EP0857800B2 - Method for manufacturing a garment provided with arms on a double bed flat knitting machine - Google Patents

Method for manufacturing a garment provided with arms on a double bed flat knitting machine Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0857800B2
EP0857800B2 EP98100579A EP98100579A EP0857800B2 EP 0857800 B2 EP0857800 B2 EP 0857800B2 EP 98100579 A EP98100579 A EP 98100579A EP 98100579 A EP98100579 A EP 98100579A EP 0857800 B2 EP0857800 B2 EP 0857800B2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
needle bed
stitches
body part
transfer
sleeves
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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EP98100579A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0857800A3 (en
EP0857800A2 (en
EP0857800B1 (en
Inventor
Thomas Nonnenmacher
Henning Schmidt
Jürgen Schwenk
Achim Ulmer
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H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
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H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
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Application filed by H Stoll GmbH and Co KG filed Critical H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
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Publication of EP0857800A3 publication Critical patent/EP0857800A3/en
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Publication of EP0857800B1 publication Critical patent/EP0857800B1/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards

Definitions

  • the invention relates to various methods for producing a sleeved garment on a twin flat knitting machine as a complete knit.
  • the sleeves and the torso part of the garment are first made with separate yarn guides as tubular knits and then connected to a uniform knit.
  • For the design of the sleeve insert there are different possibilities, each of which significantly affects the appearance of the garment ( US-A-3,668,898 ).
  • the present invention relates to two different methods for producing different sleeve inserts, namely an obliquely inserted sleeve with obliquely to the shoulder extending connection area between the sleeve and torso part and a raglan sleeve.
  • the individual process steps are given in claims 1 to 2.
  • FIG. 1 shows a pullover 20 having a body portion 22 and two sleeves 23 and 24, wherein the connecting portions 25 and 26 between the sleeves 23 and 24 and the body portion 22 are oblique to the shoulders 27 and 28 of the pullover 20.
  • FIG. 2 a method according to the invention for producing such an oblique connection between the sleeves 23 and 24 and the body part 22 of a pullover is shown by means of a course of stitches. Again, all courses are knitted on the front and rear needle bed with the same yarn guide again.
  • the shaping of the tubular knitted fabric consisting of the body part and the attached sleeves is achieved by means of minimizing operations.
  • rows 3 to 5 there is a reduction of the trunk part and in rows 10 to 12, 17 to 19 and 24 and 26 a reduction of the sleeves.
  • the number of stitches knitted between times may vary depending on the shape of the pullover; This also applies to the number of stitches reduced per step, because the slope of the connecting area between the body part and the sleeves depends on this.
  • the ratio of the number of trunk part reductions to the number of arm reductions is 1: 3. The higher the percentage of arm reductions, the steeper the joint area between the sleeves and the body part.
  • a row of stitches on the front needle bed is formed with a first knitting system in the carriage direction from left to right with the needles A2 to A33, before a row of stitches is formed in row 2 in the opposite carriage direction and with the needles b32 to b1 on the back needle bed ,
  • the stitches A2 to A13 are subsequently transferred from the front needle bed to the back needle bed and the stitches b21 to b32 from the back needle bed to the front needle bed in row 3.
  • row 4 after a needle bed offset, all the stitches hanging on the back needle bed in the area of the needles b1 to b12 and a2 to a13 are transferred to the needles B3 to B14 and A4 to A15.
  • the stitches of the needles b3 to b10 and a4 to a11 of the rear needle bed are transferred to the needles B5 to B12 and A6 to A13 of the front needle bed and the stitches in the needles B23 to B30 and A24 to A31 of the front Transfer needle bed to needles b21 to b28 and a22 to a29 of the rear needle bed.
  • the stitches belonging to the back part of the knitting needles B5 to B12 of the front needle bed into the needles b5 to b12 of the rear needle bed and belonging to the front part of the knitting stitches of the needles a22 to a29 of the rear needle bed in the needles A22 to A29 the front needle bed umgeenfin.
  • row 19 the back stitch loops are retracted from the needles B7 to B12 of the front needle bed into the needles b7 to b12 of the rear needle bed and the stitches belonging to the front of the needles a22 to a27 from the rear needle bed into the needles A22 to A27 of the front needle bed ,
  • rows 20 to 23 again two courses are formed with the needles A8 to A27 of the front needle bed and b7 to b26 of the rear needle bed before moving into the Rows 24 through 26 again join a sleeve down process.
  • rows 1 to 26 can be repeated until the sleeves are completely connected to the body part.
  • FIG. 3 shows a second version of a pullover 30 which is formed by a body part 32 and two raglan sleeves 33 and 34.
  • the connecting portions 35 and 36 of the sleeves 33 and 34 with the body portion 32 extend obliquely from the sleeve bottoms to the neck finish 37 of the pullover 30.
  • a knitting method for forming such raglan connection portions 35 and 36 is shown in FIG.
  • the connection is achieved by reducing operations on the body and on the sleeves.
  • the rows 3 to 5 there is a reduction in the mesh size of the body part and in the rows 8 to 10 a reduction of the sleeves.
  • the rows knitted in between the changes may vary in number depending on the cut of the pullover. This also applies to the number of stitches reduced per step. The greater the difference in the number of diminished stitches between the body portion and the sleeves, the wider the minor area becomes.
  • row 1 With a first knitting system in the carriage direction from left to right with the needles A2 to A33, a row of stitches is formed over both sleeves and the trunk portion on the front needle bed. Then, in row 2 in the opposite direction of carriage with the needles b32 to b1 on the back needle bed, a course is also knitted over both sleeves and the torso part and with another knitting system in row 3 stitches of the needles A2 to A8 of the front needle bed into the needles a2 to a8 of the rear needle bed and the stitches of the needles b26 to b32 of the rear needle bed in the needles 826 to B32 of the front needle bed umgeenfin.
  • a row of stitches with the needles A4 to A31 of the front needle bed and with the needles b3 to b30 of the rear needle bed are respectively formed in rows 6 and 7 over both sleeves and the body part.
  • the stitches of the needles A4 to A6 of the front needle bed are transferred to the needles a4 to a6 of the rear needle bed and the stitches of the needles b28 to b30 of the rear needle bed to the needles B28 to B30 of the front needle bed.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)

