EP2202339B1 - Chausson en mailles et son procédé de fabrication - Google Patents

Chausson en mailles et son procédé de fabrication Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2202339B1
EP2202339B1 EP20090015515 EP09015515A EP2202339B1 EP 2202339 B1 EP2202339 B1 EP 2202339B1 EP 20090015515 EP20090015515 EP 20090015515 EP 09015515 A EP09015515 A EP 09015515A EP 2202339 B1 EP2202339 B1 EP 2202339B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
edge
footlet
stitches
knitting
pocket
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EP20090015515
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP2202339A1 (fr
Inventor
Mike Oertel
Klaus Dr. Meier
Claudia-Susanne Franke
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Kunert Fashion GmbH
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KUNERT Fashion GmbH and Co KG
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Publication of EP2202339A1 publication Critical patent/EP2202339A1/fr
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/26—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel stockings
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/108—Gussets, e.g. pouches or heel or toe portions

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a footlet of knitwear, comprising a pocket or bag-like toe piece, a bag-like heel portion and a mid-section between the toes and the heel portion containing the sole, together defining an edge entry slot for a wearer's foot ,
  • the invention relates to a method for producing such a footlet.
  • Fashionable booties or short socks require that they cover and encase the foot of the wearer or wearer in the toe and heel area as well as along the sole, but that they are not visible from the outside as far as possible when the footwear is low-cut.
  • a firm grip of the footlet or sock must be ensured on the foot, in particular to prevent the footlet or the sock from being accidentally stripped over the heel when worn.
  • Simple booties which consist only of a round-knit hose, which is closed at one end by a seam, do not meet these requirements in the rule.
  • the FR-1 079 155 A1 discloses an improved embodiment of such a bootlet in such a way that the bootlet knitted as a simple tube and closed at its end by means of a seam approximately at half the height of the foot Hose is provided with a knitted bag, which is made by reducing and increasing mesh in the pendulum course of the circular knitting machine and which serves as a toe part in use for receiving the toes of the wearer.
  • the fabric can be cut in the area of the seam closing the hose before it is attached.
  • a basically similar footlet is finally from the EP 0 632 972 B1 known, having two oppositely arranged, each worked in the manner of a heel bag parts which are interconnected by a sole containing middle part in such a way that the connection between the individual parts is seamless and continuous, so that the whole footlet including its edge surrounding the manhole is completely seamless.
  • the present invention seeks to provide a knitted bootlet, even with a very large neckline, especially in the toe area, by a reliable hold distinguished at the foot of the wearer and the wearer and has a perfect fit.
  • the footlet according to the invention which is knitted seamlessly with a pocket-like toe part, a bag-like heel part and a middle part extending between the toe and heel parts, has a heel part knitted on the middle part, which worked in the manner of a bag open on one side and is closed by a seam which is arranged running transversely to the sole.
  • This seam may be a warp seam, a Rosso seam or another suitable seam, and in a preferred embodiment is located in the region of the sole. In certain embodiments, however, it may also be appropriate to arrange the transverse seam in the upper heel region near the edge.
  • the access opening of the footlet is advantageously limited by an elastic edge knitted onto the toe part and / or the heel part, while in the middle part at least a region of the edge bounding the entry opening is knitted with a substantially inelastic thread.
  • the new footlet can be formed with an extremely large neckline in the toe area of the wearer without degrading the fit. It was recognized that it is important to make the tip of the foot very elastic and the heel as inelastic as possible. This is achieved by the seam running transversely to the sole. In addition, the upper edge of the footlet usually allowed do not reach so high that it is visible from the outside with low-cut footwear. To achieve this, the transverse seam is laid down, ie in the area of the sole.
  • the bag-like heel part may be knitted in the manner of a known wedge heel by corresponding reduction and increase of stitches.
  • this embodiment of the heel bag results approximately in the middle of the heel bag on both sides of the foot in each case an outwardly extending reduction edge. Since the knits of the fabric are tightened at the ends of the reduction edge, beads arise at these points, which are occasionally undesirable. Also occur at the inner end of the abatement edge spikes in the stitch-forming yarns, which involve the risk of the formation of holes at these points in sensitive yarns.
  • a remedy and a substantial improvement of the fit of the footlet can be achieved by the heel part is working with a novel "inverted" reduction and increase, wherein the bag forming the heel part has two mitigation edges emanating from the areas of the edge of the manhole extend the sole to the ends of the transverse seam and on each side at an angle, for example, of 90 °, with each other. Unwanted accumulations of material in the heel area, which is usually exposed to particularly heavy abrasion, are thus avoided.
