EP2512412A1 - Process for treating keratin fibers - Google Patents

Process for treating keratin fibers

Info

Publication number
EP2512412A1
EP2512412A1 EP09801295A EP09801295A EP2512412A1 EP 2512412 A1 EP2512412 A1 EP 2512412A1 EP 09801295 A EP09801295 A EP 09801295A EP 09801295 A EP09801295 A EP 09801295A EP 2512412 A1 EP2512412 A1 EP 2512412A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
keratin fibers
alcohol
composition
process according
fatty alcohol
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP09801295A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Maxime De Boni
Hiroshi Takahashi
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP2512412A1 publication Critical patent/EP2512412A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers such as hair, as well as a composition and a kit to be used for the process.
  • compositions and/or processes known as treatments for repairing damaged keratin fibers that have been proposed are still insufficient insofar as they are often temporary and do not achieve proper recovery of keratin fiber integrity.
  • Fatty alcohols are known for their cosmetic properties on keratin fibers, and they are commonly used in hair care products. For example, please refer to US-A-2006-57096.
  • the main expectation of using fatty alcohols is generally to bring lustrous and shiny effects to keratin fibers.
  • an objective of the present invention is to provide a new treatment process for keratin fibers such as hair, using a fatty alcohol, even with a relatively small amount thereof, which provides the keratin fibers with good cosmetic effects, in particular superior repairing or recovering effects, which can be effective against various stresses for a long time.
  • composition comprising at least one fatty alcohol
  • composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula:
  • X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0 " , OH, NH 2 , 0- OH, and 0-COO " .
  • the above process may further comprise the step of rinsing the keratin fibers after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of heating the keratin fibers .
  • Mechanical tension may be provided to the keratin fibers.
  • the mechanical tension may be provided by using at least one
  • reshaping means selected from the group consisting of a curler, a roller, a plate and an iron.
  • the occlusive space may be formed by at least one coating means.
  • the coating means may be rigid or flexible.
  • the coating means may comprise at least one member selected from the group
  • the keratin fibers may be heated at 45°C to 250°C during the step of heating the keratin fibers.
  • the keratin fibers may be heated by at least one heater providing at least one selected from the group consisting of hot air, hot steam, high frequency induction heating, microwave heating, infrared ray irradiation, laser, and flash lamp irradiation.
  • the coating means and/or the reshaping means may comprise the heater.
  • the fatty alcohol may be a linear or branched, and saturated o unsaturated fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol may be a non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol having the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated o unsaturated, and linear or branched radicals containing from 8 40 carbon atoms.
  • R may be chosen from saturated and
  • the fatty alcohol may be chosen from lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol,
  • linoleyl alcohol undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol may be solid or pasty at 25°C.
  • the composition may comprise the fatty alcohol in an amount of 0.001 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition may range from 3 to 11.
  • compositions for treating keratin fibers to be heated in an occlusive space comprising at least one fatty alcohol,
  • composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source carbonate ions of formula:
  • X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0 “ , OH, NH 2 , 0- OH, and O-COO " .
  • the present invention also relates to a kit for treating keratin fibers, comprising:
  • At least one coating means to form an occlusive space, and at least one heater to heat the keratin fibers in the occlusive space;
  • composition comprising at least one alcohol
  • composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula:
  • X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0 " , OH, NH 2 , 0- OH, and 0-COO " .
  • cosmetic effects by using a fatty alcohol, and in particular superior repairing or recovering effects, which can be effective against various stresses for a long time, by using a composition comprising a fatty alcohol with a specific heating process for the keratin fibers.
  • the above specific heating process is performed in a closed or occlusive environment, which limits the evaporation of water or moisture from the keratin fibers and maintains the keratin fibers at higher temperature preferably in the wet state. Accordingly, the keratin fibers can be evenly heated, and the fatty alcohol can easily penetrate into or deposit onto the keratin fibers such that it can remain in or on the keratin fibers for a long time even after some stresses such as shampooing.
  • the process according to the present invention can exhibit good cosmetic effects by using even a relatively small amount of fatty alcohol as compared to a conventional process in which it is difficult for a fatty alcohol to stay on or in the keratin . fibers .
  • composition used in the present invention must not contain any reducing agents such as thiol-compounds . Therefore, malodor derived from the reducing agents can be prevented. Furthermore, the composition used in the present invention must not contain any carbonate ion source as defined above. Therefore, cosmetic treatment is more effective, because there is no possibility of producing carbon dioxide which may form a foam that may inhibit the deposition or penetration of the fatty alcohol on or into the keratin fibers.
  • composition used for the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol.
  • fatty here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms.
  • alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 8 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, such as from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is chosen from Ci 2 -C 2 4 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl groups. R may be or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
  • Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol may be or may not be oxyalkylenated or
  • oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol is understood to mean any pure fatty alcohol with the following structure :
  • R is chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radicals comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • Z is an oxyethylene radical of formula (i) and/or an oxypropylene radical chosen from oxypropylene radicals of formulas (ii)i and
  • (ii) 2 m is the number of ethylene oxide groups and/or propylene oxide groups, and may range from 1 to 250, for example, from 2 to 100
  • glycolated fatty alcohol is
  • R is chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radicals comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • Z is a glycerol radical of formula (iii) :
  • n is the number of glycerol groups, and may range from 1 to 30, for example, from 1 to 10.
  • oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols used in accordance with the disclosure may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms and from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide groups.
  • Non-limiting examples of oxyalkylated fatty alcohols include the following commercial products:
  • BRIJ 58 (Uniquema) and SIMULSOL 58 (Seppic) [cetyl alcohol 20 EO] ;
  • MERGITAL OC30 (Cognis) [oleyl/cetyl alcohol 30 EO] ;
  • BRIJ 700 (Uniquema) [stearyl alcohol 100 EO] ;
  • WITCONOL APM Goldschmidt [myristyl alcohol 3 PO] .
