CN1363736A - 免烫耐洗纯棉针织物的生产工艺 - Google Patents

免烫耐洗纯棉针织物的生产工艺 Download PDF

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CN1363736A
CN1363736A CN02101957A CN02101957A CN1363736A CN 1363736 A CN1363736 A CN 1363736A CN 02101957 A CN02101957 A CN 02101957A CN 02101957 A CN02101957 A CN 02101957A CN 1363736 A CN1363736 A CN 1363736A
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张玉高
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YIDA KNITTING CO Ltd GUANGDONG
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Priority to HK02106351.8A priority patent/HK1044574A1/zh
Priority to US10/281,781 priority patent/US7922776B2/en
Priority to JP2003560297A priority patent/JP4020866B2/ja
Priority to EP03702295A priority patent/EP1492918A4/en
Priority to MXPA04006876A priority patent/MXPA04006876A/es
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Priority to PCT/CN2003/000042 priority patent/WO2003060222A2/en
Priority to AU2003205507A priority patent/AU2003205507A1/en
Priority to CA2470052A priority patent/CA2470052C/en
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Abstract

一种免烫耐洗纯棉针织物的生产工艺,其特征在于按如下步骤进行:针织布煮练;中和;酶处理;中和;高温洗水;染色;皂洗;固色;过柔;脱水;烘干;拉幅;树脂整理;焙烘;制衣。本发明采用树脂整理与酶处理相结合的方法对纯棉针织物进行整理,配以适当的缝制工艺,使制成的纯棉针织物具有很好的形状记忆性能,在20次普通家庭洗水后,其外观仍能保持和未洗前一样,挺括平整,克服了普通针织物起毛起球的现象,按ASTM测试标准和AATCC测试标准测试均可达到4.0级,而且经过水洗后,衣物颜色变化很小,同时织物的缩水等其它方面也有一定提高。