  • a pocket or bag-like toe piece is knitted by reducing and then increasing stitches in the pendulum run.
  • a middle part seamlessly connected to the toe piece, the sole of the footlet is knitted, to which a margin bordering the access opening for the wearer of the footlet is replaced by a system change using an inelastic thread, also in the Pendulum gear, is knitted.
  • middle part is followed by a pendulum gear with the needles of the first needle group diametrically opposite second needle group knitted preferably elastic edge of the heel part.
  • This edge consists of sub-mesh rows generated in the pendulum run in which, for example, an elastic thread is processed.
  • the bag-like heel part is knitted at the edge with the needles of the second group of needles in the pendulum motion, for example by reducing stitches in a conventional manner for the production of a known wedge heel and then be increased again.
  • At least one round running row of stitches is created, which surrounds the opening of the heel bag and which is preferably designed as a Kettelmaschensch and may optionally be followed by some also knitted in concentric rows of drapes.
  • the thus-knitted blank is closed at the adjoining the heel part all-round row of stitches by a seam which extends transversely to the sole of the footlet and is arranged in the sole region.
  • the footlet according to the invention can, as already mentioned, be formed with an extremely large cutout, especially in the toe area, which is particularly desired when wearing the footlet in ballerinas. Due to its large neckline, the bootlet disappears completely in the shoe. In addition, the footlet is characterized by a very good fit. As experience has shown, unexpectedly large forces are needed to "drop" the bootlet over the heel in use, despite having a very large neckline. Since the edge of the footlet around the manhole in the manufacture of the blank, as explained, is knitted with, the confection of the edge required in many known feet can be omitted.
  • the in the FIGS. 1, 2 schematically represented from knitwear footlet has a bag or bag-like toe part 1 and this also opposite pocket or bag-like heel part 2 and between the Wennspitzen- and the heel part 1, 2 extending, the sole 3 containing middle part 4 on.
  • the toe piece 1 is provided with a knitted elastic edge 5, which is followed by a likewise knitted, substantially inelastic edge 6 of the middle part 4, which is seamlessly connected to an elastic edge 7 which is knitted onto the heel piece 2.
  • the toe piece 1, the heel part 2 and the middle part 4 define with their edges 5, 7, 6 the manhole 8 for the foot of the wearer of the footlet.
  • the toe piece 1 is bag-like or bag-like worked in a known manner by reducing and subsequent increase of stitches when knitting in the pendulum motion of the circular knitting machine, wherein the resulting abatement edges on the two sides of the manhole 8 are designated 9.
  • the mitigation edges extend approximately from the edge 5 towards the toe.
  • the toe piece 1 is knitted so that the footlet is formed with an extremely large cutout 10 in the front region of the manhole 8.
  • This cutout 10 is essentially bounded by the elastic edge 5, which extends over an arc of about 180 ° and consists of some sub-stitch rows generated in the pendulum run, in which elastic thread material and / or rubber threads are contained.
  • the edge 6, which also consists of several rows of stitches, is essentially not elastic.
  • the edge 6 which also consists of several rows of stitches, is essentially not elastic.
  • only one HE yarn (Helanca) is processed without EL (elastane) or rubber threads.
  • the middle part 4 is knitted smooth and contains two mutually opposite incorporated markers 11, which serve as measuring points in quality control.
  • the seamlessly adjoining the middle part 4 heel part 2 is formed by reducing and increasing mesh bag-like. It may be designed in the manner of a known wedge heel, as described for example in "Albert Diebler, technology of circular knitting The circular knitting sock machine, Konradin Verlag". Alternatively, the bag-like heel part 2 can also be made with an "inverted” reduction and increase in stitches, as shown in FIGS. 5, 6 will be explained below.
  • the resulting mitigation lines or edges which extend from the edge 7 towards the sole 3 are in FIG FIG. 2 indicated at 12.
  • the first worked as an open bag heel part 2 is connected in the sole region with the central part by a transverse seam 13 which extends transversely to the sole 3 and is formed as Kettelnaht or Rosso seam or as a similar seam.
  • the transverse seam 13 is located at the end of the sole part 3 at the transition from the middle part 4 to the heel part 2. As out FIG. 2 to see lead the two mitigation edges 12 to the transverse seam 13 out.
  • the transverse seam 13 is provided which lies in the region of the sole 3 and is an essential feature for the stabilization of the heel.
  • the boundary of the footlet can be designed along the resulting optimal power line when wearing. Since the boundary of the access opening 8 composing the seamlessly adjoining edges 5, 7, 6 of the toe part 1, the middle part 4 and the heel part 2 consists of stitched stitches to the individual parts and is therefore also generated in the manufacture of the footlet, eliminates the need for certain known styles of feet confectioning the boundary.
