EP1918438B1 - Méthode pour la production d'un article de tricot tubulaire sans couture avec la technique du vanisage - Google Patents

Méthode pour la production d'un article de tricot tubulaire sans couture avec la technique du vanisage Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1918438B1
EP1918438B1 EP06022367A EP06022367A EP1918438B1 EP 1918438 B1 EP1918438 B1 EP 1918438B1 EP 06022367 A EP06022367 A EP 06022367A EP 06022367 A EP06022367 A EP 06022367A EP 1918438 B1 EP1918438 B1 EP 1918438B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stitches
knitted
needles
row
edge
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Fee Related
Application number
EP06022367A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP1918438A1 (fr
Inventor
Thomas Nonnenmacher
Francesco Collura
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Original Assignee
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by H Stoll GmbH and Co KG filed Critical H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Priority to EP06022367A priority Critical patent/EP1918438B1/fr
Priority to DE502006006724T priority patent/DE502006006724D1/de
Priority to CN2007101679325A priority patent/CN101168883B/zh
Publication of EP1918438A1 publication Critical patent/EP1918438A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1918438B1 publication Critical patent/EP1918438B1/fr
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/106—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114—Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for producing a tubular round finished knit in plating on a flat knitting machine with at least two opposing needle beds.
  • Plain smooth flat knits made by plating have an inner side formed by a plating yarn and an outer side formed by a main yarn.
  • the plating thread and the ground thread are usually of different quality and often of different colors.
  • Tubular Rund-Fertiggestricke, which are formed in plating have wherever the thread guide changes its direction of movement, d. H. especially on the side edges of the torso parts and the sleeves so-called plating error. These stir u. a. therefore, that the yarn guide moving away from the fabric contracts the stitches of the edge needles and thereby reduces the edge stitches. In these reduced mesh often the plating thread is no longer covered by the ground thread and is therefore visible from the outside.
  • Plattierminus These different-colored looking or a different yarn structure having edge stitches are referred to as so-called Plattierminus.
  • the present invention has for its object to develop a method for producing a round tube Rundundgestick in plating, which has no Plattiercons.
  • the object is achieved with a method for producing a tubular Rund-Fertiggestricks in plating on a flat knitting machine with at least two opposing needle beds, which is characterized in that at least those stitches, after the formation of the knitting direction is changed, in particular the edge stitches of the knitted fabric , At least in every second row by Um psychologyvortician initially be increased so that they have the same size in the finished fabric as the other stitches of the knitted fabric.
  • the stitches are enlarged by transfer operations from needle to needle.
  • the wrapping can be done laterally on another needle of the same needle bed or preferably on a needle of the opposite needle bed.
  • the hanging creates a stretching of the stitch.
  • the stitches can be transferred to the opposite needle bed at least in every other row of knits and formed as a left stitch. This creates a visible as a seam imitation stripes on the side edges of the knitted fabric.
  • Such seam imitations are often desirable and are also used in tubular round finished knits which are not made in plating technique.
  • the edge stitches can be knit in each row or only in every other row as a left stitch. Accordingly, the seam imitations get a different character. In both cases, however, the edge stitches brought to their original size by the draping operation are sufficient to avoid plating errors in all knitting rows.
  • stitches can be formed only with every second needle at least in these edge regions. This results in free needles on which the stitches of the opposing needle bed can be transferred to form the links mesh described above.
  • seam imitations even through seams outside the edges of the knitted fabric.
  • Such seams come into question in particular at the joints between the sleeves and the body part.
  • the seam imitations lying outside the edge regions can expediently be produced in the same way as the edge regions.
  • the seam imitations of the entire knitted fabric then have a uniform character.
  • such seams can also be made in other parts of the body or on the sleeves.
  • a continuous reduction of the knit width and an enlargement of the edge stitches are performed by Umitativortician shoulder seams in the connection area of the sleeves to the body part by left stitching and smooth right-knitted areas formed on the sleeves and in the body part and the Ausdeckmuster in the front and back.
  • a tubular round-finished knit which is produced by a method according to the invention, has at least in the edge regions umge certifiede mesh. These suspended stitches can preferably be left stitches. This allows the production of a seam imitation.
