WO2021131610A1 - パイル布帛、及びその製造方法 - Google Patents

パイル布帛、及びその製造方法 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021131610A1
WO2021131610A1 PCT/JP2020/045222 JP2020045222W WO2021131610A1 WO 2021131610 A1 WO2021131610 A1 WO 2021131610A1 JP 2020045222 W JP2020045222 W JP 2020045222W WO 2021131610 A1 WO2021131610 A1 WO 2021131610A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
pile
pile portion
crimp
fiber
temperature
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/JP2020/045222
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English (en)
French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
平井悠佑
田岡伸崇
新林寛之
徳本裕幸
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Kaneka Corp
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Kaneka Corp
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Kaneka Corp filed Critical Kaneka Corp
Priority to CN202080040301.0A priority Critical patent/CN113906175B/zh
Priority to JP2021567155A priority patent/JP7606982B2/ja
Priority to EP20908275.9A priority patent/EP4083285B1/en
Publication of WO2021131610A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021131610A1/ja
Priority to US17/720,637 priority patent/US12286732B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • D04B1/04—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/253—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a non-circular cross section; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
    • D02J13/00—Heating or cooling the yarn, thread, cord, rope, or the like, not specific to any one of the processes provided for in this subclass
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • D04B1/025—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features incorporating loose fibres, e.g. high-pile fabrics or artificial fur
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C15/00—Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/0002—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate
    • D06N3/0009—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate using knitted fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/007—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by mechanical or physical treatments
    • D06N3/0077—Embossing; Pressing of the surface; Tumbling and crumbling; Cracking; Cooling; Heating, e.g. mirror finish
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/04—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06N3/042—Acrylic polymers
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/12—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins
    • D06N3/14—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins with polyurethanes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated nitriles, e.g. polyacrylonitrile, polyvinylidene cyanide
    • D10B2321/101—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated nitriles, e.g. polyacrylonitrile, polyvinylidene cyanide modacrylic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
    • D10B2501/044—Fur garments; Garments of fur substitutes

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a pile fabric using polyester fibers and a method for producing the same.
  • Pile fabrics of artificial fur have traditionally been required to have the same texture and luster as natural furs.
  • polyester fibers are excellent in elasticity and low cold settability, their application to pile fabrics is being studied.
  • Cold set means that when stored in a deformed state, the shape is fixed in the deformed state at room temperature. In the case of pile fabric, if it is compressed and packed during transportation or the like, the shape at the time of packing is fixed, and it may be difficult to return to the texture before packing, so that low cold settability is required.
  • polyester fibers have excellent low cold set properties, even if they are compressed and packed, the fur is not easily disturbed and the commercial value is not significantly impaired.
  • the polishing treatment at the time of producing the pile fabric is insufficient at the polishing temperature of the acrylic fiber which is usually used, and polyester.
  • the crimps of the system fibers are not sufficiently removed, and the pile fibers are entangled with each other to give a rugged feel, and further, hair cracks occur, and both the feel and appearance are different from those of natural fur.
  • Patent Document 1 proposes to improve the crimp removability of polyester fibers by adjusting the fiber cross section, fineness, fiber length, number of crimps, crimp rate, crimp fastness, and the like. ..
  • Patent Document 2 in the silk reeling process, crimping is applied after heat treatment at 160 to 230 ° C. under a limited shrinkage condition of 1 to 7%, thereby improving the crimp removal property in the polishing treatment of polyester fibers. It has been proposed to improve.
  • the present invention is a pile fabric having a long pile portion and a short pile portion, having a good appearance, a voluminous feel, and a packing recoverability, and further having excellent crimp removal property. And a method for producing the same.
  • the present invention is a pile fabric in which the difference between the average length of the long pile portion and the average length of the short pile portion is 2 mm or more in one or more embodiments, and the long pile portion and the short pile portion are 60, respectively.
  • the crimp removal temperature of the polyester fiber used for the long pile portion is lower than the crimp removal temperature of the polyester fiber used for the short pile portion, and the short pile portion contains the polyester fiber having a crimp of% by weight or more.
  • the present invention relates to a pile fabric characterized in that the crimp removal temperature of the polyester fiber used for the part is 90 ° C. or higher and 120 ° C. or lower, and the crimp removal temperature is the lowest temperature satisfying the following mathematical formula (1).
  • A is a state in which a fiber bundle of polyester fibers used for the short pile portion is subjected to a dry heat treatment at a predetermined temperature for 60 seconds with a load of 4 mg per dtex applied, and then a load of 4 mg per dtex is applied.
  • B is the length of the fiber bundle when the load is removed after the fiber bundle of polyester fibers used for the short pile portion is subjected to dry heat treatment at a predetermined temperature for 60 seconds with a load of 4 mg per dtex applied. Is shown.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for producing a pile fabric according to one or more embodiments, wherein the pile fabric is polished at a temperature of 90 ° C. or higher and 160 ° C. or lower.
