WO2011129428A1 - Composition cosmétique contenant de l'extrait de prunier - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique contenant de l'extrait de prunier Download PDF

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WO2011129428A1
WO2011129428A1 PCT/JP2011/059358 JP2011059358W WO2011129428A1 WO 2011129428 A1 WO2011129428 A1 WO 2011129428A1 JP 2011059358 W JP2011059358 W JP 2011059358W WO 2011129428 A1 WO2011129428 A1 WO 2011129428A1
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Prior art keywords
ume
extract
present
skin
composition
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PCT/JP2011/059358
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English (en)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
浩一 瀬田
暢浩 加藤
大二郎 大谷
貴也 峯尾
郁子 安達
文 佐々木
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ワミレスコスメティックス株式会社
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Publication of WO2011129428A1 publication Critical patent/WO2011129428A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/73—Rosaceae (Rose family), e.g. strawberry, chokeberry, blackberry, pear or firethorn
    • A61K36/736—Prunus, e.g. plum, cherry, peach, apricot or almond
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A23—FOODS OR FOODSTUFFS; TREATMENT THEREOF, NOT COVERED BY OTHER CLASSES
    • A23L—FOODS, FOODSTUFFS, OR NON-ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES, NOT COVERED BY SUBCLASSES A21D OR A23B-A23J; THEIR PREPARATION OR TREATMENT, e.g. COOKING, MODIFICATION OF NUTRITIVE QUALITIES, PHYSICAL TREATMENT; PRESERVATION OF FOODS OR FOODSTUFFS, IN GENERAL
    • A23L33/00—Modifying nutritive qualities of foods; Dietetic products; Preparation or treatment thereof
    • A23L33/10—Modifying nutritive qualities of foods; Dietetic products; Preparation or treatment thereof using additives
    • A23L33/105—Plant extracts, their artificial duplicates or their derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P43/00—Drugs for specific purposes, not provided for in groups A61P1/00-A61P41/00
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C12—BIOCHEMISTRY; BEER; SPIRITS; WINE; VINEGAR; MICROBIOLOGY; ENZYMOLOGY; MUTATION OR GENETIC ENGINEERING
    • C12N—MICROORGANISMS OR ENZYMES; COMPOSITIONS THEREOF; PROPAGATING, PRESERVING, OR MAINTAINING MICROORGANISMS; MUTATION OR GENETIC ENGINEERING; CULTURE MEDIA
    • C12N9/00—Enzymes; Proenzymes; Compositions thereof; Processes for preparing, activating, inhibiting, separating or purifying enzymes
    • C12N9/14—Hydrolases (3)
    • C12N9/24—Hydrolases (3) acting on glycosyl compounds (3.2)
    • C12N9/2402—Hydrolases (3) acting on glycosyl compounds (3.2) hydrolysing O- and S- glycosyl compounds (3.2.1)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A23—FOODS OR FOODSTUFFS; TREATMENT THEREOF, NOT COVERED BY OTHER CLASSES
    • A23V—INDEXING SCHEME RELATING TO FOODS, FOODSTUFFS OR NON-ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES AND LACTIC OR PROPIONIC ACID BACTERIA USED IN FOODSTUFFS OR FOOD PREPARATION
    • A23V2002/00—Food compositions, function of food ingredients or processes for food or foodstuffs

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition containing extracts from various parts of ume.
  • the composition of the present invention is particularly useful as a cosmetic or a food or drink.
  • Patent Document 1 provides a cosmetic characterized by blending a ume seed extract.
  • radical scavenging action collagenase activity inhibitory action (collageno kit CLN-100) was obtained from an extract obtained from ground pulverized seeds of ume (variety unknown) using water, ethanol, 1,3-butylene glycol, or methanol as a solvent.
  • Use It seems to be using fluorescently labeled type I collagen.
  • Hyaluronidase activity inhibitory action (details are unknown, such as origin of hyaluronidase used in the measurement), changes in cell hue in B16 cells confirmed Has been.
  • lotions, shampoos, creams, body gels, hair packs, and granular bath preparations containing ume seed extract have been prepared, and sensory tests have confirmed the feeling of use.
  • Patent Documents 2 to 4 include at least one selected from the group consisting of plum tree trunks, plum tree branches, plum tree leaves, plum tree stems, plum tree roots, plum meat, ume seed shells and ume seeds.