  • glycerolated fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, lauryl alcohol comprising 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), oleyl alcohol comprising 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol comprising 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether) , cetearyl alcohol comprising 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol comprising 6 mol of glycerol, oleyl/cetyl alcohol comprising 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol comprising 6 mol of glycerol.
  • the fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
  • Fatty alcohol mixtures that may be used in at least one
  • embodiments include cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
  • the non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol is solid or pasty at a temperature of 25°C.
  • fatty alcohol that is solid or pasty at 25°C means a fatty alcohol that has a viscosity, measured with a rheometer at a shear rate of 1 s -1 , of greater than or equal to 1 Pas.
  • the fatty alcohol used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is chosen from cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
  • the at least one fatty alcohol may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 15%, such as from 0.1% to 15% or from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used for the present invention contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula:
  • X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0 “ , OH, NH 2 , 0- OH, and O-COO " .
  • the pH of the composition may range from 3 to 11, preferably between 4.0 and 9.0, and more preferably between 6.0 to 8.0.
  • the pH of the composition is not relatively high or low, damage to the keratin fibers by the composition can be reduced.
  • an acidic or alkali agent (s) other than sources of ions of the invention may be used alone or in combination.
  • the amount of the acidic or alkali agent (s) is not limited, but may be from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the acidic agents mention may be made of any inorganic or organic acids which are commonly used in cosmetic products such as citric acid, lactic acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HC1) . HC1 is preferable.
  • alkali agents mention may be made of any inorganic or organic basic agents which are commonly used in cosmetic products such as ammonia; alcanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri- ethanolamine, isopropanolamine; sodium and potassium hydroxides; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below: R1 R3
  • R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally
  • R lf R 2 , R3 and R 4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1,3- propanediamine and derivatives thereof.
  • monoethanolamine are preferred.
  • the composition used for the present invention may also comprise one or more additional cosmetic agent (s).
  • the amount of the additional cosmetic agent (s) is not limited, but may be from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic agent (s) may be selected from the group consisting of volatile or non volatile, linear or cyclic, amine-type or not, silicones, cationic, anionic, non ionic or amphoteric polymers, peptides and derivatives thereof, protein hydrolyzates , synthetic or natural waxes, and especially fatty alcohols, swelling agents and penetrating agents, as well as other active compounds, such as anionic, cationic, non ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, agents for combating hair loss, anti-dandruff agents, associative-type or not, natural or synthetic thickeners,
  • suspending agents such as, but not limited to, benzyl alcohol, benzyl ether, benzyl ether, benzyl ether, benzyl ether, benzyl ether sulfate, benzyl ether sulfate, benzyl ether sulfate, benzyl ether sulfate, benzyl ether sulfate, benzyl ether sulfate, benzyl, sorbitol, sulfate, benzyl sulfate, benzyl sulfate, benzyl sulfate, benzyl sulfate, benzyl sulfate, benzyl sulfate, benzyl sulfate, sulfate, sulfate, sulfate, sulfate, sulfate, sulfate, sulfate, sulfonyl
  • the vehicle for the composition used for the present invention is preferably an aqueous medium consisting of water and may
  • cosmetically acceptable organic solvents which particularly include alcohols, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, such as propylene glycol monomethylether,
  • alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol
  • polyols or polyol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, such as propylene glycol monomethylether
  • butylene glycol dipropylene glycol as well as diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethylether or
  • the water may be present in a concentration of from 10 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the organic solvent (s) may then be present in a concentration of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition used in the present invention may exist in any form such as a lotion, a gel, thickened or not, or a cream.
  • the process for treating keratin fibers according to the present invention can be performed by
  • composition comprising at least one fatty alcohol, as described above;
  • keratin fibers such as hair are subjected to a specific heating process which is performed in an occlusive space.
  • the heating process can be performed by any heating means which can be freely controlled to realize the temperature desired for the process.
  • the heating process may preferably be performed by using a special heating device or devices that can form an occlusive space to restrict the evaporation of evaporable components such as water in the above-described composition from keratin fibers and keep a predetermined temperature in the heating device throughout the process.
  • a special heating device or devices that can form an occlusive space to restrict the evaporation of evaporable components such as water in the above-described composition from keratin fibers and keep a predetermined temperature in the heating device throughout the process.
  • the evaporable components such as water in the above-described composition evaporate from the keratin fibers, most of the heat energy applied to the keratin fibers will be consumed by the evaporation, and therefore the temperature of the keratin fibers cannot increase up to the predetermined temperature until all evaporable components in the composition evaporate.
  • the above heating device may comprise a heat energy source being either in contact with keratin fibers or apart from keratin fibers, and at least one means to form an occlusive space surrounding the keratin fibers.
  • the heat energy source is used to heat keratin fibers.
  • the heat energy source may be at least one heater providing at least one selected from the group consisting of hot air, hot steam, high frequency induction heating, microwave heating, infrared ray irradiation, laser, and flash lamp irradiation.
  • the occlusive space may be formed by at least one coating means.
  • a plurality of coating means may be used.
  • the coating means may be rigid or flexible.
  • the coating means may comprise at least one member selected from the group consisting of a film and a sheet.
  • the material of the film or the sheet is not limited.
  • the film or the sheet may comprise a thermoplastic or thermosetting resin, a paper, a textile, a bonnet, a metal foil such as aluminum foil, and the like.
  • the film or sheet may be set on a heating rod, a heating bar or a heating plate which is covered by keratin fibers.