Description

Die Erfindung betrifft verschiedene Verfahren zur Herstellung eines mit Ärmeln versehenen Kleidungsstückes auf einer Zweibett-Flachstrickmaschine als Komplettgestrick. Hierbei werden die Ärmel und das Rumpfteil des Kleidungsstückes zunächst mit separaten Fadenführern als schlauchförmige Gestricke hergestellt und anschließend zu einem einheitlichen Gestrick verbunden. Für die Gestaltung des Ärmeleinsatzes gibt es unterschiedliche Möglichkeiten, die jeweils das Aussehen des Kleidungsstückes deutlich beeinflussen ( US-A-3 668 898 ). Vorliegende Erfindung betrifft zwei verschiedene Verfahren zur Herstellung unterschiedlicher Ärmeleinsätze, nämlich eines schräg eingesetzten Ärmels mit schräg zur Schulter verlaufendem Verbindungsbereich zwischen Ärmel und Rumpfteil sowie eines Raglanärmels. Die einzelnen Verfahrensschritte sind den Ansprüchen 1 bis 2 zu entnehmen. Allen zwei Verfahren ist gemeinsam, daß jeweils die den mit einer Masche besetzten Nadeln des einen Nadelbettes gegenüberliegenden Nadeln des anderen Nadelbettes nicht mit Maschen besetzt sind und daß nach Anbindung der Ärmel an das Rumpfteil die Ärmelanbindung und die Fertigstellung des Rumpfteiles mit einem einzigen Fadenführer erfolgt. Der Vorteil der zwei Verfahren liegt in den wenigen für die Durchführung der Minderungen notwendigen Umhängeoperationen.The invention relates to various methods for producing a sleeved garment on a twin flat knitting machine as a complete knit. Here, the sleeves and the torso part of the garment are first made with separate yarn guides as tubular knits and then connected to a uniform knit. For the design of the sleeve insert, there are different possibilities, each of which significantly affects the appearance of the garment ( US-A-3,668,898 ). The present invention relates to two different methods for producing different sleeve inserts, namely an obliquely inserted sleeve with obliquely to the shoulder extending connection area between the sleeve and torso part and a raglan sleeve. The individual process steps are given in claims 1 to 2. All two methods have in common that each occupied by a stitch needles of a needle bed opposite needles of the other needle bed are not covered with stitches and that takes place after connection of the sleeves to the torso sleeve connection and the completion of the body part with a single thread guide. The advantage of the two methods lies in the few capping operations required to perform the mitigation.

Nachfolgend werden die zwei unterschiedlichen Verfahren anhand von in der Zeichnung dargestellten Ausführungsbeispielen näher erläutert.The two different methods will be explained in more detail with reference to embodiments shown in the drawing.

Es zeigen:

Fig. 1
eine schematische Ansicht eines Pullovers mit schräg zur Schulter verlaufendem Verbindungsbereich zwischen Ärmeln und Rumpfteil;
Fig. 2
einen Maschenverlauf zur Illustration der Verbindung der Ärmel mit dem Rumpfteil des Pullovers nach Fig. 1;
Fig. 3
eine schematische Ansicht eines Pullovers mit Raglanärmeln;
Fig. 4
einen Maschenverlauf zur Illustration der Verbindung der Ärmel mit dem Rumpfteil des Pullovers nach Fig. 3.
Show it:
Fig. 1
a schematic view of a pullover with obliquely to the shoulder extending connecting portion between the sleeves and torso part;
Fig. 2
a course of stitches to illustrate the connection of the sleeves with the body part of the pullover of Fig. 1;
Fig. 3
a schematic view of a pullover with raglan sleeves;
Fig. 4
a course of stitches for illustrating the connection of the sleeves with the body part of the pullover according to FIG. 3.