  • methanol extract of Minamitakaume Jin and / or leaf stem part has an effect on gastric mucosal damage by methanol in rats, a radical (DPPH) elimination effect, an inhibitory effect on blood sugar level increase after glucose load in healthy rats, Inhibition of aldose reductase, promotion of aggregation when platelets of healthy rabbits were washed with platelet-activating factor (PAF), suppression of D-galactosamine / LPS-induced liver inflammation in healthy mice, D-in rat primary cultured hepatocytes Inhibition of galactosamine-induced acute hepatitis and inhibition of NO acid from macrophages in the abdominal cavity of healthy mice by stimulation with LPS, tyrosinase inhibitory action, radical (DPPH) elimination action, and washing of healthy rabbits of ume flower methanol extract Aggregation-promoting action has been confirmed when platelets are stimulated with platelet-activating factor (PAF)
  • PAF platelet-activating factor
  • Patent Document 5 describes a collagen production promoter characterized by containing an extract from the fruit part of ume as an active ingredient.
  • human fibroblasts are extracted from a dried fruit juice obtained by washing, crushing, and enucleating the ume (variety unknown) fruit juice and using a mixed solvent of ethanol and water. Has been confirmed to promote collagen production (using anti-human collagen type I rabbit IgG).
  • JP 2002-284633 A JP 2000-239297 A JP 2002-370922 A JP 2004-115542 A JP 2006-176425 A
  • the present inventors have focused on a material called ume having a high pharmacological effect, and have developed a cosmetic characterized by comprising a fermented ume juice (No. 2526362).
  • a fermented ume juice No. 2526362
  • the present inventors have completed the present invention by discovering previously unknown actions such as elastase activity inhibitory action, gelatinase activity inhibitory action, Maillard reaction inhibitory action and the like.
  • the present invention provides the following: [1] A group consisting of water, water vapor, purified water, mineral water, ethanol, propylene glycol, and 1,3-butylene glycol from one or more sites selected from roots, branches and bark of ume A cosmetic composition containing, as a dry powder, 0.05 to 250 mg / 100 g of an extract from one or more solvents selected from the group consisting of 0.015 to 5 g / 100 g of an emulsifier. [2] The composition according to [1], wherein the emulsifier is lysolecithin, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated lecithin, soybean sterol, or any combination thereof.
  • FIG. 1 is a photograph showing the results of a gelatinase activity inhibitory effect test.
  • FIG. 2 is a photograph showing the results of the Maillard reaction inhibitory effect test.
  • FIG. 3 is a photograph showing the results of a test for examining the amount of emulsifier.
  • FIG. 4 is a photograph showing the results of a test for examining the amount of emulsifier.
  • ume refers to ume (plum, scientific name: Prunus mume), which is a deciduous tree of the genus Rosaceae. Ume can be roughly divided into flower plums and real plums.
  • Examples of real plums are Bungo, Shirakaga, Bakujuku, Moon World, Koshu Minato, Tammei, Kojo, and Minami High School.
  • the term “Bungo” for ume varieties refers to Bungo classified as real plum, unless otherwise specified.
  • ume refers to a plant body of a ume plant or a part thereof unless otherwise specified.
  • Parts include fruits, seeds, organs or parts thereof (including leaves, roots, stems, flowers, stamens, pistils, fragments thereof), plant culture cells, callus, protoplasts, transformed plant cells, traits Converted plants are included.
  • “Wakae” refers to a branch in which a new tree that grows in early spring begins to grow and grows about 5 to 30 cm, and the skin is soft, unless otherwise specified.
  • the term “root” includes fine roots, medium roots and thick roots, as well as old roots and others. Fine roots are those with a diameter of less than 3 mm.
  • the middle root means one having a diameter of 3 mm or more and less than 10 mm.
  • a radish is one having a diameter of 10 mm or more.
  • Old root is a general term for roots obtained from ume plants over 30 years old.
  • any part of ume can be used effectively, but from the viewpoint that various effects can be expected, roots and branches (especially young branches) are preferable, and roots are more preferable.
  • elastase refers to a protease having elastin as a typical substrate, unless otherwise specified.
  • Elastin is a kind of a hard protein that is rich in elasticity and constitutes connective tissues, tendons, aortic skin, cervical cord and the like of higher animals. There are many crosslinks between peptide chains constituting this protein, which brings about elasticity.
  • the term “gelatinase” is a protease using a type IV collagen that is a basement membrane component as a typical substrate, unless otherwise specified, and is a matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) group of MMP-2 and MMP-9. Is included.
  • MMP matrix metalloproteinase
  • the presence or absence and / or degree of the ability to inhibit the target gelatinase activity can be confirmed and measured appropriately by those skilled in the art using known means. For example, it can be carried out using a commercially available MMP marker for gelatin zymography, which contains MMP-2, ProMMP-2, ProMMP-9 or a mixture thereof.
  • MMP-2 MMP-2, ProMMP-2, ProMMP-9 or a mixture thereof.
  • MMP-9 for gelatin zymography
  • Collagenase refers to a type of protease using type I collagen as a typical substrate, unless otherwise specified.
  • Collagenase includes MMP-1, which is a matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) that degrades type I and type III collagen, which are the main components of the skin matrix.