  • the coating means may
  • the film or sheet which includes a heater may be set on a rod, a bar, or a plate which is covered by keratin fibers.
  • the occlusive conditions can restrict the evaporation of
  • evaporable components such as water in the above-described
  • composition applied to keratin fibers and therefore the
  • the temperature of the keratin fibers can be increased higher than that obtainable by a conventional heating process or device for the keratin fibers in open conditions. Furthermore, the keratin fibers can be heated effectively, and the keratin fibers can be heated evenly.
  • the occlusive space may comprise apertures, the surface area of which is less than 5%, preferably less than 3% and more particularly less than 0.5% of the total surface area of the coating means.
  • the total surface area of the coating means comprises the surface area of, when it is present, an opening means for the coating means.
  • the apertures may be passages, holes or orifices, which may allow an exchange of air between the occlusive space and the exterior thereof, especially when the reaction such as forming vapor inside the occlusive space is too great.
  • a person skilled in the art could form the apertures such that the diffusion of heat in the occlusive space is not impaired.
  • the keratin fibers can be heated at 45°C to 250°C, preferably 60°C to 200°C, more preferably 60°C to 150°C, more preferably 60°C to 90°C, during the step of heating the keratin fibers.
  • the heating process may be performed for an appropriate time which is required to treat keratin fibers.
  • the time length for the heating process is not limited, but it may be from 1 minute to 2 hours, preferably 1 minute to 1 hour, and more preferably 1 minute to 30 minutes.
  • the time for heating may be from 5 to 20 minutes, preferably 10 to 15 minutes.
  • the keratin fibers may be rinsed after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of heating the keratin fibers.
  • the keratin fiber may be subjected to mechanical tension which is typically used for permanent
  • mechanical tension is applied to keratin fibers may be performed as follows.
  • keratin fibers are subjected to mechanical tension for deformation.
  • the mechanical tension can be applied to the keratin fibers by any means to deform the keratin fibers to an intended shape.
  • the mechanical tension may be provided by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of a curler, a roller, a clip, a plate and an iron.
  • the reshaping means may comprise at least one heater as described above. If the keratin fibers are rolled around a curler, this rolling-up may be performed on the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, on half the length of the keratin fibers. Depending on, for example, the desired hairstyle shape and amount of curls, the rolling-up may be performed with more or less thick locks .
  • the above-described composition is applied to the keratin fibers.
  • the application of the composition may be performed by any means, such as a brush and a comb.
  • the keratin fibers to which the mechanical tension has been applied should be treated with the composition. It may be possible that the keratin fibers are left as they are for a certain amount of time, if necessary.
  • the heat energy is applied to the keratin fibers under occlusive conditions as described above.
  • This process for permanent deformation of keratin fibers may be performed without any step of oxidizing the keratin fibers.
  • the time required for the process according to the present invention can be shorter than that for a conventional process which needs an oxidizing step. Furthermore, damage to the keratin fibers by the oxidizing step can be avoided.
  • the keratin fibers may be rinsed after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of heating the keratin fibers.
  • One embodiment of the cosmetic treatment process according to the present invention may be a process for reshaping or permanent deforming keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising:
  • the temperature can be set, adjusted and
  • thermo-measurement probe such as Digital Surface Sensor Module, reference MT-144, sold by Sakaguchi E.H VOC Corp (Japan), set on the keratin fibers.
  • the probe is set on a single keratin fiber.
  • the probe is set on the part of the keratin fibers which directly contacts with the occlusive space, and more preferably, the probe is set on the part of the keratin fibers which directly contacts with the occlusive space and forms the curl end of the keratin fibers, if a curler is used.
  • the temperature is measured at atmospheric pressure of 101325 Pa.
  • the temperature of the keratin fibers may be constant with a fluctuation of ⁇ 2 or 3°C over the head, if the keratin fibers are hair, of an individual, and the probe may be set on any type of keratin fibers.
  • keratin fibers are hair, according to the present
  • the constant temperature with a fluctuation of ⁇ 2 or 3°C can be obtained for any type of hair, and the temperature of the hair can be controlled to be constant ⁇ 2 or 3°C during the heating of the hair at a certain temperature.
  • the hair style becomes uniform and homogeneous for the entirety of the hair, and a more excellent hair style can be finally obtained.
  • the coating means may comprise one or more thermal insulating materials, and more advantageously, the coating means may consist of the material (s).
  • thermal insulating material means any material which has an electric conductivity of 0 to 1 W/m°C (PVC: 0.17 W/m°C) .
  • the heating means may be adjusted such that the temperature measured on the keratin fibers is 50°C or more, more preferably 55°C to less than 150°C, and further more preferably less than 100°C. It is preferable that the heating is performed by heating via electrical resistance.
  • the coating means is impermeable with regard to the composition used in the step b) .
  • At least one of the reshaping or mechanical tensioning means and at least one of the covering means may include a heater.
  • occlusive space means that when the coating means is placed on the reshaping or mechanical tensioning means, or vice versa, they together form a closed structure in which heat can diffuse, but heat cannot diffuse out of or is difficult to diffuse out of the closed structure.
  • the coating means and the reshaping or mechanical tensioning means can form the occlusive space when they are set on the head, if the keratin fibers are hair.
  • the occlusive space may form a condensation cage in which water and a component or components in the composition used in the step b) may evaporate from the keratin fibers, adhere to the wall of the coating means, and drop onto the keratin fibers. This cycle may be repeated during the heating of the keratin fibers.
  • the keratin fibers can be always kept wet, and drying and deteriorating of the keratin fibers will be prevented.
  • occlusive space is an important characteristic of the present invention, because the keratin fibers in the occlusive space can be kept wet and the temperature of the keratin fibers can be constant.
