EP0857800B2 - Verfahren zur Herstellung eines mit Ärmeln versehenen Kleidungsstücks auf einer Zweibett-Flachstrickmaschine - Google Patents

Verfahren zur Herstellung eines mit Ärmeln versehenen Kleidungsstücks auf einer Zweibett-Flachstrickmaschine Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0857800B2
EP0857800B2 EP98100579A EP98100579A EP0857800B2 EP 0857800 B2 EP0857800 B2 EP 0857800B2 EP 98100579 A EP98100579 A EP 98100579A EP 98100579 A EP98100579 A EP 98100579A EP 0857800 B2 EP0857800 B2 EP 0857800B2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
needle bed
stitches
body part
transfer
sleeves
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP98100579A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0857800B1 (de
EP0857800A2 (de
EP0857800A3 (de
Inventor
Thomas Nonnenmacher
Henning Schmidt
Jürgen Schwenk
Achim Ulmer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Original Assignee
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Family has litigation
First worldwide family litigation filed litigation Critical https://patents.darts-ip.com/?family=7819594&utm_source=google_patent&utm_medium=platform_link&utm_campaign=public_patent_search&patent=EP0857800(B2) "Global patent litigation dataset” by Darts-ip is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Application filed by H Stoll GmbH and Co KG filed Critical H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Publication of EP0857800A2 publication Critical patent/EP0857800A2/de
Publication of EP0857800A3 publication Critical patent/EP0857800A3/de
Publication of EP0857800B1 publication Critical patent/EP0857800B1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0857800B2 publication Critical patent/EP0857800B2/de
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards

Definitions

  • the invention relates to various methods for producing a sleeved garment on a twin flat knitting machine as a complete knit.
  • the sleeves and the torso part of the garment are first made with separate yarn guides as tubular knits and then connected to a uniform knit.
  • For the design of the sleeve insert there are different possibilities, each of which significantly affects the appearance of the garment ( US-A-3,668,898 ).
  • the present invention relates to two different methods for producing different sleeve inserts, namely an obliquely inserted sleeve with obliquely to the shoulder extending connection area between the sleeve and torso part and a raglan sleeve.
  • the individual process steps are given in claims 1 to 2.
  • FIG. 1 shows a pullover 20 having a body portion 22 and two sleeves 23 and 24, wherein the connecting portions 25 and 26 between the sleeves 23 and 24 and the body portion 22 are oblique to the shoulders 27 and 28 of the pullover 20.
  • FIG. 2 a method according to the invention for producing such an oblique connection between the sleeves 23 and 24 and the body part 22 of a pullover is shown by means of a course of stitches. Again, all courses are knitted on the front and rear needle bed with the same yarn guide again.
  • the shaping of the tubular knitted fabric consisting of the body part and the attached sleeves is achieved by means of minimizing operations.
  • rows 3 to 5 there is a reduction of the trunk part and in rows 10 to 12, 17 to 19 and 24 and 26 a reduction of the sleeves.
  • the number of stitches knitted between times may vary depending on the shape of the pullover; This also applies to the number of stitches reduced per step, because the slope of the connecting area between the body part and the sleeves depends on this.
  • the ratio of the number of trunk part reductions to the number of arm reductions is 1: 3. The higher the percentage of arm reductions, the steeper the joint area between the sleeves and the body part.
  • a row of stitches on the front needle bed is formed with a first knitting system in the carriage direction from left to right with the needles A2 to A33, before a row of stitches is formed in row 2 in the opposite carriage direction and with the needles b32 to b1 on the back needle bed ,