  • the middle part 4 of a suitable yarn is knitted smoothly with the needles of the first group of needles in the pendulum run to the bag-like or bag-like toe piece 1 thus produced.
  • the elastic edge 6 in the edge region of the central part 4 by appropriate knitting system change in the pendulum run with knitted.
  • the edge 6 consists of several courses, in which, for example, helical thread is processed with tuck stitches.
  • the knitting operation is now continued with the knitting of the edge 7 which is knitted with needles of the second group of needles diametrically opposed to the needle cylinder of the circular knitting machine of the first group of needles.
  • the edge 7 consists of several courses in which a rubber thread is incorporated, so that the edge 7 is elastic.
  • the heel part 2 with the reduction and increase of the stitches is knitted in pendulum motion with the needles of the second group of needles and is therefore diametrically opposite the middle part 4 containing the sole 3, ie it is arranged rotated 180 ° on the needle cylinder with respect to the middle part.
  • the finished blank of the footlet is, like the FIGS. 3, 4 , show a substantially hose-like structure which is open on one side, in the region of the rows of stitches 15, 16 and which has an opening in the side of the access opening 8, which is surrounded by a boundary, which consists of the elastic edges 5, 7 and the inelastic edge 6 composed.
  • the tubular blank is closed along the Kettelmaschen Research Institute by the transverse to the sole 3 extending warp seam 13, wherein the rows of drains 16 are removed.
  • the transverse seam 13 formed as a warp seam runs the can also be designed as a Rosso seam or otherwise, at the end of the sole 3 at the transition from the middle part 4 to the heel part 2, as can be seen from the FIG. 2 can be seen.
  • the number of stitches in each row of stitches is incremented one at a time or in rows of stitches in the rows of stitches subsequently knitted in the pendulum run, ie stitches are taken according to stitches until a row of stitches or course group 19 is reached which has a maximum Mesh size, which in the present case corresponds to the number of needles in the circumferential region between 90 ° and 270 °.
  • This increase in the mesh number from the minimum value 18 to the maximum value 19 is in FIG. 6 indicated by an arrow 20.
  • the heel part 2 in the footlet according to the invention is thus characterized by an "inverted" reduction and increase.
  • This style is, as in FIG. 5 indicated, the actual heel bag 3 free of mitigation edges, so that he can adapt very well to the anatomical shape of the heel, whereby an excellent fit of the boot is achieved.
  • the reduction edges 12a run on both sides of the heel, as in FIG. 5 represented, on the edge of the actual heel bag. They each start from a common point 24 in the vicinity of the Kettelmaschensch 15 and include an angle 25 with each other, which is usually in the order of 75 ° to 90 °. From the point 24, the reduction edges 12a extend to the edge 7 and to the Kettelmaschensch 15, ie in the finished footlet to the transverse seam 13 out, like this FIG. 5 can be seen without further ado.
  • the bag-like heel piece 2 described can be used regardless of whether it is a wedge heel or with inverted reduction and increase the mesh is also knitted with the needles of the first group of needles subsequently to the middle part 4. This results in a tubular blank similar to that in FIG. 4 is shown, but with the difference that the knitted in the manner of an open bag heel part 2 is located on the side of the sole 3 of the middle part.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Socks And Pantyhose (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Claims (17)

  1. Chausson réalisé en un produit du type tricot comportant une partie pointe de pied (1) du genre poche ou sac, une partie talon (2) du genre sac et une partie médiane (4) qui s'étend entre la partie pointe de pied et la partie talon et qui comporte la semelle (3) par lesquelles est limitée en commun une ouverture d'entrée (8) destinée au pied d'un porteur, qui présente un bord (5, 7, 6), caractérisé en ce que la partie talon (2) travaillée à la manière d'un sac ouvert d'un côté, tricotée à la suite de la partie médiane (4), est fermée par une couture (13) qui est disposée de manière à s'étendre dans la semelle (3) ou dans la zone supérieure du talon à proximité du bord (7) en s'étendant transversalement à la semelle (3).
  2. Chausson selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que la couture (13) est une couture surjetée.
  3. Chausson selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que la couture (13) est une couture de remaillage.
  4. Chausson selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que le sac constituant la partie talon est limité au niveau de son ouverture fermée par une couture au moyen d'au moins un rang de mailles (15) qui s'étend circulairement autour de l'ouverture.