Fig. 1 zeigt einen Pullover 20 mit einem Rumpfteil 22 und zwei Ärmeln 23 und 24, wobei die Verbindungsbereiche 25 und 26 zwischen den Ärmeln 23 und 24 und dem Rumpfteil 22 schräg zu den Schultern 27 und 28 des Pullovers 20 verlaufen.1 shows a pullover 20 having a body portion 22 and two sleeves 23 and 24, wherein the connecting portions 25 and 26 between the sleeves 23 and 24 and the body portion 22 are oblique to the shoulders 27 and 28 of the pullover 20.

In Fig. 2 ist anhand eines Maschenverlaufes ein erfindungsgemäßes Verfahren zur Herstellung einer solchen schräg verlaufenden Verbindung zwischen den Ärmeln 23 und 24 und dem Rumpfteil 22 eines Pullovers gezeigt. Auch hier werden wieder sämtliche Maschenreihen auf dem vorderen und hinteren Nadelbett mit demselben Fadenführer gestrickt. Die Formgebung des aus Rumpfteil und angehängten Ärmeln bestehenden Schlauchgestrickes wird durch Mindervorgänge erreicht. In den Reihen 3 bis 5 erfolgt ein Mindervorgang des Rumpfteiles und in den Reihen 10 bis 12, 17 bis 19 und 24 und 26 ein Mindervorgang der Ärmel. Die Anzahl der zwischen den Mindervorgängen gestrickten Maschenreihen kann je nach Formgebung des Pullovers variieren; dies gilt auch für die Anzahl der pro Schritt geminderten Maschen, denn hiervon hängt die Schräge des Verbindungsbereiches zwischen Rumpfteil und Ärmeln ab. Im in Fig. 4 dargestellten Beispiel ist das Verhältnis der Anzahl der Rumpfteilminderungen zur Anzahl der Ärmelminderungen 1 : 3. Je höher der Anteil an Ärmelminderungen ist, desto steiler verläuft der Verbindungsbereich zwischen den Ärmeln und dem Rumpfteil.In FIG. 2, a method according to the invention for producing such an oblique connection between the sleeves 23 and 24 and the body part 22 of a pullover is shown by means of a course of stitches. Again, all courses are knitted on the front and rear needle bed with the same yarn guide again. The shaping of the tubular knitted fabric consisting of the body part and the attached sleeves is achieved by means of minimizing operations. In rows 3 to 5 there is a reduction of the trunk part and in rows 10 to 12, 17 to 19 and 24 and 26 a reduction of the sleeves. The number of stitches knitted between times may vary depending on the shape of the pullover; This also applies to the number of stitches reduced per step, because the slope of the connecting area between the body part and the sleeves depends on this. In the example shown in FIG. 4, the ratio of the number of trunk part reductions to the number of arm reductions is 1: 3. The higher the percentage of arm reductions, the steeper the joint area between the sleeves and the body part.

