EP1522616B1 - Procédé pour la production d'un vêtement tricoté - Google Patents

Procédé pour la production d'un vêtement tricoté Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1522616B1
EP1522616B1 EP20030022392 EP03022392A EP1522616B1 EP 1522616 B1 EP1522616 B1 EP 1522616B1 EP 20030022392 EP20030022392 EP 20030022392 EP 03022392 A EP03022392 A EP 03022392A EP 1522616 B1 EP1522616 B1 EP 1522616B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stitches
needle bed
needles
knitting
shoulder
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP20030022392
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP1522616A1 (fr
Inventor
Henning Schmidt
Thomas Nonnenmacher
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Original Assignee
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by H Stoll GmbH and Co KG filed Critical H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Priority to EP20030022392 priority Critical patent/EP1522616B1/fr
Priority to CNB2004100835765A priority patent/CN100482872C/zh
Publication of EP1522616A1 publication Critical patent/EP1522616A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1522616B1 publication Critical patent/EP1522616B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for producing a knitted garment as a tube-round knitted fabric with a special design of the shoulder region, which is known as the so-called "French shoulder".
  • This type of shoulder is characterized in that the connection between the front and back of the garment is not in the middle of the shoulder but in the upper part of the back part.
  • a method has been proposed in which the front and back are knitted together in a known manner as tubular fabric until the beginning of the shoulder area.
  • the shoulder part is then only initially formed for one of the two parts, for example for the front part, in such a way that it extends over the middle of the shoulder of the garment.
  • the shoulder portion is optionally formed to form a neckline for the second part.
  • the connection of the shoulder parts of the two parts takes place, starting by the edges of the stitches of one part are transferred to the needles with the stitches of the other part and are formed with these needles after each transfer stitches ,
  • the US 5,456,096 describes a method for making a knit with a neckline, wherein the shoulder portion of the knit piece for the front and back of the knit piece is formed, and then the two pieces are joined together on a shoulder line.
  • the front and back of the shoulder area are knitted with separate thread guides on the back and front needle bed.
  • the connection of the parts to the shoulder line is done by replacing the thread guides, ie the thread guide has previously supplied the needles of the front needle bed thread, now leads thread to the needles of the rear needle bed and vice versa.
  • the EP 1 211 341 A1 describes a method for binding off stitches, stitches being formed along the warp seam to emphasize the joining line.
  • the present invention has for its object to provide a method for forming Schutterpartien for tubular-round knits, with the connection of the front with the back of the body part can be produced outside of the shoulder center and in which the above-mentioned disadvantages are avoided.
  • the object is achieved with a method for producing a knitted garment as a tube-round knit with the features of claim 1.
  • courses of stitches are thus continuously formed in the shoulder area both for the front and for the back part of the garment.
  • the above described in the prior art disadvantages of a non-existent defined knitted fabric thus do not occur here.
  • the displacement of the shoulder line away from the center of the shoulder in the upper region of the back part or the front part is done here solely in that one part always over the entire width of the knitted fabric stitches are formed, while the other part, the number of stitches in the shoulder area is reduced .
  • the number of stitches in the courses of the knitted part on the second needle bed can be increasingly reduced by the knitted edges, so that after connecting the stitches of the two knitted sections in the shoulder area, a connecting line extending obliquely from the neck section to the arm results in the upper area of the second part ,
  • the reduction in the number of stitches in the courses in the shoulder region of the part on the second needle bed can be linear, stepped or made in any other way over the height of the shoulder region.
  • the same number of courses can be formed for the two parts in the shoulder region.
  • the problem of the reduced efficiency of the knitted fabric as described in the prior art can largely be avoided when forming courses for only one of the knit parts.
  • the hanging can preferably be started with the stitches on the outer knitting edges.
  • the joining of the stitches can be carried out in a conventional manner by means of a Ketteltechnik. It is also possible, after each transfer of stitches of the part of the first needle bed on the second needle bed at least with those needles to which the stitches were transferred to form stitches to highlight the line connecting the two parts.