  • the knitted piece can also have such seam imitations outside the edge regions.
  • the fabric may also include at least one cover pattern area or other pattern areas.
  • Fig. 1 shows a sweater formed as a tubular Rund-Fertiggestrick that can be completely formed on a flat knitting machine.
  • the sweater 1 is made in plating, ie for its production, everyone on Knitting involved needle at least two different knitting threads fed to the stitch formation.
  • the sequence of knitting processes for forming the tubular round finished knitted fabric 1 corresponds to the prior art. It is started with three individual tubular knitted fabric, the body portion 10, the left sleeve 20 and the right sleeve 30. For each of the three tubes 10, 20, 30, the knitting threads are fed via separate thread guides. From the connecting regions VB, VB ', from which the left sleeve 20 and the right sleeve 30 are connected to the body part 10, the knit is developed as a single tubular knitwear 50. In this area, the knitting threads are fed as a rule by a thread guide.
  • connection region VB Up to the connection region VB follow on the left sleeve 20 on the Rippbündchen 21, 21 'on the outside of the sleeve, an edge region 22, 22' and on the inner sleeve side edge region 23, 23 ', again the reference numerals without a dash the edge region for the sleeve front side 20' and Similarly, the right sleeve 30 is also provided with edge portions 32, 32 'and 33, 33' on the outside of the sleeve and the inside of the sleeve Edge regions formed with a predetermined number of needles and only with every other needle left mesh.
  • the knitted piece 1 is further knitted as a tube 50.
  • edge regions 14, 14 'and 15, 15' are on the side edges of the tube 50. Between the edge regions 14, 14 'and 15, 15' are on the front 50 'and the rear side 50 "of the hose 50 with all needles legal stitches formed.
  • All edge regions 12, 12 '; 13, 13 '; 14, 14 '; 15, 15 '; 22, 22 '; 23, 23 '; 32, 32 '; 33, 33 ' have primarily a technical function and secondarily an optical function.
  • these stitches must first be transferred to the other needle bed. After the links have been formed, these are hung back onto the needle bed, on which the stitches of this knit row are located.
  • This Um assertvorgang the stitches of the edge regions, these edge stitches, which are smaller due to the thread tension than the other stitches of the knitting line, widened and thus have the same size as the other stitches of the knitting line.
  • the transfer operation and the resulting increase in stitch size ensure that the plating thread is securely covered by the basic thread.
  • Fig. 2 shows the course of stitches for the knitted piece 1 Fig. 1 in the area of the line AA.
  • the knitted piece 1 consists in this area of three tubes, the body portion 10, the left sleeve 20 and the right sleeve 30.
  • the front sides 10 ', 20', 30 'of the tubes 10, 20, 30 are on the front needle bed V and the Rear sides 10 ", 20" and 30 "are formed on the rear needle bed H.
  • all stitches are formed with all needles
  • Also for the edge regions 22, 23, 32, 33 on the front sides of the sleeves 20, 30 and the edge regions 22 ', 23', 32 ', 33' on the rear sides of the sleeves 20, 30 are with every second needle has left stitches, and in all border areas, the left stitches can alternate with stitches from row to row.
  • Fig. 3 shows the course of stitches for the knitted piece 1 Fig. 1 in the area of the line BB.
  • the knitted piece consists only of a single tube 50, which includes the two sleeve portions and the trunk area.
  • stitched seams are formed with every second needle 'on the hose back 50' also formed by knitting with each second needle left mesh.
  • right stitches are formed with each needle, and here again all the mesh stitches from row to row of stitches can alternate with right stitches.
  • Fig. 4 shows a second example of a tubular Rund-Fertiggestricks 2, which is also a sweater with the same contour as the sweater 1 Fig. 1 is.
  • the marginal areas 214, 214 ', 215, 215' and the suture imitations 216, 216 ', 217, 217' are again formed with every other needle, with each stitch forming needle knitting in each second row left stitches and in the rows between them stitching stitches ,
  • an overlay pattern or pattern is provided on the front and back of the body 210
  • This pattern and its contour are merely exemplary, the arrangement in the knit piece can be arbitrary, and it is also possible to form the cover pattern on the back side of the knit in a different contour than the cover pattern on the front of the knit.
  • Row R 0 shows the yarn path, when the edges 214, 214 'and 215, 215' and the seam imitation areas 216, 216 'and 217, 217' of the knitted piece are formed of left-hand stitches.
  • row R 01 shows the thread run, if in these areas, the knitted piece is formed from legal stitches.
  • each needle involved in the knitting operation of the back of the knit piece forms a loop. If previously on the needles 4, 6, 13, 15, 17, 25, 27, 29 and 36 and 38 left stitches have been formed for the front part of the knitted piece, they are hung back onto the front needle bed, which is indicated by arrows.
  • each needle involved in the knitting operation of the front side of the knit piece forms a stitch
