Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
  • A45D7/06—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair combined chemical and thermal
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D2/00—Hair-curling or hair-waving appliances ; Appliances for hair dressing treatment not otherwise provided for
  • A45D2/001—Hair straightening appliances
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
  • A61K8/362—Polycarboxylic acids
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
  • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/24—Thermal properties

Definitions

• the subject of the invention is a process for straightening keratinous fibers with a heating means and at least one alpha-hydroxy- and / or ketoacid derivative.
• the straightening process according to the invention is carried out without using a reducing agent or lanthionization agent. It does not include any reduction steps or lanthionization.
• keratinous fibers is meant, according to the invention, fibers of human or animal origin such as hair, hair, eyelashes, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. Although the invention is not limited to particular keratinous fibers, it will nonetheless be more particularly referred to the hair.
• straightening encompasses, according to the invention, straightening, smoothing or decreping of Caucasian or African hair.
• straightening encompasses, according to the invention, straightening, smoothing or straightening Caucasian or African hair.
• heating means means any means for heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 110 ° C such as heat irons, for example flat or round irons, microwave generators, sources infra-red radiation.
• Two techniques are used to obtain a permanent deformation of the hair. They are based on a disruption of the covalent disulfide bonds present in keratin (cystine): the first is, in a first step to achieve this opening disulfide bonds using a composition containing a reducing agent, then after having, preferably, rinsed the hair, to reconstitute in a second time said disulfide bonds by applying to the hair previously tensioned by hair curlers or others or shaped or smoothed by other means, an oxidizing composition also called fixer, in order to give the hair the desired shape.
• This technique allows indifferently to achieve either the waving of the hair, or their straightening or curing or smoothing.
• the second is to perform an operation called lanthionization, using a composition containing a base belonging to the family of hydroxides. It leads to replace disulfide bonds (-CH2-SS-CH2-) by lanthionine bonds (-CH2-S-CH2-).
• This lanthionization operation involves two consecutive chemical reactions:
• the first reaction consists of a beta-elimination on cystine caused by a hydroxide ion, leading to the breakdown of this bond and the formation of dehydroalanine.
• the second reaction is a reaction of dehydroalanine with a thiol group, since the double bond of the dehydroalanine formed is a reactive double bond and can react with the thiol group of the cysteine residue which has been released to form a new bond called a bridge or bond or lanthionine residue.
• this lanthionization technique does not require a fixation step, since the formation of lanthionine bridges is irreversible. It is therefore carried out in one step and allows indifferently to achieve either the waving of the hair, or their straightening or their scrubbing or smoothing them. However, it is mainly used for hair removal naturally frizzy hair.
• the reducing compositions generally used for the first step of a permanent or def ⁇ sage operation contain, as reducing agent, thiols or sulphites or bisulphites. These agents are generally employed in essentially aqueous medium at concentrations of between 0.5 and 1 M to obtain good opening of the disulfide bonds.
• thiols those commonly used are thioglycolic acid, cysteamine, glycerol monothioglycolate, thiolactic acid and cysteine.
• Thioglycolic acid is particularly effective in reducing the disulfide bonds of keratin at alkaline pH, especially in the form of ammonium thioglycolate, and is the most widely used product in permanent
• Sulphites or bisulphites are mainly used for straightening. They have disadvantages similar to thiols with less efficiency.
• Thiols and sulphites have the further disadvantage of having poor stability in aqueous solution.
• the durability of the deformation effects obtained with thiols and sulphites by reduction of the disulphides and then fixation is considered to be much lower than that which can be obtained by the lanthionization technique.
• the compositions generally used for lanthionization contain as a base a hydroxide such as sodium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and lithium hydroxide.
• a hydroxide such as sodium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and lithium hydroxide.
• These lanthionization agents which make it possible to open the disulfide bonds by a beta-elimination mechanism, are generally employed in water-oil emulsions at concentrations of between 0.4 and 0.6M, leaving them generally to act for 10 to 15 minutes. at room temperature.
• Sodium hydroxide remains the most used agent.
• the hydroxide Guanidinium is now the preferred compound for many compositions.
• These two hydroxides, sodium and guanidinium are the two main agents used for straightening or decribing naturally frizzy hair. They have several advantages over ammonium thioglycolate and sulphites, in particular an absence of an unpleasant odor, the fact that only one processing step is required (shorter
• the causticity of the hydroxides also affects the state of the hair by rendering it on the one hand rough to the touch and on the other hand much more fragile, this fragility being able to go up to the crumbling or even the rupture or even the dissolution of the hair if the treatment is prolonged.
• the hydroxides also cause discolourations of the natural color of the hair.
• nuclearity The main relaxation formulas called "no-lye" implement guanidinium hydroxide.
• Guanidinium hydroxide being unstable, it is generated extemporaneously by the mixture of guanidine carbonate and a source of very poorly soluble hydroxide such as calcium hydroxide. The reaction between these two compounds leads to the formation of guanidinium hydroxide and calcium carbonate which precipitates in the composition. The presence of this precipitate makes the final rinsing of the hair much more difficult and leaves on the hair and scalp mineral particles that give it a rough feel and an unsightly appearance resembling dandruff.