  • MMP-1 matrix metalloproteinase
  • Collagen is a main component of the extracellular matrix of animals, and is known to have a physical function of maintaining the structure and exhibit cell adhesion activity. It is also contained in large amounts in the skin and is related to elasticity and strength. There are I to VIII in collagen.
  • the presence or absence and / or degree of the ability to inhibit the target collagenase activity can be confirmed and measured appropriately by those skilled in the art using known means. For detailed conditions, reference can be made to the Examples section of this specification. In the present invention, the presence or absence and / or degree of inhibition of collagenase activity is based on the method described in the examples of the present specification, unless otherwise specified.
  • hyaluronidase refers to an enzyme that lowers the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid, unless otherwise specified, and an enzyme that hydrolyzes the N-acetyl-D-hexosaminide bond of hyaluronic acid.
  • Hyaluronidase is present in the skin.
  • Hyaluronic acid is a kind of glycosaminoglycan having a repeating structure of only disaccharides of O- ⁇ -D-glucuronosyl (1 ⁇ 3) -N-acetyl- ⁇ -D-glucosaminyl (1 ⁇ 4) units. It is present in connective tissues such as animal joint fluid and dermis.
  • fibroblast activation means that the proliferation ability of normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) can be enhanced.
  • the presence / absence / degree of cell proliferation can be determined by counting the number of living cells. Various methods are known for determining the number of viable cells.
  • the presence and / or degree of the ability to activate the target fibroblasts can be confirmed and measured appropriately by those skilled in the art using known means. For detailed conditions, reference can be made to the Examples section of this specification. In the present invention, the presence or absence and / or degree of fibroblast activation activity is based on the method described in the examples of the present specification, unless otherwise specified.
  • melanin production inhibition refers to inhibition of melanocyte activator synthesis, inhibition of melanocyte activator, tyrosinase synthesis / maturation inhibition, melanin synthase (tyrosinase etc.) activity inhibition, melanin, unless otherwise specified
  • melanin is an oxidation polymer derived from tyrosine.
  • melanogenesis occurs in melanophores and melanocytes differentiated from neural crest-derived melanoblasts.
  • the aromatic amino acid tyrosine changes stepwise within the melanosome, and finally polymerizes non-enzymatically into melanin, followed by the formation of melanin granules.
  • the component of the agent of the present invention not only has high melanin production inhibitory activity but is not cytotoxic.
  • Such a preferable effect can be represented by a value obtained by multiplying the melanin production inhibition rate and the cell survival rate, as described in Examples described later.
  • a person skilled in the art confirms and measures the presence and / or degree of the ability to suppress melanin production and the presence and / or degree of cytotoxicity using known means as appropriate, for example, using B16 melanoma cells. can do.
  • known means for example, using B16 melanoma cells. can do.
  • the presence and / or degree of melanin production inhibitory activity is based on the method described in the examples of the present specification, unless otherwise specified.
  • “Maillard reaction” refers to a reaction in which a brown substance (melanoidin) is generated from a sugar and a protein by an aminocarbonyl reaction, unless otherwise specified.
  • the Maillard reaction is usually a non-enzymatic reaction in which an Amadori rearrangement product (Amadori compound) is generated after a reducing sugar reacts with an amino group of a protein to form a Schiff base. Then, through complex reactions such as oxidation, dehydration, condensation, intramolecular and intermolecular cross-linking, the mixture gradually becomes yellowish brown and AGEs (advanced glycation end products) which are late stage products of the Maillard reaction are produced.
  • Amadori rearrangement product Amadori compound
  • the Maillard reaction that occurs in vivo is considered to be involved in the formation of brown spots on the skin seen in diabetic patients.
  • AGE is included in the pigment that causes brown spots.
  • In vivo Maillard reaction has also been shown to be associated with lifestyle-related diseases, diseases accelerated by aging (eg, diabetic complications, Alzheimer's disease, arteriosclerosis).
  • AGE is a generic name for various structures produced from the Amadori rearrangement product through complex reactions such as oxidation, dehydration, and condensation, including carboxymethyllysine, pyralin, pentosidine, croslin, imidazolone, etc.
  • a polymer of protein dimer or higher is also known as AGE.
  • the term “antioxidation” means that the active oxygen is suppressed (not generated, erased, or suppressed) unless otherwise specified.
  • a person skilled in the art can appropriately confirm and measure the presence and / or degree of the antioxidant ability of a subject using known means.
  • DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) radical scavenging, superoxide dismutase (SOD) -like action, hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2 ) scavenging, TRAP (Total Radical-trapping Antioxidant Parameter), FRAP (Ferric Reducing Ability of Plasma), ⁇ -carotene fading, etc.
