WO2018088565A1 - 油性メーキャップ化粧料 - Google Patents
油性メーキャップ化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2018088565A1 WO2018088565A1 PCT/JP2017/040851 JP2017040851W WO2018088565A1 WO 2018088565 A1 WO2018088565 A1 WO 2018088565A1 JP 2017040851 W JP2017040851 W JP 2017040851W WO 2018088565 A1 WO2018088565 A1 WO 2018088565A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4966—Triazines or their condensed derivatives
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/418—Amines containing nitro groups
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
- A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
- A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/26—Optical properties
- A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
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- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
- A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
- A61K2800/438—Thermochromatic; Photochromic; Phototropic
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- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/591—Mixtures of compounds not provided for by any of the codes A61K2800/592 - A61K2800/596
Definitions
- the present invention relates to an oily makeup cosmetic that has a colorless appearance but develops color when applied to the body surface such as skin and lips.
- Oily makeup cosmetics are makeup cosmetics having an oil phase as a continuous phase.
- Oil-based makeup cosmetics are often used as makeup cosmetics such as lipsticks, lip glosses, blushers, and eye shadows because of their superior makeup.
- dyes such as Red No. 218 and Red No. 223 are widely used.
- Patent Document 1 describes a solid cosmetic containing an oil agent, a dextrin fatty acid ester, dipropylene glycol, and a dye. Dyes are known to easily change color due to environmental factors such as moisture, light, and temperature, and techniques for stably incorporating dyes into cosmetics have been studied.
- Patent Document 2 listed below describes a composition in which a dye is dispersed or dissolved in an aqueous solution of a polyoxyethylene-added nonionic surfactant in the presence of a water-soluble antioxidant.
- Patent Document 3 listed below describes a makeup cosmetic containing a specific oil-soluble dye, particles of a specific material, and oil.
- the cosmetic described in Patent Document 1 has the same appearance color as that of the cosmetic when applied, and it is difficult to embody the quality required in the market in recent years.
- the cosmetic described in Patent Document 1 is inferior in light stability and high temperature stability. Since the composition described in Patent Document 2 contains a water-soluble antioxidant and a polyoxyethylene-added nonionic surfactant as essential components, a satisfactory makeup cannot be obtained. It may be difficult to make the composition described in Patent Document 2 an oily makeup cosmetic. In the cosmetic described in Patent Document 3, the color caused by the dye has already developed before being applied to the skin or the lips.
- an object of the present invention is to provide an oily makeup cosmetic that has a colorless appearance but develops color when applied to the body surface such as skin and lips.
- the present inventors have provided an oily makeup cosmetic that, when applied to a body surface such as the skin or lips, has a colorless appearance by combining a specific dye exhibiting a red color and a specific oil. As a result, the present invention has been completed. In addition, the present inventors have also found that high-temperature stability and / or light stability are improved when the oily makeup cosmetic further contains a specific component.
- the present invention provides a colorless oily makeup cosmetic containing an oil agent of .2 or less.
- the component (b) comprises triethylhexanoin, tritridecyl trimellitate, dialkyl carbonate (C14, C15), polyglyceryl-10 decaethylhexanoate, diisostearyl malate, mineral oil, It may be one or more selected from hydrogenated polyisobutene, methylphenyl polysiloxane, dimethyl polysiloxane, and polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate having an emery type isostearic acid group.
- the oily makeup cosmetic may be colored when applied to the skin and / or lips.
- the oily makeup cosmetic may further contain one or more selected from (c) a carboxyvinyl polymer and an alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer.
- the oily makeup cosmetic may further contain (d) an oily gelling agent.
- the oily makeup cosmetic may be liquid at 25 ° C.
- the oily makeup cosmetic may have a kinematic viscosity at 25 ° C. of 10,000 to 20000 cs.
- the content ratio of the component (b) may be 65 to 99.9% by mass with respect to the mass of the cosmetic. According to one embodiment of the present invention, the content ratio of the component (a) may be 0.01 to 1.0% by mass with respect to the mass of the cosmetic. According to one embodiment of the present invention, the content ratio of the component (c) may be 0.01 to 1.0% by mass with respect to the mass of the cosmetic.
- the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention is colorless in appearance, but develops color when applied to the body surface such as skin and lips.
- the red (No. 218) and red (No. 223) components (a) contained in the cosmetic of the present invention are a kind of fluorane-based oil-soluble dyes and can be classified as tar pigments.
- Red No. 218 and Red No. 223 are colorants that are widely used in makeup cosmetics such as lipsticks because they develop a red color.
- these dyes are used in cosmetics, fading due to light may be a problem. Therefore, in order to use it for cosmetics, it is necessary to devise so that cosmetics do not hit light using a light shielding container or the like.
- Examples of commercially available products include TPP Red No. 218 and TPP Red No. 223 (both manufactured by Hatake Kasei Co., Ltd.).
- Red No. 218 Tetrachlorotetrabromofluorescein.
- the CAS registration number of Red No. 218 is 13473-26-2, the CI number is 45410: 1, the CI name is Solvent RED48, and the FDA name is D & C Red No.27.
- the chemical name of Red No. 218 is 2 ′, 4 ′, 5 ′, 7′-tetrabromo-4,5,6,7-tetrachloro-3 ′, 6′-dihydroxyspiro [isobenzofuran-1 (3H), 9 ′-[9H] xanthen] -3-one, which has the following chemical structure:
- Red No. 223 Tetrabromofluorescein.
- the CAS No. of Red No. 223 is 15086-94-9, the CI number is 45380: 2, the CI name is Solvent RED43, and the FDA name is D & C Red No.21.
- the chemical name of Red No. 223 is 2 ′, 4 ′, 5 ′, 7′-tetrabromo-3 ′, 6′-dihydroxyspiro [isobenzofuran-1 (3H), 9 ′-[9H] xanthene] -3- Is on and has the following chemical structure:
- the content of component (a) in the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.01 to 1.0% by mass relative to the total mass of the cosmetic of the present invention (in this specification, “%” Unless otherwise indicated, it means “% by mass”), more preferably 0.02 to 0.1%, and still more preferably 0.03 to 0.1%.
- the cosmetic of the present invention can be more excellent in dyeing power and transparency.
- the said component (b) may be an oil agent normally used for cosmetics. Examples of the shape of the oil agent of component (b) include, but are not limited to, solid, semi-solid, and liquid.
- the oil agent of component (b) is preferably liquid at 25 ° C. because the effects of the present invention are remarkably exhibited.
- the absorbance is obtained by measuring absorbance at 500 to 600 nm in a 25 ° C. environment using a polystyrene transparent cell having an optical path length of 1 cm.
- the absorbance may be measured by a commercially available absorbance measuring instrument, for example, an absorptiometer UV-2500PC manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation.
- Ester oils such as triethylhexanoin, tritridecyl trimellitate, dialkyl carbonate (C14, C15), polyglyceryl-10 decaethylhexanoate, diisostearyl malate, and polyglyceryl triisostearate having an emery type isostearic acid group
- Hydrocarbon oils such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene
- silicone oils such as methylphenyl polysiloxane and dimethylpolysiloxane may be mentioned, but are not limited thereto.
- the component (b) one or more of these compounds may be used.
- ester oils in particular triethylhexanoin, tritridecyl trimellitate, dialkyl carbonate (C14, C15), decaethyl hexanoic acid polyglyceryl-10, or diisostearyl malate;
- hydrocarbon oils especially mineral oil or hydrogenated polyisobutene having a kinematic viscosity at 40 ° C of 10000 cs or less or an average molecular weight of 1000 or less; or among silicone oils, particularly methylphenylpolysiloxane or kinematic viscosity at 25 ° C More preferably, dimethylpolysiloxane having a molecular weight of 10,000 cs or less or an average molecular weight of 60000 or less; or a combination of two or more of these compounds is used as component (b).