  • the process of the present invention may comprise an additional step of tightening the coating means on the head of an individual, if the keratin fibers are hair, by an elastic cord, an extensible band, or a stretch.
  • the amount of a cosmetic component or components in the composition is advantageously reduced as compared to the processes in the prior art.
  • the amount of the cosmetic component (s) may be 0.3 to 3wt% of the composition .
  • a coating means may be placed on each hair curler as the reshaping or mechanically tensioning means, if the keratin fibers are hair.
  • each of the hair curlers if two or more hair curlers are used, may be covered individually by a coating means. It is advantageous to cover each hair curler because leaking to the scalp of the composition which has been applied onto keratin fibers in the step b) can be prevented.
  • a coating means may cover all hair curlers, if two or more hair curlers are used.
  • the coating means may cover the entirety of the head if the keratin fibers are hair.
  • the occlusive space formed in the step d) may be maintained during the step e) .
  • the coating means may be removed only after the step e) or after the stop of the heating in the step e) .
  • the composition may be applied to keratin fibers before applying mechanical tension to the keratin fibers. It may be possible that the keratin fibers are left as they are for a certain amount of time, if necessary, before and/or after
  • the keratin fibers may be fixed by oxidation after being taken out from the coating means.
  • the present invention also relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers to be heated in an occlusive space, comprising at least one fatty alcohol,
  • composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula:
  • X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0 " , OH, NH 2 , O- OH, and O-COO " .
  • This composition may not need to be used in combination with an oxidizing agent which is used in a conventional permanent
  • the composition may be used in one step, whereas two steps (reducing step and oxidizing step) are necessary in the conventional permanent deformation of keratin fibers.
  • This composition may have the same technical features as those of the composition described above.
  • the present invention also relates to a kit for treating keratin fibers, comprising:
  • At least one reshaping means to provide the keratin fibers with mechanical tension
  • At least one coating means to form an occlusive space, and at least one heater to heat the keratin fibers in the occlusive space;
  • composition comprising at least one fatty alcohol wherein the composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula:
  • X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0 " , OH, NH 2 , O-OH, and O-COO " .
  • the coating means and the heater, as well as the composition in the kit, may be the same as those described above.
  • composition 1 A hair treatment composition having the following composition shown in Table 1 was prepared (active ingredients in wt %).
  • Composition 1 was applied for 15 minutes on a lg Japanese
  • the hair was soft, detangled, shiny and smooth (smoother than the hair in Comparative Example 1) .
  • Composition 1 was applied for 15 minutes on a lg Japanese
  • composition 2 A hair treatment composition having the following composition shown in Table 2 was prepared (active ingredients in wt %) .
  • Composition 2 was applied for 15 minutes on a lg Japanese
  • Composition 2 was applied for 15 minutes on a lg Japanese

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers comprising the steps of: applying onto the keratin fibers a composition comprising at least one fatty alcohol; then placing the keratin fibers in an occlusive space; and then heating the keratin fibers, wherein the composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula: wherein X is a group selected from the group consisting of O-, OH, NH2, O- OH, and O-COO-. The present invention also relates to the composition itself and a kit to be used for the above process.

Description

DESCRIPTION
PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers such as hair, as well as a composition and a kit to be used for the process.
BACKGROUND ART
Due to the many physical stresses (UV, shampoo, brushing, and the like) and chemical stresses (coloration, perm, relaxing,
pollution-, and the like) that keratin fibers such as hair must undergo daily, research for effectively repairing damaged keratin fibers has become important in the cosmetic treatments for keratin fibers.
Repairing damaged keratin fibers is only worthwhile if a real sensation of return to the original state of the keratin fibers is perceived. Furthermore, the repairing treatment should be effective against various stresses, as mentioned before.
Technologies (compositions and/or processes) known as treatments for repairing damaged keratin fibers that have been proposed are still insufficient insofar as they are often temporary and do not achieve proper recovery of keratin fiber integrity.
Fatty alcohols are known for their cosmetic properties on keratin fibers, and they are commonly used in hair care products. For example, please refer to US-A-2006-57096.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
The main expectation of using fatty alcohols is generally to bring lustrous and shiny effects to keratin fibers.
Nevertheless, their benefits on keratin fibers are still
insufficient due to their low deposition yield onto the keratin fibers and low penetration into the keratin fibers. This means that the efficiency of the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers using a fatty alcohol is low and a large amount of fatty alcohol is necessary in the formulation used for the cosmetic treatment. Thus, an objective of the present invention is to provide a new treatment process for keratin fibers such as hair, using a fatty alcohol, even with a relatively small amount thereof, which provides the keratin fibers with good cosmetic effects, in particular superior repairing or recovering effects, which can be effective against various stresses for a long time.
The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a process for treating keratin fibers comprising the steps of:
applying onto the keratin fibers a composition comprising at least one fatty alcohol;
then placing the keratin fibers in an occlusive space; and then heating the keratin fibers,
wherein
the composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula:
wherein
X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0", OH, NH2, 0- OH, and 0-COO".
The above process may further comprise the step of rinsing the keratin fibers after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of heating the keratin fibers .
Mechanical tension may be provided to the keratin fibers. The mechanical tension may be provided by using at least one
reshaping means selected from the group consisting of a curler, a roller, a plate and an iron.
The occlusive space may be formed by at least one coating means. The coating means may be rigid or flexible. The coating means may comprise at least one member selected from the group
consisting of a film and a sheet.
In the above process, the keratin fibers may be heated at 45°C to 250°C during the step of heating the keratin fibers. The keratin fibers may be heated by at least one heater providing at least one selected from the group consisting of hot air, hot steam, high frequency induction heating, microwave heating, infrared ray irradiation, laser, and flash lamp irradiation. The coating means and/or the reshaping means may comprise the heater.