  • the stitches of the needles 1, 3 and 37, 39 forming the knitted edges of the back of the knitted fabric and the stitches of the needles 10, 12, 14 and 26, 28, 30, which form the seam imitations of the back, are transferred to their opposite empty needles.
  • the transfer elements are first returned to their home position. Subsequently, the needles 1, 3 and 37, 39 form left stitches for the knitted edges of the back side of the knitted piece and the needles 10, 12, 14 and 26, 28, 30 form left stitches for the seaming imitations of the back side of the knitted piece.
  • the needles form 5 to 8 and 32 to 35 stitches for the sleeves and the needles 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 24 right stitches and the needles 18, 20, 22 tuck loops for the rear of the body part of the knitted piece.
  • row R 7 the stitches of the back side of the fabric piece formed on the front needle bed are hung back onto their opposite needles of the back needle bed, before in row R 8 the stitches of the needles 19, 21, 23 covering the front side cover pattern form the knitted piece, be taken over by these needles associated transfer elements.
  • row R 9 an offset of the transfer elements takes place from its basic position about a needle to the right.
  • the transfer elements then transfer the stitches to the needles 20, 22, 24, which are located to the right of the original needles of these stitches.
  • the needles 19, 21, 23 of the front needle bed become free of stitches.
  • the stitches of the needles 2, 4 and 38, 40 which form the knitted edges of the front side of the knitted piece, and the stitches of the needles 11, 13, 15 and 27, 29, 31, which form the seaming imitations of the same knitted fabric, umge4.000 on their opposite needles, before in series R 11, the needles 2, 4 and 38, 40 links stitches for the knitted edges of the front of the knitted piece and the needles 11, 13, 15 and 27, 29, 31 left stitches for the seaming imitations of the front of the knitted piece form.
  • the needles 6 to 9 and 33 to 36 form the Vintagechen the sleeve
  • the needles 17, 18, 20, 22, 24, 25 form right-stitches
  • the needles 19, 21, 23 form tuck loops for the body part of the front of the knitted piece.
  • row R 12 the transfer elements are brought to their basic position.
  • the stitches of the front of the knit piece formed on the back needle bed are hung back on their opposite needles of the front needle bed.
  • the row R 13 is identical to the row R 1, the first knitting series of the knitting sequence.
  • row R 14 are from the right rear side of the knitted fabric, the stitches of the needles 1, 3, ie the knitted edge, the stitches of the needles 5 to 8, ie the sleeve, the stitches of the needles 10, 12, 14, ie the seamed imitations and Meshes of the needles 16, 17 of the body part taken from these needles associated transfer elements.
  • the stitches of the needles 38, 40 ie the knit edge, the stitches of the needles 33 to 36, ie the sleeve, the stitches of the needles 27, 29, 31, ie the seams and the needles 24, 25 taken over of the body part of these needles associated transfer elements.
  • the transfer elements associated with the needles of the rear needle bed are offset by two needles to the right, and the transfer elements associated with the needles of the front needle bed are offset by two needles to the left.
  • the stitches of the right rear side of the knitted fabric are transferred from the transfer elements to needles of the rear needle bed and the stitches of the left front side of the knitting fabric located on the transfer elements to needles of the front needle bed.
  • the knitted piece on the right back and on the left front each reduced by two stitches.
  • R 16 row which is identical to the R 4 row.
  • row R 17 the stitches of the knit edges of the back of the knit piece and the stitches of the stitches of the seam are transferred to their opposite empty needles of the front needle bed.
  • row R 18 the transfer elements are brought into their basic position.
  • left stitches are formed for the knitted edges of the back side of the knitted piece and for the seam imitations of the back side of the knitted piece, as well as stitches for the sleeves and the back of the trunk piece.
  • row R 19 which is identical to the row R 7, before in row R 20 from the right front of the knitted piece, the stitches of the knitted edges, the stitches of the sleeves, the stitches of the stitches and the stitches stitches of needles 17, 18 of the body part be taken over by the respective needles associated transfer elements.
  • row R 22 the stitches of the knit edges and the seam imitations of the front of the knit piece are transferred to their opposite empty needles of the back needle bed. Subsequently, these needles in row R 23 form lefthand stitches for the fabric edges and seam imitations of the front side of the fabric Knitted fabric and the intervening needles right-hand stitching for the sleeves and the front of the body part.
  • the knitting sequence of the rows R 1 to R 23 is repeated until the knitted piece is completed or arise in the height repeat pattern due to different knitting conditions.
  • this knitting sequence provides optimal production possibilities for a knitting machine with at least three knitting systems, wherein in each carriage stroke all three knitting systems are in operation.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Claims (8)