- the emery type isostearic acid is methyl-branched isostearic acid, and can be obtained as a by-product in the production of dimer of oleic acid, for example [J. Amer. Oil Chem. Soc. 51, 522 (1974)].
- Examples of commercially available products of emery type isostearic acid include products that are commercially available from Emery, Inc., USA.
- Further starting materials for dimer acid, which is the starting material for emery-type isostearic acid can include not only oleic acid but also linoleic acid and linolenic acid, for example.
- isostearic acid includes three isomers.
- the three types of isostearic acid are 2-heptylundecanoic acid, 2-isoheptylisoundecanoic acid, and isostearic acid with an undefined structure.
- Emery-type isostearic acid is an isostearic acid with an undefined structure and is not 2-heptylundecanoic acid or 2-isoheptylisoundecanoic acid.
- Emery type isostearic acid is considered to have a methyl group as a side chain, but the position of the methyl group has not been elucidated. Especially for this reason, the structure of emery-type isostearic acid has not been revealed.
- Examples of commercially available components (b) include Cosmol 43V (manufactured by Nisshin Oilio, polyglyceryl triisostearate having an emery type isostearic acid group), MYRITAL GTEH (manufactured by BASF, triethylhexanoin), DOCADIT TM-13N (Nisshin Oilio, Tritridecyl trimellitate), LIALCARB SR-1000 / R (Mitsui Chemicals Fine, dialkyl carbonate (C14, C15)), KEH-1010 (Sakamoto Pharmaceutical) Manufactured by the company, deglycethylhexanoic acid polyglyceryl-10), esterol DISM (manufactured by National Mimatsu Co., is diisostearyl malate), KLEAROL WHITE MINEAL OIL (manufactured by SONNEBORN, mineral oil) ), Refined polybutene HV-100F (S
- the content of component (b) in the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 65 to 99.9% by mass, more preferably 85 to 98.6% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic of the present invention. Even more preferably, it is 92.7-98.6% by mass.
- the content ratio of the component (b) is within this range, the color development due to the component (a) can be more easily suppressed.
- the cosmetic of the present invention may contain a liquid component other than the component (b), but the content ratio of the liquid component other than the component (b) contained in the cosmetic of the present invention is the total content of the cosmetic of the present invention. Preferably it is 0.5% or less with respect to mass, More preferably, it is 0.3% or less, More preferably, it is 0.1% or less. Thus, preferably, most of the liquid component in the cosmetic of the present invention is the component (b).
- the content ratio of the liquid component other than the component (b) is within the above range, the appearance of the cosmetic of the present invention can be easily made colorless, and as a result, aesthetics when filled in a transparent container. Excellent cosmetics can be obtained.
- the liquid component other than the component (b) is a component that is liquid in a 25 ° C. environment.
- Liquid components other than the said component (b) may be a raw material normally used for cosmetics.
- liquid components other than the component (b) include ester oils such as polyhydric alcohols such as butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, such as polyglyceryl-10 decastearate and polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate having an aldol-type isostearic acid group.
- ester oils such as polyhydric alcohols such as butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, such as polyglyceryl-10 decastearate and polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate having an aldol-type isostearic acid group.
- polymers such as (vinyl pyrrolidone / hexadecene) copolymer, and one or more of them can be used.
- the aldol-type isostearic acid is, for example, an isostearic acid compound represented by the following chemical formula (3).
- Aldol-type isostearic acid corresponds to 2-isoheptylisoundecanoic acid described above.
- the isostearic acid represented by the following chemical formula (3) can be synthesized by, for example, an aldol condensation reaction using an ⁇ -olefin having a side chain as a starting material, but other synthetic methods can be used as long as they have the structure represented by (3) May be obtained.
- liquid components other than component (b) examples include NIKKOL DECAGLYN10-ISV (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals), ANTARON V216 (manufactured by ASP Japan), and Cosmol 43N (manufactured by Nisshin Eulio). Of these, one or more of these may be used.
- the cosmetic of the present invention may further comprise a carboxyvinyl polymer and / or an alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer of component (c).
- the carboxyvinyl polymer may be, for example, a polymer mainly composed of acrylic acid and cross-linked with a small amount of allyl sucrose.
- a component (c) is not limited to the said polymer,
- the other carboxyvinyl polymer normally used for cosmetics may be sufficient.
- the alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer can be, for example, an alkylated carboxyvinyl polymer.
- compounds usually used in cosmetics can be used.
- the alkyl group possessed by the alkylation treatment preferably has 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
- an (acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate (C10-30)) copolymer is particularly preferable. These copolymers preferably have an average molecular weight of about 50,000 to 3,000,000, more preferably 750,000 or more.
- Examples of commercially available products of carboxyvinyl polymer include Carbopol 940, Carbopol 941, and Carbopol 980 (all manufactured by LUBRIZOLADVANCEDMATERIALS).
- Examples of commercially available alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymers include PEMULEN TR-1 and PEMULEN TR-2, and Carbopol 1342 and Carbopol 1382 (both manufactured by LUBRIZOLANDADVANCEDMATERIALS).
- As the component (c) used in the present invention one or more of these can be used.
- an alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer is more preferably used as the component (c) used in the present invention because the effect of suppressing discoloration of the component (a) at a high temperature is more excellent.
- the content of component (c) used in the present invention is preferably 0.01 to 1.0%, more preferably 0.02 to 0.5%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic of the present invention. And even more preferably 0.03 to 0.1%.
- the cosmetics of this invention can have the more excellent high temperature stability and / or transparency, for example.
- the cosmetics of this invention can have more excellent high temperature stability and / or transparency.
- the cosmetic of the present invention may further contain component (d) an oily gelling agent.
- an oily gelling agent compounds usually used in cosmetics can be used. That is, the present invention provides an oily makeup cosmetic containing components (a), (b), and (d). The present invention also provides an oily makeup cosmetic comprising components (a), (b), (c), and (d).
- component (d) examples include octanoic acid dextrin, lauric acid dextrin, palmitic acid dextrin, myristic acid dextrin, stearic acid dextrin, behenic acid dextrin, coconut oil fatty acid dextrin, (palmitic acid / octanoic acid) dextrin, and sucrose fatty acid ester.
- Starch fatty acid ester 12-hydroxystearic acid, calcium stearate, silica and dimethylsilylated silica, polyethylene wax, (ethylene / propylene) copolymer, paraffin wax, montan wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, ceresin wax, and ozokerite wax Can be mentioned.
- component (d) is included as component (d) in the cosmetic of the present invention.
- component (d) is a dextrin octanoate, dextrin laurate, dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, dextrin stearate, dextrin behenate, palm oil fatty acid dextrin, (palmitic acid / octanoic acid).
- dextrin sucrose fatty acid ester, starch fatty acid ester, 12-hydroxystearic acid, calcium stearate, silica, and dimethylsilylated silica.
- the cosmetic of the present invention When one or two or more selected from these compounds are contained in the cosmetic of the present invention, a cosmetic with excellent transparency can be obtained, and as a result, the cosmetic is aesthetic when filled in a transparent container. Is excellent.
- the silica and dimethylsilylated silica are preferably in the form of fumes, and the average particle size of primary particles of the silica and dimethylsilylated silica is, for example, 1 to 50 nm, particularly 3 to 40 nm, Even more particularly, it may be 5-30 nm.