  5. Chausson selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que le sac qui forme la partie talon (2) présente deux bords de diminutions (12) partant chacun d'un emplacement situé à proximité du bord de l'ouverture d'entrée (8), lesquels s'étendent de chaque côté de la semelle (3) jusqu'aux extrémités de la couture transversale (13).
  6. Chausson selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que le sac formant la partie talon (2) est travaillé des deux côtés de la semelle (3) avec deux bords de diminutions (12a) qui parte chacun d'un emplacement (24) et dont l'un s'étend jusqu'au bord (7) de l'ouverture d'entrée et dont l'autre s'étend parallèlement à la couture (13) qui ferme le sac de talon.
  7. Chausson selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que l'ouverture d'entrée (8) est limitée par un bord élastique (5, 7) tricoté à la suite de la partie pointe de pied (1) et/ou à la suite de la partie talon.
  8. Chausson selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que sur la partie médiane (4) au moins une zone du bord (6) tricoté à la suite de la partie médiane, limitant l'ouverture d'entrée (8), est réalisée de manière à ne pas être élastique.
  9. Chausson selon l'une des revendications qui précèdent caractérisé en ce qu'il présente une échancrure (10) de l'ouverture d'entrée (8) dans la zone de la partie pointe de pied (1).
  10. Chausson selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que la partie pointe de pied est réalisée de façon à être élastique.
  11. Procédé de fabrication d'un chausson selon la revendication 1 sur une machine à tricoter équipée d'un dispositif de diminution et d'augmentation, en particulier une machine à tricoter circulaire comportant deux groupes d'aiguilles qui peuvent être commandées séparément l'un de l'autre, dans lequel le chausson est tricoté en commençant par la pointe du pied, avec la séquence d'opérations suivantes :
    - tricotage du bord (5) de la partie pointe de pied (1) avec un premier groupe d'aiguilles, en fonctionnement pendulaire,
    - tricotage raccordé sans couture au bord (5), d'une partie pointe de pied (1) du genre poche ou sac avec le premier groupe d'aiguilles au moyen d'une diminution suivie d'une augmentation de mailles connues en elles-mêmes, en fonctionnement pendulaire,
    - tricotage raccordé sans couture d'une partie médiane (4) du chausson comportant la semelle (3) du chausson sur le premier groupe d'aiguilles,
    - tricotage raccordé sans couture d'un bord (7) pour la partie talon (2) sur un deuxième groupe d'aiguilles situé en face du premier groupe d'aiguilles, en fonctionnement pendulaire,
    - tricotage raccordé sans couture d'une partie talon (2) sous forme d'un sac ouvert d'un côté par diminution ou augmentation de mailles, en fonctionnement pendulaire sur le deuxième groupe d'aiguilles.
    - Tricotage d'au moins un rang de mailles (15) entourant circulairement l'ouverture de la partie talon du genre sac, et
    - Fermeture de l'ouverture de la partie talon du genre sac au moyen d'une couture (13) qui s'étend transversalement à la semelle (3).
  12. Procédé de fabrication d'un chausson selon la revendication 1 sur une machine à tricoter équipée d'un dispositif de diminution et d'augmentation, en particulier sur une machine à tricoter circulaire, qui comporte deux groupes d'aiguilles qui peuvent être commandés séparément l'un de l'autre, dans lequel procédé le chausson est tricoté en commençant par la pointe de pied, selon la séquence d'opérations qui suit :
    - tricotage du bord (5) de la partie pointe de pied (1) au moyen d'un premier groupe d'aiguilles, en fonctionnement pendulaire,
    - tricotage raccordé au bord sans couture d'une partie pointe de pied (1) du genre poche ou sac au moyen du premier groupe d'aiguilles à l'aide d'une diminution de mailles suivie d'une augmentation de mailles connues en elles-mêmes, en fonctionnement pendulaire,
    - tricotage raccordé sans couture d'une partie médiane (4) du chausson comportant la semelle (3) du chausson, en fonctionnement pendulaire sur le premier groupe d'aiguilles,
    - tricotage raccordé sans couture d'une partie talon (2) sous forme d'un sac ouvert d'un côté à l'aide d'une diminution de mailles suivie d'une augmentation de mailles, en fonctionnement pendulaire sur le premier groupe d'aiguilles,
    - tricotage d'un bord (7) pour la partie talon (2) sur un deuxième groupe d'aiguilles disposé en face du premier groupe d'aiguilles, en fonctionnement pendulaire,
    - tricotage d'au moins un rang de mailles (15) entourant circulairement l'ouverture de la partie talon (2) du genre sac, et
    - Fermeture de l'ouverture de la partie talon (2) du genre sac au moyen d'une couture (13) s'étendant transversalement à la semelle (3), dans la zone supérieure voisine du bord (7) de la partie talon (2).