  • a pile fabric having a long pile portion and a short pile portion, having a good appearance, a voluminous feel, and a packing recoverability, and further having excellent crimp removal property is provided. can do.
  • FIG. 1 is an explanatory diagram for explaining the appearance evaluation criteria of the pile fabric.
  • the present inventors have made a pile fabric containing a long pile portion and a short pile portion as a main component of fibers constituting each of the long pile portion and the short pile portion. It has been found that by using polyester fibers and appropriately adjusting the crimp removability of the polyester fibers, a pile fabric having excellent tactile sensation, volume feeling, and packing recovery property can be obtained.
  • polyester fiber when simply described as “polyester fiber”, it means both polyester fiber in the long pile portion and the short pile portion. Further, when the term “polyester fiber in the long pile portion” or “polyester fiber in the short pile portion” is described, it means the polyester fiber in each of the long pile portion and the short pile portion.
  • the long pile portion and the short pile portion of the pile fabric each contain polyester fibers having a crimp of 60% by weight or more.
  • the pile portion refers to a napped portion excluding the base fabric (also referred to as the ground structure) portion of the pile fabric.
  • each of the long pile portion and the short pile portion contains 60% by weight or more of polyester fibers, preferably 70% by weight or more, and 80% by weight, respectively. It is more preferable to contain the above.
  • the fibers constituting the pile portion will also be referred to as pile fibers.
  • the pile fabric includes a long pile portion and a short pile portion having different pile lengths, and the difference between the average pile length of the long pile portion and the average pile length of the short pile portion is 2 mm or more. This makes it possible to realize a two-layer structure similar to natural fur.
  • the difference between the average pile length of the long pile portion and the average pile length of the short pile portion is preferably 5 mm or more and 50 mm or less.
  • the pile fabric may further include a medium pile portion in addition to the long pile portion and the short pile portion.
  • a medium pile portion By including the middle pile portion, it is possible to give an appearance closer to that of natural fur.
  • the difference in the average pile length between the long pile portion and the short pile portion may be 2 mm or more, but in order to obtain a clearer appearance of the two-layer structure, it may be 5 mm or more and 50 mm or less. It is preferably 10 mm or more and 50 mm or less, more preferably.
  • the middle pile portion also preferably contains the polyester fiber in an amount of 60% by weight or more, more preferably 70% by weight or more, and 80% by weight or more of the entire pile portion. Is even more preferable.
  • the average pile length is defined as the fibers constituting the pile portion of the pile fabric standing vertically so that the furs are aligned, and the fibers constituting the pile portion in each pile portion.
  • the length from the root of the pile (the root of the surface of the pile fabric) to the tip of the pile was measured at 10 points and expressed as the average value.
  • the pile portion having the longest average pile length becomes the long pile portion, and the pile portion having the lowest average pile length becomes the short pile portion. ..
  • the "pile portions having different pile lengths" mean that the difference in the average pile lengths of the pile portions is 2 mm or more.
  • the pile portion may contain other fibers, for example, acrylic fibers, vinyl chloride fibers, etc., in addition to the polyester fibers.
  • the long pile portion preferably contains an acrylic fiber composed of an acrylic copolymer containing 35% by weight or more and less than 95% by weight of acrylonitrile.
  • the long pile portion may contain 60% by weight or more and 100% by weight or less of polyester fibers, 40% by weight or less of acrylic fibers, and 70% by weight or more and 100% by weight of polyester fibers. % Or less, acrylic fibers may be contained in an amount of 30% by weight or less, polyester fibers may be contained in an amount of 80% by weight or more and 100% by weight or less, and acrylic fibers may be contained in an amount of 20% by weight or less.
  • the acrylic copolymer preferably contains 5% by weight or more and 65% by weight or less of other monomers copolymerizable with acrylonitrile in addition to acrylonitrile.
  • the other monomer is not particularly limited, but for example, it is preferable to use one or more monomers selected from the group consisting of metal salts of vinyl halide, vinylidene halide and sulfonic acid-containing monomers, and vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride and the like. It is more preferable to use one or more monomers selected from the group consisting of sodium styrene sulfonate.
  • the pile fabric can be produced by the same manufacturing method as a normal pile fabric except that the pile fabric is polished at a temperature of 90 ° C. or higher and 160 ° C. or lower.
  • a sliver composed of pile fibers is knitted into a pile fabric (sometimes referred to as a knitted fabric) with a sliver knitting machine, pre-polished at a temperature of 90 ° C. or higher and 160 ° C. or lower, and then 90 ° C.
  • the crimp is removed by polishing at a temperature of 160 ° C. or lower. Polishing may be performed multiple times at different temperatures.
  • a backing resin may be coated on the back surface (opposite surface of the napped portion) of the pile fabric in order to prevent hair loss and squeeze out the pile fibers.