- the content of component (d) is preferably 0.1 to 10%, more preferably 1 to 7%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic of the present invention.
- the content ratio of the component (d) is within this range, a viscosity is imparted to the cosmetic of the present invention, and as a result, the cosmetic of the present invention can be excellent in feeling of use and longevity. .
- the kinematic viscosity at 25 ° C. of the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 10,000 to 20,000 cs, particularly preferably 12500 to 17500 cs.
- the component (a) can develop color faster on the body surface such as the skin and the lips.
- the kinematic viscosity is a value measured at 25 ° C. by a measuring method according to ASTM D445.
- the cosmetic of the present invention may further contain a component (e) a hydrocarbon solid oil in addition to the components (a) and (b). That is, the present invention also provides an oily makeup cosmetic containing components (a), (b), and (e). The present invention also provides an oily makeup cosmetic comprising components (a), (b), (c) and (e).
- a component (e) a hydrocarbon solid oil in addition to the components (a) and (b).
- the present invention also provides an oily makeup cosmetic containing components (a), (b), and (e).
- the present invention also provides an oily makeup cosmetic comprising components (a), (b), (c) and (e).
- the hydrocarbon solid oil compounds usually used in cosmetics can be used.
- component (e) examples include (ethylene / propylene) copolymers, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, montan wax, and Fischer-Tropsch wax.
- the content of component (e) is preferably 1 to 15%, more preferably 2 to 13%, and even more preferably 3 to 10%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic of the present invention.
- the cosmetic of the present invention can be solid.
- the oily makeup cosmetics of the present invention are components that are usually used in cosmetics, such as powders, surfactants, Water-soluble polymers, paraoxybenzoic acid derivatives, preservatives, solid UV absorbers, moisturizers, antibacterial agents, fragrances, salts, antioxidants, pH adjusters, chelating agents, refreshing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, skin care ingredients (Whitening agents, cell activators, rough skin improving agents, blood circulation promoters, skin astringents, antiseborrheic agents, etc.), vitamins, amino acids, nucleic acids, hormones, inclusion compounds, and the like can be appropriately contained.
- the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention can contain, for example, a powder.
- the powder may preferably be a powder that does not contain a cationic group.
- the powder not containing a cationic group include silicic anhydride (silica), silicone resin powder, PMMA, talc, and mica.
- the silicic anhydride can have a larger particle size than, for example, silica used as component (d).
- the shape of the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention can be, for example, solid, semi-solid, or liquid.
- the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention is in a liquid or semi-solid form, and thereby the effects of the present invention are remarkably exhibited.
- the dosage form of the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention is preferably oily with the oil phase as a continuous phase, whereby the cosmetic of the present invention has the effect of having a long lasting makeup.
- the content ratio of water in the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.5% or less, more preferably based on the total mass of the cosmetic of the present invention. Is 0.1% or less, particularly preferably 0%.
- the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention is colorless.
- the term “colorless” may mean that color development due to the component (a) is absent or suppressed.
- colorless means that there is no red coloration due to component (a) or the degree of color development is low.
- the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention is colorless before being applied to a body surface such as skin or lips, for example, but after applying the cosmetic to the body surface, the color resulting from the component (a) is developed. sell.
- whether or not the oily makeup cosmetic is colorless can be determined using, for example, the saturation C * as an index. That is, the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention has a chroma C * of preferably 5 or less, more preferably 4.25 or less, and even more preferably 3.5 or less. When the saturation * is within this numerical range, the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention can be judged to be colorless.
- the saturation C * is a value measured before the cosmetic is applied to the body surface such as skin and lips, that is, before the color due to the component (a) is developed (or the color of the color). Is the measured value).
- the oil-based makeup cosmetic of the present invention can develop a color resulting from the component (a) after the cosmetic is applied to the body surface such as the skin or the lips. That is, according to the present invention, there is provided an oily makeup cosmetic that has a colorless appearance but develops color when applied to a body surface such as skin or lips.
- the saturation C * is calculated by the following calculation formula.
- C * (a 2 + b 2 ) 1/2
- the a value and the b value are measured with a spectrocolorimeter (SPECTRO COLORMETER SE-2000) after the sample is fully filled in a glass cell (diameter 3.5 cm, depth 1.2 cm). It is obtained by doing.
- the a value and b value are a * value and b * value in the L * a * b * color system (hereinafter also referred to as “Lab color system”) (hereinafter referred to as “L * value”, “a”).
- L * value a * value
- * Value "and” b * value are also referred to as” L value "," a value ", and” b value ", respectively).
- the a value in the Lab color system of the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 4 or less, more preferably 3 or less, and even more preferably 2 or less. Further, the a value in the Lab color system of the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention is preferably ⁇ 5 or more, more preferably ⁇ 4 or more, and even more preferably ⁇ 3 or more.
- the numerical value range of the a value of the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention may be a range defined by those selected from the upper limit value and the lower limit value, for example, ⁇ 5 to 4, preferably ⁇ 4 to 3. More preferably from -3 to 2.
- the a value is a value measured before the cosmetic is applied to the body surface such as skin or lips, that is, before the color caused by the component (a), particularly red, is developed. This is the value when the fee is measured.
- the a value can be measured by the same method as the a value measuring method used for calculating the saturation C * .
- the b value in the Lab color system of the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention may be set in consideration of the a value so as to achieve the saturation C * , for example. This is because there is a relationship represented by the above formula between the saturation C * and the a and b values.
- the b value in the Lab color system of the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention is, for example, 5 or less, preferably 4 or less, more preferably 3 or less.
- the b value in the Lab color system of the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention is, for example, ⁇ 6 or more, preferably ⁇ 5 or more, more preferably ⁇ 4 or more, and even more preferably ⁇ 3 or more.
- the numerical value range of the b value of the oily makeup cosmetic composition of the present invention may be a range defined by those selected from the upper limit value and the lower limit value, for example, ⁇ 6 to 5, preferably ⁇ 5 to 4. More preferably from -4 to 3.
- the b value is a value measured before the cosmetic is applied to the body surface such as skin and lips, that is, when the cosmetic is measured before the red color caused by the component (a) is developed. Is the value of The b value can be measured by the same method as the b value measurement method used for calculating the saturation C * described above.
- the L value in the Lab color system of the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention may be appropriately set by those skilled in the art.
- the L value can be, for example, 0 to 100, in particular 1 to 99, more particularly 5 to 95, and even more particularly 10 to 90.
- the L value is measured by the same measuring method as the measuring method of the a value and the b value.
- the oil-based makeup cosmetic of the present invention can develop a color resulting from the component (a) after the cosmetic is applied to the body surface such as the skin or the lips.
- the degree of color development can be evaluated by, for example, applying the non-colored cosmetic of the present invention on white tissue paper.
- the saturation C * of the white tissue paper can be, for example, 0.1-5, in particular 1-3.
- the chroma C * of the portion where the cosmetic composition is applied is, for example, 20 to 60, particularly 25 to 55, and even more particularly 30 to 30. 50.
- the a value of the white tissue paper can be, for example, -2 to 2, particularly -1 to 1.
- the a value of the portion where the cosmetic is applied is, for example, 15 to 55, particularly 20 to 50, and even more particularly 25 to 45. Can be.
- the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention can be colorless and transparent. Whether the cosmetic is transparent may be evaluated by the methods described in the examples below.
- the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention may have a saturation C * of 5 or less and be transparent.