  1. Procédé de production d'un article (1) de tricot tubulaire sans couture dans la technique du vanisage sur un métier à tricoter rectiligne ayant au moins deux foulures d'aiguilles opposées, caractérisé en ce que l'on agrandit d'abord au moins les mailles, après la formation desquelles le sens de tricotage est modifié, notamment les mailles de bord du tricot, au moins dans une rangée sur deux, par des opérations de report de manière à ce qu'elles aient dans le tricot fini la même dimension que les autres mailles du tricot.
  2. Procédé suivant la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce qu'on reporte les mailles au moins dans une rangée sur deux sur la fonture d'aiguilles opposée et on les tricote en mailles retournées.
  3. Procédé suivant la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins dans les parties (12, 12', 13, 13', 14, 14', 15, 15', 22, 22', 23, 23' , 32, 32', 33, 33') de bord du tricot on ne forme des mailles qu'avec une aiguille sur deux.
  4. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce que, aussi en dehors des parties (12, 12', 13, 13', 14, 14', 15, 15', 22, 22', 23, 23',32, 32', 33, 33') de bord du tricot, on produit des imitations (16, 16', 17, 17') de couture par des mailles retournées.
  5. Procédé suivant la revendication 4, caractérisé en ce que l'on produit les imitations (16, 16', 17, 17') de couture à l'extérieur des parties de bord de la même façon qu'en dehors des parties (12, 12', 13, 13', 14, 14', 15, 15', 22, 22', 23, 23',32, 32', 33, 33') de bord.
  6. Procédé suivant la revendication 4 ou 5, caractérisé en ce que l'on produit les imitations (16, 16', 17, 17') de couture dans la partie de liaison de manches (20, 30) sur une partie (10) de tronc.
  7. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisé en ce que, pour produire un tricot (2) ayant un modèle (1) de recouvrement dans la partie avant et dans la partie arrière dans la partie des épaules, on effectue une diminution continue de la largeur du tricot et un agrandissement des mailles de bord par des opérations de report, on forme des imitations de couture dans la partie de raccordement des manches (2) sur la partie (210, 210') de tronc par des mailles reportées et on forme des parties tricotées unies sur les manches (202, 203, 202', 203') et dans la partie (210, 210') de tronc, ainsi que le modèle (260, 260') de recouvrement dans la partie avant et dans la partie arrière.
  8. Procédé suivant la revendication 7, caractérisé en ce que on l'effectue sur un métier à tricoter rectiligne ayant trois systèmes de tricotage.
EP06022367A 2006-10-26 2006-10-26 Méthode pour la production d'un article de tricot tubulaire sans couture avec la technique du vanisage Expired - Fee Related EP1918438B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP06022367A EP1918438B1 (fr) 2006-10-26 2006-10-26 Méthode pour la production d'un article de tricot tubulaire sans couture avec la technique du vanisage
DE502006006724T DE502006006724D1 (de) 2006-10-26 2006-10-26 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Schlauch-Rund-Fertiggestricks in Plattiertechnik
CN2007101679325A CN101168883B (zh) 2006-10-26 2007-10-26 利用添纱针织技术制作圆筒形成品针织物的方法

