EP1918438B1 - Method for producing a tubular flat knit fabric with the plating technique - Google Patents

Description

The invention relates to a method for producing a tubular round finished knit in plating on a flat knitting machine with at least two opposing needle beds.

Plain smooth flat knits made by plating have an inner side formed by a plating yarn and an outer side formed by a main yarn. The plating thread and the ground thread are usually of different quality and often of different colors. Tubular Rund-Fertiggestricke, which are formed in plating, have wherever the thread guide changes its direction of movement, d. H. especially on the side edges of the torso parts and the sleeves so-called plating error. These stir u. a. therefore, that the yarn guide moving away from the fabric contracts the stitches of the edge needles and thereby reduces the edge stitches. In these reduced mesh often the plating thread is no longer covered by the ground thread and is therefore visible from the outside. These different-colored looking or a different yarn structure having edge stitches are referred to as so-called Plattierfehler.

From the WO 2005/073445 A For example, a method of making a clad knitted circular knit structure using a four-needle bed knitting machine is known.

The present invention has for its object to develop a method for producing a round tube Rundundgestick in plating, which has no Plattierfehler.

The object is achieved with a method for producing a tubular Rund-Fertiggestricks in plating on a flat knitting machine with at least two opposing needle beds, which is characterized in that at least those stitches, after the formation of the knitting direction is changed, in particular the edge stitches of the knitted fabric , At least in every second row by Umhängevorgänge initially be increased so that they have the same size in the finished fabric as the other stitches of the knitted fabric.

Due to the increased formation of the critical stitches, which normally become visible as plating defects, the effect of contraction by the yarn guide can be counteracted. In the finished knitted fabric, these meshes, initially enlarged in size, are again the same size as the adjacent stitches due to the contraction by the yarn guide. As with these neighboring stitches, the plait thread is now completely covered by the ground thread on the edge stitches, so that plating defects are no longer visible in the fabric.

In a preferred variant of the method according to the invention, the stitches are enlarged by transfer operations from needle to needle. The wrapping can be done laterally on another needle of the same needle bed or preferably on a needle of the opposite needle bed. In both cases, the hanging creates a stretching of the stitch. Preferably, the stitches can be transferred to the opposite needle bed at least in every other row of knits and formed as a left stitch. This creates a visible as a seam imitation stripes on the side edges of the knitted fabric. Such seam imitations are often desirable and are also used in tubular round finished knits which are not made in plating technique. The edge stitches can be knit in each row or only in every other row as a left stitch. Accordingly, the seam imitations get a different character. In both cases, however, the edge stitches brought to their original size by the draping operation are sufficient to avoid plating errors in all knitting rows.

For recalibration of the stitches in the edge region of the knitted fabric, stitches can be formed only with every second needle at least in these edge regions. This results in free needles on which the stitches of the opposing needle bed can be transferred to form the links mesh described above.

Furthermore, it is possible to produce seam imitations even through seams outside the edges of the knitted fabric. Such seams come into question in particular at the joints between the sleeves and the body part. The seam imitations lying outside the edge regions can expediently be produced in the same way as the edge regions. The seam imitations of the entire knitted fabric then have a uniform character. Of course, other than in the areas of connection of the sleeves to the body part, such seams can also be made in other parts of the body or on the sleeves.

In a preferred variant of the method for producing a knit fabric with a cover pattern in the front and back, a continuous reduction of the knit width and an enlargement of the edge stitches are performed by Umhängevorgänge shoulder seams in the connection area of the sleeves to the body part by left stitching and smooth right-knitted areas formed on the sleeves and in the body part and the Ausdeckmuster in the front and back.

If this method is performed on a flat knitting machine with three knitting systems, then every knitting stroke will cause all the knitting systems to operate. H. achieved the optimal production conditions.

A tubular round-finished knit, which is produced by a method according to the invention, has at least in the edge regions umgehängte mesh. These suspended stitches can preferably be left stitches. This allows the production of a seam imitation. The knitted piece can also have such seam imitations outside the edge regions. Furthermore For example, the fabric may also include at least one cover pattern area or other pattern areas.

In the following, knitted fabrics according to the invention and methods for their production will be described in more detail with reference to the drawing.