- “colorless” means, for example, that the cosmetic is filled in a transparent cell made of polystyrene having an optical path length of 1 cm, and has an absorbance of 500 to 600 nm in an environment of 25 ° C. The difference between the maximum value and the minimum value of the absorbance in a wavelength region of 500 to 600 nm as measured with a spectrophotometer UV-2500PC manufactured by the company may be indicated as 0.5 or less.
- the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention may be colorless and have an L value of, for example, 45 or more, preferably 50 or more, more preferably 55 or more, and even more preferably 60 or more.
- the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention may have a saturation C * of 5 or less and be white.
- the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention can be produced, for example, as follows. That is, the component (a) and the component (c) are first mixed to disperse the component (a) in the component (c). Next, the component (b) and an optional oil component are mixed and / or dispersed in the mixture of the component (a) and the component (c) while heating as necessary. The resulting mixture is optionally mixed with powder and / or aqueous components uniformly, and the mixture is heated to dissolve the components. After dissolution, the mixture is poured into a container or mold, and the container or mold is filled with the mixture. It cools after filling and the oil-based makeup cosmetics of this invention are obtained.
- the component (d) or the component (e) can be added and mixed, for example, when the component (b) and any oil component are mixed.
- the method for producing the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention is not limited to the above method.
- the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention may be produced by other methods known to those skilled in the art.
- the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention is preferably used as a makeup cosmetic such as lipstick, lip gloss, lip treatment, lip balm, lip base for base, lipstick overcoat, blusher, and eye shadow.
- the oily makeup cosmetics of the present invention are used as cosmetics for lips such as lipsticks, lip glosses, lip treatments, lip balms, lip bases for foundations, lipstick overcoats, etc. It is preferred that That is, the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention is preferably a lip cosmetic, that is, a cosmetic intended to be applied to the lips.
- the material of the container in which the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention is accommodated is preferably a material that does not cause color development due to the component (a).
- examples of such materials include, but are not limited to, PET (polyethylene terephthalate) and PP (polypropylene). That is, the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention can be accommodated in a container formed from PET or PP.
- compositions of Experimental Examples 1 to 12 did not develop color, that is, were colorless, whereas the compositions of Comparative Experimental Examples 1 to 3 were mixed with Red No. 218 with an oil. The color developed.
- the compositions of Experimental Examples 1 to 5, 7 to 8, and 10 to 11 were dyed within 5 seconds after application.
- the compositions of Experimental Examples 6 and 9 were dyed in more than 5 seconds to 30 seconds after coating.
- no change was observed between the appearance before coating and the color after coating. Since the compositions of Comparative Experimental Examples 1 to 3 were colored immediately after mixing Red No. 218 and the oil, the time until dyeing was not evaluated.
- compositions of Experimental Examples 2-1 to 2-12 did not develop color (was colorless), whereas the compositions of Comparative Experimental Examples 2-1 to 2-3 For, the color was developed by mixing Red No. 223 with oil. Further, the compositions of Experimental Examples 2-1 to 2-8 and 2-10 to 2-11 were dyed within 30 seconds more than 5 seconds after coating. In addition, the compositions of Experimental Examples 2-9 and 2-12 developed color after 30 seconds after application. Therefore, the oil agent contained in the compositions of Experimental Examples 2-1 to 2-8 and 2-10 to 2-11 can impart more excellent dyeing power to the oily makeup cosmetics.
- compositions of Experimental Examples 2-2 to 2-7 and 2-10 to 2-11 were dyed within 5 seconds after application for more than 5 seconds even after light irradiation for 1 week.
- compositions of Experimental Examples 2-1, 2-8 to 2-9, and 2-12 were colored after 30 seconds after coating. Therefore, the oil agent contained in the compositions of Experimental Examples 2-2 to 2-7 and 2-10 to 2-11 can impart more excellent light stability to the oily makeup cosmetic. There was no change between the appearance before application and the color after application of the compositions of Comparative Experimental Examples 2-1 to 2-3. Since the compositions of Comparative Experimental Examples 2-1 to 2-3 had developed color immediately after mixing Red No. 223 and the oil agent, the time until dyeing and the light stability were not evaluated.
- compositions of Experimental Examples 1 to 12 and the compositions of Experimental Examples 2-1 to 2-12 are compared, the compositions of Experimental Examples 1 to 12 tend to have better dyeing power. Therefore, when Red No. 218 is used, a superior dyeing power is imparted to the oily makeup cosmetic compared to the case of using Red No. 223.
- An oily lip cosmetic having the composition shown in Table 3 was prepared according to the following production method. For each of the resulting oily lip cosmetics, the presence or absence of color development (colorless), the time to dyeing when applied, the light and high-temperature stability in a certain environment, and the appearance of the cosmetics The transparency of was evaluated according to the following evaluation method. The evaluation results are shown in Table 3.
- Kinematic viscosity at 25 ° C The kinematic viscosity of each cosmetic was measured at 25 ° C. by ASTM D445 measurement method. Based on the measurement results, each cosmetic was classified according to the following criteria. (Standard): (Classification) Kinematic viscosity is greater than 20000 cs: 3 Kinematic viscosity is 10,000 cs or more and less than 20000 cs: 2 Kinematic viscosity is less than 10,000 cs: 1
- Example 15 was inferior in transparency compared with the other Examples.
- Examples 1 to 14 and Example 16 were excellent in light stability.
- Example 15 in which Red No. 223 was contained instead of Red No. 218 was inferior in light stability as compared with other Examples.
- all of the oily lip cosmetics of Examples 1 to 14 were colorless, but developed color when applied, and were excellent in light stability and high-temperature stability, and also in transparency.
- the photostability was inferior compared with other Examples. Therefore, it can be seen that when Red No. 218 is used, an effect is obtained that a cosmetic having excellent light stability is obtained as compared with the case of using Red No. 223.
- Example 16 which does not contain a component (c), compared with the other Example, it was inferior to high temperature stability, and the cosmetics became red with time. Therefore, it turns out that the effect of being excellent in high temperature stability is show
- Oily Lip Cosmetics Including Red 223> Examples 2-1 to 2-16 and comparative examples 2-1 to 2-5 Oily lip cosmetics having the compositions shown in Table 4 were prepared according to the following production method. For each of the resulting oily lip cosmetics, the presence or absence of color development (colorless), the time to dyeing when applied, the light and high-temperature stability in a certain environment, and the appearance of the cosmetics Of the above ⁇ 2. Evaluation was performed according to the evaluation method described in “Oral Lip Cosmetics Containing Red No. 218>. The evaluation results are shown in Table 4.
- Example 2-16 which does not contain component (c)
- the high temperature stability was inferior, and the cosmetic turned red over time. Therefore, it turns out that the effect of being excellent in high temperature stability is show
- Comparative Examples 2-1 to 2-5 containing more than 0.5% of the liquid component other than the component (b) the appearance was colored, and the color did not change before and after coating.
- the chroma C * of the cosmetics of Examples 1 and 10 and Examples 2-1 and 2-11 were all 5 or less. That is, all of these cosmetics were colorless.
- the a values of the cosmetics of Examples 1 and 10 and Examples 2-1 and 2-11 were all 4 or less. That is, red coloring was suppressed in any of these cosmetics.
- the saturation before application was 1.50
- the saturation after application was 38.39.
- the a value before coating was ⁇ 0.8
- the a value after coating was 35.12. That is, when the cosmetic was applied to tissue paper, the saturation and a value of the applied part increased, that is, the color caused by red No. 218 in the cosmetic developed.
