WO2023097435A1

WO2023097435A1 - Composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair

Info

Publication number: WO2023097435A1
Application number: PCT/CN2021/134349
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jie Deng; Qing Yang; Shichen ZHANG
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2021-11-30
Filing date: 2021-11-30
Publication date: 2023-06-08
Also published as: FR3129594A1

Abstract

It relates to a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising: a) at least one anionic surfactant; b) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; c) at least one cationic polymer; and d) at least one chelating agent. It also relates to a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition onto the hair, and then rinsing the hair with water after an optional period of exposure.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CLEANSING AND CONDITIONING THE HAIR

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair. The present invention also relates to a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair.

BACKGROUND ART

Greasy scalp and hair are becoming the annoying scalp issue worldwide. People usually use oil control shampoo to remove dirt and sebum on scalp.

There are many shampoos developed to cleanse the hair and the scalp.

For example, US9018150 B1 discloses a cleansing composition containing from about 6%to about 20%of at least one nonionic surfactant; from about 3%to about 10%of at least one amphoteric surfactant; from about 2%to about 8%of at least one anionic surfactant; and from about 0.1%to about 5%of at least one cationic conditioning surfactant, cationic conditioning amine, or a combination thereof; wherein the amount of nonionic surfactant present in the final composition is greater than the amount of the amphoteric surfactant, and the ratio of the nonionic surfactant (a) to anionic surfactant (c) is at least about 1.9 as much as the anionic surfactant, based on the weight percent of each surfactant in the final composition.

However, for most commercial shampoos available, consumers are not satisfied with the long-lasting clean between two hair wash. Most commercial shampoos available only contains surfactants as cleansing agents, it can only remove liquid sebum just secreted. Liquid sebum composition will be transferred by fungi and bacterial on scalp and form stubborn sebum together with dead cells. Most shampoos can hardly remove the stubborn sebum so that they are not efficient for clean greasy scalp.

Anionic surfactants raise the cuticle of the hair for deep cleansing, but raised, rough cuticles also lead to frizziness of the hair. In addition, consumers generally find that products containing anionic surfactants can be too drying and damaging on frequent use.

Meanwhile, the hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, weather, and/or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent and/or straightening.

Thus, it is desired that the shampoo not only can clean the hair and the scalp, but also can condition the hair so that the smoothness of the hair at wet state and/or dry state can be improved.

Therefore, there is a need to develop compositions for cleansing and conditioning the hair, which can deliver cleaning effect and good hair sensory for example improve the smoothness of the hair at wet state and/or dry state.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

An object of the present invention is thus to develop compositions for cleansing and conditioning the hair, which can deliver cleaning effect and good hair sensory, for example improve the smoothness of the hair at wet state and/or dry state.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising:

a) at least one anionic surfactant;

b) at least one alpha hydroxy acid;

c) at least one cationic polymer; and

d) at least one chelating agent.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is silicon free.

According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair, and then rinsing the hair with water after an optional period of exposure.

The inventors have found that the composition according to the present invention can provide cleaning effect and good conditioning effect so that the smoothness of the hair at wet state and/or dry state is improved.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "from…to…” .

As used herein, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified ones.

As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired performance obtained as required.

As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

As used herein, “conditioning” means imparting to the hair at least one property selected from compatibility, manageability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, smoothness and softness. The state of conditioning is evaluated by comparing the hair treated with the composition to be tested in contrast with the hair treated with a commercial product.

As used herein, “silicon free” means that no compound containing silicon is added on purpose and the content of the compound containing silicon in the composition is less than 0.5 wt. %, particularly less than 0.1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, there is no silicon in the composition.

According to the first aspect of the present invention, a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprises:

a) at least one anionic surfactant;

b) at least one alpha hydroxy acid;

c) at least one cationic polymer; and

d) at least one chelating agent.

Anionic surfactants

According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant.

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

In the present description, a species is termed as being "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, and/or sulfonate surfactants.

It is understood in the present description that:

- the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃H or -SO ₃ ^–) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and

- the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.

The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃H or-SO ₃ ^–) .

They may be selected from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a combination, from:

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

- C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates,

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO ₃H or-OSO ₃ ^-) .

They may be selected from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds;

Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a combination, from:

- C6-C24 alkyl sulfates and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates,

- alkyl ether sulfates, especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the said salt may be selected from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol salts and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Preferentially, the anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a combination, from:

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

-C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

-C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates;

in particular in the form of alkali metal such as sodium or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and a combination thereof.

Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 5 wt. %to 50 wt. %, preferably from 9 wt. %to 25 wt. %, more preferably from 12 wt. %to 18 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alpha hydroxy acids

According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one alpha hydroxy acid.

The term “alpha-hydroxy acid” is understood to mean, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha-position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group) .

Suitable alpha hydroxy acids includes glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid.

Preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, and combinations thereof.

More preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid in the composition consists of lactic acid.

Lactic acid, or 2-hydroxypropanoic acid, provides soft peeling on excess sebum, residues and loose dead cells around follicles and makes hair roots energized and lifted. In addition, lactic acid also boosts production of glycosaminoglycan (GAG) in the skin, improving the barrier function and moisturization of skin.

Advantageously, the alpha hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 1.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, and more preferably from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Beta hydroxy acids

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one beta hydroxy acid.

The term “beta-hydroxy acid” is understood to mean, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms.

Suitable beta hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, propionic acid, beta-hydroybutyric acid, beta-hydroxy beata-methylbutyric acid, carnitine, derivatives thereof, and combinations thereof.

Preferably, the beta hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid and its derivative of the formula:

wherein R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an aliphatic unsaturated group containing one or a number of double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably 3 to 11 carbon atoms and being able to be substituted for example by at least one substituent selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in the free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl functional group which is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula:

wherein R ₁ is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferred salicylic acid derivatives include 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid) , 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid.

More preferably, the beta hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, and combination thereof.

Most preferably, the beta hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.

Salicylic acid, or 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, is provided to the chemical peel composition to provide enhanced penetration of the composition into the skin. Salicylic acid penetrates deeper into the skin than alpha hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid.

Advantageously, if presents, the beta hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, and more preferably from 1 wt. %to 4 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The inventors have found that the composition according to the present invention can remove the stubborn sebum effectively. When both alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid, especially lactic acid and salicylic acid or its derivative, lactic acid can breakdown the desmosomes protein and peel off the dead cells, while salicylic acid or its derivative can good deep into the follicles loosen the stubborn sebum in it. Thus, the combination of surfactant and hydroxy acids deliver a long-lasting clean effect.

Cationic polymer (s)

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cationic polymer.

Preferably, the cationic polymers can comprise monomer units derived from amine-and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.

Suitable cationic polymers include, for example: copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and 1-vinyl-3-methyl-imidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (referred to as Polyquaternium-16) such as those commercially available from BASF under the LUVIQUAT tradename (e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370) ; copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to as Polyquaternium-11) such as those commercially from Gar Corporation (Wayne, N.J., USA) under the GAFQUAT tradename (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N) ; and cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymer including, for example, dimethyldiallyammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride (referred to as Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-7) .

Other cationic polymers that may be used include polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives. Cationic cellulose can be available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) in their Polymer JR (trade mark) and LR (trade mark) series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide (referred to as Polyquaternium-10) . Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide (referred to as Polyquaternium-24) . These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200. Additionally or alternatively, the cationic conditioning polymers may include or be selected from cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

Preferably, the cation polymer is selected from polyquaterniums.

More preferably, the cationic polymer is selected from polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, and a combination thereof.

Most preferably, the cationic polymer is polyquaternium-30.

Advantageously, the cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Chelating agent

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one chelating agent.

Preferably, the chelating agent is selected from aminocarboxylic acids and salts thereof.

The salts are especially alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.

The chelating agents may be selected in particular from the compounds having the following INCI name:

diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) ,

ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS,

ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) ,

ethylenediamine-N, N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG) ,

glycinamide-N, N'-disuccinic acid (GADS) ,

2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N, N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS) ,

ethylenediamine-N, N'-bis (ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA) ,

N, N'-bis (2-hydroxybenzyl) ethylenediamine-N, N'-diacetic acid (HBED) ,

nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) ,

methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA) ,

N-2-hydroxyethyl-N, N-diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399133) ,

iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516102) ,

beta-alanine-N, N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N, N'-diacetic acid and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509382) ,

chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509 382) ,

ethanoldiglycine acid, and

tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.

Among the chelating agents mentioned, ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA) , diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) , S, S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) , trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP) , and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) , and combinations thereof, are preferably used.

Most preferably, the chelating agent is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

It has been found that high amount of acid brings an issue that cationic polymer cannot attach on hair fiber surface because electrostatic screening. The chelating agent can decrease electrostatic screening so that the cationic polymer deposition is improved.