In Reihe 1 wird mit einem ersten Stricksystem in Schlittenrichtung von links nach rechts mit den Nadeln A2 bis A33 eine Maschenreihe auf dem vorderen Nadelbett gebildet, bevor in Reihe 2 in entgegengesetzter Schlittenrichtung und mit den Nadeln b32 bis b1 auf dem hinteren Nadelbett eine Maschenreihe gebildet wird. Zur Minderung der Maschenanzahl des Rumpfteiles werden anschließend in Reihe 3 die Maschen A2 bis A13 vom vorderen Nadelbett auf das hintere Nadelbett und die Maschen b21 bis b32 vom hinteren Nadelbett auf das vordere Nadelbett umgehängt. In Reihe 4 werden nach einem Nadelbettenversatz sämtliche auf dem hinteren Nadelbett hängenden Maschen im Bereich der Nadeln b1 bis b12 und a2 bis a13 auf die Nadeln B3 bis B14 und A4 bis A15 umgehängt. Ebenso werden sämtliche Maschen auf dem vorderen Nadelbett im Bereich der Nadeln B21 bis B32 und A22 bis A33 auf die Nadeln b19 bis b30 und a20 bis a31 des hinteren Nadelbettes umgehängt. Nach Rückversatz der Nadelbetten werden die zum Rückenteil des Schlauchgestrickes gehörenden Maschen auf den Nadeln B3 bis B14 vom vorderen Nadelbett auf die Nadeln b3 bis b14 des hinteren Nadelbettes umgehängt und die zum Vorderteil des Schlauchgestrickes gehörenden Maschen auf den Nadeln a22 bis a31 des hinteren Nadelbettes auf die Nadeln A22 bis A31 des vorderen Nadelbettes umgehängt. Damit ist der Mindervorgang für das Rumpfteil abgeschlossen. Anschließend werden in den Reihen 6 bis 9 jeweils zwei Maschenreihen auf dem vorderen Nadelbett mit den Nadeln A4 bis A31 und auf dem hinteren Nadelbett mit den Nadeln b3 bis b30 gestrickt. Anschließend beginnt ab Reihe 10 ein erster Mindervorgang für die beiden Ärmel. Hierzu werden die Maschen in den Nadeln A4 bis A11 des vorderen Nadelbettes in die Nadeln a4 bis a11 des hinteren Nadelbettes und die Maschen in den Nadeln b23 bis b30 des hinteren Nadelbettes in die Nadeln B23 bis B30 des vorderen Nadelbettes umgehängt. In Reihe 11 werden nach einem Nadelbettenversatz die Maschen der Nadeln b3 bis b10 und a4 bis a11 des hinteren Nadelbettes in die Nadeln B5 bis B12 und A6 bis A13 des vorderen Nadelbettes umgehängt und die Maschen in den Nadeln B23 bis B30 und A24 bis A31 des vorderen Nadelbettes in die Nadeln b21 bis b28 und a22 bis a29 des hinteren Nadelbettes übertragen. In Reihe 12 werden die zum Rückenteil des Gestrickes gehörenden Maschen der Nadeln B5 bis B12 des vorderen Nadelbettes in die Nadeln b5 bis b12 des hinteren Nadelbettes und die zum Vorderteil des Gestrickes gehörenden Maschen der Nadeln a22 bis a29 des hinteren Nadelbettes in die Nadeln A22 bis A29 des vorderen Nadelbettes umgehängt. In den Reihen 13 bis 16 werden dann jeweils zwei Maschenreihen mit den Nadeln A6 bis A29 des vorderen Nadelbettes und den Nadeln b5 bis b28 des hinteren Nadelbettes gebildet. Ab Reihe 17 beginnt ein neuer Minderungsvorgang für die Ärmel. Hierzu werden die Maschen der Nadeln A6 bis A11 des vorderen Nadelbettes in die Nadeln a6 bis a11 des hinteren Nadelbettes und die Maschen in den Nadeln b23 bis b28 des hinteren Nadelbettes in die Nadeln B23 bis B28 des vorderen Nadelbettes umgehängt. Anschließend werden in Reihe 18 nach einem Nadelbettenversatz die Maschen der Nadeln b5 bis b10 und a6 bis a11 des hinteren Nadelbettes in die Nadeln B7 bis B12 und A8 bis A13 des vorderen Nadelbettes und die Maschen der Nadeln B23 bis B28 und A24 bis A29 des vorderen Nadelbettes in die Nadeln b21 bis b26 und a22 bis a27 umgehängt. Anschließend erfolgt in Reihe 19 ein Zurückhängen der Rückenteilmaschen aus den Nadeln B7 bis B12 des vorderen Nadelbettes in die Nadeln b7 bis b12 des hinteren Nadelbettes sowie der zum Vorderteil gehörenden Maschen der Nadeln a22 bis a27 vom hinteren Nadelbett in die Nadeln A22 bis A27 des vorderen Nadelbettes. In den Reihen 20 bis 23 werden wieder jeweils zwei Maschenreihen mit den Nadeln A8 bis A27 des vorderen Nadelbettes und b7 bis b26 des hinteren Nadelbettes gebildet, bevor sich in den Reihen 24 bis 26 erneut ein Minderungsvorgang für die Ärmel anschließt. Hierzu werden in Reihe 24 die Maschen der Nadeln A8 bis A11 des vorderen Nadelbettes in die Nadeln a8 bis a11 des hinteren Nadelbettes und die Maschen der Nadeln b23 bis b26 des hinteren Nadelbettes in die Nadeln B23 bis B26 des vorderen Nadelbettes umgehängt. In Reihe 25 werden nach einem Nadelbettenversatz die Maschen auf den Nadeln b7 bis b10 und a8 bis a11 des hinteren Nadelbettes auf die Nadeln B9 bis B12 und A10 bis A13 des vorderen Nadelbettes sowie die Maschen in den Nadeln B23 bis B26 und A24 bis A27 des vorderen Nadelbettes in die Nadeln b21 bis b24 und a22 bis a25 umgehängt. Anschließend erfolgt in Reihe 26 ein Zurückhängen der Rückenteilmaschen aus den Nadeln B9 bis B12 des vorderen Nadelbettes in die Nadeln b9 bis b12 des hinteren Nadelbettes und ein Zurückhängen der Vorderteilmaschen aus den Nadeln a22 bis a25 des hinteren Nadelbettes in die Nadeln A22 bis A25 des vorderen Nadelbettes. Anschließend können die