- compositions 1 to 6 having compositions as shown in Table 7 were produced. Moreover, L value, a value, and b value in the Lab color system of these compositions were measured. Further, the saturation C * was calculated based on the a value and b value of the measurement result. The measurement was performed with a spectral color difference meter (SPECTRO COLORMETER SE-2000) for each cosmetic filled in a glass cell (diameter 3.5 cm, depth 1.2 cm). The evaluation results are also shown in Table 7 below. In Table 7, the presence or absence of color development is described in ⁇ 1. Evaluation by coloring composition according to composition containing dye and oil agent> In addition, photographs of compositions 1 to 6 are shown in FIG.
- SPECTRO COLORMETER SE-2000 spectral color difference meter
- compositions 1-3 contain dextrin palmitate as described in Table 7.
- Dextrin palmitate is a gelling agent.
- Compositions 1 to 3 were semi-solid (gel).
- Compositions 4-6 comprise (ethylene / propylene) copolymers as described in Table 7. (Ethylene / propylene) copolymer is a hydrocarbon solid oil. Compositions 4-6 were solid.
- Compositions 1 and 2 were colorless. That is, in Compositions 1 and 2, red coloration caused by Red No. 218 was suppressed.
- the composition 3 was red. That is, in composition 3, red coloration caused by red No. 218 was not suppressed. From these results, when a large amount of (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene) copolymer that is an oil agent is included, red coloration caused by Red No. 218 occurs, while diisostearyl malate occupies most of the oil agent, It can be seen that red coloration caused by Red No. 218 is suppressed.
- compositions 4 and 5 were colorless. That is, in compositions 4 and 5, red coloration caused by red No. 218 was suppressed. Compositions 4 and 5 were solid (wax-like). Therefore, even when the cosmetic dosage form is solid, the color development of red No. 218 is suppressed when diisostearyl malate occupies most of the oil as in the case of gel. It was confirmed. On the other hand, the composition 6 was red. That is, in composition 6, red coloration due to red No. 218 was not suppressed. Composition 6 was solid (wax-like).
- the red 218 red coloration is not suppressed by containing a large amount of (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene) copolymer that is an oil agent. It was confirmed. As described above, the suppression of red color development when a red dye and a specific oil are combined is ⁇ 1. It was confirmed that this was achieved not only in the gel-like dosage form employed in the evaluation of color development by a composition containing a dye and an oil agent, but also in a solid composition.
- the resulting blusher was colorless in appearance but developed color when applied. *
- the resulting eye shadow was colorless in appearance, but developed color when applied.
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Abstract
Description
特許文献2に記載の組成物は、水溶性抗酸化剤及びポリオキシエチレン付加型非イオン性界面活性剤を必須成分として含むため、満足のいく化粧持ちが得られない。特許文献2に記載の組成物を、油性メーキャップ化粧料とすること自体も困難な場合がある。
特許文献3に記載の化粧料も、肌又は口唇に塗布する前に既に、染料に起因する色が発色している。
(a)赤色218号及び赤色223号から選ばれる1種又は2種、及び、
(b)前記成分(a)と質量比(a):(b)=0.1:100で混合して得られる混合物の500~600nmの波長領域における吸光度の最大値と最小値の差が0.2以下である油剤
を含有する、無色の油性メーキャップ化粧料を提供する。
本発明の一つの実施態様に従い、前記成分(b)は、トリエチルヘキサノイン、トリメリト酸トリトリデシル、炭酸ジアルキル(C14、C15)、デカエチルヘキサン酸ポリグリセリル-10、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、ミネラルオイル、水添ポリイソブテン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン、ジメチルポリシロキサン、及びエメリー型のイソステアリン酸基を有するトリイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル-2から選ばれる1種又は2種以上でありうる。
本発明の一つの実施態様に従い、前記油性メーキャップ化粧料は、肌及び/又は口唇へ塗布した際に発色するものでありうる。
本発明の一つの実施態様に従い、前記油性メーキャップ化粧料は、(c)カルボキシビニルポリマー及びアルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマーから選ばれる1種又は2種以上をさらに含有しうる。
本発明の一つの実施態様に従い、前記成分(a)と前記成分(c)の含有質量割合が、(a)/(c)=0.1~2.0でありうる。
本発明の一つの実施態様に従い、前記油性メーキャップ化粧料は、(d)油性ゲル化剤をさらに含有しうる。
