EP0415171B1 - Verfahren und Vorrichtung zum Umwickeln des Knopfstiels eines an ein Kleidungsstück angenähten Knopfes - Google Patents

Verfahren und Vorrichtung zum Umwickeln des Knopfstiels eines an ein Kleidungsstück angenähten Knopfes Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0415171B1
EP0415171B1 EP90115535A EP90115535A EP0415171B1 EP 0415171 B1 EP0415171 B1 EP 0415171B1 EP 90115535 A EP90115535 A EP 90115535A EP 90115535 A EP90115535 A EP 90115535A EP 0415171 B1 EP0415171 B1 EP 0415171B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
winding
thread
button
bell
drive motor
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP90115535A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0415171A1 (de
Inventor
Andre Jacques Dr.-Ing. Schaerer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Allgemeine Synthetische Gesellschaft Ets
Original Assignee
Allgemeine Synthetische Gesellschaft Ets
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from DE3927018A external-priority patent/DE3927018C1/de
Priority claimed from DE4004877A external-priority patent/DE4004877A1/de
Application filed by Allgemeine Synthetische Gesellschaft Ets filed Critical Allgemeine Synthetische Gesellschaft Ets
Publication of EP0415171A1 publication Critical patent/EP0415171A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0415171B1 publication Critical patent/EP0415171B1/de
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H37/00—Machines, appliances or methods for setting fastener-elements on garments
    • A41H37/10—Setting buttons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H37/00—Machines, appliances or methods for setting fastener-elements on garments
    • A41H37/005—Hand implements
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B3/00—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing
    • D05B3/12—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing for fastening articles by sewing
    • D05B3/14—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing for fastening articles by sewing perforated or press buttons
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B97/00—Hand sewing processes or apparatus for special work or not otherwise provided for
    • D05B97/10—Hand sewing processes or apparatus for special work or not otherwise provided for for attaching buttons or fasteners