  • SOD superoxide dismutase
  • H 2 O 2 hydrogen peroxide
  • TRAP Total Radical-trapping Antioxidant Parameter
  • FRAP Frerric Reducing Ability of Plasma
  • ⁇ -carotene fading etc.
  • the presence or absence and / or degree of antioxidant ability refers to the methods described in the examples of the present specification (DPPH radical elimination method, SOD method, H 2 O 2 elimination method) unless otherwise specified. It depends on either.
  • “suppressing the progress of aging” means delaying the progress of aging. Suppression of the progress of aging is sometimes expressed as anti-aging or anti-aging.
  • the extract of ume that can be used in the composition of the present invention refers to a product obtained by extracting each part of the ume with a solvent (including liquid and gaseous states). You may use each part of a ume after freeze-drying.
  • the solvent to be extracted include water (including a liquid obtained by subjecting a specific portion of ume to steam distillation), steam, purified water, mineral water, lower alcohols (methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, etc.), polyhydric alcohols (glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, etc.), ketones (acetone, methyl ketone, etc.), ethers (diethyl ether, tetrahydrofuran, etc.) ).
  • polar solvents such as steam, purified water, steam distilled liquid, mineral spring water, lower alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, particularly preferably purified water, steam distilled liquid, mineral water, ethanol, propylene glycol, 1,3 -Butylene glycol is good. These solvents may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
  • the composition of the present invention may also contain an extract obtained from each of a plurality of extraction solvents.
  • the composition of the present invention contains an ethanol extract (an extract using 90% or more of ethanol), according to the study by the present inventors, the ume ethanol extract contains a hardly water-soluble component. Therefore, in order to solubilize in the composition and enhance the stability, it is preferable to further include an emulsifier as described later.
  • an ethanol extract an extract using ethanol having a purity of 90% or more
  • water including a liquid obtained by subjecting a specific part of ume to steam distillation
  • the purity of the solvent and the concentration of the mixed solvent for example, 95% ethanol
  • it is based on the volume unless otherwise specified.
  • a steam distilled liquid is used as an extraction solvent and is added to the composition as it is.
  • the steam distilled liquid is obtained by continuously applying heated steam to a target (for example, ume fruit or ume shoots) in a container and cooling and collecting the steam flowing out from the container.
  • the obtained liquid may contain various components derived from the subject.
  • composition of the present invention is composed of two or more components, preferably in a form suitable for external use on the skin or as a food, and more preferably in the form of a cosmetic or health food.
  • the composition or agent of the present invention does not include existing cosmetics and the like. Regarding the present invention, the description of the composition also applies to the agent unless otherwise specified.
  • the content of the ume extract is not particularly limited as long as the intended effect is exhibited.
  • concentration of the ume extract in an agent by this invention it is the value calculated based on the weight of the ume extract with respect to the composition total weight except the case where it describes especially.
  • the weight of the ume extract was soaked in a solvent so that the dried ume portion was 5% W / W, and was kept at 20 to 40 ° C. for 3 to 5 days (medium 2 to 4). It is the weight expressed as the filtrate or dried product of the extract obtained by extraction between the two days. That is, the extract or dry matter obtained under other conditions is converted into the equivalent amount under the above conditions.
  • composition of the present invention includes fats, waxes, hydrocarbons, fatty acids, alcohols, esters, amino acids, vitamins, which are components used in ordinary external preparations, as long as the desired effects are not impaired.
  • Surfactants, pH adjusters, antiseptics, fragrances, moisturizers, powders, UV absorbers, thickeners, pigments, antioxidants, whitening agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-wrinkle agents, rough skin improvers, Components such as acne agents, alkalis, chelating agents, sequestering agents and the like can also be blended.
  • ingredients such as sodium sulfate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, calcium carbonate, potassium chloride, oily ingredients, emulsifiers, succinic acid, herbal medicines, inorganic pigments, fragrances, and pigments, which are components used in ordinary bath additives, You can also.
  • composition of the present invention can also be prepared into various dosage forms such as a solid agent, a semi-solid agent, and a liquid agent depending on the purpose of use.
  • the composition of the present invention can be in any form of cosmetics, quasi drugs, and pharmaceuticals.
  • cosmetics as skin care cosmetics, facial soap, facial cream, facial cleansing foam, lotion (replenishes the skin with moisture and moisturizing ingredients and keeps the skin fresh and is usually a transparent or translucent liquid. Depending on the intended use.
  • an amount corresponding to the steam extract obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present invention preferably, a steam distilled liquid of ume shoots.
  • 10 to 50 g / 100 g, preferably 15 to 45 g / 100 g, more preferably 20 to 40 g / 100 g, and a steam distilled liquid obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present invention preferably , A steam distilled liquid of ume fruit
  • a steam distilled liquid of ume fruit can be blended in an amount of 35 to 65 g / 100 g, preferably 40 to 60 g / 100 g, more preferably 45 to 55 g / 100 g.
