JP4413090B2 - 保湿化粧料 - Google Patents
保湿化粧料 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP4413090B2 JP4413090B2 JP2004183367A JP2004183367A JP4413090B2 JP 4413090 B2 JP4413090 B2 JP 4413090B2 JP 2004183367 A JP2004183367 A JP 2004183367A JP 2004183367 A JP2004183367 A JP 2004183367A JP 4413090 B2 JP4413090 B2 JP 4413090B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- weight
- polymer
- skin
- acid
- methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
Links
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 title description 19
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title description 8
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 33
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 32
- ZSZRUEAFVQITHH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methylprop-2-enoyloxy)ethyl 2-(trimethylazaniumyl)ethyl phosphate Chemical compound CC(=C)C(=O)OCCOP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C ZSZRUEAFVQITHH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 24
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 24
- KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycine betaine Chemical compound C[N+](C)(C)CC([O-])=O KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 21
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- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
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- 235000021355 Stearic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethanolamine Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N (2r,4r,4as,6as,6as,6br,8ar,12ar,14as,14bs)-2-hydroxy-4,4a,6a,6b,8a,11,11,14a-octamethyl-2,4,5,6,6a,7,8,9,10,12,12a,13,14,14b-tetradecahydro-1h-picen-3-one Chemical compound C([C@H]1[C@]2(C)CC[C@@]34C)C(C)(C)CC[C@]1(C)CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]4CC[C@@]1(C)[C@H]3C[C@@H](O)C(=O)[C@@H]1C DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N 0.000 description 2
- GHOKWGTUZJEAQD-ZETCQYMHSA-N (D)-(+)-Pantothenic acid Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)[C@@H](O)C(=O)NCCC(O)=O GHOKWGTUZJEAQD-ZETCQYMHSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- AZQWKYJCGOJGHM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,4-benzoquinone Chemical compound O=C1C=CC(=O)C=C1 AZQWKYJCGOJGHM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- PQUXFUBNSYCQAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-(2,3-difluorophenyl)ethanone Chemical compound CC(=O)C1=CC=CC(F)=C1F PQUXFUBNSYCQAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 239000004386 Erythritol Substances 0.000 description 2
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Description
(2) 包水性ポリマーとして、少なくともデンプン・アクリル酸ブロック重合体及び/又はその塩を含有することを特徴とする、(1)に記載の皮膚外用組成物。