  • stitches may be formed with the needles adjacent to the needles occupied by the loop, which are then transferred in the direction of the center of the knit so that they run exactly along the connecting line of the two knitted parts.
  • the sleeve stitches can be integrated in the shoulder region of the garment exclusively in the shoulder area of the knitted portion on the first needle bed by a transfer technique. After the completion of the shoulder parts for the two parts then only a connection of the stitches of the two knitted parts is necessary. The sleeves are already fully integrated.
  • necklines such as round necked or V-shaped cutouts can also be formed in the middle region of the knitwear.
  • any collars such as collars or Rollkrägen can be knit to the necklines.
  • the invention also relates to a knitted piece which is produced by a method according to the invention.
  • Fig. 1a, 1b show a sweater 1 from the front and back.
  • the front in Fig. 1a are the front part 2 of the body part, the front sides 3, 4 of the sleeves and the front collar side 5 can be seen.
  • Fig. 1b is the back 2 'of the body part and the backs 3', 4 'of the sleeve and the back 5' of the collar shown.
  • the front sides 2, 3, 4, 5 are knitted on the front needle bed of a flat knitting machine and the back sides 2 ', 3', 4 'and 5' on the back needle bed of a flat knitting machine. It will be in the in Fig.
  • Fig. 2 now illustrates the preparation of the shoulder portions C, C 'of the pullover 1 Fig. 1a, 1b .
  • the front sections 2, 3, 4 of the torso and the sleeves, and the associated back parts 2 ', 3', 4 ' which are actually actually present as a common tubular circular knit, are split in a flat position on both sides of a middle one Longitudinal axis M of the flat knitting machine otherwise not shown.
  • contour lines 2 ", 2"'on the back 2' of the body part arise. These contour lines 2 ", 2"'in turn determine the position and the course of the in Fig. 1b shown connecting lines 6, 7 between the front 2 and the back 2 'of the body part of the pullover 1.
  • a so-called "French shoulder” in which the connection between the front and back part 2, 2 'does not run on the shoulder center but in the upper region of the back part 2'.
  • connection of the parts 2, 2 'in the shoulder area is done by hanging the stitches of the front part 2 on the opposite needles, which are occupied with stitches of the back parts 2'. This is in Fig. 2 indicated by the arrows T 3 , T 4 .
  • Fig. 3 shows in the view from above the left shoulder area of the pullover 1 Fig. 1 ,
  • the dot-dash line Y indicates the shoulder center of the pullover. It can be seen clearly that the connecting line 7 between the front part 2 and the back part 2 'does not run on the shoulder center Y, but extends obliquely from the collar 5, 5' to the sleeve 4, 4 'in the back part 2'.
  • the connecting line 7 ends at the integration line 4 "of the sleeve back 4 'in the back part 2'.
  • FIG. 4a - 4c give alternative embodiments of the connecting line 7 Fig. 3 in an otherwise depicting Fig. 3 comparable representation.
  • connecting line 7 ' is stepped. It arises from a discontinuous decrease in the number of knitting needles in the back part 2 '.
  • the front part 2 is formed in the shoulder portion C in an identical manner, as in Fig. 2 is shown.
  • Fig. 4b is a curved course 7 "of the connecting line between the front and back part 2, 2 'shown.
  • Fig. 4c makes it clear that the connecting line 7 "' between the front and back part 2, 2' can also run in the region of the front part 2.
  • the section C of the front part 2 must receive the desired contour by means of the winding technique, while in the back part 2 'over the entire width of the knitted fabric 2 'in the shoulder area C' stitches are formed.
  • the Fig. 5.1 - 5.11 illustrate in the form of a stitch course representation of the preparation of the shoulder portions C, C 'of the pullover 1 Fig. 1 ,
  • the knitting rows R1-R32 relate to the knitting sequence for forming the stitch rows for the front and back 2, 2 'of the body part and connecting the left and right sleeves to the front side 2 of the body part.
  • the knitting lines R33 - R40 the knitting sequence for the connection of the front and back 2, 2 'of the body part and the formation of contour stitches are shown.
  • the front needle bed is marked V and the rear needle bed H.
  • the Nadeleinannon on both needle beds V, H is such that only every other needle is covered with stitches.
  • Each stitch-bearing needle also faces an empty needle.
  • the knitting row R0 shows the last knitting row of the section B of the pullover 1 Fig. 1 .
  • the needles A - D have stitches for the front part 3 of the sleeve, the needles E - O stitches for the front part 2 of the body part and the needles P - S stitches for the front side 4 of the second sleeve.
  • the row R1 is the starting knitting series of the sections C, C '.
  • the last stitches of the sleeves rest on them.
  • stitches are formed in the knitting direction from right to left with the first knitting system and the yarn guide 5 with the needles h-o of the rear needle bed H for the back 2 'of the body part.