  • 0.05 to 250 mg / 100 g, preferably 0.1 to 15 mg / 100 g, More preferably, 1-10 mg / 100 g can be blended, and the method described in Example 1 of the present invention
  • 0.05 to 15 g / 100 g, preferably 0.1 to 10 g / 100 g, more preferably 0.5 to 5 g / 100 g may be blended. It can. Also in this case, each may be blended alone in the above amounts, or may be blended in combination in the above amounts. It is more preferable to combine them.
  • blending amount of the ume extract in the present invention means an amount corresponding to the extract obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present specification, unless otherwise specified.
  • the ume extract is extracted with the ume extract obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present invention (preferably, extraction of ume root with a ume shoot branch steam distillate).
  • the amount corresponding to dry powder of ume extract (preferably, dry powder of extract of ume root with 95% ethanol) is 0.1 to 250 mg / 100 g, preferably 0.3 to 15 mg / 100 g, more preferably 0.5 to 10 mg. / 100g can be blended.
  • the ume extract and the dried product may be blended alone in the above amounts or in combination. It is more preferable to combine them.
  • the ume extract corresponds to the ume extract obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present invention (preferably, the extract of the ume root by the ume shoot water vapor distillation solution). 0.01 to 30 g / 100 g, preferably 0.05 to 20 g / 100 g, more preferably 0.1 to 10 g / 100 g, and the amount of ume extract obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present invention.
  • the amount corresponding to the ume steam distillate (preferably ume fruit steam distillate) obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present invention is 5 to 70 g / 100 g, preferably 10 to 60 g / 100 g, more preferably 20 to 50 g / 100 g can be blended.
  • each extract may be blended alone in the above amount, or may be blended in combination in the above amount. It is more preferable to combine them.
  • the ume extract is used as an amount corresponding to the ume steam distillate (preferably the ume fruit steam distillate) obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present invention. 20 to 80 g / 100 g, preferably 30 to 70 g / 100 g, more preferably 40 to 60 g / 100 g.
  • the ume extract corresponds to the ume extract obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present invention (preferably, the extract of the ume root by the ume shoots steamed distillate). 0.1 to 20 g / 100 g, preferably 0.5 to 10 g / 100 g, more preferably 1 to 5 g / 100 g, and the dried ume extract obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present invention.
  • an amount corresponding to powder preferably dry powder of extract of ume root with 95% ethanol
  • 0.01 to 250 mg / 100 g preferably 0.05 to 10 mg / 100 g, more preferably 0.2 to 5 mg / 100 g Can do.
  • each extract may be blended alone in the above amount, or may be blended in combination in the above amount. It is more preferable to combine them.
  • the composition of the present invention corresponds to a ume extract obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present invention (preferably, an extract of ume roots using a ume sap branch steam distillation solution).
  • the amount can be 0.05 to 10 g / 100 g, preferably 0.1 to 5 g / 100 g, more preferably 0.5 to 2 g / 100 g, and the dried ume extract obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present invention.
  • As an amount corresponding to powder preferably, dried powder of ume root extract with 95% ethanol
  • 0.01 to 250 mg / 100 g, preferably 0.05 to 5 mg / 100 g, more preferably 0.3 to 1 mg / 100 g Can do.
  • each extract may be blended alone in the above amount, or may be blended in combination in the above amount. It is more preferable to combine them.
  • composition of the present invention is in the form of a lip base
  • dried powder of ume extract obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present invention preferably dried powder of ume root extract with 95% ethanol
  • an extract preferably, an extract of ume roots with a ume shoot steamed distillate and / or a purified water extract of ume roots
  • each extract may be blended alone in the above amount, or may be blended in combination in the above amount. It is more preferable to combine them.
  • the ume extract is converted into a ume extract obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present invention (preferably, an extract of ume roots using a ume sap branch steam distillation solution).
  • a corresponding amount 0.01 to 30 g / 100 g, preferably 0.5 to 20 g / 100 g, more preferably 1 to 10 g / 100 g can be blended, and the ume extract obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present invention.
  • 0.01 to the dry powder preferably, dried powder of ume root extract with 95% ethanol
  • 0.01 to 250 mg / 100 g preferably 0.05 to 10 mg / 100 g, more preferably 0.1 to 5 mg / 100 g can do.
  • each extract may be blended alone in the above amount, or may be blended in combination in the above amount. It is more preferable to combine them.
  • composition of the present invention is in the form of a cosmetic
  • an effective amount of an emulsifier is included to solubilize the ume extract.
  • emulsifiers are various effects of ume extract, namely elastase activity inhibition effect, gelatinase activity inhibition effect, collagenase activity inhibition effect, hyaluronidase activity inhibition effect, fibroblast activation (activity, effect), melanin production inhibition effect, Maillard
  • the reaction suppressing effect and the antioxidant effect can be synergistically enhanced.