本発明の一つの実施態様に従い、前記油性メーキャップ化粧料が25℃で液状でありうる。
本発明の一つの実施態様に従い、前記油性メーキャップ化粧料の25℃における動粘度が10000~20000csでありうる。
本発明の一つの実施態様に従い、前記成分(b)の含有割合が、前記化粧料の質量に対して65~99.9質量%でありうる。
本発明の一つの実施態様に従い、前記成分(a)の含有割合が、前記化粧料の質量に対して0.01~1.0質量%でありうる。
本発明の一つの実施態様に従い、前記成分(c)の含有割合が、前記化粧料の質量に対して0.01~1.0質量%でありうる。
エステル油、例えばトリエチルヘキサノイン、トリメリト酸トリトリデシル、炭酸ジアルキル(C14、C15)、デカエチルヘキサン酸ポリグリセリル-10、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、及びエメリー型のイソステアリン酸基を有するトリイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル-2など;
炭化水素油、例えばミネラルオイル及び水添ポリイソブテンなど;及び
シリコーン油、例えばメチルフェニルポリシロキサン及びジメチルポリシロキサンなど
を挙げることができるが、これらに限定されない。
成分(b)として、これらの化合物の1種又は2種以上が用いられてもよい。
好ましくは、より優れた光安定性をもたらす点から、
エステル油のうち、特にはトリエチルヘキサノイン、トリメリト酸トリトリデシル、炭酸ジアルキル(C14、C15)、デカエチルヘキサン酸ポリグリセリル-10、若しくはリンゴ酸ジイソステアリル;
炭化水素油のうち、特にはミネラルオイル若しくは40℃での動粘度が10000cs以下もしくは平均分子量1000以下の水添ポリイソブテン;若しくは
シリコーン油のうち、特にはメチルフェニルポリシロキサン若しくは25℃での動粘度が10000cs以下もしくは平均分子量60000以下のジメチルポリシロキサン; 又は
これらの化合物の2種以上の組み合わせ
を成分(b)として用いることがより好ましい。
一般的に、イソステアリン酸には3種類の異性体が包含される。当該3種類のイソステアリン酸は、2-ヘプチルウンデカン酸、2-イソヘプチルイソウンデカン酸、及び構造が不確定のイソステアリン酸である。エメリー型のイソステアリン酸は、当該構造が不確定のイソステアリン酸であり、2-ヘプチルウンデカン酸でなく、2-イソヘプチルイソウンデカン酸でもない。エメリー型のイソステアリン酸は、メチル基を側鎖として有すると考えられているが、メチル基の位置が解明されていない。特にはこの理由により、エメリー型のイソステアリン酸の構造は明らかにされていない。
当該カルボキシビニルポリマーは、例えば主にアクリル酸から構成される重合体であって少量のアリルショ糖で架橋された前記重合体でありうる。本発明において、成分(c)は、前記重合体に限定されず、通常化粧料に用いられる他のカルボキシビニルポリマーであってもよい。
当該アルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマーは、例えばアルキル化処理されたカルボキシビニルポリマーでありうる。当該アルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマーとして、通常化粧料に用いられる化合物が用いられうる。特に、アルキル化処理により当該ポリマーが有するアルキル基の炭素数は10~30であることが好ましい。当該アルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマーとして、特には(アクリル酸/アクリル酸アルキル(C10-30))コポリマーが好ましい。これらの共重合体の平均分子量は好ましくは約50,000~3,000,000であり、より好ましくは750,000以上でありうる。
本発明の油性メーキャップ化粧料は、例えば粉体を含みうる。粉体は、好ましくはカチオン基を含まない粉体でありうる。カチオン基を含まない粉体として、例えば無水ケイ酸(シリカ)、シリコーン樹脂粉体、PMMA、タルク、及びマイカなどを挙げることができる。当該無水ケイ酸は、例えば成分(d)として用いられるシリカよりも大きい粒径を有しうる。
また、本発明の油性メーキャップ化粧料は、当該化粧料を肌や口唇などの体表面に塗布した後に、成分(a)に起因する色を発色することができる。すなわち、本発明により、外観は無色だが、肌や口唇などの体表面に塗布した際に発色する油性メーキャップ化粧料が提供される。
C*=(a2+b2)1/2
当該式において、a値及びb値は、ガラスセル(直径3.5cm、深さ1.2cm)に試料を満量充填し、そして、当該試料を分光色差計(SPECTRO COLORMETER SE-2000)により測定することで得られる。当該a値及びb値は、L*a*b*表色系(以下、「Lab表色系」ともいう)におけるa*値及びb*値である(以下、「L*値」、「a*値」、及び「b*値」をそれぞれ「L値」、「a値」、及び「b値」ともいう)。
当該a値は、当該化粧料を肌や口唇などの体表面に塗布する前に測定された値であり、すなわち、成分(a)に起因する色、特には赤色、が発色する前に当該化粧料を測定した場合の値である。当該a値は、上記で彩度C*の算出のために用いられるa値の測定方法と同じ方法で測定されうる。
本発明の油性メーキャップ化粧料のLab表色系におけるb値は、例えば5以下、好ましくは4以下、より好ましくは3以下である。また、本発明の油性メーキャップ化粧料のLab表色系におけるb値は、例えば-6以上、好ましくは-5以上、より好ましくは-4以上、さらにより好ましくは-3以上である。本発明の油性メーキャップ化粧料のb値の数値範囲は、上記上限値及び上記下限値からそれぞれ選択されたものにより規定される範囲であってよく、例えば-6~5、好ましくは-5~4、より好ましくは-4~3でありうる。
当該b値は、当該化粧料を肌や口唇などの体表面に塗布する前に測定された値であり、すなわち、成分(a)に起因する赤色が発色する前に当該化粧料を測定した場合の値である。当該b値は、上記で彩度C*の算出のために用いられるb値の測定方法と同じ方法で測定されうる。
本発明において、当該L値は、前記a値及びb値の測定法と同じ測定法により測定される。
白色のティッシュペーパーの彩度C*は、例えば0.1~5、特には1~3でありうる。当該白色のティッシュペーパーに本発明の油性メーキャップ化粧料を塗布した場合、当該化粧料が塗布された部分の彩度C*は、例えば20~60、特には25~55、さらにより特には30~50になりうる。
また、白色のティッシュペーパーのa値は、例えば-2~2、特には-1~1でありうる。当該白色のティッシュペーパーに本発明の油性メーキャップ化粧料を塗布した場合、当該化粧料が塗布された部分のa値は、例えば15~55、特には20~50、さらにより特には25~45になりうる。
また、本発明の化粧料が透明である場合、「無色」とは、例えば、光路長1cmのポリスチレン製透明セルに化粧料を充填し、25℃環境下において、500~600nmの吸光度を島津製作所社製の吸光光度計UV-2500PCにて測定し、500~600nmの波長領域における吸光度の最大値と最小値の差が0.5以下であることを指してもよい。
本発明の油性メーキャップ化粧料の製造方法は以上の方法に限定されるものでない。本発明の油性メーキャップ化粧料は、当業者に既知の他の方法により製造されてもよい。
成分(a)赤色218号と各種油剤とを質量比0.1:100で混合して各種組成物を得た。これら組成物夫々の組成は、下記表1に示されるとおりである。これら組成物の夫々について発色の有無(無色であるか)及び染着までの時間(染着力)を下記の評価基準に従い評価した。評価結果を下記表1に示す。なお、各組成物には、粘度を付与するためにゲル化剤としてジメチルシリル化シリカを含有させた。また、各組成物は、下記表1に記載されたとおりの成分を3本ローラーで均一に混合することにより得られた。
各組成物は光路長1cmのポリスチレン製透明セルに充填され、そして、25℃環境下において、500~600nmでの吸光度が島津製作所社製の吸光光度計UV-2500PCにより測定された。500~600nmの波長領域において測定された吸光度の最大値と最小値の差を算出し、そして、当該差に基づき、下記評価基準に従い発色の有無が評価された。
(評価基準):(判定結果)
(最大値-最小値)≦0.2:A(無色)
(最大値-最小値)>0.2:B
実験例1~12の組成物の夫々を、市販のティッシュペーパー上に塗布し、塗布時点から赤く染着するまでの時間を計測した。計測結果に基づき、下記評価基準に従い各組成物の染着力が評価された。
(評価基準):(判定結果)
塗布後、5秒以内に染着:A
塗布後、5秒を超え30秒以内に染着:B
塗布後、30秒を超え染着、もしくは染着しない:C