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for wrapping the button stem of a button sewn onto a garment with a sewing thread, in which a wrapping thread made of an elastomeric plastic is wound under tension on the bundle of threads formed from the sewing thread between the button and the garment, and the thread end is then fastened becomes.
  • the invention also includes an apparatus for performing the method.
  • buttons When attaching buttons to items of clothing to form a handle between the button and the item of clothing, several requirements must be observed, which the mechanical processes used to date have either not completely met or could only be met by accepting further difficulties.
  • the button stem should be relatively stiff but still flexible so that the buttons do not hang on the one hand and the button can be moved into a suitable buttonhole on the other.
  • the machine-sewn button should be secured against falling due to loosening of its wrapping and sewing threads.
  • the wear caused by the button stem on the buttonhole should be kept as low as possible.
  • the button is first machined with a sewing thread sewn and fixed in the warp stitch process to form a bundle of threads between the button and the item of clothing, whereupon the bundle of threads is in turn wrapped with a thread using the warp stitch process using a special machine.
  • the thread bundle is not wrapped by wrapping the thread around the thread bundle, but rather by placing the thread on the side of the thread bundle while simultaneously knotting on the underside of the thread bundle using the chain stitch method using a gripping hook.
  • This looping of the thread bundle according to the chain stitch method has various disadvantages.
  • the knot formation on the underside of the bundle of threads creates a one-sided thickening of the loop, which leads to friction and wear in the buttonhole.
  • Another disadvantage is the fact that the knots of the warp stitch wrap loosen when the clothes are worn and the bundle of threads no longer remains wrapped tightly so that the buttons can hang and eventually fall off.
  • the button stem of the machine-sewn button is wrapped with a thread under tension, the winding of which is swelled after the addition of a solvent and after it has evaporated off under contraction , so that the button stem is firmly enclosed with a homogeneous sleeve.
  • Yarns made from cellulose acetate are used as the wrapping thread, which are wetted and glued with acetone.
  • the invention has for its object to achieve in a method of the type mentioned in a simple manner a reliable fastening of the wrapping thread end, which excludes re-dissolving the button shaft winding.
  • the object is achieved according to the invention in that the wrapping thread is drawn off after winding the bundle of threads from the button stem in a direction approximately perpendicular to its axis with an increased tensile force beyond its yield point before it is severed at the button stem.
  • the method according to the invention can be carried out extremely simply because only at the end of the winding process the tension in the winding thread is increased by the stated increase in tensile force.
  • the end of the elastic wrapping thread is drawn in the vertical direction, ie approximately tangentially to the circumference of the button stem, after the wrapping completes the button stem in the vertical direction, making full use of the stretch to beyond its yield limit of the wrapping thread decreases the diameter of the wrapping thread inversely proportional to its increase in length.
  • a wrapping thread with an initial diameter of approximately 0.2 mm decreases with a stretch of 500% to only approximately 0.04 mm. If the tensile force is increased further so that the yield point is exceeded, there is no further decrease in diameter.
  • the increased tensile force acting on the winding thread is transferred even before the yield point is reached, or at least immediately afterwards, to the windings of the winding that were last wound, which also experience an increasing decrease in diameter as a result.
  • the windings with a greatly reduced diameter of the wrapping thread can therefore penetrate between previously wound windings of the winding, between which they are firmly embedded, if the tensile force continues to act on them. If the wrapping thread drawn off with increased tensile force is severed close to the button stem, then the wrapping thread shows the tendency to resume its original shape, ie its initial diameter, in accordance with the memory of its elastomeric material.
  • the thread end can neither shorten nor regain the initial diameter.
  • the thread end extending over several turns remains firmly clamped, to which the twist imparted to the winding thread during the winding process also contributes, which is also irreversible due to the fixed clamping.
  • the turns of the winding formed from the winding thread can not move sideways because they are supported on the one hand by the textile material of the garment and on the other hand by the underside of the button, so that the clamping force can not be reduced by lateral evasion.
  • the end of the wrapping thread which is under increased tensile force, can be cut at the button stem, but preferably the wrapping thread is severed by tearing to the breaking limit, increasing the tensile force.
  • wrapping thread with an elongation of about 100 and 600%, preferably 400 to 600%, has proven to be advantageous for carrying out the method according to the invention.
  • Elastane fibers have proven themselves for decades in the production of elastic garments and consist of at least 85% by weight of segmented polyurethane. This material has exceptional abrasion resistance, a high yield strength, a high elongation at break, infusibility, resistance to oxidation and resistance to dry cleaning.
  • the use of a stationary stick winding device is possible.
  • Both machines are usually arranged side by side so that they can be operated by one worker. However, only one of the two machines can be operated while the other machine is at a standstill. To increase the economy, it would therefore be desirable if the process of button sewing by a worker can be carried out continuously and without interruption and the process of wrapping the button stems separately from the sewing on of the buttons is carried out, if necessary can even be combined with another work process, preferably with quality control.
  • the handheld device designed in this way is no longer tied to the workplace of the button sewing machine, but can be used in any work area that follows the button sewing.
  • the handheld device is particularly compact and easy to handle if the magazine is designed as a handle.
  • the winding bell, the drive motor and the magazine are advantageously arranged coaxially.
  • the magazine can also be arranged at an angle, for example at right angles, to the common axis of the winding bell and the drive motor.
  • the manageability of the device proposed for carrying out the method can be further improved by the fact that the winding-bell drive motor with its Axis is arranged transversely to the axis of the winding bell and is non-positively connected to the winding bell via an angular gear.
  • the hand-held device which has been improved in this way, has a very compact construction and facilitates the guidance of the device through ergonomically even more favorable handling when the drive motor is used as a handle.
  • the housing of the drive motor is advantageously designed as a handle.