  • emulsifiers that can be used in the present invention are lecithin, lecithin derivatives, lysophospholipid, polymer emulsifier, propylene glycol fatty acid ester, glycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid ester, poly Oxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbit fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene lanolin, lanolin alcohol, beeswax derivative, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene sterol, hydrogenated sterol, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene poly Oxypropylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphate / phosphate, polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester It is an ether.
  • lecithin and lecithin derivatives include fractionated lecithin, enzymatically degraded lecithin (including lysolecithin), and hydrogenated lecithin (sometimes referred to as “hydrogenated lecithin”). More specific preferable examples of the emulsifier that can be used in the present invention are expressed as lysolecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated lysolecithin (lysophospholipid, hydrogenated phospholipid, hydrogenated lysophospholipid) derived from soybean or egg yolk. There is also.). Lecithin and lecithin derivatives can also be used in combination.
  • emulsifiers include lysolecithin, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated lecithin, soybean sterol, or any combination thereof in an amount effective to solubilize the ume extract in the composition of the present invention.
  • the blending amount is 0.015 g / 100 g or more, preferably 0.025 g / 100 g, more preferably 0.05 g / 100 g. In any case, it is preferably 5 g / 100 g or less, more preferably 2.5 g / 100 g or less.
  • the upper limit value may be determined in consideration of viscosity.
  • the composition of the present invention may contain 0.001 to 10 g / 100 g, preferably 0.002 to 5 g / 100 g, more preferably 0.002 to 3 g / 100 g.
  • composition of the present invention is in the form of a cosmetic, in a particularly preferred embodiment, it is used immediately after washing the face.
  • various effects of ume extract namely elastase activity inhibitory effect, gelatinase activity inhibitory effect, collagenase activity inhibitory effect, hyaluronidase activity inhibitory effect, fibroblast activation (activity, effect), melanin production inhibitory effect, Maillard reaction inhibitory effect and antioxidant effect can be synergistically enhanced.
  • composition of the present invention is in the form of a cosmetic
  • its production method is not particularly limited as long as the effect of the ume extract is not significantly reduced, and can be appropriately produced by those skilled in the art.
  • the production process includes a high-pressure emulsification treatment process.
  • the emulsified particles can be made fine and an emulsified state with high stability can be created.
  • a ume extract that is relatively difficult to disperse can be sufficiently dispersed and stabilized, facilitating blending.
  • the emulsified particles become finer, have better skin fit, increase permeability, and various effects of ume extract: elastase activity inhibitory effect, gelatinase activity inhibitory effect, collagenase activity inhibitory effect, hyaluronidase activity inhibitory effect, fiber
  • elastase activity inhibitory effect gelatinase activity inhibitory effect
  • collagenase activity inhibitory effect hyaluronidase activity inhibitory effect
  • fiber A cosmetic product that synergistically enhances blast cell activation (activity, effect), melanin production inhibitory effect, Maillard reaction inhibitory effect, and antioxidant effect can be produced.
  • the production process includes a deodorization process separately from or in combination with the high-pressure emulsification treatment process.
  • extracts from various parts of ume may have a characteristic odor derived from the raw material, and when a cosmetic composition is constituted, even in a relatively small amount, It may not be negligible to apply to the face. This tendency was particularly remarkable when roots were used.
  • the means for deodorization is not particularly limited as long as the effect of the ume extract is not significantly reduced, and an existing technique used for the same purpose can be applied.
  • One typical method is to use activated carbon.
  • the ume extract is obtained from the ume extract obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present invention (preferably, an extract of ume root using a ume shoot with a steamed ume branch).
  • an amount corresponding to the above 0.01 to 30 g / 100 g, preferably 0.5 to 20 g / 100 g, more preferably 1 to 10 g / 100 g can be blended, and the ume extract obtained by the method described in Example 1 of the present invention
  • the amount corresponding to the dry powder of the product preferably, the dried powder of the extract of ume root with 95% ethanol
  • each extract may be blended alone in the above amount, or may be blended in combination in the above amount. It is more preferable to combine them.
  • Example 1 Preparation of ume part extract
  • the ume part extract obtained as needed was powdered.
  • the extract with purified water was freeze-dried and powdered. After removing the solvent from the ethanol extract once using an evaporator, an appropriate amount of purified water was added, freeze-dried, and powdered.
  • the steam distilled liquid of a ume fruit or a young branch was prepared as follows.
  • Ume fruit steam distillate Water vapor generated by boiling purified water was applied to 5 to 50% (w / w) of ume fruits, and the water vapor containing aroma components obtained was cooled.