  • the back 2 ' is formed in Spickeltechnik. This means that all needles are meshes, but not all stitches participate in stitching.
  • no stitches are formed in row R1 with the needles e - g.
  • the number of knitting needles with increasing knitting height is less and less.
  • This yarn guide 5 is moved in the knitting row R3 in the direction of carriage movement from left to right as well as the yarn guide 4 with the second and third knitting system in their knitting field.
  • the yarn guide 5 is displaced so far that it does not interfere with the yarn guide 4 in the yarn insert from the needle G.
  • the rear needle bed H is displaced from the basic position by two needles to the left. Then, in the carriage movement direction from left to right, with the first knitting system, the stitches are transferred from the needles p '- s' to the needle 0 - R of the front needle bed V.
  • the back needle bed is returned to its home position and the knitting systems are moved to the left fabric side before in row R9 in the direction of knitting from left to right with the first knitting system and the yarn guide 5 with the needles h - I stitches for the back 2 be formed.
  • the needles h - I lie away from the edge of the back part 2 '.
  • stitches for the front part 2 in the shoulder region C are also formed in the knitting direction from left to right with the needles E - K of the front needle bed V with the second knitting system and the yarn guide 4.
  • the needle O are now two stitches, the outermost stitch of the front part 2 and the hinged sleeve mesh of the edge needle P of the left sleeve.
  • row 13 is again moved in the carriage direction from left to right of the yarn guide 5 with the second knitting system as far to the right of the needle 1 that he can safely insert the thread in the next knitting in this needle.
  • the back needle bed has then made an offset of two needle pitches to the right, and the stitches are transferred from the needles a'-d 'to the needles B-E of the front needle bed V.
  • the rear needle bed H is then moved to the left again by a needle pitch.
  • the loop of the needle a of the rear needle bed H is transferred to the needle A of the front needle bed V.
  • This stitch is a stitch on the back of the right sleeve, which has now been transferred to the needle bed on the front of the right sleeve. This results in a uniform transfer process in which all stitches of the sleeve are connected to the front of the body part.
  • the thread guide 5 is moved to the left of the needle i in the carriage direction from right to left with the second knitting system, so that in the next knitting row it can safely insert the thread into this needle.
  • the back needle bed H is then reset by a needle pitch to the right and the stitch s of the back needle bed H is transferred to the needle R of the front needle bed V.
  • the stitch of the needle s is a sleeve stitch from the sleeve back. This results in a uniform Um feeling perspectives by all the stitches of the sleeve are connected to the front side 2 of the body part.
  • the second knitting system and the thread guide 4 are used to form stitches with the needles E - J of the front needle bed V for the front side 2 of the body part.
  • the needle O of the front needle bed V rest two stitches, next to the fuselage mesh the attached stitch of the left sleeve.
  • connection of the front 2 and the back 2 'of the body portion in the shoulder region is made by transferring the stitches of the front side 2 of the body part, which are on the front needle bed V, on the opposite, mesh-carrying needles of the rear needle bed H, the back 2 'have formed the body part.
  • the transfer of the stitches begins at the side knitted edges with at least one needle. In the example shown, two stitches are transferred simultaneously, as shown in row R33.
  • the rear needle bed is previously offset by a needle pitch to the right.
  • the rear needle bed H has been moved back to its normal position.
  • the second knitting system with the yarn guide 3 and the needles forms b - e stitches. These stitches highlight the contour of the connecting line of the front and back of the body in the area of the right shoulder. The more needles mesh, the wider this contour area becomes.
  • the minimum number of needles which emphasize the contour is dictated by the number of needles to which stitches of needles of the front needle bed have been passed. In the example shown, these are two needles.
  • an offset of the rear needle bed H by four needle pitches to the left is performed in row R39.
  • the stitches of the needles A '- D' of the front needle bed V are transferred to the opposite needles d - g of the rear needle bed H.
  • the offset path of the needle bed results from the number of needles from which stitches are transmitted, multiplied by the needle spacing.
  • the back needle bed is then offset to the right by a total of eight needle pitches and the stitches of the needles N'-Q 'of the front needle bed V are transferred to the opposite needles m-p of the back needle bed H.
  • the knitting cycle R33 - R40 is repeated until the front and back of the body part at the left and right shoulder area are connected to each other.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)