(3) 2−メタクリロイルオキシエチルホスホリルコリンを構成モノマーとする重合体乃至は共重合体の含有量が0.0001質量%〜5質量%であることを特徴とする、(1)乃至(2)に記載の皮膚外用組成物。
(4) さらに、ベタイン類を含有することを特徴とする、(1)〜(3)何れか1項に記載の皮膚外用組成物。
(5) ベタイン類の含有量が0.001質量%〜10質量%であることを特徴とする、(4)に記載の皮膚外用組成物。
2−メタクリオキシエチルホスホリルコリンを構成モノマーとする重合体(ホモ重合体)としては、市販品(日本油脂社製「Lipidure−HMシリーズ」)があるので、これらを入手して使用することが可能であり、好ましい。また、2−メタクリルオキシエチルホスホリルコリンと共重合するメタクリル酸アルキルとしては、通常入手できるメタクリル酸アルキルが使用可能であるが、具体的にはメタクリル酸メチル、メタクリル酸エチル、メタクリル酸ブチル、メタクリル酸2−エチルヘキシル、メタクリル酸ラウリル、メタクリル酸ミリスチル、メタクリル酸ステアリルなどが例示できる。これらのモノマーの内、メタクリル酸ブチルが特に好ましい。2−メタクリルオキシエチルホスホリルコリンとメタクリル酸アルキル共重合体のモノマー組成比は97:3〜45:55が好ましく例示できる。これより、メタクリル酸アルキル組成比が少なくなると、共重合体とする効果が無くなるし、逆に多くなると、水への馴染みが少なくなってしまう。これらの重合体乃至は共重合体の皮膚外用組成物中での含有量は、0.0001重量%〜5重量%が好ましく、0.001重量%〜1重量%が更に好ましく、0.002重量%〜0.3重量%が特に好ましい。また、2−メタクリロイルオキシエチルホスホリルコリンとメタクリル酸ブチルの共重合体としては、2−メタクリロイルオキシエチルホスホリルコリンとメタクリル酸ブチルのモル比が、およそ80:20であり、分子量が100000〜1000000程度の2−メタクリロイルオキシエチルホスホリルコリン・メタクリル酸ブチル共重合体の5%水溶液が市販されており、これらの市販品(日本油脂社製;Lipidure−PMBシリーズ)を入手して使用することも可能でり、好ましい。
本発明は、包水性ポリマーを含有することを特徴としており、本発明でいう包水性ポリマーとは、水分を吸収して膨潤する性質を有するポリマーの総称であり、例えば、アクリル酸塩に親水性部分を導入した形態のものが知られている。具体的には、デンプン・アクリル酸ナトリウムブロックポリマーが好ましく例示できる。このような、包水性ポリマーの皮膚外用組成物中の含有量は、0.0001重量%〜1重量%が好ましく、0.0005重量%〜0.5重量%がより好ましく、0.001重量%〜0.1重量%が特に好ましい。0.0001重量%以下では、十分な保湿効果を得ることが難しく、1重量%を超えて配合しても配合量に応じた保湿効果の向上も見られず、ベトツキ感が生じてしまう。また、デンプン・アクリル酸ナトリウムブロックポリマーは、既に市販されているものが存在し、この様な市販品を使用することができる。市販品の内、好ましいものとして、三洋化成工業株式会社製のサンフレッシュST−100Pが例示できる。
ベタイン類としては、アミノ酸のN−トリアルキル置換体などが挙げられる。例えば、グリシンベタイン、ベータ−アラニンベタイン 、カルニチン、ホモセリンベタイン 、バリンベタイン 、リジンベタイン 、オルニチンベタイン 、アラニンベタイン 、タウロベタイン 、スタキドリン、グルタミン酸ベタイン 、フェニルアラニンベタインが挙げられる。これらのうち、グリシンベタイン であるトリメチルグリシンが特に有効である。トリメチルグリシンは砂糖大根、綿実等多くの植物体中に存在しており、通常はビート糖の製造工程で生じる糖蜜より抽出され、アミノコート(旭フーズ社製)、アクアデュー(味の素社製)として上市されている。本発明ではトリメチルグリシン等のベタイン類の配合量は0.05〜1重量%が好ましい。0.05重量%未満では十分な保湿効果を得ることが難しく、1重量%を越えて配合しても配合量に応じた保湿効果の向上は見られない。
下記に示す処方に従って、本発明の皮膚外用組成物である乳液を作成した。すなわち、(A)の各成分を混合し75℃で加熱溶解した。一方(B)の各成分を混合溶解して75℃に加熱した。(A)の混合物に(B)を加えて撹拌して乳化させた。その後75℃に加熱した(C)の混合物、さらに(D)の混合物を添加し、室温まで撹拌、冷却し、乳液を得た。さらに、実施例1の乳液のうち、2−メタクリロイルオキシエチルホスホリルコリン・メタクリル酸ブチル共重合体を水に置換した比較例(1)、デンプン・アクリル酸ブロックポリマーを水に置換した比較例(2)、トリメチルグリシンを水に置換した比較例(3)も同時に調整した。
ステアリン酸 0.24重量%
モノステアリン酸ソルビタン 0.5 重量%
セタノール 0.5 重量%
POE(45)−ステアリン酸エステル 0.7 重量%
パルミチン酸セチル 0.25重量%
ワセリン 3.75重量%
流動パラフィン 0.9 重量%
固形パラフィン 1.6 重量%
(B)
PEG4000 2.25重量%
1、3−BG 3.0 重量%
パラオキシ安息香酸メチル 0.3 重量%
グリセリン 3.0 重量%
キサンタンガム 0.025重量%
アルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマー 0.15重量%
(商品名「カーボポール1382」BFGoodrich社製)
純水 40.0 重量%
(C)
トリエタノールアミン 0.15重量%
純水 5.0 重量%
(D)
2−メタクリロイルオキシエチルホスホリルコリン・メタクリル酸ブチル共重合体
(商品名「Lipidure−PMB」日本油脂製) 0.1 重量%
(2−メタクリロイルオキシエチルホスホリルコリン・
メタクリル酸ブチル共重合体として、0.005重量%)
デンプン・アクリル酸ブロックポリマー 0.012重量%
(商品名「サンフレッシュST100SP」三洋化成製)
トリメチルグリシン 0.10 重量%
純水 37.473重量%
ステアリン酸 0.24重量%