  • Ume Wakae Steam Distillate Water vapor generated by boiling purified water was applied to 0.01 to 10% (w / w) of ume shoots to cool the water vapor containing aroma components obtained.
  • Test method 50 ⁇ L of an evaluation sample prepared using purified water on a 96 well plate, 35 ⁇ L of 0.1 M Tris-HCl buffer, 100 ⁇ L of 1 mM Suc-Ala-Ala-Ala-PNA, 0.25 U / mL (Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd., 15 ⁇ L (derived from porcine pancreas) was added, and after reacting at 37 ° C. for 30 minutes, absorbance at 405 nm was measured with a microplate reader. The inhibition rate was calculated using the following formula with purified water as a control.
  • Test sample 25 (L, 2 mM hypoxanthine 25 (L, 2 mM EDTA 25 (L, 0.5 mM NBT 25 (L, 0.1 M carbonate buffer 100 (L , 30 mU / mL xanthine oxidase (XOD) 50 (L was added, reacted at 37 ° C. for 30 minutes, and the absorbance at 570 nm was measured with a microplate reader. The elimination rate was calculated using the following formula with purified water as a control. .
  • Hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2 ) erasing effect test 25 ⁇ L of an evaluation sample prepared with purified water was added to a 96-well plate, and then 10 ⁇ L of 0.15 mM H 2 O 2 and 25 ⁇ l of 0.1 M PIPES buffer (pH 7.0) were added and reacted at 37 ° C. for 20 minutes. . Immediately after the reaction, 172 ⁇ M DA-67 (180 ⁇ L) was added, ethanol (10 ⁇ L) was added, a color reaction was performed at 37 ° C. for 5 minutes, and the absorbance at 630 nm was measured with a microplate reader. The elimination rate was calculated using the following formula with purified water as a control.
  • Hyaluronidase activity inhibitory effect test Evaluation sample prepared using purified water in a 96-well plate 12 ⁇ L, 400U / mL hyaluronidase (SIGMA, cow testis) 12 ⁇ L was mixed and incubated at 40 ° C for 20 minutes, 0.1mg / mL Compound 48/80 12 ⁇ L And react at 40 ° C for 20 minutes, add 12 mg of 1 mg / mL potassium hyaluronate, and react at 40 ° C for 40 minutes.
  • the hyaluronidase activity inhibitory effect is calculated using the following formula.
  • Collagenase activity inhibitory effect test 60 ⁇ L of an evaluation sample prepared using purified water, 480 ⁇ L of 0.5 M pz-peptide adjusted with 0.1 M Tris-HCl buffer (pH 7.1, containing 20 mM CaCl 2 ), and 50 CDU / mL collagenase adjusted with purified water ( 60 ⁇ L (from SIGMA, Clostridium histolyticum ) was added and reacted at 37 ° C. for 30 minutes. Immediately after the reaction, 1.2 mL of 2.5 mM citric acid was added, and then extracted with 5.0 mL of ethyl acetate. After centrifugation, the absorbance at 320 nm of the ethyl acetate layer was measured. Using purified water as a control, the inhibition rate of collagenase activity was calculated using the following formula.
  • Fibroblast activation effect test Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) were seeded in a 96-well microplate at a density of 7 ⁇ 10 4 cells / cm 2 .
  • NHDF normal human dermal fibroblasts
  • an ⁇ -MEM medium containing 5% fetal bovine serum (FBS) was used and cultured in a CO 2 incubator (5% CO 2 , 37 ° C.) for 24 hours. After 24 hours, each sample was replaced with ⁇ -MEM medium containing 5% FBS, and cultured for 72 hours.
  • FBS fetal bovine serum
  • MTT 3- (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl) -2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide
  • DMEM medium supplemented with 1.0 mg / ml and cultured for 4 hours.
  • the produced formazan was extracted with acidic isopropanol, and the absorbance at wavelengths of 570 nm and 630 nm was measured with a plate reader. From the difference between the two measured values (absorbance at 570 nm ⁇ absorbance at 630 nm), the cell activation effect was evaluated using the following formula with the value in the case of addition of purified water as a control as the activation rate of 100%.
  • B16 melanoma cell melanin production inhibitory effect test Prepare B16 melanoma cells in DMEM medium containing 10% fetal bovine serum (FBS) at 12 ⁇ 10 4 cells / mL, seed the cell suspension at 0.5 mL / well in a 24-well plate (2 cm 2 ), 37 ° C, Incubate under 5% CO 2 . After 24 hours, the medium is replaced with 0.1 mg / mL theophylline and DMEM medium (10% FBS) supplemented with the evaluation sample.