Fig. 1

eine schematische Darstellung eines ersten erfindungsgemäßen Gestrickstücks;

Fig. 2

einen Maschenverlauf des Gestrickstücks aus Fig. 1 in der Strickreihe entlang der Linie A-A in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3

einen Maschenverlauf des Gestrickstücks aus Fig. 1 in der Strickreihe entlang der Linie B-B in Fig. 1;

Fig. 4

eine schematische Darstellung eines zweiten erfindungsge- mäßen Gestrickstücks;

Fig. 5.1 - 5.9

einen Maschenverlauf zur Herstellung des Gestrickstücks aus Fig. 4 im Schulterbereich ab der Linie C-C in Fig. 4.

In detail show:

Fig. 1

a schematic representation of a first knit piece according to the invention;

Fig. 2

a stitch course of the knitted piece Fig. 1 in the row of knits along the line AA in Fig. 1 ;

Fig. 3

a stitch course of the knitted piece Fig. 1 in the row of knits along the line BB in Fig. 1 ;

Fig. 4

a schematic representation of a second inventive knitted piece;

Fig. 5.1 - 5.9

a stitch course for the production of the knitted piece Fig. 4 in the shoulder area from the line CC in Fig. 4 ,

Fig. 1 shows a sweater formed as a tubular Rund-Fertiggestrick that can be completely formed on a flat knitting machine. The sweater 1 is made in plating, ie for its production, everyone on Knitting involved needle at least two different knitting threads fed to the stitch formation.

The sequence of knitting processes for forming the tubular round finished knitted fabric 1 corresponds to the prior art. It is started with three individual tubular knitted fabric, the body portion 10, the left sleeve 20 and the right sleeve 30. For each of the three tubes 10, 20, 30, the knitting threads are fed via separate thread guides. From the connecting regions VB, VB ', from which the left sleeve 20 and the right sleeve 30 are connected to the body part 10, the knit is developed as a single tubular knitwear 50. In this area, the knitting threads are fed as a rule by a thread guide.

In the example shown are at the bottom of the body part 10 and the sleeves 20, 30 each ribbed cuffs. Up to the connection points VB, VB 'of the sleeves 20, 30 with the body part 10 follows on the fuselage part 10 on the Rippbündchen 11, 11' on both sides of the body part 10, an edge region 12, 12 'and 13, 13', in with a predetermined number of needles and only with every other needle left stitches are formed. 12 is the left edge of the body part 10 on the front side, with 12 'on the rear side, with 13 the right edge on the front side and with 13' the right edge on the rear side of the body part 10. Between the edge regions 12, 12 'and 13, 13' of the front 10 'and the rear 10 "of the body part 10 are formed with all needles Rechtsmaschen.

Up to the connection region VB follow on the left sleeve 20 on the Rippbündchen 21, 21 'on the outside of the sleeve, an edge region 22, 22' and on the inner sleeve side edge region 23, 23 ', again the reference numerals without a dash the edge region for the sleeve front side 20' and Similarly, the right sleeve 30 is also provided with edge portions 32, 32 'and 33, 33' on the outside of the sleeve and the inside of the sleeve Edge regions formed with a predetermined number of needles and only with every other needle left mesh.

Between the edge regions of the front and rear side 20 ', 20 "of the left sleeve 20 and the front and rear side 30', 30" of the right sleeve 30 are formed with all needles Rechtsmaschen.

Above the connecting regions VB, VB 'between the sleeves 20, 30 and the body part 10, the knitted piece 1 is further knitted as a tube 50. Now there are only two edge regions 14, 14 'and 15, 15' on the side edges of the tube 50. Between the edge regions 14, 14 'and 15, 15' are on the front 50 'and the rear side 50 "of the hose 50 with all needles legal stitches formed.

All edge regions 12, 12 '; 13, 13 '; 14, 14 '; 15, 15 '; 22, 22 '; 23, 23 '; 32, 32 '; 33, 33 'have primarily a technical function and secondarily an optical function. To make the left stitches in the edge areas, these stitches must first be transferred to the other needle bed. After the links have been formed, these are hung back onto the needle bed, on which the stitches of this knit row are located. By this Umhängevorgang the stitches of the edge regions, these edge stitches, which are smaller due to the thread tension than the other stitches of the knitting line, widened and thus have the same size as the other stitches of the knitting line. In the case of stitches formed by plating, the transfer operation and the resulting increase in stitch size ensure that the plating thread is securely covered by the basic thread.

