WO2023097435A1 - Composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair - Google Patents

Composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2023097435A1
WO2023097435A1 PCT/CN2021/134349 CN2021134349W WO2023097435A1 WO 2023097435 A1 WO2023097435 A1 WO 2023097435A1 CN 2021134349 W CN2021134349 W CN 2021134349W WO 2023097435 A1 WO2023097435 A1 WO 2023097435A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
polyquaternium
acid
composition
hair
composition according
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2021/134349
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Jie Deng
Qing Yang
Shichen ZHANG
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to CN202180104496.5A priority Critical patent/CN118302148A/en
Priority to PCT/CN2021/134349 priority patent/WO2023097435A1/en
Priority to FR2114544A priority patent/FR3129594A1/en
Publication of WO2023097435A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023097435A1/en

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8164—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a carboxyl radical, and containing at least one other carboxyl radical in the molecule, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. poly (methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic anhydride)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair.
  • US9018150 B1 discloses a cleansing composition containing from about 6%to about 20%of at least one nonionic surfactant; from about 3%to about 10%of at least one amphoteric surfactant; from about 2%to about 8%of at least one anionic surfactant; and from about 0.1%to about 5%of at least one cationic conditioning surfactant, cationic conditioning amine, or a combination thereof; wherein the amount of nonionic surfactant present in the final composition is greater than the amount of the amphoteric surfactant, and the ratio of the nonionic surfactant (a) to anionic surfactant (c) is at least about 1.9 as much as the anionic surfactant, based on the weight percent of each surfactant in the final composition.
  • Anionic surfactants raise the cuticle of the hair for deep cleansing, but raised, rough cuticles also lead to frizziness of the hair.
  • consumers generally find that products containing anionic surfactants can be too drying and damaging on frequent use.
  • the hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, weather, and/or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent and/or straightening.
  • the shampoo not only can clean the hair and the scalp, but also can condition the hair so that the smoothness of the hair at wet state and/or dry state can be improved.
  • compositions for cleansing and conditioning the hair which can deliver cleaning effect and good hair sensory for example improve the smoothness of the hair at wet state and/or dry state.
  • An object of the present invention is thus to develop compositions for cleansing and conditioning the hair, which can deliver cleaning effect and good hair sensory, for example improve the smoothness of the hair at wet state and/or dry state.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair.
  • the present invention provides a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising:
  • the composition according to the present invention is silicon free.
  • the present invention provides a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair, and then rinsing the hair with water after an optional period of exposure.
  • composition according to the present invention can provide cleaning effect and good conditioning effect so that the smoothness of the hair at wet state and/or dry state is improved.
  • conditioning means imparting to the hair at least one property selected from compatibility, manageability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, smoothness and softness. The state of conditioning is evaluated by comparing the hair treated with the composition to be tested in contrast with the hair treated with a commercial product.
  • silicon free means that no compound containing silicon is added on purpose and the content of the compound containing silicon in the composition is less than 0.5 wt. %, particularly less than 0.1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, there is no silicon in the composition.
  • composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprises:
  • the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
  • a species is termed as being "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
  • the anionic surfactants may be sulfate, and/or sulfonate surfactants.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 – ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or-SO 3 – ) .
  • alkylsulfonates alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, ⁇ -olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds;
  • alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;
  • the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
  • these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a combination, from:
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO 3 H or-OSO 3 - ) .
  • alkyl sulfates alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds;
  • alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;
  • the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
  • these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a combination, from:
  • alkyl ether sulfates especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the said salt may be selected from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol salts and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • the anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a combination, from:
  • C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units
  • alkali metal such as sodium or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the anionic surfactant is selected from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and a combination thereof.
  • the anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 5 wt. %to 50 wt. %, preferably from 9 wt. %to 25 wt. %, more preferably from 12 wt. %to 18 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one alpha hydroxy acid.
  • alpha-hydroxy acid is understood to mean, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha-position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group) .
  • Suitable alpha hydroxy acids includes glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid.
  • the alpha hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, and combinations thereof.
  • the alpha hydroxy acid in the composition consists of lactic acid.
  • Lactic acid or 2-hydroxypropanoic acid, provides soft peeling on excess sebum, residues and loose dead cells around follicles and makes hair roots energized and lifted.
  • lactic acid also boosts production of glycosaminoglycan (GAG) in the skin, improving the barrier function and moisturization of skin.
  • GAG glycosaminoglycan
  • the alpha hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 1.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, and more preferably from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one beta hydroxy acid.
  • beta-hydroxy acid is understood to mean, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms.
  • Suitable beta hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, propionic acid, beta-hydroybutyric acid, beta-hydroxy beata-methylbutyric acid, carnitine, derivatives thereof, and combinations thereof.
  • beta hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid and its derivative of the formula:
  • R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an aliphatic unsaturated group containing one or a number of double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably 3 to 11 carbon atoms and being able to be substituted for example by at least one substituent selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in the free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl functional group which is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula:
  • R 1 is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred salicylic acid derivatives include 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid) , 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid.
  • the beta hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, and combination thereof.
  • the beta hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.
  • Salicylic acid or 2-hydroxybenzoic acid
  • Salicylic acid penetrates deeper into the skin than alpha hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid.
  • the beta hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, and more preferably from 1 wt. %to 4 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention can remove the stubborn sebum effectively.
  • alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid especially lactic acid and salicylic acid or its derivative
  • lactic acid can breakdown the desmosomes protein and peel off the dead cells
  • salicylic acid or its derivative can good deep into the follicles loosen the stubborn sebum in it.