The fatty alcohol may be a linear or branched, and saturated o unsaturated fatty alcohol.
The fatty alcohol may be a non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol having the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated o unsaturated, and linear or branched radicals containing from 8 40 carbon atoms. The R may be chosen from saturated and
unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to carbon atoms .
The fatty alcohol may be chosen from lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol,
linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol.
The fatty alcohol may be solid or pasty at 25°C.
The composition may comprise the fatty alcohol in an amount of 0.001 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the composition may range from 3 to 11.
Another aspect of the present invention is a composition for treating keratin fibers to be heated in an occlusive space, comprising at least one fatty alcohol,
wherein
the composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source carbonate ions of formula:
wherein
X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0", OH, NH2, 0- OH, and O-COO".
The present invention also relates to a kit for treating keratin fibers, comprising:
a device comprising
at least one coating means to form an occlusive space, and at least one heater to heat the keratin fibers in the occlusive space;
and a composition comprising at least one alcohol,
wherein
the composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula:
wherein
X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0", OH, NH2, 0- OH, and 0-COO".
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT OF THE INVENTION
After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide keratin fibers such as hair with good
cosmetic effects, by using a fatty alcohol, and in particular superior repairing or recovering effects, which can be effective against various stresses for a long time, by using a composition comprising a fatty alcohol with a specific heating process for the keratin fibers.
The above specific heating process is performed in a closed or occlusive environment, which limits the evaporation of water or moisture from the keratin fibers and maintains the keratin fibers at higher temperature preferably in the wet state. Accordingly, the keratin fibers can be evenly heated, and the fatty alcohol can easily penetrate into or deposit onto the keratin fibers such that it can remain in or on the keratin fibers for a long time even after some stresses such as shampooing.
Since a fatty alcohol can easily stay on or in the keratin fibers, the process according to the present invention can exhibit good cosmetic effects by using even a relatively small amount of fatty alcohol as compared to a conventional process in which it is difficult for a fatty alcohol to stay on or in the keratin . fibers .
The composition used in the present invention must not contain any reducing agents such as thiol-compounds . Therefore, malodor derived from the reducing agents can be prevented. Furthermore, the composition used in the present invention must not contain any carbonate ion source as defined above. Therefore, cosmetic treatment is more effective, because there is no possibility of producing carbon dioxide which may form a foam that may inhibit the deposition or penetration of the fatty alcohol on or into the keratin fibers.
(Composition)
The composition used for the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol.
The term "fatty" here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 8 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, such as from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is chosen from Ci2-C24 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl groups. R may be or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
The fatty alcohol may be or may not be oxyalkylenated or
glycerolated.
As used herein, the term "oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol" is understood to mean any pure fatty alcohol with the following structure :
RO-^z+-H in which: R is chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radicals comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
Z is an oxyethylene radical of formula (i) and/or an oxypropylene radical chosen from oxypropylene radicals of formulas (ii)i and
(ii)2: CH2—CH2—0
:i)
CH2—CH2—CH2—
(ii)2 m is the number of ethylene oxide groups and/or propylene oxide groups, and may range from 1 to 250, for example, from 2 to 100
As used herein, the term "glycerolated fatty alcohol" is
understood to mean any pure fatty alcohol with the following structure :
in which:
R is chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radicals comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
Z is a glycerol radical of formula (iii) :
CH2—CH—O
I
CH2OH
, and
n is the number of glycerol groups, and may range from 1 to 30, for example, from 1 to 10.
In at least one embodiment of the present invention, the
oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols used in accordance with the disclosure may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms and from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide groups.
Non-limiting examples of oxyalkylated fatty alcohols include the following commercial products:
MERGITAL LM2 (Cognis) [lauryl alcohol 2 EO] ;
IFRALAN L12 (Ifrachem) and REWOPAL 12 (Goldschmidt ) [lauryl alcohol 12 EO] ;
E PILAN KA 2.5/90 FL (Albright & Wilson) and MERGITAL BL309 (Cognis) [decyl alcohol 3 EO] ;
EMPILAN KA 5/90 FL (Albright & Wilson) and MERGITAL BL589
(Cognis) [decyl alcohol 5 EO] ;
BRIJ 58 (Uniquema) and SIMULSOL 58 (Seppic) [cetyl alcohol 20 EO] ;
EMULGIN 05 (Cognis) [oleyl/cetyl alcohol 5 EO] ;
MERGITAL OC30 (Cognis) [oleyl/cetyl alcohol 30 EO] ;
BRIJ 72 (Uniquema) [stearyl alcohol 2 EO] ;
BRIJ 76 (Uniquema) [stearyl alcohol 10 EO] ;
BRIJ 78P (Uniquema) [stearyl alcohol 20 EO] ;
BRIJ 700 (Uniquema) [stearyl alcohol 100 EO] ;
EMULGIN Bl (Cognis) [cetearyl alcohol 12 EO] ;
EMULGIN L (Cognis) [cetyl alcohol 9 EO and 2 PO] ; and
WITCONOL APM (Goldschmidt) [myristyl alcohol 3 PO] .
Examples of glycerolated fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, lauryl alcohol comprising 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), oleyl alcohol comprising 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol comprising 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether) , cetearyl alcohol comprising 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol comprising 6 mol of glycerol, oleyl/cetyl alcohol comprising 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol comprising 6 mol of glycerol.
The fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
Fatty alcohol mixtures that may be used in at least one
embodiment include cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
In at least one embodiment, the non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol is solid or pasty at a temperature of 25°C. For the purposes of the present disclosure, the expression "fatty alcohol that is solid or pasty at 25°C" means a fatty alcohol that has a viscosity, measured with a rheometer at a shear rate of 1 s-1, of greater than or equal to 1 Pas.