Description

免烫耐洗纯棉针织物的生产工艺
本发明涉及一种生产工艺,特别是一种免烫耐洗纯棉针织物的生产工艺。
纯棉针织物虽然具有弹性好、吸湿性好、透气性好、穿着舒适等优点,但由于纯棉针织物结构疏松、尺寸稳定性差,在穿着过程中和洗涤后极易起皱,特别在多次洗涤后表面会出现毛茸和球形小粒并且会有一定程度的褪色,严重的影响了织物的服用性能。所以开发免烫耐洗的纯棉针织物成为提高纺织品质量重要的一个方面。
人们一直试图寻找一种方法来提高纺织品的整体质量。
目前,一般是通过树脂整理使织物具有良好的抗皱性,或者通过酶处理工艺来提高纯棉针织物的耐洗性,但都没有很好地把这两方面结合起来以提高织物的整体质量。通常免烫整理就是通过选择适当的树脂整理剂,以适当的方法施加至服装上,经过烘干、焙烘等一系列处理,使树脂整理剂在纤维大分子链之间形成牢固的化学交联,提高了纤维素纤维的抗形变能力和形变回复能力,所以经免烫整理后织物的弹性提高,不易起皱。而通常用作提高纯棉针织物耐洗性的酶属于水解酶,其作用机理是通过生物酶的水解催化作用使棉织物中的纤维素分子链断裂以及分解成低分子水解产物,例如纤维素二糖和葡萄糖,并且不断从织物表面脱落,从而达到除去大部分伸出布面的长毛羽和毛茸,保持织物外观平整干净的目的,同时使棉纤维的强力有一定期程度的下降而使织物在水洗和穿着过程中重新出现的毛羽和毛茸相对容易发生断裂而去除。经反复实验发现,经一次酶处理后织物耐洗性确有一定改善,但三、四次水洗后织物表面用ASTM(美国材料实验标准)标准评级往往只有2.0~3.0级而达不到4.0的级别。如果经过多次酶处理,布重的损失很大,不但使成本大幅增加,织物的强度下降很大,耐洗性的改善程度也并不大,且酶处理过程中工艺条件的控制要求十分严格,在操作上有一定困难。
现有一般纯棉针织物耐洗工艺(主要用于成衣上)为:
        (1)树脂整理工艺:
针织→煮练→染色→皂洗→固色→过柔→脱水→烘干→热定型→制衣→树脂整理→抛干→测试
        (2)酶处理工艺:
针织→煮练→染色→皂洗→固色→过柔→脱水→烘干→热定型→制衣→酶处理→抛干→测试
以上两种方法经大量实验证明均达不到良好的耐洗效果,而且在成衣上进行操作,故操作复杂,生产效率低,成本也相对较高。
本发明的目的在于提供一种简单易行,巧妙地改变传统处理工艺,以实现低成本、高效率地提高织物抗皱性和耐洗性的免烫耐洗纯棉针织物的生产工艺。
本发明的目的可以通过以下措施来达到:一种免烫耐洗纯棉针织物的生产工艺,其特征在于按如下步骤进行:(1)针织布煮练;(2)中和;(3)酶处理;(4)中和;(5)高温洗水;(6)染色;(7)皂洗;(8)固色;(9)过柔;(10)脱水;(11)烘干;(12)拉幅;(13)树脂整理;(14)焙烘;(15)制衣。
本发明的目的还可以通过以下措施来达到:上述步骤(3)中的酶处理工艺使用酶洗剂与醋酸的混合液。上述酶洗剂为纤维素生物酶、果胶酶。上述步骤(13)中的树脂整理工艺使用树脂整理剂、催化剂、强力保护剂、柔软剂、渗透剂的混合液。上述整理剂为二羟甲基乙烯脲(DMEU)、二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲(DMDHEU)、二羟甲基丙烯脲(DMPU)及二羟甲基三嗪酮(DMT)、改性N-甲基二羟乙基脲、多元羧酸类有机化合物及其改性物。上述催化剂为镁盐类、磷酸盐类,强力保护剂为聚乙烯类,柔软剂为脂肪酸类、有机硅类,渗透剂为聚氧乙烯醚类、JFC类。上述步骤(3)中的酶处理工艺为:将酶洗剂与醋酸的混合液按针织布∶混合液=1∶8~40的浴比处理,时间为10~80分钟,温度为35℃~60℃。上述酶洗剂的用量为0.1~2.5g/l、醋酸的用量为0.4~0.8g/l,对于领、袖、衣身不同部位,根据实际需要对酶洗剂和醋酸的用量在一定的范围内进行调整。