  • a backing resin an acrylic acid ester adhesive, a polyurethane adhesive, or the like can be used. Further, if necessary, pressure and shirring may be performed as appropriate.
  • the polyester-based resin constituting the polyester-based fiber is not particularly limited, and for example, a copolymerized polyester mainly composed of polyalkylene terephthalate and / or polyalkylene terephthalate can be used.
  • the polyalkylene terephthalate is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate. Of these, polyethylene terephthalate is preferable from the viewpoint of thermal characteristics.
  • the copolymerized polyester mainly containing polyalkylene terephthalate is not particularly limited, and for example, polyalkylene terephthalate such as polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate is mainly used, and other copolymerization components are used. Examples thereof include copolymerized polyester contained therein. Among them, a copolymerized polyester mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate is preferable because the decomposition temperature (Tg) is relatively high and the handleability is excellent.
  • Tg decomposition temperature
  • the "main body” means a component contained in an amount of 50 mol% or more
  • the "copolymerized polyester mainly containing polyalkylene terephthalate” is a copolymer containing 50 mol% or more of polyalkylene terephthalate.
  • the "copolymerized polyester mainly containing polyalkylene terephthalate” contains 60 mol% or more, more preferably 70 mol% or more, still more preferably 80 mol% or more of polyalkylene terephthalate.
  • Examples of the other copolymerization components include isophthalic acid, orthophthalic acid, naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, paraphenylenedicarboxylic acid, trimellitic acid, pyromellitic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, sveric acid, and azelaic acid.
  • Polyvalent carboxylic acids such as sebacic acid and dodecanedioic acid and their derivatives, dicarboxylic acids including sulfonates such as 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and dihydroxyethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate and their derivatives, 1,2- Propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, neopentylglycol, 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, diethyleneglycol, polyethylene glycol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, 4- Examples thereof include hydroxybenzoic acid, ⁇ -caprolactone, and ethylene glycol ether of bisphenol A. These other copolymerization components may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
  • polyester containing polyalkylene terephthalate as a main component examples include, for example, ethylene glycol ether of bisphenol A, 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, isophthalic acid and dihydroxy 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate containing polyethylene terephthalate as a main component.
  • the polyalkylene terephthalate and the copolymerized polyester mainly composed of the polyalkylene terephthalate may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
  • polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, or polyethylene terephthalate is mainly used, and polyester obtained by copolymerizing ethylene glycol ether of bisphenol A, polyethylene terephthalate is mainly used, and 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol is used.
  • Copolymerized polyester polyester mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate and copolymerized with isophthalic acid, and polyester mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate and copolymerized with dihydroxyethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate, etc. should be used alone or in combination of two or more. Is preferable.
  • the intrinsic viscosity (IV value) of the polyester resin is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.3 or more and 1.2 or less, and more preferably 0.4 or more and 1.0 or less.
  • the intrinsic viscosity is 0.3 or more, the mechanical strength of the obtained fiber does not decrease.
  • the intrinsic viscosity is 1.2 or less, the molecular weight does not increase too much, the melt viscosity does not become too high, melt spinning becomes easy, and the fineness tends to be uniform.
  • additives such as a matting agent, a lubricant, an antioxidant, a coloring pigment, a stabilizer, a flame retardant, and a strengthening agent may be added to the polyester resin constituting the polyester fiber.
  • a matting agent include titanium dioxide and the like.
  • the lubricant include fine particles such as silica and alumina.
  • the cross-sectional shape of the polyester fiber is not particularly limited, and may be circular or irregular.
  • Examples of the variant include a Y-shape, a flat shape, and the like.
  • Examples of the flat shape include an elliptical shape, a rectangular shape, a flat multi-leaf shape, a constricted flat shape, and the like.
  • Examples of the constricted flat shape include a shape in which circles or ellipses are linearly connected, such as an eyebrows type, a quadruple dumpling shape, and a quintuple dumpling shape.
  • the polyester fiber preferably has a flat shape in which the length (b) of the long side of the fiber cross section is larger than the length of the short side (a) of the fiber cross section. It is more preferable that the length (b) of the long side of the cross section is twice or more the length (a) of the short side of the fiber cross section.
  • the polyester fiber is not particularly limited, but for example, from the viewpoint of enhancing the volume feeling of the pile fabric, the length (b) of the long side of the fiber cross section is 8 times or less the length (a) of the short side of the fiber cross section. It is preferably, and more preferably 6 times or less.
  • the long side of the fiber cross section is the maximum length of the fiber cross section, that is, the line segment having the maximum length among the straight lines connecting arbitrary two points on the outer circumference of the fiber cross section.
  • the short side of the fiber cross section is the maximum width of the fiber cross section, that is, the two maximum lengths when connecting arbitrary two points on the outer circumference of the fiber cross section so as to be perpendicular to the long side of the fiber cross section. It is a line segment connecting points.