Schritte der Reihen 1 bis 26 solange wiederholt werden, bis die Ärmel vollständig an das Rumpfteil angebunden sind.In series 1, a row of stitches on the front needle bed is formed with a first knitting system in the carriage direction from left to right with the needles A2 to A33, before a row of stitches is formed in row 2 in the opposite carriage direction and with the needles b32 to b1 on the back needle bed , To reduce the number of stitches of the body part, the stitches A2 to A13 are subsequently transferred from the front needle bed to the back needle bed and the stitches b21 to b32 from the back needle bed to the front needle bed in row 3. In row 4, after a needle bed offset, all the stitches hanging on the back needle bed in the area of the needles b1 to b12 and a2 to a13 are transferred to the needles B3 to B14 and A4 to A15. Likewise, all stitches on the front needle bed in the area of the needles B21 to B32 and A22 to A33 are transferred to the needles b19 to b30 and a20 to a31 of the rear needle bed. After repositioning of the needle beds belonging to the back of the hose knit stitches on the needles B3 to B14 from the front needle bed on the needles b3 to b14 of the rear needle bed and the belonging to the front of the tubular knit stitches on the needles a22 to a31 of the rear needle bed on the Needles A22 to A31 of the front needle bed are relocated. This completes the reduction process for the body part. Subsequently, two rows of stitches on the front needle bed with the needles A4 to A31 and on the rear needle bed with the needles b3 to b30 are knitted in rows 6 to 9 respectively. Then begins from row 10, a first reduction process for the two sleeves. For this purpose, the stitches in the needles A4 to A11 of the front needle bed in the needles a4 to a11 of the rear needle bed and the stitches in the needles b23 to b30 of the rear needle bed are transferred to the needles B23 to B30 of the front needle bed. In row 11, after a needle bed offset, the stitches of the needles b3 to b10 and a4 to a11 of the rear needle bed are transferred to the needles B5 to B12 and A6 to A13 of the front needle bed and the stitches in the needles B23 to B30 and A24 to A31 of the front Transfer needle bed to needles b21 to b28 and a22 to a29 of the rear needle bed. In row 12, the stitches belonging to the back part of the knitting needles B5 to B12 of the front needle bed into the needles b5 to b12 of the rear needle bed and belonging to the front part of the knitting stitches of the needles a22 to a29 of the rear needle bed in the needles A22 to A29 the front needle bed umgehängt. In the rows 13 to 16 two rows of stitches are then formed with the needles A6 to A29 of the front needle bed and the needles B5 to B28 of the rear needle bed. From row 17 begins a new reduction process for the sleeves. For this purpose, the stitches of the needles A6 to A11 of the front needle bed in the needles a6 to a11 of the rear needle bed and the stitches in the needles b23 to b28 of the rear needle bed in the needles B23 to B28 of the front needle bed are relocated. Then, in row 18 after a needle bed offset, the stitches of the needles b5 to b10 and a6 to a11 of the back needle bed into the needles B7 to B12 and A8 to A13 of the front needle bed and the stitches of the needles B23 to B28 and A24 to A29 of the front needle bed in the needles b21 to b26 and a22 to a27 umgehängt. Subsequently, in row 19, the back stitch loops are retracted from the needles B7 to B12 of the front needle bed into the needles b7 to b12 of the rear needle bed and the stitches belonging to the front of the needles a22 to a27 from the rear needle bed into the needles A22 to A27 of the front needle bed , In the rows 20 to 23 again two courses are formed with the needles A8 to A27 of the front needle bed and b7 to b26 of the rear needle bed before moving into the Rows 24 through 26 again join a sleeve down process. For this purpose, in series 24, the stitches of the needles A8 to A11 of the front needle bed in the needles a8 to a11 of the rear needle bed and the stitches of the needles b23 to b26 of the rear needle bed in the needles B23 to B26 of the front needle bed umgehängt. In row 25, after a needle bed offset, the stitches on the needles b7 to b10 and a8 to a11 of the back needle bed to the needles B9 to B12 and A10 to A13 of the front needle bed and the stitches in the needles B23 to B26 and A24 to A27 of the front Needle bed in the needles b21 to b24 and a22 to a25 umgehängt. Subsequently, in row 26, the back stitch loops are retracted from the needles B9 to B12 of the front needle bed into the needles b9 to b12 of the rear needle bed and the front stitch loops are retracted from the needles a22 to a25 of the rear needle bed into the needles A22 to A25 of the front needle bed , Subsequently, the steps of rows 1 to 26 can be repeated until the sleeves are completely connected to the body part.