上述树脂整理剂的用量为20~240g/l、催化剂的用量为5~30g/l、强力保护剂的用量为10~100g/l、渗透剂用量为0.5~2.5g/l,柔软剂的用量为80~120g/l,对于领、袖、衣身不同部位,根据实际需要对各种试剂的用量在一定范围内进行调整。上述步骤(15)中的制衣工艺包括:(1)朴应选用无纺热熔粘合衬,为避免衣服洗后起皱,朴的收缩应与布的收缩一致;(2)领、袖在缝制时应考虑其与布身收缩不一致的情况而适当缩放;(3)缝纫线迹不能太密,以适合线与布身收缩不一致的情况,线的收缩不能太大。
本发明相比现有技术具有如下优点:
采用树脂整理与酶处理相结合的方法对纯棉针织物进行整理,使制成的纯棉针织物具有很好的形状记忆性能,在20次普通家庭洗水后,其外观仍能保持和未洗前一样,挺括平整,克服了普通针织物起毛起球的现象,按ASTM测试标准和AATCC测试标准测试均可达到4.0级,而且经过水洗后,衣物颜色变化很小,同时织物的缩水等其它方面也有一定提高。且简单易行,节约成本,减少工艺控制难度,生产效率显著提高,可确保产品的质量。
本发明下面将结合实施例作进一步详述:
实施例一:
用30S/1纯棉单珠地布30KG生产耐洗纯棉针织物的工艺,可按如下步骤进行:针织布→煮练→中和→酶处理→中和→高温洗水→染色→皂洗→固色→过柔→脱水→烘干→拉幅→浸轧树脂整理剂→焙烘→制衣→测试。
工艺条件:酶处理和树酯整理剂整理工艺是重点,其中酶洗剂、树脂整理剂、催化剂、柔软剂、渗透剂的用量、反应条件和浴比应随其所生产布类的纱支做一定调整。
上述酶处理工艺使用酶洗剂与醋酸的混合液。其中酶洗剂为纤维素生物酶(也可为果胶酶)。酶处理工艺为:将酶洗剂与醋酸的混合液按针织布∶混合液=1∶10的浴比处理,时间为40分钟,温度为40℃。酶洗剂的用量为0.5g/l,醋酸的用量为0.4g/l。
上述树脂整理工艺使用树脂整理剂、催化剂、强力保护剂、柔软剂、渗透剂的混合液。其中树脂整理剂为改性二羟甲基二羟乙基乙烯脲,催化剂为镁盐,强力保护剂为聚乙烯,柔软剂为脂肪酸,渗透剂为聚氧乙烯醚。树脂整理剂的用量为20g/l,催化剂的用量为5g/l,强力保护剂的用量为20g/l,柔软剂的用量为60g/l,渗透剂的用量为1.5g/l。
其它步骤按常规处理。
实施例二:
用40S/2纯棉双珠布30KG生产耐洗纯棉针织物的工艺,可按与实施例一相同的步骤进行。
工艺条件做一定的调整。上述酶处理工艺使用酶洗剂与醋酸的混合液。其中酶洗剂为纤维素生物酶(也可为果胶酶)。酶处理工艺为:将酶洗剂与醋酸的混合液按针织布∶混合液=1∶30的浴比处理,时间为70分钟,温度为45℃。酶洗剂的用量为2.0g/l;醋酸的用量为0.8g/l。
上述树脂整理工艺使用树脂整理剂、催化剂、强力保护剂、柔软剂、渗透剂的混合液。其中树脂整理剂为改性N-甲基二羟乙基脲,用量为220g/l;催化剂为镁盐,用量为12g/l;强力保护剂为聚乙烯,用量为45g/l;柔软剂为有机硅,用量为20g/l;渗透剂为聚氯乙烯醚,用量为1.0g/l。
其它步骤按常规处理。
实施例三:
用40S/2纯棉双面布各30KG生产耐洗纯棉织物的工艺,可按与实施例一相同的步骤进行。
工艺条件做一定调整:上述酶处理工艺使用酶洗剂与醋酸的混合液。其中酶洗剂为纤维素生物酶(也可为果胶酶)。酶的处理工艺为:将酶洗剂与醋酸的混合液按针织布∶混合液=1∶40的浴比处理,时间为20分钟,温度为50℃。酶洗剂的用量为1.0g/l,醋酸的用量为0.6g/l。
上述树脂整理工艺使用树脂整理剂,催化剂、强力保护剂、柔软剂、渗透剂的混合液。其中树脂整理剂为多元羧酸,用量为100g/l;催化剂为磷酸盐,用量为20g/l强力保护剂为聚乙烯,用量为30g/l;柔软剂为脂肪酸和有机硅混合液,用量为40g/l;渗透剂为JFC,用量为0.5g/l。
其它步骤按常规处理。