モノステアリン酸ソルビタン 0.5 重量%
セタノール 0.5 重量%
POE(45)−ステアリン酸エステル 0.7 重量%
パルミチン酸セチル 0.25重量%
ワセリン 3.75重量%
流動パラフィン 0.9 重量%
固形パラフィン 1.6 重量%
(B)
PEG4000 2.25重量%
1、3−BG 3.0 重量%
パラオキシ安息香酸メチル 0.3 重量%
グリセリン 3.0 重量%
キサンタンガム 0.025重量%
アルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマー 0.15重量%
(商品名「カーボポール1382」BFGoodrich社製)
純水 40.0 重量%
(C)
トリエタノールアミン 0.15重量%
純水 5.0 重量%
(D)2−メタクリロイルオキシエチルホスホリルコリン・メタクリル酸ブチル共重合体
(商品名「Lipidure−PMB」日本油脂製) 2.0 重量%
(2−メタクリロイルオキシエチルホスホリルコリン・
メタクリル酸ブチル共重合体として、0.1重量%)
純水 35.685重量%
試験は、5名のパネラーを対象として、20℃、相対湿度50%の部屋で実施した。測定部位を37℃の温水で30秒間洗浄し、20分間安静にし、その後、測定を行った。前腕内側部の皮膚を対象として、試験予定日の前日(−1日)に予め試験予定部位の皮膚水分量をSKICON−200EX(IBS社製)にて測定しておく。その後、5%濃度のラウリル硫酸ナトリウム水溶液を含浸させたガーゼ(2cm×2cm)を30分間接触させた。翌日(0日)SKICON−200EXにて、皮膚水分量を測定、その後、実施例1で作成した試験サンプル(乳液、比較例(1)、比較例(2)、比較例(3))及び実施例2で作成した比較例(4)を塗布した。試験サンプルの塗布は、一日3回実施した。塗布1日後、2日後に再度皮膚水分量を測定した。同時に、試験サンプルの塗布を行わない未処置対照の試験も実施した。評価結果を図1に示した。この試験に際して、試験部位における試験サンプル塗布時の使用感に関してもアンケートを行った(結果は5名の平均値とした)。評価結果を表1に示した。
(使用感の評価基準)
1:ベタツキ感を感じない
2:ベタツキ感をやや感じる
3:ベタツキ感を感じる
4:ベタツキ感をかなり感じる
スライドガラス上に実施例1で作成した試験サンプル(乳液、比較例(1)、比較例(2)、比較例(3)、比較例(4))0.1mlを1.2cmφの面積に塗布し、40℃、相対湿度30%で一時間乾燥し、試験膜を作成した。この試験膜の粘着性をハンディー圧着試験器KES−G5((株)カトーテック製)を用いて評価した。粘着性は装置のヘッドを塗布膜から引き剥がす際の粘着力(g)で表した。すなわち、この値が高いほど塗布膜の粘着性が高いことを表している。結果を表1に示した。
下記に示す処方に従って水中油クリームを作製した。すなわち、(A)の各成分を混合し、80℃に加熱した。一方、(B)の各成分を混合し80℃に加熱した。(A)の混合物に、(B)の混合物を加えて撹拌して乳化させ、その後室温まで冷却した。
POE(30)セチルエーテル 2.0 重量%
グリセリンモノステアレート 10.0 重量%
流動パラフィン 10.0 重量%
ワセリン 4.0 重量%
セタノール 5.0 重量%
γ−トコフェロール 0.05重量%
BHT 0.01重量%
ブチルパラベン 0.1 重量%
(B)
1,3−ブタンジオール 10.0 重量%
2−メタクリロイルオキシエチルホスホリルコリン・メタクリル酸ブチル共重合体
(商品名「Lipidure−PMB」日本油脂製) 0.3 重量%
(2−メタクリロイルオキシエチルホスホリルコリン・
メタクリル酸ブチル共重合体として、0.015重量%)
デンプン・アクリル酸ブロックポリマー 0.1 重量%
(商品名「サンフレッシュST100SP」三洋化成製)
トリメチルグリシン 0.3 重量%
アルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマー 0.15重量%
(商品名「PEMULEN TR−1」BFGoodrich社製)
精製水 57.99重量%
下記に示す処方に従ってローションを作製した。すなわち、(A)の各成分を混合し、室温で溶解した。一方、(B)の各成分を混合し室温で加熱した。(A)の混合物に、(B)の混合物を加えて、撹拌して可溶化させた。
POE(20)ソルビタンモノラウリン酸エステル 1.5 重量%
POE(20)ラウリルエステル 0.5 重量%
エタノール 10.0 重量%
γ−トコフェロール 0.02重量%
ブチルパラベン 0.1 重量%
(B)
グリセリン 5.0 重量%
1,3−ブタンジオール 4.0 重量%
2−メタクリロイルオキシエチルホスホリルコリン重合体 0.01 重量%
(商品名「Lipidure−HM」日本油脂製)
(2−メタクリロイルオキシエチルホスホリルコリン重合体として、
0.0005重量%)
デンプン・アクリル酸ブロックポリマー 0.001重量%
(商品名「サンフレッシュST100SP」三洋化成製)
トリメチルグリシン 0.05重量%
アルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマー 0.05重量%
(商品名「PEMULEN TR−1」BFGoodrich社製)
純水 78.769重量%
Claims (4)
- 1)2−メタクリロイルオキシエチルホスホリルコリンを構成モノマーとする重合体乃至は共重合体、及び2)少なくともデンプン・アクリル酸ブロック重合体及び/又はその塩を含有する包水性ポリマーを含有する皮膚外用組成物。
- 2−メタクリロイルオキシエチルホスホリルコリンを構成モノマーとする重合体乃至は共重合体の含有量が0.0001質量%〜5質量%であることを特徴とする、請求項1に記載の皮膚外用組成物。
- さらに、ベタイン類を含有することを特徴とする、請求項1乃至2項に記載の皮膚外用組成物。
- ベタイン類の含有量が0.001質量%〜10質量%であることを特徴とする、請求項3に記載の皮膚外用組成物。
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