EP1397547A1 - Reservestrickstoffe - Google Patents
ReservestrickstoffeInfo
- Publication number
- EP1397547A1 EP1397547A1 EP02754202A EP02754202A EP1397547A1 EP 1397547 A1 EP1397547 A1 EP 1397547A1 EP 02754202 A EP02754202 A EP 02754202A EP 02754202 A EP02754202 A EP 02754202A EP 1397547 A1 EP1397547 A1 EP 1397547A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- knitted fabric
- knitted
- fabric
- gathered
- threads
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06J—PLEATING, KILTING OR GOFFERING TEXTILE FABRICS OR WEARING APPAREL
- D06J1/00—Pleating, kilting or goffering textile fabrics or wearing apparel
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
- D06B11/0079—Local modifications of the ability of the textile material to receive the treating materials, (e.g. its dyeability)
- D06B11/0089—Local modifications of the ability of the textile material to receive the treating materials, (e.g. its dyeability) the textile material being a surface
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C23/00—Making patterns or designs on fabrics
- D06C23/04—Making patterns or designs on fabrics by shrinking, embossing, moiréing, or crêping
Definitions
- the method is to create a barrier that prevents the color from penetrating into certain areas when dyeing the fabric. Parts of the fabric are "reserved", creating a pattern.
- Physical reserve items can be knotted, sewn, stapled and laced.
- a pattern of the nutrient reserve technique that is applied to single-layer tissue is Mokume Shibori.
- the distance between the lines is regular.
- the thread start of each row is marked by a
- the fabric is gathered and pushed together
- Double knots at the thread ends which are very close to the gathering, fixed (Fig. 2 and Fig. 3).
- the fabric is wet and dyed hot or cold. It is not possible for the color to penetrate into the areas that lie within the gathering and are pressed together, this will reserve them. The rest of the fabric takes on the color. After washing out the
- Stitches are regularly distributed horizontally and vertically (Fig. 5).
- Stitches are alternately distributed every other line horizontally and vertically (Fig. 6).
- Stitches are regularly distributed horizontally and vertically with a jump (Fig. 7).
- the aim of the invention is to provide an alternative reserve method which can be implemented with machine support if possible.
- this goal is achieved by knitting a yarn into a knitted fabric for gathering the knitted fabric.
- the knitted fabric is then gathered using the yarn and fiber-treated in the gathered state.
- Fiber treatment includes the (partial) dyeing or bleaching of the knitted fabric, alternatively or additionally, the heat treating of the knitted fabric, or felting or shrinking or burning out or etching or coating.
- Step I A tear-resistant yarn is inserted in a specific pattern that was previously entered into the knitting machine.
- the yarn is not inserted as a stitch, but as a catch, i.e. H. the yarn is freely displaceable in the knitted fabric and can later be pulled out of the knitted fabric without causing a running stitch (Fig. 8 and Fig. 9).
- Step II After knitting, the fabric is gathered in which the respective ends of the inserted
- Step III The fabric is subjected to fiber treatment in the subsequent step (Fig. 12 and
- This fiber treatment can traditionally be dyeing or bleaching the fabric, but also felting, shrinking, etching, burning out, coating.
- Step IV The fixation of the thread ends is removed, e.g. B. by cutting the knots and the
- the knitting / reserve technology differs from the hand or machine feeding reserve.
- the external parts of the gathering are treated, the internal areas remain untreated.
- the pattern is formed depending on how the fabric is gathered, i.e. H. on the number and size of the folds. These are determined by the distance at which the yarn is inserted through the catch in the knitted fabric.
- the pattern options are great. The following criteria are important in order to obtain a clear pattern:
- the strength of the combined yarn should be related to the fineness of the basic knitted fabric.
- the reserve procedure can be used with any material.
- Another option is to use the reserve technology for three-dimensional patterning of knitted fabrics
- Synthetic materials are primarily suitable for this. All synthetic materials melt at a certain temperature, but below this point they can often be heated in different ways
- step III of the dye reserve substances described above the substance is then fixed with steam or dry heat. The result is shown again after opening the gathering fixation.