  • the combination of surfactant and hydroxy acids deliver a long-lasting clean effect.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cationic polymer.
  • the cationic polymers can comprise monomer units derived from amine-and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.
  • Suitable cationic polymers include, for example: copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and 1-vinyl-3-methyl-imidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (referred to as Polyquaternium-16) such as those commercially available from BASF under the LUVIQUAT tradename (e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370) ; copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to as Polyquaternium-11) such as those commercially from Gar Corporation (Wayne, N.J., USA) under the GAFQUAT tradename (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N) ; and cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymer including, for example, dimethyldiallyammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride (referred to as Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-7) .
  • cationic polymers that may be used include polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives.
  • Cationic cellulose can be available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) in their Polymer JR (trade mark) and LR (trade mark) series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide (referred to as Polyquaternium-10) .
  • Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide (referred to as Polyquaternium-24) .
  • the cationic conditioning polymers may include or be selected from cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
  • the cation polymer is selected from polyquaterniums.
  • the cationic polymer is selected from polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-40
  • the cationic polymer is polyquaternium-30.
  • the cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises at least one chelating agent.
  • the chelating agent is selected from aminocarboxylic acids and salts thereof.
  • the salts are especially alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.
  • the chelating agents may be selected in particular from the compounds having the following INCI name:
  • DTPA diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid
  • ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid EDDS
  • trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • EDDG ethylenediamine-N, N'-diglutaric acid
  • HPDDS 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N, N'-disuccinic acid
  • EDDHA ethylenediamine-N, N'-bis (ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid)
  • NTA nitrilotriacetic acid
  • MGDA methylglycine diacetic acid
  • beta-alanine-N, N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N, N'-diacetic acid and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509382) ,
  • IDSA iminodisuccinic acid
  • GLDA tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
  • EDTA ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid
  • DTPA diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid
  • S S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid
  • EDDS trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate
  • ETMP ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid
  • GLDA tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
  • the chelating agent is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.
  • the chelating agent can decrease electrostatic screening so that the cationic polymer deposition is improved.
  • the chelating agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 4 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the inventors have found that with the presence of the cationic polymer and the chelating agent, the smoothness of the hair at wet state and/or dry state is improved.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase is a continuous phase.
  • the aqueous phase of the present invention comprises water.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature of 20-25°C) , for instance polyols such as C2-C6 polyols, more particularly glycerin, hexylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, and combinations thereof.
  • polyols such as C2-C6 polyols, more particularly glycerin, hexylene glycol
  • glycol ethers especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms
  • the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 70 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 70 wt. %to 80 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may also comprise any other additional ingredient that is usually used in the field of self-cleaning products, in particular shampoos.
  • such additional ingredients include pH adjusting agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, fragrances, electrolytes and stabilizers, plant extracts, proteins, amino acids, vitamins, glycols, emollients, derivatives of the foregoing, and combinations thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of pH adjusting agents includes potassium acetate, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, sodium citrate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, and combinations thereof.
  • the pH adjusting agent is used in an amount so that the pH of the composition of the present invention is less than or equal to 6.5, preferably from 2 to 6.5, more preferably from 3.5 to 4.5.
  • the present invention provides a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • EDTA ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid
  • DTPA diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid
  • EDDS S, S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid
  • EDTMP trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate
  • GLDA tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
  • pH of the composition is from 3.5 to 4.5.
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to d) , as essential ingredients, as well as additional ingredient (s) , as explained above.
  • the method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention can have a gel-like texture.
  • a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair, and then rinsing with water after an optional period of exposure.
  • Shampoos of invention examples (IE. ) 1-3 are compositions according to the present invention.
  • Shampoo of comparative example (CE. ) 1 comprises no chelating agent selected from aminocarboxylic acids and salts thereof.
  • Shampoo of comparative example (CE. ) 2 comprises no cationic polymer.
  • Shampoo of comparative example (CE. ) 3 comprises no alpha hydroxy acid.
  • Shampoo of comparative example (CE. ) 4 comprises no alpha hydroxy acid.
  • Each shampoo was prepared as follows, taking shampoo of invention example 1 for illustration.
  • a bundle of damaged hair was selected.
  • the hair was combed and wet under running water, the tested shampoo was applied uniformly on the damaged hair from root to tail, the shampoo was gently massaged into the hair with two fingers from root to tail (without knotting) to foam the shampoo.
  • the shampoo was rinsed off under a tap water until all foam was washed off.
  • the hair was stroked by two fingers from the root during rinse, the degree of non-resistance was judged when finger was sliding through the hair.
  • the hair was stroked by two fingers from the root, and the haircare performance of the shampoo was judged according to the smoothness of the surface of the hair.
  • the hair was curled from the tail by using two fingers, and the softness of the hair were judged on the hair surface according to whether the sample is easy to curl and the force generated in the curling process.
  • the hair was either air dried naturally or blown in a 60°C oven to a completely dry condition.
  • the hair was stroked by two fingers from the root, and the hair care performance of the shampoo was judged according to the smoothness of the surface of the hair.
  • the hair was stroked by two fingers from the root, and the intensity of deposit and residue on hair was judged.
  • the hair was curled from the tail by using two fingers, and the softness of the hair were judged on the hair surface according to whether the sample is easy to curl and the force generated in the curling process.
  • a non-silicone shampoo (Loreal Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo-WATER PUMP from Loreal) was used as the benchmark in parallel with the tested shampoo in above conditioning effect evaluation.
  • a non-silicone shampoo (Loreal Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo-WATER PUMP from Loreal) was used as the benchmark in above cleansing effect evaluation.
  • the scoring standard for conditioning effect and cleansing effect of each tested shampoo is as follows.
  • the tested shampoo is slightly inferior to the benchmark
  • composition according to the present invention can provide a cleaning effect and a good conditioning effect upon application, and the smoothness of the hair at wet state and dry state is improved.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