Fig. 3 zeigt eine zweite Version eines Pullovers 30, der von einem Rumpfteil 32 und zwei Raglanärmeln 33 und 34 gebildet wird. Die Verbindungsbereiche 35 und 36 der Ärmel 33 und 34 mit dem Rumpfteil 32 verlaufen schräg von den Ärmelunterseiten bis zum Halsabschluß 37 des Pullovers 30. Ein Strickverfahren zur Erzeugung solcher Raglanverbindungsbereiche 35 und 36 ist in Fig. 4 dargestellt. Auch hier wird die Verbindung durch Mindervorgänge am Rumpfteil und an den Ärmeln erzielt. In den Reihen 3 bis 5 erfolgt dabei eine Minderung der Maschenzahl des Rumpfteiles und in den Reihen 8 bis 10 ein Mindervorgang der Ärmel. Die zwischen den Mindervorgängen gestrickten Reihen können je nach Schnitt des Pullovers in der Anzahl variieren. Dies gilt auch für die Anzahl der pro Schritt geminderten Maschen. Je größer der Unterschied in der Anzahl der geminderten Maschen zwischen dem Rumpfteil und den Ärmeln ist, desto breiter wird der Minderbereich.FIG. 3 shows a second version of a pullover 30 which is formed by a body part 32 and two raglan sleeves 33 and 34. The connecting portions 35 and 36 of the sleeves 33 and 34 with the body portion 32 extend obliquely from the sleeve bottoms to the neck finish 37 of the pullover 30. A knitting method for forming such raglan connection portions 35 and 36 is shown in FIG. Here, too, the connection is achieved by reducing operations on the body and on the sleeves. In the rows 3 to 5 there is a reduction in the mesh size of the body part and in the rows 8 to 10 a reduction of the sleeves. The rows knitted in between the changes may vary in number depending on the cut of the pullover. This also applies to the number of stitches reduced per step. The greater the difference in the number of diminished stitches between the body portion and the sleeves, the wider the minor area becomes.

In Reihe 1 wird mit einem ersten Stricksystem in Schlittenrichtung von links nach rechts mit den Nadeln A2 bis A33 eine Maschenreihe über beide Ärmel und das Rumpfteil auf dem vorderen Nadelbett gebildet. Anschließend wird in Reihe 2 in entgegengesetzter Schlittenrichtung mit den Nadeln b32 bis b1 auf dem hinteren Nadelbett eine Maschenreihe ebenfalls über beide Ärmel und das Rumpfteil gestrickt und mit einem weiteren Stricksystem in Reihe 3 Maschen der Nadeln A2 bis A8 des vorderen Nadelbettes in die Nadeln a2 bis a8 des hinteren Nadelbettes sowie die Maschen der Nadeln b26 bis b32 des hinteren Nadelbettes in die Nadeln 826 bis B32 des vorderen Nadelbettes umgehängt. In Reihe 4 werden nach einem Nadelbettenversatz die Maschen der Nadeln b1 bis b7 und a2 bis a8 des hinteren Nadelbettes in die Nadeln B3 bis 89 und A4 bis A10 des vorderen Nadelbettes und die Maschen B26 bis B32 und A27 bis A33 des' vorderen Nadelbettes in die Nadeln b24 bis b30 und a25 bis a31 des hinteren Nadelbettes umgehängt. Anschließend erfolgt in Reihe 5 ein Zurückhängen der Maschen der Nadeln B3 bis B9 des vorderen Nadelbettes in die Nadeln b3 bis b9 des hinteren Nadelbettes und ein Umhängen der Maschen der Nadeln a25 bis a31 des hinteren Nadelbettes auf die Nadeln A25 bis A31 auf dem vorderen Nadelbett. Nach dieser Minderung des Rumpfteiles wird in den Reihen 6 und 7 jeweils eine Maschenreihe mit den Nadeln A4 bis A31 des vorderen Nadelbettes und mit den Nadeln b3 bis b30 des hinteren Nadelbettes jeweils über beide Ärmel und das Rumpfteil gebildet. Anschließend werden in Reihe 8 zur Minderung der Ärmel die Maschen der Nadeln A4 bis A6 des vorderen Nadelbettes auf die Nadeln a4 bis a6 des hinteren Nadelbettes und die Maschen der Nadeln b28 bis b30 des hinteren Nadelbettes auf die Nadeln B28 bis B30 des vorderen Nadelbettes umgehängt. Dann werden in Reihe 9 nach einem Nadelbettenversatz die Maschen der Nadeln b3 bis b5 und a4 bis a6 in die Nadeln B5 bis B7 und A6 bis A8 des vorderen Nadelbettes und die Maschen der Nadeln B28 bis B30 und A29 bis A31 des vorderen Nadelbettes in die Nadeln b26 bis b28 und a27 bis a29 des hinteren Nadelbettes umgehängt. In Reihe 10 erfolgt ein Rückhängen der Maschen der Nadeln B5 bis B7 des vorderen Nadelbettes in die Nadeln b5 bis b7 des hinteren Nadelbettes und die Maschen der Nadeln a27 bis a29 des hinteren Nadelbettes in die Nadeln A27 bis A29 des vorderen Nadelbettes. Die Schritte der Reihen 1 bis 10 werden anschließend solange wiederholt, bis die Ärmel vollständig mit dem Rumpfteil verbunden sind.In row 1, with a first knitting system in the carriage direction from left to right with the needles A2 to A33, a row of stitches is formed over both sleeves and the trunk portion on the front needle bed. Then, in row 2 in the opposite direction of carriage with the needles b32 to b1 on the back needle bed, a course is also knitted over both sleeves and the torso part and with another knitting system in row 3 stitches of the needles A2 to A8 of the front needle bed into the needles a2 to a8 of the rear needle bed and the stitches of the needles b26 to b32 of the rear needle bed in the needles 826 to B32 of the front needle bed umgehängt. In row 4, after a needle bed offset, the stitches of the needles b1 to b7 and a2 to a8 of the back needle bed into the needles B3 to 89 and A4 to A10 of the front needle bed and the stitches B26 to B32 and A27 to A33 of the front needle bed in the Needles b24 to b30 and a25 to a31 of the rear needle bed are transferred. Subsequently, in row 5, the stitches of the needles B3 to B9 of the front needle bed are hooked back into the needles b3 to b9 of the rear needle bed and the stitches of the needles a25 to a31 of the rear needle bed are transferred to the needles A25 to A31 on the front needle bed. After this reduction of the body part, a row of stitches with the needles A4 to A31 of the front needle bed and with the needles b3 to b30 of the rear needle bed are respectively formed in rows 6 and 7 over both sleeves and the body part. Subsequently, in order to reduce the sleeves 8, the stitches of the needles A4 to A6 of the front needle bed are transferred to the needles a4 to a6 of the rear needle bed and the stitches of the needles b28 to b30 of the rear needle bed to the needles B28 to B30 of the front needle bed. Then in row 9 after a needle bed offset, the stitches of the needles b3 to b5 and a4 to a6 in the needles B5 to B7 and A6 to A8 of the front needle bed and the stitches of the needles B28 to B30 and A29 to A31 of the front needle bed into the needles b26 to b28 and a27 to a29 of the rear needle bed. In row 10, the stitches of the needles B5 to B7 of the front needle bed are hooked back into the needles b5 to b7 of the rear needle bed and the stitches of the needles a27 to a29 of the rear needle bed into the needles A27 to A29 of the front needle bed. The steps of rows 1 to 10 are then repeated until the sleeves are completely connected to the body part.

Claims (2)

  1. Method of producing a garment providing sleeves as a complete knitted fabric on a two bed flat knitting machine, in which the connecting region (25, 26) runs diagonally between the sleeves (23, 24) and the body part (22) to the shoulder (27, 28), and in which the sleeves (23, 24) and the body part (22) are first made as tubular knitted fabrics with separated guide feeds and whereby each of the needles of the one needle bed occupied with a stitch opposing the needles of the other needle bed are not occupied with stitches, characterised in that to link the sleeves (23, 24) to the body part (22) with a guide feed, the following steps must be carried out:
    a) In a first direction of motion of the carriage e.g. from left to right, knit a course in the front needle bed in the region of both sleeves and the body part and subsequently in the opposing direction of motion of the carriage in the rear needle bed knit a course in the region of both sleeves and the body part;
    b) To reduce the number of stitches in the body part, transfer the stitches (A2 to A13) in the front part of the left sleeve and transfer the stitches in the left lateral region of the body part from the front to the rear needle bed and transfer the stitches (b21 to b32) in the rear part of the right sleeve and transfer the stitches in the right lateral region of the body part from the rear needle bed into the front needle bed;
    c) Subsequently, following offset of the needle beds, transfer all stitches (b1 to b12, a2 to a13) in the region of the left sleeve and left edge of the body part from the rear to the front needle bed and transfer all stitches (B21 to B32, A22 to A33) in the region of the right sleeve and right side of the body part from the front into the rear needle bed;
    d) Following back-offset of the needle beds, back-transfer the stitches (B3 to B14) in the rear part of the left sleeve and in the left lateral region of the body part from the front needle bed to the rear needle bed and back-transfer the stitches (a22 to a31) in the front part of the right sleeve and right lateral region of the body part from the rear into the front needle bed;
    e) Knit one or several courses respectively in the front and rear needle bed in the region of both sleeves and the reduced body part;
    f) To reduce the number of switches in the sleeves, transfer the stitches (A4 to A11) in the front part of the left sleeve from the front to the rear needle bed and transfer the stitches (b23 to b30) in the rear part of the right sleeve from the rear needle bed into the front needle bed;
    g) Following offset of the needle beds, transfer all stitches in the left and right sleeve (b3 to b10, a4 to a11; B23 to B30, A24 to A31) from the rear into the front needle bed or from the front into the rear needle bed;
    h) Following offset of the needle beds-transfer the stitches (B5 to B12) in the 3 rear part of the left sleeve and the left lateral region of the body part from the front into the rear needle bed and back-transfer the stitches (a22 to a29) in the front part of the right sleeve and the right lateral region of the body part from the rear needle bed into the front needle bed;
    i) Repeat steps e) to h) once or several times, before steps b) to d) are repeated to reduce the number of stitches in the body part;
    j) Repeat steps b) to i) until the sleeves are completely connected to the body part.
  2. Method of producing a garment providing raglan sleeves as a complete knitted fabric or a two bed flat knitting machine, in which the sleeves and the body part are first made as tubular knitted fabrics with separated guide feeds and in which each cf the needles of the one needle bed occupied with a stitch opposing the needles of the other needle bed are not occupied with stitches, characterised in that to link the sleeves (33, 34) to the body part (32) with a guide feed, the following steps must be carried out:
    a) First knit one course respectively in the front and rear needle bed in the region of both sleeves and the body part;
    b) To reduce the number of stitches in the body part, transfer the stitches in the front part of the left sleeve (A2 to A6) and the left lateral region of the body part (A7, A8) from the front needle bed into the rear needle bed and transfer the stitches in the rear part of the right sleeve (b28 to b32) and the right lateral region of the body part (b26, b27) from the rear into the front needle bed;
    c) Subsequently, following offset of the needle beds, transfer all stitches (b1 to b7, a2 to a8) in the region of the left sleeve and in the left lateral region of the body part from the rear into the front needle bed and transfer all stitches (B26 to B32, A27 to A33) in the richt sleeve and the right lateral region of the body part from the front into the rear needle bed;
    d) Following back-offset of the needle beds, back-transfer the stitches (B3 to B9) in the rear part of the left sleeve and lef: lateral region of the body part from the front into the rear needle bed and back-transfer the stitches (a25 to a31) in the front part of the right s..eeve and right lateral region of the body part from the rear into the front needle bed;
    e) Knit one or several courses respectively in the front and rear needle bed in the region of both sleeves and the body part;
    f) To reduce the number of stitches in the sleeves, transfer the stitches (A4 to A6) in the front part of the left sleeve from the front into the rear needle bed and transfer the stitches (b28 to b30) in the rear part in the right sleeve from the rear into the front needle bed;
    g) Following offset of the needle beds, transfer all stitches (b3 to b5, a4 to a 5) in the region of the left sleeve from the rear into the front needle bed and transfer all stitches (B28 to B30, A29 to A31) in the region of the right sleeve from the front into the rear needle bed;
    h) Following back-offset of the needle beds, back-transfer the stitches (B5 to B7) in the rear part of the left sleeve and the left lateral region of the body part from the front into the rear needle bed and back-transfer the switches (a27 to a 29 (in the front part of the right sleeve and the right lateral region of the body part from the rear into the front needle bed;
    i) Repeat steps b) to h), intil the sleeves are completely connected to the body part.
EP98100579A 1997-02-07 1998-01-15 Method for manufacturing a garment provided with arms on a double bed flat knitting machine Expired - Lifetime EP0857800B2 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19704646A DE19704646B4 (en) 1997-02-07 1997-02-07 A method of making a sleeved garment on a twin flat knitting machine
DE19704646 1997-02-07

Publications (4)

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EP0857800A2 EP0857800A2 (en) 1998-08-12
EP0857800A3 EP0857800A3 (en) 2000-03-15
EP0857800B1 EP0857800B1 (en) 2004-04-14
EP0857800B2 true EP0857800B2 (en) 2007-12-26

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EP (1) EP0857800B2 (en)
JP (1) JP3013242B2 (en)
CN (1) CN1086750C (en)
DE (2) DE19704646B4 (en)
ES (1) ES2219791T3 (en)

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DE19704646B4 (en) 2005-02-03
US5916272A (en) 1999-06-29
EP0857800A3 (en) 2000-03-15
CN1086750C (en) 2002-06-26
CN1196414A (en) 1998-10-21
EP0857800A2 (en) 1998-08-12
ES2219791T3 (en) 2004-12-01
JPH1161603A (en) 1999-03-05
JP3013242B2 (en) 2000-02-28
DE19704646A1 (en) 1998-08-13
DE59811169D1 (en) 2004-05-19
EP0857800B1 (en) 2004-04-14

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