更に含む、請求項1に記載のシャンプー組成物。
- 前記シャンプー組成物は、コンディショニング材料、有機コンディショニング材料、溶媒、レオロジー変性剤、懸濁剤、増粘剤、毛髪用健康活性物質、ふけ防止剤、抗酸化剤、色素、研磨剤、吸収剤、生物活性物質、緩衝剤、キレート剤、不透明剤、pH調整剤、ビタミン、錯化剤、香料、増白剤、酵素、感覚剤、誘引剤、抗菌剤、染料、漂白剤及びこれらの混合物からなる群から選択される材料を更に含む、請求項1に記載のシャンプー組成物。
- 前記シャンプー組成物は、カチオン性界面活性剤を更に含む、請求項1に記載のシャンプー組成物。
- 請求項1に記載のシャンプー組成物であって、前記シャンプー組成物は、
i.前記シャンプー組成物の0.1重量%〜20重量%の1つ又は2つ以上の脂肪族アルコール、
ii.前記シャンプー組成物の0.1重量%〜10重量%のカチオン性界面活性剤、及び
前記シャンプー組成物の少なくとも20重量%の水性キャリア、
を含むゲルマトリックスを更に含む、シャンプー組成物。 - 0.2%〜10%の2−ヒドロキシエチル尿素と組み合わせた0.5%〜2%のサリチル酸を含む、請求項1に記載のシャンプー組成物。
- 前記シャンプー組成物で処置される毛髪は、水分調整材料を全く含まない対照と比較して、90%の湿度で水分吸収の減少をもたらす、請求項1に記載のシャンプー組成物。
- pHが4で、複数回のシャンプー洗浄サイクルによって毛髪内への水分調整材料の浸透が増加する、請求項1に記載のシャンプー組成物。
- 請求項1に記載のシャンプー組成物を使用して毛髪を処置する方法であって、前記シャンプー組成物で処置された毛髪が、水分調整材料を全く含まない対照と比較して、動的水蒸気吸収(DVS)法によって決定される水分吸収減少をもたらす、方法。
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