表1に示されるとおり、実験例1~5、7~8、及び10~11の組成物は、塗布後5秒以内に染着した。また、実験例6及び9の組成物は、塗布後5秒超~30秒で染着した。
比較実験例1~3の組成物は、塗布前の外観と塗布後の色との間に変化は見られなかった。比較実験例1~3の組成物は、赤色218号と油剤とを混合した直後に発色してしまっていたため、染着までの時間は評価しなかった。
成分(a)赤色223号と各種油剤とを質量比0.1:100で混合して各種組成物を得た。これら組成物夫々の組成は、下記表2に示されるとおりである。これら組成物の夫々について発色の有無(無色であるか)、染着までの時間(染着力)、及び、光安定性(褪色のなさ)を評価した。発色の有無(無色であるか)及び染着までの時間(染着力)の評価基準は、上記<1-1.赤色218号について>に記載されたとおりである。光安定性(褪色のなさ)の評価基準は、以下に記載されたとおりである。評価結果を下記表2に示す。なお、各組成物には、粘度を付与するためにゲル化剤としてジメチルシリル化シリカを含有させた。また、各組成物は、下記表2に記載されたとおりの成分を3本ローラーで均一に混合することにより得られた。
実験例2-1~2-12の組成物を、透明の容器(PET)に充填し、8000~10000ルクスの白色蛍光環境下に1週間静置した。当該静置後、各組成物を、市販のティッシュペーパーの上に塗布した。塗布した直後から赤く染着するまでの時間を計測し、下記評価基準に従い各組成物の光安定性を評価した。
(評価基準):(判定)
塗布後、5秒以内に染着:A
塗布後、5秒を超え30秒以内に染着:B
塗布後、30秒を超え発色、もしくは染着しない:C
また、実験例2-1~2-8及び2-10~2-11の組成物は、塗布後5秒を超え30秒以内に染着した。また、実験例2-9及び2-12の組成物は、塗布後、30秒を超えた時点で発色した。よって、実験例2-1~2-8及び2-10~2-11の組成物に含まれる油剤によって、より優れた染着力を油性メーキャップ化粧料に与えることができる。
また、実験例2-2~2-7及び2-10~2-11の組成物は、1週間の光照射後においても、塗布後5秒を超え30秒以内に染着した。また、実験例2-1、2-8~2-9、及び2-12の組成物は、塗布後、30秒を超えた時点で発色した。よって、実験例2-2~2-7及び2-10~2-11の組成物に含まれる油剤によって、より優れた光安定性を油性メーキャップ化粧料に与えることができる。
比較実験例2-1~2-3の組成物の塗布前の外観と塗布後の色との間に変化は見られなかった。比較実験例2-1~2-3の組成物は、赤色223号と油剤とを混合した直後に発色してしまっていたため、染着までの時間及び光安定性を評価しなかった。
また、実験例1~12の組成物と実験例2-1~2-12の組成物とを比較すると、実験例1~12の組成物のほうが、より優れた染着力を有する傾向にある。そのため、赤色218号を用いた場合は、赤色223号を用いる場合と比べて、より優れた染着力が油性メーキャップ化粧料に与えられる。
実施例1~16及び比較例1~5
表3に示される組成を有する油性口唇用化粧料を下記製造方法に従って調製した。得られた油性口唇用化粧料の夫々について、発色の有無(無色であるか)、塗布した際の染着までの時間、一定環境下での光安定性及び高温安定性、及び化粧料の外観の透明性を、下記評価方法に従い評価した。評価結果は表3に示されている。
A.成分(1)~(5)を均一混合する。
B.Aと成分(6)~(21)、(23)を三本ローラーにて均一混合する。
C.Bと成分(22)を均一混合する。
D.Cを100℃まで加熱し、容器に充填し、油性口唇用化粧料を得た。
各化粧料は光路長1cmのポリスチレン製透明セルに充填され、そして、25℃環境下において、500~600nmでの吸光度が島津製作所社製の吸光光度計UV-2500PCにより測定された。500~600nmの波長領域において測定された吸光度の最大値と最小値の差を算出し、そして、当該差に基づき、下記評価基準に従い発色の有無が評価された。
(評価基準):(判定)
(最大値-最小値)≦0.5:A(無色)
(最大値-最小値)>0.5:B
各化粧料を市販のティッシュペーパーの上に塗布し、塗布時点から赤く染着するまでの時間を計測した。計測結果に基づき、下記評価基準に従い各組成物の染着力が評価された。
(評価基準):(判定)
塗布後、5秒以内に染着:A
塗布後、5秒を超え30秒以内に染着:B
塗布後、30秒を超え発色、もしくは染着しない:C
各化粧料を、透明の容器(PET)に充填し、8000~10000ルクスの白色蛍光環境下に1週間静置した。当該静置後、各化粧料を、市販のティッシュペーパーの上に塗布した。塗布した直後から赤く染着するまでの時間を計測し、下記評価基準に従い各化粧料の光安定性を評価した。
(評価基準):(判定)
塗布後、5秒以内に染着:A
塗布後、5秒を超え30秒以内に染着:B
塗布後、30秒を超え発色、もしくは染着しない:C
各化粧料を、50℃の恒温槽に1週間静置した。当該静置後、各化粧料は光路長1cmのポリスチレン製透明セルに充填され、そして、25℃環境下において、500~600nmでの吸光度が島津製作所社製の吸光光度計UV-2500PCにより測定された。500~600nmの波長領域において測定された吸光度の最大値と最小値の差を算出し、当該差に基づき、下記評価基準に従い高温安定性が評価された。
(評価基準):(判定)
(最大値-最小値)≦0.5:A(無色)
(最大値-最小値)>0.5:B
透明のガラス板上に500μlの厚さで各化粧料の塗膜を作成した。当該ガラス板の下に格子模様を印字した紙を敷き、格子模様が目視で明確に確認できるかを下記評価基準に従い評価した。
(評価基準):(判定)
明確に格子模様が見える:A
格子模様が明確に見えない:B
各化粧料の動粘度を、ASTM D445測定方法により25℃にて測定した。測定結果に基づき、各化粧料を下記基準に従い分類した。
(基準):(分類)
動粘度が20000csより大きい:3
動粘度が10000cs以上20000cs未満:2
動粘度が10000cs未満:1
また、図1に、実施例1並びに比較例2及び3の油性口唇用化粧料の吸光度の測定結果を示す。図1からも、比較例2及び3の油性口唇用化粧料は塗布前において発色したが、実施例1の油性口唇用化粧料は、塗布前において発色がないことが確認できる。
実施例1~15は、高温安定性に優れていた。一方で、実施例16は、実施例1~15と比べると、高温安定性が劣っており、経時で化粧料が赤くなった。
実施例1~14及び実施例16は、透明性に優れていた。一方で、実施例15は、他の実施例と比べると、透明性に劣っていた。
実施例1~14及び実施例16は、光安定性に優れていた。一方で、赤色218号の代わりに赤色223号を含有させた実施例15は、他の実施例と比べると、光安定性が劣っていた。
以上のとおり、実施例1~14の油性口唇用化粧料はいずれも、外観は無色だが塗布した際に発色し、光安定性及び高温安定性に優れ、且つ、透明性にも優れていた。
赤色218号の代わりに、赤色223号を含有させた実施例15では、他の実施例と比べると、光安定性に劣っていた。そのため、赤色218号を用いた場合、赤色223号を用いた場合よりも光安定性に優れた化粧料が得られるという効果が奏されることが分かる。
成分(c)を含有しない実施例16においては、他の実施例と比べると、高温安定に劣り、経時で化粧料が赤くなってしまった。よって、成分(c)を含有することで、高温安定性に優れるという効果が奏されることが分かる。
成分(b)以外の液状成分を0.5%よりも多く含有した比較例1~5においては、外観が赤色に発色してしまい、塗布前後で色の変化が起きなかった。
実施例2-1~2-16及び比較例2-1~2-5
表4に示す組成の油性口唇用化粧料を下記製造方法に従って調製した。得られた油性口唇用化粧料の夫々について、発色の有無(無色であるか)、塗布した際の染着までの時間、一定環境下での光安定性及び高温安定性、及び化粧料の外観の透明性を、上記<2.赤色218号を含む油性口唇用化粧料>において記載した評価方法に従い評価した。評価結果は表4に示されている。
実施例2-1~2-15は、高温安定性に優れていた。一方で、実施例2-16は、実施例2-1~2-15と比べると、高温安定性が劣っており、経時で化粧料が赤くなった。
実施例2-1~2-16はいずれも透明性に優れていた。
実施例2-1~2-7、2-9~2-12、及び2-15~2-16は、光安定性に優れていた。一方で、実施例2-8、2-13及び2-14は、他の実施例と比べると、光安定性が劣っていた。
以上のとおり、実施例2-1~2-15の油性口唇用化粧料は、外観は無色だが塗布した際に発色し、光安定性及び高温安定性に優れ、且つ、透明性に優れていた。
成分(c)を含有しない、実施例2-16においては、実施例2-1~2-15と比べると、高温安定に劣り、経時で化粧料が赤くなってしまった。よって、成分(c)を含有することで、高温安定性に優れるという効果が奏されることが分かる。