Advantageously, the chelating agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 4 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The inventors have found that with the presence of the cationic polymer and the chelating agent, the smoothness of the hair at wet state and/or dry state is improved.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.

Preferably, the aqueous phase is a continuous phase.

The aqueous phase of the present invention comprises water.

The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature of 20-25℃) , for instance polyols such as C2-C6 polyols, more particularly glycerin, hexylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, and combinations thereof.

Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 70 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 70 wt. %to 80 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional ingredients

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise any other additional ingredient that is usually used in the field of self-cleaning products, in particular shampoos.

The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional ingredients so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

For example, such additional ingredients include pH adjusting agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, fragrances, electrolytes and stabilizers, plant extracts, proteins, amino acids, vitamins, glycols, emollients, derivatives of the foregoing, and combinations thereof.

Non-limiting examples of pH adjusting agents includes potassium acetate, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, sodium citrate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, and combinations thereof.

The pH adjusting agent is used in an amount so that the pH of the composition of the present invention is less than or equal to 6.5, preferably from 2 to 6.5, more preferably from 3.5 to 4.5.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 12 wt. %to 18 wt. %of at least one anionic surfactant;

b) from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %of lactic acid and from 1 wt. %to 4 wt. %of at least one beta hydroxy acid selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, and combination thereof;

c) from 0.15 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one cationic polymer selected from polyquaterniums; and

d) from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %of at least one chelating agent selected from ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA) , diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) , S, S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) , trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP) , and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) , and combinations thereof,

wherein the pH of the composition is from 3.5 to 4.5.

Preparation and use

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to d) , as essential ingredients, as well as additional ingredient (s) , as explained above.

The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

The composition according to the present invention can have a gel-like texture.

According to the second aspect of the present invention, a process for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair, and then rinsing with water after an optional period of exposure.

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and shall not be interpreted as limiting the scope.

EXAMPLES

Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.

Table 1

Invention Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4

Shampoos according to invention examples (IE. ) 1-3 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-4 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of each shampoo, unless otherwise indicated) :

Table 2

Shampoos of invention examples (IE. ) 1-3 are compositions according to the present invention.

Shampoo of comparative example (CE. ) 1 comprises no chelating agent selected from aminocarboxylic acids and salts thereof.

Shampoo of comparative example (CE. ) 2 comprises no cationic polymer.

Shampoo of comparative example (CE. ) 3 comprises no alpha hydroxy acid.

Shampoo of comparative example (CE. ) 4 comprises no alpha hydroxy acid.

Preparation procedure:

Each shampoo was prepared as follows, taking shampoo of invention example 1 for illustration.

1) adding polyquaternium-30 into water with stirring to form a transparent base at room temperature;

2) adding sodium laureth sulfate into the transparent base with stirring;

3) adding lactic acid, salicylic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, and sodium hydroxide to obtain the shampoo.

Evaluation:

The conditioning effect of each shampoo was evaluated as follows:

I) Treating the hair with the tested shampoo:

A bundle of damaged hair was selected. The hair was combed and wet under running water, the tested shampoo was applied uniformly on the damaged hair from root to tail, the shampoo was gently massaged into the hair with two fingers from root to tail (without knotting) to foam the shampoo. The shampoo was rinsed off under a tap water until all foam was washed off.

II) Rinse smoothness:

The hair was stroked by two fingers from the root during rinse, the degree of non-resistance was judged when finger was sliding through the hair.

III) Evaluating smoothness and softness in the wet state:

The hair was stroked by two fingers from the root, and the haircare performance of the shampoo was judged according to the smoothness of the surface of the hair.

The hair was curled from the tail by using two fingers, and the softness of the hair were judged on the hair surface according to whether the sample is easy to curl and the force generated in the curling process.

IV) Evaluating smoothness and softness in the dry state and dry hair coating:

The hair was either air dried naturally or blown in a 60℃ oven to a completely dry condition.

The hair was stroked by two fingers from the root, and the hair care performance of the shampoo was judged according to the smoothness of the surface of the hair.

The hair was stroked by two fingers from the root, and the intensity of deposit and residue on hair was judged.

A non-silicone shampoo (Loreal Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo-WATER PUMP from Loreal) was used as the benchmark in parallel with the tested shampoo in above conditioning effect evaluation.

The cleansing effect of each shampoo was evaluated as follows:

6 volunteers were recruited, one half of the hair of each volunteer was washed with the shampoo to be tested, and the other half of the hair of each volunteer was washed with a benchmark.