According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is chosen from cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
The at least one fatty alcohol may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 15%, such as from 0.1% to 15% or from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition used for the present invention contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula:
wherein
X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0", OH, NH2, 0- OH, and O-COO".
The pH of the composition may range from 3 to 11, preferably between 4.0 and 9.0, and more preferably between 6.0 to 8.0.
Since the pH of the composition is not relatively high or low, damage to the keratin fibers by the composition can be reduced.
In order to adjust the pH, an acidic or alkali agent (s) other than sources of ions of the invention may be used alone or in combination. The amount of the acidic or alkali agent (s) is not limited, but may be from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. As the acidic agents, mention may be made of any inorganic or organic acids which are commonly used in cosmetic products such as citric acid, lactic acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HC1) . HC1 is preferable. As the alkali agents, mention may be made of any inorganic or organic basic agents which are commonly used in cosmetic products such as ammonia; alcanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri- ethanolamine, isopropanolamine; sodium and potassium hydroxides; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below: R1 R3
\ /
N-R-N
/ \
R2 R4
wherein R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally
substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Rlf R2, R3 and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1,3- propanediamine and derivatives thereof. Arginine and
monoethanolamine are preferred.
The composition used for the present invention may also comprise one or more additional cosmetic agent (s). The amount of the additional cosmetic agent (s) is not limited, but may be from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic agent (s) may be selected from the group consisting of volatile or non volatile, linear or cyclic, amine-type or not, silicones, cationic, anionic, non ionic or amphoteric polymers, peptides and derivatives thereof, protein hydrolyzates , synthetic or natural waxes, and especially fatty alcohols, swelling agents and penetrating agents, as well as other active compounds, such as anionic, cationic, non ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, agents for combating hair loss, anti-dandruff agents, associative-type or not, natural or synthetic thickeners,
suspending agents, sequestering agents, opacifying agents, dyes, sunscreen agents, fillers, vitamins or provitamins, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, as well as fragrances, preserving agents, stabilizers and mixtures thereof.
The vehicle for the composition used for the present invention is preferably an aqueous medium consisting of water and may
advantageously contain one or several cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which particularly include alcohols, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, such as propylene glycol monomethylether,
butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethylether or
monobutylether . The water may be present in a concentration of from 10 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The organic solvent (s) may then be present in a concentration of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition used in the present invention may exist in any form such as a lotion, a gel, thickened or not, or a cream.
(Keratin Fiber Treatment Process)
The process for treating keratin fibers according to the present invention can be performed by
applying onto the keratin fibers a composition comprising at least one fatty alcohol, as described above;
then placing the keratin fibers in an occlusive space; and then heating the keratin fibers,
According to the present invention relating to the treatment process for keratin fibers, keratin fibers such as hair are subjected to a specific heating process which is performed in an occlusive space.
The heating process can be performed by any heating means which can be freely controlled to realize the temperature desired for the process.
The heating process may preferably be performed by using a special heating device or devices that can form an occlusive space to restrict the evaporation of evaporable components such as water in the above-described composition from keratin fibers and keep a predetermined temperature in the heating device throughout the process.
If the evaporable components such as water in the above-described composition evaporate from the keratin fibers, most of the heat energy applied to the keratin fibers will be consumed by the evaporation, and therefore the temperature of the keratin fibers cannot increase up to the predetermined temperature until all evaporable components in the composition evaporate.
The above heating device may comprise a heat energy source being either in contact with keratin fibers or apart from keratin fibers, and at least one means to form an occlusive space surrounding the keratin fibers.
The heat energy source is used to heat keratin fibers. The heat energy source may be at least one heater providing at least one selected from the group consisting of hot air, hot steam, high frequency induction heating, microwave heating, infrared ray irradiation, laser, and flash lamp irradiation.
The occlusive space may be formed by at least one coating means. A plurality of coating means may be used. The coating means may be rigid or flexible.
The coating means may comprise at least one member selected from the group consisting of a film and a sheet. The material of the film or the sheet is not limited. For example, the film or the sheet may comprise a thermoplastic or thermosetting resin, a paper, a textile, a bonnet, a metal foil such as aluminum foil, and the like.
For example, the film or sheet may be set on a heating rod, a heating bar or a heating plate which is covered by keratin fibers.
According to the present invention, the coating means may
comprise the heat energy source. Therefore, for example, the film or sheet which includes a heater may be set on a rod, a bar, or a plate which is covered by keratin fibers.
The occlusive conditions can restrict the evaporation of
evaporable components such as water in the above-described
composition applied to keratin fibers, and therefore the
temperature of the keratin fibers can be increased higher than that obtainable by a conventional heating process or device for the keratin fibers in open conditions. Furthermore, the keratin fibers can be heated effectively, and the keratin fibers can be heated evenly.
According to one variant of the present invention, the occlusive space may comprise apertures, the surface area of which is less than 5%, preferably less than 3% and more particularly less than 0.5% of the total surface area of the coating means. According to this variant, the total surface area of the coating means comprises the surface area of, when it is present, an opening means for the coating means.
The apertures may be passages, holes or orifices, which may allow an exchange of air between the occlusive space and the exterior thereof, especially when the reaction such as forming vapor inside the occlusive space is too great. On the other hand, a person skilled in the art could form the apertures such that the diffusion of heat in the occlusive space is not impaired. The keratin fibers can be heated at 45°C to 250°C, preferably 60°C to 200°C, more preferably 60°C to 150°C, more preferably 60°C to 90°C, during the step of heating the keratin fibers.