Visually, with the stitches of the edge region, which are formed in each or every other row as a left-hand stitching, side seams are mimicked, as they are present at knitted fabric pieces composed of flat part-knitted fabrics. Such seam imitations can be made in the tubular round-finished knitted fabric 1 except in the edge regions, for example in the areas 16, 16 'and 17, 17' in order to imitate a seam between the sleeves 20, 30 and the body part 10.

Fig. 2 shows the course of stitches for the knitted piece 1 Fig. 1 in the area of the line AA. The knitted piece 1 consists in this area of three tubes, the body portion 10, the left sleeve 20 and the right sleeve 30. The front sides 10 ', 20', 30 'of the tubes 10, 20, 30 are on the front needle bed V and the Rear sides 10 ", 20" and 30 "are formed on the rear needle bed H. In each case, all stitches are formed with all needles For the edge regions 12, 13 of the front side 10 'of the body part 10 and for the edge regions 12', 13 'of its rear side Also for the edge regions 22, 23, 32, 33 on the front sides of the sleeves 20, 30 and the edge regions 22 ', 23', 32 ', 33' on the rear sides of the sleeves 20, 30 are with every second needle has left stitches, and in all border areas, the left stitches can alternate with stitches from row to row.

Fig. 3 shows the course of stitches for the knitted piece 1 Fig. 1 in the area of the line BB. Here, the knitted piece consists only of a single tube 50, which includes the two sleeve portions and the trunk area. At the edge regions 14, 15 of the front side 50 'of the tube 50 and the edge regions 14', 15 'of its rear side 50 ", stitched seams are formed with every second needle 'on the hose back 50' also formed by knitting with each second needle left mesh. In all other areas of the front and rear sides 50 'and 50 "of the tube 50, right stitches are formed with each needle, and here again all the mesh stitches from row to row of stitches can alternate with right stitches.

Fig. 4 shows a second example of a tubular Rund-Fertiggestricks 2, which is also a sweater with the same contour as the sweater 1 Fig. 1 is. The marginal areas 214, 214 ', 215, 215' and the suture imitations 216, 216 ', 217, 217' are again formed with every other needle, with each stitch forming needle knitting in each second row left stitches and in the rows between them stitching stitches , Between the border areas At the front and back of the sleeves 202, 202 ', 203, 203' and the body portion 210 ', 210 ", stitches are formed with each needle, and in the shoulder portion of the fabric 2, an overlay pattern or pattern is provided on the front and back of the body 210 This pattern and its contour are merely exemplary, the arrangement in the knit piece can be arbitrary, and it is also possible to form the cover pattern on the back side of the knit in a different contour than the cover pattern on the front of the knit.

In the Fig. 5.1 to 5.9 Now, the course of stitching for the production of the knitted fabric 2 in the shoulder region, which is indicated by the line CC in FIG Fig. 4 is indicated explained. In this area, in addition to the plating technique, the following knitting techniques are used: Continuous reduction of the knit width, knitted edges and seam imitation areas in which stitches are formed with only every other needle and alternating with left stitches in each course stitching, smooth knit areas (right stitches) on the sleeves and on the Hull and a Ausdeckmuster in the trunk area.

Row R 0 shows the yarn path, when the edges 214, 214 'and 215, 215' and the seam imitation areas 216, 216 'and 217, 217' of the knitted piece are formed of left-hand stitches. In contrast, row R 01 shows the thread run, if in these areas, the knitted piece is formed from legal stitches.

In row R 1, each needle involved in the knitting operation of the back of the knit piece forms a loop. If previously on the needles 4, 6, 13, 15, 17, 25, 27, 29 and 36 and 38 left stitches have been formed for the front part of the knitted piece, they are hung back onto the front needle bed, which is indicated by arrows.