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP06022367A EP1918438B1 (fr) 2006-10-26 2006-10-26 Méthode pour la production d'un article de tricot tubulaire sans couture avec la technique du vanisage

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1918438A1 EP1918438A1 (fr) 2008-05-07
EP1918438B1 true EP1918438B1 (fr) 2010-04-14

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EP06022367A Expired - Fee Related EP1918438B1 (fr) 2006-10-26 2006-10-26 Méthode pour la production d'un article de tricot tubulaire sans couture avec la technique du vanisage

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EP (1) EP1918438B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN101168883B (fr)
DE (1) DE502006006724D1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP5567565B2 (ja) * 2009-07-09 2014-08-06 株式会社島精機製作所 袖と身頃を有するニットウェアおよびその編成方法
JP5349357B2 (ja) * 2010-02-03 2013-11-20 株式会社島精機製作所 プレーティング編成方法
CN102071525A (zh) * 2010-09-13 2011-05-25 宁波普罗蒂电脑横机有限公司 一种科学的织可穿编织技术工艺
JP5865748B2 (ja) * 2012-03-23 2016-02-17 株式会社島精機製作所 横編機による編地の編成方法
JP5940411B2 (ja) * 2012-08-08 2016-06-29 株式会社島精機製作所 編地の編成方法
JP6518608B2 (ja) * 2016-03-01 2019-05-22 株式会社島精機製作所 筒状編地の編成方法
US20210189615A1 (en) * 2018-06-26 2021-06-24 Seiren Co., Ltd. Circular knitted fabric
JP7434035B2 (ja) * 2020-04-01 2024-02-20 株式会社島精機製作所 筒状編地の編成方法
CN113073418B (zh) * 2021-03-05 2022-05-10 江南大学 一种控制筒状织物边缘线圈大小均匀的编织方法
CN113756000B (zh) * 2021-08-03 2022-11-25 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 改善全成型条纹交替效果的编织方法及其织物
CN114808253B (zh) * 2022-05-21 2023-09-19 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 全成型平肩圆领服装左肩部纱嘴线头带出结构的编织方法

Family Cites Families (4)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB566096A (en) * 1943-06-07 1944-12-13 Cotton Ltd W Method of widening on a straight bar knitting machine, and the product thereof
GB572908A (en) * 1943-09-06 1945-10-29 Edwin Wildt Knitted fabric and machines for producing same
TW483962B (en) * 2000-02-29 2002-04-21 Shima Seiki Mfg Method of knitting plating of tubular knitting fabric by four-sheet bed weft knifting machine
JP4180527B2 (ja) * 2004-01-30 2008-11-12 株式会社島精機製作所 プレーティングによるワイドリブ組織の編成方法

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Publication number Publication date
EP1918438A1 (fr) 2008-05-07
CN101168883A (zh) 2008-04-30
DE502006006724D1 (de) 2010-05-27
CN101168883B (zh) 2011-03-09

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