The heating process may be performed for an appropriate time which is required to treat keratin fibers. The time length for the heating process is not limited, but it may be from 1 minute to 2 hours, preferably 1 minute to 1 hour, and more preferably 1 minute to 30 minutes. For example, the time for heating may be from 5 to 20 minutes, preferably 10 to 15 minutes.
The keratin fibers may be rinsed after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of heating the keratin fibers.
(Permanent Deformation Process for Keratin Fiber)
According to the present invention relating to the treatment process for keratin fibers, the keratin fiber may be subjected to mechanical tension which is typically used for permanent
deformation .
The permanent deformation process for keratin fibers when
mechanical tension is applied to keratin fibers may be performed as follows.
First, keratin fibers are subjected to mechanical tension for deformation. The mechanical tension can be applied to the keratin fibers by any means to deform the keratin fibers to an intended shape. For example, the mechanical tension may be provided by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of a curler, a roller, a clip, a plate and an iron. The reshaping means may comprise at least one heater as described above. If the keratin fibers are rolled around a curler, this rolling-up may be performed on the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, on half the length of the keratin fibers. Depending on, for example, the desired hairstyle shape and amount of curls, the rolling-up may be performed with more or less thick locks .
Next, the above-described composition is applied to the keratin fibers. The application of the composition may be performed by any means, such as a brush and a comb. The keratin fibers to which the mechanical tension has been applied should be treated with the composition. It may be possible that the keratin fibers are left as they are for a certain amount of time, if necessary.
Lastly, the above-described heating process is performed. The heat energy is applied to the keratin fibers under occlusive conditions as described above.
This process for permanent deformation of keratin fibers may be performed without any step of oxidizing the keratin fibers.
Therefore, the time required for the process according to the present invention can be shorter than that for a conventional process which needs an oxidizing step. Furthermore, damage to the keratin fibers by the oxidizing step can be avoided.
The keratin fibers may be rinsed after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of heating the keratin fibers.
One embodiment of the cosmetic treatment process according to the present invention may be a process for reshaping or permanent deforming keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising:
a) a step of placing the keratin fibers under mechanical tension by rolling them up on at least one reshaping or mechanically tensioning means so as to form curls;
b) a step of applying the above-described composition to the keratin fibers;
c) an optional step of rinsing the keratin fibers,
d) a step of placing at least one coating means on the reshaping or mechanically tensioning means or vice versa to form one or more occlusive spaces; and
e) a step of heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of between 45 ± 2 or 3°C and 250 ± 2 or 3°C for 1 minute to 2 hours.
In this process, the temperature can be set, adjusted and
regulated by using one or more heating means, and may be measured with a thermo-measurement probe such as Digital Surface Sensor Module, reference MT-144, sold by Sakaguchi E.H VOC Corp (Japan), set on the keratin fibers. Normally, the probe is set on a single keratin fiber. However, it is advantageous that the probe is set on the part of the keratin fibers which directly contacts with the occlusive space, and more preferably, the probe is set on the part of the keratin fibers which directly contacts with the occlusive space and forms the curl end of the keratin fibers, if a curler is used. Preferably, the temperature is measured at atmospheric pressure of 101325 Pa.
According to the present invention, the temperature of the keratin fibers may be constant with a fluctuation of ± 2 or 3°C over the head, if the keratin fibers are hair, of an individual, and the probe may be set on any type of keratin fibers.
If the keratin fibers are hair, according to the present
invention, the constant temperature with a fluctuation of ± 2 or 3°C can be obtained for any type of hair, and the temperature of the hair can be controlled to be constant ± 2 or 3°C during the heating of the hair at a certain temperature. Thus, the hair style becomes uniform and homogeneous for the entirety of the hair, and a more excellent hair style can be finally obtained.
Advantageously, the coating means may comprise one or more thermal insulating materials, and more advantageously, the coating means may consist of the material (s).
The term "thermal insulating material" means any material which has an electric conductivity of 0 to 1 W/m°C (PVC: 0.17 W/m°C) .
Preferably, the heating means may be adjusted such that the temperature measured on the keratin fibers is 50°C or more, more preferably 55°C to less than 150°C, and further more preferably less than 100°C. It is preferable that the heating is performed by heating via electrical resistance.
Advantageously, the coating means is impermeable with regard to the composition used in the step b) .
In the above embodiment, at least one of the reshaping or mechanical tensioning means and at least one of the covering means may include a heater.
In the above embodiment, "occlusive space" means that when the coating means is placed on the reshaping or mechanical tensioning means, or vice versa, they together form a closed structure in which heat can diffuse, but heat cannot diffuse out of or is difficult to diffuse out of the closed structure. It is
preferable that the coating means and the reshaping or mechanical tensioning means can form the occlusive space when they are set on the head, if the keratin fibers are hair. The occlusive space may form a condensation cage in which water and a component or components in the composition used in the step b) may evaporate from the keratin fibers, adhere to the wall of the coating means, and drop onto the keratin fibers. This cycle may be repeated during the heating of the keratin fibers. Thus, the keratin fibers can be always kept wet, and drying and deteriorating of the keratin fibers will be prevented.
The formation of occlusive space is an important characteristic of the present invention, because the keratin fibers in the occlusive space can be kept wet and the temperature of the keratin fibers can be constant.
Preferably, the process of the present invention may comprise an additional step of tightening the coating means on the head of an individual, if the keratin fibers are hair, by an elastic cord, an extensible band, or a stretch.
According to the process of the present invention, because of the occlusive space in which the composition can be continuously condensed on the keratin fibers, the amount of a cosmetic component or components in the composition is advantageously reduced as compared to the processes in the prior art. The amount of the cosmetic component (s) may be 0.3 to 3wt% of the composition .