  • FBS fetal bovine serum
  • Gelatinase activity inhibitory effect test A 10% SDS polyacrylamide gel containing 0.2% gelatin is prepared without a comb by adding a pre-heated gelatin solution, and the MMP marker (manufactured by Primary Cell Co., Ltd.) is 1/4 and 1.5M Tris-HCl buffer (pH 8.8). Apply the sample diluted in step) and perform electrophoresis. After electrophoresis, wash repeatedly with 2.5% TritonX-100. Cut into strips with a length of 2 cm and a width of 0.4 cm from a position 5 mm below the boundary between the separation gel and the concentrated gel.
  • Hyaluronidase activity inhibitory effect The lyophilized product obtained by the method of Example 1 was redissolved in each solvent and used for the test. A similar test was conducted for sodium cromoglycate. The test results are shown in the table below.
  • Example 3 activated carbon treatment
  • Example 2 the elastase activity inhibitory effect test was carried out by the method described in Example 2 for the product after the activated carbon treatment, and compared with the result for the product before the treatment.
  • EtOH extraction refers to extraction with 95% ethanol (the same applies to the following examples unless otherwise noted).
  • the odor derived from the material was reduced, and the activity was not significantly reduced, making it more suitable as a raw material to be added to cosmetics.
  • the aqueous phase A having the composition shown in the following table was heated and dissolved at 85 ° C., B was added, and the mixture was stirred.
  • the oil phase C was heated and dissolved at 100 ° C.
  • the oil phase C was added to the aqueous phase A and B mixture, heated to 85 ° C., and emulsified with an emulsifier. Thereafter, it was cooled to 35 ° C. and subjected to high-pressure treatment (220 MPa ⁇ 5 pass) to obtain a pre-treatment liquid for serum.
  • aqueous phase A shown in the table below was heated and dissolved at 85 ° C. and cooled to 37 ° C.
  • Each component of B was added to aqueous phase A, and C (the essence pretreatment product obtained in the above step (a)) was added to the mixture of aqueous phases A and B, and dispersed uniformly to obtain a essence. .
  • aqueous phase A having the composition shown in the table below was dissolved by heating to 75 ° C., cooled to 35 ° C., added with aqueous phase B, and stirred. Finally, C was added in small portions and stirred to obtain a comparative cosmetic liquid.
  • the sensory test of the manufactured cosmetics was conducted by 20 panelists (general women in their 20s and 60s).
  • the cosmetic liquids of the examples were superior in all items as compared to the comparative examples.
  • Example 5 Preparation of cosmetics, etc.
  • Manufacture of lotion 1 In the following table, heat to 75 ° C and dissolve with stirring. After cooling to 35 ° C., a lotion was obtained.
  • aqueous phase A having the composition shown in the table below is heated to 85 ° C. and dissolved.
  • Add B the pre-treatment for the lotion / milky emulsion obtained in step (a) of lotion 2 and stir. Heat and dissolve only C. C is added to the mixture of A and B, heated to 85 ° C. and emulsified with an emulsifier. The emulsion was cooled to 35 ° C. to obtain an emulsion.
  • Oil phase A having the composition shown in the following table is heated to 100 ° C. and dissolved.
  • Test on blending amount of emulsifier [Test 1] Test method: Add ume extract (dry powder of 95% ethanol extract of Shirakaga ume root) to purified water at a concentration of 0.1 mg / mL (approximately the same as 0.1 mg / g), and add emulsifier (PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil). The test samples were mixed at the concentrations shown in the table below. In addition, the sample was heated at 80 ° C. to 95 ° C., then mixed by vortexing for 1 minute or longer, and photographed to confirm the presence or absence of precipitation.
  • ume extract dry powder of 95% ethanol extract of Shirakaga ume root
  • emulsifier PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil
  • Test method A ume extract (dry powder of Shirakaga ume root 95% ethanol extract) was dissolved in purified water at a concentration of 0.25 wt%, and an emulsifier was mixed at the following concentration to prepare a test sample.
  • an emulsifier four kinds of lysolecithin, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated lecithin, and soybean sterol were blended at the same ratio as in Example [Table 9] of the present specification.
  • the sample was heated at 80 ° C. to 95 ° C., then mixed by vortexing for 1 minute or more and cooled to room temperature. The cooled sample was centrifuged at 500 rpm for 2 minutes and photographed to confirm the presence or absence of precipitation.

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition destinée à être appliquée de manière externe sur la peau et contenant une quantité efficace d'un extrait d'au moins une partie de prunier (Prunus mume) choisie parmi la racine, les branches et l'écorce et un solvant aqueux. Ladite composition est particulièrement utile pour inhiber l'activité d'une élastase et/ou d'une hyaluronidase. L'extrait de prunier peut être utilisé à des fins anti-vieillissement et/ou de blanchiment de la peau.
PCT/JP2011/059358 2010-04-15 2011-04-15 Composition cosmétique contenant de l'extrait de prunier WO2011129428A1 (fr)

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