It relates to a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising: a) at least one anionic surfactant; b) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; c) at least one cationic polymer; and d) at least one chelating agent. It also relates to a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition onto the hair, and then rinsing the hair with water after an optional period of exposure.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CLEANSING AND CONDITIONING THE HAIR TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair. The present invention also relates to a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair.
BACKGROUND ART
Greasy scalp and hair are becoming the annoying scalp issue worldwide. People usually use oil control shampoo to remove dirt and sebum on scalp.
There are many shampoos developed to cleanse the hair and the scalp.
For example, US9018150 B1 discloses a cleansing composition containing from about 6%to about 20%of at least one nonionic surfactant; from about 3%to about 10%of at least one amphoteric surfactant; from about 2%to about 8%of at least one anionic surfactant; and from about 0.1%to about 5%of at least one cationic conditioning surfactant, cationic conditioning amine, or a combination thereof; wherein the amount of nonionic surfactant present in the final composition is greater than the amount of the amphoteric surfactant, and the ratio of the nonionic surfactant (a) to anionic surfactant (c) is at least about 1.9 as much as the anionic surfactant, based on the weight percent of each surfactant in the final composition.
However, for most commercial shampoos available, consumers are not satisfied with the long-lasting clean between two hair wash. Most commercial shampoos available only contains surfactants as cleansing agents, it can only remove liquid sebum just secreted. Liquid sebum composition will be transferred by fungi and bacterial on scalp and form stubborn sebum together with dead cells. Most shampoos can hardly remove the stubborn sebum so that they are not efficient for clean greasy scalp.
Anionic surfactants raise the cuticle of the hair for deep cleansing, but raised, rough cuticles also lead to frizziness of the hair. In addition, consumers generally find that products containing anionic surfactants can be too drying and damaging on frequent use.
Meanwhile, the hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, weather, and/or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent and/or straightening.
Thus, it is desired that the shampoo not only can clean the hair and the scalp, but also can condition the hair so that the smoothness of the hair at wet state and/or dry state can be improved.
Therefore, there is a need to develop compositions for cleansing and conditioning the hair, which can deliver cleaning effect and good hair sensory for example improve the smoothness of the hair at wet state and/or dry state.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
An object of the present invention is thus to develop compositions for cleansing and conditioning the hair, which can deliver cleaning effect and good hair sensory, for example improve the smoothness of the hair at wet state and/or dry state.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair.
Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising:
a) at least one anionic surfactant;
b) at least one alpha hydroxy acid;
c) at least one cationic polymer; and
d) at least one chelating agent.
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is silicon free.
According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair, and then rinsing the hair with water after an optional period of exposure.
The inventors have found that the composition according to the present invention can provide cleaning effect and good conditioning effect so that the smoothness of the hair at wet state and/or dry state is improved.
Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "from…to…” .
As used herein, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified ones.
As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired performance obtained as required.
As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
As used herein, “conditioning” means imparting to the hair at least one property selected from compatibility, manageability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, smoothness and softness. The state of conditioning is evaluated by comparing the hair treated with the composition to be tested in contrast with the hair treated with a commercial product.
As used herein, “silicon free” means that no compound containing silicon is added on purpose and the content of the compound containing silicon in the composition is less than 0.5 wt. %, particularly less than 0.1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, there is no silicon in the composition.
According to the first aspect of the present invention, a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprises:
a) at least one anionic surfactant;
b) at least one alpha hydroxy acid;
c) at least one cationic polymer; and
d) at least one chelating agent.
Anionic surfactants
According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises at  least one anionic surfactant.
The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
In the present description, a species is termed as being "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, and/or sulfonate surfactants.
It is understood in the present description that:
- the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO 3H or -SO 3 –) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and
- the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO 3H or-SO 3 –) .
They may be selected from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds;
the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a combination, from:
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates,
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate  function (-OSO 3H or-OSO 3 -) .
They may be selected from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds;
the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a combination, from:
- C6-C24 alkyl sulfates and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates,
- alkyl ether sulfates, especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the said salt may be selected from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol salts and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Preferentially, the anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a combination, from:
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
-C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
-C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates;
in particular in the form of alkali metal such as sodium or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
Preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and a combination thereof.
Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 5 wt. %to 50 wt. %, preferably from 9 wt. %to 25 wt. %, more preferably from 12 wt. %to 18 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Alpha hydroxy acids
According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one alpha hydroxy acid.
The term “alpha-hydroxy acid” is understood to mean, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha-position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group) .
Suitable alpha hydroxy acids includes glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid.
Preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, and combinations thereof.
More preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid in the composition consists of lactic acid.
Lactic acid, or 2-hydroxypropanoic acid, provides soft peeling on excess sebum, residues and loose dead cells around follicles and makes hair roots energized and lifted. In addition, lactic acid also boosts production of glycosaminoglycan (GAG) in the skin, improving the barrier function and moisturization of skin.