  • the angular gear is expediently formed by a pair of bevel gears, of which one bevel gear is attached to the hollow shaft fixedly connected to the winding bell, while the other bevel gear is attached to the motor shaft of the drive motor.
  • the hollow shaft is rotatably mounted in a gear housing and is led out of it at both ends, the winding bell being fastened at one end, while the other end is adjacent to the magazine receiving the winding thread supply.
  • the housing of the drive motor is expediently connected to the transmission housing, as a result of which the compactness of the device is further improved.
  • the design of the magazine is advantageously carried out in such a way that the magazine is formed from a coil arranged at right angles to the common axis of the winding bell and hollow shaft and a coil carrier, to which the coil is rotatably and interchangeably attached and which is fixedly connected to the gear housing.
  • the device which is designed as a hand-held device, is particularly suitable for use in the immediate successive wrapping of the button stems of a plurality of buttons, the button stems being wrapped in succession without cutting through the wrapping thread, whereupon the wrapping thread located between two button stems is pulled from both button stems and severed on both button stems.
  • the severing which is preferably achieved by tearing off, can take place immediately after a plurality of buttons have been sewn on, but also at any later point in time, without thereby endangering secure fastening of the thread ends.
  • the stationary device shown in FIG. 1 has a winding bell 3 which can be rotated about the dash-dot line in the device and which is provided with a concentrically mounted hollow shaft through which the winding thread 1, which is required for wrapping the button stem, is guided.
  • a thread tensioner 2 is used for fine adjustment of the thread tension. After exiting the hollow shaft, the winding thread is passed through an eyelet 4 on the edge of the winding bell 3 and inserted loosely into the slot of the shield 5.
  • the shield 5 is a thin-walled, arched and provided with the vertically arranged slot metal shield and serves as a carrier for the already sewn button 6 and the thread bundle 7, which is initially formed from the sewing thread.
  • the sewn button 6 with the Thread bundle 7 inserted into the slot of the shield 5 so that the button and thread bundle 7 protrude into the cavity of the winding bell 3.
  • the area of the garment 10 which carries the button 6 is located on the back of the label.
  • the curved shield 5 is fastened on a device 8, which is only indicated in FIGS. 1 and 2 and which can be moved forwards and backwards and inclined in the direction of the winding bell 3. This movement allows the button 6 with the bundle of threads 7 to be moved deeper or less deeply into the cavity of the winding bell 3.
  • the winding thread is then torn off directly on the button stem by further increasing the tensile force.
  • the whole process is very simple and fluent: lifting off the shield, pulling the thread away and tearing off the thread on the stem.
  • the button stem obtained is characterized by suppleness, flexibility and durability. A redissolution of the winding formed from the winding thread is excluded because of the clamping of the last turns of the winding thread forming the thread end between previously laid turns of the thread, as described above.
  • An electric motor 11 preferably a low-voltage direct current motor, drives the winding bell 3 with the aid of a hollow shaft 12.
  • the elastic winding thread 1 is drawn off from a spool 14 located in a magazine 13 and guided through the hollow shaft 12 to the winding bell 3, where it emerges during the winding process at the edge of the bell 3 and winds around the bundle of threads 7 of the button stem.
  • the winding process with this first hand device is carried out as follows: the yarn end, ie the free end of the Wrapping thread 1 is fixed by lightly pressing the garment 10 with a finger and the wrapping bell 3 is brought into slight contact with the surface of the garment 10, the sewn button 6 should be located in the center of the bell if possible.
  • the electric motor 11 is then put into operation for a certain period of time via a separate control (not shown), as a result of which the winding process is carried out.
  • the winding bell 3 is then lifted off the button 6 and preferably placed on the next button without tearing the thread 1. This process can be continued as desired, so that practically any number of items of clothing can be processed one after the other.
  • both ends of the thread ie the beginning and end, are attached to each button stem in accordance with the procedure.
  • the device according to the invention can also be used with correspondingly good results for wrapping around the button stems of individual buttons.
  • a hollow shaft 12 ' is rotatably and axially immovable in a gear housing 19.
  • the hollow shaft 12 ' is led out of the gear housing 19 with both ends, a winding bell 3 being attached to one end, while the other end is adjacent to a magazine 13' for receiving a supply of winding thread.
  • the magazine 13 ' consists of a bobbin 21 fixed to the gear housing 19 and a supply bobbin 14 for the winding thread 1, which is arranged at right angles to the axis of the hollow shaft 12' and is rotatably and interchangeably attached to the bobbin 21.
  • the winding thread 1 running from the bobbin 14 is guided through the hollow shaft 12 ', then through a slot 22 in the wall of the winding bell 3 and finally through an eyelet 4 provided on the circumference of the winding bell 3.
  • the hollow shaft 12 ' passes through a cavity 23 located in the interior of the gear housing 19, in which there is an angular gear 15 formed from two bevel gears 16 and 17.
  • the bevel gear 16 is concentrically attached to the hollow shaft 12 ', while the bevel gear 17 is attached to the motor shaft 18 of a drive motor 11', which is preferably designed as a DC motor.
  • the drive motor 11 ' is surrounded by a motor housing 20 which is connected to the gear housing 19. In this arrangement, the axis of the hollow shaft 12 'and the axis of the drive motor 11' form a right angle.
  • the motor housing 20 of the drive motor 11 ' which is shown only broken off in the drawing, is designed as a handle which, because of its location on the overall device, permits convenient and precise handling and guidance of the device.
  • the drive motor 11 ' can be designed as a cordless battery motor.
  • the winding process which can be carried out with the hand-held device according to FIG. 4 corresponds to that which was described with reference to FIG. 3.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
EP90115535A 1989-08-16 1990-08-14 Verfahren und Vorrichtung zum Umwickeln des Knopfstiels eines an ein Kleidungsstück angenähten Knopfes Expired - Lifetime EP0415171B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (6)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE3927018 1989-08-16
DE3927018A DE3927018C1 (en) 1989-08-16 1989-08-16 Winding button stalk onto garment - includes winding elastomeric thread around thread bundle on stalk, fastening thread end and drawing in direction vertical to stalk
DE4004877 1990-02-16
DE4004877A DE4004877A1 (de) 1989-08-16 1990-02-16 Vorrichtung zum umwickeln des knopfstiels eines an ein kleidungsstueck angenaehten knopfes
DE4021938A DE4021938A1 (de) 1989-08-16 1990-07-10 Vorrichtung zum umwickeln des knopfstiels eines an ein kleidungsstueck angenaehten knopfes
DE4021938 1990-07-10