  13. Procédé selon la revendication 11 ou 12 caractérisé en, ce qu'un bord (6) limitant l'ouverture d'entrée (8) est tricoté à la suite de la partie médiane dans la zone du bord, en fonctionnement pendulaire.
  14. Procédé selon la revendication 11 ou 12 caractérisé en ce que le bord (5) de la partie pointe de pied (1) et/ou le bord (7) de la partie talon (2) est réalisé de manière à être élastique.
  15. Procédé selon la revendication 14 caractérisé en ce que dans chacun des bords élastiques (5) ou (7) est tricoté un fil élastique.
  16. Procédé selon la revendication 13 caractérisé en ce que le bord (6) de la partie médiane (4) est réalisé de manière à ne pas être élastique.
  17. Procédé de fabrication d'un chausson selon la revendication 6 sur une machine à tricoter équipée d'un dispositif de diminution ou d'augmentation, en particulier sur une machine à tricoter circulaire, comportant deux groupes d'aiguilles pouvant être commandés séparément l'un de l'autre, dans lequel procédé le chausson est tricoté en commençant par la pointe du pied, comportant la séquence d'opérations qui suit :
    - tricotage du bord (5) de la partie pointe de pied (1) au moyen d'un premier groupe d'aiguilles, en fonctionnement pendulaire,
    - puis tricotage raccordé au bord sans couture d'une partie pointe de pied (1) du genre poche ou sac au moyen du premier groupe d'aiguilles à l'aide d'une diminution de mailles suivie d'une augmentation de mailles, connues en elles-mêmes, en fonctionnement pendulaire,
    - tricotage raccordé sans couture, d'une partie médiane (4) du chausson comportant la semelle (3) du chausson, sur le premier groupe d'aiguilles, en fonctionnement pendulaire,
    - tricotage raccordé sans couture d'un bord (7) destiné à la partie talon (2), sur un deuxième groupe d'aiguilles, situé en face du premier groupe d'aiguilles, en fonctionnement pendulaire,
    - tricotage raccordé sans couture d'une partie talon (2) se présentant sous la forme d'un sac ouvert d'un côté, à l'aide d'une diminution de mailles et d'une augmentation de mailles inversées, en fonctionnement pendulaire, sur le deuxième groupe d'aiguilles, le nombre de mailles (18) étant diminué dans un premier rang de mailles (14b) directement à partir d'un nombre de départ jusqu'à atteindre un nombre minimum de mailles prédéterminé (18), lequel est inférieur au nombre de mailles dans un rang de mailles (14a) proche, voisin du bord (7) puis des rangs de mailles étant tricotés à la suite du premier rang de mailles (14b) côté bord, dans lesquels rangs le nombre de mailles est accru progressivement à partir du premier nombre minimum (18) par augmentation (20) jusqu'à atteindre un nombre maximum (19) prédéterminé, à la suite de quoi des rangs de mailles sont tricotés, dont le nombre est réduit progressivement grâce à une diminution (21) jusqu'à atteindre un deuxième nombre minimum prédéterminé (22) dans un deuxième rang de mailles (22) côté bord, et le nombre de mailles dans un rang de mailles (22) étant ensuite à nouveau augmenté jusqu'à atteindre le nombre de mailles de sortie, puis au moins un rang de mailles circulaire (15) étant tricoté en fonctionnement circulaire, lequel rang de mailles entoure circulairement l'ouverture de la partie talon en forme de sac, et
    - fermeture de l'ouverture de la partie talon du genre sac par une couture (13) qui s'étend transversalement dans la semelle (3).
EP20090015515 2008-12-22 2009-12-15 Chausson en mailles et son procédé de fabrication Active EP2202339B1 (fr)

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DE200810064446 DE102008064446B4 (de) 2008-12-22 2008-12-22 Füßling aus Maschenware und Verfahren zu seiner Herstellung

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EP2202339A1 EP2202339A1 (fr) 2010-06-30
EP2202339B1 true EP2202339B1 (fr) 2015-04-22

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WO2016006012A1 (fr) * 2014-07-10 2016-01-14 Mamytex Di Capra Mario Sas Tête de machine de bonneterie
TWI688685B (zh) * 2017-06-05 2020-03-21 薩摩亞商紘織國際有限公司 橫編機編織的立體鞋胚及其織造方法

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DE102008064446A1 (de) 2010-06-24
DE102008064446B4 (de) 2011-07-07
EP2202339A1 (fr) 2010-06-30

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