Advantageously, the alpha hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 1.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, and more preferably from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Beta hydroxy acids
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one beta hydroxy acid.
The term “beta-hydroxy acid” is understood to mean, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms.
Suitable beta hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, propionic acid, beta-hydroybutyric acid, beta-hydroxy beata-methylbutyric acid, carnitine, derivatives thereof, and combinations thereof.
Preferably, the beta hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid and its derivative of the formula:
Figure PCTCN2021134349-appb-000001
wherein R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an aliphatic unsaturated group containing one or a number of double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably 3 to 11 carbon atoms and being able to be substituted for example by at least one substituent selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in the free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl functional group which is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula:
Figure PCTCN2021134349-appb-000002
wherein R 1 is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
Preferred salicylic acid derivatives include 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid) , 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid.
More preferably, the beta hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, and combination thereof.
Most preferably, the beta hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.
Salicylic acid, or 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, is provided to the chemical peel composition to provide enhanced penetration of the composition into the skin. Salicylic acid penetrates deeper into the skin than alpha hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid.
Advantageously, if presents, the beta hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, and more preferably from 1 wt. %to 4 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The inventors have found that the composition according to the present invention can remove the stubborn sebum effectively. When both alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid, especially lactic acid and salicylic acid or its derivative, lactic acid can breakdown the desmosomes protein and peel off the dead cells, while salicylic acid or its derivative can good deep into the follicles loosen the stubborn sebum in it. Thus, the combination of surfactant and hydroxy acids deliver a long-lasting clean effect.
Cationic polymer (s)
The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cationic polymer.
Preferably, the cationic polymers can comprise monomer units derived from amine-and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.
Suitable cationic polymers include, for example: copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and 1-vinyl-3-methyl-imidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (referred to as Polyquaternium-16) such as those commercially available from BASF under the LUVIQUAT tradename (e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370) ; copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to as Polyquaternium-11) such as those commercially from Gar Corporation (Wayne, N.J., USA) under the GAFQUAT tradename (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N) ; and cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymer including, for example, dimethyldiallyammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride (referred to as Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-7) .
Other cationic polymers that may be used include polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives. Cationic cellulose can be available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) in their Polymer JR (trade mark) and LR (trade mark) series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide (referred to as Polyquaternium-10) . Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide (referred to as  Polyquaternium-24) . These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200. Additionally or alternatively, the cationic conditioning polymers may include or be selected from cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
Preferably, the cation polymer is selected from polyquaterniums.
More preferably, the cationic polymer is selected from polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, and a combination thereof.
Most preferably, the cationic polymer is polyquaternium-30.
Advantageously, the cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Chelating agent
The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one chelating agent.
Preferably, the chelating agent is selected from aminocarboxylic acids and salts thereof.
The salts are especially alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.
The chelating agents may be selected in particular from the compounds having the following INCI name:
diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) ,
ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS,
ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) ,
ethylenediamine-N, N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG) ,
glycinamide-N, N'-disuccinic acid (GADS) ,
2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N, N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS) ,
ethylenediamine-N, N'-bis (ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA) ,
N, N'-bis (2-hydroxybenzyl) ethylenediamine-N, N'-diacetic acid (HBED) ,
nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) ,
methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA) ,
N-2-hydroxyethyl-N, N-diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399133) ,
iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516102) ,
beta-alanine-N, N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N, N'-diacetic acid and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509382) ,
chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509 382) ,
ethanoldiglycine acid, and
tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.
Among the chelating agents mentioned, ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA) , diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) , S, S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) , trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP) , and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) , and combinations thereof, are preferably used.
Most preferably, the chelating agent is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.
It has been found that high amount of acid brings an issue that cationic polymer cannot attach on hair fiber surface because electrostatic screening. The chelating agent can decrease electrostatic screening so that the cationic polymer deposition is improved.
Advantageously, the chelating agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 4 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The inventors have found that with the presence of the cationic polymer and the chelating agent, the smoothness of the hair at wet state and/or dry state is improved.
Aqueous phase
The composition according to the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
Preferably, the aqueous phase is a continuous phase.
The aqueous phase of the present invention comprises water.
The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature of 20-25℃) , for instance polyols such as C2-C6 polyols, more particularly glycerin, hexylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, and combinations thereof.
Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 70 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 70 wt. %to 80 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional ingredients
The composition according to the present invention may also comprise any other additional ingredient that is usually used in the field of self-cleaning products, in particular shampoos.
The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional ingredients so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
For example, such additional ingredients include pH adjusting agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, fragrances, electrolytes and stabilizers, plant extracts, proteins, amino acids, vitamins, glycols, emollients, derivatives of the foregoing, and combinations thereof.
Non-limiting examples of pH adjusting agents includes potassium acetate, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, sodium citrate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, and combinations thereof.
The pH adjusting agent is used in an amount so that the pH of the composition of the present invention is less than or equal to 6.5, preferably from 2 to 6.5, more preferably from 3.5 to 4.5.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) from 12 wt. %to 18 wt. %of at least one anionic surfactant;
b) from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %of lactic acid and from 1 wt. %to 4 wt. %of at least one beta hydroxy acid selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl  salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, and combination thereof;
c) from 0.15 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one cationic polymer selected from polyquaterniums; and
d) from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %of at least one chelating agent selected from ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA) , diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) , S, S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) , trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP) , and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) , and combinations thereof,
wherein the pH of the composition is from 3.5 to 4.5.
Preparation and use
The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to d) , as essential ingredients, as well as additional ingredient (s) , as explained above.
The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
The composition according to the present invention can have a gel-like texture.
According to the second aspect of the present invention, a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair, and then rinsing with water after an optional period of exposure.
The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and shall not be interpreted as limiting the scope.
EXAMPLES
Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.
Table 1
Figure PCTCN2021134349-appb-000003
Invention Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4
Shampoos according to invention examples (IE. ) 1-3 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-4 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of each shampoo, unless otherwise indicated) :
Table 2
Figure PCTCN2021134349-appb-000004
Shampoos of invention examples (IE. ) 1-3 are compositions according to the present invention.
Shampoo of comparative example (CE. ) 1 comprises no chelating agent selected from aminocarboxylic acids and salts thereof.
Shampoo of comparative example (CE. ) 2 comprises no cationic polymer.
Shampoo of comparative example (CE. ) 3 comprises no alpha hydroxy acid.
Shampoo of comparative example (CE. ) 4 comprises no alpha hydroxy acid.
Preparation procedure:
Each shampoo was prepared as follows, taking shampoo of invention example 1 for illustration.
1) adding polyquaternium-30 into water with stirring to form a transparent base at room temperature;
2) adding sodium laureth sulfate into the transparent base with stirring;
3) adding lactic acid, salicylic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, and sodium hydroxide to obtain the shampoo.
Evaluation:
The conditioning effect of each shampoo was evaluated as follows:
I) Treating the hair with the tested shampoo:
A bundle of damaged hair was selected. The hair was combed and wet under running water, the tested shampoo was applied uniformly on the damaged hair from root to tail, the shampoo was gently massaged into the hair with two fingers from root to tail (without knotting) to foam the shampoo. The shampoo was rinsed off under a tap water until all foam was washed off.
II) Rinse smoothness:
The hair was stroked by two fingers from the root during rinse, the degree of non-resistance was judged when finger was sliding through the hair.
III) Evaluating smoothness and softness in the wet state:
The hair was stroked by two fingers from the root, and the haircare performance of the shampoo was judged according to the smoothness of the surface of the hair.
The hair was curled from the tail by using two fingers, and the softness of the hair were judged on the hair surface according to whether the sample is easy to curl and the force generated in the curling process.
IV) Evaluating smoothness and softness in the dry state and dry hair coating:
The hair was either air dried naturally or blown in a 60℃ oven to a completely dry condition.
The hair was stroked by two fingers from the root, and the hair care performance of the shampoo was judged according to the smoothness of the surface of the hair.
The hair was stroked by two fingers from the root, and the intensity of deposit and residue on hair was judged.
The hair was curled from the tail by using two fingers, and the softness of the hair were judged on the hair surface according to whether the sample is easy to curl and the force generated in the curling process.
A non-silicone shampoo (Loreal Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo-WATER PUMP from Loreal) was used as the benchmark in parallel with the tested shampoo in above conditioning effect evaluation.
The cleansing effect of each shampoo was evaluated as follows:
6 volunteers were recruited, one half of the hair of each volunteer was washed with the shampoo to be tested, and the other half of the hair of each volunteer was washed with a benchmark.
A non-silicone shampoo (Loreal Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo-WATER PUMP from Loreal) was used as the benchmark in above cleansing effect evaluation.
The scores on cleansing effect of each tested shampoo were given by volunteers 24 hours after application and averaged.
The scores on conditioning effect and cleansing effect of each tested shampoo were given by volunteers and averaged, wherein the scores of cleansing effect were given 24 hours after application.
The scoring standard for conditioning effect and cleansing effect of each tested shampoo is as follows.
--: the tested shampoo is significantly inferior to the benchmark;
-: the tested shampoo is slightly inferior to the benchmark;
=: the tested shampoo is similar to the benchmark;
+: the tested shampoo is slightly better than the benchmark; and
++: the tested shampoo is obviously superior to the benchmark.
The results on conditioning effect and cleansing effect were summarized in Table 3.
Table 3
Properties IE. 1 IE. 2 CE. 1 CE. 2 CE. 3 IE. 3 CE. 4
Rinse smoothness + + - + + + +
Wet hair smoothness ++ + - = + + -
Wet hair softness ++ + - - = + +
Dry hair smoothness + + - = + + +
Dry hair softness + + - = + + +
Dry hair coating + + - - = = =
Long lasting clean scalp + + + + - = -
It can be seen that the composition according to the present invention can provide a cleaning effect and a good conditioning effect upon application, and the smoothness of the hair at wet state and dry state is improved.
It can be also seen that with the presence of both alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid, a good cleaning effect has been observed.