  • the length (b) of the long side of the fiber cross section is the same as the length (a) of the short side of the fiber cross section.
  • Polyester fibers have crimps (also called crimps).
  • the crimp refers to a crimp imparted by a known crimping method such as a gear crimp method or a stuffing box method, and is not particularly limited.
  • the number of crimps of the polyester fiber is not particularly limited.
  • the number of crimps is preferably 5 pieces / 25 mm or more and 18 pieces / 25 mm or less, and more preferably 8 pieces / 25 mm or more and 14 pieces / 25 mm or less.
  • the number of crimps is measured according to JIS L-1015.
  • the form of the polyester fiber having crimp is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include a filament state, a staple state, and a toe state in which filaments are aggregated.
  • the polyester fiber in the short pile portion has a crimp removal temperature of 90 ° C. or higher and 120 ° C. or lower.
  • the crimp removal temperature means the minimum temperature that satisfies the following mathematical formula (1). (AB) / A ⁇ 100 ⁇ 3 (%) (1)
  • A is subjected to a dry heat treatment at a predetermined temperature for 60 seconds with a load of 4 mg per 1 dtex applied to the fiber bundle of the polyester fiber, and then a load of 4 mg per dtex is applied.
  • the specific method for measuring the crimp removal temperature is as follows. First, polyester fibers bundled so as to form a fiber bundle of 9000 dtex are trimmed at both ends of the fiber bundle so that the sample length is about 200 mm. The obtained fiber bundle is vertically suspended in a convection hot air dryer, and a weight of 36 g is suspended from the lower end of the fiber bundle (a load of 4 mg is applied per 1 dtex). In this state, heat treatment is performed at a predetermined temperature in increments of 50 ° C. to 10 ° C. for 60 seconds, and after each heat treatment, the length A of the fiber bundle under a load of 4 mg / dtex and the load are removed. The length B of the fiber bundle under no load is measured.
  • the crimp removal temperature is the lowest temperature that satisfies the above formula (1).
  • the crimp removal temperature of the polyester fiber in the short pile portion is 90 ° C. or higher and 120 ° C. or lower.
  • the polyester fiber in the short pile portion is moderately crimped in a relatively low temperature range of 90 ° C. or higher and 160 ° C. or lower in the polishing step, which is one of the pile fabric processing steps. Is easy to remove only the crimping of the fluffy surface layer portion of the pile fabric, and therefore, it is possible to obtain a pile fabric having a good appearance and an excellent voluminous feel.
  • the crimp removal temperature exceeds 120 ° C, the crimp removal is insufficient by the polishing treatment at a low temperature of 90 ° C or higher and 160 ° C or lower, and the crimp of the pile fiber is hardly removed, and the pile looks and feels poor. It becomes a cloth.
  • the crimp removal temperature of the polyester fiber in the short pile portion is lower than 90 ° C., the crimp of the pile fiber is almost completely removed by the polishing treatment at a low temperature of 90 ° C. or higher and 160 ° C. or lower. , The pile fabric lacks volume.
  • the polyester fiber of the short pile part is filled in the pressure resistant container together with pure water while applying a pressure of 3 kPa or more and 20 kPa or less and treated with hot water at 98 ° C. for 60 minutes, the polyester fiber after the hot water treatment
  • the crimp removal temperature of is preferably 90 ° C. or higher and 120 ° C. or lower. If the crimp removal temperature of the polyester fiber is 90 ° C. or higher and 120 ° C. or lower even after hot water treatment, the temperature is 90 ° C. or higher and 160 ° C. or lower even after undergoing steps such as dyeing under hot water conditions.
  • the crimps are removed moderately, specifically, only the crimps on the fluffy surface layer of the pile fabric are easily removed, and therefore, it is possible to obtain a pile fabric having a good appearance and an excellent voluminous feel. it can.
  • the polyester fiber in the short pile portion is not particularly limited, but for example, the single fiber fineness is preferably 12 dtex or less, more preferably 10 dtex or less, still more preferably 7 dtex or less, and particularly preferably 5 dtex or less.
  • the single fiber fineness exceeds 12 dtex, heat transfer becomes insufficient in the polishing treatment, and it may be required to increase the number of times of polishing in order to properly remove the crimps.
  • the soft texture may be impaired by increasing the number of times of polishing.
  • the polyester fiber in the short pile portion is not particularly limited, but from the viewpoint of hair handling property, the single fiber fineness is preferably 1 dtex or more.
  • the other fibers also preferably have a single fiber fineness of 12 dtex or less, more preferably 10 dtex or less, from the viewpoint of texture and crimp removal property. , More preferably 7 dtex or less, and particularly preferably 5 dtex or less. Further, it is preferable that the other fibers also have a single fiber fineness of 1 dtex or more from the viewpoint of hair handling property.