• hydroxides are known to be good hydrolysis agents of the amide functions (cf for example March's Advanced Organic Chemistry, 5th ed., Wiley
• thioglycolic acid in the form of ammonium thioglycolate remains both the reference compound and the most widely used in cosmetic formulations, as well as formatting only for smoothing.
• CA 1315204 which describes a composition containing ammonium thioglycolate (5.5-11.5%) and urea or monoalkylurea (1-
• a step of applying to the keratinous fibers a straightening composition containing at least one alpha-hydroxy- and / or ketoacid derivative, the pH of this composition being less than or equal to 9,
• the subject of the invention is a process for straightening keratin fibers, comprising:
• the temperature is raised with the aid of the heating means at a temperature of between 120 ° C. and 22 ° C., more advantageously between 140 ° C. and 220 ° C.
• said composition is applied to moist keratinous fibers.
• a step intended to remove the excess of the composition may also advantageously be inserted between the step of applying the composition and the step of raising the temperature, a step intended to remove the excess of the composition, for example by means of a towel.
• R1 H, OH, NH2, CH2-COOH, linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl
• R2 may also represent the radical (CHOH) 2CH2OH or (CHOH) 3CH2OH
• R5 COOH, linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl optionally substituted with an OH or COOH or Br radical; phenyl or benzyl optionally substituted with an OH or COOH radical; or an indolyl radical or
• the molar concentration of use is advantageously between 2 and 8M, more advantageously between 4 and 8M.
• compositions according to the invention are either in the form of an aqueous solution or in the form of a thickened cream so as to keep the hair as stiff as possible. These creams are made in the form of "heavy" emulsions. These compositions contain at least one alpha-hydroxy acid derivative of formula (I) and / or at least one ketoacid derivative of formula (II) and / or their mixtures in all proportions.
• compositions of the invention contain the alpha-hydroxy- and / or ketoacid derivative as the sole straightening active agent.
• composition used according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional cosmetic active agents.
• the one or more additional cosmetic active agents represent from 0.01 to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 10%, by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
• the composition applied to the keratinous fibers is applied at a level of from 0.05 to 20 g, preferably from 0.1 to 10 g of composition per gram of dry keratin fiber.
• said composition After application of the composition, and before raising the temperature of the keratinous fibers by means of a heating means, said composition may be left, generally for 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes.
• the method according to the invention comprises, after the step of applying the composition, a step of raising the temperature of the keratinous fibers, by means of a heating means, at a temperature of between 1 10 ° C. and 250 ° C.
• an iron is used as heating means.
• the term "iron” means a device for heating the keratinous fibers bringing said fibers into contact with the heating device.
• the end of the iron coming into contact with the hair generally has two flat surfaces. These two flat surfaces may be metallic. They can be smooth or notched.
• the iron can be applied by successive separate keys of a few seconds, or by progressive displacement or sliding along the wicks.
• the application of iron in the process according to the invention is in continuous movement from root to tip, in one or more passages.
• the method according to the invention may also comprise an additional step of partial pre-drying of the keratinous fibers before the step of raising the temperature, so as to avoid large releases of vapors which could burn the hands of the hairdresser and the scalp of the person.
• This pre-drying step can be done for example by means of a dryer, a helmet, or even by free drying.
• the invention also relates to a kit comprising at least: a heating means providing a temperature of between 1 and 250 ° C.,
• the straightening composition contains at least alpha-hydroxy- and / or keto acid derivative of formula (I) and / or (II) and / or their mixtures in all proportions as defined above.
• the invention may be better understood with the aid of the nonlimiting examples which follow and which constitute preferred embodiments of the compositions according to the invention.
• EXAMPLE 2 A simplified straightening composition containing pyruvic acid, at a concentration of 8M in water, is produced as a straightening agent. This composition is applied to naturally curly African hair for 15 minutes at a temperature of 40 ° C. and then the hair is quickly wiped with a towel.
• the hair is then wick stripped with a flat iron heated at 180 ° C for 10 to 15 seconds.
• the hair is straightened effectively and soft to the touch.
• EXAMPLE 3 A simplified straightening composition containing pyruvic acid, at a concentration of 4M in water, is made as a straightening agent. This composition is applied to naturally curly African hair for 25 minutes at a temperature of 40 ° C. and then the hair is rapidly wiped with a towel.
• a simplified straightening composition containing L-lactic acid, at a concentration of 4M in water, is produced as deflashing agent. This composition is applied to naturally curly African hair for 25 minutes at a temperature of 40 ° C. and then the hair is rapidly wiped with a towel.
• the hair is then streaked with a lock of hair using a flat iron heated at 180 ° C. for 10 to 15 seconds.
• the hair is straightened effectively and soft to the touch.

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Emergency Medicine (AREA)
• Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
• Thermal Sciences (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)

Priority Applications (12)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Related Child Applications (3)

Publications (1)

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Family Applications (1)

Country Status (7)

Cited By (37)

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Citations (6)

Family Cites Families (39)

• 2006
  • 2006-05-24 FR FR0651909A patent/FR2901471B1/fr active Active
• 2007
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  • 2007-05-23 EP EP07765948.0A patent/EP2029237B1/fr active Active
  • 2007-05-23 ES ES16166906T patent/ES2757380T3/es active Active
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