  • the stitches A2 to A13 are subsequently transferred from the front needle bed to the back needle bed and the stitches b21 to b32 from the back needle bed to the front needle bed in row 3.
  • row 4 after a needle bed offset, all the stitches hanging on the back needle bed in the area of the needles b1 to b12 and a2 to a13 are transferred to the needles B3 to B14 and A4 to A15.
  • the stitches of the needles b3 to b10 and a4 to a11 of the rear needle bed are transferred to the needles B5 to B12 and A6 to A13 of the front needle bed and the stitches in the needles B23 to B30 and A24 to A31 of the front Transfer needle bed to needles b21 to b28 and a22 to a29 of the rear needle bed.
  • the stitches belonging to the back part of the knitting needles B5 to B12 of the front needle bed into the needles b5 to b12 of the rear needle bed and belonging to the front part of the knitting stitches of the needles a22 to a29 of the rear needle bed in the needles A22 to A29 the front needle bed umgeenfin.
  • row 19 the back stitch loops are retracted from the needles B7 to B12 of the front needle bed into the needles b7 to b12 of the rear needle bed and the stitches belonging to the front of the needles a22 to a27 from the rear needle bed into the needles A22 to A27 of the front needle bed ,
  • rows 20 to 23 again two courses are formed with the needles A8 to A27 of the front needle bed and b7 to b26 of the rear needle bed before moving into the Rows 24 through 26 again join a sleeve down process.
  • rows 1 to 26 can be repeated until the sleeves are completely connected to the body part.
  • FIG. 3 shows a second version of a pullover 30 which is formed by a body part 32 and two raglan sleeves 33 and 34.
  • the connecting portions 35 and 36 of the sleeves 33 and 34 with the body portion 32 extend obliquely from the sleeve bottoms to the neck finish 37 of the pullover 30.
  • a knitting method for forming such raglan connection portions 35 and 36 is shown in FIG.
  • the connection is achieved by reducing operations on the body and on the sleeves.
  • the rows 3 to 5 there is a reduction in the mesh size of the body part and in the rows 8 to 10 a reduction of the sleeves.
  • the rows knitted in between the changes may vary in number depending on the cut of the pullover. This also applies to the number of stitches reduced per step. The greater the difference in the number of diminished stitches between the body portion and the sleeves, the wider the minor area becomes.
  • row 1 With a first knitting system in the carriage direction from left to right with the needles A2 to A33, a row of stitches is formed over both sleeves and the trunk portion on the front needle bed. Then, in row 2 in the opposite direction of carriage with the needles b32 to b1 on the back needle bed, a course is also knitted over both sleeves and the torso part and with another knitting system in row 3 stitches of the needles A2 to A8 of the front needle bed into the needles a2 to a8 of the rear needle bed and the stitches of the needles b26 to b32 of the rear needle bed in the needles 826 to B32 of the front needle bed umgeenfin.
  • a row of stitches with the needles A4 to A31 of the front needle bed and with the needles b3 to b30 of the rear needle bed are respectively formed in rows 6 and 7 over both sleeves and the body part.
  • the stitches of the needles A4 to A6 of the front needle bed are transferred to the needles a4 to a6 of the rear needle bed and the stitches of the needles b28 to b30 of the rear needle bed to the needles B28 to B30 of the front needle bed.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
EP98100579A 1997-02-07 1998-01-15 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines mit Ärmeln versehenen Kleidungsstücks auf einer Zweibett-Flachstrickmaschine Expired - Lifetime EP0857800B2 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19704646A DE19704646B4 (de) 1997-02-07 1997-02-07 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines mit Ärmeln versehenen Kleidungsstückes auf einer Zweibett-Flachstrickmaschine
DE19704646 1997-02-07