  • the drawn yarn Before the step, after the crimping step, or before and after the crimping step, the drawn yarn is heat-treated at a temperature of 25 ° C. or higher and 120 ° C. or lower; or before the crimping step. Normal except that the drawn yarn is heat-treated at a temperature of 100 ° C. or higher and 200 ° C. or lower, and the drawn yarn is heat-treated at a temperature of 25 ° C. or higher and 140 ° C. or lower after the crimping step. It can be produced by the same production method as that of polyester fibers.
  • Before the crimping process refers to the period from the end of the polyester fiber drawing process to the start of the process of applying the crimp, and "after the crimping process” is the process of applying the crimp. Refers to the period from the end of the process to the final acquisition of a polyester-based fiber having crimp. For example, if "the drawn yarn is heat-treated at 100 ° C. after the crimp-imparting step", the heat treatment at 100 ° C. is a polyester-based material that finally has crimps from the end of the crimp-giving step. It is done until the fiber is obtained. Before and after the crimping step, steps other than the heat treatment step, for example, an oil coating step, a constant length cutting step, a rewinding step, and the like may be included.
  • the drawn yarn is not heat-treated, or before the crimping step, before the crimping step.
  • the drawn yarn is not heat-treated, or before the crimping step, before the crimping step.
  • the crimps are moderately removed in the polishing step at a low temperature of 90 ° C. or higher and 160 ° C. or lower in the pile cloth processing step, and specifically, only the crimps on the fluffy surface layer of the pile cloth are easily removed, and therefore the appearance. Is good, and a pile fabric having an excellent voluminous feel can be obtained.
  • the drawn yarn is heat-treated at a temperature of 25 ° C. or higher and 120 ° C. or lower after the crimping step. It is preferable to carry out the heat treatment, more preferably heat treatment at a temperature of 60 ° C. or higher and 110 ° C. or lower, and further preferably heat treatment at a temperature of 80 ° C. or higher and 110 ° C. or lower.
  • the heat treatment time is not particularly limited, but may be, for example, 10 minutes or more and 50 minutes or less.
  • the heat treatment after the crimping step is preferably performed at a temperature of 60 ° C. or higher and 110 ° C.
  • the drawn yarn is heat-treated before and after the crimping applying step
  • the drawn yarn is heat-treated at a temperature of 100 ° C. or more and 200 ° C. or less before the crimping applying step, and the crimping applying step is performed.
  • the drawn yarn may be heat-treated at a temperature of 25 ° C. or higher and 140 ° C. or lower.
  • the drawn yarn is heat-treated at a temperature of preferably 100 ° C. or higher and 170 ° C. or lower, more preferably 100 ° C. or higher and 150 ° C. or lower.
  • the heat treatment is preferably performed at 25 ° C.
  • the time of the heat treatment is not particularly limited, but before the crimping step, it may be, for example, 10 seconds or more and 5 minutes or less, 20 seconds or more and 4 minutes or less, and after the crimping step. May be, for example, 5 minutes or more and 40 minutes or less, or 10 minutes or more and 30 minutes or less.
  • the obtained polyester fiber tends to have a crimp removal temperature of 90 ° C. or higher and 120 ° C. or lower even after hot water treatment. Even after undergoing steps such as dyeing under hot water conditions, the crimps are moderately removed in the polishing step at a low temperature of 90 ° C. or higher and 160 ° C. or lower. Is easily removed, and therefore, a pile fabric having a good appearance and an excellent voluminous feel can be obtained.
  • the heat treatment may be a dry heat treatment or a wet heat treatment. Dry heat treatment is preferable because the process is simple. For example, dry heat treatment can be performed using a soaking air dryer, a suction type dryer, or the like.
  • the heat treatment may be performed in a relaxed state, and the relaxation rate is not particularly limited, but may be, for example, 20% or less.
  • the polyester fiber in the long pile portion has a lower crimp removal temperature than the polyester fiber in the short pile portion.
  • the long pile portion is located on the outer layer (surface layer) of the pile fabric and comes into direct contact with human skin, which further affects the tactile sensation. For this reason, if the crimp of the long pile portion remains, the feel becomes stiff. On the other hand, the influence on the volume feeling of the pile fabric tends to be smaller than that of the short pile portion. For this reason, the crimp-removability of the polyester fiber in the long pile portion needs to be higher than that in the polyester fiber in the short pile portion. In other words, the crimp removal temperature of the polyester fiber in the long pile portion needs to be lower than that in the polyester fiber in the short pile portion.
  • the polyester fiber in the long pile portion preferably has a crimp removal temperature of 110 ° C. or lower, more preferably 90 ° C. or lower.
  • the difference between the crimp removal temperature of the polyester fiber in the long pile portion and the crimp removal temperature of the polyester fiber in the short pile portion is preferably 10 ° C. or higher, for example.