Claims (10)

1、一种免烫耐洗纯棉针织物的生产工艺,其特征在于按如下步骤进行:(1)针织布煮练;(2)中和;(3)酶处理;(4)中和;(5)高温洗水;(6)染色;(7)皂洗;(8)固色;(9)过柔;(10)脱水;(11)烘干;(12)拉幅;(13)树脂整理;(14)焙烘;(15)制衣。
2、根据权利要求1所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:上述步骤(3)中的酶处理工艺使用酶洗剂与醋酸的混合液。
3、根据权利要求2所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:上述酶洗剂为纤维素生物酶、果胶酶。
4、根据权利要求1所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:上述步骤(13)中的树脂整理工艺使用树脂整理剂、催化剂、强力保护剂、柔软剂、渗透剂的混合液。
5、根据权利要求4所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:上述整理剂为二羟甲基乙烯脲(DMEU)、二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲(DMDHEU)、二羟甲基丙烯脲(DMPU)及二羟甲基三嗪酮(DMT)、改性N-甲基二羟乙基脲、多元羧酸类有机化合物及其改性物。
6、根据权利要求4所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:上述催化剂为镁盐类、磷酸盐类,强力保护剂为聚乙烯类,柔软剂为脂肪酸类、有机硅类,渗透剂为聚氧乙烯醚类、JFC类。
7、根据权利要求1或2或3所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:上述步骤(3)中的酶处理工艺为:将酶洗剂与醋酸的混合液按针织布∶混合液=1∶8~40的浴比处理,时间为10~80分钟,温度为35℃~60℃。
8、根据权利要求7所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:上述酶洗剂的用量为0.1~2.5g/l、醋酸的用量为0.4~0.8g/l,对于领、袖、衣身不同部位,根据实际需要对酶洗剂和醋酸的用量在一定的范围内进行调整。
9、根据权利要求1或4或5或6所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:上述树脂整理剂的用量为20~240g/l、催化剂的用量为5~30g/l、强力保护剂的用量为10~50g/l、柔软剂的用量为10~100g/l,渗透剂用量为0.5~2.5g/l,对于领、袖、衣身不同部位,根据实际需要对各种试剂的用量在一定范围内进行调整。
10、根据权利要求1所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:上述步骤(15)中的制衣工艺包括:(1)朴应选用无纺热熔粘合衬,为避免衣服洗后起皱,朴的收缩应与布的收缩一致;(2)领、袖在缝制时应与考虑其布身收缩不一致的情况而适当缩放;(3)缝纫线迹不能太密,以适合线与布身收缩不一致的情况,线的收缩不能太大。
CNB021019576A 2001-02-09 2002-01-18 免烫耐洗纯棉针织物的生产工艺 Expired - Lifetime CN1172053C (zh)

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CNB021019576A CN1172053C (zh) 2001-02-09 2002-01-18 免烫耐洗纯棉针织物的生产工艺
HK02106351.8A HK1044574A1 (zh) 2001-02-09 2002-08-28 免燙耐洗純棉針織物的生產工藝
US10/281,781 US7922776B2 (en) 2002-01-18 2002-10-28 Method of producing fabric
RU2004125162/04A RU2004125162A (ru) 2002-01-18 2003-01-17 Способ получения ткани
EP03702295A EP1492918A4 (en) 2002-01-18 2003-01-17 METHOD FOR PRODUCING A TEXTILE SURFACE PICTURE
MXPA04006876A MXPA04006876A (es) 2002-01-18 2003-01-17 Metodo para producir tela.
JP2003560297A JP4020866B2 (ja) 2002-01-18 2003-01-17 織物の製造方法
PCT/CN2003/000042 WO2003060222A2 (en) 2002-01-18 2003-01-17 Method of producing fabric
AU2003205507A AU2003205507A1 (en) 2002-01-18 2003-01-17 Method of producing fabric
CA2470052A CA2470052C (en) 2002-01-18 2003-01-17 Method of producing fabric with improved shrink and crease resistance utilizing an enzyme composition and a polymeric resin composition
MYPI20033075A MY161856A (en) 2002-01-18 2003-08-13 Method of producing fabric
US11/357,301 US20060137104A1 (en) 2002-01-18 2006-02-17 Method of producing fabric