Claims (15)

  1. A composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising:
    a) at least one anionic surfactant;
    b) at least one alpha hydroxy acid;
    c) at least one cationic polymer; and
    d) at least one chelating agent.
  2. Composition according to claim 1, which is silicon free.
  3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from
    - C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;
    - C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
    - C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;
    - C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
    - C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates;
    in particular in the form of alkali metal such as sodium or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
    preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and a combination thereof.
  4. Composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 5 wt. %to 50 wt. %, preferably from 9 wt. %to 25 wt. %, more preferably from 12 wt. %to 18 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  5. Composition according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the alpha hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, and combinations thereof, preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid is lactic acid.
  6. Composition according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the alpha hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 1.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, and more preferably from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  7. Composition according to any of claims 1-6, wherein the composition further comprises at least one beta hydroxy acid, preferably the beta hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid and its derivative of the formula:
    Figure PCTCN2021134349-appb-100001
    wherein R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an aliphatic unsaturated group containing one or a number of double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably 3 to 11 carbon atoms and being able to be substituted for example by at least one substituent selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in the free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) acarboxyl functional group which is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
    R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula:
    Figure PCTCN2021134349-appb-100002
    wherein R 1 is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms,
    preferably, the beta hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, and combination thereof.
    more preferably, the beta hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.
  8. Composition according to claim 7, wherein the beta hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, and more preferably from 1 wt. %to 4 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  9. Composition according to any of claims 1-8, wherein the cation polymer is selected from polyquaterniums, preferably, the cationic polymer is selected from polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20,  polyquaternium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, and a combination thereof, more preferably, the cationic polymer is polyquaternium-30.
  10. Composition according to any of claims 1-9, wherein the cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  11. Composition according to any of claims 1-10, wherein the chelating agent is selected from aminocarboxylic acids and salts thereof, preferably selected from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, ethylenediamine-N, N'-diglutaric acid, glycinamide-N, N'-disuccinic acid, 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N, N'-disuccinic acid, ethylenediamine-N, N'-bis (ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) , N, N'-bis (2-hydroxybenzyl) ethylenediamine-N, N'-diacetic acid, nitrilotriacetic acid, methylglycine diacetic acid, N-2-hydroxyethyl-N, N-diacetic acid, glyceryl imino diacetic acid, iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid, aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid, beta-alanine-N, N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N, N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-onoacetic acid, chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid, ethanoldiglycine acid, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and combinations thereof, preferably, the chelating agent is selected from ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, S, S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid, and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and combinations thereof, more preferably, the chelating agent is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.
  12. The composition according to any one of claims 1-10, wherein the chelating agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably  from 0.05 wt. %to 4 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  13. Composition according to any of claims 1-12, wherein the pH of the composition is from 2 to 6.5, preferably from 3.5 to 4.5.
  14. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
    a) from 12 wt. %to 18 wt. %of at least one anionic surfactant;
    b) from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %of lactic acid and from 1 wt. %to 4 wt. %of at least one beta hydroxy acid selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, and combination thereof;
    c) from 0.15 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one cationic polymer selected from polyquaterniums; and
    d) from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %of at least one chelating agent selected from ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, S, S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid, and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and combinations thereof,
    wherein the pH of the composition is from 3.5 to 4.5.
  15. A process for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition according to any of claims 1-14 onto the hair, and then rinsing the hair with water after an optional period of exposure.
PCT/CN2021/134349 2021-11-30 2021-11-30 Composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair WO2023097435A1 (en)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN202180104496.5A CN118302148A (en) 2021-11-30 2021-11-30 Composition for cleaning and conditioning hair
PCT/CN2021/134349 WO2023097435A1 (en) 2021-11-30 2021-11-30 Composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair
FR2114544A FR3129594A1 (en) 2021-11-30 2021-12-27 hair cleansing and conditioning composition