  • the polyester fiber of the long pile part is filled in a pressure resistant container together with pure water while applying a pressure of 3 kPa or more and 20 kPa or less and treated with hot water at 98 ° C. for 60 minutes, the polyester fiber after the hot water treatment
  • the crimp removal temperature is preferably less than 120 ° C, more preferably 110 ° C or lower, and even more preferably 90 ° C or lower.
  • the polyester fiber in the long pile portion may be in a relatively low temperature range of 90 ° C. or higher and 160 ° C. or lower in the polishing step.
  • the crimps are removed, and a pile fabric having a good appearance and feel can be obtained.
  • the crimp removal temperature is 120 ° C. or higher, the crimp removal is insufficient by the polishing treatment at a low temperature of 90 ° C. or higher and 160 ° C. or lower, and the crimp of the pile fiber is hardly removed, and the appearance and feel are poor. It becomes a pile fabric.
  • the polyester fiber is not particularly limited, but for example, from the viewpoint of easily expressing the appearance of a two-layer structure similar to natural fur, the single fiber fineness is preferably 10 dtex or more and 50 dtex or less, more preferably. Is 15 dtex or more and 40 dtex or less.
  • the other fibers also have a single fiber fineness of 10 dtex or more and 50 dtex or less from the viewpoint of easily expressing the appearance of a two-layer structure similar to natural fur. It is preferable, and more preferably 15 dtex or more and 40 dtex or less.
  • polyester fibers having a crimp removal temperature of 120 ° C. or lower can be used for the middle pile portion.
  • the polyester fiber is not particularly limited except for the above-mentioned process, and can be produced by the same manufacturing method as that of a normal polyester fiber.
  • a polyester-based resin or a polyester-based resin composition in which a polyester-based resin and an additive are dry-blended is melt-kneaded using various general kneaders to pelletize, and then melt-spun. Can be done.
  • melt spinning the temperature of the extruder, gear pump, mouthpiece, etc. (spinning temperature) is set to 250 ° C or higher and 300 ° C or lower, melt spinning is performed, and the spun yarn is passed through a heating cylinder, and then the glass transition point of the polyester resin.
  • a spun yarn (undrawn yarn) is obtained by cooling below and taking up at a speed of 50 m / min or more and 4500 m / min or less.
  • the spun yarn (undrawn yarn) can be stretched by thermal stretching.
  • a heating roller, a heat plate, a steam jet device, a hot water tank and the like can be used, and these can be used in combination as appropriate.
  • the crimping can be performed by a known crimping device such as a gear crimper or a stuffing box type crimper.
  • crimping can be performed in a state where the polyester fiber is preheated to a softening temperature or higher.
  • the preheating can be performed by moist heat, for example, steam of 85 ° C. or higher and 110 ° C. or lower, as in the case of normal crimping.
  • the Young's modulus of the polyester fiber is preferably 4.0 GPa or more, and more preferably 5.0 GPa or more. This is because the higher the Young's modulus, the higher the rigidity of the fiber, and the better the volume feeling of the pile fabric.
  • the pile fabric has a short pile portion of 50% by weight or more and 95% by weight or less of the entire pile portion, and a long pile portion from the viewpoint of further improving the appearance, volume, and packing recovery. Is preferably 5% by weight or more and 50% by weight or less of the entire pile portion, the short pile portion is 60% by weight or more and 80% by weight or less of the entire pile portion, and the long pile portion is 20% by weight or more and 40% by weight of the entire pile portion. It is more preferable to contain% or less.
  • the pile fabric has a short pile portion of 50% by weight or more and 95% by weight or less of the entire pile portion, and a medium pile portion from the viewpoint of further improving the appearance, volume, and packing recovery.
  • the entire pile portion may contain 30% by weight or less
  • the long pile portion may contain 5% by weight or more and 50% by weight or less of the entire pile portion
  • the short pile portion may contain 60% by weight or more and 80% by weight or less of the entire pile portion
  • the middle pile portion may include the middle pile portion.
  • 30% by weight or less of the entire pile and a long pile portion may be contained in an amount of 20% by weight or more and 40% by weight or less of the entire pile portion.
  • the polyester fibers bundled so as to form a fiber bundle of 9000 dtex were trimmed at both ends of the fiber bundle so that the sample length was about 200 mm.
  • the obtained fiber bundle was hung vertically in a convection hot air dryer, and a weight of 36 g was hung at the lower end of the fiber bundle (a load of 4 mg was applied per 1 dtex).
  • heat treatment is performed at a predetermined temperature in increments of 50 ° C. to 10 ° C. for 60 seconds, and after each heat treatment, the length A of the fiber bundle under a load of 4 mg / dtex and the load are removed.
  • the length B of the fiber bundle under no load was measured.