- a combination of both methods is also possible. It enables two- and three-dimensional patterning in one work step. It can e.g. B. a woolen yarn can be knitted with a nylon / lycra yarn. Furthermore, step I, II, III, IV are followed and the knitted fabric is dyed. The result is a two-tone patterned fabric with a slight relief structure. This results on the one hand from the felting of the wool in the (external) areas that were exposed to the hot dye bath, and on the other hand from the simultaneous heat setting of the nylon / lycra.
- the reserve knitted fabrics have the following advantages, among others:
- Patterns within the knitted fabric can be changed very individually and with little effort, e.g. For example, heat-set folds within a knitted piece can vary in their pattern and size, which otherwise makes the production of different templates necessary in the conventional pleating process.
- Fine knitted fabrics have a pattern on both the front and the back due to the coloration.
- a possible implementation of the mechanical gathering and knotting process is described below:
- the prerequisite here is the use of a melting yarn, such as. B. a synthetic fiber yarn made of polyester as an inlaid yarn.
- the inserted yarn causes loops on the left and right edges of the pattern due to the transition to the next row of patterns (Fig. 8 IV).
- the bars are then hung in a fixed frame.
- the distance between the rods should be such that the inserted yarn is tightened to some extent.
- a rake then reaches from above between the rows of the inserted yarn and pushes the fabric together from both sides (Fig. 16)
- V-shaped metal rails are attached just above the gathered fabric.
- the metal rails have the following functions:
- the gathering is thus fixed for the subsequent fiber treatment.
- the fabric and the plastic strip are clamped back into a device and pulled apart slightly. This creates a gap between the gathered fabric and the plastic bar, which enables the pattern threads to be cut through in this area without any problems.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Materials Engineering (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Coloring (AREA)
- Percussion Or Vibration Massage (AREA)
- Cookers (AREA)
- Optical Fibers, Optical Fiber Cores, And Optical Fiber Bundles (AREA)
Description
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
DE10127740 | 2001-06-08 | ||
DE10127740A DE10127740A1 (de) | 2001-06-08 | 2001-06-08 | Reservestrickstoffe |
PCT/DE2002/002163 WO2002101135A1 (de) | 2001-06-08 | 2002-06-07 | Reservestrickstoffe |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP1397547A1 true EP1397547A1 (de) | 2004-03-17 |
EP1397547B1 EP1397547B1 (de) | 2009-10-21 |
Family
ID=7687566
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP02754202A Expired - Lifetime EP1397547B1 (de) | 2001-06-08 | 2002-06-07 | Reservestrickstoffe |
Country Status (4)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP1397547B1 (de) |
AT (1) | ATE446403T1 (de) |
DE (2) | DE10127740A1 (de) |
WO (1) | WO2002101135A1 (de) |
Families Citing this family (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
IT201600127543A1 (it) | 2015-12-30 | 2018-06-16 | Gente Di Mare S R L | Procedimento per la realizzazione di una maglia senza cuciture, reversibile e bicolore. |
Family Cites Families (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
GB1484267A (en) * | 1974-11-08 | 1977-09-01 | British Trimmings Ltd | Curtain heading tape |
ES261464Y (es) * | 1981-10-27 | 1982-12-01 | Tejido de telar o de punto para cortinajes. | |
JP3150946B2 (ja) * | 1998-09-01 | 2001-03-26 | 典親 近藤 | 絞り加工を利用した絞り染め縮み衣服 |
EP1088926A3 (de) * | 1999-09-29 | 2002-08-28 | Aramido Corporation | Verfahren zur Herstellung von Kleidung der Shibori-Art |
-
2001
- 2001-06-08 DE DE10127740A patent/DE10127740A1/de not_active Withdrawn
-
2002
- 2002-06-07 AT AT02754202T patent/ATE446403T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
- 2002-06-07 DE DE50213944T patent/DE50213944D1/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2002-06-07 WO PCT/DE2002/002163 patent/WO2002101135A1/de not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2002-06-07 EP EP02754202A patent/EP1397547B1/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
---|
See references of WO02101135A1 * |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
WO2002101135A1 (de) | 2002-12-19 |
EP1397547B1 (de) | 2009-10-21 |
DE50213944D1 (en) | 2009-12-03 |
DE10127740A1 (de) | 2002-12-12 |
ATE446403T1 (de) | 2009-11-15 |
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