A non-silicone shampoo (Loreal Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo-WATER PUMP from Loreal) was used as the benchmark in above cleansing effect evaluation.

The scores on cleansing effect of each tested shampoo were given by volunteers 24 hours after application and averaged.

The scores on conditioning effect and cleansing effect of each tested shampoo were given by volunteers and averaged, wherein the scores of cleansing effect were given 24 hours after application.

The scoring standard for conditioning effect and cleansing effect of each tested shampoo is as follows.

--: the tested shampoo is significantly inferior to the benchmark;

-: the tested shampoo is slightly inferior to the benchmark;

=: the tested shampoo is similar to the benchmark;

+: the tested shampoo is slightly better than the benchmark; and

++: the tested shampoo is obviously superior to the benchmark.

The results on conditioning effect and cleansing effect were summarized in Table 3.

Table 3

Properties	IE. 1	IE. 2	CE. 1	CE. 2	CE. 3	IE. 3	CE. 4
Rinse smoothness	+	+	-	+	+	+	+
Wet hair smoothness	++	+	-	=	+	+	-
Wet hair softness	++	+	-	-	=	+	+
Dry hair smoothness	+	+	-	=	+	+	+
Dry hair softness	+	+	-	=	+	+	+
Dry hair coating	+	+	-	-	=	=	=
Long lasting clean scalp	+	+	+	+	-	=	-

It can be seen that the composition according to the present invention can provide a cleaning effect and a good conditioning effect upon application, and the smoothness of the hair at wet state and dry state is improved.

It can be also seen that with the presence of both alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid, a good cleaning effect has been observed.

Claims

A composition for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising:

a) at least one anionic surfactant;

b) at least one alpha hydroxy acid;

c) at least one cationic polymer; and

d) at least one chelating agent.
Composition according to claim 1, which is silicon free.
Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

- C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates;

in particular in the form of alkali metal such as sodium or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and a combination thereof.
Composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 5 wt. %to 50 wt. %, preferably from 9 wt. %to 25 wt. %, more preferably from 12 wt. %to 18 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the alpha hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, and combinations thereof, preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid is lactic acid.
Composition according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the alpha hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 1.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, and more preferably from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-6, wherein the composition further comprises at least one beta hydroxy acid, preferably the beta hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid and its derivative of the formula:

wherein R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an aliphatic unsaturated group containing one or a number of double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably 3 to 11 carbon atoms and being able to be substituted for example by at least one substituent selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in the free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) acarboxyl functional group which is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula:

wherein R ₁ is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms,

preferably, the beta hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, and combination thereof.

more preferably, the beta hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.
Composition according to claim 7, wherein the beta hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, and more preferably from 1 wt. %to 4 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-8, wherein the cation polymer is selected from polyquaterniums, preferably, the cationic polymer is selected from polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, and a combination thereof, more preferably, the cationic polymer is polyquaternium-30.
Composition according to any of claims 1-9, wherein the cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-10, wherein the chelating agent is selected from aminocarboxylic acids and salts thereof, preferably selected from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, ethylenediamine-N, N'-diglutaric acid, glycinamide-N, N'-disuccinic acid, 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N, N'-disuccinic acid, ethylenediamine-N, N'-bis (ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) , N, N'-bis (2-hydroxybenzyl) ethylenediamine-N, N'-diacetic acid, nitrilotriacetic acid, methylglycine diacetic acid, N-2-hydroxyethyl-N, N-diacetic acid, glyceryl imino diacetic acid, iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid, aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid, beta-alanine-N, N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N, N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-onoacetic acid, chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid, ethanoldiglycine acid, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and combinations thereof, preferably, the chelating agent is selected from ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, S, S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid, and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and combinations thereof, more preferably, the chelating agent is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.
The composition according to any one of claims 1-10, wherein the chelating agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 4 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-12, wherein the pH of the composition is from 2 to 6.5, preferably from 3.5 to 4.5.
Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 12 wt. %to 18 wt. %of at least one anionic surfactant;

b) from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %of lactic acid and from 1 wt. %to 4 wt. %of at least one beta hydroxy acid selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, and combination thereof;

c) from 0.15 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one cationic polymer selected from polyquaterniums; and

d) from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %of at least one chelating agent selected from ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, S, S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid, and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and combinations thereof,

wherein the pH of the composition is from 3.5 to 4.5.
A process for cleansing and conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition according to any of claims 1-14 onto the hair, and then rinsing the hair with water after an optional period of exposure.