  • the crimp removal temperature is the lowest temperature that satisfies the following mathematical formula (1). (AB) / A ⁇ 100 ⁇ 3 (%) (1)
  • the crimp-removability of the pile portion of the pile fabric was sensory-evaluated according to the following five criteria.
  • the standard of the crimp removability is 3, the crimp of only the fluffy surface layer portion of the pile fabric is removed.
  • the short pile portion preferably has an appropriate amount of crimp remaining, and the crimp removability is preferably 3.
  • the long pile portion is preferably crimp-removed neatly, and the crimp-removability is preferably 5.
  • the middle pile portion is preferably 3 to 4.
  • the direction of the pile fiber is in order, and the crimp is clearly removed from the root to the tip of the pile fiber.
  • 4 The direction of the pile fibers is in order, and the crimps are clearly removed up to the middle abdomen of the pile fibers.
  • 3 The direction of the pile fiber is in order, and the crimp is removed only at the tip of the pile fiber.
  • 2 The direction of the pile fibers is in order, but the crimps are not removed at all. 1: The pile fibers are not oriented properly and the crimps are not removed at all.
  • FIG. 1 shows a reference photograph of each standard. Specifically, in FIG. 1, (a) is a reference photograph when the volume feeling is good, and (b) is a reference photograph when the volume feeling is poor.
  • Good The fluffed parts of the two pile fabrics are overlapped, and the thickness of the pile fabric when a pressure of 300 Pa is applied is about 60% or more of the thickness of the pile fabric before the pressure is applied, and the volume feeling is sufficient. .. Defective: The thickness of the pile fabric when the fluffed parts of the two pile fabrics are overlapped and a pressure of 300 Pa is applied is less than about 60% of the thickness of the pile fabric before the pressure is applied, and the volume feeling is insufficient. is there.
  • the pile fabric was observed from the surface of the napped portion (pile portion), and the sensory evaluation was performed according to the following criteria. Good: The surface of the pile fabric looks smooth. Defective: The pile fabric appears to be cracked.
  • PET fiber ⁇ Making polyester fiber (PET fiber)> (Raw cotton 1A for pile fabric) Using polyethylene terephthalate (PET; EFG-70 manufactured by Bell Polyester) having an intrinsic viscosity (IV value) of 0.75, using a spinning machine with a 5-strip comb type cross section and 150 holes. Spinning was performed at a spinning temperature of 285 ° C. and a speed of 180 m / min to obtain undrawn yarn having a single fiber fineness of 50 dtex. At this time, 2 parts by weight of titanium oxide and 0.5 part by weight of melamine-modified silica were added as a matting agent to 100 parts by weight of PET.
  • PET polyethylene terephthalate
  • IV value intrinsic viscosity
  • Raw cotton 1B for pile cloth was obtained in the same manner as raw cotton 1A for pile cloth. However, in spinning, an undrawn yarn having a single fiber fineness of 31 dtex was obtained at a winding speed of 220 m / min using a spinneret having a Y-shaped cross section with 200 holes. The draw ratio was set to 420%, the heat treatment temperature after crimping was set to 80 ° C., and finally, a pile raw cotton 1B (cut length 51 mm) having a Y-shaped cross section and a single fiber fineness of 7 dtex was obtained. The crimp removal temperature of the raw cotton 1B was 90 ° C.
  • Raw cotton 1C for pile cloth was obtained in the same manner as raw cotton 1A for pile cloth. However, a spinneret having an eyebrows-shaped cross section with 80 holes was used, and spinning was performed at a winding speed of 150 m / min. Further, PET contained 2 parts of titanium oxide, 0.5 part of modified silica, and 4 parts of a brown pigment compound. Further, the stretching ratio was set to 415%, the heat treatment temperature after stretching and before crimping was set to 180 ° C., and the heat treatment after crimping was not performed.
  • a crimped yarn having a cocoon-shaped cross section and a single fiber fineness of 35 dtex was obtained, and this was cut to 102 mm to obtain raw cotton 1C for pile fabric.
  • the crimp removal temperature of the raw cotton 1C was 80 ° C.
  • Raw cotton 1E for pile cloth was obtained in the same manner as raw cotton 1A for pile cloth. However, in spinning, an undrawn yarn having a single fiber fineness of 18 dtex was obtained at a winding speed of 400 m / min using a spinneret having a quadruple comb-shaped cross section with 150 holes. Further, the draw ratio was 400%, and the heat treatment after the crimping was applied was carried out for 15 minutes to finally obtain a pile raw cotton 1E having a quadruple dumpling cross section and a single fiber fineness of 4.5 dtex. The crimp removal temperature of the raw cotton 1E was 100 ° C.
  • the raw cotton 1F for pile cloth was obtained in the same manner as the raw cotton 1A for pile cloth. However, a spinneret having a 5-row comb-shaped cross section with 35 holes was used, and spinning was performed at a winding speed of 170 m / min. Further, 2 parts of titanium oxide and 0.5 part of modified silica were added to PET. Further, the stretching ratio was set to 510%, the heat treatment temperature after stretching and before crimping was set to 210 ° C., and the heat treatment after crimping was not performed.