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2021/134349 WO2023097435A1 (en) 2021-11-30 2021-11-30 Composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2023097435A1 true WO2023097435A1 (en) 2023-06-08

Family

ID=86540447

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/CN2021/134349 WO2023097435A1 (en) 2021-11-30 2021-11-30 Composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair

Country Status (3)

Country Link
CN (1) CN118302148A (en)
FR (1) FR3129594A1 (en)
WO (1) WO2023097435A1 (en)

Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2007031756A1 (en) * 2005-09-16 2007-03-22 Reckitt Benckiser Inc Foaming topical compositions
JP2008214263A (en) * 2007-03-05 2008-09-18 Kao Corp Hair cleansing agent
WO2013106367A2 (en) * 2012-01-09 2013-07-18 The Procter & Gamble Company Hair care compositions
EP2786742A1 (en) * 2013-04-02 2014-10-08 Evonik Industries AG Cosmetics containing rhamnolipids
WO2016100036A1 (en) * 2014-12-17 2016-06-23 The Procter & Gamble Company Method of inhibiting copper deposition on hair
WO2019134855A1 (en) * 2018-01-04 2019-07-11 L'oreal Composition comprising surfactants, cationic polymers and a plant oil
WO2021008870A1 (en) * 2019-07-17 2021-01-21 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising anionic and amphoteric surfactants, cationic polysaccharides and unsaturated fatty alcohols, and cosmetic treatment process
US20210275426A1 (en) * 2018-06-28 2021-09-09 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising anionic, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants, at least two organosilanes and associative cationic polymers, cosmetic treatment process and use