In row R 2, the stitches of the needles 18, 20, 22, which form the cover pattern of the back side of the knitted piece, are taken over by transfer elements assigned to these needles, which is indicated by double arrows. Subsequently, in row R 3, the transfer elements from their home position from one needle to the left and pass the stitches from the transfer elements to the needles 17, 19, 21 of the rear needle bed, which are located to the left of the original needles of these stitches. The needles 18, 20, 22 of the rear needle bed have become free.

In row R 4, each needle involved in the knitting operation of the front side of the knit piece forms a stitch, before in row R 5 the stitches of the needles 1, 3 and 37, 39 forming the knitted edges of the back of the knitted fabric and the stitches of the needles 10, 12, 14 and 26, 28, 30, which form the seam imitations of the back, are transferred to their opposite empty needles.

In row R 6, the transfer elements are first returned to their home position. Subsequently, the needles 1, 3 and 37, 39 form left stitches for the knitted edges of the back side of the knitted piece and the needles 10, 12, 14 and 26, 28, 30 form left stitches for the seaming imitations of the back side of the knitted piece. On the back needle bed, the needles form 5 to 8 and 32 to 35 stitches for the sleeves and the needles 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 24 right stitches and the needles 18, 20, 22 tuck loops for the rear of the body part of the knitted piece.

In row R 7, the stitches of the back side of the fabric piece formed on the front needle bed are hung back onto their opposite needles of the back needle bed, before in row R 8 the stitches of the needles 19, 21, 23 covering the front side cover pattern form the knitted piece, be taken over by these needles associated transfer elements. Subsequently, in row R 9, an offset of the transfer elements takes place from its basic position about a needle to the right. The transfer elements then transfer the stitches to the needles 20, 22, 24, which are located to the right of the original needles of these stitches. As a result, the needles 19, 21, 23 of the front needle bed become free of stitches.

In the row R 10, the stitches of the needles 2, 4 and 38, 40, which form the knitted edges of the front side of the knitted piece, and the stitches of the needles 11, 13, 15 and 27, 29, 31, which form the seaming imitations of the same knitted fabric, umgehängt on their opposite needles, before in series R 11, the needles 2, 4 and 38, 40 links stitches for the knitted edges of the front of the knitted piece and the needles 11, 13, 15 and 27, 29, 31 left stitches for the seaming imitations of the front of the knitted piece form. The needles 6 to 9 and 33 to 36 form the Rechtsmaschen the sleeve, the needles 17, 18, 20, 22, 24, 25 form right-stitches and the needles 19, 21, 23 form tuck loops for the body part of the front of the knitted piece.

In row R 12, the transfer elements are brought to their basic position. The stitches of the front of the knit piece formed on the back needle bed are hung back on their opposite needles of the front needle bed. The row R 13 is identical to the row R 1, the first knitting series of the knitting sequence. In row R 14 are from the right rear side of the knitted fabric, the stitches of the needles 1, 3, ie the knitted edge, the stitches of the needles 5 to 8, ie the sleeve, the stitches of the needles 10, 12, 14, ie the seamed imitations and Meshes of the needles 16, 17 of the body part taken from these needles associated transfer elements. From the left front side of the knitted piece, the stitches of the needles 38, 40, ie the knit edge, the stitches of the needles 33 to 36, ie the sleeve, the stitches of the needles 27, 29, 31, ie the seams and the needles 24, 25 taken over of the body part of these needles associated transfer elements. Subsequently, in row R 15, the transfer elements associated with the needles of the rear needle bed are offset by two needles to the right, and the transfer elements associated with the needles of the front needle bed are offset by two needles to the left. Thereafter, the stitches of the right rear side of the knitted fabric are transferred from the transfer elements to needles of the rear needle bed and the stitches of the left front side of the knitting fabric located on the transfer elements to needles of the front needle bed. As a result, the knitted piece on the right back and on the left front each reduced by two stitches.

This is followed by the R 16 row, which is identical to the R 4 row. In row R 17, the stitches of the knit edges of the back of the knit piece and the stitches of the stitches of the seam are transferred to their opposite empty needles of the front needle bed.