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CN100390345C (zh) * 2004-12-20 2008-05-28 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 纯棉织物经纬向自然弹力的整理方法
CN1300409C (zh) * 2005-08-26 2007-02-14 宁波雅戈尔针织染整有限公司 一种耐洗针织面料的加工方法
CN100414036C (zh) * 2006-04-18 2008-08-27 广东溢达纺织有限公司 一种舒适快干的内外层具有亲水、疏水性能差异的织物及其生产方法
CN101736590B (zh) * 2010-01-14 2013-03-27 嵊州盛泰色织科技有限公司 一种使含棉织物具有耐久光泽的加工方法
CN102220694A (zh) * 2010-04-16 2011-10-19 香港纺织及成衣研发中心 用于织物多功能整理的组合物及使用其的织物多功能整理方法
CN103321043A (zh) * 2013-06-18 2013-09-25 河南乔治白服饰有限公司 一种提高免烫衬衫衣领衣袖部位耐磨性的加工方法
CN103321043B (zh) * 2013-06-18 2015-06-17 河南乔治白服饰有限公司 一种提高免烫衬衫衣领衣袖部位耐磨性的加工方法
CN103334302A (zh) * 2013-07-25 2013-10-02 赵玉英 一种衣物整理剂及制备方法
CN103334302B (zh) * 2013-07-25 2015-11-04 赵玉英 一种衣物整理剂及制备方法
CN103437212A (zh) * 2013-08-10 2013-12-11 郭淑华 一种休闲服装的水洗染色工艺
CN103628321A (zh) * 2013-12-09 2014-03-12 河南乔治白服饰有限公司 全亚麻免烫衬衫的加工方法
CN103757895A (zh) * 2013-12-17 2014-04-30 江苏金太阳纺织科技有限公司 一种棉衣整理液及其制备方法
CN103757895B (zh) * 2013-12-17 2015-09-23 顾祥茂 一种棉衣整理液及其制备方法
CN103757889A (zh) * 2013-12-31 2014-04-30 苏州市轩德纺织科技有限公司 一种抗收缩抗起球的整理剂及其制备方法
CN103774331A (zh) * 2014-01-20 2014-05-07 宁波百佳纺织服装有限公司 全棉永久弹力细针罗纹的生产工艺
CN103835054A (zh) * 2014-03-12 2014-06-04 东华大学 一种具有天然防螨功能的木棉纺织品及其加工技术
CN105350286A (zh) * 2015-11-12 2016-02-24 嵊州盛泰色织科技有限公司 一种天然免烫纯棉面料的加工方法
CN105297429A (zh) * 2015-11-13 2016-02-03 朱家勇 一种形态记忆持久免烫衣服及其制备方法
CN105297445A (zh) * 2015-12-07 2016-02-03 常熟市华谊织造有限公司 真丝面料的后整理工艺
CN105421097A (zh) * 2015-12-18 2016-03-23 上海雅运纺织助剂有限公司 一种醋酯纤维/聚酯纤维混纺织物的染整加工方法
CN108221378A (zh) * 2016-12-09 2018-06-29 广东溢达纺织有限公司 针织布染色定型处理方法及染色定型方法
CN108618221A (zh) * 2017-03-20 2018-10-09 广东溢达纺织有限公司 一种免烫耐洗防缩水针织服装及其制备方法
CN107366168A (zh) * 2017-08-31 2017-11-21 王露 一种内衣耐水洗处理方法
CN109594357A (zh) * 2018-12-04 2019-04-09 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 一种全棉素色面料染整加工方法
CN109594357B (zh) * 2018-12-04 2021-07-13 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 一种全棉素色面料染整加工方法

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HK1044574A1 (zh) 2002-10-25
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US7922776B2 (en) 2011-04-12
CA2470052C (en) 2012-04-10
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JP4020866B2 (ja) 2007-12-12
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EP1492918A2 (en) 2005-01-05
AU2003205507A8 (en) 2003-07-30
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CA2470052A1 (en) 2003-07-24
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RU2004125162A (ru) 2006-01-20

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