Publications (4)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0857800A2 EP0857800A2 (de) 1998-08-12
EP0857800A3 EP0857800A3 (de) 2000-03-15
EP0857800B1 EP0857800B1 (de) 2004-04-14
EP0857800B2 true EP0857800B2 (de) 2007-12-26

Family

ID=7819594

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP98100579A Expired - Lifetime EP0857800B2 (de) 1997-02-07 1998-01-15 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines mit Ärmeln versehenen Kleidungsstücks auf einer Zweibett-Flachstrickmaschine

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US5916272A (es)
EP (1) EP0857800B2 (es)
JP (1) JP3013242B2 (es)
CN (1) CN1086750C (es)
DE (2) DE19704646B4 (es)
ES (1) ES2219791T3 (es)

Families Citing this family (24)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
TW446774B (en) * 1998-08-28 2001-07-21 Shima Seiki Mfg Knitwear knitting method
DE19924503A1 (de) * 1999-05-28 2000-11-30 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zur Herstellung von Schlauchgestricken auf einer Flachstrickmaschine
TW480299B (en) * 2000-01-26 2002-03-21 Shima Seiki Mfg Method of knitting neck portion of knit wear by weft knitting machine and the knit wear
TW538161B (en) 2000-01-31 2003-06-21 Shima Seiki Mfg Knit wear knitting method
US6658899B2 (en) * 2000-02-29 2003-12-09 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Method of knitting neck of knit wear by weft knitting machine and the knit wear
KR100610760B1 (ko) * 2000-06-05 2006-08-09 가부시키가이샤 시마세이키 세이사쿠쇼 편성포의 접합방법 및 접합된 편성포
CN1813088B (zh) * 2003-02-14 2011-12-07 株式会社岛精机制作所 针织物及针织物的编织方法
JP4344210B2 (ja) * 2003-10-08 2009-10-14 株式会社島精機製作所 ラグラン袖を有するニットウェアの編成方法およびラグラン袖を有するニットウェア
JP4374309B2 (ja) * 2004-11-29 2009-12-02 株式会社島精機製作所 横編機で編まれたニットウエアおよびその編成方法
WO2006129686A1 (ja) * 2005-06-01 2006-12-07 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. 身頃筒状部に開き部を有するニットウエアおよびその編成方法
EP1801275B1 (de) 2005-12-20 2015-10-21 H. Stoll GmbH & Co. KG Verfahren zur Herstellung eines mit Ärmeln versehenen Kleidungsstücks
CN102071525A (zh) * 2010-09-13 2011-05-25 宁波普罗蒂电脑横机有限公司 一种科学的织可穿编织技术工艺
JP5865748B2 (ja) * 2012-03-23 2016-02-17 株式会社島精機製作所 横編機による編地の編成方法
JP2014114513A (ja) * 2012-12-07 2014-06-26 Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd 筒状編地の編成方法、および筒状編地
US10368590B2 (en) 2015-11-03 2019-08-06 Nike, Inc. Flat-knit support garment for upper torso
CN105433491A (zh) * 2015-11-04 2016-03-30 南通杰克拜尼服帽有限公司 一种四平针花纹收口针织帽
US10415164B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2019-09-17 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with three-dimensional knit structures
US10912340B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2021-02-09 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US10145042B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2018-12-04 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US10179960B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2019-01-15 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US11142854B2 (en) 2018-10-03 2021-10-12 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with three-dimensional knit structures
CN112176517B (zh) * 2020-09-30 2021-11-30 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 一种提高横机全成型服装编织效率的编织方法
CN112609306B (zh) * 2020-12-10 2022-04-05 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 一种全成型横机服装的夹位结构编织方法及其夹位结构
CN114836885B (zh) * 2022-05-21 2024-05-24 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 全成型平肩圆领服装左肩部纱嘴线头带入结构的编织方法

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GB1183574A (en) * 1966-06-07 1970-03-11 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting Method
GB1265308A (es) * 1968-07-22 1972-03-01 Courtaulds Ltd
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GB1309239A (en) * 1969-06-18 1973-03-07 Courtaulds Ltd Garment and method of knitting it
BE757588A (fr) * 1969-10-31 1971-03-16 Courtaulds Ltd Procede de tricotage sur metier d'une ebauche destinee a la confection d'un vetement tricote
US3796068A (en) * 1971-04-08 1974-03-12 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting method
GB1528161A (en) * 1975-01-07 1978-10-11 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting method
DE2614283A1 (de) * 1976-04-02 1977-10-06 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zum maschinellen stricken eines einstueckigen bekleidungsstueckrohlings
GB1581530A (en) * 1976-08-24 1980-12-17 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting method
US4300365A (en) * 1978-11-20 1981-11-17 Courtaulds Limited Knitting method
JPS60194154A (ja) * 1984-03-07 1985-10-02 株式会社島精機製作所 横編機による袋編地の編成方法
ES8700343A1 (es) * 1985-11-25 1986-10-16 Picaza Azpiroz Jose Maria Proceso de tisaje de una prenda sin costuras en tricotosas rectilineas
JPH0819606B2 (ja) * 1990-08-06 1996-02-28 株式会社島精機製作所 複数キャリッジで編成される１ガーメントの編成方法
DE4027606A1 (de) * 1990-08-31 1992-03-05 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zur herstellung eines formgerechten flachgestrickes fuer ein mit aermeln versehenes kleidungsstueck
DE69232234T2 (de) * 1991-09-19 2002-06-13 Shima Seiki Mfg Verfahren zum Stricken von nahtlosen Kleidungstücken an Flachstrickmaschinen
DE4228408A1 (de) * 1992-08-26 1994-03-03 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zur Herstellung eines formgerechten, einstückigen Flachgestricks, für ein mit Ärmeln versehenes Kleidungsstück
DE4439395A1 (de) * 1994-11-04 1996-05-09 Schieber Universal Maschf Strickverfahren

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPH1161603A (ja) 1999-03-05
EP0857800B1 (de) 2004-04-14
DE19704646B4 (de) 2005-02-03
US5916272A (en) 1999-06-29
DE19704646A1 (de) 1998-08-13
JP3013242B2 (ja) 2000-02-28
CN1086750C (zh) 2002-06-26
DE59811169D1 (de) 2004-05-19
EP0857800A2 (de) 1998-08-12
CN1196414A (zh) 1998-10-21
EP0857800A3 (de) 2000-03-15
ES2219791T3 (es) 2004-12-01

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