Claims (9)

  1. Procédé de production d'un vêtement tricoté sous la forme d'un tricot tubulaire-circulaire sur un métier à tricoter rectiligne comprenant au moins deux fontures (V, H) opposées, dans lequel, pour la production des zones (C, C') d'épaule du tricot (1) tubulaire-circulaire, dans lesquelles pour les manches (3, 3' ; 4, 4') des mailles ne doivent pas être formées, on effectue les stades suivants :
    - formation continue dans la zone (C, C') d'épaule de rangées de mailles à la fois pour la partie (2) montée sur la première fonture (V) et pour la partie (2') montée sur la deuxième fonture (H), en ayant, pour la partie (2) montée sur la première fonture (V) du tricot (1) tubulaire-circulaire, la formation de rangées de mailles sur toute la largeur constante de la partie (2) et, pour la partie (2') montée sur la deuxième fonture (H) du tricot (1) tubulaire-circulaire, des rangées de mailles ayant moins de mailles que des mailles sur toute la largeur de la partie (2') de manière à ce que les aiguilles extérieures ayant des rangées de mailles de la partie (2') ne prennent plus partie à l'opération de formation de mailles,
    - après la dernière rangée du tricot, report des mailles de la partie (2) de la première fonture (V) sur les aiguilles de la deuxième fonture (H) en les mailles de la deuxième partie (2') et liaison des deux parties (2, 2').
  2. Procédé suivant la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que l'on forme pour les deux parties (2, 2') dans la zone (C, C') d'épaule le même nombre de rangées de mailles.
  3. Procédé suivant la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que, lors du report des mailles de la partie (2) de la première fonture (V) sur la deuxième fonture (H), on fait débuter le report par les mailles sur les bords extérieurs du tricot.
  4. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce qu'on relie entre elles les mailles des dernières rangées de tricot des deux parties (2, 2') au moyen d'une technique de remaillage.
  5. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce qu'après chaque report de mailles de la partie (2) de la première fonture (V) sur la deuxième fonture (H), on forme, par les aiguilles sur lesquelles les mailles ont été reportées, des mailles pour souligner la ligne (6, 7) de liaison entre les deux parties (2, 2').
  6. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisé en ce que l'on réduit de plus en plus à partir du bord du tricot le nombre de mailles dans les rangées de mailles de la partie (2') sur la deuxième fonture (H).
  7. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisé en ce que, pour les rangées de mailles dans la zone (C') d'épaule de la partie (2'), on réduit sur la deuxième fonture (H) le nombre de mailles linéairement, par palier ou de n'importe quelle autre façon sur la hauteur de la zone (C') d'épaule.
  8. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisé en ce que, pour un vêtement ayant des manches (3, 3' ; 4, 4') dans la zone (C, C') d'épaule du vêtement (1), on lie les mailles de manche par une technique de report exclusivement dans la zone (C) d'épaule de la partie sur la première fonture (V).
  9. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisé en ce que, pendant le tricotage des zones (c, C') d'épaule des deux parties (2, 2') du tricot, on forme des découpes de col dans la zone médiane des parties (2, 2').
EP20030022392 2003-10-06 2003-10-06 Procédé pour la production d'un vêtement tricoté Expired - Lifetime EP1522616B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP20030022392 EP1522616B1 (fr) 2003-10-06 2003-10-06 Procédé pour la production d'un vêtement tricoté
CNB2004100835765A CN100482872C (zh) 2003-10-06 2004-10-08 针织服装的生产方法以及生产的针织服装

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP20030022392 EP1522616B1 (fr) 2003-10-06 2003-10-06 Procédé pour la production d'un vêtement tricoté

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1522616A1 EP1522616A1 (fr) 2005-04-13
EP1522616B1 true EP1522616B1 (fr) 2013-03-06

Family

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Family Applications (1)

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EP20030022392 Expired - Lifetime EP1522616B1 (fr) 2003-10-06 2003-10-06 Procédé pour la production d'un vêtement tricoté

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EP (1) EP1522616B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN100482872C (fr)

Families Citing this family (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2327261T3 (es) * 2006-04-04 2009-10-27 H. STOLL GMBH & CO. KG Procedimiento de tricotado de una pieza de ropa.
CN102471961B (zh) * 2009-07-09 2013-11-27 株式会社岛精机制作所 具有袖和身片的针织品及其编织方法
DE102010012151B4 (de) * 2010-03-20 2013-08-01 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Kg Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Schlauch-Rund-Fertiggestricks
DE102011012767A1 (de) * 2010-09-18 2012-03-22 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Kg Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Schlauchgestricks
CN103628238B (zh) * 2013-12-04 2015-03-25 宁波慈星股份有限公司 一种鞋面花型的编织方法
CN112176517B (zh) * 2020-09-30 2021-11-30 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 一种提高横机全成型服装编织效率的编织方法
CN112609308B (zh) * 2020-12-15 2022-06-14 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 一种改善全成型插肩服装sp领型结构的编织方法

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH0765258B2 (ja) 1990-07-17 1995-07-12 株式会社島精機製作所 編地の端部処理方法
US5826445A (en) 1996-02-09 1998-10-27 Shima Seiki Manufacturing Ltd. Knitting method on a flat knitting machine and a knit fabric thus produced
WO2001004398A1 (fr) 1999-07-13 2001-01-18 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Procede de couture d'ourlets avec une excellente aptitude a l'etirage

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CN100482872C (zh) 2009-04-29
CN1605670A (zh) 2005-04-13
EP1522616A1 (fr) 2005-04-13

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