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0415171A1 EP0415171A1 (de) 1991-03-06
EP0415171B1 true EP0415171B1 (de) 1994-01-12

Family

ID=27200018

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP90115535A Expired - Lifetime EP0415171B1 (de) 1989-08-16 1990-08-14 Verfahren und Vorrichtung zum Umwickeln des Knopfstiels eines an ein Kleidungsstück angenähten Knopfes

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US5082151A (ja)
EP (1) EP0415171B1 (ja)
JP (1) JPH03170190A (ja)
KR (1) KR930009398B1 (ja)
DE (1) DE4021938A1 (ja)
GB (1) GB2236046B (ja)

Families Citing this family (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE4021938A1 (de) * 1989-08-16 1992-01-16 Allg Synthetische Gmbh Vorrichtung zum umwickeln des knopfstiels eines an ein kleidungsstueck angenaehten knopfes
GB9411478D0 (en) * 1994-06-08 1994-07-27 Richard Rimington Limited An improved whipping bell for a button shank whipping machine
DE4445384C2 (de) * 1994-12-20 1998-10-29 Ascolit Schaerer Ag Verfahren zum Sichern einer mit einem Umwicklungsfaden erzeugten Knopfstielwicklung gegen Wiederaufgehen
KR100204270B1 (ko) * 1995-07-28 1999-06-15 이욱재 단추생크부 감침장치
WO1998009012A1 (en) * 1996-08-28 1998-03-05 Schaerer, Pierre-Andre Button shank wrapping machine
KR100227260B1 (ko) * 1997-02-21 1999-11-01 우종윤 의복 단추 생크부의 실감침 장치
ID24877A (id) * 1997-05-31 2000-08-31 Suh Myung Won Aparatus untuk mengikat benang yang melintasi kancing yang dijahit pada pakaian
JP2002177679A (ja) * 2000-12-13 2002-06-25 Juki Corp 根巻きボタン付けミシンおよびミシンの糸調子装置
KR100532713B1 (ko) * 2003-07-05 2005-12-01 주식회사 명진에스엠 의복용 단추의 재봉실 측면 감침장치
CN103397480A (zh) * 2013-08-08 2013-11-20 吴国溶 一种热熔纽扣绕线机
KR101448678B1 (ko) * 2013-08-12 2014-10-08 김형기 단추 재봉실의 뿌리감기 장치
CN106144755A (zh) * 2016-08-31 2016-11-23 东蒙集团有限公司 一种服装配线智能绕线机

Family Cites Families (14)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2013449A (en) * 1934-06-30 1935-09-03 John O Sibbald Button winding machine
US2391378A (en) * 1943-05-19 1945-12-25 Harriette M Avis Button winding machine
FR955574A (ja) * 1946-11-16 1950-01-17
GB926957A (en) * 1958-10-17 1963-05-22 George Edward Lett Buttons and attachment thereof to garments
US3213816A (en) * 1963-02-25 1965-10-26 Londontown Mfg Company Method and means for sewing and shanking buttons
DE1923571A1 (de) * 1968-12-10 1970-06-18 Maduson Dujsik & Co Ohg Verfahren zum Annaehen von Knoepfen und Vorrichtung zur Durchfuehrung des Verfahrens
GB1276782A (en) * 1970-03-26 1972-06-07 Shigero Tanemura Improvements in or relating to basting devices for sewing
IE47396B1 (en) * 1977-10-06 1984-03-07 Schaerer Andre J Method of attaching buttons to garments
GB2056509B (en) * 1979-05-18 1983-01-19 Nestenius Styrtech Apparatus for looping tying material about the eye of a botton
JPS594153A (ja) * 1982-06-30 1984-01-10 Matsushita Electric Ind Co Ltd 半導体装置の製造方法
JPS61193694A (ja) * 1985-02-22 1986-08-28 株式会社　リヨ−ワ ミシンの縫い糸供給装置
DE3709037C1 (de) * 1987-03-19 1988-09-01 Cora Helmken Vorrichtung zum Bilden eines Fadensteges fuer einen Knopf
US4823948A (en) * 1987-09-28 1989-04-25 Bonar George D Preassembled sew-ready button
DE4021938A1 (de) * 1989-08-16 1992-01-16 Allg Synthetische Gmbh Vorrichtung zum umwickeln des knopfstiels eines an ein kleidungsstueck angenaehten knopfes

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
GB2236046B (en) 1993-02-10
DE4021938A1 (de) 1992-01-16
KR930009398B1 (ko) 1993-10-04
GB9016554D0 (en) 1990-09-12
EP0415171A1 (de) 1991-03-06
JPH03170190A (ja) 1991-07-23
KR910004129A (ko) 1991-03-28
GB2236046A (en) 1991-03-27
US5082151A (en) 1992-01-21

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