Family Cites Families (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB8726673D0 (en) 1987-11-13 1987-12-16 Procter & Gamble Hard-surface cleaning compositions
EP0399133B1 (en) 1989-05-23 1994-03-09 The Procter & Gamble Company Detergent and cleaning compositions containing chelating agents
US5362412A (en) 1991-04-17 1994-11-08 Hampshire Chemical Corp. Biodegradable bleach stabilizers for detergents
US5208369A (en) 1991-05-31 1993-05-04 The Dow Chemical Company Degradable chelants having sulfonate groups, uses and compositions thereof
ID18376A (en) * 1996-01-29 1998-04-02 Johnson & Johnson Consumer DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS
US6207694B1 (en) * 1998-07-27 2001-03-27 Howard Murad Pharmaceutical compositions and methods for managing scalp conditions
US9018150B1 (en) 2013-12-09 2015-04-28 L'oreal Cleansing composition with cationic surfactants
US10258555B2 (en) * 2015-12-04 2019-04-16 The Procter And Gamble Company Composition for hair frizz reduction
EP3677244A3 (en) * 2020-02-04 2020-11-18 Clariant International Ltd Compositions comprising multilamellar vesicles

Patent Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2007031756A1 (en) * 2005-09-16 2007-03-22 Reckitt Benckiser Inc Foaming topical compositions
JP2008214263A (en) * 2007-03-05 2008-09-18 Kao Corp Hair cleansing agent
WO2013106367A2 (en) * 2012-01-09 2013-07-18 The Procter & Gamble Company Hair care compositions
EP2786742A1 (en) * 2013-04-02 2014-10-08 Evonik Industries AG Cosmetics containing rhamnolipids
WO2016100036A1 (en) * 2014-12-17 2016-06-23 The Procter & Gamble Company Method of inhibiting copper deposition on hair
WO2019134855A1 (en) * 2018-01-04 2019-07-11 L'oreal Composition comprising surfactants, cationic polymers and a plant oil
US20210275426A1 (en) * 2018-06-28 2021-09-09 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising anionic, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants, at least two organosilanes and associative cationic polymers, cosmetic treatment process and use
WO2021008870A1 (en) * 2019-07-17 2021-01-21 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising anionic and amphoteric surfactants, cationic polysaccharides and unsaturated fatty alcohols, and cosmetic treatment process

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR3129594A1 (en) 2023-06-02
CN118302148A (en) 2024-07-05

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
EP2994102B1 (en) Process for one-step colouring and straightening hair
JP2018537540A (en) Composition comprising a combination of a specific alkoxysilane and a surfactant
JP4070711B2 (en) Aqueous pretreatment composition for acidic hair dye
EP3344344B1 (en) Composition comprising an anionic-ampholytic polymer association
JPH0578228A (en) Hair-dye composition
JP7457032B2 (en) Bis(triethoxysilylpropyl)amine in combination with polyvalent metal cations
JP6347953B2 (en) Hair cleaner composition
JP3025537B2 (en) Hair cosmetics
JP6681156B2 (en) Hair wash
WO2023097435A1 (en) Composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair
JP2782567B2 (en) Hair cosmetics
US20190008750A1 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising a cationic surfactant, a fatty alcohol, an amphoteric surfactant, a starch derivative, and a cationic conditioning polymer
JP7531795B2 (en) Hair treatment products
JPH092923A (en) Hair-dyeing agent
JP7565932B2 (en) Composition of active ingredients for the care and surface modification of human hair - Patents.com
JPH07138137A (en) Hair-dye composition
TW202114622A (en) Kit-of-parts and composition for dyeing of keratin fibers, method, and use thereof
EP4440539A1 (en) Composition for cleansing the hair
JPH05238923A (en) Hair dyeing composition
JP2699133B2 (en) Keratinized fiber dye composition
JPH06345628A (en) Acidic composition for hair
JP5864943B2 (en) Intermediate treatment agent for permanent wave
JPH0471885B2 (en)
WO2023070514A1 (en) Composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair
FR3131693A1 (en) Composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers, comprising a water-soluble silicate and a water-soluble acid

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 21965880

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

WWE Wipo information: entry into national phase

Ref document number: 202180104496.5

Country of ref document: CN

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE