EP1522616B1 - Method of making a knitted garment - Google Patents

Description

The invention relates to a method for producing a knitted garment as a tube-round knitted fabric with a special design of the shoulder region, which is known as the so-called "French shoulder". This type of shoulder is characterized in that the connection between the front and back of the garment is not in the middle of the shoulder but in the upper part of the back part. To realize such a shoulder solution in tubular-round-knit is in the DE 197 04 666 A1 a method has been proposed in which the front and back are knitted together in a known manner as tubular fabric until the beginning of the shoulder area. In the shoulder region, the shoulder part is then only initially formed for one of the two parts, for example for the front part, in such a way that it extends over the middle of the shoulder of the garment. Only after completion of the shoulder portion for the first part, the shoulder portion is optionally formed to form a neckline for the second part. During the knitting of the second part or after its completion, the connection of the shoulder parts of the two parts takes place, starting by the edges of the stitches of one part are transferred to the needles with the stitches of the other part and are formed with these needles after each transfer stitches ,

The US 5,456,096 describes a method for making a knit with a neckline, wherein the shoulder portion of the knit piece for the front and back of the knit piece is formed, and then the two pieces are joined together on a shoulder line. The front and back of the shoulder area are knitted with separate thread guides on the back and front needle bed. The connection of the parts to the shoulder line is done by replacing the thread guides, ie the thread guide has previously supplied the needles of the front needle bed thread, now leads thread to the needles of the rear needle bed and vice versa.

The EP 1 211 341 A1 describes a method for binding off stitches, stitches being formed along the warp seam to emphasize the joining line.

In tubular-round-knit fabrics on the front and rear needle bed knit - here, the front part and the back part of a garment - formed, which are connected together at the edges. Both knits are seized by the drawers of the knitting machine in the same catfish as a single knitting course. It is therefore hardly possible that on courses that are formed on the front needle bed, while no stitches are formed on the rear needle bed for a long period of time, a targeted trigger force acts. The limited effect of the extraction device must therefore be compensated by the action of hold-down plates and Einreifreifern.

The present invention has for its object to provide a method for forming Schutterpartien for tubular-round knits, with the connection of the front with the back of the body part can be produced outside of the shoulder center and in which the above-mentioned disadvantages are avoided.

The object is achieved with a method for producing a knitted garment as a tube-round knit with the features of claim 1.

According to the method of the invention, courses of stitches are thus continuously formed in the shoulder area both for the front and for the back part of the garment. The above described in the prior art disadvantages of a non-existent defined knitted fabric thus do not occur here. The displacement of the shoulder line away from the center of the shoulder in the upper region of the back part or the front part is done here solely in that one part always over the entire width of the knitted fabric stitches are formed, while the other part, the number of stitches in the shoulder area is reduced , Preferably, the number of stitches in the courses of the knitted part on the second needle bed can be increasingly reduced by the knitted edges, so that after connecting the stitches of the two knitted sections in the shoulder area, a connecting line extending obliquely from the neck section to the arm results in the upper area of the second part , The reduction in the number of stitches in the courses in the shoulder region of the part on the second needle bed can be linear, stepped or made in any other way over the height of the shoulder region. As a result, straight, stepped or curved connecting lines between the two knitted parts in the shoulder region can be achieved.

Preferably, the same number of courses can be formed for the two parts in the shoulder region. As a result, the problem of the reduced efficiency of the knitted fabric as described in the prior art can largely be avoided when forming courses for only one of the knit parts.

When transferring the stitches of the part of the first needle bed to the second needle bed, the hanging can preferably be started with the stitches on the outer knitting edges. The joining of the stitches can be carried out in a conventional manner by means of a Ketteltechnik. It is also possible, after each transfer of stitches of the part of the first needle bed on the second needle bed at least with those needles to which the stitches were transferred to form stitches to highlight the line connecting the two parts. In addition, stitches may be formed with the needles adjacent to the needles occupied by the loop, which are then transferred in the direction of the center of the knit so that they run exactly along the connecting line of the two knitted parts.

If a garment with sleeves are to be produced, then the sleeve stitches can be integrated in the shoulder region of the garment exclusively in the shoulder area of the knitted portion on the first needle bed by a transfer technique. After the completion of the shoulder parts for the two parts then only a connection of the stitches of the two knitted parts is necessary. The sleeves are already fully integrated.

During the knitting of the shoulder regions of the two knit parts, it goes without saying that necklines such as round necked or V-shaped cutouts can also be formed in the middle region of the knitwear. Subsequently, any collars, such as collars or Rollkrägen can be knit to the necklines.

The invention also relates to a knitted piece which is produced by a method according to the invention.

Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the inventive method will be described with reference to the drawings.

Fig. 1a, 1b

die Vorder- und die Rückseite eines nach einem erfindungsgemäßen Verfahren hergestellten Pullovers;

Fig. 2

eine Ansicht des Schulterbereichs des Vorder- und Rückenteils des Pullovers aus Fig. 1 bei Fertigung auf der Flachstrickmaschine mit einer fiktiven Auftrennung der Teile entlang der Maschinenlängsachse;

Fig. 3

eine Ansicht des linken Schulterbereichs des Pullovers aus Fig. 1 in Blickrichtung Z;

Fig. 4a - 4c

der Fig. 3 entsprechende Darstellungen mit weiteren Varianten der Verbindungslinien zwischen Vorder- und Rückenteil;

Fig. 5.1 - 5.11

eine schematische Darstellung des Maschenverlaufs eines Strickverfahrens zur Herstellung des Schulterbereichs des Pullovers aus Fig. 1.

In detail show:

Fig. 1a, 1b

the front and the back of a pullover produced by a method according to the invention;

Fig. 2

a view of the shoulder region of the front and back of the pullover Fig. 1 when manufacturing on the flat knitting machine with a fictional separation of the parts along the machine longitudinal axis;

Fig. 3

a view of the left shoulder area of the pullover Fig. 1 in the direction Z;

Fig. 4a - 4c

of the Fig. 3 corresponding representations with other variants of the connecting lines between the front and back;

Fig. 5.1 - 5.11

a schematic representation of the stitch course of a knitting process for producing the shoulder region of the pullover Fig. 1 ,

Fig. 1a, 1b show a sweater 1 from the front and back. In the front in Fig. 1a are the front part 2 of the body part, the front sides 3, 4 of the sleeves and the front collar side 5 can be seen. In Fig. 1b is the back 2 'of the body part and the backs 3', 4 'of the sleeve and the back 5' of the collar shown. The front sides 2, 3, 4, 5 are knitted on the front needle bed of a flat knitting machine and the back sides 2 ', 3', 4 'and 5' on the back needle bed of a flat knitting machine. It will be in the in Fig. 1a shown height section A, the front and back part 2, 2 'and the Ärmelvorder- and -rückseiten 3, 3'; 4, 4 'knitted as a tubular circular knit with separate yarn guides parallel to each other on the flat knitting machine. After reaching the armpit in the section B, the sleeves 3, 3 '; 4, 4 'are connected to the body parts 2, 2' by any method according to the prior art. Then meshes are formed with a common yarn guide for a coherent hose knit until the beginning of the shoulder section C or C 'is reached. In the region of the shoulders C, C 'knitting rows for the front and back 2, 2' of the body part are formed and the front 2 and the back 2 'along lines 6, 7 interconnected by a method according to the invention, the lines 6, 7 do not run in the shoulder center of the pullover 1 but in the upper region of the back part 2 '. Finally, in the section D, the stand-up collar 5, 5 'is knitted again according to a method according to the prior art.

Fig. 2 now illustrates the preparation of the shoulder portions C, C 'of the pullover 1 Fig. 1a, 1b , For better clarification of the knitting process, the front sections 2, 3, 4 of the torso and the sleeves, and the associated back parts 2 ', 3', 4 ', which are actually actually present as a common tubular circular knit, are split in a flat position on both sides of a middle one Longitudinal axis M of the flat knitting machine otherwise not shown. From the first row of knitting for the shoulders C, C 'are for the sleeves 3, 3'; 4, 4 'no longer formed stitches. For the front side 2 of the body part in the section C knitting rows over the entire width, which has the body part 2 at the beginning of the shoulder portion C, formed. At the same time, all stitches of the front sides of the right and left sleeves 3,; 4, in the direction of the arrows T ₁ , T ₂ connected by a Umhängetechnik with the front part 2. Initially, the stitches of the sleeve front sides 3, 4 and then the stitches of the sleeve backs 3 ', 4' are integrated.

In contrast, in the shoulder portion C 'of the back part 2' not over the entire width of the back part 2 'stitches are formed. Rather, the number of stitch-forming needles is increasingly reduced by means of a winding technique, in the illustrated example linear and symmetrical with respect to the longitudinal axis of the knitting piece X. All needles, however, remain meshed. The outer needles no longer participate in the stitching process.

By changing the number of stitches forming needles in the individual knitting rows, the contour lines 2 ", 2"'on the back 2' of the body part arise. These contour lines 2 ", 2"'in turn determine the position and the course of the in Fig. 1b shown connecting lines 6, 7 between the front 2 and the back 2 'of the body part of the pullover 1. In the example shown, a so-called "French shoulder", in which the connection between the front and back part 2, 2 'does not run on the shoulder center but in the upper region of the back part 2'. When in Fig. 2 As shown, for the front part 2 and the back part 2 'equal number of courses in the sections C, C' are formed. The connection of the parts 2, 2 'in the shoulder area is done by hanging the stitches of the front part 2 on the opposite needles, which are occupied with stitches of the back parts 2'. This is in Fig. 2 indicated by the arrows T ₃ , T ₄ .

Fig. 3 shows in the view from above the left shoulder area of the pullover 1 Fig. 1 , The dot-dash line Y indicates the shoulder center of the pullover. It can be seen clearly that the connecting line 7 between the front part 2 and the back part 2 'does not run on the shoulder center Y, but extends obliquely from the collar 5, 5' to the sleeve 4, 4 'in the back part 2'. The connecting line 7 ends at the integration line 4 "of the sleeve back 4 'in the back part 2'.

With 8, 9 additional wales are referred to reinforce the contour of the connecting line 7 optically. They also run parallel to the connecting line 7 from the binding line 4 "of the sleeve 4, 4 'to the left side of the collar 5, 5'.

The Fig. 4a - 4c give alternative embodiments of the connecting line 7 Fig. 3 in an otherwise depicting Fig. 3 comparable representation. In the Fig. 4a shown connecting line 7 ' is stepped. It arises from a discontinuous decrease in the number of knitting needles in the back part 2 '. The front part 2 is formed in the shoulder portion C in an identical manner, as in Fig. 2 is shown.

In Fig. 4b is a curved course 7 "of the connecting line between the front and back part 2, 2 'shown. Fig. 4c makes it clear that the connecting line 7 "' between the front and back part 2, 2' can also run in the region of the front part 2. For this purpose, the section C of the front part 2 must receive the desired contour by means of the winding technique, while in the back part 2 'over the entire width of the knitted fabric 2 'in the shoulder area C' stitches are formed.

The Fig. 5.1 - 5.11 illustrate in the form of a stitch course representation of the preparation of the shoulder portions C, C 'of the pullover 1 Fig. 1 , In this case, the knitting rows R1-R32 relate to the knitting sequence for forming the stitch rows for the front and back 2, 2 'of the body part and connecting the left and right sleeves to the front side 2 of the body part. In the knitting lines R33 - R40 , the knitting sequence for the connection of the front and back 2, 2 'of the body part and the formation of contour stitches are shown. In all rows of knitting, the front needle bed is marked V and the rear needle bed H. The Nadeleinteilung on both needle beds V, H is such that only every other needle is covered with stitches. Each stitch-bearing needle also faces an empty needle.

In the example shown, a knitting machine with three knitting systems is used, wherein each knitting system can bring the needles in any position. However, the method is also feasible with knitting machines with fewer knitting systems. However, more sled motions then have to be performed. Furthermore, in the example shown, the thread guides are moved by the knitting systems. It is therefore necessary in some places Fadenführerkorrekturbewegungen that can be omitted when a knitting machine is used with a separate moving device for the thread guides.

The knitting row R0 shows the last knitting row of the section B of the pullover 1 Fig. 1 , On the front needle bed V, the needles A - D have stitches for the front part 3 of the sleeve, the needles E - O stitches for the front part 2 of the body part and the needles P - S stitches for the front side 4 of the second sleeve. On the back needle bed, the needles knit a - d stitches for the back 3 'of the right sleeve, the needle e - o stitches for the back 2' of the body portion, and the needles p - s stitches for the back 4 'of the left sleeve.

The row R1 is the starting knitting series of the sections C, C '. The stitches A - D; P - S of the front needle bed V and the needles a - d, p - s of the rear needle bed H, which previously formed stitches for the sleeves, no longer participate in the knitting process. The last stitches of the sleeves rest on them. Then stitches are formed in the knitting direction from right to left with the first knitting system and the yarn guide 5 with the needles h-o of the rear needle bed H for the back 2 'of the body part. The back 2 'is formed in Spickeltechnik. This means that all needles are meshes, but not all stitches participate in stitching. Thus, no stitches are formed in row R1 with the needles e - g. As in particular from Fig. 3 As can be seen, the number of knitting needles with increasing knitting height is less and less.

In row R2, with the second knitting system and the yarn guide 4 in the same knitting direction with the needles H - 0 stitches are formed for the front side 2 of the body part. The front part 2 is formed over the entire height of the section C with the same number of needles. In knitting row R2 stitches are not formed with the needles E - G only because the thread guide 5 is still in the way for the further knitting process.

This yarn guide 5 is moved in the knitting row R3 in the direction of carriage movement from left to right as well as the yarn guide 4 with the second and third knitting system in their knitting field. The yarn guide 5 is displaced so far that it does not interfere with the yarn guide 4 in the yarn insert from the needle G.

In row R4, the remaining stitches on the needles E - G of the front needle bed V are then formed with the thread guide 4.

In row R5, a correction movement for the thread guide 5 with the second knitting system is again carried out to the left next to the needle h, so that in the next knitting row it can insert the thread securely into this needle.

In row R6, in the same direction of carriage movement with the third knitting system, the sleeve stitches P - S are transferred to the opposite empty needles p '- s' .

Subsequently, in row R7, the rear needle bed H is displaced from the basic position by two needles to the left. Then, in the carriage movement direction from left to right, with the first knitting system, the stitches are transferred from the needles p '- s' to the needle 0 - R of the front needle bed V.

In row R8, the back needle bed is returned to its home position and the knitting systems are moved to the left fabric side before in row R9 in the direction of knitting from left to right with the first knitting system and the yarn guide 5 with the needles h - I stitches for the back 2 be formed. The needles h - I lie away from the edge of the back part 2 '.

In row R10, stitches for the front part 2 in the shoulder region C are also formed in the knitting direction from left to right with the needles E - K of the front needle bed V with the second knitting system and the yarn guide 4. On the needle O are now two stitches, the outermost stitch of the front part 2 and the hinged sleeve mesh of the edge needle P of the left sleeve.

Correction movements for the thread guides 5 and 4 are again carried out in row R11. The yarn guide 5 is thereby displaced so that it does not hinder a yarn insert by the yarn guide 4 from the needle L.

Then, in the row R12, stitching is made with the remaining needles L-O of the front needle bed V for the front part 2.

In row 13 is again moved in the carriage direction from left to right of the yarn guide 5 with the second knitting system as far to the right of the needle 1 that he can safely insert the thread in the next knitting in this needle.

In row R14, the sleeve stitches are then transferred from the needles A-D of the front needle bed V to the opposite empty needles A'-D '.

In row R15, the back needle bed has then made an offset of two needle pitches to the right, and the stitches are transferred from the needles a'-d 'to the needles B-E of the front needle bed V.

In row R16, the rear needle bed H is then moved to the left again by a needle pitch. The loop of the needle a of the rear needle bed H is transferred to the needle A of the front needle bed V. This stitch is a stitch on the back of the right sleeve, which has now been transferred to the needle bed on the front of the right sleeve. This results in a uniform transfer process in which all stitches of the sleeve are connected to the front of the body part.

In row R17, the rear needle bed H has been restored to its basic position. There are then formed with the first knitting system and the thread guide 5 stitches with the needles i - I for the back 2 'of the body part.

In row R 18, stitches for the front side of the body part 2 are formed with the second knitting system and the yarn guide 4 in the knitting direction from right to left on the needles I-0 on the needles of the front needle bed V. On the needle E rest two stitches, the outermost stitch of the front of the body and the attached stitch of the right sleeve.

In row R19, the thread guides 4, 5 are moved into their knitting fields in the direction of carriage movement from left to right with the second and third knitting systems.

Subsequently, in rows R20 with the needles E - H, the remaining stitches are formed for the front side 2 of the body part.

In row R21, the thread guide 5 is moved to the left of the needle i in the carriage direction from right to left with the second knitting system, so that in the next knitting row it can safely insert the thread into this needle.

In row R22, in the same direction of carriage movement with the third knitting system, the front sleeve loops of the needle P, Q, R which are not yet hinged to the trunk part are then transferred to the needles p ', q', r 'of the back needle bed H.

Subsequently, in row R23, an offset of the rear needle bed H by two needle pitches to the left and the hanging back of the transferred stitches on the front needle bed in the needles O, P, Q.

In row R24, the back needle bed H is then reset by a needle pitch to the right and the stitch s of the back needle bed H is transferred to the needle R of the front needle bed V. The stitch of the needle s is a sleeve stitch from the sleeve back. This results in a uniform Umhängeprozess by all the stitches of the sleeve are connected to the front side 2 of the body part.

In row R25, the rear needle bed H has been restored to its basic position. In the direction of carriage movement from left to right, with the first knitting system and the thread guide 5, a further short row of stitches extending over three needles i, j, k is formed for the back 2 'of the body part.

Subsequently, in row R26 in the direction of carriage movement from left to right, the second knitting system and the thread guide 4 are used to form stitches with the needles E - J of the front needle bed V for the front side 2 of the body part. On the needle O of the front needle bed V rest two stitches, next to the fuselage mesh the attached stitch of the left sleeve.

In row R27, the thread guides are again moved, so that in particular the thread guide 5 does not hinder the formation of further stitches on the front needle bed V, so that in series R28 also with the needles K - 0 of the front needle bed V stitches for the front side 2 of the body part formed can be.

In row R29 the yarn guide 5 is moved to the right of the needle k with the second knitting system so that it can safely insert the yarn into this needle during the subsequent knitting process.

Prior to this, however, in row R30, the stitches of the front side of the right sleeve are transferred from the needles A-D to the opposite needles a'-d 'of the rear needle bed H, and in row R31 an offset of the rear needle bed H is made to the right and two needle divisions a back hanging of the just transferred stitches on the opposite needles B - E of the front needle bed V.

In row R32, the rear needle bed has now been returned to its basic position and the knitting systems moved to the right side of the fabric.

In the knitting cycle of the rows R1-R32, four rows of knitting for the front and back of the body part have been formed in the shoulder area C, C '. From the two sleeves were each two stitches connected to the front of the body part. This knitting cycle is repeated until the courses required for the sections C, C 'are formed and all the stitches of the sleeves are connected to the front side 2 of the body part.

The connection of the front 2 and the back 2 'of the body portion in the shoulder region is made by transferring the stitches of the front side 2 of the body part, which are on the front needle bed V, on the opposite, mesh-carrying needles of the rear needle bed H, the back 2 'have formed the body part. The transfer of the stitches begins at the side knitted edges with at least one needle. In the example shown, two stitches are transferred simultaneously, as shown in row R33. For this purpose, the rear needle bed is previously offset by a needle pitch to the right.

In row R34, the rear needle bed H has been moved back to its normal position. In the knitting direction from left to right, the second knitting system with the yarn guide 3 and the needles forms b - e stitches. These stitches highlight the contour of the connecting line of the front and back of the body in the area of the right shoulder. The more needles mesh, the wider this contour area becomes. The minimum number of needles which emphasize the contour is dictated by the number of needles to which stitches of needles of the front needle bed have been passed. In the example shown, these are two needles.

In row R35, in the knitting direction from right to left, with the second knitting system and the thread guide 3, a further series of contour stitches is formed with the needles b-e.

Subsequently, in series R36 in the same knitting direction with the third knitting system and the yarn guide 4, a row of contour stitches is formed with the needles with the needles o-r in the region of the left shoulder.

In series R 37, contour meshes are again generated with the same needles.

In row R38, with the third knitting system, the stitches of the needles b - e and o - r, that is, the contour stitches of the back needle bed H, are transferred to their opposite needles A '- D' and N '- Q' of the front needle bed V.

Subsequently, an offset of the rear needle bed H by four needle pitches to the left is performed in row R39. In the carriage movement direction from right to left, with the second knitting system, the stitches of the needles A '- D' of the front needle bed V are transferred to the opposite needles d - g of the rear needle bed H. The offset path of the needle bed results from the number of needles from which stitches are transmitted, multiplied by the needle spacing.

In row R40, the back needle bed is then offset to the right by a total of eight needle pitches and the stitches of the needles N'-Q 'of the front needle bed V are transferred to the opposite needles m-p of the back needle bed H.

The knitting cycle R33 - R40 is repeated until the front and back of the body part at the left and right shoulder area are connected to each other.

Claims (9)

1. Method for producing an item of knitted clothing as tubular knitwear on a flat bed knitting machine with at least two opposing needle beds (V, H), wherein the following steps are carried out to manufacture the shoulder region (C, C') of the tubular knitwear (1) in which no more stitches are formed for the sleeves (3, 3';4, 4'):

   - the progressive forming in the shoulder region (C, C') of rows of stitches both for the part (2) arranged on the first needle bed (V) as well as for part (2') arranged on the second needle bed (H), wherein the full constant width of part (2) is produced for the part (2) of the tubular knitwear (1) arranged on the first needle bed (V), and rows of stitches with fewer stitches than those across the full width of part (2') are formed for part (2') of the tubular knitwear (1) arranged on the second needle bed (H), such that the outer needles with rows of stitches of part (2') no longer take part in the stitch formation process,

   - following the last row of stitches, transfer of the stitches of part (2) of the first needle bed (V) on to the needles of the second needle bed (H) to the stitches of the second part (2') and attachment of both parts (2, 2').
2. Method according to claim 1, characterised in that the same number of rows of stitches are formed for both parts (2, 2') in the shoulder region (C, C').
3. Method according to claim 2, characterised in that, in the process of transferring the stitches of part (2) of the first needle bed (V) to the second needle bed (H), the transfer is started with the stitches on the outer edges of the fabric.
4. Method according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterised in that the stitches of the last rows of stitches of both parts (2, 2') are joined together by a looping technique.
5. Method according one of claims 1 to 4, characterised in that, after each transfer of stitches of part (2) of the first needle bed (V) to the second needle bed (H) at least with those needles on which stitches were transferred, stitches are formed to accentuate the attachment line (6, 7) between the two parts (2, 2').
6. Method according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterised in that the number of stitches in the rows of stitches of part (2') on the second needle bed (H) are reduced increasingly from the edges of the fabric.
7. Method according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterised in that, in the rows of stitches in the shoulder region (C') of part (2') on the second needle bed (H), the reduction in the number of stitches is linear, stepped or varied as desired at the level of the shoulder region (C').
8. Method according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterised in that, in an item of clothing with sleeves (3, 3'; 4, 4') in the shoulder region (C, C') of the item of clothing (1), the sleeve stitches are joined exclusively in the shoulder region (C) of the part on the first needle bed (V) by a loop transfer technique.
9. Method according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterised in that, during the knitting of the shoulder regions (C, C') of the two knitted parts (2, 2'), neck cut-outs are formed in the central region of the parts (2, 2').

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