In row R 18 the transfer elements are brought into their basic position. In addition, left stitches are formed for the knitted edges of the back side of the knitted piece and for the seam imitations of the back side of the knitted piece, as well as stitches for the sleeves and the back of the trunk piece. It is followed by the row R 19, which is identical to the row R 7, before in row R 20 from the right front of the knitted piece, the stitches of the knitted edges, the stitches of the sleeves, the stitches of the stitches and the stitches stitches of needles 17, 18 of the body part be taken over by the respective needles associated transfer elements. In the same way, from the left rear side of the knitted fabric, the stitches of the knitted edges, the stitches of the seam and the stitches of the needles 23, 24 of the body part are taken over by the needles associated with transfer elements. Subsequently, in row R 21, an offset of the transfer elements with the stitches of the front needle bed by two needles to the right and the transfer elements with the stitches of the rear needle bed by two needles to the left. Thereafter, the stitches are transferred from the transfer elements to the needles now opposed to the transfer elements, whereby the stitches of the right front side of the fabric piece subsequently hang on needles of the front needle bed and the stitches of the left back side of the fabric piece on needles of the rear needle bed. By this measure, the knitted piece on the right front and left back has been reduced by two stitches in width.

In row R 22, the stitches of the knit edges and the seam imitations of the front of the knit piece are transferred to their opposite empty needles of the back needle bed. Subsequently, these needles in row R 23 form lefthand stitches for the fabric edges and seam imitations of the front side of the fabric Knitted fabric and the intervening needles right-hand stitching for the sleeves and the front of the body part.

The knitting sequence of the rows R 1 to R 23 is repeated until the knitted piece is completed or arise in the height repeat pattern due to different knitting conditions.

As in the Fig. 5.1 to 5.9 indicated by arrows on the right of the knitting rows shown, this knitting sequence provides optimal production possibilities for a knitting machine with at least three knitting systems, wherein in each carriage stroke all three knitting systems are in operation.

Claims (8)

1. Method for manufacturing a finished tubular knitted article (1) using the plating technique on a flat-bed knitting machine with at least two beds of needles placed opposite each other, characterised in that at least those stitches, especially the edge stitches of the article, after whose creation the knitting direction changes, are initially enlarged by transfer processes at least in every second row, such that they are the same size in the finished knitted article as the other stitches of the knitted article.
2. Method according to Claim 1, characterised in that the stitches of at least every second row are transferred to the opposite needle bed and are knitted as reverse stitches.
3. Method according to Claim 1 or 2, characterised in that stitches are knitted only with every second needle, at least in the edge areas (12, 12'; 13, 13'; 14, 14'; 15, 15'; 22, 22'; 23, 23'; 32, 32'; 33, 33') of the knitted article.
4. Method according to one of Claims 1 to 3, characterised in that imitation seams (16, 16'; 17, 17') are also made by reverse stitches, away from the edge areas (12, 12'; 13, 13'; 14, 14'; 15, 15'; 22, 22'; 23, 23'; 32, 32'; 33, 33') of the knitted article.
5. Method according to Claim 4, characterised in that the imitation seams (16, 16'; 17, 17') located away from the edge areas (12, 12'; 13, 13'; 14, 14'; 15, 15'; 22, 22'; 23, 23'; 32, 32'; 33, 33') are knitted in the same way as the edge areas (12, 12'; 13, 13'; 14, 14'; 15, 15'; 22, 22'; 23, 23'; 32, 32'; 33, 33').
6. Method according to Claim 4 or 5, characterised in that the imitation seams (16, 16'; 17, 17') are made in the area of the sleeves (20, 30) joining with a body section (10).
7. Method according to one of Claims 1 to 6, characterised in that in order to make a knitted article (2) with a relief pattern (260, 260') on the front and back at shoulder height, a continuous reduction of stitch width and an enlargement of the edge stitches are achieved by transfer processes, imitation seams are made with reverse stitches in the area of the sleeves (202, 203; 202', 203') joining with the body section (210, 210', 210"), and smooth plain knitted areas are made for the sleeves (202, 203; 202', 203') and body section (210, 210', 210") and the relief pattern (260, 260') on the front and back.
8. Method according to Claim 7, characterised in that this is achieved on a flat-bed knitting machine with three knitting systems.

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