成分(b)以外の液状成分を0.5%よりも多く含有した比較例2-1~2-5においては、外観が発色してしまい、塗布前後で色の変化が起きなかった。
上記<2.赤色218号を含む油性口唇用化粧料>及び<3.赤色223号を含む油性口唇用化粧料>において製造された実施例1及び10、比較例3、実施例2-1及び2-11、並びに比較例2-2の油性口唇用化粧料のLab表色系におけるL値、a値、及びb値を測定した。また、当該測定結果のa値及びb値に基づき、彩度C*を算出した。
当該測定は、ガラスセル(直径3.5cm、深さ1.2cm)に満量充填された各化粧料について、分光色差計(SPECTRO COLORMETER SE-2000)により行われた。
評価結果を以下表5に示す。なお、表5中の発色の有無は、上記<2.赤色218号を含む油性口唇用化粧料>及び<3.赤色223号を含む油性口唇用化粧料>において記載された結果である。
また、実施例1及び10並びに実施例2-1及び2-11の化粧料のa値はいずれも4以下であった。すなわち、これらの化粧料のいずれにおいても赤色の発色が抑制されていた。
実施例1の油性口唇用化粧料を白色のティッシュペーパーに塗布した後に発色した色のLab値を測定した。また、当該測定結果に基づき、彩度を算出した。また、発色の程度を評価するために、塗布前の当該ティッシュペーパーのLab値及び彩度も同様に得た。これらのLab値及び彩度を以下の表6に示す。
赤色染料と特定の油剤とを組合せた場合の赤色発色抑制が、上記<1.染料と油剤とを含む組成物による発色の評価>にて採用したゲル状の剤型の組成物だけでなく、他の剤型の組成物においても達成されることを、以下の実験により確認した。
当該測定は、ガラスセル(直径3.5cm、深さ1.2cm)に満量充填された各化粧料について、分光色差計(SPECTRO COLORMETER SE-2000)により行われた。
評価結果も以下表7に示す。なお、表7中の発色の有無は、上記<1.染料と油剤とを含む組成物による発色の評価>において記載されたとおりの評価基準により評価された。
また、組成物1~6の写真を図2に示す。
組成物4~6は、表7に記載されるとおり、(エチレン/プロピレン)コポリマーを含む。(エチレン/プロピレン)コポリマーは、炭化水素系固形油である。組成物4~6は、固形であった。
また、組成物4及び5は固形(ワックス状)であった。そのため、化粧料の剤型が固形である場合においても、ゲル状である場合と同様に、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリルが油剤の大部分を占めることにより、赤色218号の赤色の発色が抑制されることが確認された。
一方で、組成物6は、赤色を呈していた。すなわち、組成物6では、赤色218号に起因する赤色の発色が抑制されなかった。
また、組成物6は固形(ワックス状)であった。そのため、化粧料の剤型が固形である場合においても、ゲル状である場合と同様に、油剤である(ビニルピロリドン/ヘキサデセン)コポリマーを多く含むことで、赤色218号の赤色の発色が抑制されないことが確認された。
以上のとおり、赤色染料と特定の油剤とを組合せた場合の赤色発色抑制が、上記<1.染料と油剤とを含む組成物による発色の評価>にて採用したゲル状の剤型の組成物だけでなく、固形の組成物においても達成されることが確認された。
以下の組成を有する頬紅を、以下の製造方法に従い製造した。
(1)パルミチン酸デキストリン ※20 3
(2)ミネラルオイル ※11 20
(3)メチルフェニルポリシロキサン ※14 5
(4)トリメリト酸トリトリデシル ※5 10
(5)トリイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル-2
(エメリー型) ※3 1
(6)シリコーン被覆マイカ 残量
(7)中空シリカ ※22 10
(8)シリカ被覆酸化チタン 2
(9)R218 ※1 0.03
(10)R223 ※17 0.01
(11)ジメチルシリル化シリカ ※2 0.4
(12)(アクリル酸/アクリル酸アルキル(C10―30))
コポリマー ※18 0.08
(13)プロテオグリカン 0.01
(14)コーン油 0.02
(15)ローズヒップオイル 0.02
※22:Silica micro bead BA-1(日揮触媒化成社製)
A.成分(1)~(5)を、80℃にて均一に溶解する。
B.Aに(6)~(15)を加え、均一に混合する。
C.Bを100℃まで加熱し、容器に充填し、頬紅を得た。
以下の組成を有するアイシャドウを、以下の製造方法に従い製造した。
(1)トリメチルシロキシケイ酸 ※23 5
(2)トリメリト酸トリトリデシル ※5 10
(3)メチルフェニルポリシロキサン ※14 5
(4)イソドデカン 20
(5)シリコーン被覆タルク 10
(6)シリコーン被覆マイカ 残量
(7)シリコーン被覆酸化チタン 2
(8)R218 ※1 0.03
(9)R223 ※17 0.01
(10)ジメチルシリル化シリカ ※2 0.4
(11)(アクリル酸/アクリル酸アルキル(C10―30))
コポリマー ※18 0.08
(12)杏仁油 0.02
(13)オリーブ油 0.02
※23:SR1000(モメンティブ・パフォーマンス・マテリアルズ社製)
A.成分(1)~(4)を、均一に溶解する。
B.Aに(5)~(13)を加え、均一に混合する。
C.Bを容器に充填し、アイシャドウを得た。
Claims (11)
- (a)赤色218号及び赤色223号から選ばれる1種又は2種、及び、
(b)前記成分(a)と質量比(a):(b)=0.1:100で混合して得られる混合物の500~600nmの波長領域における吸光度の最大値と最小値の差が0.2以下である油剤
を含有する、無色の油性メーキャップ化粧料。 - 前記成分(b)が、トリエチルヘキサノイン、トリメリト酸トリトリデシル、炭酸ジアルキル(C14、C15)、デカエチルヘキサン酸ポリグリセリル-10、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、ミネラルオイル、水添ポリイソブテン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン、ジメチルポリシロキサン、及びエメリー型のイソステアリン酸基を有するトリイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル-2から選ばれる1種又は2種以上である、請求項1に記載の油性メーキャップ化粧料。
- 前記油性メーキャップ化粧料は、肌及び/又は口唇へ塗布した際に発色する、請求項1又は2に記載の油性メーキャップ化粧料。
- 前記油性メーキャップ化粧料が、(c)カルボキシビニルポリマー及びアルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマーから選ばれる1種又は2種以上をさらに含有する、請求項1~3のいずれか一項に記載の油性メーキャップ化粧料。
- 前記成分(a)と前記成分(c)の含有質量割合が、(a)/(c)=0.1~2.0である、請求項4に記載の油性メーキャップ化粧料。
- 前記油性メーキャップ化粧料が、(d)油性ゲル化剤をさらに含有する、請求項1~5のいずれか一項に記載の油性メーキャップ化粧料。
- 前記油性メーキャップ化粧料が25℃で液状である、請求項1~6のいずれか一項に記載の油性メーキャップ化粧料。
- 前記油性メーキャップ化粧料の25℃における動粘度が10000~20000csである、請求項1~7のいずれか一項に記載の油性メーキャップ化粧料。
- 前記成分(b)の含有割合が、前記化粧料の質量に対して65~99.9質量%である、請求項1~8のいずれか一項に記載の油性メーキャップ化粧料。
- 前記成分(a)の含有割合が、前記化粧料の質量に対して0.01~1.0質量%である、請求項1~9のいずれか一項に記載の油性メーキャップ化粧料。
- 前記成分(c)の含有割合が、前記化粧料の質量に対して0.01~1.0質量%である、請求項4~10のいずれか一項に記載の油性メーキャップ化粧料。
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WO2018199314A1 (ja) * | 2017-04-28 | 2018-11-01 | 株式会社コーセー | 油性化粧料 |
JP2021098673A (ja) * | 2019-12-23 | 2021-07-01 | 花王株式会社 | 油性化粧料 |
JP6925086B1 (ja) * | 2021-02-25 | 2021-08-25 | 株式会社伊勢半 | 油性口唇化粧料 |
JP2022003082A (ja) * | 2016-11-14 | 2022-01-11 | 株式会社コーセー | 油性メーキャップ化粧料 |
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