  • a crimped yarn having a single fiber fineness of 35 dtex having a 5-dango type cross section was obtained, and this was cut to 102 mm to obtain 1F of raw cotton for pile fabric.
  • the crimp removal temperature of the raw cotton 1F was 80 ° C.
  • Acrylic fiber 1 The product name "Kanekaron (registered trademark) RCL” (manufactured by Kaneka Corporation, acrylic fiber, softening point 180 to 190 ° C., fineness 12dtex, cut length 76mm) was used (hereinafter, simply referred to as RCL).
  • RCL The product name "Kanekaron (registered trademark) ELP” (manufactured by Kaneka Corporation, acrylic fiber, softening point 180 to 190 ° C., fineness 27 dtex, cut length 102 mm) was used (hereinafter, simply referred to as ELP).
  • Example 1 The raw cottons 1A, 1B, and 1C for pile cloth obtained above were used in a weight ratio of 50:20:30 to prepare a sliver, and a pile cloth was prepared by a sliver knitting machine.
  • Raw cotton 1A and 1B were used as the short pile portion, and raw cotton 1C was used as the long pile portion.
  • a pre-polishing treatment was performed at 120 ° C., and the back surface of the fabric was back-coated with an acrylic ester-based adhesive to perform a squeezing treatment.
  • polishing treatment was performed 3 times at 160 ° C., 3 times at 130 ° C., and 3 times at 100 ° C. to obtain a pile fabric having a basis weight of about 1600 g / m 2.
  • Example 2 A pile fabric having a grain size of about 2000 g / m 2 was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the raw cottons 1E and 1F for pile fabrics were used at a weight ratio of 70:30. Raw cotton 1E was used as the short pile portion, and raw cotton 1F was used as the long pile portion.
  • the pile fabrics of Examples 1 and 2 using PET fibers having a predetermined crimp removal temperature in both the long pile portion and the short pile portion have crimp removability, appearance, and voluminous feel. And all of the packing recoverability was good.
  • a pile fabric in which the difference between the average pile length of the long pile portion and the average pile length of the short pile portion is 2 mm or more.
  • the long pile portion and the short pile portion each contain polyester fibers having a crimp of 60% by weight or more.
  • the crimp removal temperature of the polyester fiber used for the long pile portion is lower than the crimp removal temperature of the polyester fiber used for the short pile portion.
  • the polyester fiber used for the short pile portion has a crimp removal temperature of 90 ° C. or higher and 120 ° C. or lower.
  • the pile fabric is characterized in that the crimp removal temperature is the lowest temperature satisfying the following mathematical formula (1).
  • A is a state in which a fiber bundle of polyester fibers used for the short pile portion is subjected to a dry heat treatment at a predetermined temperature for 60 seconds with a load of 4 mg per dtex applied, and then a load of 4 mg per dtex is applied.
  • B is the length of the fiber bundle when the load is removed after the fiber bundle of polyester fibers used for the short pile portion is subjected to dry heat treatment at a predetermined temperature for 60 seconds with a load of 4 mg per dtex applied. Is shown.
  • the pile fabric contains a short pile portion of 50% by weight or more and 95% by weight or less of the entire pile portion, and a long pile portion of 5% by weight or more and 50% by weight or less of the entire pile portion [1] to [4]. ]
  • the pile fabric according to any one of. [6] The method for producing a pile fabric according to any one of [1] to [5], which comprises polishing at a temperature of 90 ° C. or higher and 160 ° C. or lower.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
PCT/JP2020/045222 2019-12-25 2020-12-04 パイル布帛、及びその製造方法 Ceased WO2021131610A1 (ja)

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CN202080040301.0A CN113906175B (zh) 2019-12-25 2020-12-04 绒头布帛及其制造方法
JP2021567155A JP7606982B2 (ja) 2019-12-25 2020-12-04 パイル布帛、及びその製造方法
EP20908275.9A EP4083285B1 (en) 2019-12-25 2020-12-04 Pile fabric and manufacturing method therefor
US17/720,637 US12286732B2 (en) 2019-12-25 2022-04-14 Pile fabric and manufacturing method therefor

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JPS60162857A (ja) 1984-02-03 1985-08-24 株式会社クラレ 獣毛調ハイパイル布帛の製造方法
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US20220235500A1 (en) 2022-07-28
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TW202130878A (zh) 2021-08-16
JPWO2021131610A1 (https=) 2021-07-01
EP4083285A4 (en) 2023-10-11
EP4083285B1 (en) 2025-01-29
US12286732B2 (en) 2025-04-29
TWI837446B (zh) 2024-04-01
CN113906175B (zh) 2022-11-04

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