In a preferred embodiment, a coating means may be placed on each hair curler as the reshaping or mechanically tensioning means, if the keratin fibers are hair. In other words, each of the hair curlers, if two or more hair curlers are used, may be covered individually by a coating means. It is advantageous to cover each hair curler because leaking to the scalp of the composition which has been applied onto keratin fibers in the step b) can be prevented.
In another preferred embodiment, a coating means may cover all hair curlers, if two or more hair curlers are used. In other words, the coating means may cover the entirety of the head if the keratin fibers are hair.
Advantageously, the occlusive space formed in the step d) may be maintained during the step e) . In other words, the coating means may be removed only after the step e) or after the stop of the heating in the step e) . If necessary, the composition may be applied to keratin fibers before applying mechanical tension to the keratin fibers. It may be possible that the keratin fibers are left as they are for a certain amount of time, if necessary, before and/or after
applying mechanical tension to the keratin fibers, before and/or after applying the above-described composition to the keratin fibers, and before and/or after heating the keratin fibers.
After the above step e) , if necessary, the keratin fibers may be fixed by oxidation after being taken out from the coating means.
(Products)
The present invention also relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers to be heated in an occlusive space, comprising at least one fatty alcohol,
wherein
the composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula:
wherein
X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0", OH, NH2, O- OH, and O-COO".
This composition may not need to be used in combination with an oxidizing agent which is used in a conventional permanent
deformation of keratin fibers. Therefore, if keratin fibers should be permanently deformed, the composition may be used in one step, whereas two steps (reducing step and oxidizing step) are necessary in the conventional permanent deformation of keratin fibers.
This composition may have the same technical features as those of the composition described above.
The present invention also relates to a kit for treating keratin fibers, comprising:
a device comprising
at least one reshaping means to provide the keratin fibers with mechanical tension,
at least one coating means to form an occlusive space, and at least one heater to heat the keratin fibers in the occlusive space;
and
a composition comprising at least one fatty alcohol wherein the composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula:
wherein
X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0", OH, NH2, O-OH, and O-COO".
The coating means and the heater, as well as the composition in the kit, may be the same as those described above.
EXAMPLES
The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
Composition 1
A hair treatment composition (referred to as "Composition 1") having the following composition shown in Table 1 was prepared (active ingredients in wt %).
Table 1
Example 1
Composition 1 was applied for 15 minutes on a lg Japanese
bleached hair swatch previously wrapped on a 1.7 cm heating perm- roller. Then, the perm-roller was covered by a plastic film and plugged into a Digital Perm Machine (Oohiro, model ODIS-2).
After a heating process at 90°C for 15 minutes, the hair was rinsed, removed from the perm-roller and dried.
The hair was soft, detangled, shiny and smooth (smoother than the hair in Comparative Example 1) .
Comparative Example 1
Composition 1 was applied for 15 minutes on a lg Japanese
bleached hair swatch which was the same as that used in Example 1. After leaving the hair without heating for 15 minutes, the hair was rinsed and dried.
After the treatment, the hair was less smooth as compared to the hair in Example 1.
Composition 2
A hair treatment composition (referred to as "Composition 2") having the following composition shown in Table 2 was prepared (active ingredients in wt %) .
Table 2
Example 2
Composition 2 was applied for 15 minutes on a lg Japanese
bleached hair swatch previously wrapped on a 1.7 cm heating perm- roller. Then, the perm-roller was covered by a plastic film and plugged into a Digital Perm Machine (Oohiro, model ODIS-2).
After a heating process at 90°C for 15 minutes, the hair was rinsed, removed from the perm-roller and dried. The hair was very soft, supple and shiny. Comparative Example 2
Composition 2 was applied for 15 minutes on a lg Japanese
bleached hair swatch which was the same as that used in Example 2. After leaving the hair without heating for 15 minutes, the hair was rinsed and dried.
After the treatment, the hair was slightly smooth but the hair was less smooth as compared to the hair in Example 2.

Claims

1. A process for treating keratin fibers comprising the steps
of:
applying onto the keratin fibers a composition comprising at least one fatty alcohol;
then placing the keratin fibers in an occlusive space; and then heating the keratin fibers,
wherein
the composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula:
wherein
X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0", OH, NH2, O-OH, and 0-COO".
The process according to Claim 1, further comprising the step of rinsing the keratin fibers after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of heating the keratin fibers.
The process according to Claim 1 or 2, further comprising providing the keratin fibers with mechanical tension.
The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the occlusive space is formed by at least one coating means.
The process according to Claim 4, wherein the coating means is rigid or flexible.
The process according to Claim 4 or 5, wherein the coating means comprises at least one member selected from the group consisting of a film and a sheet.
The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the keratin fibers are heated at 45°C to 250°C during the step of heating the keratin fibers.
The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the keratin fibers are heated by at least one heater
providing at least one selected from the group consisting of hot air, hot steam, high frequency induction heating, microwave heating, infra-red ray irradiation, laser, and flash lamp irradiation.
9. The process according to Claim 8, wherein the coating means comprises the heater.
10. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein
the fatty alcohol is a linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohol.
11. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the fatty alcohol is a non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol having the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms.
12. The process according to Claim 11, wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
13. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the fatty alcohol is chosen from lauryl alcohol, cetyl
alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol.
14. A composition for treating keratin fibers to be heated in an occlusive space, comprising at least one fatty alcohol, wherein
the composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula:
wherein
X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0", OH, NH2, O-OH, and O-COO".
15. A kit for treating keratin fibers, comprising:
a device comprising
at least one coating means to form an occlusive space, and at least one heater to heat the keratin fibers in the
occlusive space;
and a composition comprising at least one fatty alcohol,
wherein
the composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula:
wherein
X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0", OH, NH2, O-OH, and O-COO".
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